Overcast seams with a presser foot. The overlock foot is a real helper when sewing. Sewing machine feet with aliexpr

01.02.2023

How to use the overlock foot? Is it worth buying? How is the overlock foot different from the regular foot? Can this foot be used for knitted fabrics? All this will be discussed in this article.

In order for the product to have a finished, neat look, its sections are processed with an overlock stitch. But not everyone has the opportunity to purchase a full-fledged overlock machine for this purpose. And many people simply do not need an overlock, especially for those who are not professional at sewing. For whom sewing is just a favorite hobby. In this case, you can think about an alternative - purchase a special foot for overcasting cuts. Before making a purchase decision, you need to find out about the advantages and disadvantages of this wonderful device.

First of all, it should be noted that the overlock foot cannot replace a full-fledged overlock machine or another machine for processing the edge of the product. It's all about the difference in stitch formation on a sewing machine and an overlocker. When processing a cut on a sewing machine, only two threads are used, and on an overlock, from 3 to 5 threads. Obviously, overlock processing will look more aesthetically pleasing, and the seam itself will be stronger.

Before buying an overlock foot, you should know that the foot itself does not overlock. Namely, if your machine only sews a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch, then the presser foot will not sew a different stitch. But still, the overlock foot is suitable for almost any sewing machine equipped with a zigzag stitch.

Even if your sewing machine is equipped with dozens of types of decorative stitches, it will only imitate an overlock stitch. Also, not all sewing machines can use overlock feet. When processing knitwear, such a foot can, of course, be used. It improves the quality of processing, but still does not allow to fully maintain the extensibility of the fabric, and this is a very important point. A competent choice of stitch parameters is a necessary condition for using such a foot. When attaching the overlock foot, some sewing machines require a special adapter. This information can be clarified in the service center or in a specialized store.

Despite all this, the overlock foot has many advantages:

The overlock foot will help you to make a more accurate cut, in particular for knitwear and delicate fabrics. On the foot there is a special metal plate that guides the fabric, which prevents twisting and tightening of the processed edge. And the guide plate will help you move smoothly along the cut.

With the help of the overlock foot, you can make various finishing stitches, including the “Moscow” seam on thin and delicate fabrics. For beginner tailors, one of the advantages of the overlock foot is that the guide on it helps to do it. The foot prevents the fabric from shrinking, which often happens when sewing delicate fabrics. The overlock foot simplifies the blindhem process. Another advantage is the ease of use of the foot, because to start sewing, it is enough to install it and set the desired type of stitching.

Now let's take a closer look at how to use the overlock foot.

Before starting work, make sure that the needle does not touch the edges of the presser foot. On some sewing machines, you can move the needle to a different position.

Note: When choosing a needle, thread, stitch type, it takes into account the properties of the fabric and the peculiarity of the product model. Before using the overlock foot on the finished product, experiment with different types of stitches on an unnecessary piece of fabric from which the model is sewn.

Install the overlock foot.

For example, we select the lines "Zigzag", "Overlock" or any other overcasting line or hidden.

Thread tension: 1 - 4

Stitch length: 1 - 2 (zigzag)

Stitch width: 4 - 6

We try and choose the best stitch option, thread tension and stitch width for this type of fabric.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that the overlock foot performs high-quality stitching and can be used on various types of sewing machines. And if you do not plan to purchase an overlock, then the overcasting foot will become a wonderful assistant in sewing. Unlike overlock, the foot does not take up much space and is not at all expensive. We wish you good luck in sewing and creative mood!

From this video you will learn how to use the overlock foot, its advantages and disadvantages, and how the overlock foot differs from the usual one. Enjoy watching!

Not every needlewoman knows how wide the range of feet is and what possibilities they offer. The sewing machine comes with up to 12 types of feet. In fact, there are ten times more of them. Let's get to know them better.

A standard foot is installed on any sewing machine, with its help a straight and zigzag seam is performed, changing the width and length of the stitch. However, in sewing and needlework there are many other operations that require a different and more delicate approach - sewing on buttons and trim, sewing in “lightning” and so on. For each of them there is a foot that facilitates this process. Special feet are also created for fabrics of different textures - thin, stretchy, coarse. It is difficult to work with them on a simple foot, but on a special foot it is quick and easy.

The most common paws

Sewing foot
lightning

Sewing foot
hidden zipper

Sewing foot
cords

Piping foot
oblique trim

Let's start with the feet, which facilitate the most common operations - sewing, sewing in zippers, sewing on buttons, sewing seams, trimming a product with a trim or cord.

Standard or zigzag foot

This is an all-purpose foot that is used for sewing most fabrics and seams. With its help, two types of seam are performed - a straight line and a zigzag. The foot is used most often, and some even manage to sew a zipper with it, not realizing that there is a special foot for this purpose.

Paws for lightning are single-sided, double-sided and narrow, they are plastic, metal, Teflon. Their task is to help the needle to make an even seam at the same distance from the edge of the "zipper" without turning the product "back and forth". It is necessary to choose a foot taking into account the model of the sewing machine.

Hidden zipper foot

This foot allows you to sew a hidden zipper into the seam of the product. It has special grooves in which the teeth of the fastener are in a fixed position, which allows you to lay a straight stitch close to the fastener. As a result, a hidden "lightning" is easily, quickly and accurately sewn to the product.

Simple finishing of the edges of the fabric is also possible on the regular zigzag foot, but the special overlock foot makes this work easier and the stitching even and neat. The main feature of the foot is a bar that increases the length of the overcasting thread. A special “wider” protects the edge of the fabric from contraction, and a restrictive plate installed on the foot makes it possible to lay overcasting (overlock) lines as evenly as possible relative to the cut. There are overlock feet with a knife that cut and finish the edge at the same time.

Foot for sewing on a cord

The foot has guides that guide the cord along the fabric, and the needle evenly stitches on its surface. The foot has special holes for cords, decorative threads - floss, lurex, etc., and is designed for decorating products. Various decorative stitches can be used when sewing cords.

Bias binding foot

The foot grips the bias trim and distributes the top and bottom of the bias tape evenly on both sides of the fabric. At the same time, it provides an even line at the same distance from the edge. Before work, it is required to fold the inlay along in half, tighten it into the guide paws and, together with the product, stretch it under the foot.

Button foot

This foot has a button hole where the button is secured to the fabric. In order for the needle to hit exactly into the holes, it is necessary to set the desired width of the zigzag stitch and turn off the lower conveyor. Work begins to be done at a slow manual pace, lowering the needle first into the left hole, and then into the right. After that, the button is sewn in automatic mode by pressing the pedal. The foot is used not only for buttons, but also for hooks and other similar fasteners.

Blindstitch foot

Some sewers still hem skirts or trousers by hand. Although there is a special foot that does an excellent job with this task. By pressing the pedal, such a blind stitch is performed automatically without much effort. A blind stitch foot should be in every seamstress's arsenal.

Roll foot

It is necessary for working with thin fabrics with split edges. It is inconvenient, and sometimes impossible, to bend and iron the edges of such materials. And the foot twists their edges while sewing itself. She has a special device that grabs the hem and twists it under the overcasting stitch. It remains only to lay the line.

Pintuck foot

Tucks are often used to decorate clothing and home textiles. The special tuck foot has grooves into which the fabric is pulled when sewing, resulting in a raised fold. Tucks are formed when sewing with a twin needle. There are feet for sewing two, three and five tucks evenly spaced from each other. Before work, you must select the stitch length and put a double needle on the machine. The double needle sews the pintuck on both sides with parallel stitches.

Device for "Spanish hemstitch"

The presser foot configuration allows you to join two pieces of fabric at an even distance from each other with a patterned stitch. A cord can be inserted into the groove of the device, which will additionally decorate the seam between the fabrics.

Feet for sewing delicate, difficult and stretchy fabrics

Sewing foot
jersey

Under the normal foot, thin or overly stretchy fabrics will “float” to the side or sag - they need different support from above and below, and a different mechanism for moving. Therefore, the paws for such capricious materials have a special configuration and additional devices. But by putting a special foot, you can not worry about the quality of sewing.

Knit foot

The rubber pad attached to the foot stretches and holds the fabric under the needle, preventing it from sagging and clogging between the teeth of the lower feed dog. And this is the main problem that arises when sewing thin fabrics and knitwear. The knit foot does a great job with it, forming an even stitch without any extra effort.

Hem foot

Used for hemming the edges of thin fabrics such as silk. The edge of the fabric is tucked into the groove of the foot, which in the process of sewing itself bends it by 1-3 mm, providing an even stitch along the edge.

Roller foot

Under the pressure of a regular foot, the skin immediately goes to the side, which makes it impossible to stitch the product evenly. A roller or roller attached to a special foot relieves pressure on the top layer and easily moves the fabric. This foot is suitable for sewing leather, suede and other difficult materials.

Quilting feet

You can also quilt a thick three-layer blanket with a regular foot, setting it to the top position. But how much work and accuracy it will require! In the absence of a guarantee that the layers of this "sandwich" will not move relative to each other. Special presser feet help you to stitch without unnecessary worries, guaranteeing smooth movement of the product and a neat line.

BSR quilting foot

This foot is designed for free-motion quilting, that is, for quilting, which the master performs with his hands, freely advancing the material and changing the speed. In this case, the stitch length remains constant. This is monitored by the automatic BSR stitch regulator. For free movement of the product, the device turns off the mechanism of the top and bottom feed of the fabric.

Performs the role of the upper gear mechanism, catching and evenly moving the three-layer canvas. The foot takes on the functions that the craftswoman used to perform with her hands, carefully advancing the material. This attachment provides a smooth seam when quilting fabrics with padding of different thicknesses. A special guide to the foot helps to make a perfectly even stitch.

This special foot allows you not only to move the quilt evenly, but also to sew lines at a given distance between seams with a certain angle of rotation. Depending on these parameters, you need to choose a quilting foot. There are several varieties of these paws. To diversify the stitch, it is best to purchase several types of quilting feet.

For patchwork, there are whole sets of various paws. The paws differ in the size of the seam allowance when stitching patches. They help to perform a variety of finishing patchwork products.

Presser feet for decorating fabrics

Sewing foot
round

transparent open
paw

Sewing foot
beads

Sewing foot
braids and sequins

Foot for
shirring

The artistic decoration of fabrics is the most creative part of sewing, which was previously done only by hand. Today, for any type of fabric finishing, a special foot has been created that helps to accurately and accurately realize any creative idea of the master.

Circular pattern foot

This device helps you to create circular patterns without rotating the fabric around the needle bar. The foot itself moves the fabric in a circle, performing an even stitch. The presser feet have different diameters for stitching, and you can set different diameters for the circle to be performed.

Parallel stitch foot

The foot sews two lines parallel to each other. The distance between the lines depends on the setting of the frame. Special feet are available with a guide that provides an even distance from the edge.

Made from transparent plastic. Through it you can see the line and each stitch made. The foot is convenient for fine decorative work - applications, patchwork, stitches, embroidery, decorative stitches. Monitoring the line during operation allows you to eliminate errors.

Foot for sewing on pearl thread and beads

Fashionable pearl or beading is easy to create with this foot . The fabric is tucked under the foot, and the decorative thread is threaded into the hole in the foot. Set the stitch pitch and sew. Before work, it is important to fix the beginning and end of the decorative thread on the fabric.

Sequin thread foot

This foot also has a groove at the top. First, the fabric is pressed with a foot, then sequins are inserted into the groove on the threads. Set line parameters and attach.

Gathering foot

With the help of this foot, ruffles and flounces are made. The foot is a small double plate with a slot over the entire surface. The material for the assembly is placed under the foot, and the fabric to which the assembly will be attached to is placed in the slot. The foot can perform three functions at once: to assemble, finish the edge and sew the shuttlecock to another fabric.

When sewing with a zigzag stitch, the foot itself forms a boucle of thread over the fabric. Depending on the stitch parameters (usually length from 0.5 to 1 mm, and width from 3 to 6 mm), different types of “boucle” are obtained. Stitching the pattern along the contour, you get a beautiful embroidery with a fringe.

Summary

Here is a small selection of the most common sewing feet. In fact, there are many more. If you can’t cope with your idea with the accessories that are included with your sewing machine, then it’s time to create your own collection of the necessary sewing feet.

Sewing machines with built-in overlockers

At the beginning of the article, you will have to make a small refutation of its own title. In fact, a sewing machine and an overlocker are completely different mechanisms that are technically impossible to combine in one device. The main difference is how exactly the line is formed in them. In the case of a sewing machine, the bobbin and one needle work. In the case of an overlock, a looper is used, and several loopers and several needles work at the same time. Approximately 80% of overlock models use two loopers and two needles. In addition to directly overcasting, such a device also trims the edge of the fabric, which many sewing machines simply cannot do by default.

Thus, a sewing machine with a built-in overlock, in fact, can only imitate an overlock stitch, nothing more. Nevertheless, such a compromise is quite reasonable in some cases.

Advantages and disadvantages of imitation overlock stitching

The fact that we can buy only one instead of two sewing devices is a definite plus. This perspective is especially pleasing in the context of home use or in a small repair shop. In addition to saving money, we get rid of the need to expand the workplace for two types of sewing equipment, which is also important. And the third positive thing is that you don’t have to set up both the overlocker and the sewing machine, refuel them and just master the nuances of working with both of them.

And now about the cons, without which it also could not have done. Overlock is not only engaged in stitching two pieces of fabric, it also makes such a line that prevents the edges from fraying, which is very important in the case of loose fabrics. Stitches that imitate an overlock seam do not save from shedding. The second point is the trimming performed in overlockers by default, in the case of a sewing machine, it will require a special foot or scrupulous manual cutting of the edge, and this is another additional operation and additional time costs. Another disadvantage is that the overlock stitch itself is more durable than its imitation. Therefore, if the task is to sew a product that will be subjected to increased stress (for example, it can be dance costumes, overalls, clothes for sports and outdoor activities), imitation of an overlock line may not show its best side.

How to create an overlock stitch on a sewing machine

So, we agreed that in this article we will talk about a pseudo-overlock line, which only imitates an overlock line, but in fact it is not. This stitch is suitable for overcasting garments made from a wide variety of materials - cotton, wool, denim or stretch.

Overlock feet

Almost always on a sewing machine, a zigzag stitch is used for this purpose. It is less elastic than the classic overlock, since the upper and lower threads in it make quite a strong tension in the stitch. If the fabric with this stitching is stretched, the threads may break. You can remove this effect, but only partially, for this it is enough to slightly reduce the tension of the upper thread. However, the strength of the seam will not increase from this.

The manufacturer must inform about whether the sewing machine can perform an overlock stitch. But this alone is not enough - you will also need a special foot, also called an overlock. It allows you to overcast without pulling the fabric along the edge, but the protruding edge itself will still have to be carefully trimmed with scissors. If the sewing machine is equipped with a display, for the convenience of the user, the number of the presser foot suitable for overlock stitching will be displayed on it.

In general, any overlock involves trimming the fabric, but in order to perform an overlock stitch and this operation, you need to purchase a special foot for the sewing machine. It is far from always universal, and you should first make sure that it fits specifically for your model.

Edge trimming foot with side cutter

The third option is to use the edging foot. Stitching in this case is carried out with an oblique trim, the width of the edging can be adjusted using the foot.

When it comes to processing the edges of very thin fabrics (for example, organza or chiffon), a snail foot will come to the rescue. It will allow you to make a neat hem and overcast the edge so that it is elastic enough and does not spoil the appearance of the finished product. Note that overlock for processing such materials is not always suitable.

Many beginner seamstresses often have a question: why do you need a special foot at all, if you can get a zigzag stitch that resembles an overlock stitch without it? In fact, it is much easier to ensure a smooth and neat seam with a foot than without it. In addition, its presence means that it will be much easier for you to control the width of the distance from the edge of the cut to the needle puncture.

Types of pseudo-overlock stitches

In practice, a stitch imitating an overlock may look different. First, it is a closed line, the most popular among seamstresses. Outwardly, it is very similar to the usual zigzag with additional straight stitches from the inside edge. Secondly, this is a slanting line. It is widely used as a hem when finishing tablecloths and napkins. Due to the oblique stitches, it looks very elegant, and it does its main task (to prevent the edges of the fabric from fraying) very well. Also suitable for working with light and whimsical materials, such as chiffon. Thirdly, this is an elastic stitch, which is most suitable for working with knitwear and wool. It is the most extensible against the background of all the others. Fourth, this is a double overlock stitch. It is used for hemming flat elastic, when working with knitted underwear, and simply for processing fabrics that have little stretch. And the last, fifth, option is a double closed line. It has an even wider scope: sewing on flat elastic bands, repairing linen knitwear, simultaneous processes of stitching and overcasting weakly stretching materials, and even certain types of embroidery and decorative trim.

No matter how expensive and multifunctional a sewing machine that can imitate an overlock stitch is, you cannot do without an overlock in the following cases:

you often have to sew from knitted and simply elastic fabrics;
you do not have time for regular post-processing of the fabric cut (overlock performs cutting by default);
sewing equipment is purchased for professional use.

Below we will consider the most popular and interesting models of sewing machines, in the arsenal of which there is just an overlock line.

Sewing machines that will replace the overlocker

Electromechanical sewing machine with semi-automatic buttonhole and needle threader, capable of performing up to 15 sewing operations. This model is equipped with a vertical hook and copes well with fabrics of different thicknesses, including the ability to perform overlock seams. For the latter, you need to buy a special foot, the kit includes only four standard ones. The cost of this sewing machine is from 12,500 rubles.

The sewing machine, despite its compact body, impresses with its capabilities. In many ways, this is facilitated by the presence of computer control of operations, the number of which is 294! There are ten ways to perform a loop in automatic mode alone. Among other things, it allows you to make a line with a double needle, is equipped with an informative display, and can cut the threads automatically. This model is not cheap - 48,000 rubles.

The model belongs to the class of electromechanical sewing machines with a vertical shuttle. Only 13 types of sewing operations are available in it, but among them there are also overlock ones. The machine can make a semi-automatic buttonhole, several types of elastic and decorative stitches, and is equipped with a needle threader. To create an overlock stitch, you can use either the hem foot that comes with the kit, or a special foot that will have to be purchased separately. The purchase of this sewing device will cost about 16,500 rubles.

The Minerva M87V machine is a good compromise where you need a solid and fairly inexpensive sewing device with the ability to imitate an overlock stitch. This is an electromechanical model with a vertical type shuttle. Of the main features - 34 types of sewing operations, a double needle stitch, a semi-automatic buttonhole, several types of elastic zigzag stitches and a separate overlock (aka overcasting) stitch. There is an automatic needle threader and a built-in thread cutter, a sleeve console, and a quick change of legs is provided. The cost of this sewing machine is 12,500 rubles.

A sewing miracle in itself, a real combine in the world of sewing machines. Suffice it to say how many sewing operations it is capable of performing - there are 504 of them. The machine is electronically controlled and is capable of a variety of jobs: sewing, decorating, overcasting, creating appliqués, sewing on buttonholes, buttons and cords, sewing leather goods and much more. other. The shuttle is horizontal, the loop is formed automatically, there is also an automatic thread cutter, needle threader, speed limiter. There are six lines that imitate overlock. This is more than enough to choose the right option for your type of product and type of material. All useful information is displayed on the informative display. The purchase of such a sewing machine will cost 25,000 rubles.

Summing up, we can say that the purchase of a sewing machine with an imitation of an overlock stitch is still a half measure. Especially when it comes to cars, the cost of which exceeds 25,000 rubles. For a mini-studio or semi-professional work at home, it is better to opt for two separate devices - a sewing machine and an overlocker. If you still set out to save money and you need a real overlock very rarely, then such a compromise solution will also have the right to life.

Overlock is a sewing machine designed to perform a specific task - overcasting sections in order to prevent them from shedding (for fabrics) and blooming (for knitwear).

Is there any way to overcast the cuts without an overlocker? Can. For example, using a zigzag stitch that any modern sewing machine can do.
Of course, overcasting with a zigzag stitch is not as beautiful as overlock stitching, but with a certain skill, you can learn how to do it pretty well.
The stitch length and width of the zigzag stitch must be selected taking into account the properties of the fabric being processed and the purpose of the stitch.

For overcasting closed sections of parts (visible only from the wrong side of the product), then the width of the zigzag stitch is set within 3-5mm, the stitch length is approximately 2-3mm.

In order for the edges overcast with a zigzag stitch to be neat, the stitch should be laid at a distance of 5-7 mm from the cut, and then cut off the fabric next to the stitch.

Over time, after wearing / washing, "lohmushki" usually appear along the edge, which spoil the appearance of the wrong side of the product. If this is unimportant for you, you can simply ignore them, because. they do not affect the reliability of overcasting.

But if you like everything to be beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, both from the outside and from the inside, then immediately after cutting off the excess allowance, deliberately ruffle the edge of the fabric as far as possible and cut off the “rags”. This procedure can be repeated several times until you achieve the desired effect.

Of course, this is longer than overlocking, but no less, and maybe even more reliable overcasting, because. zigzag stitching is very difficult to dissolve)))

Sewing machines of the new generation very often have lines in their arsenal, which are called overlock stitches.

For example, according to the passport, my Astralux 7900 has six lines as overlock.

The first on this list is a zigzag stitch, we talked about how to use it for overcasting cuts above, now we’ll take a closer look at other overlock stitches.

Stitch 16 is very similar to zigzag with extra straight stitches along the stitch.

Pattern 17 already has two rows of stitches along the zigzag stitch

Pattern 18 has cross stitches

Line 19 looks like a shuttle stitch with “jumps” towards the edge of the part

Line 20 resembles a hand overlock stitch with slant stitches over the edge

Any of these stitches can be used for overedging, but...

ATTENTION! The overlock stitches of a household sewing machine only SIMULATE the OVERLOCK STITCH performed by an overlocker, but are not a copy of it.

Overlock stitches on a household sewing machine can be used to overcast edges to prevent fraying, but are not exactly the same as an overlock edge stitch. Overlock stitching, performed by an overlock, has a fundamentally different way of formation and has other properties, i.e. Overlocked edges on a household sewing machine will never look the same as overlocked edges.

But at the same time, the edges will not crumble and dissolve, because. Overlock stitches on a household sewing machine ensure that the threads are fastened along the edge of the parts no worse than stitches made on an overlock.

All overlock stitches have settings for stitch width and stitch length, and these settings change the appearance of the stitch and the security of the overcasting.

Any of the overlock stitches has adjustments in both stitch width and length.
stitch.

At the same time, the maximum and minimum values of the parameters for different lines are different, on my Astralux 7900 they are as follows.

What are the best overlock stitch settings?

The larger the stitch width and the shorter the stitch length, the more secure the threads are when overcasting, but this does not mean that you should always set the maximum stitch width and minimum stitch length. Let's deal with this in more detail.

Overlock stitch width

The greater the width of the stitch, the stronger the fastening of the threads along the cut, but the more likely the fabric is to tighten with a stitch. This is especially true for thin fabrics.

In order to prevent contraction, it is recommended to lay a line not along the very cut of the part, but at a distance of 5-6 mm from the cut (see photo below), and then cut off the excess fabric along the line with scissors.

If there is a slight waviness after stitching, it can be easily removed by ironing.

To reduce the pull, you can try to reduce the tension of the upper thread (does not always work) or reduce the width of the stitch (the smaller the stitch width, the less it shrinks)

Another way to reduce stitching is to use a special overedging foot.

Overlock stitch length

The shorter the stitch length of the overlock stitch, the tighter they fit together.

A high stitch density is good for securely securing the cuts, but as the stitch density increases, the stiffness of the seam increases. And if on thick fabrics it is still possible to allow a hard overcasting seam, then on thin fabrics it is by no means impossible.

From the foregoing, the conclusion follows - for each fabric we select our stitch parameters, starting with the maximum stitch width and the minimum stitch length.

How to do without an overlocker if you have a sewing machine?