Sewing machine pfaff malfunction. Pfaff user manual. Setting up and repairing Brother sewing machines

Difficult repair of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced craftsman. But such repairs are rarely made, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and it needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine begins to "be capricious" if the rules for its operation specified in the instructions are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not observed.

The main reason leading to the failure of the sewing machine is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of the sewing machine. Hemming the double hem of jeans, changing the zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

The main part of the sewing machine is the needle

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its "life" it makes thousands of tissue punctures and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the point of the needle becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle "hits" the metal part of the body of the machine, then the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, are we paying attention to it? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How will such a point pierce the fabric? The only way is to break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing in the eye of the needle will cling to the curved point, and "slow down", forming an excess of the upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason for the appearance of loops in the line. Moreover, a bent point will cause the thread to break periodically, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the upper thread is stretched to the limit.

It turns out that sometimes the entire repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly does not have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
Used needles do not need to be thrown away, as there are situations when needles break one after another, for example when sewing a leather bag. That's when you remember about the jar of old needles.

Another reason for setting up a sewing machine, especially old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar. The blade of the needle (Fig. B) should be on the side of the nose of the hook. Remove the needle plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly began to loop and tear the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. The household needle has a special saw cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is precisely the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the shuttle nose and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and can touch the surface of the hook, scratch it, and even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Outwardly, the needle cannot be determined whether it is curved or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

In order for the sewing machine to work more "confidently" with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced that are designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and facilitate the passage of the thread in the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in the stitch and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

Thread looping in the line, as well as a characteristic knock during their work, is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters on your own without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often, children love to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the Chaika sewing machine quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass, it should not have nicks, rusty spots. If there are notches, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the traces of the file, and loops will appear from below. Just do it carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the nose of the shuttle.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bottom thread is wound around it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the nodes, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are notched, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread lint, the lower thread will come out in jerks, and the upper thread in the line will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly adjusted. You tighten it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread linters have accumulated, which prevent the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner fastening (Seagull) may have loosened.

But still, most often for sewing machines such as Chaika, the parameters of the shuttle and the needle fail. This is a complex type of repair of a sewing machine, or rather a setting, but for general acquaintance it is desirable to know the main reason due to which all the "trouble" of sewing machines occurs.

Fixing the needle bar and tensioner

The most common cause of sewing machine failure is the top thread. Thread breakage, thread winding in the stitch, uneven stitching, gaps, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even “falls out” of the case.

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing the zigzag stitch Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1 ... 2 (3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This setting is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle points (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The nose of the hook must simultaneously pass almost close to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10 socket wrench, and holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.

However, this is not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the shuttle nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle starts to rise up. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when it rises by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet with the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as a right and left needle prick. With the left and right injection of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should "confidently" remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should extend just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work fine with such gaps, but if it is necessary to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only the master can set.

Care and lubrication of the sewing machine

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be needed if the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overloading during work, not give it into "the wrong" hands, which means that the sewing machine will break down less often.

After a long period of work, clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, lint, and oil stains. Periodically, the shuttle itself, the shuttle mechanism, should be cleaned with a hard hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubrication, work on it a little “idle”, especially if the machine has not been used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into the nodes and friction points.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a dry, cool place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, keep it away from dust, otherwise the dust oil will harden and the machine will turn hard or even jam. This case is discussed in the article

The main, typical malfunctions and malfunctions in the operation of sewing machines: poor stitching, thread breakage, needle breakage.
Skipped stitches in the stitching of the sewing machine and overlock appear if a poor-quality, unsuitable thread or needle is used. The amount of clearance between the needle and the nose of the hook (the loopers in the overlocker) also has an effect on this.
Faults such as "skew stitch", breakage of the upper and lower threads can usually be corrected by adjusting the tension of both threads. But, if after adjusting the tension, the stitching defects do not disappear, then you will have to adjust the interaction of the shuttle and the needle, the mechanism for advancing the fabric, etc. This is especially true for the Seagull sewing machine. Moreover, if the installation parameters of the "Seagull" shuttle have gone astray, then it is rather difficult to independently perform such an adjustment. But basically eliminate malfunctions and malfunctions of sewing machines can be done by properly adjusting the thread tension, changing the needle, lubricating and cleaning the machine.

After disassembly, the upper thread tensioner is not properly assembled.
- Incorrect threading.
- Poor thread quality.
- The thread number does not match the needle number.
- Weakened bobbin case lock spring.
Inside the bobbin case you can find a very small screw, and if you unscrew it, the lock mechanism can be removed and a long spring can be found. Try to stretch this spring a little, but it is better to buy a new bobbin case.
- On the way the thread passes to the needle, there are notches, burrs.
Carefully follow the path of the thread and, after detecting notches, remove them with a small needle file. In older machines such as Podolsk, there may be thread cuts on the tensioner rod. Disassemble the tensioner and inspect the rod, if there are such cuts, remove them with sandpaper.

2. Reasons for the breakage of the lower thread

The reason for the breakage of the lower thread may be low-quality thread, for example, cotton thread of the Soviet era.
- The screw that presses the spring (plate) on the bobbin case protrudes excessively.
The bobbin thread tension is often adjusted, and sharp notches appear on the head of the screw. The lower thread, wrapping around the bobbin case, clings to them and breaks.
- The bobbin thread tension is too tight in the bobbin case.
- Notches on the edges of the bobbin.
The thread gets caught between the bobbin and the walls of the bobbin case and breaks. Change the bobbins as soon as the first nicks and chips appear.
- The edges of the bobbin are bent, there are gouges from the needle and notches.

3. Looping the lower and upper threads. bad line

The thread is not evenly wound on the spool and bobbin. Do not wind the thread on the bobbin by hand, use a special device for this. Even thread placement on the bobbin ensures the same even thread coming off. A hand-wound thread can be pinched by other turns and pull the upper thread more than it should. As a result, loops appear from below.

Dirt or lint, thread trimmings have fallen under the leaf spring of the bobbin case.
- A slot has formed under the leaf spring on the bobbin case. This happens after many years of intense operation of the sewing machine. Failures of the bobbin case should not be repaired by yourself, except for cleaning and adjusting the thread tension. The best solution for troubleshooting a bobbin case is to buy a new bobbin case.
- Weak tension on both threads.
- Strong tension on both threads.

4. Poor tissue advance

Weak foot pressure.
- The sole of the foot is skewed and does not press the entire surface of the fabric.
- Rack teeth are dull.
- is set to embroidery mode or the teeth of the feed dog are too low and do not hook the fabric well. The correct position of the teeth when sewing medium thickness fabrics: when the feed dog is raised from the needle plate to the maximum, the teeth should be fully raised, but not higher than the height of the teeth. Too high of their position will form a "fit" of the fabric or pull it together.

5. Causes of needle breakage

The needle number does not match the thread number or fabric thickness.
- The needle is bent.
- The needle is not fully inserted into the needle bar.
- The needle does not pass through the center of the needle hole in the plate. The needle must pass exactly in the center of the hole in the needle plate. Make sure that the needle does not touch the feed dog while operating the sewing machine. An incorrect needle position may be caused by a bent needle bar.
- The needle bar is set too low or too high.
- Wrong sewing. While sewing, do not pull the fabric with your hand, find the reason why the machine does not feed the fabric well. Adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric.

6. Skipped stitches

The needle is too high when meeting with the nose of the hook, and it does not catch the needle loop. See Chaika sewing machine hook operation setting.
- The needle is bent or the point of the needle is dull.
A curved needle can be determined in the light by twisting it on a flat and dark plane.
- The needle is not set as far as it will go, or the wrong way round.
- Using a different type of needle for this sewing machine. Often, industrial-style needles are used in household sewing machines. They do not have a saw cut on the flask and are absolutely not intended for such machines.
- The settings for the interaction of the needle and the hook have been misadjusted.

In this video, you will find out the reason for the costly sewing machine repair caused by a broken toothed drive belt. You will also learn recommendations on how to avoid this breakdown of the sewing machine.

If the foot drive, one might say, is a complete antique, then the hand drive can be used, especially for beginners to learn to sew. To learn how to repair this device yourself, read this article.

The main malfunctions and malfunctions of these sewing machines, as a rule, are not related to its adjustment. Sometimes it is enough to set the needle correctly, replace low-quality threads, select the correct tension of the lower and upper threads and the machine will work perfectly again.

Breakage of the needle at the sewing machine is a sign that it requires "serious" adjustment, adjustment. But, often, setting up the sewing machine is not required, it is enough to stop pulling the fabric while sewing. The second common cause of needle breakage is sewing thick fabrics that are not intended for sewing on this model of sewing machine.

Skips occur due to the fact that the nose of the shuttle "meeting" with the needle does not capture the upper thread from it. Either it is located far from the needle (large gap), or the loop of the upper thread is formed too early or late, or too small. That's all the reasons, simple, isn't it? It remains only to find out why this happens and how to fix these malfunctions.

The line winds, which means that the upper thread "slows down" during the movement and its excess appears. There are many reasons for this, ranging from the uneven thickness of the thread itself, ending with the shuttle. Start by carefully following the path of the thread. Perhaps she just clings to the small notch of the thread guide.

Rarely, but sometimes you can find machines with a foot drive. The best solution is to install an electric drive on the machine instead of repairing the drive. This is done quite simply and anyone who has a screwdriver can install it with their own hands. But, if you need recommendations on how to repair, adjust the foot drive, this article is at your service.

Malfunctions and malfunctions of the sewing machine it will be easier to eliminate if you understand how the sewing machine works, and what part is used for what. Study carefully the device of your typewriter according to the instructions or using our article.

The machine must be lubricated at least once a year. But do not fill it with plenty of oil. Oil tends to dry out over time, and the resulting clots of dried oil can cause some sewing machine malfunctions.

The bobbin is the very inconspicuous detail that no one pays attention to. And it is she who is the cause of many malfunctions and malfunctions of the sewing machine. You can disassemble the entire machine without finding the reason for the "winding" of the line. And it is worth replacing the bobbin with a new, smooth and light one, and the line will be even and beautiful.

A sewing machine needs lubrication like oil for your machine's engine. But we take care of the car and wash it with shampoo almost every week. Why not then wipe the body of the sewing machine from dust, brush its internal mechanisms with a brush so that they are clean and dry, without traces of oil and lint from the threads.

Once a week, I always get a call and a completely upset girl's voice informs me that the freshly bought machine has completely broken down and does not want to sew.

1. The most common "problem" - the car suddenly starts to wind strongly. From below, loops 2 centimeters long are formed, they are wound on a shuttle and everything gets terribly tangled. Simple logic tells the young lady that, since the loops are from below, then there is a problem with the bottom thread. After that, there is advice on the Internet about adjusting the lower thread and the winged fairy spins the bobbin case, the parts are scattered on the floor, and a sobbing, trembling voice is heard in my receiver.

If the bobbin case did not unwind, then the situation can be easily saved. All you need is fill the top a thread.

The trouble is that in many instructions the procedure for threading the upper thread into the thread take-up is not very clearly described. The general principle of refueling is easiest to understand on the page from the instructions for Pfaff 1142:

The most important thing here is to raise the presser foot, turn the handwheel so that the thread take-up is in the up position and thread the thread into the thread take-up.

If the machine still makes giant loops on the wrong side, check the threading again. More than once I met ladies who swore by all the treasures of the world that everything was threaded correctly, that she had been sewing for a hundred years and could not make a mistake, and upon arrival, our specialist found that the thread did not get into the thread take-up. After that, the ladies turned very red in the face, apologized very much and shoved a hundred rubles for the trouble.

Proper threading can cut off 99% of cases of strong winding on the wrong side. The remaining percentage may indeed be due to a malfunction of the machine. Usually this effect is caused by burrs on the needle plate or in the hook, and this problem is best addressed to a qualified mechanic.

2. The second "problem" often occurs with buyers of the Janome MyExcel w23u machine. The symptoms of a breakdown are as follows - the LED does not light up and the needle lift button does not work.

Such a “malfunction” is treated very simply - it is necessary to transfer the bobbin winder axis to the left position.

Another common question is related to the winder - why does the bobbin not snap off at the end of winding? Having got used to such behavior of the winder on the "Seagull", the buyer waits for a click and presses the pedal with all his might. However, in most modern machines, the bobbin does not come loose. As it winds, the speed of rotation simply slows down and the winder stops.

3. Often, owners of Janome 7518a (1221, etc.) machines turn to us with the question “Why is the machine sewing slowly and growling loudly?”.

These cars have a switch on the pedal that limits the maximum speed. You can accidentally press it with your foot and not notice it. If the car growls at you, just check the position of this switch.

4. If the stitching turns out to be “loose”, there is no tension on the upper thread, pronounced loops are visible from the inside, and the lower thread is taut with a string - rethread the machine with the foot raised. Perhaps the thread did not get into the tensioner plates. Another reason is that a piece of thread or other debris has got into the tensioner plates and prevents them from getting closer. With the presser foot raised, try to clean the space between the plates with a thick thread.

If the bobbin thread tension is lost, check for debris under the tension spring on the bobbin case (bobbin holder). Do not attempt to clean under this plate with a needle or other metal object. Scratch the shuttle - you are tormented to repair. Better take a toothpick.

5. I have two favorite questions - why the stitch is herringbone and why you can see the "dots" from the upper thread. There is only one answer to these questions - you need to use threads of the appropriate thickness.

I like the seams on my shirts. Smooth, straight, just admire. Now you can see what kind of thread a good men's shirt is sewn with and compare their thickness with the "magpie" from the store. It turns out that the threads on the shirt are twice as thin. At the same time, the shirt fabric is not the thinnest yet. The problem is that on sale it is very difficult to find high-quality threads with a thickness less than #50. On suit fabrics and with a stitch length of 3 millimeters, the "magpie" gives the perfect stitch on almost any machine. And if you try to sew thin silk with a needle No. 90, threads No. 40 and stitches 1.5 mm long, the “Christmas tree” will appear in all its glory, regardless of the design of the shuttle.

The “herringbone” must be on any lockstitch machine, since the upper and lower threads are intertwined with a “cord”. It is enough to mentally remove the fabric from the seam and imagine how the threads are intertwined, it becomes obvious where the “herringbone” comes from. The herringbone becomes almost invisible if the weave of threads is formed deep between the layers of the fabric, and for this the thread should be no thicker than the warp thread. Also, the visibility of the Christmas tree is affected by the length of the stitch. It is possible (on industrial machines) to reduce the visibility of the “herringbone” on the front side, if you turn the needle a little around its axis, but then the “tree” will become more noticeable on the inside.

6. Pulling of the fabric when sewing zigzag and decorative stitches is also not a malfunction. It is impossible to cancel the laws of physics, and if you try to perform a wide zig-zag “magpie” on a thin and loose fabric, then only an adhesive stabilizer will help to avoid contraction. You can, of course, try to loosen the tension of both threads and take thinner threads, but the radical way is a stabilizer.

7. Knocking when sewing at the moment of a puncture is in most cases caused by a dull or inappropriate needle. The correct choice of needles is especially important when sewing from dense fabrics. A universal needle with a rounded point cannot part the tightly interwoven fibers of the material, and punches a hole with a thud. For such fabrics, it is necessary to have in stock sharp needles marked Jeans and Microtex. After replacing the needle, the knock, in most cases, disappears.

8. Another "problem" that buyers regularly encounter is the lack of a buttonhole foot in the kit. Finding it is easy - it lies separately from the main set of paws, in a removable table under a hinged lid. Janome overlockers often "lose" the converter for double-thread seams. It is poorly packaged in a bag, separate from other personal belongings, and hangs on a pin for installing coils.
Husqvarna Emerald computer machines sometimes lose an entire pedal! The manufacturer has provided for it a convenient place inside the case.

9. I also remembered the “problem” with turning off the teeth of the fabric conveyor. The teeth are perfectly turned off by the corresponding switch, they fall down, but they don’t want to come back, no matter how many times you click the buttons. The casket opens simply - the conveyor teeth will rise to the working position after a full turn of the flywheel. Just flip the switch back and start sewing.

If I remember something interesting, I'll add it here.

Many malfunctions sewing machines are quite common and can be considered as typical. Work failures sewing machine often caused by improper use. Sometimes malfunctions sewing machines appear in the same way, although they are caused by completely different reasons. Therefore, it is logical to classify them according to external manifestations, which are easily determined even by non-specialists.

Often breaking sewing machine is that it ceases to perform its functions correctly: break down needles, threads break, stitches are uneven (skipped stitches, insufficient thread tension, uneven stitches). There can be several reasons for these troubles:

• Use of needles not intended for this type sewing machine. The needle may not match the thread thickness or fabric weight. As a result, the needle will either break, or bend. In this case, you should choose the right one for your sewing machine needles. Using threads that are not designed for the needles installed on your typewriter, or for the fabrics you work with. Each type of needle requires a certain thickness of threads, if this ratio is not chosen correctly, the seam will not be tight enough or the needles will start break.
• Broken needle plate. If the damage to the plate is minor, then you can limit yourself to grinding the window of the needle plate. If malfunction more severe, the needle plate will need to be replaced.
• The settings of the mechanism that causes the needle to lower and rise and move the thread take-up are knocked down. (This mechanism is located on the upper shaft sewing machines.) Correctly adjusting the mechanism on your own is very difficult, since it is connected to the shuttle through the shafts. The slightest deviation from the settings leads to failures in operation sewing machine.
• Breaking shuttle nest. At breakdown shuttle nest car stops sewing, the thread will constantly break.

Other group typical faults associated with the failure of the motor in electrical sewing machines. They appear in sewing machine does not turn on, the motor does not work, there may be a smell of burning. The main reasons for the failure of the motor:

• Wire break
• Motor winding break
• Malfunction packet worker

In electronic sewing machines automation may fail. Manifested malfunction thus: the motor does not turn on, car does not work, while the smell of burning is absent. The most common reasons:

• Failure of the built-in computer sewing machine
• Failure of the control unit sewing machine

In these cases, details repair And restoration not applicable, they need to be replaced.

Sewing machines

Broken sewing machine

Is your sewing machine broken? What to do?

In the event of a breakdown during the warranty period, you can repair the sewing machine free of charge at an authorized service center. Phones and addresses of service centers are indicated in the warranty card. Do not repair your sewing machine yourself. Warranties do not apply to products that have not been repaired at a service center.

In order to repair the sewing machine, it is enough to present a correctly completed warranty card, which is issued upon purchase of the product (with a mark of the trade organization on the date of sale of the sewing machine and with the signature of the seller).

Service engineer call

Calling a service engineer to any district of Moscow. Order and delivery spare parts For sewing machine to the customer. Urgent call. Cash and non-cash payment for sewing machine repair for private clients and organizations. .

Diagnostics and repair of sewing machines

scope of work and repair cost can only be determined after sewing machine diagnostics. In case of successful completion repair, price diagnostics included in repair cost. If car repair impossible to perform pay behind diagnostics will not be taken.

Sewing machine repair price list

Look prices on diagnostics And sewing machine repair. If sewing machine repair impossible to perform pay behind diagnostics not charged. In case of successful completion repair, price sewing machine diagnostics will be included in repair cost.

Contacts and directions.

Moscow, Central Administrative District, Gilyarovskogo street, 36. (M. Prospekt Mira)

680-58-56 680-61-45

Repair shop Multiservice.

Main activities repair shop.
Conclusion of contracts with organizations.
Sewing machine repair for cash and non-cash payments.
Rating repair shop.

Urgent call to home and office

Urgent help sewing machine at home. Urgent call. Departure of the master to any district of Moscow. Ordering supplies for home delivery. Troubleshooting. Cash and non-cash payment for private clients and organizations.

Help for sewing machine users

Help in at a construction site sewing machines
Troubleshooting in sewing machine. Useful tips for sewing machine repair. Consultations.
Electromechanical sewing machines- simple and very comfortable cars allowing you to master without the hassle sewing. This inexpensive Class sewing machines, all controlled manually, by means of mechanical switches. Instead of smooth adjustments length And width stitch multiple fixed positions uncomfortable adjustment thread tension. All clues can be found on the case sewing machine, the threading of the upper and lower threads is simplified, instructions are needed only in difficult cases. All seams that can perform sewing machine, printed on the front panel. Turning the wheel can choose a seam and install the necessary settings sewing machine (length And width stitch, thread tension). Adjustment length stitch And width zigzag. You can change how length chosen by you stitch, and width zigzag. Quality straight stitch higher at sewing machines with horizontal type shuttle. Besides, sewing machines of such a type sew much quieter.

Terms of the sewing world

Subject index of sewing subjects.

Setting up and repairing Toyota sewing machines

Toyota Sewing Machine Repair

Company Toyota started its activity from the production sewing machines. Emblem Toyota means the thread passed through the eye of the needle. Continuing to produce sewing equipment high quality company Toyota constantly expanding the range sewing machines. Sewing machines Toyota fully comply with the "philosophy of quality and usability" inherent in the trademark Toyota. Sewing machines Toyota with classic or swing hook, quantity sewing operations depending on the model - 14-20. Setting up Toyota sewing machines Toyota Sewing Machine Repair Adjusting sewing machines Toyota. Pedal for sewing machine Toyota. Sewing machine belt Toyota. Toyota.

Setting up and repairing Brother sewing machines

Brother sewing machine repair

Sewing machines economy - class have 6-14 operations, seams are provided for knitwear, for thick fabrics, sewing on elastic. More expensive models Brother Prestisch, Comfort perform 17-25 operations, can overcast a decorative scalloped edge, knitwear, have a set of decorative stitches. Setting up Brother sewing machines. Brother sewing machine repair in the workshop "Multiservice". Setting up Brother sewing machines. Sewing machine pedal Brother. Sewing machine belt Brother. Electric motor for sewing machine Brother.

Juki Sewing Machine Repair

Broken Juki sewing machine? What to do?

In the event of a breakdown during the warranty period, you can have the machine repaired free of charge at an authorized Juki service center. Phones and addresses of Juki service centers are indicated in the warranty card.

What is needed to repair a faulty sewing machine at a service center?

In order to repair the sewing machine, it is enough to present a correctly completed Juki warranty card, which is issued upon purchase of the product.

Setting up and repairing Janome sewing machines

Janome Sewing Machine Repair

Models of this brand are designed for home sewing. Sewing machines Janome easy to use, have a small number of operations (from 4 to 12 types of lines). For more complex work, there are machines for 15-25 operations (semi-automatic overcasting of buttonholes, adjustment of pressure on the fabric are provided). The New Home brand is currently owned by the largest manufacturer of household sewing machines in the world, Janome Sewing Machines Co. L.T.D. Setting up Janome sewing machines. Janome Sewing Machine Repair in the workshop "Multiservice". Setting up Janome sewing machines. Sewing machine pedal Janome. Sewing machine belt Janome. Electric motor for sewing machine Janome.

Setting up and repairing Veritas sewing machines

Veritas sewing machine repair

Veritas sewing machines were produced by the GDR.

Setting up Veritas sewing machines. Veritas sewing machine repair in the workshop "Multiservice". Setting up Veritas sewing machines. Spare parts To sewing machine Veritas. Sewing machine pedal Veritas. Sewing machine belt Veritas. Electric motor for sewing machine Veritas.

Setting up and repairing Jasmine sewing machines

Jasmine Sewing Machine Repair

Setting up Jasmine sewing machines. Jasmine Sewing Machine Repair in the workshop "Multiservice". Setting up Jasmine sewing machines. Sewing machine pedal Jasmine. Sewing machine belt Jasmine.

Setting up and repairing Pfaff sewing machines

Pfaff sewing machine repair

Pfaff sewing machine repair in the workshop "Multiservice". Sewing machines pfaff produced at a factory in the Czech Republic. They provide 16-27 operations, smooth adjustment of seams, foot pressure, needle position, stitch selection button. These models are intended for experienced seamstresses seriously involved sewing deed.

Setting up Pfaff sewing machines

Settings And adjustments sewing machines pfaff are so flexible that they allow you to easily set the desired parameters for one or another sewing program. Setting up Pfaff sewing machines. Pedal for sewing machine pfaff. Sewing machine belt pfaff.

Setting up and repairing Jaguar sewing machines

Jaguar Sewing Machine Repair

One of the most famous brands sewing machines - Jaguar(Taiwan). These cars do 5-13 operations, semi-automatic overcasting of loops, decorative and finishing seams. For comfort seamstresses additionally supplied with a hard table. Setting up Jaguar sewing machines. Jaguar Sewing Machine Repair in the workshop "Multiservice". Setting up Jaguar sewing machines. Spare parts To sewing machine Jaguar. Sewing machine pedal Jaguar. Sewing machine belt Jaguar. Electric motor for sewing machine Jaguar.

Setting up and repairing Singer sewing machines

Singer Sewing Machine Repair

For over 150 years the company Singer is a world leader in the production of quality and reliable sewing technology. Producing a wide range of products from electromechanical to computer sewing machines, company Singer maintains the traditions laid down in 1851 by its founder - Isaac Singer. cars, made a century and a half ago, still work perfectly. Modern models are very convenient and easy to manage, perform from 5 to 18 operations, including hemming with a blind seam, make elastic knitted seams, reinforced seams for denim and corduroy fabrics. Setting up Singer sewing machines. Singer Sewing Machine Repair in the workshop "Multiservice". Setting up Singer sewing machines. Spare parts To sewing machine Singer. Sewing machine pedal Singer. Sewing machine belt Singer. Electric motor for sewing machine Singer.