Sew crinoline at home. Wardrobe Master class Graduation Sewing Crinoline for girls Fabric. Multilayer without rings
Illustrated sewing guide, master class
In order to create a ball gown, a lady's dress from another era (for example, a costume of a historical character), a fluffy dress of a princess, a maid of honor or a queen, you need a petticoat that gives the dress the necessary shape. This article will help you sew such a skirt yourself. The work will take time, but even a novice seamstress will cope with this task if he follows the instructions provided.
Before you start sewing, you need to decide what silhouette you want to recreate and what shape the petticoat should be.
1. Silhouette "with elbows".
In section, the skirt has an oval cross-section, at the sides it expands strongly, and looks flat in front and back.
2. Rococo silhouette.
In the section, the skirt has a round section; it looks equally magnificent in the front and in the back.
3. The silhouette of "neo-baroque".
From the front, the skirt looks wide, but not fluffy. In profile, it looks like a "chair".
4. Empire style silhouette.
Skirt extending downwards, the waistline is strongly high. An additional petticoat is not used for this dress.
To give skirts exquisite shapes in different centuries, women of fashion used special devices. Let's dwell on them in a little more detail. So:
Bustle(from fr. tournure- "posture, demeanor") - an element of clothing, a removable device in the form of a pillow, which was placed by the ladies behind the dress just below the waist. The bustle was tied to the waist with a ribbon.
(fr. panier- "basket") - a frame made of willow or metal rods, worn as a separate element under a dress, but over the lower (underside) skirt.
Figs(from him. Fischbein- "fish bone, whalebone") - the same as pannier, whalebone frame. This name was spread in Russia and Germany.
Crinoline (crinis + flax, hair + linen), - initially this was the name of a rigid linen or cotton fabric with a base of horse hair, then they began to call this a rigid structure necessary to give a skirt the required shape, similar to a pannier, but much more voluminous.
Now let's look at the methods of making these elements of the costume.
For work you will need: tulle or any other lightweight fabric, regilin, synthetic winterizer, cotton flap.
PANIER
Step 1.
Cut out the details of the skirt from tulle A and B... The shape of these parts is shown in the diagrams below, it is either a rectangle or a trapezoid. The skirt will be tight at the waist. The dotted line indicates the place where the gathering is performed. The dimensions of the parts depend on the desired length of the skirt (part height) and the desired splendor of the assemblies (part width).
Step 2.
Stitch regilin to the details of the skirt. The attachment points are shown in the diagrams. Regilin should end about two centimeters from the seams where the details are sewn, because it does not stick to the seam.
Step 3.
Sew the details together. Pull up the top of the skirt (at the waist), giving the skirt the desired shape.
Step 4.
Cut out a belt from cotton fabric, stitch it to the skirt. Insert an elastic band into the belt. The skirt should be firm enough to hold on to the waist. Pannier is ready!
Consider the pannier shapes used for the various silhouettes.
Pannier for the silhouette "with elbows".
Front and side views shown.
Detail A - rectangle. Two parts are cut out: front and back. Both hardly stick together.
Detail B - trapezoid. Two parts are cut out: on the left and right sides. Both of them squeeze tightly at the waist.
Pannier for the Rococo silhouette.
Side views and finished skirt are shown.
Detail A - rectangle. One detail is cut out. The skirt is sewn according to the "tatyanka" principle, while it is strongly pinched at the waist.
Pannier for the "neo-baroque" silhouette.
Shown in side view and finished skirt.
Detail A - rectangle. One piece is cut out for the front of the skirt.
Detail A is 1/4 the width of the skirt. She crumples up a lot.
Detail B - trapezoid. One detail is cut out: left side, back, right side.
Detail B is 3/4 the width of the skirt. The detail gathers heavily at the waist.
BUSTLE 
Step 1.
Cut out skirt details from any fabric A(1 pc.) And B(2 pcs.). The shape of these parts is shown in the diagrams, part A is a "slice", part B is a crescent or semi-oval.
Step 2.
Fold the details on the wrong sides. Stitch together, leave a small area uncovered in the seam. Unscrew the product.
Step 3.
Fill the bustle with padding polyester (or padding polyester, or any other filler). Sew up the open seam by hand.
Step 4.
Sew the ribbon (strings) to the product. The bustle is ready!
Let's take a look at the bustle shapes used for the various silhouettes.
Bustle for the silhouette "with elbows".
Shown is a side view, a front view, and a finished product view.
Detail A - a slice, its width is approximately 3 cm, the length is equal to half the waist circumference minus 2 cm.
Detail B - a crescent moon, its width is equal to half the girth of the waist, the height is from 10 to 15 cm, depending on your desire.
Two parts A and four parts B are cut out. Two bustles are sewn on the left and right sides. The tie is common.
Bustle for the Rococo silhouette.
Detail B - semi-oval, its width is 3/4 of the waist, the height is from 15 to 20 cm, depending on your desire.
Two parts B and one part A are cut out. One bustle with a tie is sewn.
Bustle for the "neo-baroque" silhouette.
Shown is a side view, a front view, and a finished product view.
Detail A - a slice, its width is approximately 3 cm, the length is 3/4 of the waist circumference minus 2 cm.
Detail B - a crescent, its width is 3/4 of the waist, the height is from 10 to 15 cm, depending on your desire.
Two parts B and one part A are cut out. One bustle is sewn with a tie.
CRINOLINE
Step 1.
Cut out a half-sun skirt from tulle (or 3/4 sun, but in this case, you will get a very voluminous skirt), depending on how fluffy you want to get a skirt. For more details on constructing a sun skirt pattern, see.
Step 2.
Mark the lines dividing the height of the hem of the skirt into 3 parts (in the picture, lines 1, 2 and 3). Regilin is sewn along these lines and ruffles are sewn on. If a very fluffy and tight skirt is required, additional lines must be drawn (dotted lines in the figure).
Step 3.
Sew the regilin along the marked lines, not reaching 2 cm to the cut.
Step 4.
From tulle or lining fabric, cut out rectangles of the desired length (depending on the splendor of the frill) and a width equal to the distance between the drawn lines on the skirt, multiplied by 2.
Step 5.
On the rectangle, draw a line two thirds of its height (see illustration) and stitch with a stitch width of 5 mm. Assemble. Fold along the stitch line.
Step 6.
Sew the frills to the skirt, overlapping so that the longer part of the frill is at the bottom. The illustration shows skirts with three and six ruffles.
Step 7.
Cut out a belt from cotton fabric, stitch it to the skirt. Insert an elastic band into the belt. The skirt should hold fairly tightly around the waist. Crinoline is ready!
Consider the crinoline shapes used for the various silhouettes.
Crinoline for the elbow silhouette.
Front view shown.
The frills are sewn in two tiers on the sides, taking up 1/4 of the width of the skirt on the right and 1/4 of the width of the skirt on the left.
Crinoline for the Rococo silhouette.
Front view shown, side view of crinoline looks exactly the same.
3 or 6 tiers of ruffles are sewn on, depending on desire.
Crinoline for the "neo-baroque" silhouette.
Side and front views shown.
Ruffles are sewn on at the back, taking up either 3/4 or 2/3 of the skirt width.
Thus, we looked at the possibility of creating silhouettes in three different ways. Making a bustle is the fastest and most economical. It is more difficult to make a pannier. Crinoline is the most time consuming and most costly option. Which option to use is up to you. In any case, we wish you success and joy of creativity!
Author of the text, drawings, schemes:
Regilin is a synthetic tape of different widths and rigidity. In most cases, there is a hard regilin - a narrow band for the bodice, which is inserted into the seams.
Hard regilin
There is also a soft regilin - ribbons from 1.5 to 10 cm wide. The colors are very diverse, there is even with lurex, but they are more often used in dance costumes or in children's ball gowns.
Wide regilin
This ribbon, woven from fibers of colored fishing line, is flexible and ductile and can be laid out in a straight or rounded cut. The tape can be ironed at a low temperature.
In stores, such a tape is also found under the name "crinoline".
Regilin is sewn in two ways: open and closed.
Depending on where the regilin is sewn and how much the bottom of the product should "stand", the method of sewing it is chosen.Let's look at examples of how to sew a regilin.
Example 1
Today, the model of a sundress and a top is very popular - a bodice with a frill.
This is what a frill looks like in soft tissues without regilin
So that the regilin is not visible when the ruffle moves, we sew it in a closed way.
Step 1
Cut out a frill with an allowance at the bottom = the width of the regilin tape + 1 cm. Regilin needs a narrow one, 1.5-2 cm is enough. Turn the cut of the frill on the wrong side by 0.5-1.0 cm, press it on.
Step 2
Tuck up the bottom of the frill again to the width of the regilin and press it on.
Step 3
Insert regular tape into the hem and stitch the hem 1 mm from the edge.
Regilin view
In variegated fabrics, the stitching will not be as noticeable. You can sew a blind stitch hem if the stitching is not desired.
Example 2
Regilin sewn in an open way along the bottom of the skirt
This is the most common way to sew a regiline to a skirt. In a long garment, it will not be visible, and in the frills along the bottom of the skirt (as in the photo), the regilin ribbon is selected by color.
Step 1
Apply regilin to the bottom of the part from the front side and stitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from the cut.
Step 2
Fold back the tape and press it on. The allowance will go around the edge of the tape.
Step 3
Stitch the second edge of the tape to the bottom of the skirt or frill. You can sew on the second edge with a blind stitch or a goat stitch. But this method is only suitable for thin fabrics and straight cuts.
How to sew a regilin if the skirt is sun, half-sun or dense fabric? Then the regilin tape is sewn like this:
Step 1
Sweep the bottom. Apply regilin tape from the front side and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the bottom edge. Regilin and lines in the pattern are contrasting for clarity. Regilin is also contrasting.
Step 2
Unfasten the tape to the wrong side and press it on. Sew the second edge of the regiline tape to the bottom or hem with or without a blind stitch.
Step 3
In purchased products, in order not to sew on the tape, it is glued onto a strip of glue (). The thinner the glue, the better.Consider a similar option using the example of a formband strip
A strip of adhesive 1-1.5 cm wide is stitched onto the second edge of the tape from the wrong side.
Then the bottom is ironed, the tape is glued along the bottom. A multifunctional ironing pad is possible.
It is almost invisible either from the face or from the inside.
Example 3
What to do to make the hemline on the bottom of the skirt less noticeable along the edge? Or so that the stitching stitch of the regilin is not visible from the front side? 
You can close the edge with the regilin with lace. But the processing looks more elegant when the regilin is closed from the seamy side too. In this case, it is hidden in a strip of lining.
How to properly sew a regilin to a skirt in this case?
Step 1
Cut out a strip from the lining with a width = double the width of the regilina + 2 cm of allowances. If the cut is straight, then the strip is also cut straight. If the edge is rounded, like the sun in a skirt, then a strip of lining is cut out obliquely. Silk or fine mesh can be used instead of lining. The mesh is suitable if the top of the dress is made of lace.
Step 2
Press the strip in half, insert it into the fold of the regilin and stitch the strip to the width of the regilin.
Step 3
Place right-sided lining on skirt cut and stitch exactly to the stitch on the lining strip.
Step 4
Trim the allowances to 0.5-0.7 cm and turn the strip to the wrong side. Press on and sew on with blind stitch. Neatly both from the face and from the inside!
This method is good for short, flared skirts.
Example 4
Regilin at the bottom of the skirt
In this dress, the bottom is curly, so the wrong side is visible. But the bottom is reinforced with a wide (10 cm) regilin tape. How to hide it? Regilin in this case is sewn between the top and the lining of the skirt.
Step 1
Cut out the lining exactly according to the pattern of the top of the skirt with the same allowances along the bottom. Lining the skirt face to face and stitching it down the bottom.
Step 2
Trim the allowances to 0.7 cm, apply a regilin to the allowances from the side of the skirt, not the lining! Otherwise, the allowances will run from the front side. Stitch the regilin 1 mm from the edge to the hem allowance.
Step 3
Unscrew the lining down and stitch it with a 1 mm allowance from the seam so that it does not turn to the right side and does not look out from below.
Step 4
Unscrew the lining on the wrong side of the dress and press it on with a transition piping along the bottom (this is the roll of the main part to the wrong side by 1-2 mm). After that, the lining of the skirt is sewn at the waist.
This method is also used in expensive dresses. This is the so-called haute couture treatment.
Example 5
The bottom of the skirt on the line
You can use fishing line instead of regilin. Then the bottom of the skirt will be "curly". The thicker the line and the flared the skirt, the steeper the curls at the hem edge will be.
The line is taken from 0.2 mm to 1 mm in diameter. Tune the fishing line in a small zigzag along the edge. To do this, the bottom is bent by 5-10 mm, a fishing line is put into the fold and sewn with a narrow dense zigzag. Then the excess allowance is cut off to the line. You can also use a rolled overlock seam, also putting line in the seam. The main thing is to stretch the cut of the fabric under the foot. The more you stretch the cut, the steeper the curl around the edge will be.
This is the wavy edge you get as a result. In the master class, the thinnest line was used: 0.2 mm.
In this way, the bottom of children's dance costumes and cut out obliquely, as in the photo, are processed. In the same way, you can make the edge of ruffles and flounces lush.
You can make the skirt fluffy with a petticoat. How? You will learn about this in the next master class.
Svetlana Khatskevich
Svetlana graduated from a university with a degree in sewing production engineer. He has been teaching sewing technology for over 20 years. He is a senior lecturer at the AcademyBurda ". We know Svetlana from her work on the site since its inception. She generously shares her knowledge and infects her with her love of sewing.Sewing is creativity, fun and educational. Welcome to this bright and interesting world!
This is the third part of the big prom. Follow the continuation in.
Crinoline from balloon sticks
After finding a suitable crinoline, we decided to make it ourselves, and only because we needed a very fluffy 5-ring skirt. As always, we don’t have what we want.
The crinoline itself is made of 6 wedges, the height of the wedge is 1 m, sewn strips of fabric with rings in 5 rows and 12 vertical stripes. I sewed rings on the inside, vertical stripes on the outside, making a pass at the intersection.
They did not want to use the wire, as the very heavy skirt just bends and it is necessary to dance. From everything that you can think of, we went over everything, it was necessary to be cheap, affordable and, moreover, very convenient. And then I caught sight of a balloon, my daughter gave it to me, but you couldn't throw it. Then it dawned on us: take a package of sticks and use, and so there were strips for 5 rings and 12 vertical ones. I scribbled everything exactly, sewed on a belt for an elastic band, prepared the sticks themselves and sat down to work.
The sticks are very good for cutting with simple wire cutters to get the right size to assemble the ring. We carefully cut the tips, remove the outlet itself, also remove the burr and get an excellent connecting nut. On the vertical strips, insert the sticks (connecting butt-end with a nut), cut off the excess and sew up the entrance. Now we just join the sticks end-to-end and push them along the ring. When we have gone completely in a circle, we bring it together and cut off the excess end, put on our nut and stretch the strips inside.
Crinoline turned out to be very light, bends, recovers and keeps its shape, even if it breaks, then repairs can be done quickly. The most important thing in a package of 100 pieces is the price of 40 rubles. I made a reserve for myself, I have the first dress, and after it the second will be.
Not always a ready-made crinoline for a wedding dress suits ... The reason in our case is simple: not a single salon wants to rent a lush crinoline (the so-called "turkey" is when the crinoline itself is on 5 rings and lush satin or silk is still sewn over the rings ruffles, which prevents the rings from showing through even in the event of a headwind ..) ... They give rent, and even free, but if you take a dress from them ... and so only a purchase, while the price of such a purchase is all pretty - a little cheaper than a dress ...
The usual crinoline, which we have since the time of beauty contests for our daughters, does not suit our bride: it is not lush enough, it is only three rings ..))) There is nothing to do - we will also sew ...)))
I collected everything that I found convenient and practical on this topic on the Internet, including notes from the comments ...))))
Here I liked the principle of sewing - it is conveniently described, understandable ... In addition, this principle of sewing can be taken into account when sewing any other model ...
Textile. Plain calico is best suited. Economical and very easy to use. Only it must first be washed in warm water, dried and ironed, because cotton gives a large shrinkage during washing. You can also use a grid if you want. It looks aesthetically pleasing, but it will cost you an order of magnitude more.
The size of the fabric will depend on the width and length of your crinoline. The wider the skirt, the greater the consumption of fabric. Approximately, for a fabric width of 150 cm, you will need three lengths of the garment. If we assume that the approximate length of the skirt is 1 m, then you will need 3 m of coarse calico or mesh.
The most painful question is what to make the frame from. At first glance, the wire is suitable for this business. But the petticoat will turn out to be heavy. In addition, the wire bends easily and is not able to recover its shape on its own.
The creative option is balloon sticks. These plastic straws are sold in packs of 100 with fasteners (a very important detail) and are unusually cheap - 40-60r per pack.
The crinoline will be sewn on the basis of the six-blade skirt pattern. To get all six pieces, you only need one piece pattern. The upper side of the wedge is 1/6 of your thighs, the length of the wedge is 1 m, the width is at your discretion (for example, 50-60 cm).
Wedges must be cut (do not forget to allow 1 cm seam allowances) and sewn together. Then 5 rows of strips of fabric across the skirt and 12 vertical stripes need to be stitched. Important: rings are sewn on the inside, and vertical ribs are on the outside. The most important thing is not to waste the intersection of the ribs and rings. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the frame later. Then sew on the elastic to hold the petticoat.
Now you need to make a rigid frame out of a simple skirt. To do this, carefully cut off the tips for the balls (remove the socket and the burr). You will have a real stick nut. On the vertical strips, insert the balloon sticks, connecting them with “nuts”, cut off the excess length and seal the entrance. Do the same with the rings.
As a result, you will have a lush and very light crinoline.
If the topic has already gone about inserts into the crinoline, how to make it both tough and comfortable, then here are the options I dug up:
If you live in a small town and you do not have a specialized store with fittings, then a lawn mower line can be used as a flexible frame, only without teeth, it is flexible and dense. Sew it on the edge of the petticoat. You can also use a plastic edging. It is used when sewing car covers.
The usual tulle net, only harsh + a hat tape (by the meter, it is mostly white, sold in almost all sewing stores in ACCESSORIES), can be replaced with packing twine (the market is full of boxes with goods, the market people simply throw it out when they open the goods) It is better to sew tulle with a seam to the dress, and not to the body ... it scratches very unpleasantly. Usually 3 tiers are made, the lower one from the floor is 20-25 cm, the upper tier is set on a wide elastic band, cm 4-5.
You need to take thin foam rubber, cut it into strips of about 10 cm, sew these strips along the length literally over the edge - you get such tubes. Make 4 rings of them, the two lower ones are the same, the 3rd is smaller, the 4th is even smaller. The first two should be approximately equal to the width of the skirt at the bottom. And you can connect these rings with strips of the same foam rubber, 4-6 pieces in height equal to the length of the skirt, you can connect it with a needle and thread. Thus, you form the frame so that it is more reliable, you can attach it to the lower tulle petticoat.
You can sew a regilin on the petticoat - you don't even need a drawstring - it looks neat and quite comfortable.
The easiest way: soak the skirt in saline solution for 2-3 hours (proportion of 1 kg of fine salt to 3-4 liters of water), then iron the damp product, only there should be no metal (like a button) on the clothes, otherwise rust will appear after simple action, the thing will become snow-white and will keep its shape very well
When a fluffy skirt is needed, a petticoat is made and sewn on it from top to bottom every 5 cm. Tulle (the harder it is, the more magnificent it is) .. The tulle was folded with bow and double bow folds, the lower edge of the tulle was sheathed with an oblique inlay ...
These are all possible options ...))))))
2. I prefer this type of crinoline more - it will be just like the notorious "turkey", especially if the petticoat itself and the frills are made of dense fabric, which stands on end well when gathering ... 
3.Well, such a petticoat is ideal in general for a wedding dress ... There are no rings here, only a magnificently gathered fabric ... 
This skirt is without rings made of wire, deadbolt, corset bones and other intricacies. It is lush due to the splendor of tulle frills. This type of skirt can be from three or more skirts ... and on each of the three, ruffles of hard tulle are sewn to the base of lining fabric, in two levels .. not so wide, just due to that tulle is folded or gathered, the required volume is created .. and around the circumference of the skirt is not wide.
These are the studies on the topic ...))))) It seems that everything is known, but just in case ...))))))
I collected everything that I found convenient and target = /
Crinoline is a capricious thing. But today we will learn how to sew a crinoline with our own hands and see a pattern for it.
1. We sketch ourselves on the sheet. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the height of the heel, then the exact height, as well as the maximum length of the side seam.
("length from waist to floor, without heels") In the drawing it is AC. Then we measure DC - these are those 5 centimeters, thanks to which the dress is not carried on the ground.
2. Then we draw the skirt of the shape that we want. Then we draw a straight line FD.
This is our full length petticoat. If you want the petticoat to be shorter than the top, then this must be taken into account and the full length of this petticoat should be made smaller. This drawing shows the full length of the BD petticoat. Now mark the segment ED. Here it is 5 cm. This is done so that in the future the hoop is not visible through the skirt.
3. Now mark the segment BG. The G-spot is the beginning of the expansion of our skirt.
The length of the segment BG depends on the model of the dress. Now divide the GE segment into 4 equal parts (since our skirt has 4 hoops) Draw horizontal lines from these points. These are the radii of our hoops.
For example one of them is HI. We measure them very accurately.
4. Now we substitute the data into the formula. L = 2 * 3.14 * R
L is the length of the hoop
* multiply it
R is our radius
And this is how we get the length of the hoops.
In the store, they cut hoops for me directly from this data.
Now we are making the skirt itself.
1. We measure the length of the skirt between the hoops (in the drawing it is 20 cm). And we cut out 4 strips of 20 cm wide from the lining fabric. + Allowances for seams, and a length corresponding to the length of the hoops + allowances for seams.
2. We measure the segment KG. We substitute in our formula and cut out from the material a rectangle with the width BG and the length obtained by the formula + allowances for seams and for inserting an elastic band.
3. Now we sew the parts, gathering the upper part of the strips to the length of the lower part of the next upper strip. We insert an elastic band on the belt, and also for "confidence" we sew two strings.
4. At the bottom of the 4 strips, sew on strips of fabric for inserting the hoops or sew on allowances and then you can insert the hoop into them.
5. Cut the rigid mesh with a strip width of + 5cm. The drawing turns out to be 25cm. It is done so that the mesh covers the hoop. Sew on the mesh at the top of each strip. Sew the length of the mesh so that it is 3 times longer than the strip, i.e. if the strip is 1 meter, then the length of the net is 3 meters.
And then we collect the mesh up to 1 meter and sew it to the strip.