Shave like a king: The classic straight razor technique. Straight razor shaving: rules and technique of the procedure

30.08.2019

The straight razor was at one time undeservedly forgotten by the majority of the male population, since T-shaped Gillette machines, and then electric shavers, appeared in everyday life. Working with them is not so traumatic for beginners, but not as high-quality either. The straight razor helps you get a clean shave without irritation.

What is a straight razor

The second name of the tool is a blade razor, in everyday life "fear". The working part is a wide blade made of carbon or stainless steel. The blade has a head of various shapes (round, rectangular or "French"), a back (blunt side of the blade), a depression. The more deep and wide the blade is, the better it adapts to the contours of the face. The tail of the working part is movably connected to a long handle, into which the blade hides after the end of the work.

The most popular "fears" are produced in the German city of Solingen - once the second world shaving center (the first - Sheffield). Manufacturers Dovo, Thiers-Issard and Bismarck are especially appreciated by true lovers of "danger", but it is difficult to find genuine samples in stores, it is better to order them on the Internet at specialized sites. The Japanese "fears" Titan have proven themselves quite well. How much does a straight razor cost? On average, the price starts at 6,000 rubles (we are talking about a branded sample), but such an investment is durable, because the tool will last more than one year.

Straight razor shaving

The procedure requires a certain level of skill. For beginners, first-time exposure to a straight razor is rarely successful, and results are worse than using a T-bar or power tool. The hand becomes firm and professional after about one hundredth use. The main components of a safe and quality shave are calmness, confidence in your actions, regularity of movements and compliance with all the rules.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before learning how to shave with a straight razor, every man wants to make sure he has a decent alternative. The blade tool has the following advantages:

Low cost for a good thing. If the blade is well cared for, it can last a lifetime.
The tool provides smooth-shaven skin without irritating the face.
The blade is almost always sharp, so it doesn't pull hairs or pull the skin.
The "fear" is easy to handle.
With the blade tool, it is easy to model a beard and mustache.

There are also disadvantages to "fear":

An inexperienced person can easily get hurt while shaving.
It takes a long time to learn how to work with a straight razor.
The tool must be protected from moisture and well lubricated. In addition to it, you need to purchase a leather belt and an abrasive paste.
The blade needs a "rest" for at least 2 days after use. If you have a need to shave more often, you should consider purchasing another tool or a whole set.

Preparation

How to shave with a straight razor without risking your own health? You need to prepare well for the procedure. You should have at your disposal:

blade razor;
grindstone;
leather belt required for straightening;
shaving brush (preferably from badger pile);
shaving foam or gel;
hot water tank;
mirror;
powder to stop blood from cuts.

When all the inventory is collected in one place, you can start shaving. Preparation Guide:

Warm up your beard - take a shower or put a hot towel tightly on your face (do this twice).
Fill a container with very hot water and dip the shaving brush into it.
Take out the shaving brush, squeeze out the rest of the water.
Apply to wet face or squeeze lather into a bowl and beat with a brush.
Cover your face with a thick layer of foam. She should lie down in dense peaks.
If the hair is too coarse, wait 5 minutes and then reapply the lather.

Technique

How to shave a man with a straight razor? It is necessary to carry out short movements, tilting the blade at an angle of 15-20 ° to the plane of the skin. The cutting edge shaves, not the hand, that is, you create a kind of acceleration, and the blade shaves off the hair by inertia. In doing so, you need to ensure the correct angle of inclination of the blade and set the trajectory. Hold the knife with three fingers in front of the handle.

To make the straight razor move easily, do not move it with the entire plane, but at an angle of 30-40 ° (mow angle) towards the area of the hair to be cut. The razor head will constantly wedge into the area to be treated. While doing this, stretch the skin slightly. You shouldn't feel the razor shave. All clinging to the bristle indicates that the blade needs to be sharpened or returned for repair.

How to shave your beard and mustache

When all the preparatory procedures are completed, you can get down to business. How to shave for a man:

Begin to cleanse your face with your dominant hand. Stretch your skin and use short strokes to guide the straight razor from your temple to your chin.
Move the blade along the hair growth.
One pass with a sharp blade is enough to cleanse the skin of hair well.
With the same movements, slowly shave your cheeks, chin, and neck.
It's easy to shape the contours of the beard with caution, as you will know exactly where to stop. With its help, you will create a special style for yourself.
To keep some areas of your face perfectly clean, run your blade across the skin across and against hair growth.
How to shave your mustache with a straight razor? It is worth moving only in the direction of hair growth, otherwise you risk injuring your nose.

How to shave stubble

Using the blade in this case is necessary in the same way as when shaving a beard and mustache. It makes no difference whether it is a modern razor, Soviet or foreign antiques: the main thing is that it is sharp. Your head should be calm, and you are focused on what you are doing. Algorithm of actions:

Prepare. Consider the recommendations for stiff bristles (hot towel, shower, lots of foam and gel).
Shave your face using all the techniques above. If your hair is very thick, use two straight razors alternately.
Remove any remaining foam with cold water to help close the pores.
Dry the razor, dress it and oil the blade.

Sharpening the straight razor

The tool needs to be sharpened periodically, as a dull blade is often more traumatic than a sharp one. The safety razor with replaceable blades does not need this procedure. A stationary blade is sharpened like this:

Saturate a 1000-6000 grit whetstone with water. The surface of the stone must be absolutely flat.

In addition to the possibility, there is an even more "masculine" act - to shave with a straight razor. Why even shave your facial hair with a straight razor? There are so many wonderful ways to avoid this relic of the past: machine tools with blades, electric razors, trimmers ... a beard, after all. But a straight razor is the best way not to shave your beard for a long time, because it really shaves very, very clean. And today we will try to understand the complex intricacies of dangerous razors.

How to edit a razor

As with any weapon, a razor is worth looking after. Usually, grinding the blade on a genuine leather belt is enough for this. The belt must be turned to the wrong side and stretched slightly. It should have been wide enough. When you start sanding, make sure the razor blade points straight towards you and the back of the razor is slightly raised above the belt surface. Grind the razor regularly, but do not immediately after shaving: there is little damage to the blade, which can lead to breakage and formation of jagged edges.

How to prepare to shave

First, the face needs to be moisturized. Dampen a waffle or terry towel with hot water and apply it well to your face. Let it sit for a few minutes so that the skin is well moisturized and steamed - this will help well against irritation, which will surely pop out after the first shave. Of course, do not close your eyes and forehead, if your beard has not climbed there.

Secondly, you need shaving foam. But not as you are used to shaving, but especially foamy. Buy special shaving foam with a straight razor. Instead of foam, it is quite possible to use shaving soap, which gives a voluminous, beautiful foam. Lather the bristles with a brush and beat the foam in a cup.

How to hold a razor

There are many ways to hold your razor. More specifically, I found three. And this is really a lot! I personally think that you need to learn how to use at least one way, and leave the rest for pondering bros.

The first way. Keep your index, middle, and ring fingers at the top of the base of the razor as it goes into the casing. Transfer your little finger to the tail, and with your thumb hold the lower part of the neck for support. Let the casing point downward.

Second way. Almost the same, only the razor cover, or, as it is also called, the "sting", is directed in the other direction, convenient for the shaver.

Third way. The thumb and middle finger rest on the top of the handle near the neck. The index guides the blade. The rest either hold the razor by the handle or accidentally shave off - and who said it was easy?

Shaving

The easiest place to start is with the temple. From what? From what is on the side of your dominant hand. That is, if you are right-handed, start with the right temple. If left-handed - from the left. How to shave with a straight razor further? Apply the razor to your skin at a slight angle - 25-35 degrees. For those who do not have an eye, let us inform you that this is a little less than 45, and this is easier to calculate. Stretch your face with your free hand for easier shaving. Lead from the temples to the chin. Have you spent? Now repeat the procedure, but against the grain. What for? For a cleaner shave with a straight razor. The smaller the angle, the more chances that the hair will not be pulled out by the blade. The degree can only be increased by shaving the lip area. The easiest way is to start by shaving your cheeks and temples, and then move on to shaving your lips and chin.

Necessary things

A razor, of course. A good razor is produced by prominent German companies such as Dovo. The price tag starts from 8-9 thousand. Chinese can be bought at a price starting from 500 rubles, but the quality is lame. Real belts made of cowhide leather for straightening the blade are bought at a price of 2-3 thousand rubles. The price range for brushes, soaps and foam trays is enormous.

Is it worth spending money on this pleasure? I don’t know, but you can always try in a good salon, and then say whether it’s worth it or not.

How to shave without a razor? There are very few such methods, and they are all barbaric: a sharp knife, a lighter or a waffle towel. Modern men choose safer methods. Some people prefer the machine, because it is easy to use, it is almost impossible for them to get hurt. Some people prefer those that touch only the bristles and do not cling to the top layer of the skin. But the straight razor is still considered the classic option.

What should a beginner choose? Straight razor or alternative tools, which is better? Consider the nuances in today's publication.

The instrument fell into the hands for the first time

What is the reason for changing the way you shave with a straight razor?

There can be two of them:

Sensitive skin;
A cleaner shave;
Style and memories of the past.

In my case, the reason was sensitivity. Each touch of the machine caused wild discomfort, and the process itself took a lot of time. Fortunately, there were two old Soviet straight razors lying around at home. lay for more than a dozen years without action. These are, one might say, antiques, undeservedly forgotten devices. And the first thing that had to be done was to figure out how to sharpen the razor. After that, figure out how to shave with a straight razor. Due to inexperience and the fact that the fear was old, of course there were cuts, but the effect was unsurpassed.

Advantages and disadvantages of using

The pros and cons of the tool are obvious. The positive features include:

Smoother skin
Ability to sharpen yourself;
Before the process, you can use a soap solution; gel, foam and even oil;
Saving money;
Multifunctionality.

The name clearly reflects a drawback - a high probability of cutting yourself due to inexperience or improper use.

I was able to find a suitable one - half of the work is done

Razor Width Ratio

For novice connoisseurs of such things, the first place is the question: how to choose a straight razor. Firstly, you should not chase the price and buy the most expensive one right away, because its cost is not low, but it may happen that a specific method simply does not work. Secondly, the sharpness of the razor must be of good quality. It is better for a beginner to choose a shaving knife with a round head. A properly sharpened and straightened blade can protect your skin from cuts and wounds. In addition, unsafe shaving will be available in the most distant and uncomfortable places. The most unsafe shape is considered to be square.

Do not forget that there are articles on the site about growing a beard. Would highly recommend mine.

Male cuts that are scared may heal quickly, but the best option is to sharpen the straight razor and round the edges to make them smooth. This process can be done independently (for this, medium and rough stones for sharpening a straight razor are suitable), or you can use the services of a specialist. When choosing a razor blade, it is better to pay attention to a wider one; problems with a narrow one can arise, especially for inexperienced people. It is out of ignorance that some men complain: how to shave with a straight razor if it leaves wounds on the neck and cheeks?

When making a choice, remember also that a straight razor made of low-quality steel grinds off quickly. Therefore, ask your dealer about the alloy content. One of the main indicators is the carbon content, the more it is, the longer the device stays sharp.

As you learn to hold it in your hands correctly, then success is guaranteed.

How to shave with a straight razor? In my experience, shaving with a straight razor is not fun and quality without knowing how to hold a straight razor. In fact, straight razor shaving isn't all that difficult. I'll tell you some secrets of how to shave with a straight razor correctly:

First you need to thoroughly lather your face with a brush. The more foam there is, the easier the process will go.
At this time, you should put the razor in a glass of warm water. Then you need to lean the wide part against your face, and raise the straight razor at an angle of 40 degrees.

Correct grip of fear

The sharp blade remains in contact with the skin. If you learn to hold it properly and follow the direction of "hair growth", then clean and smooth skin is guaranteed. In addition, you should not press on the skin at all, the movements should be smooth and light. Then you can avoid unpleasant cuts.

Straight razor shaving is not difficult, but requires regular practice. Details below.

Use of fear on the skin

The question of proper shaving with a straight razor worries everyone who has ever had it in their hand. As practice has shown, there should be a strong tension on the skin. That is, we hold the device with the leading hand, and with the second we pull the skin from above in the opposite direction. It is necessary to hold it constantly so that dangerous shaving is easy. The process takes place in two stages: first, the blade goes in the direction of bristle growth, and then against. A straight razor will either make the skin perfectly smooth or leave many cuts: it all depends on technique and experience.

The "by growth" treatment removes the longest hair. In this case, only small black dots or a short, poorly cut bristle remain. In the second step, you should re-lather your beard and brush off the remaining hair at a deeper level. After the end of the process, the face should be moistened with cool water, and then use a product for sensitive skin if irritation appears on it. That's all the tutorial on how to shave properly with a straight razor.

Instrument care

To keep your appliance looking like new you need to know how to use a straight razor after shaving. We must not forget that it is easy to cut with this thing during maintenance, but at the same time, you should never leave it wet. The tool is made of steel, which tends to rust if not cared for. To avoid this, it is enough to wipe dry with a razor with a tissue.

We must not forget about security measures and neglect them. Provide a cover for a straight razor made of thick material, a tool made of high-quality steel for that and dangerous, which can easily cut your fingers. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to lubricate the fear with machine oil at least once a month. This is the surest option to prevent rust from appearing. Then even the old fear will look like new.

If all these procedures are lazy, a straight razor with replaceable blades will do. As soon as the blade is worn off, it is simply changed.

Sharpening on a bar, stone, sandpaper

The razor on its own does not keep the sharpening that was at the beginning, if you do not take additional care of it. And sharpening a straight razor is a must. If this moment is missed, scratches and scars cannot be avoided. How to sharpen correctly and what is the feature? This process is called honing, and it has several methods. For the first, a regular straightening block is suitable. The same stone is used for knives. A razor blade will be sharp if you moisten the sharpener with water and hold the blade gently along the stone. The effect will be better if the stone is the same width as the accessory itself or even larger. It is imperative that both the body and the tip of the tool lie on the bar, and you first need to lead and sharpen the razor completely on one side, and then on the other. If the stone is smaller than the blade, then you need to take into account the sharpening angle yourself, which a beginner may not be able to do. Sharpening a straight razor at home is also done with sandpaper. Abrasive, although it is quickly erased, but it is not expensive. If the straight razor is made of hardened steel, it is better not to use sandpaper.

Jeans sharpening

What are the ways to sharpen your straight razor? It turns out that you can sharpen your jeans at home. For this you need:

Unscrew the pants;
Spread on a flat surface;
Place a block or other level object under the fabric;
Start sanding on jeans, first in one direction and then the other.

This is a simple way to sharpen a razor with jeans.

What is edit and why is it needed

Straightening a straight razor is the process of flattening the edges at the end of an accessory. For this, a strap and linen are used. Sharpening a dangerous item correctly will be easier if the strap on the straight razor is wider than the length of the tool. In this case, it is not difficult to completely fit the fear on the belt. If the size is smaller, then you will have to shift the blade each time so that it moves evenly and is equally sharp everywhere.

How to edit a straight razor? To avoid problems, follow the instructions. The process is different from sharpening a straight razor. Here we work not so much with the blade as with the blade itself - i.e. all instrument. The straightening belt is in such a position that it is convenient to direct the point towards it. The sharpening angle is not too important. Keep the straight razor sharpening strap taut as much as possible. The main thing is to try to lean the blade closer to its surface. If the belt is loose, nothing will come of it. Upon completion of the process, the instrument will produce a characteristic sound. That's all the nuances of how to edit a straight razor.

And most importantly, we keep the correct angle:

Also see:

How to keep the correct angle when sharpening

Models made in different countries

We have figured out how to shave cautiously, so I will say a few more words about famous manufacturers. The German fearsome is considered a model of quality all over the world. The Solingen razor from the city of the same name was considered the best. Only solid blades were made there. Henkels was considered the most popular. The straight razor from England is a chavette. It differs in many ways from the previous one. Most importantly, this straight razor has replaceable blades. Chavette and Zoligen are considered exemplary instruments to this day. Japan is the country where the Japanese fears of the "Titan" company are in the first place. Mahogany from Madagascar is used to make the hilts of these blades. And this is not so much a tribute to fashion or style as a necessity. Mahogany from Madagascar does not swell with water and prevents the formation of bacteria, which subsequently lead to deterioration of the instrument and skin irritation.

Old Russian-made razors used to be made of damask steel. Most often it was handmade. The cover for the apprehension was made of genuine leather. But even in the USSR there was a well-known factory where the work of the vacha was made, which is now being sold at auctions. By the way, if you decide to buy a tool on the Internet, pay attention to those models that include a case for your accessory in the kit. Finally, it is worth saying that a straight razor made of damask steel is best suited for beginners. It is a medical grade alloy, so cuts will heal faster than other blades.

And remember, if you doubt your abilities, then you can always go to a session.

Shaving is carried out in different ways - disposable razors, etc. It is with the last tool that you can achieve maximum quality and smooth skin as much as it is impossible to achieve with other methods. But working with it is not easy and, as its name suggests, dangerous. In some countries, hairdressers need a special certificate to use this tool.

The straight razor is a stylist classic

Good shave conditions - good sharpening

A good dangerous shave is based on a sharp razor. It must be made of durable metal, free from bends and deformations. It is important to keep it as sharp as possible. If it is not sharpened too well, then it will become difficult for the master to work with it. To obtain a high-quality result, it will have to be kept at a very sharp angle to the skin.

This leads to unpleasant sensations and irritation in the client. It also increases the likelihood of scratches. Therefore, entrust the regular sharpening of the razor to a professional. He will not only sharpen it sharply and evenly, but also at the right angle.

Razor sharpness: you can change the blades, but it is better to sharpen correctly

To understand whether your tool is well sharpened, whether it has become blunt in the process of work, you need to know a few rules.

You cannot check the sharpness of the razor visually;
The test is popular. The razor locks onto. On top of it, perpendicular to the blade, hair smoothly and gently falls. If he just touched the blade, but fell into two parts, then the sharpening was done correctly;
Experienced craftsmen can check the sharpness with a finger, but this method is not recommended for beginners, since cuts cannot be avoided.

You need to edit the straight razor on the belt using a special paste. At the same time, you need to keep it at a certain angle to the belt. This is a rather complex and specific process. But every master should learn it, since the straightening of the straight razor with a large flow of clients should be performed quite often.

VIEW VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

How to hold the instrument correctly

There are two methods of holding the straight razor correctly. Sometimes they are distinguished more, but the rest are only a variety or derivative of the main ones.

The main method. Hold the tool in the right cyst (or the left for left-handers). The blade is facing down, the handle is up. The thumb rests on the bottom of the razor, to the left of the cutting edge, closer to the heel. The little finger lies on the unsharpened edge, at the end of the razor, behind the junction with the case. The rest of the fingers are on the unsharpened edge;
Second method. We take the instrument in the leading hand. The blade is turned up, the handle is down. Little finger under the tail, behind the screw that secures to the case. The thumb is on the inside of the unsharpened edge with notches, all other fingers are on the outside.

The second method is considered more convenient. But each master must choose it individually.

Bristle slope

All body hair grows at a specific angle to the surface of the skin. This angle is approximately equal for identical hairs growing on the same part of the body. This is an important fact to consider when shaving. In particular when moving the razor, tilting it and pulling on the skin.

Tightening the leather belt

To properly shave with a straight razor, you need to know how to properly tighten your skin. It must be tightened with each movement of the tool in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. Place your finger 1.5 - 2 cm from the cutting edge and move by pressing on the skin. Use the index finger of your non-dominant hand (i.e. not the one in which the razor is).

Tool tilt angle: even if you have Solingen, the rules are the same for everyone

The tool moves with the head forward, in short movements, strictly on the taut area of the skin. To make the skin smooth and the quality of work high, hold the razor at an angle to the skin surface of 30 - 40 degrees. If the angle is sharper, so much the better. The movements are smooth and frequent.

Such a shave will take place with maximum comfort for the client and convenience for the master. This reduces the likelihood of scratches and injuries.

Correct straight razor shaving technique: instructions for men

Use a straight razor according to specific instructions. The face is processed in several stages, which must be followed. This will allow you to get the best result in combination with the speed of work and comfort for the client.

The instrument must be sterilized after use on a previous client and placed in a separate box. Before using it again, it must be treated with an antiseptic. Some masters repeatedly use an antiseptic and in the process.

Before shaving

The beard or bristles are lathered with a shaving brush. The master pours a glass of warm or hot water and places the razor there for a few seconds (the working surface of the tool). This is done so that it warms up and the manipulation does not cause unpleasant sensations, goose bumps or a desire to flinch in the client. All this interferes with the process.

It takes a few seconds for the instrument to reach a comfortable temperature.

Shave the right side

Straight razor shaving training always starts on the right side of the client's face. Some masters start with the left, as it is more convenient for them.

The first movement is directed from the temple down, parallel to the cheekbone;
The second movement is along the angle of the lower jaw;
The third is above the second, from the center of the cheek down towards the chin;
Fourth - from the chin up to the lip;
Fifth - three movements along the mustache zone above the upper lip;
Sixth - on the side of the lip, starts slightly to the right of the corner of the lips, moves to the zone of the fifth movement;
Seventh - from the chin to the corner of the lower jaw along the edge of the face;
Eighth, ninth and tenth - three movements along the neck from top to bottom.

During the whole process, the skin of the face should be stretched.

Shaving the left side

Straight razor shaving involves working differently on the left side of your face. This is due to the fact that most of the masters' own hands greatly obstruct the view.

The first movement from the temple downward, as well as to the right;
The second movement - on the cheek - is similar to the third from the right;
Third, three short movements above the upper lip;
Fourth - from the place to the right of the corner of the lips to the mustache zone and from the same place down to the chin;
Fifth - a series of movements along the line of the lower jaw, from its corner to the chin;
Sixth - Chin to lip, from bottom to top;
Seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth - a series of movements from the chin and jaw line down to the neck.

No matter how sharp your razor is, after such a shave, the hair growth will still leave remnants of bristles. To eliminate them, re-shave against growth is carried out.

Second phase

Starts on the right. The first movement is along the neck, closer to the ear, from bottom to top. The second is along the angle of the lower jaw to the temple. The third is from the jaw up. Fourth - from the jaw to the ear. Fifth - from the jaw to the chin. Next, the chin itself and the area on the side of it, towards the mustache growth line, are shaved. After that, re-shave the area under the lower lip and neck, moving from the bottom up, that is, against the growth of hair.

On the left, you also start from the neck. Then shave your cheek in three movements from the bottom up. The fifth movement starts from the corner of the lips down the chin, the sixth - from the same zone up to the nose. Then the area under the lower lip and neck are shaved.

After the procedure

Wipe the lather off your skin with a towel. Now wash yourself with cool water. When your skin is prone to irritation, use a warm compress with a damp towel for a few minutes.

Shaving with caution is a whole range of activities, be prepared for them

Now apply any aftershave that suits your skin type.

A brutal, self-confident man should be able to shave with a straight or straight razor. This personal hygiene item was revered by English gentlemen, as well as crazy criminals in thrillers. Let's figure out how to shave properly with a straight razor, what nuances should be taken into account in order to achieve the perfect result and not injure yourself.

Be prepared for the fact that the first time the result will be far from ideal, but over time, the hand will get used to performing the movements flawlessly. Many people quite rightly think - if the blade is so sharp, why risk it? After all, you can use the instructions - how to properly shave a man with a machine - this is less traumatic. The fact is that the straight razor removes the smallest hairs on the face, the skin is clean and smooth.

Professional Tips:

never use a razor blade when you are in a bad mood, tired or upset about something, its use requires maximum concentration and absolute calmness;
for the first time, do not try to shave your face completely, start with flat areas - the cheeks;
the process is complex, so it will take weeks or even months to hone your skills;
in addition to theoretical information, be sure to watch the video - how to shave with a straight razor - a clear example is always more effective, it will help to catch insignificant details.

And as a final recommendation, a video from the most famous blade makers - Mr. Bocker and his son.

It is important! The use of a straight razor, in addition to perfectly even and smooth skin, can be deeply rewarding. The main thing is to be patient and methodically hone your skills, movement and skill.

Personal care products for unsafe shaving

Straight razor. Do not buy a razor from Chinese brands, as their edge is uneven, irregular geometry. Such equipment is simply not suitable for shaving; it is impossible to sharpen a Chinese blade.
Blade dressing belt. Manual (overhead) straps are most commonly used, but other types of belts will work as well. When choosing a model, pay attention to the presence of the fabric side.
The following beard care products are complementary, but very useful:

special soap or foam for a straight razor;
shaving brush;
cups for preparing foam.

A few words about choosing a razor

If you are looking for a truly quality blade razor, choose the following brands - Dovo, Thiers-Issard, and Böker. If your budget is tight, you can buy a Giesen & Forsthoff GoldDollar razor. Their quality is somewhat inferior to the quality of famous brands, but in general you can shave. Remember new razors need to be sharpened.

It is important! Antique razors are in no way inferior to new, expensive models, and in some respects even surpass them. Look for such a rarity on a special site - the Razor Club. Most of the shavers have already passed the test of time and are undoubtedly of high quality. If you are a beginner, do not buy an antique blade blade on eBay - it is impossible to assess the quality from the photos presented on the site.

How to edit a razor

A bladed razor is equated to a weapon, but like any weapon, it must be monitored and looked after. Care consists in grinding the blade on the belt, which must be made of genuine leather.

Grinding is performed according to the following scheme:

turn the belt with the inside;
stretch slightly;
the blade should be directed strictly towards the person, and the back part is slightly raised above the belt.

The procedure is carried out regularly, but you cannot grind the blade immediately after shaving - microdamages remain on the surface, which can provoke the appearance of chipping.

Basic principles of a perfect shave

The main secret is in a sharp blade.

The better the blade is sharpened, the easier it is to follow the shaving technique, and accordingly, the result will be better. A poorly sharpened blade will irritate the skin.

How to hold a razor.

There are three ways to hold the blade.

The little finger is in the notch, the thumb is at the bottom of the neck and rests on the heel, the rest of the fingers are on the earl.
The little finger is on the notch of the tail, the thumb is on the earl, the rest of the fingers are on the outside. This method is similar in many respects to the first. The difference lies in the direction of the blade - it is directed upwards.
The blade is directed upwards, the middle and index fingers are located on the earl from the inside, the ring finger holds the tail, the thumb holds the back in the part of the connection with the blade. Make sure the handle is close to your wrist.

It is important! Regardless of which method is chosen, the hair should be removed without effort, no pressure on the blade.

How to properly stretch the skin.

The basic rule is that the skin is pulled in the direction opposite to the movement of the razor. The scheme of actions is as follows:

the skin is pulled with one finger, it is most convenient to use the index or middle;
the finger is located a few centimeters from the blade;
the skin must be tightened before each stroke of the razor.

It is important! Pay special attention to areas where the natural tension of the skin is minimal. First of all, it concerns the cheeks - if it is not enough to stretch the skin, you can get injured.

Tilt angle and direction of the blade.

The tool should always move toe (head) forward, the angle of inclination is not less than 30 degrees, but not more than 40 degrees.

Movements should be light, relaxed. Only the hand should move - rhythmically and often. Shaving with your entire hand will not cut the hair but pull out, which is painful and irritating.

How to shave with a straight razor - video tutorials and practical recommendations

It is necessary to prepare your face for the procedure - take a hot shower or apply a steamed towel to your face twice for 5 minutes.

After that, a shaving brush should be soaked in the hottest water possible. Then you need to squeeze out the excess water and beat the foam in a container where the brush was soaked (pour out the water) or directly on the face. Before applying the foam, the face must be wetted.

The foam is applied to the parts of the face where the hair grows, it should be thick and dense. Use a hot towel to remove excess foam to cleanse your face of sebum. Apply the lather again in short strokes and leave for 5-10 minutes. If the soap dries up during this time, the foam is applied again. The foam layer should be as large as possible - this is to protect the skin from a sharp blade.

It is important! The three most traumatic areas are Adam's apple, ears, lips.

Now you can start shaving directly. Movements are performed from the temple. If this is your first time using the blade, simply place it flat on your face and then lift the blade at an angle of no less than 30 degrees and no more than 40 degrees.

A quality procedure involves several stages:

hair growth;
against hair growth.

Before the second stage, the face is washed and lathered again. Now let's look at each stage in more detail.

Treatment of the right side of the face for hair growth

Movements begin from the temporal line, going down to the cheek. The razor must be held in the first way. First, remove the foam a little at the temple line - this is necessary in order to evenly expose the blade. The skin is stretched a little and the hair is cut off with a slight movement. In this way, a few centimeters down are processed, then you should move to the jaw. To do this, in the middle of the cheek, the blade is slightly turned in the direction of the lobe.

It is important! In the corner of the jaw, hairs, as a rule, grow chaotically, here it is important to move in the direction of growth.

Particular attention should be paid to the area near the ear. To do this, slightly pull the ear away from the blade and then cut off the hairs.

Then the blade must be taken in the third way, set in the middle of the cheek, the edge should be located below the cheekbone. In this position, the cheek is treated in the direction of the lips.

After that, the blade moves to the hairs that grow under the lower lip.

Advice! Use your tongue to form a small bulge, this makes it much easier to work with the blade. Throughout the process, it is important to use the muscles of the face to protect against injury.

When cutting hairs on the chin, you need to monitor the position of the razor, as this is where cuts often occur. From the chin to the mouth, the hairs are cut with a blade in position 2 or 3. The main task is to stop the blade in time so as not to damage the lower lip.

Mustache modeling is a complex process. Given that the hair grows from top to bottom here, the blade should move as well. The blade should be kept in position 1. The movement should be short and precise. The side of the mustache is shaved from right to left using only the head of the blade. The hairs are cut to the middle, moving lower, you can cut the lip.

The razor is held in the first way and the area from the chin to the center of the jaw is processed. The skin needs to be stretched in two directions - one finger on the chin, the other on the jaw, and the blade between them. The tool works quickly, easily, without pressure.

The last step is shaving your neck. To avoid cutting the Adam's apple, the skin in this part of the neck is pulled to the side and the hairs are then cut off. The blade is held in position 2.

Treatment of the left side of the face for hair growth

The razor is taken in the first position, while the head of the blade should not block the view. Movement starts again from the line of the temple. The blade drops a few centimeters, you need to make sure that the cut on the right and left is at the same level. The reference point is the conditional line of the eyes. The razor moves down towards the cheek.

The blade then moves from the center of the cheek to the chin. The razor is set along a conventional line from the eyes to the lobe. Along the way, the area of the pads and the lower part of the mustache on the left are processed. To make it easier to cut the mustache, it is enough to raise the tip of the nose. The blade is held in method 1.

The next step is to cut off the rest of the hair in the mustache area - small movements from left to right. The hairs should be trimmed from the side in the direction of their growth. Blade in position 2.

The blade is placed near the lobe and moved towards the chin. The skin should be pulled diagonally up to the ear.

As for the area above the upper lip, it can be cleaned by treating the right side of the face. If insignificant hairs remain, they are removed at this stage. The blade is taken in method 2 or 3.

After that, the hairs are cut off from the neck - the blade is held from the chin to the Adam's apple. You cannot shave the Adam's apple directly. It is necessary to pull back the skin a little and only then treat the area.

Then they move on to the rest of the neck - the blade is in position 1, it is installed from the bottom of the jaw and is carried out with a slight movement until the end of hair growth.

It is important! In the lower part of the neck, hair often grows from the bottom up. To shave them off, take the blade in the second way and perform movements from the bottom up.

Treatment of the right side of the face against hair growth

A second step is necessary to remove any remaining hairs and bring the shaving process to perfection. Before that, you need to apply foam, if the bristles are soft, just wash yourself with warm water.

Cut off the hairs starting from the neck line, the blade moves in the direction of the temples. The right side of the face is shaved with a razor in position 3. The skin is pulled in the direction of the reverse of the blade.

First of all, the right side of the neck is cut below the ear, the blade is gently advanced towards the cheek. If your face is thin, it is safest to change the direction of the razor near the ear - behind the lower jaw.

After processing the cheek, the blade moves to the temple, then again from the cheek to the chin, at the same time the hairs are cut off in the lower right part of the mustache and near the right corner of the mouth.

In the last step, the hairs on the neck are removed. The blade continues to move from the bottom up, in the direction from the Adam's apple to the chin.

Treatment of the left side of the face against hair growth

The left side of the face is lathered or simply washed. When processing the left side, the blade must be held in the second way.

The sequence is much the same as shaving the right side. The razor moves up from the neck, near the lobe, the blade gently goes around the lobe and moves to the temple.

After that, from the center of the cheek, the blade is directed to the chin, then the left side of the mustache and the left corner of the mouth are processed. At the final stage, the hairs are shaved from the lower part of the neck to the jaw. Now the last detail remains - to process the area around the mouth. Along the line of growth of the mustache, the blade moves along the growth - from top to bottom. Under the lower lip - the direction changes - from bottom to top. The razor needs to be held in the second way.

At first, it is likely that even after repeated treatment it will not be possible to perfectly cut off all the hairs; in this case, you need to soap your face again and cut off the remaining hairs against growth.

In the end, be sure to watch the video on how to shave with a straight razor. The wizard will tell you how to choose the right tools, prepare the foam and shave your hair as safely as possible.

Warnings

If you have to shave for the third time, go around the area above the upper lip.
Never work the mustache with movements from the bottom up, you can injure your nose.
Never catch the razor while falling.
Do not walk with an open razor.
The movements should not be scored, only smooth and clear.
Calm down and focus before shaving.

So, now you know how to shave properly with a straight razor, photos and videos will help you to more clearly study the technology, the sequence of actions.

If you are not yet ready to master the features of the technology, read the material on how to shave with an electric razor.

For those who prefer perfectly smooth skin, we remind you once again the basic principles of using a safety razor:

study carefully all three ways to hold the blade;
cut hairs only at a certain angle - from 30 to 40 degrees;
take care of the blade, it should be perfectly sharp;
at the first stage, cut the hairs in the direction of their growth, and then - against the growth.