Because there are many types of knitwear and each view has its own characteristics in the manufacture, consider the manufacture of a knitwear on the example of a liner knitwear.

In the manufacture of lounge knitwear, the following technological transitions are provided: quality control of raw materials, packaging of raw materials, knitting, preparing the canvas to clarity, racking flooring, cutting the web, picking critting parts, sewing knitwear, technical control.

Quality control of raw materials.Raw materials entered on the warehouse of a knitted enterprise are evaluated in appearance. Samples of raw materials are experiencing in the laboratory to determine physico-mechanical indicators. Methods of testing raw materials and types of its vices must comply with the current regulatory and technical documentation.

Farming of raw materials.After laboratory tests, the raw materials enters the workshops in boxes, boxes or other packages. At the workshop warehouse, raw materials are unpackled and packaged. Fastened raw materials are served to knitting machines. Bobbins with defective winding discovered during packaging are deposited.

Knitting canvas.Before knitting threads should be kept in places of storage at least 10 hours under normal climatic conditions. The canvas fit on the machines in accordance with the filling data. Knitting density is measured by car in the free state of the canvas. Slices of the canvas from the threads of one linear density fit the same mass (10-12 kg) with deviations not exceeding 5%.

The quality of the canvas in the process of knitting throughout the change controls the knitter and the assistant wizard. The knitter is obliged to contain the car in the purity of it for each other.

Preparation of the canvas to clarity.The knitted canvas after the decoration enters the field preparation departments to the discollity, in which they carry out: receiving the canvas and applied materials; Loading of the canvas, i.e. The canvas is viewed by car on both sides to determine its quality and detect vices; Storage (location) of the canvas; Selection of web articles and widths; picking cloths in the flooring; Preparation of the stencil; preparation of applied materials and issuing them in cutting; Calculation of the cutting card for each flooring.

The canvas in the preparation department serves partion, i.e. According to articles, colors and settlement widths. Parts selected for flooring are fed into the cutting shop along with the cutting card and the traffacete prepared.

Handling flooring.The winding of the upper layer of the flooring, or applying the contours of the decorated parts on the upper layer of the floor, is performed in two ways: on the patterns and stencil.

When driving on the lecaals on the upper layer of flooring in accordance with the sketching layout, lay down in such a way that the area of \u200b\u200bthe web was used most rationally.

When using the stencil, the decomposed patterns are driven by contours, which are then applied through holes. The stencil over a stencil is that the upper layer of the flooring is applied stencils and the holes of the contours of the lecked with a powder or talc.

Cutting the canvas.The cutting of the web is preceded by the operation of the flooring of the canvas and cut it into the section.

The fundamental canvas fill the rotor or bemp. Flooding the bemp is used with portrait products in small batches. Flooding The rotor provides more economical use of the canvas compared with the bending laying due to the rational arrangement of lecop products on the large width of the canvas; In addition, the method facilitates the control of the canvas.

The flooring is performed using the machine and manually. Flooring the canvas is cut by mobile cutting machines with straight and disk knives and stationary tape machines.

In the process of this operation, the following requirements must be completed:

b fabric fabrics in the flooring should be located freely, without tension and distortion, but also without slack and wrinkles, otherwise the details of the cut can be deformed;

the drawing in all the flooring of the flooring should coincide in length and width, otherwise the symmetry of the pattern is disturbed in the finished product;

b The direction of the pile in all canvases of the flooring should coincide so that in all parts of the finished product, the pile is directed in one direction.

Cutting the canvas is a complex and responsible operation. To ensure high quality cutting when cutting the flooring, it is possible only if the following requirements are fulfilled:

b high accuracy cut: the deviation from the contours of the parts should not exceed cm;

b contours of parts should not be overwhelmed;

b good quality cut, i.e. the frequency of the edges of the cut parts.

Circus quality control is made according to control patterns by combining with them out of flooring. Usually check the upper, lower and one or two parts from the middle of the pack.

Working critting details.Corrected parts after control and sorting are completed in packs. At the same time, they are browsing, disassembled in colors and shades, cut in those places where they cannot be cut by machines in the flooring, correct the inaccuracies of the mechanical cutting.

The final product of the cutting workshop is the kit, i.e. A pack of parts selected by the articula of the canvas, color, shade and pattern.

Completed packs are stacked in such a way that all small parts of products and applied materials are assembled in dozens and neatly tied. Putchi are sent to sewing units.

Sewing knitwear.Sewing processes cover a whole range of operations, which are mainly divided into the following: sewing, humid-thermal and auxiliary.

Sewing operations include not only operations on the connection of product parts by line to give them a certain shape provided by the design, but also operations on the coincidence of loops, sewing buttons, adjusting braid and lace, embroidery, etc.

Sewing operations are performed on sewing machines of various types.

In the sewing shops of lounges, such an organization system is used as a stream. It is characterized by the following main features:

b The technological process of production of products is divided into separate technologically indivisible operations performed if necessary on various equipment;

b for each performer enshrines the so-called organizational operation, which includes one or more technologically indivisible operations;

b workplaces and equipment are located in the process of the process of sewing the product;

the processed product or package of products is transmitted to each subsequent operation after the end of this operation;

operations are performed synchronously on all workplaces of flow in accordance with the installed rhythm of the movement of products.

The flow system of the organization, depending on the degree of rhythm of work, in turn, is divided into intermittent-flow and continuous-flow.

With a discontinuous-flow system, the product is followed from one workplace to another as several products are handling performers; The tape of the sewing conveyor serves only for the delivery of products from one workplace to another or not applied at all.

With continuous-streaming system, each product enters the subsequent operation immediately at the end of the previous one; The speed of the tape is linked to the duration of operations at each workplace, and the tape itself serves not only for the delivery of products from one workplace to another, but also to maintain the single rhythm of the entire conveyor process.

Wet-thermal treatment of linen products is performed using presses, steam-air dummies, as well as irons. It includes such operations as: Rangery (seam allowances are smoothed into two sides) and rooting (seam allowances are boosted on one side), sipping (surface treatment of the product of the ferry to remove shiny fabric sites), ironing.

One of the requirements for the manufacture of clothes is, accuracy and high quality wet-thermal processing, guaranteeing the absence of wrinkles, chances and opals products.

Auxiliary operations include sewing of labels, sorting products, cleaning of finished products from ends of threads, as well as packaging of products.

Technical control.It is performed on all technological transitions in the manufacture of products from the canvas and coupons. Tasks for technical monitoring - checking for the compliance of raw materials and materials entering the enterprise, indicators of existing standards and technical conditions, testing the quality of technological operations and quality of the canvas and coupons in the production process.

Knitwear is a web-based knitting consuming on the appropriate type of equipment and is a material consisting of loops connected longitudinally and transversely among themselves. (i.e. these are two systems of threads located perpendicular to each other and forming loops)
As in the weaving production, longitudinal threads are called the basis, and transverse - dodge. The loop shape affects the terminal result in the manufacture of a knitwear, forms are four types:
1. Round, 2. Extended, 3. Wide, 4. Sign.

The loops are also divided into three types depending on their heights:
1. Reduced, 2. Normal, 3. Enlarged.

The properties of the knitwear depend on the looping columns and the transit rows of the path-forming.

Knitwear is divided into 2 main groups of the fundamental and cooled and 2 additional smooth and obedient. In the underlying, each thread forms in the loop row on the same loop and goes into the next row. In the couch knitwear, each thread consistently forms a loop of one loop row. For the formation of a loop row of a fundamental knitwear, how many loops and in the loop row are required. To form one loop row of a hubbital, one thread is sufficient that the process of production of knitwear should be cheaper, it is possible to read the equipment for the production of various types of knitwear. Depending on the type of equipment (knitted equipment with one and two needles), knitwear varies: single and double, respectively.

According to the classification proposed in GOST in the USSR, all knitted interlocks are divided into main (weaves that have the simplest structure) and derivatives (a combination of several identical main weaves, mutually entered into such a looping columns of one of the same weave). On the basis of each of the classes of these groups, there can be a pattern and combined interlacing (weave, which consist of interlacing several classes).

To obtain fabric, in the simplest case, two thread systems are required. Knitwear can be completely connected from one thread. As well as knitwear can be manufactured in the following ways:
1. Cutting, 2. Poltern regulatory, 3. Regular

Cutting method It is that the knitted canvas is cut off, the details of the patterns on the patterns are cut out of it and connect them on the sewing machine, giving the products the necessary form. By this method, linen and upper products are manufactured, as well as most of the gloves. For this method of manufacturing products, significant wastes of knitted canvases are characterized, reaching 18-23% with labeling products and up to 20-25% with upper products (clothing). This production technology is used for the mass production of inexpensive knitwear. Positive for this method is the possibility of manufacturing products for a variety of models and high performance of knitting machines.

Semi-regulatory way It differs from the cutting fact that the knitted fabric fit on a circulitory machine in the form of coupon coupons. Coupons are separated from each other using a separation looping series so that the lower edge of the coupon has a one-piece unpacable looping series that does not require processing on sewing equipment. Expenses for a knitted web when calculating one knitted product with a large-ground production method by 5-8% less than when cutting. Savings achieved due to the lack of side seams and allowances for the nims of knitting products and reduce time on the production of one product. The semi-major method is most common in the manufacture of upper knitwear, and can also be used for the manufacture of linen. Products made in this way have a big advantage in achieving the best fit and fit the product.

Regular way Production of the product is shitted in the fact that the products fit entirely without seams or the individual details knit along the contour and later stitched with a chain stitch. It is characteristic of this method is the most economical use of raw materials. However, knitting products of the product requires large labor costs or the purchase of expensive equipment than knitting with a semoregular way. Such a method of knitting can excounded itself only when working with expensive materials in the manufacture of elite clothing. Regular and semi-regular methods are most in demand in exclusive and small-scale production, since it is possible to achieve high quality products, the maximum range of products and the fast changeability of models with minimal consumption of material.

The work contains: 25 pages, 3 tables, 1 block diagram.

Keywords: technological process, thread, canvas, knitting, cutting, detail, sewing, product, quality.

The purpose of the work is to study the main processes carried out in the process of knitted production.

The technology of knitting products was studied and described. The equipment used in the process of manufacturing products is also given, and the basic requirements for the quality of finished products are noted.

Introduction 3.

1. A description of the theoretical foundations of the technological process of manufacturing knitwear. four

2.Sill used in the production process.

Requirements for its quality. 6.

3. Technology of knitting products. 10

4. Communication of equipment used in the process

production of knitwear. fifteen

4.1. Equipment used in the process

knitting canvas. fifteen

4.2. Equipment used in the process

sewing products. sixteen

4.3. Auxiliary equipment. 17.

5. Requirements for the quality of the finished

products and methods of its control. eighteen

6. Standards for acceptance rules, testing, storage

and operation of goods. 21.

Conclusion. 24.

List of used literature. 25.

Introduction

For the production of clothing, various materials are used, which are divided into the main components of the vertex and lining details; Applications used to create a frame, tight form, strengthen parts; heat insulating; connective; Fittings and finishing.

Fabrics, knitted canvases, outbound, film and layered materials of various fibrous composition and structure, artificial fur and leather are used as the main materials. Industry manufactures basic clothes and knitted cloths. According to the raw material composition, they are divided into cotton, woolen, silk, linen, by appointment - on the palp, costume, dresses, porch, linen and lining. To appearance, hygienic properties of these materials, resistance to various impacts are presented with various requirements. Thus, the materials used for the vertex of the coat must have a beautiful appearance, sufficient resistance to abrasive and faming loads; Lining- good resistance to abrasion, hygroscopicity, vapor and airtightness.

Knitted products include products obtained from threads (yarn) by machine or manual knitting.

Some knitted products are fully knitting on cars (stockings, socks, scarves, mittens, etc.), the tellers, most of the upper knitwear, gloves are sewed from the manufactured (associated) on the knitted web machines.

For the purpose of the products produced, the knitted industry is divided into the following types of industries: upper and linen knitwear, hosiery, glove, technical fabric and medical products.

A knitwear characterizes a large extensibility and plasticity, which makes it possible to achieve the feeling of lightness and comfort.

1. Description of the theoretical foundations of the technological process of manufacturing knitwear.

The knitwear is called a textile web or a product obtained by knitting, so any knitted material is a loop system connected in longitudinal and transverse directions.

Knitted fabric consists of two perpendicularly intersecting thread systems. Longitudinal threads are called the basis, and cross-dodge. The primary element of the knitwear structure is the loop. It is a spatial curve, the form of which affects the properties of the canvas. The shape of the loop is diverse: rounded, wide, narrowed, elongated.

The height differences the loops of normal magnitude, reduced and enlarged. The higher the loop and more straightened the thread, the lighter it seems the canvas as a result of the directional reflection of the light.

The loops, connecting with each other horizontally, form looping rows, vertically looped columns. The distance between the centers or the same points of two adjacent loops along the loop row is called a loop step.

Knitwear is divided into fundamental and coolers. In the underlying, each thread forms in the loop row on the same loop and goes into the next row. In the couch knitwear, each thread consistently forms a loop of one loop row. For the formation of a single looper of a hubby knitwear, one thread is sufficient. For the formation of a looping series of fundamental knitwear, as a rule, as many threads, how many loops in the loop row are required.

The cooled and fundamental knitwear can be both single and double. Single knitwear is produced on machines with one needleer, and double knitwear-on machines with two needles.

According to the classification, all knitted interlocks are divided into the main (weaves having a simplest structure) and derivatives (a combination of several identical main intertwines, mutually enlisted so that the looping columns of the same weave) are placed between the looping columns of one weave). On the basis of each of the classes of these groups, there can be a pattern and combined interlacing (weave, which consist of interlacing several classes).

To obtain the fabric, in the simplest case, two thread systems are needed (base and ducks). Knitwear can be completely connected from one thread. As well as knitwear can be manufactured in the following ways:

· Cutting

· Poluregular

· Regular

The cutting method is that the knitted canvas is cut off, i.e. Details of items on the patterns are cut out of it and connect them on the sewing machine, giving the products the necessary form. By this method, linen and upper products are manufactured, as well as most of the gloves. For this method of manufacturing products, significant wastes of knitted canvases are characterized, reaching 18-23% with labeling products and up to 25-28% with upper products. Such technology is used for low-cost products in mass production and liner knitwear. Positive for this method is the possibility of manufacturing products for a variety of models and high performance of knitting machines.

The semi-regulatory method differs from the previous one that the knitted cloth fit on a circulitory machine in the form of coupon coupons. Coupons are separated from each other using a separation looping series so that the lower edge of the coupon has a one-piece unprecedented looping series that does not require sewing processing. The consumption of knitted canvas on the product under a semi-regulatory manufacturer of 3-5% is less than when cutting methods due to the lack of side seams and feeding of the nose of the product; In addition, less and time on cutting and sewing processing by 8-10%.

The semi-regulatory method is most common in the manufacture of upper knitted products, and can also be used for the manufacture of lingerie in the presence of the necessary knitting equipment. Products made in this way have a big advantage in achieving the best fit and fit the product.

A regular method of manufacturing a product is that the products are unscrewed entirely without seams or individual parts knit along the contour, and then stitched with a chain stitch. It is characteristic of this method is the most economical use of raw materials. However, the knitting of the product details requires large labor costs than knitting with a semoregular way. This method is used when knitting upper products from expensive material.

The last two technologies are most applicable in exclusive petrogenous production, because it is possible to achieve high quality products, the maximum range of products and the quick changeability of models.

2.Sill used in the production process. Requirements for its quality.

Raw materials is one of the main factors forming the quality of knitwear. Currently, knitted enterprises processes almost all types and varieties of fibers and threads obtained from them.

Threads consist of short or long elementary fibers of different nature. They are divided into the transverse direction to the components of their particles by spinning.

According to the applied raw materials, knitted canvases and products are divided into three groups:

· From the yarn are threads consisting of short fibers formed by twist;

· Of the threads consisting, as a rule, from long monofilament and having a different twist;

· Of the various combinations of yarn and threads.

Currently, in knit production, all types of raw materials are recycled, including yarn from natural silk products and flax fibers in a mixture mixture; Apply the threads of various thickness and the degree of twist. Basically use yarn and threads of mixed fibrous composition, which ensures good hygiene properties of beans, smaller shrinkage and fermentation, good wear resistance.

The linen canvases are mainly made of cotton, cotton, cotton, cotton, cotton-free yarn, as well as from viscose, acetate and polyamide complex threads. Some parts of the canvases are produced from a half-walled and real-willed yarn. The cloths for the upper knitwear are made of all types of raw materials; Hosiery products are mainly of polyamide threads, cotton and half-walled yarn.

Depending on the purpose of the canvases, the threads of different structures are selected: yarn of various ways to spinning and degrees of twist, complex threads from chemical raw materials, textured threads, and in different combinations - twisted yarn with complex threads, textured threads - with yarn etc.

Basics of knitted production

Knitwear These are products or canvases obtained from one thread or yields by forming loops and their mutual weave. The main elements of knitwear are loops, outlinesand broachThe combination of elements of the loop structure constituting the continuous elementary series, and the alternation of these rows create weave.Loops located in one row but the width of knitwear form horizontal looping rowand the loops, driven by one on the other vertical, - vertical looping column. Weave knitwear along with threads used for its manufacture, is an essential qualitative characteristic and determines the appearance and properties of knitwear: extensibility, impactability, surface density, thickness, form reduction, etc. Applying various interlacing, you can get knitwear with different properties, patterned or structural effects. The knitwear is characterized by a large variety of weave, which are divided into the following classes: the main, derivatives, pattern and combined. TO chief classrelated interlacing consisting of identical elements of the structure (loops). The main weaves form a smooth and uniform knitwear surface. TO class of derivativesan interlacing, formed from a combination of several main, mutually entered into such a way that the looping columns of the other or several of the same intertwines are placed between the looping columns. The derivatives of the weave, as well as the main, form knitwear with a smooth uniform surface, but in contrast to them have less extensibility and greater tensile strength. TO class of drawingrelated interlacing formed on the basis of the main or derivatives by introducing additional elements in them (sketches, broke, additional threads) or changes in the production processes that allow you to get knitwear with new properties. TO class combinedrelated interlacing in which the signs of various main, derivatives or patterns are combined. The number of combined weave knitwear is unlimited. Depending on the combination of weavers of different classes, the knitwear of simple combination, derived combined, pattern and complex combination interlacing is distinguished. When working out knitwear with combined weaves by various combination of structural elements, a variety of figure effects can be obtained: color, shade, relief, pile, etc. Depending on the method of forming a knitwear for the weave of each class, they are divided into transverse-knitted (coulinary) and fundamental (longitudinal). IN kulirny Drikotage looping row is formed by a consistent bending of one thread, and in fundamentaldriking simultaneously laying on the needle and bending a whole system parallel to the threads. In terms of the number of looped layers, cross-rented and fundamental knitwear is divided into two types: a single (single-stroke) and double (two-pointer). Singleknitwear produced on machines with one needleer singlephone, doubleknitwear - on machines with two needles - twofore. In some cases, single knitwear can be obtained on biforous machines, subject to the use of one needle. Double knitwear can be one-cell, twolytsevand two-naocked. In addition to class, weave can be characterized by a rapport. Rapport Weave- This is the smallest number of looped rows (rapport but height) or looping columns (Rapport but width), after which the order of alternation of loops, sketches or broaching in the interweaving is repeated. Knitted products are produced in various ways: regular, semi-regular, cutting and combined. Regularthey call a method in which a shaft or part is obtained on specialized machines that do not require subcalling when they are connected into the product. For floor regularthe method of the product is obtained from a tubular or flat coupon, the width and length of which are equal to the corresponding size of the product. Coupons ride in a knitwear with a solid ribbon, after which one from another but separating row is separated specially enhancing separation thread. The lower edge of the coupon does not dissolve and does not require sewing processing. Coupons are cutting along the lines of the armor, the neck and open sleeves. Cuttingthe method is that the canvas obtained on knitted matine is coloring like tissues, i.e. Flat items are cut out of the cloth, but the contour, which is then connected by the seams, giving the products the necessary form. For combinedthe method of various parts of the product are made regular (semi-regular) and cutting methods.

General information about knitting machines. There are many types of knitwear machines. In accordance with the constructive classification, knitting machines are divided into five groups: stocking machines (cha);

Chublightering machines (CT);

Flatbed machines (PV);

Cotton cars (km);

Basic machines (s).

The first three groups of these classifications in most cases have movable relative to their bed (needle, which is called the needle phonet, and the fourth group (cotton cars) are movable courses and distribution platinum. Only a group of fundamental machines is available exclusively with needles fixed on the needleer. For machines with needles, movable relative to the needle, characterized by sequential penetration of loops with separate needles. If the needles relative to the needle are still, then in the case of a flat needle, the switching will be carried out simultaneously on all the needle, and in the case of a round needle, which has a cylinder type, is sequentially each needle. Each group of machines are divided into types according to the following signs:

In the number of needles - single-component or two-renofores;

According to the method of knitting - cross-knitting (coulinary) or fundamental;

According to the applied needles used - with hook, tongue, engine and special needles;

By type of products produced - in accordance with the technological purpose of the machine.

IN two-enemybreaking machines and round-mounted phonets can be placed horizontally and vertically. The horizontal phonon is performed as a disk 1, and the vertical - as a cylinder 2 (Fig. 1, but).The circular grinding machine can have both phonets vertical, in the form of cylinders

IN flatzalmachines of phonets usually tip each other at an angle of 100 ° (Fig. 1, c), which is associated with the conditions of laying the thread on the needle. But the flatbed machines are known, where the phones are located vertical horizontally and at an angle of 90 ° to each other (Fig. 1, d). IN reverseflat-knitting machines Both phones are horizontally (Fig. 1, e)or at an angle of 130 ° in the vertical plane (Fig. 1, e).Finally B. two-phoned fundamentalmachines, where both fontones are moving, as they move along with the needles, they have vertically (Fig. 1, g).

Fig. one.The location of the needles in the two-renovation machines: A - location and types of phonets in the car; b - a circulitory machine; B is a flat-sided machine with an inclined location of phtosters; g.- a flat-colored car with a horizontal and vertical location of the phtos; d.- a circulating flatbed machine with a horizontal arrangement of phonets; e is a reveling flatbed machine with a vertical location of phtosets; f - base machine; 1 - disk; 2 - cylinder.

Cross-knitting(coulinary) machines are characterized by the production of knitwear, in which the horizontally located loops are formed in series and the same thread (Fig. 2, but). Basicmachines differ from cross-knitting driking production with a vertical or diagonal location of the loops (Fig. 2, b)formed from the same thread. In this case, the number of threads refilled in the machine depends on the number of working needles.

b.
Fig. 2.Knittage loops structure:

but- Hollard, B - fundamental

In addition to the constructive above features, knitwear for technological features are divided into three groups: breaking, beltand top knitwear.For these features, knitted factories specialize.

Production of linen knitwear. Close-up manufacturing on knitted factories consists of the following technological processes: knitting of linen knitwear, dyeing and finishes of the canvases, sewing products.

Knitting clothes knitted websit is carried out on the chickens and base machines. In addition to obtaining linen products from the canvas, a semi-major method of manufacturing women's laundry in the circular shape has been widely used widely used. The manufacture of female linen in the form of coupons is much more economical, since the waste during the depth and decreases the number of sewing operations. In addition, coupon linen is better than the crp, fits the figure and has a beautiful appearance. However, the manufacture of cruise linen from the canvas is widely applied, as it is universally for all types and sizes of linen. Knitted linen for linen is produced from cotton, cotton, cotton, cotton and woolen yarn and artificial and synthetic threads - smooth and textured. For the lounge assortment, the cloths of the main, derivatives and patterns and patterns are widely used. The canvases obtained on the chicapotry machines have a tube shape, in this form they are left to pass the canvas, made on the base machines, have a flat form. Since these canvases are strongly twisted at the edges, then in front of the finishing operations they are stitched along the edges, giving them a round shape. The cloths associated with knitwear are sorted and marked. The labeling of the canvas is made from two sides of each piece and can be performed by stamps, pencil with paint or embroidery.

Dyeing and finishing of cloths.The lounge knitted canvas is subject to a complex of wet and mixed treatments to give it the corresponding mechanical, consumer properties and a beautiful appearance. The trimming of knitted canvas usually consists of the following operations:

boilingor misching(washing) to remove siblings from fibers, pollution and natural impurities and increase the ability of fibers to absorb dyes;

whiteningand dyeto give the canvas of a certain color;

apprementto impart the canvas of properties that improve the quality of products made from it;

dehydration (spin), disgumentsand drying;

strengtheningand decateto impart a cloth of stable sizes, a soft grid and correcting the deformations of its loop structure;

dumbleedready canvas to determine its quality.

Round knitted canvas from synthetic threads after drying are subjected thermophilization (stabilization)to give them insignibility, the stability of the form and sizes. Separate types of linen baseballs from chemical threads after drying are exposed tisintfor formation on their surface of relief pattern or pleated. Tailoring of linen productsfrom the knitted canvas is carried out in the cutting and sewing shops of knitted factories. This process is an independent technological cycle in the overall technology of recycling yarn and threads into knitwear, which includes the cutting of the web and sewing products. Cutting the webit is performed in the flooring, which is performed by flooring machines. The height of the flooring depends on the type of web and its thickness and is limited to the size of the working bodies of cutting machines. The flooring is cut by manually mobile cutting machines with straight and disk knives and stationary tape machines. Outline details after control and sorting are equipped in packs for articles of the canvas, color, shade and drawing. To ensure completeness, the corresponding applied materials are selected to the package of product details. Sewing productsincludes a whole range of operations that are divided into sewing, wet-thermal and auxiliary. Sewing operations are performed on sewing machines of various types. These include not only the operations of the combination of product parts with lines to give them a certain shape, but also cohesing loops, sewing buttons, adjusting braid and lace, edge finish, embroidery, etc. Wet-thermal processing of linen products (smoothing of seams, giving shape) is made with the help of presses, molding machines, pair-air mannequins, as well as irons. Auxiliary operations include sewing labels, product sorting, cleaning finished products from ends of threads, as well as packaging of finished products.

Production of upper knitwear.For the production of upper knitwear, a wool, semi-wool, bulk, polyacrylonitrile yarn is used, as well as high-volume threads - Elastic Corrugations, Maard, Mainelan, and others. Upper knitwear are obtained by three main ways: cutting, semi-motor and regular.

Cutting methodmade a significant proportion of the upper knitwear. Despite significant waste with strollers (20 -25%) and high working hours when sewing, this method is universal for all types of products. The process of production of velides from the cloth of the upper knitted products includes the following steps: knitting, canvas trim, tailoring products. Knittingit is produced mainly on various types of single and two-renofore chicaping machines. The canvases are made by the various interlacing (main, derivatives, patterns and combined) from yarn and threads, which are usually pre-painted. Trim canvasthe resulting from the painted threads consists of the following operations: Washing the web, spin, disorder and calendering (smoothing). Sewing of the upper knitwearincludes operations similar to those performed in obtaining linen products.

For salumgular methodproducts are obtained as previously noted, from tubular or flat coupons. The advantage of the production of products by this method is the reduced percentage of waste with stronger (on coupon products - 17-20%, and but the products from the parts are 8-12%). The process of the production of upper knitted products with a semoregular method includes knitting, wet-thermal processing and subcall coupons, connection of parts (tailoring of products) and wet-thermal processing of products. Knitting couponsthe tubular shape is made on the chip-rooted coupon machines, and flat on flat-scale machines. Like the canvas, coupons are produced by a variety of weave of pre-painted threads. Wet-thermal processing of couponsit is performed on ironing presses in order to bring the smoothness and stability of the form before entering the items. For crawn couponsapply the same equipment as in the production of linen products. Before subcast, the coupons are pre-equipped in packs in accordance with the sizes. Connection of partsthe product produces special sewing and looping machines. Wet-thermal processing of productsit is carried out with the help of ironing presses, molding machines and steady mannequins.

For regular methodupper knitwear are made of parts that acquire the form directly in the knitting process. These details practically do not require subcall. The production of regular products is most economical, since the percentage of raw material waste when using this method does not exceed 3-5%. The process of production of upper knitted products by regular way includes the same operations as semi-regular. Only knitting product details is carried out on single and two-refluidine cotton machines of low class. Regular and semi-major methods of manufacturing upper knitted products due to their economy are progressive. As the automation of knitwear increases, regular and semi-major methods of manufacturing products will be replaced by cutting.

Production of hosiery products. According to the method of manufacturing, hosiery products are divided into round (without seam), flat (with seam) and cries. Roundhosiery products are manufactured on round machines; flatproduced in the form of a predetermined contour on cotton machines, after which the canvas are sewn and subjected to finishing operations; krohenymade from the base cloth, which is cut, stitched and exposed to collapse and finish. Currently, the knitted industry produces hosiery products mainly on stocking machines, which, due to the high degree of automation, have high performance. The assortment of hosiery products includes women's and children's stockings; Men's socks, female and children; Oblits for men, female and children; Women's and children's tights. For the production of hosiery products, the most diverse raw materials are used, the choice of which depends on the purpose and type of products produced. The most widely used cotton, cotton-plated, woolen, mixed (semi-wool) yarn, kapron thread (smooth and textured elastic type), artificial threads, bulk yarn (both in pure form and in various combinations). The sequence of production process and the number of technological operations depend on the method of knitting hosiery products and species of the used raw materials. The general scheme for the production of solo-knitted products consists of the following operations: knitting, sealing of a cauldron, dyeing and finishing, sorting, marking and packaging. Knittingall-knitted products are carried out on the stocking machines with a regular way. There are single and dudchfood stockings, in addition, they are divided into the appointment and type of recyclable raw materials. For the development of women's stockings from synthetic threads, single-componic high-class bulls are used. There are two main ways to knit seamless stocking: classic, in which the heel and thoughts are confused in the form of pockets with a reversing movement of the needle cylinder, and tubular knitting, in which all stocking fit in the form of a tube of thermoplastic synthetic threads. The necessary form of the product is attached at the stage of finishing operations by forming on a metal form in the process of heat treatment. The recovery of the heel and the myster requires considerable time. In addition, the sealing of the Misk is connected with the use of labor-intensive boiler operations, which requires highly qualified personnel. The invention of the tubular method of knitting made it possible to increase the performance of the machine by installing a larger number of loop-forming systems on it. All modern automata operate on the principle of tubular knitting without reversing rotation of the needle cylinder. Many of them allow to produce stockings with closed in the process of knitting Cape Kom. Many system machines embedded on the last models. More advanced methods for the production of false heel allowed tubular stockings equivalent to the quality of stockings made by a classic way. Children's stockings are produced from cotton yarn on two-reinforced (two-cylinder) automata with a classic way of knitting. For the manufacture of socks, single and two-renofine jacquard machines are used, allowing multicolor and relief drawings in the process of knitting. Knitting method is classic. Sealing Majaperform either on the kettle machines or crosslinking on overlock machines. In the process dyeing and finishesproducts are painted, smoothed, obtain a given form. The loop structure is aligned. Currently, an integrated finishing aggregates are used to dye and finishing the hosiery products (mainly from synthetic threads), which provides for carrying out stabilization operations, dye and drying products that are mastered on the shape on the same machine. Products from natural painted threads are subjected to only soaking in the drums, annealing and molding, and from pathetic painted threads - stabilization and molding. Sorting, marking and packagingare concluding operations of the technological process of the production of hosiery products. Sorting stocking executes the controller OTV. Each stocking he browsing on the table in the massacled form and determines the though. At the end of sorting, the product is selected in Nara. The stockings selected in Nara come to the operation of fastening them with the simultaneous sewing of labels, after which they are packaged in packages. Packaging is performed on machines or manually.

Knitted products include clothing made of knitted canvas or knitting threads. The main methods of production of knitwear include: cutting, semi-regulatory, regular and shaft.

Cutting methodit consists in the encrypiece of a flat knitted cloth on flat-scale machines or tubular - on the roundabouts, from which parts of a certain size and configuration according to the model are cut (like cutting products from the fabric). The advantage of the method is that models of any complexity can be obtained, disadvantage - waste with up to 18-25% knitted web.

Semi-regulatory wayit involves the manufacture of products from the coupon knitted canvas with a tubular or flat shape obtained from flat and round-knife machines.

The width of the coupon is equal to the width of the part, or the part is stacked an integer in the coupon (Fig. 14).

Figure 14. Form of coupons and parts for the manufacture of knitted products semi-regulatory way

Coupons in the canvas are separated from each other by separating looping nearby. Dimensions of the coupon are determined by the overall dimensions of the parts of the product, and its lower edge does not dissolve and does not require sewing processing. Details of knitted products obtained by a semoregulation method have a form close to lekali, and require additional submissions along the throat lines, armies and fades. They are connected in the product on the stage-raised looping machine.

Regular waya knitted product is obtained using the removal means of the details with the finished contourstructive lines. Details are completely confused on specialized machines or automata (Fig. 15).

Figure 15. Details for the manufacture of knitted products with regular way

The lower edge, as a rule, is earned at the beginning of knitting, and the remaining contours are formed by changing the number of needles, i.e., the loop and loop increases in the process of touching. Details do not require additional cutting operations and are connected without getting edges on the sewing machines of the chain stitch.

A regular method is obtained by small parts (pockets, collars, valves, faces, belts, etc.) used in the manufacture of crirh knitwear.

Regular and semi-regular products have important advantages over the velocity, they are more economical and reduced or simplify the processing and sewing technological process (for example, due to the absence of side seams). However, at present, up to 60% of knitwear are produced by a criter. This is explained by the relative ease of their manufacture, as well as the possibility of expanding the range by designing products of an unlimited large number of models of a wide variety of forms.

Recently, new technologies for obtaining knitting products appear.

Shaftit is called products that are achieved when the product is connected in automatic mode. Production of such products requires a minimum amount of sewing operations (seamless technology).

Such a technology is the most difficult, requires the use of flat-generation plane electronic knitting machines equipped with cropping and gripping systems.

Properties of knitted webs.An important role in solving problems of modeling and designing knitted articles is played by knitting properties. The main properties include: extensibility, elasticity, shrinkage, thickness, width of the canvas, twisting of its edges, impactability, etc.

Stretchability- This is the ability of knitwear to deform or change its dimensions under the action of various types of loads, and after their removal is partially or completely recovered. The tension of the knitted canvase can occur in three directions - in length, width and diagonal.

Figure 16. Type of knitwear obtained cutting,

semi-regular and regular way

Depending on the degree of stretching by width under the action of the same dynamic loads (600 g), all knitted webs are divided into three groups:

The 1st group canvas have a small extensibility - from 0 to 40%;

The 2nd group canvas have an average extensibility - from 40 to 100%;

The 3rd group canvas have high extensibility - over 100%.

For each of the groups, the values \u200b\u200bof technical and general gains are set.

The tensileness of the knitwear leads to the expansion of the part in the transverse direction and a decrease in its length. In this regard, when designing clothes from knitwear, it increases the length of parts by 1% in the 1st group of cloths, by 2-2.5% - in the 2nd parts by 1% - in the 1st group of the canvases,

A characteristic feature of knitted canvases is a high proportion of elastic deformation, especially in width, regardless of their stretching. The elasticity of the canvas depends on the weave and yarn. Introduction to the canvas of modern elastomer threads allows you to get a knitted cloth with stretchability of up to 500%. Also, the use of the interlacing of a complete or incomplete lasty makes it possible to increase the elasticity of the canvas.

Thicknessknitted cloth more than 3 mm requires an increase to the width of the product equal to the tripled thickness (5), i.e. n you \u003d 3 - 5, otherwise the product will be aligned.

Spinning of edges knitwear- One of the negative properties. The degree of swirling depends on the type of weave, the density of knitting and genus fibers. The highest climbing of the edges is observed in single web blasting slats, chain, trico, atlas, 2nd and 3rd stretchability groups. Therefore, along the free edges of the parts (sides, the departure of the collar, etc.), there are several rows with another more stable interweaving or feed additional planks and braids.

Floatingknitted canvases occurs when the loop cliff or the cut. The greatest growing is the weave of the surface. Practically do not dissolve basebands. In products, it is necessary to pave a ring of a chain stitch in front of the cutting. The model must have a minimum of members.

Forming knitwear.In the manufacture of knitwear, along with traditional methods of formation, the original, due to the properties of yarn, weave, etc. are used.

A constructive method involving cutting canvas on the details of a particular size and configuration is used when designing clothes from knitted cloths of the 1st group of extensibility. In the manufacture of finicing products, the specified circuit configuration parts are obtained by changing the number of looping columns at some distance from the edge of the part or by the confusion of incomplete loopers. But the constructive method does not always take into account the features of the structure and the properties of knitwear, in particular its molding capacity.

Forming using the physico-mechanical properties of knitted webs is used in the manufacture of knitted products obtained by regular and semi-rigoric methods.

For example, as a result of alternating interlacing with a full and incomplete eraser, a stable fit (or decreases) of the part on a given plot is achieved (Fig. 17).

Figure 17. Forming of a knitwear due to the change of interlacing

Peting pitch press, openwork, etc. Weave, a change in their knitting density makes it possible to achieve an extensive effect (Fig. 18).

Forming is possible due to the change in the length of the threads in the loops, their thickness, or the introduction of elastic threads or spandex threads.

Technological methods of knitting also allow you to solve the problem of forming parts and plastics of the surface.

For example, a clear folding of folds or part of the side of the side can be turned off with a needle from work when knitting on flatfoot machines. This technique allows you to achieve a peculiar effect that the knitted canvas is reheated along the entire length of the non-working needle. The exact inflection is densely across the details can be achieved by tissue along the inflection line of one loop row of a smaller density or thread of a smaller thickness.

The alternation of facial and invalid mating along or across the canvas creates the impression of longitudinal or transverse tubular folds, etc. (Figure 19).

The high elasticity of the cloth of the 2nd and 3rd stretchability groups allows to reduce the cutting solution and distribute it between several sections (neck, shoulder cut, armor, etc.) and exclude the shoulder pulling on the back and cheerful on the shelf.

Figure 18. Forming of a knitwear due to a change in the density of knitting presses or openwork intertwines

Zones of placement of extract solutions must be fixed with edge, braid or glue gasket along the sections.

The physico-chemical method of shaping has been used in the manufacture of clothing from tubular canvases made of highly elastic fibers. Forming is carried out in the process of heat treatment.

Features of the calculation and construction of the drawings of details of the rifle of knitted cloth.Methods for building drawings of knitted clothing parts depend on the tensions of the canvas and the method of producing knitting products.

The book discusses how to build drawings for the cutting method of obtaining clothes from knitted webs of the 1st and 2nd extensibility groups. In the literature for these purposes it is proposed to use the estimated graphic methods. One of the best, allowing to build drawings for typical and individual figures, is a method developed in Ros-ZitlP.

Figure 19. Forming of a knitwear due to the combination of various interlacing

The fulfillment of the basic design (BC) of the knitware is as well as clothes from the tissues, includes the construction of the drawing basic grid and the contours of the main parts on it.

When building the drawings of details of clothing from the cloth of the 1st group of extensibility, the Ros-ZitlP method can be used without changes and additions. When designing clothes from the cloth of the 2nd stretchability group, construction is performed, as in the first case. The gains are selected equal to 2-5 cm. In the finished drawing, the shoulder pulling on the back is divided into three parts, which are distributed between the neck of the back (0.5-0.75 cm), the shoulder slice (1-1.5 cm) and the backrest faith ( 1-1.5 cm). Planting the material on the specified areas is fixed by the edge.

On the shelf in swing products, the breast pads are distributed in the following proportions along the side lines - up to 15% of the breast paddling solution, along the throat line - up to 10%, at a premium - up to 25-30%, by side slice - up to 40-50% of the swelling solution . Landing the canvas in these areas is fixed by the edge.

A feature of constructing a tight-fitting knitted knitted knitted design of the 3rd stretchability group is the calculation of the structure, taking into account the percentage of searches (Fig. 21).

First, it is based on the construction of a basic design with a total increase in the breast line P o6st \u003d 0. Then the breasting extract is distributed to the landing of the side slice and the section of the armor, as discussed above.

The next step is the choice of the percentage of searches, depending on the type of weave, density, refueling and class of the machine. The following orientation percentages of the percent of the searches are recommended: for weave Eraser 2: 2 - 30-40%, 3: 3 - up to 50%, 4: 4 - more than 50%. Depending on the volume of the shoulder belt, part of the design above the armor is calculated by the main percentage of searches or 5% less than the main one.

Figure 20. Redistribution of breastplate in knitted product

Figure 21. Drawing of the basic design of knitted articles from the 3rd stretchability band

The main percentage of the simulation of the sleeve is 5-10% less than the main percentage of the product. Oakat sleeves is calculated by 5% less than the main percent of the simulation of the sleeve. Next, they produce recalculation of the most characteristic design points in the drawing, taking into account the selected percentage of searches. For the final construction of the knitted product, taking into account the percent of the seeding into the resulting drawing, the following adjustments are made: the end of the shoulder slice on the back and the front is lifted by 1.0-2.0 cm, as a result, to preserve the length of the armhole, its depth is raised according to the same value.

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