How to make the gradation of patterns manually. Graduation of patterns for the main parts of a female (male) shoulder garment with set-in sleeves by size and height
In professional language, the method that I will talk about is called proportional grading using pre-calculated increments. I will not litter the article with design terms, focusing on the fact that the material is read by tailors and sewing lovers of different levels of training, and I will try to explain everything as clearly as possible. But, nevertheless, the topic of pattern reproduction is quite complicated, so please be patient.
Schemes for changing patterns (patterns) by size
To begin with, you need to understand that the change in the pattern from size to size occurs while maintaining the interdimensional spacing. In simple terms, this means that each size differs from the previous one by exactly 2 cm (according to Cg - the half-girth of the chest, since the pattern is usually built on half of the figure) 42 p, 44 p, 46 p ... and this interval when increasing or decreasing the patterns must be kept along the chest line. It is also necessary to take into account and maintain the intervals along the waist line (up to 52 p. Is - 2 cm, then 3 cm) and along the line of the hips (up to 54 p. - 2 cm, from 56 p. - 2.5 cm). This rule is for those who change the pattern of the model within the standard sizes.
On the details of the pattern, 2 base lines are set, which remain motionless and make changes relative to them.
Back
- chest line
- line tangent to the armhole
Shelf
- chest line
- line tangent to the armhole
Sleeve
- sleeve width line under the armhole
- the line connecting the upper and lower ends of the front roll.
Pants , front and back halves
- seat line
- fold line
Skirt
- thigh line
- line of the middle of the front or rear panels
Now, having established the main lines, you can proceed directly to changing the patterns (details of the patterns). To do this, you need to arm yourself with the schemes below, according to which, and make adjustments. Let me remind you that changing the pattern by more than 2-3 sizes leads to an error and changes the final result not for the better. In order to reduce the pattern by size, you need to use the values of the increments from the schemes for each point changing the position with a minus sign, i.e. in reverse order.
Adjusting patterns from size to size
The first scheme of increasing (decreasing) the base pattern-base of the skirt from size to size for typical sizes.
Increase (decrease) the base pattern-base.
It is easy to check whether the spacing between measurements has been preserved by adding the values of the increments on the section of the chest line. 0.5 + 0.3 + 0.3 + 0.9 = 2cm.
Increase (decrease) the sleeve pattern.
Increase (decrease) the pattern of trousers.
If you need to adjust the pattern according to your height, use the diagrams below.
Adjusting patterns for height
I made all the schemes on the basis of the Gradation of patterns in the EMKO CMEA system. WOMEN'S CLOTHING. They are designed only for basic basic patterns, and this is understandable, because it is impossible to make patterns for all existing styles of clothing. The principle remains simple. Vfirstly, the difference between sizes, heights,secondly, the increments are distributed in proportion to the sections of the structure.
Still such a moment, in general, large values of the increments are attributed to those parts of the pattern where freedom for movement is needed (armhole, back in the area of the armhole, etc.)
If some of you are interested in delving into the study of the issue of reproduction (change) of patterns, then you can do this by researching the theme of the Unified Method for Designing Clothes CMEA (EMCO CMEA). I, on the other hand, tried to describe this method in a concise, simplified form, making allowances for the fact that our readers make clothes for an individual figure, and have the opportunity to take measurements and compare them with standard sizes, thereby checking the conformity of the pattern.
You cannot compare the dimensions taken from the figure with the dimensions on the corresponding parts of the pattern, because when developing the model, an increase in the freedom of fit is taken into account. Therefore, if you do compare your measurements with a pattern, keep this in mind!
In general, if you approach the issue of adjusting the pattern, reducing (increasing) its size, you need to think logically. If, for example, your size at the top of the figure corresponds to a typical size 46, and the bottom is 48 or even 50, so as not to buy two patterns and not spliced them at the waist (this is also possible, as an option), you can purchase one pattern of size 46 and using the diagrams from this lesson, change only the lower part of it.
Adjusting the dress pattern, taking into account the features of the figure
We figured out the change in the size of the pattern. Now, I want to talk a little about something else, when the figure is not standard.
In this case, of course, it is better to make individual patterns for you. For example, model them based on our basic patterns, built to your measurements. You can build them using our basic pattern generators. And to model - focusing on our articles on modeling.
However, what if you still want to adjust the finished pattern?
In preparation for the article, I visited many sites and forums on the topic of adjusting patterns, and a flurry of questions to the authors made me understand that the topic is very relevant. It is not possible to answer everything, but if in this lesson I can answer, at least, the main ones, I will be glad.
So, you came to our site and you liked the model like - this
you wanted to purchase a pattern, but your figure does not fit into the framework of the dimensional typology, because it’s true - each of us is unique! What to do? Really refuse new things? Let's try to solve the problem.
We will consider a specific example. On the page with dress description click on the Show Dimensional Grid button, where we select the size and height closest to your figure. (I will choose 44 p. Height 164, my figure is between 44 and 46 p. In parameters.) A plate with dimensional characteristics corresponding to this size falls out. For convenience, you can rewrite on a sheet of paper in two columns, and in the third, opposite each typical value, write your measurements.
We also need to know the amount of fit for a given silhouette. The values are in the table (but they can also be calculated - to measure sections of the structure and subtract from the resulting values of the size of the dimensional characteristics).
Where Pg - an increase to the half-girth of the chest, Pt - to the half-girth of the waist, Pb - hips, Pshs - to the width of the back, Pshg - to the width of the shelf, Pdts - an increase to the length of the back, Pspr - to the freedom of the armhole, Pshgor - to the neck.
We choose the values from the plate - dress, tight fit. Since our dress model is quite close to the figure. Let's write down on a piece of paper with our measurements - the main ones. Here's what happened:
We proceed to the most interesting thing - in the printed patterns of the selected model, we will measure the main sections of the structure and, taking into account the increments mentioned above, we will compare them with our measurements, plus increments.
We have insufficient volume:
- in the chest area - 1 cm
- at the waist 4.2 cm
- on the hips 2 cm
- along the length of the front 0.6 cm
- in the circumference of the shoulder (arm) 2.6 cm
Now let's proceed directly to adjusting the pattern.
Bodice. It is necessary to add 0.5 cm to the side seams, to compensate for the missing size in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe chest and partly the waist. And also, add 0.6 cm in the front length. Check the length of the side sections of the back and the shelf, they should be equal. After the changes made, the length of the armhole has increased, this is to our advantage, tk. by the standards, the girth of the arm is larger than the typical one and we will have to change the width of the sleeve, and therefore the armhole.
Let's continue with the changes. Waistline.
The previous actions gave us a waist increase in 1 cm ... It is necessary to increase it by another 3.2 cm ... I propose to reduce the solutions of the waist darts and add 0.6 cm to the side, but only in the waist area.
Remains bottom of the dress... We increase the waist on the skirt pattern by adding 1.1 cm to the side seams and reducing the solutions of the darts (folds). At the same time, we increase the pattern along the thighs by 1 cm at each side seam. It remains only to check the conjugation of the darts on the bodice and skirt, so that when they are combined they fall exactly to each other, if you need to correct.
So we changed the pattern of the dress to fit our figure, I hope that my advice will be useful to you. Of course, it is impossible to talk about all the nuances in one lesson. But, I think, if you have any questions regarding adjusting the patterns regarding your figures, we will make another publication in which I will tell you how to solve them. So, I'm catching questions! Thank you for using our site.
Is it possible to make a graduation in the Valentina program? This question has been asked more and more often lately. The answer to the question is - Yes you can! But before I show you how to do this, let's clarify a little what gradation is and what possibilities it opens up to us.
What is Graduation?
Pattern gradation is the process of designing a set of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on the patterns of a medium-sized product.
Graduation is also called the engineering and design process of obtaining a number of similar images of contour or structural lines of clothing parts to specified sizes by increasing or decreasing clothing parts of the original size in accordance with the established rules.
In simple terms, you need to create a pattern for an average size and height and then build a set of similar patterns for other sizes based on it.
What opportunities does gradation give us?
Fast, automatic change and reproduction of patterns in the program opens up a number of possibilities for us:
- Make patterns to order
- Create patterns for sale
- Create patterns for participants in master classes, marathons and competitions
- Sewing products for sale
Surely these are not all the possibilities of applying gradation. If you know more, write in the comments!
How to make a gradation in "Valentine"?
We can build a drawing according to anyone's measurements. For example, I took measurements for five standard sizes: 44, 46, 48, 50, 52.
Then we create copies of this file with measurements and interrupt (change) the measurements in the copies of the files to measurements of 46th, 48th, 50th and 52nd sizes. Thus, you get 5 sets of measurements.
And now, applying each of the files with measurements to this drawing, we can change the drawing to each of the standard dimensions in a matter of seconds. Create a layout and save a file with a pattern for each size. The pattern is saved in PDF format. It can be printed on a home printer.
In a short period of time, we can multiply the drawing into a number of sizes.
What are the advantages of this gradation - the patterns do not need to be copied onto tracing paper. The pattern for each size is obtained on a separate file. We just have to print it, glue it and cut it out.
We can use this set of standard measurements for different drawings. For those that we already have or that we will create in the future. That is, we only need to work hard and create this kit once. And we can use it many times, as well as any parametric pattern in the program "Valentina".
If you have any questions, write in the comments. I will be glad to help you.
© Olga Marizina
Of course, few people can boast that they know the meaning of all the words in the language. In addition, many of them can have several meanings. In order to understand this, there are dictionaries. By the way, they help to broaden the horizons.
In this article we will try to consider the meaning of the word "gradation". As you know, it is used in various fields, most often found in literature, art, commodity science and logistics.
The origin of the term and its use in fiction
Gradation is an artistic means for enhancing the imagery of speech, a kind of stylistic device built on a gradual increase in the significance of an action or statement.
The word has Latin roots and can be translated as "gradual increase." The single root word is "degree", which means a change of one degree, that is, an increase or decrease.
Gradation is often found in poetry: speech becomes more expressive and expressive. It is expressed in repetitions, which allows the reader to focus on significant actions for the story.
The increasing gradation is called the climax, and the decreasing one is called the anticlimax. Fade-in is most commonly found in poetry. A striking example is the works of A.S. Pushkin. A decreasing gradation can be found in love lyrics: it makes it possible to demonstrate the full depth of the lyrical hero's experiences. With the help of this stylistic technique, the work becomes expressive and expressive.
In art
In the realm of art, gradation is a smooth transition from darker hues to less saturated ones. With the help of this technique, the paintings acquire depth and richness. Graduation can be done not only on black and white shades, but also on other colors. It is not at all necessary to use tones of the same spectrum. An example of such a gradation is a rainbow.
Transitions between shades can be either pronounced or smoother. Applying gradation allows you to use a wide variety of colors to add volume and vibrance to your artwork.
Significance in trade and logistics
Graduation is an important criterion in the field of commodity science and logistics. It is intended to indicate the quality characteristics of the product. Determination of product gradation is a discrepancy of a product according to certain parameters.
Products are of the first, second and third grade.
The first is products that fully comply with all requirements and quality standards.
The second is the products that need to be sold faster. Therefore, they are sold at a discount.
The third degree is goods that are disposed of in accordance with all requirements.
Due to the large number of meanings, it is not at all difficult to find synonyms for the word "gradation". This is a figure of speech or sequence, alternation, gradation.
The correct use of gradation as a stylistic device allows you to make the work more interesting and expressive. And the correct use of the word in speech will allow you to demonstrate literacy and erudition, a wealth of vocabulary.
Graduation is not just an artistic technique, it is a way of influencing people by drawing attention to important things.
Graduation of patterns for details of clothing Lecture
Plan 1. Basic requirements for the gradation of patterns. Schemes for the gradation of patterns for clothing details in terms of heights and sizes. 2. Development of typical schemes for the gradation of parts. Development of grading schemes for atypical structures. 3. Drawing up a sheet of technical measurements.
Gradation of patterns Gradation of patterns is the process of designing a set of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on the patterns of a medium-sized product.Graduation is also called the engineering and design process of obtaining a number of similar images of contour or structural lines of clothing parts to set sizes by increasing or decreasing the garment parts of the original size according to the established rules
Factors affecting the process of converting part patterns during gradation: - variability of dimensional features; - the structure of the design formulas; -a method for calculating the values of displacement of structural points relative to the original axes; - the nature of the sweep of the three-dimensional shape of figures of various sizes; -the cut and appearance of products; -properties of materials.
Analysis of the regularity of the variability of the dimensional characteristics of typical figures Changing the size of the patterns of clothing parts is associated with a change in the dimensional characteristics of the figures of a typical physique. Therefore, the rules for determining the size of clothing parts during gradation should be based on the patterns of change in the subordinate dimensional characteristics of the body, depending on the change in the leading dimensional characteristics. Graduation is carried out separately by size and height. Graduation by weight groups is not performed, since typical figures of the same size and height in different weight groups have different constitutions.
Movement of design points during gradation: ΔХ - horizontal increment; Δ - vertical increment; (ΔХ + Δ) - total displacement vector
Basic principles of gradation use of uniform rules for the gradation of patterns for details of clothing for men, women, boys and girls; uniform arrangement of baseline gradation lines; a unified method for calculating the values of displacements of structural points; the constancy of the displacement values of the design points relative to the original base size in each selected subgroup of sizes; a unified type of presentation of information and scientific and technical documentation for the graduation of patterns in manual and automated modes. keep unchanged the allowances for free fitting, the directions of the warp threads in the details, the norms of the sleeve fit and the technological allowances (for seams, shrinkage, wear, etc.). When grading patterns in size, the initial horizontal increment is an increment to the width of the finished specimen along the chest line, equal to half the interdimensional difference - 2 cm (since ∆С гІІІ = 2.0 cm). The distribution of the interdimensional difference between the width of the main sections of clothing (backs, armholes, shelves) is performed in proportion to the width of these sections in the product and the variability of the dimensional characteristics of the width of the back (W s), the width of the chest (W g. The total value of the horizontal increment to the width of the sleeve in the finished form is usually design 0.1–0.15 cm more than the increment to the width of the armhole to maintain a constant sleeve fit in all sizes.
Gradation points are the points of intersection of construction lines or points located on the contour lines of clothing parts, which, when graduated, change position relative to the original lines. The main points of gradation are identical to the design points of the basic structures (BC). Initial lines (axes) of gradation are conditional lines, relative to which the contours of the patterns of the base size are converted into patterns of any given size or height.
Influence of the position of the gradation axes on the value of the increments of the design points a - alignment of the midline and waist line of the back detail; b - the combination of the tangent to the armhole line and the chest line of the back detail; c - the combination of the vertical passing through the top of the neckline and the waist line of the back detail.
Basic requirements for the selection of origin points and lines (axes) of gradation; original lines (axes) of gradation and points must be the same for the corresponding parts of men's, women's and children's clothing; the original lines (axes) must be aligned with the axes of the rectangular coordinate system; initial lines (axes) should ensure the minimum movement of the most difficult curved sections of the structure; baselines (axes) must coincide with the main structural lines of the base structure; the Y-axis should match the location of the warp thread on the garment details.
The beam method The beam method is advisable to use when grading parts of hats and corsetry items, the increments of which are made in the radial direction. Straight lines are drawn from a certain point (focus) through the main design points of the part. From the contour of the part along these rays, the values of the increments of the points are laid off and cuts of parts of adjacent sizes and growths are obtained.
Grouping method (graphic) Provides the alignment along two mutually perpendicular axes of two sets of patterns (medium and adjacent or medium and extreme sizes). The grouping method is used as an initial one to determine the increments at the design points of the patterns of clothing parts of complex cuts (atypical gradation schemes), as well as for design points and segments that are not parallel to the X, Y axes in a rectangular coordinate system, and those that were determined during construction in a constructive way. Such structural elements include darts on the bulges of the shoulder blades, abdomen, chest, the point of the top of the neck of the shelf, the top of the armhole of the back and the shelf, etc.
Proportional-calculation (calculation-analytical) method of gradation. With the proportional-calculation (calculation-analytical) method, the increments are calculated based on the variability of the subordinate dimensional characteristics and are set in accordance with the position of the design points from the original gradation lines.
The designation system for the directions of movement of structural points Designation Horizontal Vertical When increasing size or growth When decreasing in size or growth + right → left ← up down ↓ - left ← right → down ↓ up
Typical patterns for the gradation of patterns. Typical patterns for the gradation of patterns are developed for shoulder and waist products in relation to their typical cut on the basis of unified principles for calculating the values of displacements of the main design points. A typical design of shoulder garments at the stage of graduation of patterns is considered to be a product design with a set-in sleeve, consisting of the following parts: a back, a shelf, a cut-off side part, a single-seam sleeve with a different seam position or two-seam with a back and front seams.
The position of the baselines (axes) of the gradation In the parts of products of standard designs, the baselines (axes) of the gradation are usually taken constructive lines that define the baseline grid of the design drawing.
Initial lines and points in shoulder garments according to the EMKO CMEA method: on the back, the vertical line (33–13) runs tangentially to the armhole line, and the horizontal line (31–33) runs along the thoracic-axillary line, the starting point is 33; on the shelf, the vertical line (35–15) runs tangentially to the armhole line, and the horizontal (35–37) - along the thoracic-axillary line, the starting point is 35; on the sleeve, the vertical reference line (351–355) runs along the upper section of the front fold line of the sleeve, and the horizontal one (351–333) coincides with the ridge depth line and corresponds to the position of the product armhole depth line, the initial point is 351 (Fig. 6). With the gradation of the collars, their width is left constant in the middle and at the ends; the value of the increments to the collar length is set in accordance with the change in the length of the neck of the back and the front. In the collar, one initial line is chosen - a vertical one, most often passing through a notch corresponding to the position of the shoulder seam
The width of the bead, lapel, front roll of the set-in sleeve, folds, valves, cuffs, belt, straps, etc. do not change during gradation. This allows you to use gradation schemes, in which the details are shown without the above items of clothing. Moving points lying on the original gradation lines is performed only in one direction along the gradation line: horizontally or vertically. All other design points of the contour are moved along the diagonal of the rectangle, the sides of which are the transverse and longitudinal increments to the given size of the part
When grading the patterns of the back and shelf parts along the heights, the longitudinal dimensions change only in the longitudinal direction in the parts of the parts located below the chest line (waist line, hips and bottom), neglecting the transverse increments due to their relatively small size. This approach does not take into account the regularities in the change in transverse dimensions with increasing height, but it allows you not to change the shape of the support areas that affect the fit of clothing. When grading patterns of parts by height, the initial increment is the increment to the length of the finished product, determined on the basis of the intergrowth difference between adjacent lengths of the products. In addition, the amount of gradation of individual points varies depending on the type of clothing and the length of the product.
In accordance with the scale of lengths of articles and sleeves, the following values of the intergrowth difference between adjacent lengths of articles are adopted: 3 cm - for knee-length dresses and coats; 4 cm - for extra long dresses and coats; 2 cm - for a jacket, jacket; 2 cm - for a long sleeve; 2 cm - for knee-length skirts; 3 cm - for extended skirts; 4 cm - for trousers.
Typical gradation schemes Typical height gradation scheme for details of the back of women's clothing. Typical grading scheme for the size of the back of women's clothing
- Typical grading scheme of the backrest detail with relief (sizes 84 -104)
Typical grading scheme for the back with a yoke in women's clothing Typical grading scheme for the back and barrel for a woman's jacket (sizes 84-104)
Basic literature Amirova E. K., Sakulina O. V., Sakulin B. S., Trukhanova A. T. Designing clothes, Textbook. for stud. institutions wednesday prof. image. Ed. Center / Academy /, 2012 G. A. Kryuchkova "Designing women's and men's clothing." M. 2005 E. B. Koblyakova, G. S. Ivleva, A. I. Martynova. Clothing Design with CAD Elements, 2nd ed. , revised to add. Ed. E. B. Koblyakova. M.: Legprombytizdat, 1992. Recommended reading I. A. Radchenko “Fundamentals of designing and modeling clothes (1st edition), textbook, M. 2012 B. S. Sakkulin, E. K. Amirova clothes ". M. 2001 A. I. Martynova, E. G. Andreeva. "Constructive modeling of clothes", M. 2002. E. B. Koblyakova, A. I. Martynova. "Laboratory workshop on designing clothes with CAD elements."
Increment table
Route construction is performed by entering increments at the points of the pattern. For gradation, you need to specify the point of the pattern, enter the increment value in the table and execute the multiplication command.
In order to open the Table of increments, it is necessary to select the button of the on-screen button menu or execute the items "Window / Show (remove) the table of increments" of the text menu of the program. In this case, the Increment Tables window appears on the screen:
Increment table functions
Working window "Increments" consists of a number of functions, and a table of values of increments.
In the left column of the table, the increments along the X axis are entered, in the right column - along the Y axis.
Depending on the established sign of reproduction (size, height, completeness), a list of sizes, heights or completeness of the working model appears in the table:
The increment value of the graded patterns at a specific point can be viewed by pointing it with the cursor and clicking the left mouse button.
The base size is the initial size for the gradation, therefore, when the piece is multiplied, the form of the base size does not change, and its row in the table is zeroed. Pattern layout according to the table data is built from the base size, and then from size to size up and down the scale. The increment sign specifying the direction of the gradation is set from a smaller size to a larger one.
Point parameters control
The increments are set only at the End and Control intermediate points of the patterns.
For the graduation, it is important what status the intermediate point has:
An increment must be entered at the Control Intermediate Point (), otherwise all routing dimensions will collapse to this one point (increment zero).
Intermediate points () have no increments, and during gradation move in proportion to the increments of adjacent Control points.
This property of Via points can be used for gradation. For example, the increment of the shoulder (1) and lower (2) points of the back armhole is introduced. A point on the armhole section (3) can be automatically scaled proportionally between two points (1 and 2) if it has the status of Intermediate point. If the point is a Control point, you need to enter an increment in it, otherwise all dimension lines will be brought together to one point.
To change the parameters of a point, use the function - "Point / Change the status of a point"
Recommendation: At the end of reproduction, you need to return the point to the status of Control intermediate (if necessary, adjusting the value of its actual increment). Otherwise, according to the properties of Intermediate points, when moving adjacent points, it will also be displaced.
Functional points (), as a kind of Intermediate, do not require reproduction. Their position in the layout depends both on the increments of adjacent points, and on their own purpose - dividing the area in a given ratio, or an offset from a point at a given distance.
Main functions of the Increment table
Modes of operation in the coordinate system:
Internal and screen coordinate increments.
In the internal coordinate system, the increment values are read by the position of the piece in the base, and in the screen system - by the position of the screen coordinate axes, or the piece itself on the screen.
Signs of pattern breeding:
Reproduction in size, height and weight.
The blocking of these modes is determined by the type of scale of the working model:
The modes of reproduction by height and weight are disabled in the Size scale;
In the Size-growth scale, the mode of reproduction by weight is disabled;
Patterns reproduction modes:
Four modes of pattern reproduction
1st: Same increments in all sizes (for uniform propagation)
2nd: Increments for each size (for uneven reproduction)
3rd: Increments with jumps (for propagation over size ranges)
4th: Reproduction by measurement criteria
Increment types:
Interdimensional and Cumulative increment.
The values entered in the table are distributed either between sizes - sequentially from size to size, or in total between the extreme dimensions of the layout (in this case, the increment is divided by the number of intermediate sizes).
Working with point groups:
Set a group of points; Add and Remove a point from a group; Destroy the group.
The functions allow you to create and adjust groups of points with the same increment, for the simultaneous gradation of different points of one or several patterns.
Graduation command:
Carry out reproduction according to the set parameters and values.
Starting the gradation process by the entered values, taking into account the active modes of the table.
Increment table special functions
Copy increment functions:
Copying the increment in full, and separately in the X, Y coordinates.
The functions allow you to copy the increment value from a specified point to several other points, either completely, or only along one of the coordinates - X or Y.
Modes of zeroing increments:
Zeroing the increments for all and for the current dimensional attribute.
Point reproduction functions:
Reproduction of a point between dimensions, and across the entire layout.
The functions allow you to evenly distribute the existing increment at a point between two specified dimensions, or all over the entire layout at once
Additional functions:
Calculate the increment in a given direction.
Calculation of the increment at a point from two adjacent ones.
Proportional calculation of the point increment between the increments of the two specified points of the parcel.
Functions for filling the table:
Transfer values from the window for entering values for X, Y into table cells
Change the sign of the increment in X, Y
Insert X, Y increments from Calculator
Moving the Increment Table around the screen
To move the table window on the screen to a more convenient place, you must:
- Left-click on the top pane of the table window
- Hold down the key and move the table to the desired location
- Release the mouse button to fix the position of the window.
When the table is called to the screen again, it is exited in the last position, but only until the next restart of the program.
Working with the Increment Table
6.Specify a point for gradation
Open the Gauge Table
To start the Increment Table window, select the on-screen button menu button or execute the "Window / Show (hide) increment table" items in the text menu.
In this case, the table of increments appears on the screen:
Selecting a breeding trait
To reproduce a piece by size, height or fullness, you need to turn on the button corresponding to the sign of reproduction.
Grading starts by size, and when the table is started, this mode is enabled automatically. If the model reproduces only in size, signs of growth and fullness are blocked.
Breeding mode selection
The reproduction mode is switched on by one of the four table buttons, for the gradation of patterns
evenly, unevenly, with jumps, according to the measured data of the program "Size bases".
1st mode: Same increments across all sizes
Creation of uniform pattern layout when entering one increment value for all sizes.
Interdimensional increments: the value is set between dimensions, in the direction from the smallest to the largest.
Cumulative increments: the value is set cumulatively between the extreme dimensions of the routing, and is evenly divided by the number of intermediate dimensions
2nd mode: Increments for each size (for uneven reproduction)
Creates uneven routing by entering different increments for each dimension.
3rd mode: Increments with jumps (for reproduction by size ranges)
Routing across size ranges, with jumps in increments.
Interdimensional increments: the amount of increment is set between sizes in a given range, from smaller size to larger size
Cumulative increments: the value is set cumulatively between the extreme sizes of the range and is evenly divided by the number of intermediate sizes within each range.
To specify jumps in increments, you need to specify the boundaries of the gradation ranges by clicking in the line of the required size, starting from the final size of the first range. Deselection of a line is performed by right-clicking the mouse. Rows are highlighted when you select sizes.
Do not specify the very first line of sizes, but select the line of the larger size of the first range at once (since the smaller size is always the upper limit of the first range).
Range functions:
Specify Increment Ranges
List of increment range options
Clears the list of increment range options.
In the program, it is possible to create several variants of ranges for the gradation of patterns of one model.
Having created the first range (as described above), to enter a new range, you need to select the command and enter the boundaries of the increment jumps. In the list of ranges, this option is spelled out as.
4th mode: Reproduction by measurement criteria
An additional grading mode, in which, instead of the digital values of the increments, the designations of the measured features of the figure are introduced (Cg - half-chest, Shp - shoulder width, etc.).
Operation in this mode is described in detail in the section of special functions of the Increment table.
Creating point groups
Different points of the patterns can have the same increments. In this case, it is convenient to combine them into groups, and set the increment value once for the entire group.
Point groups are created separately by size, height, fullness.
To create a group of points, you must:
- Sequentially indicate the points of one or more patterns, for which you need to enter one increment value. Selected points are highlighted in color.
- Finish the selection by clicking the right mouse button and repeat the operation for other points.
If you select a point in the group by mistake, the commands for canceling the action of the on-screen menu work.
A group of points can be set by highlighting the capture area on the screen. This requires:
- Keeping the left mouse button pressed, move the cursor across the screen, highlighting the area around the points of one group.
- Release the mouse button to fix the area
Commands for working with point groups:
1) Adding new points to the previously created group:
- Pick any point that belongs to the group.
- Specify a point, or several points of different patterns, which must be included in this group.
2) Removing a point from a group:
- Specify a point, or several points to be removed from the group.
- Finish the selection of points by clicking the right mouse button.
3) Destruction of groups of points:
- Specify a point belonging to the group to be deleted
While specifying points, hold down the keyboard key
ATTENTION! If there is a piece on the screen and its copy ("without a name", or with a name), if there are point groups, both pieces will be automatically multiplied synchronously.
This allows, for example, to simultaneously gradate the "common" points of the Top and Back patterns without creating a special group of points for them.
If such a parallel gradation is not required, only one of these patterns should be displayed for reproduction. If you do not create point groups, the patterns are multiplied independently of each other.
Entering the increment of the selected point
To enter an increment, you need:ATTENTION! You need to work with the points of the Main contour (Working or Finished view), and the derived contour will change automatically. When you try to specify a derived Slice contour, no actions are performed in the Table.
- Enter the increment value separately for the X and Y coordinates, respectively, in the left and right windows of the lower part of the table
You can also click on the button with the name of the required size to fill in the table after entering data in the lower windows, or enter the values separately in each cell. To do this, click the left mouse button in the desired cell and enter the increment value.
The value is entered according to the selected mode and type of reproduction (interdimensional, total).
ATTENTION! In all modes of reproduction, the sign of the input values ("+" or "-") sets the direction of the gradation. The sign of the increment in X (left column) and Y (right column) is set along the coordinate axes, from the smallest size to the largest.
Functions for filling the table:
Populating the table with original increments
After entering new increments at a previously graded point, using this function, you can display the original increments at a point, returning the view of the previous filling of the table.
Breaking the connection with the point (clearing the table data from the last increments)
The table data is zeroed out and does not reflect the increment of the last selected point.
Change the sign of the entered increment in column X or Y
Saving the increment to the internal buffer of the table; - Calling values from the table buffer to copy increments from point to point.
Paste into column X or Y the increments saved in the "Algebra of seams" and "Calculator" buffer. This data comes out only in the 2nd breeding mode (sized).
For example, for the gradation of patterns according to the Timesheet data, enter the actual timesheet data in one tab of the Calculator “G”, calculate the increment using the function f6 in the other tab “H”, and save this data to the buffer. The table command enters this data into the required column (X, Y).
Performing gradation
To perform the gradation by the entered increments, you must select the command.
In this case, the point will receive an increment according to the gradation modes set in the table, and its layout will be displayed on the screen according to the current dimensional characteristic - size, height or fullness.
When the pattern is graded by size, only the layout of sizes comes out, with the gradation by heights, only the layout is by heights, the same is for completeness.
To display the full layout of the pattern, you need to execute the command,
by pressing and holding the keyboard key
Go to work with other points of the pattern
By alternately indicating other points or groups of points of the pattern, all the necessary increments are entered, according to the available gradation schemes.
The transition to another sign of reproduction: by height, weight
For models of the growth scale, it is necessary to proceed to reproduction by growth by turning on the button and repeat the entire cycle of the reproduction operation.
Then, for models of the fullness scale, go to the multiplication by completeness by turning on the button, and repeat the whole cycle of the multiplication operation.
Close Increment Table
When you have finished entering the increments, you must close the table by clicking the button on the top panel of the table. You can also press the button for starting the table of the on-screen button menu again, or execute the items of the text menu "Window / Show (remove) the table of increments".
Save graded pattern
To save the pattern to the base, you must select the button of the on-screen button menu, or execute the items of the text menu "Window / Save the contents of the screen in the base".
Grading sequence in different breeding modes
1) For gradation in the 1st reproduction mode, you must:
- Specify a point for gradation on the piece
2) For graduation in the 2nd breeding mode, it is necessary:
Reproduction in the 2nd mode is also automatically set when the table is started.
- Specify a point for gradation on the piece
- Fill in the table: enter the increment values in the left (X) and right (Y) columns of dimensions
- Continue entering dimension increments by specifying other points on the pattern.
3) For graduation in the 3rd breeding mode, you must:
- Set size ranges for gradation by clicking in the range bounding buttons (except for the first size)
- Specify a point for gradation on the piece
- Continue entering dimension increments by specifying other points on the pattern.
Special Modes Increment Tables
Special functions
Copying increments
To copy an increment from one point to another point (or multiple points), you must:
- Specify point (1) of the incremental pattern to be copied
- Select the command for copying increments in the table:
Copy the entire increment.
Copying the increment value along the X coordinate only.
Copying the increment value along the Y coordinate only.
In this case, the cursor takes the form, respectively, or.
- Indicate one or more points (2a, 2b, 2c, 2d) to which you want to transfer the increment.
The operation of copying increments allows you to create a so-called "Directory of increments".
It is possible to compose a special series of models with a worked-out gradation of patterns of different assortments. Then, when grading new patterns, you can copy the increments from the “reference” patterns at the desired points by calling them to the Working model screen from the Active “reference” model (using the function of the “Work with base” window)
Zeroing increments
To reset the increments of previously graded patterns, you must:
- Select one of the resetting commands in the table:
Zeroing the increment at a point for all dimensional characteristics: size, height, fullness
Zeroing the increment for the current dimensional attribute: -size, -growth, -completeness
In this case, the program cursor takes the form, respectively, or.
- Specify a point (or multiple points) to zero increments
In this case, lines of all sizes will be brought to this point completely, or only by size, height, fullness. Point zeroing commands only touch specific points, not groups.
If necessary, after zeroing the increments, you can use the function - "Plot / Replicate" to align the curly sections of the piece in different sizes to the shape of the base size.
While executing commands and while holding down the keyboard key
Using the function - "Delete dimensions" in the "Working with base" window, you can delete all dimensions of the layout, except for the base one. In this case, the values of all increments of the pattern will also be reset to zero.
Over-multiplying point increments
To evenly distribute the increment between two sizes, or throughout the entire layout, you need:
- Select one of the commands for reproducing the increment of a point in the table:
Reproduction of the increment between the two specified dimensions. The cursor changes to
Reproduction of the increment across the entire layout. The cursor changes to
- Specify point (1) in the first calculated dimension
- Pick the same point (2) in a different size
In this case, the total increment between the indicated dimensions is evenly divided by the number of intermediate dimensions. The resulting increment will be set either only within the range between the specified dimensions, or across all dimensions.
Point reproduction commands only touch specific points, not groups.
Increment in a given direction
In the program, it is possible to enter increments not only in XY coordinates, but also on the continuation of the section. This method of gradation is used, for example, for details of flounces, curly belts, various oblique cuts: in flared skirts ("bell", "sun"), for cuts of raglan sleeves, etc.
To enter the increment calculated along the direction of the specified line, you must:
- Pick point (1) for gradation
- Pick a piece of the piece near the end point (1a).
In this case, the data entry window appears on the screen, where it is necessary to enter the increment value:
The sign of the value determines the direction of the gradation: if the area is lengthened in size, the increment value will be positive, if it is shortened, it will be negative.
You can enter values of different sizes manually (button), or from the buffer (button).
- Press the YES button to confirm the data entry.
In this case, the data entry window closes, and in the Table of increments the entered increment value is automatically "decomposed" into 2 coordinates: X (left column) and Y (right column).
The point increment is directed along the line specified on the screen (tangent to the end point).
To preserve the shape of the multiplied area, you can insert a Control point (2) near the graded point using the “Point / Paste Arbitrary” function. Such a point will allow not to "overpropagate" the entire area automatically, but to maintain its shape.
This arbitrary point should be located from the point to be graded at such a distance in all dimensions so as not to interfere with reproduction (more than the total value of the increment).
Increment calculated from two adjacent points
The function allows you to set a point an increment proportionally calculated between the increments of two specified points of the segment. This requires:
- Specify the first point (1) of the section
- Specify the second point (2) of the same area
- Indicate the point (3) of this section, at which it is necessary to obtain the calculated increment.
In this case, the point receives an increment based on the increments of the two indicated points, taking into account the proportional relationship of its position on the site.
For example, if point (3) divides the segment in half (between points 1 and 2), it will receive an increment calculated as the sum of two increments at the specified points, divided by half.
In fact, the same principle works when assigning a point of the Intermediate type, but in this command the designer can specify any two points of the section (not only end points), and the position of this point will not be affected by the increment of other points of this section.
The increment is not specified for the endpoints of the segment in this function (as well as for the Functional).
Gradation of patterns in screen coordinates
In addition to the gradation in the internal coordinate system, when the increment values are read by the position of the piece in the base, you can multiply the pieces in screen coordinates: by the position of the rotated screen axes, or the piece rotated on the screen.
To reproduce patterns in the screen coordinate axes, you must turn on the mode before selecting all other modes of gradation (sign of reproduction, type of reproduction, etc.).
For contrast, the background of the Breeding Table in screen coordinates turns yellow. All other stages of performing the gradation are similar to those described for working in the internal coordinate system.
Using the commands for creating on-screen groups of patterns (functions of the on-screen menu 
or the items of the test menu "Window / Combine patterns ..."), you can combine the patterns on the screen so as to set the rotation required for the gradation.
Using the commands for working with the screen axes (functions of the bottom panel 
or the items of the text menu "Window / Coordinate axes ..."), you can set the axis along the line, for the gradation of the point in the specified direction.
Gradation of the pattern rotated on the screen
For the gradation of the raglan sleeves, you can use the increments of the patterns of a typical design with a set-in sleeve. For example, to graduate the shoulder point of the back of the sleeve, you must:
Reproduction mode - evenly, with interdimensional input of values (1st mode,)
- Select the shoulder point of the sleeve for gradation and enter the increment value in the table, which is typical for patterns of a standard design (with a set-in sleeve).
Having destroyed a group of patterns (OSD button), you can return the pattern to its original state on the screen (OSD button), and switch to the internal coordinate system mode in the Table of increments. At the same time, the entered increment is automatically recalculated.
Graduation in rotated coordinate axes
If the value of one of the coordinates - X or Y is not known for entering the increment, the rotation of the screen axes equates one of them to zero, to perform gradation along one coordinate, along the line.
For example, for the gradation of the bottom cut of a one-piece front sleeve along the line, you must:
cursor to the point of gradation - the upper point of the lower cut of the sleeve. Release the mouse button.
Thus, the rotation of the axes along the section of the bottom of the sleeve is set, and the coordinate Y is equated to zero.
Now, for gradation along the bottom line, it will be enough to enter an increment only along the X axis.
This requires:
In this case, the background of the table cells turns yellow.
Reproduction mode - evenly, with interdimensional input of values (1st mode,)
- Select the gradation point and enter the increment value along the X coordinate in the table
This creates an increment directed along the line of the lower edge of the sleeve.
At the end of the work with the rotated axes, you need to return them to the standard position, otherwise all operations related to the X, Y coordinates will be performed taking into account the given rotation of the axes.
When returning to the internal coordinate system mode in the table, the entered increment is automatically recalculated.
In the commands for working with coordinate axes, you can set the axis tangentially to the curved section by executing the "Set origin" command while holding down the
When you click NEXT to an end point, the axis will be positioned at that End point, and rotated tangentially to the specified area. Thus, you can set increments not only along a straight section, but also along a curved one.
Point groups are not created in the screen coordinate axes.
Indeed, after returning to the original position of the patterns rotated on the screen, they will retain those groups and gradation values that were correct only for their previous, screen spread, but may be completely incorrect for the state in which the patterns are stored in the database.
Gradation of patterns according to measurement criteria
Reproduction by measurement criteria is an additional, 4th grading mode, in which, instead of digital values of increments, the designations of measurement signs of a figure are introduced (Cg - half chest, Shp - shoulder width, etc.).
The values of these measurement characteristics are set in the tables of the "Dimension Bases" program. When you select one of the tables (for example, OST of typical figures), a list of measurement characteristics appears, which can be entered in the form of formulas for the gradation of the corresponding design point of the pattern.
The value of the increment at a point will be calculated automatically, based on the multiplication of measured attributes in the table "Size bases", according to their interdimensional, intergrowth, and intergrowth increments. For example, the half-girth of the chest (Cg) in size has a difference of 2 cm. If you choose this measurement sign for gradation, an increment of 2 cm will be entered at the point.
The order of gradation according to the measured data
A list appears on the screen in which you need to select one of the tables: specify the required line and press the YES button. The name of this dimension base appears on the top panel of the Increment Tables.
- Specify a point for gradation on the piece
- Select in the list of measured characteristics the appropriate data for gradation from the tabs "Measurement", "Increments", "Variables" using the switch "Data"
- Select the desired dimension feature in the tab list by clicking on it, and enter it into the gradation cell
along X (left) or along Y (right), using the appropriate button - left or right.
In this case, the desired name goes into the gradation cell:
If necessary, you can use not only individual data elements of the size base, but also form expressions from them. For example, "Sat /"
ATTENTION! Non-linear quantities (coefficients, parts) must be enclosed in square brackets
Features of reproduction according to measurement data
1) If, when selecting the "Size base" table, the range and composition of the dimensional characteristics of the working model and the size base itself do not match, a warning appears on the screen:
Prerequisite for data transfer: dimensional characteristics must match, and the size range of the working model can be less than or equal to the range in the dimensional base. In addition, it is unacceptable to use dimensional bases where there are empty cells in the table of measurement signs.
2) It is possible to enter data with the function "Towards ..." - for example, to enter the increment of the dimensional given Shp (shoulder width) along the shoulder line.
In this case, the data entry cells are automatically filled with coefficients that take into account the slope of the specified line. The entered value will be decomposed into two components: X and Y. To enter data, after the multiplication sign (*), enter one value in both cells:
3) It is necessary to perform a gradation in size and height, as well as completeness exactly in accordance with the type and direction of reproduction of the measured trait itself.
That is, if a measured trait multiplies both in size, and in height, and horizontally, and vertically, then it must be entered into the table of increments in the mode "by size", then "by height", and enter data into cell X or Y - in accordance with the sorting (position) of the patterns.
4) ATTENTION! Entering increments at a point must be performed with regard to the previously entered data in adjacent points. That is, you need to keep in mind the COUNTING point of increments, and one by one "build up" the formulas, adding the following new data to the previous parameters.
Example: Propagation of the cervical point horizontally (X coordinate) is carried out according to the formula of the difference between measurements "Position of the body" and "Depth of the waist1" "Pk - Gt1". Then the multiplication of the point of the apex of the neck of the back horizontally, equal to 1/3 of the Semi-girth of the neck "* Ssh", must be performed taking into account the first displacement. As a result, we get the expression: "(Pk - Gt1) + * Csh"
Similarly, expressions are drawn up to fill the cell of the Y-axis:
5) If you need to enter an expression that is valid only for a part of the dimensions, you can use the table "Size base" to enter the multiplied values - factors.
For example: for sizes 44-52, you must enter the expression 0.5 * Op
for 54-60 - expression 0.5 * (1.25 * Op)
for 62-68 - expression 0.5 * (1.75 * Op)
In the “Variables” tab of this dimensional base, you must enter the coefficient (K1). In this case, the conversion will be performed from 1.25 to 1250, therefore it is necessary to enter the expression "K1 / 1", and fill in the table as a table of linear values (1.25, 1.75, ...)
6) When a new model is called into the working window of the program, or when the operation of copying models ("Subject / Save as") is performed, the set size base and expressions with dimensional characteristics will be saved.
ATTENTION! It is important to remember about the danger of repeated reproduction according to these formulas, if after graduation at a point the increment required correction (according to the data of the "Algebra of seams" buffer, etc.)
7) The functions of transferring increments from point to point will be locked
8) If, after entering the formula and performing the propagation, the "Rollback" was performed, the layout will return to its original form, but the formula at this point will not be automatically canceled. It needs to be either changed or entered in point increments in a different mode (for example, by size). That is, if you do not specifically perform the Multiply function for a given point, multiplication by the formula will not be performed.
9) Copies of patterns will not save a set of entered expressions with measured data.
10) This breeding mode can be used for the Children's range, or for breeding according to the Table of Measures sent by the customer. At the same time, in the program "Dimensional bases" it is possible to enter such a timesheet by following the menu items "Data / Import of * .xls files"
11) The function of calling a table from a file () is executed only for the OXP format. But if in the program "Dimensional bases" call from the file "corporate" Table of measures sent in tabular form in Excel format (extension.xls), and save it, it will be converted to the OXP format and can be used in the Table of increments.
Features of working with the Table of increments
1.When working in the Table of increments, automatic completion of the missing in
wiring size-growth. For example, if the pattern was not multiplied by heights and weights (if they are in the model), then when multiplied by sizes, the entire layout (both by heights and by weights) is automatically created with zero increments.
2.If there are missing dimensions in the piece, after entering the data at the first point,
the missing size is automatically created (multiplied by the nearest smaller increment at each point). The missing size row in the Increment Table is zeroed out.
3.When working on a small scale, if the points are VERY close, and when specifying
points are highlighted at once 2 points - the entered increment will be valid for both points!
4.In the "Routing control" (F6) mode, the Increment table does not open.
Other ways of grading patterns in the program
In the program for grading patterns, in addition to the Table of increments, you can use other functions:
1) Function - "Pattern / Get intermediate (all) sizes" allows you to get intermediate, all or extreme dimensions of the layout for two existing dimensions
2) The "Duplication" mode in the "Work with the base" window allows you to get a complete layout of the piece at the nearest smaller increment of the existing dimensions
3) For reproduction of patterns of a simple form (facing pockets, valves, etc.), you can move areas or points by different amounts in different sizes. To do this, the pattern must have the status of a pattern to be multiplied (enable the multiplication options in the "Pattern parameters" window)
For example, the length of the valve in the base size 38 is 12.5cm. It is necessary to set for him reproduction by groups of sizes: 36–38 size - 14.5 cm; 40-42 size - 15cm, 44-46 size - 15.5cm.
To do this, you can select the function - "Point / Shift by X" and enter the value of displacement of points in the table of dimensions. The amount of displacement is equal to the difference between the lengths of the base and other sizes: for the base (38) and 36 sizes, the amount of displacement is zero, and for other sizes the difference is in 40-42 sizes - 0.5 cm; in size 44-46 - 1cm.
At the end of the function, it is necessary to check the result of the displacement by measuring the length of the valve:
When the valve points are displaced by a different amount along the wiring, the process of graduation of the pattern is actually performed. The resulting value of the increment can be viewed in the Table of increments:
