How to make a fleece lining for a hat. How to sew a lining for a finished hat
This morning I walked the dog and admired the first snow. It was quiet, as if nature froze and enjoyed these huge white flakes. However, the idyll was broken by a cold and incredibly thorny wind blowing heat from all places available to him. Including my lovely new hat. We urgently need a lining for a knitted hat! Actually, this is what the master class is about. On 4 hats, taking into account photographing, it took 3 hours.
So, you will need fleece or brushed knitwear, any sewing machine, knitwear needles with a round tip, a hand needle, threads, tailor's chalk, scissors. 
I have a warm brushed knit in stock. True, it has flowers on one side, but I will not tell my husband about the flowers.
We take the hat for which we are going to sew the lining. We fold the jersey in two layers, facing inward. We put the hat on, and, pressing it well with the palm of our hand and, as it were, slightly flattening it, we outline the contour. 
We draw a second line one centimeter from the outlined contour - seam allowances. 
We split along the inner line with pins so that the layers of fabric do not crawl and cut out. 
Now we need to make two darts so that the top of the hat is beautifully shaped. Here is a small lyrical digression. I know, many people cut 6 triangles and from them they already sew the lining. But for me, two halves with two short darts are faster, fewer seams, and, therefore, less time, for a child's head such a hat is more delicate, less fabric consumption.
As many as 4 arguments! More than enough, in my opinion. Therefore, back to the darts. The darts go from the top of the head down. Between the middle of the darts 5-7 cm, the length of the darts 5-7 cm, depth 2-2.5 cm. I draw darts by eye and by hand, slightly bending the sides of the darts, so they are more anatomical. 
In order to draw the same darts on another part of the lining, it is necessary to mark the edges of the darts with a cut and mark the top of the dart on the other side with the help of tailor's pins. Draw lines from the diffusers to the top of the dart. 
First we sew all the darts. By the way, since the solution of the tuck falls on the round part of the crown, the sides of the tuck will not coincide. This is as it should be, but the incisions should be in line. 
Iron the allowances of the darts inward and align the line of the crown. 
Next, we chop off the details of the lining with the front side inward (the pins are perpendicular to the seam, so as not to interfere with the course of the machine sewing) and grind the parts along the contour line of the cap. The seam is either a narrow zig-zag or a chain seam. I have a chain. 
Now we need to steam off the details. This requires a large towel. Make a lump out of it. Pull the lining over this lump with allowances outward. Previously, allowances on rounded sections must be notched almost to the very seam. This must be done so that the allowance fits well and does not form wrinkles. Iron the seam allowances and steam well. 
Now we sew the lining to the hat. The allowances should be between the cap and the lining. Take your pad, right side in, insert the hat, and pin the overlapping tops of the pad and hats with a pin. 
Put the structure on your head, distribute the lining evenly. Most likely, on the front, it will be flush with the edge of the cap. And on the back of the head - it will stick out. This is fine. Pin the lining right on your head as it is. 
Further, without removing these pins, bend the allowance inward, fix it with pins and sew it with a mattress seam (pictured). 
That's all! Now you know how to sew a knitted hat lining! The hat is insulated, you are not afraid of cold winds! 
This morning I walked the dog and admired the first snow. In Moscow, it fell out only today. It was quiet, as if nature froze and enjoyed these huge white flakes. However, the idyll was broken by a cold and incredibly prickly wind blowing warmth from all places available to him. Including mine. Urgently needed! Actually about this and Master Class... On 4 hats, taking into account photographing, it took 3 hours
Lining for knitted hats without patterns
So, you will need fleece or brushed knitwear, any sewing machine, knitwear needles with a round tip, a hand needle, threads, tailor's chalk, scissors.
I have a warm brushed knit in stock. True, it has flowers on one side, but I will not tell my husband about the flowers
We take the hat for which we are going to sew the lining. fold the knitwear in two layers, facing inward. We put the hat on, and, pressing it well with the palm of our hand and, as it were, slightly flattening it, we outline the outline
We draw the second line in a centimeter from the outlined contour - seam allowances
We cut along the inner line with pins so that the layers of fabric do not crawl and cut out
Now we need to make two darts so that the top of the hat is beautifully shaped. Here is a small lyrical digression. I know many people cut 6 tugolniks and from them they already sew the lining. But for me, two halves with two short darts are
- faster
- fewer seams, which means less time
- for a baby's head, such a hat is more delicate
- less tissue consumption
As many as 4 arguments! In my opinion, more than enough Therefore, back to the darts. The darts go from the top of the head down. Between the middle of the darts 5-7cm. the length of the darts is 5-7 cm, the depth is 2-2.5 cm. I draw darts by eye and by hand, slightly bending the sides of the darts, so they are more anatomical.
In order to draw the same darts on another part of the lining, it is necessary to mark the edges of the darts with a cut and mark the top of the dart on the other side with the help of tailor's pins. Draw lines from the scattering to the top of the dart.
First we sew all the darts. By the way, since the solution of the tuck falls on the round part of the crown, the sides of the tuck will not coincide. This is as it should be, however, the incisions should be on the same line.
Iron the allowances of the darts inward and align the line of the crown
Next, we chop off the details of the lining with the front side inward (the pins are perpendicular to the seam, so as not to interfere with the course of the machine sewing) and grind the parts along the contour line of the cap. The seam is either a narrow zig-zag or a chain seam. I have a chain
Now we need to steam off the details. This requires a large towel. Make a lump out of it. Pull the lining over this lump with allowances outward. Previously, allowances on rounded sections must be notched almost to the very seam. This must be done so that the allowance fits well and does not form wrinkles. Press the allowances and steam well
Now we sew the lining to the hat. The allowances should be between the cap and the lining. Take your pad, right side in, insert the cap, and pin up the overlapping tops of the pad and hats.
Put the structure on the heads, distribute the lining evenly. Most likely on the front it will be flush with the edge of the cap. And on the back of the head - it will stick out. This is fine. Pin the lining right on your head as it is
That's all! Now you know, how to sew a lining for a knitted hat! The hat is insulated, you are not afraid of cold winds!
You can ask your questions in the comments to the article (authorization on the site is required; enter the same data as on the forum). Or find me on the forum
The shape of the lining is a cap without ears. The pattern is a one-piece fabric with five gussets at the top. Flat seams without hem. Shown by example.
The hat (upper knitted part) should be about 2 cm larger than the head in circumference and 0.5 cm higher than it - in order to accommodate the lining. The lining is cut exactly to the size of the head. If the fleece stretches well, then it is better to reduce the circumference by 1-2 cm and you can remove 1 cm in height (half a centimeter from it to the indent from the edge of the cap is mandatory, and another half centimeter due to the extensibility of the fleece is optional).
We make the lining quickly - without any special calculations and constructing patterns according to the formulas. We draw the pattern lines directly on the fabric, also for reasons of saving time. Since we make the seams flat (without turns and gaps), we do not add allowances for the seams. We will sew by hand.
1) Spread the fleece on a flat surface, aligning the cutting line (along the edge of the table, for example). We smooth it with our hands from the bottom edge (i.e. from the aligned line) in the opposite direction, so that the fabric fits well over the surface without bumps and distortions. The side should be aligned perpendicular to the bottom (it is convenient to use the corner of the table for orientation). We cut off about a centimeter of the edge of the canvas (it is usually with holes), if it gets into your cut.
2) Measure the circumference of the head across the canvas (i.e. so that the fleece stretches along this measurement).
3) We measure from the bottom line upward the height of the head minus the indent of the pad from the edge of the cap. And cut out a rectangle.
4) Fold it several times on the larger side for the desired number of wedges. I have 5. Usually from 4 to 6, sometimes 8 - the more wedges, the easier it is to make a round shape, but the more seams. For non-stretch fabric, more is better, but for fleece with a head, 5, even 4 are enough.
5) Mark the top of the future wedge along the top of the folded rectangle (divide the width by two). It is better to draw on the wrong side of course.
6) Then we mark the depth of the wedge - divide the head circumference by 6.28 (Pi multiplied by two - as in knitting a hat to calculate the radius of a circle). It is better to add another 1-3 cm to it, depending on the size of the head (for 50 cm - about 2 cm). This will make the top of the pad more rounded and also better fit the shape of the head.
7) To make it easier to draw the curved lines of the wedge, we will use an iron (I once met such advice on Osinka, thanks for it!). We apply it with its tip to the marked vertex and align its edge with a point on the side of the rectangle. My points coincided with the edges of the iron on both sides with its even symmetrical position - this is optional. Draw a line on this side of the fleece. Then we combine the vertex and the point on the other side and draw a second line. If the tip of the iron is dull, you can slightly lower the iron downward so that the corner comes out sharp.
8) On the right is the point of the exact radius of the circle of the cap, and on the left is a line with the point dropped by one and a half centimeters (with a head size of 44 cm). The curved line should go as smoothly as possible to the side edge of the rectangle.
9) We will cut along the drawn lines on the top layer of the fleece, so as not to draw them on other layers. At the same time, we pinch all the layers together with our fingers so that they do not move among themselves. It is undesirable to prick with needles, this violates the even lines of the edge. You can cut two or three layers together, and then cut the lower ones along the already cut line on the upper ones (pictured). It is difficult to cut everything straight away at once, many layers are usually skewed during the cutting process.
10) We check - all slices should go along the same line. If there are errors, we correct them.
11) Expand the canvas. We received a blank for the lining, it remains to sew.
12) The finished wedge exactly matches the shape of the iron. I think that for a five-blade one can not even mark the side points on the rectangle (photo 6), but simply attach the iron to the top point, perpendicular to the central axis of the iron to the upper side of the rectangle. You can only slightly make the lines more convex, although it probably still depends on the shape of the iron. Small errors in the cut will be covered by the good stretch of the fleece.
13) For sewing, it is necessary to combine all the upper corners of the wedges at one point (top of the cap), and also connect the lower points of the rectangle to each other (back seam). I sew the sections along the front side of the fleece with ordinary sewing thread in the color of the lining, folded twice. I always fasten the knot at the beginning so that it does not pop out through the fabric in the sock. To do this, I thread the needle through the canvas and, not reaching the end of the thread, I insert it through the remaining loop between the two threads from the knot (pictured). I pull the thread all the way. The knot is now securely fixed in this place (only the tails from the knot must be cut not under the knot itself, but at least a couple of millimeters further).
14) Sewing wedges is most convenient on something rounded. It is much heavier when suspended or unfolded. It is best to use a dummy or a dense ball of the required size (it is unlikely that it will work to sew on a balloon) - so that the lining does not hang on it, but fits around it like a head. This will make the seam easy to work with and not tight. We fasten the beginning of the wedge with needles (and along the back seam also the lower points and the middle) and sew from top to bottom. When sewing, I hold a short section of the seam slightly taut with two fingers of my left hand, leaning on the ball - so that the sections do not diverge and the seam comes out evenly in tension.
15-16) Sew with a flat seam without folds, joining two cuts end-to-end. To do this, on the right, near the edge, we take the needle from the face to the wrong side, draw it under the fabric over the edge of the left side and bring it to the face there. Then again, in the same way, we introduce the needle on the right side to the wrong side, while the thread to the new stitch is thrown over the sections. Don't worry about the edges crumbling - the edge of the fleece is practically unbreakable in the toe. Only step back about 4 mm from the edge so that the thread does not break off the fabric when pulled. It is not necessary to tighten the stitches too much so that the fabric lies exactly in the seam. But the loops should not sag either.
17) This is how finished seams look. If the thread is in tone, then the stitches are practically invisible. And if you take into account that the lining is still inside the cap, then the absence of a machine perfect line is not so important. It's more comfortable for me to sew the lining by hand than to take out and adjust the machine because of it. Moreover, not every machine will beautifully sew fleece without stretching the seam. And if such a lining is sewn into the hat with a machine, but there will be a line on the outside of the hat, which is absolutely not a plus for her. I am not ashamed of hand seams, even for sale, because they are handmade. Of course, everything must be done carefully.
18) The bumps at the bottom of the wedges will be the smaller, the smoother you bring the wedge line to the side edge of the rectangle. Small errors will disappear when stretching the pad on the head.
19-20) The lining is ready to be sewn into the hat.
21) We put the lining in the hat with the front side of the fleece inward (i.e. towards the head) and prick with needles along the edge. First we combine the back seams, then we look for the middle in the front on two canvases and combine them too. And then we prick a few more needles to evenly distribute the fabric over the hat.
22) The fleece lining, in contrast to the knitted lining, gathers in folds in this position, and it seems that there is a lot of excess there. But if you pull the cap on with two hands, it will straighten up enough and lie inside better. In order to more clearly assess the accuracy in the size of the lining, a hat with a pinned lining must be put on a dummy / ball of this size - everything will fall into place. If the height of the lining is clearly more than necessary (this happens due to the fact that the fleece stretches well) - cut off the excess along the bottom line.
23) Sew on the lining along the edge without hemming the fleece. To do this, in the direction from the edge of the cap, we pick up the purl of the posts with the needle (or any other part of them from the inside out) at the desired distance from the edge and insert the needle from the inside of the fleece onto the face, also slightly stepping back from its edge. You can sew the lining as close as possible to the edge of the cap (so that the yarn does not prick, for example), by inserting a needle under the purl of the harness. Then we repeat the stitch in the same direction every 2-3 mm (most often I make a stitch on each column, but if the yarn is thick, as here, then two stitches per column). At the same time, the thread for the new stitch lies over the connection line. Such a seam is also absolutely flat and will not put pressure on the forehead and ears.
24) Sew on the segment for placing the ears for the ties (if you did not cut them out on the fleece), focusing on the rows of columns - in a straight line.
25) In order for the lining to fidget less on the head and it was easier to put on the hat, we fasten the center of the knitted hat and the top of the lining with threads to match the knitted one. You can use sewing thread, monofilament, or split the yarn into finer threads. We make several stitches in the form of a sun through two layers, i.e. We insert the needle into the hole in the center (into the initial knitting ring) and between the two columns of the first row. Place the knots inside the header.
If, nevertheless, the lining came out too large in height, it can be whipped, shortened and sewn back.
26) This is what the finished seam looks like. As you can see, it is almost invisible.
27) Do not be confused by the lack of fleece on the ears for the ties. All the necessary fleece is already warm, the ears just cover the neck. The difference in the thickness of the fabric is visually invisible from the outside (like the sewing line). This means less fabric consumption and fewer unnecessary small residues. Of course, the ears can be finished when cutting in the right place and the lining can be sewn with them.
Surely a lot has been done wrong here in terms of professional sewing. But I just showed how I did it.
Fleece great for padding for two reasons. Firstly, the cut edge does not crumble and practically does not bloom, i.e. you can do without special processing of the cut with an overlock or the like. Secondly, for the most part, it stretches very well, which allows it to fit the head well and not tighten it, and even capture a larger range of sizes at the same length. Cutting it obliquely simply does not make sense, so it will probably even be worse. Another plus, again, because of its elasticity: even if you cut out not very well and somewhere there is a small error in the bends of the wedges or in size, everything on the head will stretch and fall into place.
There is really a denser fleece, I had such a two-sided color - it stretches less, it is better to cut it to size.
And it is also very pleasant to the body (as for me) - it is soft and does not prick. Although I have seen reviews that the head in it sweats.
The hat (upper knitted part) on the lining should be about 2 cm larger than the head circumference and 0.5-1 cm higher than necessary by the measurements of the head. You can sew a lining, put it on a child or a ball and measure over it by how much the size has increased.
The lining is cut exactly to the size of the head. If the fleece stretches well, then it is better to reduce the circumference by 1-3 cm (depending on the size of the head, 2 cm for about size 50) and you can remove a centimeter in height (i.e. half a centimeter to the indent from the edge - iron; another half cm by what stretches - at will).
I say right away - we make linden, but quickly and without problems. Without any special calculations and patterns. We cut immediately on the fabric, also for reasons of saving time.
Since we make the seams flat without twists, we cut absolutely no seam allowances. Flat seams do not look so neat, but they do not create bumps on the cap at the seams and absolutely do not put pressure on the head, lying on it with an even cloth. I sew with my hands. It is possible and on a typewriter with a zigzag or special connecting seams, but most of them stretch elastic fabrics in a line.
1) we grow the fleece fabric on a flat surface, leveling it along the line or edge of the table. We smooth it out with our hands from the line in the opposite direction so that the fabric fits well over the surface without bumps and distortions. We cut off about a centimeter along the edge of the canvas (it is usually with holes), if it gets into your cut.
2) across the canvas (that is, so that it stretches along this measurement) we measure the head circumference - I have 44 cm (you can minus 1 cm according to the advice above)
3) we measure the height of the head up minus the indent of the pad from the edge of the cap - I have 16 cm (minus half a cm as described above). And cut out a rectangle.
4) we fold it several times on the larger side for the desired number of wedges - I have it five times. Usually from 4 to 6, sometimes 8 - the more wedges, the easier it is to make a round shape, but the more seams. For non-stretch fabric, more is better, for fleece with a head, 5, even 4 are enough.
5) mark the top of the future wedge along the top of the folded rectangle (divide the width by two)
6) mark the depth of the wedge - divide the head circumference by 3.14 (pi) and another 2. This is the radius of the circle, which is usually knitted in a hat. It is better to add another 1-3 cm to it, depending on the size (for a 50 cm head - about 2 cm). This will make the top more rounded and will also fit the cap better, especially if there, after 12 cm, increments with even rows alternate.
7) we take an iron (I read this advice in the topic of hats, thanks, it came in handy!), Apply the tip to the top and align the edge with the lower marked point on the side of the rectangle. My iron almost fits in and the points coincide with its even symmetrical position - this is not necessary. We draw a line first along one side, we combine the other two points - and on the other. If the tip is dull, like mine, slightly lower the iron down. The line can be slightly bent outward if the iron has not very rounded sides.
8) I showed on the right a point of the exact radius and a line with the point dropped one and a half cm to the left. The curved line should go as smoothly as possible to the side face.
9) tightly holding the folded piece of fleece, cut out the drawn one. You can cut two or three layers together, and then the lower ones along the already cut line - everything is difficult to cut straight at once, the fabric is usually warped during the cutting process.
10) all slices must go along the same line
11) unfold, and we get a ready-made unstitched lining
12) I then fastened the lining with needles at the seams and put it on the ball (I forgot to take a picture) - I cut off the excess in the seams, adjusting it to the rounded shape of the ball. My wedges came out exactly the shape of an iron. But then I thought that this is not necessary, because the child's head is flatter on top than the roundness of the ball and the wedges may be more convex than I got.
13) I sew the sections with ordinary sewing thread folded in two. I always fasten the knot so that it does not pop out through the fabric in the sock. I pass the needle through the canvas and, without reaching the end of the thread, I pass the needle through the remaining loop and tighten. The knot will be firmly held in one place.
14) it is best to sew on something rounded. Do not sew on weight! Be sure to put something - this will make the seam easy to perform and not taut. It's dumb on the balloon, but on the ball (or whoever has happiness - a dummy) is it. We fasten the beginning of the wedge (and along the back seam the end and the middle) with needles and sew. When sewing, I pull with two fingers, leaning on the ball, a section for sewing and in this position I sew between them.
15) we sew with a flat seam - simply joining two parts. Do not be afraid that the edges will crumble, the edge of the fleece is practically not broken in the sock. Only step back about 4 mm from the edge so that the thread does not break off the fabric when pulled.
16) it is not necessary to tighten too much so that the fabric lies exactly in the seam. But the loops should not sag either.
17) this is how the finished seams look. If the thread is in tone, then they are practically invisible.
18) the bumps at the bottom of the wedges will be the smaller, the smoother you bring the wedge line to the side edge of the rectangle. Small errors will hide on the head.
19) top view of the lining
20) side view
21) put the lining in the hat with the front side inward (i.e. towards the head) and prick with needles. First we combine the back seams, then we look for the middle in the front into two components and combine, too, and then a few more needles to evenly distribute the fabric over the hat.
22) the fleece lining, in contrast to the knitted lining, gathers in folds in this position, and it seems that there is a lot of excess there. But when you pull a hat on two hands, it straightens up enough and fits better inside. Even clearer when you put it on a ball - everything falls into place. If the height of the lining is clearly greater than what is needed, cut off the excess along the bottom line.
23) we sew along the edge without hem - grabbing the purl of the posts (or any other place) and slightly stepping back from the edge of the fleece. Such a seam is also absolutely flat and will not put pressure on the forehead and ears. Looks fine - it's inside. I'm not ashamed of hand seams, even for sale. You can't do that with a typewriter.
24) in the place of the ears / ties (if you did not cut them out on the fleece) we sew, focusing on the rows of columns in a straight line
25) so that the lining does not fidget on the head, we fasten the middle of the knitted cap and the top of the lining with threads of the same tone as the knitted one - piercing through two layers with several stitches. We make a knot inside the cap. If, nevertheless, the lining came out too large in height, it can be ripped off, shortened and sewn back.
26) this is what the finished seam looks like. As you can see, it is almost invisible.
27) don't be confused by the lack of fleece on the ears / ties. Fleece warms everything you need. The difference is externally imperceptible from the outside. This means less fabric consumption and fewer unnecessary small residues. If desired, the ears just need to be drawn when cutting in the right place (I will show it even later using the example of other pads)
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Hi. In order not to freeze my ears, I sewed a lining for a knitted hat. I used fleece: as a very suitable material for this purpose.
The fleece stretches better in one direction and worse in the other. The one in which it stretches, I use it across.
Obviously, I measure my head, you can measure the hat, correlate the sizes, cut off the bigger one. To estimate the hats on the owner, adjust and sew a rectangle with a calm heart.
I have two whole seams, it just so happened, I made from the remnants. Sewed on an overlock, but the fleece is such a great material that you don't need to overcast and sew by hand.
I measure the length on the cap, from which the narrowing will go. And the overall length. In the photo below, these are horizontal lines.
Verticals - midpoint and midpoint marks. Who understood - well done.
Figured out the wedges. The secret of an even wedge is to substitute and circle the iron. Mine turned out to be too narrow, so it didn't work out very smoothly.
Ripping off
Unfold and chop
I equalize the lengths. If the lining is sewn with a fold-over edge, then it should be slightly longer than the cap. If without a gate, then you can level.
I sewed on without a fold, stepping back from the edge of the cap. I didn’t turn it up, because the hat is rather thin and such a transition would be noticeable from the outside.
I sew it by hand so that it is invisible from the front side.
