Dictionary of old names for body parts. Ancient Russia: clothes and hats. What women wore in ancient Russia

Brad a, f. Beard . | There is an old man in the cave; clear view, // Calm look, gray-haired brada(Pushkin). Suddenly there is a noise - and a warrior enters the door. // Brada in blood, battered armor(Lermontov).

V e wait, pl. , units yes, w. Eyelids. | In those days, when there are no more hopes, // And there is one memory, // Fun is alien to our leaders, // And suffering is easier on the chest(Lermontov). And close the old veins // We wish you the last, eternal sleep(Baratynsky).

Vlas NS, pl. , units vlas, m. Hair. | An old man in front of the lamp // Reads the Bible. Gray-haired // Hair falls on the book(Pushkin). And then on my forehead // Gray hair did not shine(Lermontov).

V s i, f. Neck . ¤ Bend the neck in front of someone- to cringe. | Go, and with a rope on your neck // Appear to the vile killer(Pushkin). He sang over the cosmic haze, // Having developed hair and arched his neck(A. Bely). Prussian baron, girding his neck // White frill three inches wide(Nekrasov).

Heads a, pl. chapter you, f. Head. ¤ Put something at the forefront- to be considered the most important. At the head something- leading something, ahead of someone else. Led by someone- having someone as a guiding, leading beginning. | Bow down the first chapter // Under the shelter of the trustworthy law(Pushkin). Having bowed his head, he stands, // Like a girl in fatal sorrow(Lermontov).

Glezn a, pl. glee zna, f. Shin. | I hurriedly dragged my leg along the bloody field of battle(Homer. Per. Gnedich).

Desn and tsa, f. The right hand, as well as the hand in general. ¤ Desn s th- right, located on the right side. Odesn u u- on the right hand, on the right. Punishing right hand- retribution. | The sharp sword on the thigh shines, // The spear wards the right hand(Pushkin). And with my holy right hand // He showed the true path(A. K. Tolstoy). With a dart another, who had swept near the elbow, he grazed the gum: // Black blood flowed(Homer. Per. Gnedich).

Hand, w. Palm . | You will take the hammer in your hand // And you will cry: freedom!(Pushkin). He sees the circle of the family, left for battle, // of the Father, stretching out his numb hands(Lermontov). Lame Porfiry took off the censer from a wooden nail, hobbled over to the stove, blew up a coal in cedar pitch, gave it to the elder with a kiss on his hand(A. K. Tolstoy).

Zen and tsa, f. Pupil. ¤ Protect someone like the apple of your eye- to protect carefully, carefully. | Prophetic apple opened, // Like a frightened eagle(Pushkin). Dumb thunderstorms went with a whirlwind, // Sometimes shining with the apple of things(Block). A tear quietly swirled at his apple, and his gray head drooped dejectedly(Gogol).

Lan and that, f. Cheek. | With an involuntary flame, she licks // Stealthily a young nymph, // Without understanding herself, // Sometimes she looks at the faun(Pushkin). They love you, and you will substitute the whole back for them for joy(Dostoevsky). His cheeks never blushed from shame, except from anger or a slap in the face(Radishchev).

Face, m. Face. | But the pale face often changes color(Lermontov). And I cried in front of you, // Looking at your face dear(A. K. Tolstoy). Forever // In my soul, like a miracle, it will remain // Your light face, your air is incomparable(Nabokov).

Oh to, pl. about chi and stripping, cf. Eye . ¤ An eye for an eye - about revenge. In the blink of an eye - in an instant, instantly, immediately. | The eye sees, but the tooth doesn’t(last). Tombstones are heavy // On your sleepless eyes(Akhmatova). Again I see your eyes - // And one of your southern gaze // Of the Cimmerian sad night // Suddenly the sleepy coldness dissipated ...(Tyutchev). I see your emerald eyes, // A bright appearance rises before me(Soloviev).

NS e rsi, pl. Breasts as well as women's breasts. | Their voluptuous melodies // The heat of love is poured into the hearts; // Their Persians breathe with lust(Pushkin). Like pearls of percy whiteness(Lermontov). The [dove] quietly sat on her on the persie, embraced them with wings(Zhukovsky).

Finger, m. Finger, usually a finger on the hand. ¤ One is like a finger - completely alone, all alone. | The apostle of destruction, to the weary Hades // With the finger he appointed sacrifices(Pushkin). Fingers obedient hair thick strand(Fet). Orphan, your honor, like one finger, neither father nor mother ...(Dostoevsky).

Flesh, f. Body . ¤ Somebody's flesh and blood or Flesh of the flesh of someone- someone's own child, brainchild. To clothe in flesh and blood or to put on - to give something or take one or another material form. Enter flesh and blood- take root, become an integral part. Into the raft and- embodied in a bodily image, in reality. | But a man with flesh and blood is outraged even by such a death(Turgenev). Not flesh, but spirit is corrupted in our day(Tyutchev). The Lord // Transfers his to the Chosen One // The ancient and blessed right // Create worlds and into the created flesh // Breathe in instantly a unique spirit(Nabokov).

Metacarpus Fist (part of the hand between the wrist and the main phalanges of the fingers). | He had already left the room, when the king ordered him to turn off the light, which is why a hand came back and a pastern in a glove fumbled and turned the switch(Nabokov). Now only that which could be weighed and measured became real, // What could be weighed and measured, // Touch with the metacarpus, express as a number(Voloshin).

Fri a, pl. fifth you, well. Heel as well as foot. ¤ Up to the toes - about a very long, almost to the ground clothing or braid. On the heels of someone(walk, chase) - follow someone without lagging behind. Under someone's heel- under oppression, under power. From head to toe - completely, completely, completely. | Greedy sin chases after me(Pushkin). Russian coat to toe. // Galoshes creak in the snow(Nabokov). Because if I really fly into the abyss, then I’m so straight, head down and upside down, and even happy that it is in this humiliating position that I’m falling and I consider it a beauty for myself.(Dostoevsky).

R and mo, pl. frame, cf. Shoulder . | Alone, raising a powerful labor on the shoulder, // You are vigilantly awake(Pushkin). The spear of the ramen pierces, // And gushes blood from them like a river(Lermontov). And rushed to Palestine, the cross on the ramen!(Zhukovsky).

Ust a, pl. Lips, mouth. ¤ On everyone's lips - everyone is talking, discussing. On the lips of anyone- ready to say, to say. From someone else's mouth (learn, hear) - to hear from someone. Firsthand ( learn, hear) - directly from someone who knows better than others. Pass by word of mouth- communicate from one to another. In someone's mouth to put(words, thoughts) - make them speak on their own behalf, on their own behalf. Drink honey with your lips- it would be nice if you were right, if your assumptions came true. | Speaks the truth through the mouth of a baby(last). Fool, wanted to assure us, // That God speaks through his mouth!(Lermontov). She gazed at me and laughed with her lips alone ... without a sound(Turgenev). Nature has an insidious smile on its lips(Okudzhava).

People O, pl. chela, cf. Forehead . ¤ To beat with a forehead - (to someone) bow low to the ground; (to someone) to thank; ( somebody something) to bring a gift, gifts; (to someone) to ask for something; ( to somebody to somebody) to complain. | Look at the darling, when her brow // She surrounds flowers in front of the mirror(Pushkin). I again appeared among people // With a cold, gloomy brow(Lermontov). His kiss burns on your, like marble, pale brow!(Turgenev).

Cz e weak, pl. Loin, hips. ¤ Gird the loins with a sword- prepare for battle. | And chastely and boldly, // Shining naked to the loins, // The divine body blooms // With unfading beauty(Fet). I still have a tingling tingle in my very loins from the pistol firing of these blows.(Nabokov).

NS at the egg, f. Left hand . ¤ Osh wu yuyu- on the left hand, on the left. | He touched the table with a heavy shuytse(Zhukovsky). Shuytsa Ajax covered up, // Strongly hitherto held the shield(Homer. Per. Gnedich). Forgive the simpleton, but is this ray on your swarthy shuyets not a magic stone?(Nabokov).

Do you know what women wore in Ancient Russia? And what was the man allowed to wear? What did the commoners wear in Ancient Rus, and what did the boyars wear? You will find answers to these and other equally interesting questions in the article.

What is the rationale behind the shirt

- "I know what the rationale is," - we will say now, having learned the true cause of this or that incident. But in the days of Kievan Rus, this meant something completely different. The fact is that the clothes then were very expensive, they took care of them, and in order for the shirt to serve the owner as long as possible, it was strengthened for strength with a lining, that is, a background. It can be assumed that this expression acquired an ironic connotation due to the fact that some poor people boasted of rich sewing, but they were betrayed by the wrong side, sewn from cheap fabric. After all, the clothes of Ancient Rus served not only for warming, but also to emphasize their social status. The shirt was of no small importance here. For the nobility, it was underwear, for the poor it was often the only one, not counting ports and bast shoes. In addition, the shirt of a commoner was much shorter so as not to hinder movement.

Ornament from the evil eye

The boyars did not work in the field, so they could afford underwear almost to the knee. But regardless of whether you are poor or rich, the shirt had to be a belt. The word "got loose" was used in the literal sense, but had an equally negative connotation. In addition, ornament was highly desirable on this part of the garment. Its patterns protected from the evil eye and other troubles. Death was a frequent visitor to peasant huts. Then the "unfortunate" shirts were used. White ones with white embroidery, if their parents died, and embroidered with black patterns, if there was mourning for the children. Each piece of clothing also had ritual significance. When the widows plowed the village, preventing it from such misfortunes as cholera or the death of livestock, they were bare-haired, without shoes and in snow-white shirts without any decorations.

For whatever occasions the shirts were intended, they did not have a collar. For the celebration, it was replaced by the so-called necklace, which was fastened at the back with a button. This collar went well with any other clothing. And for the longest time, such a kind of shirt has been preserved as the kosovorotka. It appeared back in the IX, and was worn until the XX century. A padded cloth with a small opening for the head and a cutout on the left side of the chest is all there is to it. Simple and practical.

The curtain on the back

Shirts were rarely worn separately. In the center and in the north of Russia, a sundress was worn from above, and in the south - a ponytail. What is poneva? In Ancient Russia, it was a kind of skirt, only consisting not of one, but of three woolen or half-woolen panels, tied at the waist with a gash. This belt was a sign that the woman was married. The color of the poneva was dark, with a red or blue tint, less often black. On everyday life, they sewed braid or kumach at the bottom, and on holidays they took out poneva from the chests, the hems of which were decorated with as many-colored embroidery as possible.

Women in those days had a hard time in many ways. Clothes are no exception. A feature of the women's clothing of Ancient Russia was that over all of the above, an apron was worn, which was called a curtain, and the Russian costume was completed with a canvas, woolen or half-woolen shushpan.

Six kilograms on the head

Women's hats deserve a special mention. In a married woman, he could reach six kilograms. The main thing is that this structure completely covers the hair. The people have long believed that they have witchcraft power. The canvas base was compacted with hemp or birch bark to form a solid forehead. This was called kika, which ended with a cover made of chintz, velvet or kumach. The back of the head was covered with a backside, a rectangular strip of fabric. In total, such a "hat" could include twelve parts. In winter, a round fur hat could be seen on the head of a Slav, but the hair was completely covered with a scarf. On holidays, a kokoshnik with a bottom made of matter and a base made of solid material appeared on their heads. It was usually covered with gold cloth and trimmed with pearls.

It was much easier for the girls. Their headdress in Ancient Russia looked like a band, a hoop or a crown. If such a rim was richly decorated, then it was called koruna. A tough, often metal base covered in embellished fabric was fashionable with urban dandies. In the villages, girls' corollas were simpler. Men preferred round hats with a fur rim. Sheep, arctic foxes and foxes were used for fur. They also wore sun-dried hats and felt caps. Usually their shape was tapered, and the top was rounded. They were sewn from linen and wool, and also knitted. Sable skullcaps could only be afforded by princes and close boyars.

Footwear

The legs were wrapped with a cloth made of canvas or cloth, and on these onuchi they put on bast shoes or cats, leather shoes. But the very first leather shoes in Russia were pistons. They were made from a single piece of leather, which was gathered around the edge with a strap. Bast bast shoes were very short-lived. Even in the village they were worn for no more than ten days. On city pavements, they wore out even faster. Therefore, there were more common bast shoes made of leather straps. Metal plates were often sewn on them, so that they got a kind of sandals.

Today, felt boots are considered the most traditional footwear in Russia. But in fact, they appeared only in the 19th century and were very expensive. Usually the family had only one pair of felt boots. They wore them in turn. Boots were widespread much earlier. They were sewn from leather in the same way for men and women. The nobility sported in boots made of morocco, goatskin soaked in a solution of lime and polished with a stone, yuft, that is, thick leather, and calfskin, calfskin. Other names for boots are ichigi and chebots. Shoes, which were tied with laces, were women's shoes. Heels appeared on them only in the 16th century and could reach 10 centimeters.

From ports to trousers

If we talk about trousers, then this word came to Russia from the Turks somewhere in the 17th century. Before that, leg clothes were called ports. They were made not very wide, almost tight. A gusset was sewn between the two legs for ease of walking. These primitive trousers were long to the shins, where they tucked into onuchi. For noble people, they were sewn from taffeta in summer and from cloth in winter. There were no buttons, and there was no cut for them. At the hips, the ports were held in place with a lace. Something similar to trousers in the modern sense of the word appeared in Russia under Peter I.

You can't survive without pants in Russia

The great importance of clothing among Russians was determined, of course, by the climate. In winter, you can't go out into the street without pants, as in Rome or Constantinople. And the outerwear of Ancient Rus was in many ways different from what was in use in most European countries. Going out into the street, they put on warm long suites made of cloth. Their sleeves were with cuffs, and their collars were with a turndown collar. They were fastened with buttonholes. This is typical for ancient Russian clothing. The richer people introduced caftans made of axamite and velvet into fashion. Zipun is a type of caftan without a collar. Boyars considered it underwear, and the common people put it on the street. The word "zupan" is now considered Polish or Czech, but it has been used since ancient times in Russia. This is the same suite, but shorter, slightly below the waist. And, of course, speaking of winter, one cannot fail to mention fur. It must be said that fur clothes and their quantity did not serve as a sign of wealth. There was more than enough furry animal in the forests. Fur coats were sewn with fur inside. They were worn not only in cold weather, but also in summer, even indoors. You can recall historical films and the sitting of boyars in fur coats and fur hats.

Old Russian sheepskin coat

One of the signs of prosperity in our time is a sheepskin coat. But among the Slavs, such clothes - a casing - were in almost every home. They made it from the skin of goats or sheep with fur inside. On the peasants it was more often possible to see a sheepskin coat, a sheepskin casing. If common people wore naked casings, then the boyars preferred to cover them on top with foreign, expensive cloth. This could be, for example, Byzantine brocade. Knee-length jackets were later transformed into sheepskin coats. Women also wore them.

But other varieties of men's winter clothing in Ancient Russia are forgotten more firmly. For example, an armyak. Initially, it was adopted from the Tatars and was sewn from camel hair. But it was too exotic, and besides, the sheep's wool was no worse. They put on an army jacket over a sheepskin coat, so there was no way to fasten it. Another indispensable attribute of the Old Russian wardrobe was used: a sash.

One of the oldest Slavic robes is epancha. It is a round hooded cloak but sleeveless. He came from the Arabs and is even mentioned in the "Lay of Igor's Host." Since the 16th century, it has become a cape, worn on solemn occasions, and under the field marshal of Suvorov, the epanch becomes part of the soldier's and officer's uniform. Ohaben was worn by people from the upper classes. After all, they sewed it from brocade or velvet. A feature of the ohabbia were extremely long sleeves, which were thrown over the back, where they were tied in a knot. On Easter, noble boyars went to service in the ferryaz. It was already the height of luxury, royal ceremonial clothing.

We will also mention such clothes for all classes as one-row. This is a kind of caftan, but long-lined and with buttons to the hem. It was sewn from colored cloth, without a collar.

In a robe and a fur coat

Women of fashion preferred winter coats with decorative sleeves. They were long and foldable, and there were slits for the arms above the waist. Many types of Russian costume were original. An example of this is heartbreak. For peasant women, it was a festive outfit, and for more prosperous young ladies, it was everyday. Soul heat - loose, narrow clothing in front, in length rarely reaching the middle of the thigh. It was usually sewn from expensive fabrics with beautiful patterns. Shugai is another type of short, fitted outerwear that resembles a modern sweater. Could have had a fur collar. Wealthy city dwellers wore outerwear and cotton fabrics. In the annals, there is a mention of the dressing gowns on the prince's daughters. For commoners, they were apparently a novelty.

From flax and sermyaga

The fabrics from which the clothes were made were initially not very diverse. Linen and hemp were used for underwear. The upper, overhead outfit was woolen, and warm suites were made of coarse sermyagi and sheepskin. Gradually, representatives of noble families acquired more and more silk fabrics from Byzantium. Brocade and velvet were used.

Cloak and power

For a long time, the cloak was an obligatory item in the Russian wardrobe, especially the princely one. It was sleeveless, thrown over the shoulders, and chipped off with a brooch near the neck. They wore cloaks and stinkers. The difference was in the quality of the fabric and the fact that the commoners did not use brooches. The first of the known varieties of cloak is votola, made of plant-derived fabric. Both farmers and princes could wear votolu. But the spearmint is already a sign of high origin. There was even a fine for damaging this cloak during a fight. Several centuries later, mint could be seen more often on monks than on urban dandies. But the chroniclers mention the basket only when they want to emphasize the princely dignity of its owner. Most likely, even the closest boyars had no right to wear such a cloak. There is a known case when he saved a person from death. For some reason, the prince wanted to save someone, over whom the sword was already raised. For this, he threw a basket over him.

Kholstina

What is canvas fabric? Now, not every person knows the answer to this question. And in pre-Mongol Russia, canvas clothing was the most common among both nobility and commoners. Flax and hemp were the first plants to be used to make textiles and clothing, mainly shirts and ports. Girls in those ancient times wore a zapon. Simply put, it is a piece of fabric that has been folded in half to create a cutout for the head. Worn over an undershirt and belted. The daughters from wealthier families had thinner fabrics for their underwear, while everyone else had coarser, sackcloth-like underwear. The wool shirt was called a hair shirt, it was so rough that it was worn by monks to humble the flesh.

Will ohabeen come into vogue

Much of the wardrobe of ancient fashionistas and dandies, having slightly changed, has survived to this day, but it has become far from being so accessible. The same well-made casing costs as an inexpensive car. Fur warmth is also not affordable for every woman. But now hardly anyone wants to wear ochaben or in one row. Although, they say, fashion is returning.

Women's clothing during the times of Muscovite Rus was mainly swing-open. Outerwear was especially original, which included summer men, quilted jackets, chillers, peasants, etc.

Letnik - top cold, that is, without lining, clothing, moreover, an invoice, worn over the head. The summer man differed from all the clothes in the cut of the sleeves: in length, the sleeves were equal to the length of the summer man, in width - half the length; from shoulder to half they were sewn together, and the lower part was left unstitched. Here is an indirect description of the Old Russian Letnik given by the steward P. Tolstoy in 1697: "The nobles wear black outerwear, long, to the very ground and tyrokia, just as the women used to sew on the female sex in Moscow."

The name “Letnik” was recorded around 1486, it had a general Russian character, later “Letnik” was a common name for; men and women of clothing are represented in the North Russian and South Russian dialects.

Since the summer men had no lining, that is, they were cold clothes, they were also called cold men. Women's queen, elegant wide clothes without a collar, intended for home, also belonged to the cold. In the Shuiskaya petition in 1621 we read: "My wife's dress is a cold star, yellow and other warm kindyak, azure." Back in the 19th century, various types of summer canvas clothing were called cold weather in a number of places.

In the descriptions of the life of the royal family, dating back to the second quarter of the 17th century, a painting maker is mentioned several times - women's outerwear with a lining and buttons. The presence of buttons and she differed from the summer. The word “raspashnitsa” appeared as a result of the desire to have a special name for women's swinging clothes, since men's swinging clothes were called opashen. In Moscow, a corresponding option for naming women's clothing appeared - a warrior. In the second half of the 17th century, loose-fitting loose-fitting clothing loses its attractiveness in the eyes of representatives of the upper class, the beginning orientation towards Western European forms of clothing affects, and the names considered passed into the category of historicisms.

The main name for warm outerwear is quilted warmer. Telograi did not differ much from the murals, sometimes men also wore them. These were mostly indoor clothes, but warm, since they were lined with cloth or fur. Fur quilts did not differ much from fur coats, as evidenced by such an entry in the inventory of the royal dress of 1636: “The queen's queen was cut with a colored silk worm (crimson, bright crimson - G. S.) and light green, the length of the fur coat on the front is 2 arshina ". But padded jackets were shorter than fur coats. Telograi entered the life of the Russian people very widely. Until now, women wear warm sweaters, shower jackets.

Women's light fur coats were sometimes called torlops, but since the beginning of the 17th century, the word torlop has been replaced by the more universal name of a fur coat. Rich fur short coats, the fashion for which came from abroad, were called cortels. Corteles were often given as a dowry; Here is an example from an ordinary charter (a dowry agreement) of 1514: "On a girl's dress: a cortel kuney with a louse, seven rubles, a cortel of whitewashed ridges, half a third of a ruble. A strip is ready and a cortel of linen with taffeta and a louse is ready." By the middle of the 17th century, cortels also went out of fashion, and the name became archaism.

But from the 17th century, the history of the word kodman begins. This clothing was especially common in the south. In the documents of the Voronezh clerk hut in 1695, a humorous situation is described when a man dressed up as a codman: "For a few days, a woman's outfit came to a codman, and he is really strong not to remember and put on a cotmon for a joke." Kodman looked like a cape; kodmans were worn in Ryazan and Tula villages before the revolution.

And when did the "old-fashioned shushuns" appear, which Sergei Yesenin mentions in his poems? In writing, the word shushun has been noted since 1585, scientists assume its Finnish origin, initially it was used only in the east of the northern Russian territory: in Podvinye, along the river. Vahe in Veliky Ustyug, Totma, Vologda, then it became known in the Trans-Urals and Siberia. Shushun - women's clothing made of fabric, sometimes lined with fur: “shushun azure and shushun female cats” (from the income and expense book of the Anthony-Siysk monastery in 1585); "A shushun in a rag and that shushun to my sister" (spiritual charter - a testament from 1608 from Kholmogory); "Shushunenko warm zaechshshoe" (painting of clothes in 1661 from Vazhsky district). Thus, shushun is a North Russian telogreya. After the 17th century, the word spreads south to Ryazan, west to Novgorod, and even penetrates into the Belarusian language.
The Poles borrowed wire rods - a type of outerwear made of woolen fabric; these are short quilts. For some time they were worn in Moscow. Here they were sewn from sheepskin covered with cloth on top. This clothing has survived only in Tula and Smolensk places.
Clothes such as kitlik (an outer jacket for women - the influence of Polish fashion), belik (clothes of peasant women made of white cloth) fell out of use early. Nowadays, nasovs are also almost not worn - a kind of overhead clothing worn for warmth or for work.
Let's move on to the hats. Here it is necessary to distinguish four groups of things, depending on the family and social status of the woman, on the functional purpose of the headdress itself: women's scarves, headdresses developed from scarves, caps and hats, girls' headbands and crowns.

In the old days, the main name for women's clothing was plat. In some dialects, the word is preserved to this day. The name of the headscarf appears in the 17th century. This is how the whole complex of the woman's headdresses looked: "And the robberies from her were ripped off by a three-handed nizan with sables, the price is fifteen rubles, a golden aspen kokoshnik with pearl grains, the price is seven rubles, and the headscarf is sewn in gold, the price is a ruble" (from the Moscow court case 1676). Shawls that were part of a room or summer outfit of an ash-woman were called ubrus (from brusnut, to scatter, that is, to rub). The clothes of fashionistas in Muscovite Rus looked very colorful: “All are yellow and worm-clothed fur coats, dressed with a beaver necklace” (“Domostroy” but from the 17th century list).

Fly is another name for a headscarf, by the way, very common. But until the 18th century, the povoy was very little known, although later from this word the commonly used povoinik develops - "a headdress of a married woman that tightly covers her hair."

In the old book writing, headscarves and capes also had other names: withered, eared, glavotiag, basting, cloak, khustka. Nowadays, in addition to the literary cape, the word basting “female and girlish headdress” is used in the southern Russian regions, and in the south-west - a hustka “scarf, fly”. Since the 15th century, Russians have been familiar with the word veil. The Arabic word veil initially denoted any veil on the head, then the specialized meaning of “the bride's cape” is fixed in it, here is one of the first uses of the word in this sense: “And how they scratch the head of the Grand Duchess and put a kiku on the princess, and hang the veil” (description wedding of Prince Vasily Ivanovich 1526).

A feature of the girl's dress was the bandages. In general, a characteristic feature of a girl's attire is an open crown, and the main feature of a married woman's attire is full hair cover. Girls' headwear was made in the form of a bandage or a hoop, hence the name - bandage (in writing - from 1637). Bandages were worn everywhere: from the peasant hut to the royal palace. The outfit of a peasant girl in the 17th century looked like this: "The girl Anyutka is wearing a dress: a green cloth caftanish, a dyed azure quilted jacket, a gold-embroidered headband" (from a Moscow interrogation record of 1649). Gradually, dressings are falling out of use, they were preserved longer in the northern regions.

Girls' headbands were called headbands, this name, along with the main dressing, was noted only in the territory from Tikhvin to Moscow. At the end of the 18th century, a bandage was the name given to ribbons worn by rural girls on their heads. In the south, the name of the bundle was more often used.

In appearance it is close to a bandage and a crown. This is an elegant girlish headdress in the form of a wide hoop, embroidered and decorated. The crowns were decorated with pearls, beads, tinsel, gold thread. The elegant front part of the crown was called a peredenka, sometimes the whole crown was also called that.

The married women wore closed hats. The head cover in combination with the ancient Slavic "amulets" in the form of horns or crests is a kick, a kichka. Kika is a Slavic word with the original meaning "hair, braid, vikhor". Only the wedding headdress was called Kika: “They will scratch the head of the Grand Duke and the princess, and they will put a kiku on the princess and hang a cover” (description of the wedding of Prince Vasily Ivanovich in 1526). Kichka is a women's daily headdress, distributed mainly in the south of Russia. A variety of kiki with ribbons was called snur - in Voronezh, Ryazan and Moscow.

The history of the word kokoshnik (from kokosh "rooster" by its resemblance to a cock's comb), judging by the written sources, begins late, in the second half of the 17th century. Kokoshnik was a general dress, worn in cities and villages, especially in the north.
Kiki and kokoshniks were supplied with a cuff - a back in the form of a wide assembly covering the back of the head. In the north, cuffs were required; in the south, they could be absent.
A magpie was worn together with a kitsch - a cap with a knot back. In the North, the magpie was less common, here it could be replaced by a kokoshnik.

In the northeastern regions, kokoshniks had a peculiar appearance and a special name - shamshura, see the inventory of the Stroganovs' property compiled in 1620 in Solvychegodsk: “Shamshura is sewn in gold on white earth, the headdress is sewn in gold and silver; the shamshura is woven with brooms, the headdress is embroidered with gold ”. The elegant girlish headdress was a tall oval-shaped circle with an open top; it was made of several layers of birch bark and covered with embroidered fabric. In the Vologda villages, stupid people could be the wedding attire of brides.

Various hats, worn on hair under scarves, under kitsch, were worn only by married people. Such headdresses were especially widespread in the north and in central Russia, where climatic conditions required the simultaneous wearing of two or three hats, and the family-community requirements for the obligatory covering of hair by a married woman were stricter than in the south. After the wedding, the young wife was put on a underbird: "Yes, put a kick on the fourth dish, and put a cuff under the kick, and a cap, and a haircoat, and a veil" (Domostroy, according to the list of the 16th century, wedding rank). Evaluate the situation described in the text of 1666: "He, Simeon, ordered to take off the sub-cowgirls from all the female robots and walk with simple hair, girls, because they had no legitimate husbands." Podbranniki were often mentioned in the inventories of the property of townspeople and wealthy villagers, but in the 18th century they are qualified by the Dictionary of the Russian Academy as a type of common women's headdress.

In the north, more often than in the south, there was a hairworm - a hat, sewn from fabric or knitted, worn under a scarf or hat. The name is found in the last quarter of the 16th century. Here is a typical example: “Maryitsa beat me on the ears in his courtyard and harassed me, and robbed me, and with a robbery from my head grabbed a hat and a golden hair-ring and pearl sheathing was knitted with silk” (petition from 1631 from Veliky Ustyug). The hairwort differed from the kokoshnik in a smaller height, it tightly fitted the head, and was simpler in design. Already in the 17th century, hairs were worn only by rural women. From below, a trim was sewn to the hairline - an embroidered circle made of dense fabric. Since the trimming was the most prominent part of the garment, sometimes the entire hairline was called the trimming. Let us give two descriptions of the hairsmen: "Yes, my wife has two golden hairs: one has pearl trim, the other has gold trim" (petition from 1621 from Shuisky district); "Pearl embroidery with hairline with gimp" (Vologda dowry painting in 1641).

In the second half of the 17th century, in Central Russian sources, instead of the word volostnik, the word mesh begins to be used, which reflects a change in the very appearance of the object. Now the cap began to be used as a whole, with a tight circle sewn on from the bottom, but it itself had rare holes and became lighter. Volosniki still remained on the North Russian territory.
Pod-lingonberries were more often worn in the city, and hairs were worn in the countryside, especially in the north. Noble women have an embroidered dressing cap from the 15th century. was called a cap.

The name Tafya was borrowed from the Tatar language. Tafia is a hat worn under a hat. For the first time, we find a mention of it in the text of 1543. Initially, the wearing of these headdresses was condemned by the church, since taf'i were not removed in the church, but they became part of the home custom of the royal court, large feudal lords) and from the second half of the 17th century. women also began to wear them. Wed a remark by a foreigner Fletcher about Russian headdresses in 1591: "Firstly, they put on a taffy or a small night cap, which covers a little more than a top, on top of a taffy, and wear a large cap." Eastern hats of different types were called Tafia, therefore the Turkic arakchin, known to Russians, did not spread, it remained only in some popular dialects.
All the hats mentioned here were worn by women mainly at home, as well as when going out into the street - in the summer. In winter, they dressed up in fur hats of various kinds, from a variety of furs, with a brightly colored top. The number of headgear worn at the same time increased in winter, but winter headgear tended to be common for both men and women.<...>
Let's no longer spy on our fashionistas and finish our story on this.

GV Sudakov "Old women's clothing and its names" Russian speech, No. 4, 1991. P. 109-115.

Drawings by N. Muller

You can collect not only stamps, porcelain, autographs, match and wine labels, you can also collect words.
As a costume designer, I was and are interested in the words associated with costumes. This interest arose long ago. As a student at GITIS, I was doing my term paper "Theatrical costume in the theaters of Count N. P. Sheremetev" and suddenly I read: "... the dresses were made of stamed." But what is it? Stamed became the first "copy" of my collection. But when reading fiction, we quite often come across relic words, the meaning of which we sometimes do not know or know approximately.
Fashion has always been "capricious and windy", one fashion was replaced, one name came another fashion, other names. Old words were either forgotten or lost their original meaning. Probably, few can now imagine dresses made of gran-framed material or the color of a "spider plotting a crime", and in the 19th century, such dresses were fashionable.

Dictionary sections:

Fabrics
Womens clothing
Mens clothing
Shoes, hats, bags, etc.
Costume details, underwear
National costume (Kyrgyz, Georgian)

Fabrics 1

"They took many good-looking girls, and with them so much gold, colored fabrics and precious aksamite."
"A word about Igor's regiment."

AXAMIT. This velvet fabric got its name from the technique of making examiton - a fabric prepared in 6 threads.
Several types of this fabric were known: smooth, looped, sheared. It was used for making expensive clothes and for upholstering furniture.
In Ancient Russia, it was one of the most expensive and beloved fabrics. From the 10th to the 13th century, Byzantium was its only supplier. But the Byzantine axamites did not reach us, the technique of making them by the 15th century was forgotten, but the name remained. The Venetian axamites of the 16th-17th centuries have come down to us.
The great demand for the axamite in Russia in the 16th-17th centuries and its high cost caused increased imitation. Russian craftswomen successfully imitated the rich patterns and loops of aksamite. By the 70s of the 18th century, the fashion for axamit had passed and the import of fabric to Russia had ceased.

“Why on earth did you dress up in a woolen dress today! I could have walked around in a barge night. "
A. Chekhov. "Before wedding".

BAREZH- inexpensive thin, lightweight semi-woolen or semi-silk fabric made of tightly twisted yarn. It got its name from the city of Barege, at the foot of the Pyrenees, the place where this fabric was first made by hand and went to the manufacture of peasant clothes.

"... and a tunic of precious Sargon fine linen of such a brilliant golden color that the clothes seemed to be woven from the sun's rays" ...
A. Kuprin. "Shulamith".

WISSON- expensive, very lightweight, transparent fabric. In Greece, Rome, Phenicia, Egypt, it was used to make clothes for kings and courtiers. The mummy of the pharaohs, according to Herodotus, was wrapped in fine linen bandages.

"Sofya Nikolaevna got up briskly, took from the tray and brought her father-in-law a piece of the finest Aglitsa cloth and a jacket made of silver brocade, all richly embroidered ..."

EYE- silk fabric with gold or silver weft. Difficult to work out, had a large pattern depicting flowers or geometric patterns. Glazet was of several varieties. Close to brocade, it was used for sewing camisoles and theatrical costumes. Another variety was used for the manufacture of church robes, coffin sheathing.

"... yes, three Grogronovs are thirteen, Grodenaplews, and Grodafriks ..."
A. Ostrovsky. "Our people will be numbered."

"... in a silk headset with gold grass a kerchief on his head."
S. Aksakov. "Family Chronicle".

GRO- the name of the French very dense silk fabrics. In the tenth years of the XIX century, when the fashion for transparent, light materials passed, thick silk fabrics came into use. Gro-gro - silk fabric, dense, heavy; gros de pearl is a gray pearl silk fabric, gros de tour - the fabric got its name from the city of Tours, where it first began to be made. In Russia it was called a headset. Gros de napol - silk dense fabric, rather light, also got its name from the city of Naples, where it was made.

“One was dressed in a luxurious bodice from a lady; embroidered with gold, which has lost its luster, and a simple canvas skirt. "
P. Merimee. "Chronicle of the times of Charles X".

LADY- silk fabric, on a smooth background of which colored patterns are woven, more often a shiny pattern on a matte background. Now this fabric is called Damascus.

"Women in shabby clothes, striped shawls with children in their arms ... were standing near the porch."
L. Tolstoy. "Childhood".

MEAL- cheap coarse linen fabric, often blue-striped. The fabric was named after the merchant Zatrapezny, at whose manufactories in Yaroslavl it was produced.

"... white Casimir pantaloons with spots that were once pulled over Ivan Nikiforovach's legs and which can now only be pulled on his fingers."
N. Gogol. "The story of how Ivan Ivanovich quarreled with Ivan Nikiforovich."

KAZIMIR- half-woolen fabric, light cloth or semi-finished, with an oblique thread. Casimir was fashionable at the end of the 18th century. Tailcoats, uniforms, pantaloons were sewn from it. The fabric was smooth and striped. Striped casimir at the beginning of the 19th century was no longer fashionable.

"... and looked sideways with vexation at the wives and daughters of Dutch skippers, who knitted their stockings in rosin skirts and red blouses ..."
A. Pushkin. "Arap of Peter the Great".

CANIFAS- thick cotton fabric with a relief pattern, mainly striped. For the first time this fabric appeared in Russia, obviously, under Peter I. At the present time it is not being produced.

"A minute later, a blond fellow entered the dining room - in striped trousers tucked into his boots."

PESTRA, OR PESTRA - coarse linen or cotton fabric of multi-colored threads, usually homespun and very cheap. Sundresses, shirts and aprons were sewn from it. At present, all kinds of sarpinks and plaids are produced by its type.

"At the edge of the forest, leaning against a wet birch tree, stood an old shepherd, skinny in a ragged sermyag without a hat."
A. Chekhov. "Svirel".

SERMYAGA- rough, often homespun unpainted cloth. In the 15th-16th centuries, clothes from sermyagi were decorated with bright decorations. A caftan made of this cloth was also called sermyaga.

“Catcher came to me in a black coat without a collar, lined with a black stamet like the devil in Robert.
I. Panaev. "Literary Memoirs".

STAMED (stamet) - woolen slanting fabric, not very expensive, usually went to the lining. It was made in the 17th-18th centuries in Holland. Peasant women from this fabric sewed sundresses, which were called stamedniki. By the end of the 19th century, this fabric fell out of use.

"After all, for me to walk around Moscow on foot in narrow, short trousers and a twin coat with multi-colored sleeves is worse than death."
A. Ostrovsky. "The last victim."

TWIN- plain-dyed half-woolen fabric in the 80s of the XIX century was used to make dresses and outerwear of poor townspeople. Currently not produced.

"When she came out to him in a white tarlatan dress, with a branch of small blue flowers in her slightly raised hair, he gasped."
I. Turgenev. "Smoke".

TARLATAN- one of the lightest cotton or semi-silk fabrics, it looked like muslin or muslin. Previously, it was used for dresses, at a later time, heavily starched was used for petticoats.

"General Karlovich pulled out a foulard scarf from behind a cuff, wiped his face and neck under the wig."
A. Tolstoy. "Peter the Great".

FOULARD- a very light silk fabric that was used for ladies' dresses and scarves. Was cheap. Neck and handkerchiefs were also called Fular.

"Pavel came to class dressed up: in a yellow frieze frock coat and a white tie around his neck."
M. Saltykov-Shchedrin. "Poshekhonskaya antiquity".

FRIEZE- coarse woolen, fleecy fabric; resembled a bike, upper things were sewn from it. Now out of use.

Womens clothing 2

"She was wearing a dress" adrienne "made of scarlet grodetour, laid out at the seams, in a pattern, with silver galloon ..."
Viach. Shishkov "Emelyan Pugachev".

"Adrienne"- a loose dress falling down like a bell. On the back there is a wide piece of fabric fixed in deep folds. The name comes from the play "Adria" by Terence. In 1703, the French actress Doncourt appeared in this play for the first time in such a dress. In England, this cut of the dress was called kontush or kuntush. Antoine Watteau painted a lot of women in similar robes, so the style was named "Watteau's Folds". By the second half of the 18th century, the style fell out of use, such dresses could only be seen on poor urban women.

"The dress did not press anywhere, the lace bertha did not descend anywhere ..."
L. Tolstoy "Anna Karenina".

Bertha- a horizontal strip of lace or material in the form of a cape. Already in the 17th century, dresses were trimmed with it, but a particularly great passion for this trimming was in the 30s-40s of the 19th century.

“Every night I dream that I’m dancing a minute in a crimson bostrog”.
A. Tolstoy "Peter the First".

Bostrog (bastrok, bostrog) - men's jacket of Dutch origin. Was a favorite dress of Peter I. At the Saardam shipyard, he wore a red bostrog. Bostrog was first mentioned as a sailor's uniform in the 1720 naval charter. Subsequently, he was replaced by a pea jacket. In the old days, in the Tambov and Ryazan provinces, the bostrok was a female epanechka (see explanation below) on the helpers.

"A dark woolen burnus, well tailored, was deftly sitting on it."
N. Nekrasov. "Three countries of the world".

Burnous- a white lambswool cloak, sleeveless, with a hood, worn by the Bedouins. In France, burnuses have been in fashion since 1830. In the forties of the XIX century, they become fashionable everywhere. Burnuses were sewn from wool, velvet, and trimmed with embroidery.

“Don't you dare wear this water proof! Hear! Otherwise I'll tear it to shreds ... "
A. Chekhov "Volodya".

Waterproof- women's waterproof coat. Comes from the English water - water, proof - withstanding.

"There is him on the porchold woman
In dear sablein a douchebag ".
A. Pushkin "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish".

Soul heat. In the Petersburg, Novgorod, Pskov provinces, this old Russian women's clothing was sewn without sleeves, with straps. On the front, she had a slit and a large number of buttons. Behind - fees. Another cut is also known - no collection. They put on a soul warmer over a sundress. Soul-warmers were worn by women of all strata - from peasant women to noble boyars. They were made warm and cold, from various materials: expensive velvet, satin and simple homespun cloth. In the Nizhny Novgorod province, dushegreya - short clothes with sleeves.

"Something like a crimson velvet covered with sables was thrown over her shoulders."
N. Nekrasov "Three countries of the world".

Epanechka. In the central provinces of the European part of Russia - short clothes with straps. Straight in front, folds on the back. Everyday - from a printed canvas, festive - from brocade, velvet, silk.

"... the baroness was in a silk dress of an immense circle, light gray, with frills in a crinoline."
F. Dostoevsky "The Gambler".

Crinoline- horsehair petticoat, derived from two French words: crin - horsehair, lin - flax. It was invented by a French entrepreneur in the 30s of the XIX century. In the 50s of the XIX century, steel hoops or a whalebone were sewn into the petticoat, but the name has survived.
The highest flowering of crinolines - 50-60s of the XIX century. By this time, they reach enormous sizes.

"Sophia came in, - in a girlish way - simple-haired, in a black velvet flyer, with sable fur."
A. Tolstoy "Peter the First".

Letnik. Until the 18th century, the most beloved women's clothing. Long, to the floor, strongly slanted at the bottom, this garment had wide, long bell-shaped sleeves that were sewn in half. The unsewn bottom part hung loosely. They sewed the summer period from expensive one-color and patterned fabrics, decorated it with sewing and stones, and fastened to it a small round fur collar. After the reforms of Peter I, the yearbook fell out of use.

“And how can you go in a road dress! Should I send to the midwife for her yellow robron! "

Robron- comes from the French robe - dress, ronde - round. An old dress on tansy (see explanation below), fashionable in the 18th century, consisted of two dresses - the top swinging with a train and the bottom one slightly shorter than the top.

"Olga Dmitrievna finally arrived and, as she was, in a white rotunda, a hat and galoshes, she entered the study and fell into a chair."
A. Chekhov "Spouse".

Rotunda- outerwear for women of Scottish origin, in the form of a large cape, sleeveless. Came into fashion in the 40s of the XIX century and was fashionable until the beginning of the XX century. The name of the rotunda comes from the Latin word rolundus - round.

"She was ugly and not young, but with a well-preserved tall, slightly plump figure, and simply and well dressed in a spacious light gray sak with silk embroidery on the collar and sleeves."
A. Kuprin "Lenochka".

Sak has several meanings. The first is a loose women's coat. In the Novgorod, Pskov, Kostroma and Smolensk provinces sak - women's outerwear with buttons, fitted. They sewed it on cotton wool or tow. Young women and girls wore it on holidays.
This type of clothing was common in the second half of the 19th century.
The second meaning is a travel bag.

“But you’re lying - not all: you promised me a sable cloak too.”
A. Ostrovsky "Our people - we will be numbered."

Salop- outerwear for women in the form of a wide long cape with a cape, with slits for the arms or with wide sleeves. They were lightweight, on cotton wool, on fur. The name comes from the English word slop, meaning free, spacious. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, these clothes went out of fashion.

"Masha: We must go home ... Where is my hat and talma!"
A. Chekhov "Three Sisters".

Talma- a cape worn by both men and women in the middle of the 19th century. It was in vogue until the beginning of the 20th century. The name was given to the famous French actor Talma, who wore such a cape.

"Arriving home, grandmother, peeling off the flies from her face and untiing the figs, announced her loss to grandfather ..."
A. Pushkin "The Queen of Spades".

Tansy- a frame made of whalebone or willow twigs, which was worn under the skirt. They first appeared in England in the 18th century and existed until the 80s of the 18th century. In Russia, figs appeared around 1760.

"This dream awakens,
Rises early, early,
Morning dawnwashes away.
White flywipes off. "
A story about Alyosha Popovich.

Fly- scarf, cloth. It was made of taffeta, linen, embroidered with golden silk, decorated with fringes, tassels. At royal weddings, she was a gift to the newlywed.

“Don't go so often on the road
In an old-fashioned shabby shushun. "
S. Yesenin "Letter to Mother".

Shushun- old Russian clothes like a sundress, but more closed. In the XV-XVI centuries, shushun was long, up to the floor. Usually, hanging fake sleeves were sewn to it.
Shushun was also called a short swinging jacket, short-brimmed fur coat. The shushun coat survived until the 20th century.

Mens clothing 3

"Not far from us, at two shifted tables by the window, sat a group of old Cossacks with gray beards, in long old-fashioned caftans, here called azamas."
V. Korolenko "At the Cossacks".

Azam(or ozyam). Ancient peasant men's and women's outerwear - a wide long-length caftan, no collection. It was usually sewn from homespun camel cloth (Armenian).

"Not far from the tower, wrapped in an almaviva (almavives were then in great fashion), there was a figure in which I immediately recognized Tarkhov."
I. Turgenev "Punin and Baburin".

Almaviva - a wide men's raincoat. Named after one of the characters in the Beaumarchais trilogy, Count Almaviva. Was in vogue in the first quarter of the 19th century.

"The brothers have finally broken with the old world, wear Apache shirts, rarely brush their teeth, cheer with all their hearts for their native football team ..."
I. Ilf and E. Petrov "1001 days, or a new Scheherazade".

Apache- shirt with an open wide collar. It has been in vogue since the First World War until the 1920s. The fascination with this fashion was so great that in those years there was even a dance "apache". Apaches were called declassed groups in Paris (robbers, pimps, etc.). Apaches, wishing to emphasize their independence and disregard for the world of the haves, wore shirts with a wide, loose collar, without a tie.

"At the door stood a man in a new army jacket, girded with a red sash, with a large beard and an intelligent face, by all indications a headman ..."
I. Turgenev "Lull"

Armenian. In Russia, a special woolen fabric was also called an armyac, from which sacks for artillery charges were sewn, and a merchant's caftan, which was worn by persons engaged in small carriages. Armyak - a peasant caftan, uncut at the waist, with a straight back, without collection, with sleeves sewn into a straight armhole. In cold and winter seasons, the army jacket was worn on a sheepskin coat, undercoat or short fur coat. Clothes of this cut were worn in many provinces, where they had different names and a slight difference. In the Saratov province chapan, in the Olenets province - chuyka. The Pskov army jacket had a collar and narrow lapels; it was wrapped shallowly. In the Kazan province - Azam and differed from the Pskov armyak in that he had a narrow shawl collar, which was covered with another material, more often with plisets.

“He was dressed as a dull landowner, a visitor to horse fairs, in a motley, rather greasy arkhaluk, a faded lilac silk tie, a vest with copper buttons and gray pantaloons with huge sockets, from under which the tips of unpeeled boots barely peeped out.”
I. Turgenev "Peter Petrovich Karataev"

Arkhaluk- clothes that look like a jersey made of colored wool or silk fabric, often striped, fastened with hooks.

Men's clothing (continued) 4

“- Volodya! Volodya! Ivina! I shouted when I saw three boys in blue bekesh with beaver collars in the window. "
L. Tolstoy "Childhood".

Bekesha- outerwear for men, in the waist, with gatherings and a slit in the back. It was made on fur or on cotton wool with a fur or velvet collar. The name "Bekesha" comes from the name of the Hungarian commander of the 16th century Kaspar Bekes, the leader of the Hungarian infantry, a participant in the wars waged by Stefan Batory. In the Soviet troops, the bekesha was used in the uniforms of the highest command personnel since 1926.

"His hand convulsively reached out to the pocket of the officer's breeches."
I. Kremlev "Bolsheviks".

Breeches- trousers, narrow at the bootleg and wide at the hips. Named after the French general Gallife (1830-1909), at whose direction the French cavalrymen were supplied with special cut trousers. Red breeches were awarded to soldiers of the Red Army who distinguished themselves in battles during the revolution and civil war.

"Hussar! You are cheerful and carefree
Putting on your red dolman. "
M. Lermontov "Hussar".

Dolman, or dooloman(Hungarian word) - a hussar uniform, a characteristic feature of which is a chest embroidered with a cord, as well as back seams, sleeves and a neckline. In the 17th century, doloman was introduced to the troops of Western Europe. Dolman appeared in the Russian army in 1741, with the establishment of hussar regiments. During its almost one and a half-century existence, he several times changed the cut, the number of chest patches (from five to twenty), as well as the number and shape of buttons. In 1917, with the abolition of the hussar regiments, the wearing of dolomans was also abolished.

“Leave him: before dawn, early,
I will carry it out underneath
And I'll put it at the crossroads. "
A. Pushkin "The Stone Guest".

Epancha- a wide long raincoat. They sewed it from light fabric. Epancha was known in Ancient Rus as far back as the 11th century.

“We took off our uniforms, remained in the same camisoles and drew our swords.”
A. Pushkin "The Captain's Daughter".

Camisole- a long vest, it was worn under a caftan over a shirt. It appeared in the 17th century and had sleeves. In the second half of the 17th century, the camisole takes on the appearance of a long vest. One hundred years later, under the influence of English fashion, the camisole is shortened and turned into a short waistcoat.

"A warm winter jacket was put on in the sleeves, and sweat poured from him like a bucket."
N. Gogol "Taras Bulba".

Shroud- old Russian clothing, known since the times of Kievan Rus. A kind of caftan lined with fur, decorated with pearls and lace. They wore it over a zipun. One of the first mentions of the casing in the literature is in "The Lay of Igor's Campaign." In Ukraine, sheepskin coats were called jackets.

"Peter, however, came to the prince's court and that came down against him from the entrance of the princess's servants, all in black mint."
Chronicle, Ipatiev list. 1152 g.

Myatl (myatl) - ancient travel autumn or winter clothing, known in Russia since the XI century. It looks like a cloak. As a rule, it was woolen. It was worn by wealthy townspeople in the Kiev, Novgorod and Galician principalities. The black-colored blizzard was worn by monks and secular people during mourning. In the 18th century, the woodworm was still in use as a monastic robe.

"A month played on his cufflinks in one row."

Of one order- old Russian men's and women's clothing, unlined raincoat (in one row). Hence its name. Worn over a caftan or zipun. She was in Russia before the Petrine reform.

“My sun is red! - he cried, clutching at the floors of the royal ohab ... "
A. Tolstoy "Prince Silver".

Ohaben- old Russian clothing up to the 18th century: wide, long-skirted, like a one-row, with long hanging sleeves, in the armholes of which there were slots for the arms. For beauty, the sleeves were tied at the back. Ohaben had a large quadrangular collar.

“What a stunning view?
Cylinder at the back of the head.
Pants - saw.
Palmerston is buttoned up tight. "
V. Mayakovsky "Next Day".

Palmerston - a coat of a special cut, at the back it fit snugly at the waist. The name comes from the name of the English diplomat Lord Palmerston (1784-1865), who wore such a coat.

"Prince Hippolyte hastily put on his coat, which, in a new way, was longer than his heels."
L. Tolstoy "War and Peace".

Readingot- outerwear such as a coat (from the English Riding coat - a coat for riding a horse). In England, when riding a horse, a special long-length caftan was used, buttoned up to the waist. In the second half of the 18th century, this form of clothing migrated to Europe and Russia.

"He's small, wearing a paper carpet sweatshirt, sandals, blue socks."
Yu. Olesha "Cherry Pit".

hoody- a wide long men's blouse with a pleat and a belt. Lev Nikolaevich Tolstoy wore such a blouse, in imitation of him such shirts began to be worn. This is where the name "sweatshirt" comes from. The fashion for sweatshirts continued until the 30s of the 20th century.

“Nikolai Muravyov, who was standing near Kutuzov, saw how calm and calm this short, obese, an old general in a simple short coat and a scarf over his shoulder ... "
N. Zadonsky "Mountains and Stars".

Coat- men's double-breasted clothing. The look of a long jacket cut off at the waist came into fashion in England at the end of the 18th century, spread throughout Western Europe and Russia as outerwear, then as a daytime suit. The frock coats were uniform - military, departmental and civil.

"Nikita Zotov stood in front of her earnestly and erect, as in a church - combed, clean, in soft boots, in a dark furryaz made of thin cloth."
A. Tolstoy "Peter the First".

Feryaz- an old, long-sleeved, open-top outer garment that was used in Russia in the 15th-17th centuries. This is a dress coat without a collar. Sewed on lining or fur. The front had a button closure and long loops. The ferryaz was decorated with all kinds of stripes. Posad people and small traders wore a ferryaz right on their shirt.

Shoes, hats, bags, etc. 5

"The boots, which rose just above the ankle, were lined with a lot of lace and were so wide that the lace fit into them like flowers in a vase."
Alfred de Vigny "Saint-Mar".

Treads- Cavalry high boots with wide sockets. In France in the 17th century, they were the subject of special panache. They were worn lowered below the knees, and wide sockets were decorated with lace.

"All the soldiers had wide fur earmuffs, gray gloves, and woolen leggings that covered the toes of their boots."
S. Dikovsky "Patriots".

Leggings- Overhead bootlegs that cover the leg from foot to knee. They were made of leather, suede, cloth, with a fastener on the side. In the Louvre there is a bas-relief of the 5th century BC depicting Hermes, Eurydice and Orpheus, on whose feet the "first" gaiters. The ancient Romans also wore them. Gladiators wore gaiters only on the right leg, since the left was protected by a bronze leggings.
In the XVII-XVIII centuries, a single uniform was introduced. At that time, the soldiers' clothes were a caftan (justokor), a camisole (a long vest), short pants - culottes and leggings. But at the beginning of the 19th century, instead of culottes, they began to wear long pantaloons and leggings. Leggings were made short. In this form, they were preserved in civilian clothes and in some armies.

"A man in leggings, holding a bloody handkerchief to his mouth, rummaged in the dust on the road, looking for a knocked-off pince-nez."

Gaiters- the same as leggings. They covered the leg from foot to knee or ankle. They continued to be worn back in the mid-thirties of our century. Now leggings are back in fashion. They are made knitted, often in bright stripes, with ornaments and embroidery. Knee-high leggings made of tough leather are called gaiters.

“The pages of the cameras were even more elegant - in white leggings, lacquered high boots and with swords on old gold harnesses ”.
A. Ignatiev "Fifty years in the ranks".

Leggings- tight-fitting trousers made of deerskin or rough suede. Before putting them on, they were moistened with water and stretched wet. At the beginning of the last century, leggings were part of the military uniform of some regiments in Russia. They survived as a ceremonial uniform until 1917.

“One of the Makhnovists had a straw boater blown away by the wind.”
K. Paustovsky "The Story of Life".

Boater- a hard and large straw hat with a flat crown and straight brim. It appeared in the late 80s of the XIX century and was fashionable until the 30s of our century. The famous French chansonier Maurice Chevalier has always performed in a boater. In the 90s of the last century, boaters were also worn by women.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the so-called "kibitka" - a hat with a small crown and brim in the form of a large visor, was a favorite women's headdress. The name comes from the similarity of the shape of the hat to the covered wagon.


“... Auguste Lafarge, a blond handsome man who served as the chief clerk of a Parisian notary. Wore a carrick with thirty with six capes ... "
A. Moris "Three Dumas".

At the end of the 18th century, fashion came from England for a loose double-breasted coat with several capes covering the shoulders -. It was usually worn by young dandies. Therefore, the number of capes depended on the taste of each. Women began to wear carrick from about the first decade of the 19th century.

"She took out yacht earrings from a huge reticule and, giving them to the birthday-shining and flushed Natasha, immediately turned away from her ..."
L. Tolstoy "War and Peace".

At the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th century, narrow dresses made of thin and transparent fabrics without internal pockets, in which women usually kept various toilet trivia, came into fashion. Ladies' handbags appeared. At first they were worn on the side in a special sling. Then they began to do it in the form of baskets or a bag. Such handbags were called "reticulum" from the Latin reticulum (woven mesh). As a joke, the reticule began to be called from the French ridicule - funny. Under this name, a handbag came into use in all European countries. They made reticules from silk, velvet, cloth and other materials, decorated with embroidery and applique.

Costume details, underwear 6

"A simple white cloak is worn on the king, fastened on the right shoulder and on the left side by two Egyptian agraphs of green gold, in the form of curled crocodiles - the symbol of the god Sebakh."
A. Kuprin "Shulamith".

Agraf- clasp (from French l "agrafe - clasp, hook). In ancient times, a clasp in the form of a hook attached to a ring was called fibula (Latin). Agraphs were made of expensive metals. The Byzantine ones were especially luxurious.

"... the daughter of the voivode boldly approached him, put her brilliant diadem on his head, hung earrings on his lips and threw on him a muslin transparent shemizette with festoons embroidered in gold."
N. Gogol "Taras Bulba".

Chemisette- insert on the chest in women's dresses. It first appeared in the 16th century in Venice, when they began to sew dresses with a very open bodice. From Italy it spread to Spain and France. They made a shemizette from expensive fabrics and richly decorated them. In the early fifties of the XIX century, women's dresses were sewn with double sleeves. The top is made of the same fabric as the bodice, and the bottom is made of shemizette fabric. In elegant dresses, shemizettes were laced or made of expensive material. In everyday wear - from cambric, pique and other fabrics of cream or white color. Sometimes the insert was with a turn-down collar.
Another meaning of a shemizette is a women's jacket, a blouse.

Modest. In ancient Rome, women wore several tunics. The manner of putting on the top and bottom dress at once was preserved until the end of the 18th century. In the 17th century, the outer dress - modest (modeste, in French modest) was always sewn with a swing skirt made of dense, heavy fabrics embroidered with gold and silver. From the sides it was draped, fastened with clasps-agraphs or ribbon bows. The skirt had a train, the length of which, as in the Middle Ages, was strictly regulated. (Train of the queen - 11 cubits, princesses - 5 cubits, duchesses - 3 cubits. The elbow is approximately 38-46 centimeters.)

Freepon(la friponne, from French - cheat, crafty). Bottom dress. They sewed it from light fabric of a different color, no less expensive than on the top dress. Decorated with frills, gathers and lace. The most fashionable was the black lace trim. The names modest and freepon were used only in the 17th century.

"His rengraves were so wide and so richly laced that the sword of a nobleman seemed out of place against their background."
A. and S. Golon "Angelica".

One of the curiosities of 17th century men's fashion was (rhingraves). This peculiar skirt-pants was a bulky garment made up of a series of longitudinal velvet or silk stripes, embroidered in gold or silver. The stripes were sewn onto the lining (two wide legs) of a different color. Sometimes, instead of stripes, the skirt was quilted with folds. The bottom ended with a fringe of ribbons in the form of loops laid one on top of the other, or a frill, or an embroidered border. On the sides, rengraves were decorated with bunches of ribbons - the most fashionable decoration of the seventeenth century. All this was put on the upper pants (eaux-de-chausses) so that their lace frills (canons) were visible. There are several types of X-rays. In Spain, they had a clear silhouette - several even stripes of braid sewn along the bottom. In England, Rangers appeared in 1660 and were longer than in France, where they have been worn since 1652.
Who is the author of such an unprecedented outfit? Some attribute it to the Dutch ambassador in Paris Reingraf von Salme-Neuville, who allegedly surprised Paris with such a dress. But F. Bush in his book "The History of Costume" writes that Salme-Neuville was little concerned with fashion issues, and considers Eduard Palatine to be the possible creator of rengraves, known at that time for his eccentricities and extravagant toilets, an abundance of ribbons and lace.
The fashion for rengravs corresponded to the then prevailing Baroque style and lasted until the seventies.

National costume of some peoples living in Russia

Traditional clothes of the Kyrgyz 7

“She put on a simple dress, but over it was embroidered with intricate patterns of beldemchi, her hands were decorated with inexpensive bracelets and rings, turquoise earrings in her ears.”
K. Kaimov "Atay".

Beldemchi- part of the female Kyrgyz national costume in the form of a swing skirt on a wide belt. Since ancient times, such skirts have been worn in many Asian countries. Clothes in the form of a swing skirt are also known in Ukraine, Moldova and the Baltic states. In Kyrgyzstan, women began to wear beldemchi over a dress or robe after the birth of their first child. In the conditions of nomadic life, such clothes did not restrict movement and protected from the cold. Several types of beldemchi are known: a swing-up skirt is strongly gathered, made of three or four beveled pieces of black velvet. Its edges converged in front. The skirt was decorated with silk embroidery. Another type is a skirt without gathers made of colored velvet or bright semi-silk fabrics. The front of the skirt did not converge by 15 centimeters. The edges were trimmed with strips of otter, marten, and lamb fur. There were skirts made of sheepskin. Such skirts were worn by women of the Ichkilik group in Kyrgyzstan, as well as in the Jirgatel region of Tajikistan and in the Andijan region of Uzbekistan.

"... a scarf is lowered on the shoulders, on the legs of ichigi and kaushi."
K. Bayalinov "Azhar".

Ichigi- soft light boots for men and women. Distributed among most of the peoples of Central Asia, as well as among the Tatars and the Russian population of Siberia. Ichigi are worn with rubber galoshes, and in the old days they wore leather galoshes (kaushi, kavushi, kebis).

“In front of everyone, hanging casually on the left side of the saddle, in a white cap trimmed with black velvet, in a white felt kementai, upholstered in velvet, the Tulkubek adorned. "
K. Dzhantoshev "Kanybek".

Kementai- wide felt robe. These are the clothes of mainly pastoralists: they protect from the cold and rain. In the 19th century, richly decorated white Kementai was worn by the wealthy Kyrgyz.

“Our world was created for the rich and the strong. For the poor and the weak, it is as small as a rawhide charyk ... "

Charyk- type of boots with thick soles, which were cut wider and longer than the foot, and then bent up and stitched. The bootleg (kong) was cut separately.

"Forty-two arrows here,
Forty-two arrows there,
They fly into the caps of the shooters,
Cut off the brushes from the caps,
Without touching the shooters themselves. "
From the Kyrgyz epic "Manas".

Cap- This old Kyrgyz headdress is still very popular in Kyrgyzstan. In the 19th century, the manufacture of caps was a woman's business, and they were sold by men. For the manufacture of the cap, the customer handed over a whole fleece of a young lamb, and the fleece was taken as payment.
The caps were made of four wedges widening downward. Wedges were not sewn on the sides, which allows the fields to be raised or lowered, protecting the eyes from the bright sun. The top was decorated with a tassel.
Kyrgyz caps were varied in cut. The caps of the nobility were with a high crown, the margins of the cap were hemmed with black velvet. Poor Kirghiz wore their headdresses with satin, and children's caps were decorated with red velvet or red cloth.
A kind of cap - ah kolpay - had no split fields. The felt cap is also worn by other peoples of Central Asia. Its appearance in Central Asia dates back to the 13th century.

"Zura, having thrown off her kurmo and rolled up the sleeves of her dress, is busy by the burning hearth."
K. Kaimov "Atay".

Curmeaux- sleeveless jacket, fitted, elongated, sometimes with short sleeves and a stand-up collar. It has become widespread throughout Kyrgyzstan, has several names and small differences - camisole (kamzur, kemzir), more common - chiptama.

"... Slowly he squatted down, sat like that in a fur coat and tight-knit malakhai, propping up the wall with his back and sobbing bitterly."
Ch. Aitmatov "Buranny Polistanok".

Malachai- a special type of headgear, a distinctive feature of which is a long head-piece that runs down the back, connected to elongated earpieces. It was made from fox fur, less often from the fur of a young ram or deer, and the top was covered with fabric.
A wide caftan without a belt was also called Malachai.

"... then he returned, put on his new chepken, took a kamcha from the wall and ..."
Ch. Aitmatov "Date with my son."

Chepken- upper quilted men's clothing such as a robe. In the north of Kyrgyzstan, it was sewn on a warm lining and with a deep smell. The craftswomen who made chepken were held in high esteem. Nowadays, this kind of clothing is worn by the elderly.

"The white fur tebetei lay behind him on the grass, and he simply sat in a black cloth cap."
T. Kasymbekov "Broken sword".

Tebetey- a widespread winter headdress, an indispensable part of the male Kyrgyz national costume. It has a flat four-wedge crown, and is sewn, as a rule, of velvet or cloth, trimmed most often with fox fur or marten, and in the Tien Shan regions - with black lamb fur.
Kyzyl tebetey is a red hat. It was worn on the head during the erection of the khanate. In the past, there was a custom: if a messenger was sent by the authorities, then his "visiting card" was the tebetey presented to them. The custom was so ingrained that in the first years after the revolution, a messenger brought tebetey with him.

"Throw her your chapan, I'll give you another, silk one."
V. Yan "Chinggis Khan".

Chapan- long clothes for men and women, such as a robe. It was considered indecent to leave the house without chapan. Chapan is sewn on cotton wool or camel wool with a chintz lining. In the old days, the lining was made from a mat - a cheap white or printed cotton fabric. From above, the chapan was covered with velvet, cloth, velveteen. Currently, only the elderly wear chapans.
There are several variants of this garment, caused by ethnic differences: nigut chapan - a wide tunic-like robe, sleeves with a gusset sewn in at right angles, kaptama chapan - loose cut, sewn-in sleeves with a rounded armhole, and straight and narrow chapan with side slits. The hem and sleeve are usually trimmed with a cord.

"He has rawhide chokoi on his feet ... Good God, worn out, crooked chokoi!"
T. Kasymbekov "Broken sword".

Chocoy- rawhide stocking shoes. It was cut from one piece. The upper part of the chokoi reached the knees or slightly below and was not sewn to the end, therefore, the chokoi were fastened with leather straps at the ankle. Previously, they were worn by shepherds and herdsmen. Now these shoes are not worn. Orus chokoi - felt boots. They were sewn from felt (felt), sometimes sheathed with leather for strength.

“She hastily got up from her place, on the move pulled out the cholpa from her pocket, threw it back and, clinking with silver coins, left the yurt.”
A. Tokombaev "Wounded Heart".

Cholpu- decoration for braids from pendants - silver coins attached to a triangular silver plate. This adornment was worn by women, especially those who lived in the area of ​​Lake Issyk-Kul, in the Chuy valley and in the Tien Shan. Now the cholpa is rarely worn.

“I was led into a white yurt. In the first half of it, where I stopped, on silk and plush pillows ... a plump woman in a large silk elechka sat importantly. "
M. Elebaev "Long Way".

Elechek- a female headdress in the form of a turban. In full, it consists of three parts: a cap with a brace was put on the head, on top of it was a small rectangular piece of fabric that covered the neck and was sewn under the chin; on top of everything - a turban of white matter.
In different tribal groups of Kyrgyzstan, the female turban had various forms - from simple wrapping to complex structures slightly reminiscent of the Russian horned kika.
In Kyrgyzstan, the turban has become widespread.
She was called crippled, but among the southern and northern Kirghiz - elechek. The same name was used by some groups of Kazakhs. For the first time, elechek was worn young, sending her to her husband's house, thereby emphasizing her transition to another age group. In the wedding wish to the young woman it was said: "Let your white elechek not fall off your head." It was a wish for long family happiness. Elechek was worn in winter and summer, without it it was not customary to leave the yurt even to fetch water. Only after the revolution did they stop wearing elechek and replace it with a headscarf.

Traditional Georgian clothing 8

"The prince was very much painted with an Arabian caftan and a brocade kaba of tiger color."

Kaba- long men's clothing, which was worn in eastern, partly southern Georgia in the XI-XII centuries by noble feudal lords and courtiers. The peculiarity of the kaba is long, almost to the floor, sleeves sewn down. These sleeves are decorative, they were thrown over the back. The top of the kaba along the cut on the chest, as well as the collar and sleeves, were trimmed with a black silk cord, from under which a bright blue edging protruded. Over the centuries, the kaba style has changed. In later times, the kabu was made shorter, below the knees - from silk, cloth, canvas, leather. Kabu was worn not only by the nobility. The female kaba - arhaluk - was up to the floor.

"The policeman brought a young man in a black Circassian coat to the square, searched him thoroughly and walked aside."
K. Lordkipanidze. "Gori story".

Cherkeska (chukhva) - outerwear for men of the peoples of the Caucasus. View of a swing caftan at the waist, with gathers and a cutout on the chest so that beshmet (arhaluk, volgach) is visible. Hook-and-eye closure. On the chest there are pockets for gasses, in which the gunpowder was kept. The sleeves are wide and long. They are worn curled up, but during dancing they are released to their full length.
Over time, gazyrs lost their meaning, they became purely decorative. They were made of expensive wood, bone, and decorated with gold and silver. The obligatory accessory of the Circassian is a dagger, as well as a narrow leather belt with applied plates and silver pendants.
Circassians were made from local cloth; cloth made of goat down was especially appreciated. In the second half of the 19th century, Circassians began to be sewn from imported factory material. The most common are black, brown, gray Circassians. The most expensive and elegant were and are considered white Circassians. Until 1917, the Circassian was the uniform of some combat arms. During the First World War, instead of Circassian and beshmet, a new type of clothing was introduced - becherakhovka (named after the tailor who invented it). This saved material. The strap had a closed chest with a collar, and instead of gazyrs, there were ordinary pockets. They girded the shirt with a Caucasian strap. Later they began to call it the Caucasian shirt. She was very popular in the 1920s and 1930s.

"Next to this inscription was carved the figure of a beardless young man dressed in a Georgian chokha."
K. Gamsakhurdia. The Right Hand of the Great Master.

Chokha (chokha)- monastic clothing in ancient Georgia. Subsequently, men's national dress. It was distributed throughout Georgia and had many options. These are loose-fitting clothes in the waist, of various lengths, they were worn on an arhaluk (beshmet). The chokha has a barrel strongly sloping towards the back. The side seam was emphasized with braid or soutache. In the front, pockets for gazers were sewn slightly obliquely. Behind the detachable back were the smallest byte folds or assemblies. Going to work, the front flaps of the chokhi were thrown behind the back under the belt. The narrow sleeve remained unstitched for about five fingers. A gap was left between the side panels and the wedges of the folds, which coincided with the pocket of the arhaluk.

"In one half there were dresses ... her muslin bedspreads, lechakas, bathing shirts, riding dresses."
K. Gamsakhurdia. "David the Builder".

Lechaki- a bedspread made of lightweight fabric. At first it had the shape of an irregular triangle. Along the edges, lechakas were trimmed with lace, leaving only the elongated end without them. Lechaks of elderly women and mourning ones were without lace trim. Modern bedspreads have a square shape.

"George was interested in the pheasant neck shadish."
K. Gamsakhurdia. The Right Hand of the Great Master.

Sheidishi- women's long pants, which were worn in the old days under a dress in Kakheti, Kartli, Imereti and other places. They were sewn from silk of different colors, but they preferred all kinds of shades of crimson. Sheidish, visible from under the dress, were richly embroidered with silk or gold thread with floral designs depicting animals. The lower edge was trimmed with gold or silver braid.

"... the girl put on an elegant cape - katibi, embroidered up and down with colored silk threads."
K. Lordkipanidze. Tsogi.

Katibi- vintage outerwear for women, knee-length velvet of various colors, lined with fur or silk and with fur trim at the edges. The main decorations are long sleeves that are not sewn for almost the entire length and decorative tapered buttons made of metal or covered with blue enamel. The front and back were sewn with detachable ones.
Katibi is also called a dressy vest.

1 Muller N. Barezh, stamed, kanifas // Science and Life, No. 5, 1974 Pp. 140-141.
2 Muller N. Adrienne, Bertha and Epanechka // Science and Life, No. 4, 1975 Pp. 154-156.
3 Muller N. Apash, almaviva, frock coat ... // Science and Life, No. 10, 1976 Pp. 131.
4 Muller N. Bekesha, dolman, frock coat ... // Science and Life, No. 8, 1977 Pp. 148-149.
5 Muller N. Hamash, leggings, carrick // Science and Life, No. 2, 1985 Pp. 142-143.
6 Muller N. Agraf, rengraves, modest, freepon // Science and Life, No. 10, 1985 Pp. 129-130.
7 Muller N. Beldemchi ... Kementai ... Elechek ... // Science and Life, No. 3, 1982 Pp. 137-139.
8 Muller N. Kaba, lechak, Circassian, Chokha // Science and Life, No. 3, 1989 Pp. 92-93.