Variants of surface treatment of the knife blade, types of machining and coating of the surface of the blade. How to care for a knife handle

14.10.2019

There are many options for how to polish a knife to a mirror finish. Some of them are aggressive, others are softer and more flavorful. Polishing can be done with regular sandpaper, natural stones, wet and dry paper. The work is carried out as carefully as possible with the help of special pastes of domestic and foreign production.

Manual polishing

Craftsmen from all over the world in the past did not have specialized equipment, but they did their work with high quality. But how to polish a knife without special equipment? After heat treatment, the craftsmen used natural abrasive materials (such as stone or metal fixtures).

Hand polishing helps to achieve a perfectly flat surface. In this way, you can get the correct shape of the blade. Even using a special polishing and grinding device, it is not always possible to achieve such an effect. It is believed that hand polishing is the final processing of the knife.

How to polish a knife at home correctly using the manual method? Before proceeding to manual processing, it is necessary to polish the knife on a tape, the grit of which should not be less than 320. Using sandpaper, first of all, remove scratches. They can appear on the surface of the product after machining.

Features of emery processing

How to polish a knife to a shine using The first step is to polish at a 90 degree angle. In this case, irregularities may appear on the surface of the knife. This can be due to a build-up of grain on the surface. Sometimes the roughness cannot be removed with slightly abrasive paper. In this case, you need to go back to the coarser material.

To carry out the work as efficiently and carefully as possible, it is necessary to provide high-quality lighting, and the whole process should be carried out under a magnifying glass. When all the shortcomings have been eliminated, you can go back to standard processing.

Various types of sandpaper can be used in the polishing process. The main thing is that the transition between graininess is negligible. First, the processing is carried out with a material with a grain size of 600, then it is increased to 800. You can stop, or you can continue polishing with a material with an indicator of 2000.

Abrasive stones

How to polish a knife blade with a stone? Abrasives of this type have different grain sizes. The most popular indicators are 320, 400 and 600. To properly align the knife, experts recommend using Indian bench stones.

Such a simple device is used to this day, although it was first used in the Stone Age to remove excess material from weapons. At that time, not only stones were used, but also sand and soil.

For polishing, only those stones were used that were harder than a knife in their structure. Some craftsmen prefer a square shape, while others like a round one. The most popular polishing stone is sandstone.

How to use stones correctly?

Coarse and fine stones are used for polishing. Coarse material has a grain size of 80, and a fine one - 15. You can examine the structure of the stone in detail under a microscope. How to polish a knife this way? Rough stone is used to remove scratches that most often appear on the knife after a file. Another type of stone is usually applied before heat treatment. To prevent the surface of the stone from clogging, it must be periodically moistened with water.

To understand how to polish a knife to a mirror finish, you need to pay attention to Arkansas stones. Their grain size can reach 1000. This material is ideal for finishing. If polishing is just beginning, it is better not to use such stones, as they work slowly. To achieve a mirror shine, you can use Japanese wet stones. In addition, on sale you can find not only natural, but also fairly high-quality artificial stones.

Fast manual polishing

You can also polish the knife by hand. Movements should be done along the blade. It is this tactic that helps to get the job done as quickly as possible. Often, a double-sided is used for these purposes.

To polish the blade of a knife is obtained through quick friction. This method has many disadvantages. The surface of the knife turns out to be imperfect, you can see rough waviness and scratches on it.

Such disadvantages can be eliminated, but for this, all scratches must be in the same direction. After rough processing, it is necessary to prepare a small piece of leather and a special polishing compound, with which the finishing is carried out.

Application of dry and wet paper

Polishing work is carried out with both dry and damp paper. The material should be slightly damp so that it does not deteriorate or get greasy during the polishing process. For certain types of work, only dry paper should be used.

How to polish a knife at home using paper? To do this, it is recommended to purchase a whole set, which usually consists of fifty sheets. This option is considered the most economical. It should be borne in mind that waterproof material is more durable than non-waterproof. For polishing metal products, paper treated with crushed silicon carbide is excellent.

To work with the material conveniently, you must proceed as follows:

the paper is folded in half lengthwise;
the material is secured with clamps to a small steel plate;
if you fold the paper in half and place it on the plate, it will not slide off during operation.

Previously, experts recommend making small templates and blanks. If the master needs to process the area near the handle, small strips are not folded, but applied across the entire width. To prevent the tape from tearing during the polishing process, the material is pasted over with masking tape on the back side.

Mirror processing

All types of knives look amazing when they have a perfect mirrored surface. But how to polish a knife blade at home so that it has such an excellent surface? Each craftsman uses his own polishing methods. Whichever method is used, the ideal knife surface speaks of a high level of craftsmanship.

Often, to achieve a perfect surface, the product is first polished by hand to a grain size of 800, and then a special grinding wheel is used. Such processing is necessary in order to remove all irregularities and prepare the knife for the final mirror polish.

Be careful when handling grinding wheels. Too high a speed can damage the product. The grinding wheel should in most cases have a soft surface. For some types of work, solid is used. It is also dangerous to work with unstressed polishing wheels. They have one unpleasant feature - they often grab blades and some other parts of the product.

Security measures

Many people think about how to safely polish a knife at home. The most important condition is not to install the polishing machine directly on the work table. The fact is that in the process of work, the polishing wheel often grabs the blade, which can rebound and harm the master.

Experienced craftsmen, who often polish and grind knives, additionally install special protections on the polishing wheels. In this case, residual material in the form of polishing compound and dust will fly to the floor and not to the technician.

Using GOI paste

This method is well known to craftsmen who are engaged in the manufacture of knives. How to polish a knife with GOI paste? To do this, you must select the appropriate type of polishing material, which depends on the type of metal. In addition, there are a few polishing rules to keep in mind.

GOI paste has been used for over a hundred years. With its help, metal, plastic, ceramic and even glass products are polished. Previously, the paste was presented in green and was made from chromium oxide. However, this substance was found to be poisonous, and at the moment the paste is made from aluminum oxide. The paste is available in red and white.

Types of pasta

Previously, there was only one type on sale. But now specialists have much more choice. The paste is produced with different abrasiveness:

No. 4 - it is used specifically for rough work that is carried out at the initial stage of polishing;
No. 3 - helps to achieve a matte finish;
# 2 and # 1 are used for finishing.

Green paste is sometimes found on the market, but it is difficult to find it. Previously, this polish was produced both in liquid form and in the form of bars. In terms of effectiveness, the two types of paste are identical. Green has one advantage - low cost.

Preparing for polishing

Before you understand how to polish a knife, you need to familiarize yourself with the preparation for this process. It must be remembered that the paste has many particles, thanks to which the polishing is carried out. Sometimes they can accumulate and damage the product. To prevent this from happening, you need to take a small amount of the substance and rub it against an old piece of metal. In this way, large pieces of grain can be broken, otherwise the surface of the knife will not be polished, but will be scratched.

First you need to take a soft cloth and slightly dampen it in gasoline. In this case, the fabric should be as soft as possible. Flannel is great for these purposes. Often times, the paste is applied directly to the polishing wheel. It cannot be applied to the product itself. The knife should be lightly greased with special oil.

How to use the paste?

So how to polish a knife using GOI? When the fabric and paste are ready, you can proceed to the main steps. You just need to rub the product with this composition. Do not apply too much pressure to the surface of the knife. Otherwise, small scratches will appear on it.

For the same reasons, it is not recommended to make very sharp movements. The work is finished when the surface of the product is perfectly smooth. During work, from time to time you need to stop and put a little industrial oil on the knife.

If the surface of the knife has many flaws, in this case, you will need to purchase several types of paste. First, processing is carried out with paste No. 4, thanks to which deep scratches are removed. After that, go to number 3, and then to paste number 2 and 1. The last type of paste helps to finish grinding and achieve a mirror surface.

At the end of the work, you need to rinse the knife in running water. Experts recommend not using water for this, but kerosene, which can be purchased at the pharmacy. Be sure to dry the knife well. Some craftsmen additionally cover the surface of the knife with tsaponlak. This substance helps prevent oxidation of the material. The last stage is the polishing of the product with genuine leather.

Knife handle processing

If everything is clear with the blade, then how to polish the knife handle? In this case, you need to act very carefully. For these purposes, use the finest grit sandpaper. You need to act carefully so as not to damage the handle. This is a rather fragile element.

Now about the material. Which one is better to choose for this operation? GOI paste will be an excellent polishing agent. But which type should you choose for processing the knife handle? In this case, you need to use the paste numbered 1 and 2. For the handle to be shiny, it needs to be polished with a small piece of leather.

If the handle is made of wood, an additional impregnation is required. This will help to preserve its original appearance for a long time. Typically, impregnation is carried out using a regular or special oil, which is sold in an artist store. Alternatively, you can simply cover the handle with a protective varnish.

Conclusion

So, we figured out how to properly polish the knife. As you can see, there are many ways to do this. The main thing is to properly prepare for the procedure and follow the recommendations of specialists. This is the only way to achieve the desired result.

In order for the knife to retain its excellent cutting properties and ease of use for a long time, careful and regular care is required not only for the blade, but also for the knife handle. In some cases, if the handle is made of a unique wood, ancient bone or horn of an animal, or when the product is exclusive, it requires much more maintenance than even a blade.

Today, wood is the most popular material for a knife handle, not only because of its attractive appearance, but also due to its high strength and reliability. However, the wooden handle needs regular maintenance.

The stabilized stick is less prone to deformation, because all, even the smallest, voids in the material are filled with resin, which makes the surface waterproof. The handle made of ordinary wood, although it looks more natural, can crack from a large amount of moisture.

In any case, do not allow sudden changes in temperature or abundant moisture near the knife. Also, never wash the product in the dishwasher, as because of this, spots will appear on the tree, and the handle itself may transform. For the same reason, the knife should not be soaked. If you need to clean it of dirt, do it quickly, and then be sure to wipe it dry.

Drying can cause the wood to crack, so do not leave a knife with a wooden handle in direct sunlight for a long time or dry it near a battery. Remember this material is best stored in a dark and cool place. You also need to lubricate the handle regularly. You can use special wood products, or you can use olive oil, for example.

Leather and bone handles

Leather grips do not require much maintenance, but they have their own peculiarities. First of all, the handle should be soaked from moisture. Otherwise, if it gets on a cut of the skin, the skin can be significantly deformed, because because of the water, it will swell and lose its original beauty. For impregnation, any high-quality leather products can be used, incl. shoe waxes, but only expensive ones. Cheap ones have beeswax in their composition, which is absolutely safe, but it quickly melts and wears off from human heat. Products with carnauba rub in very well and do not wash for a long time.

If the handle of the knife is made of high-quality and durable bone or horn, then no complicated care is required. From time to time (about once or twice a year) it is advisable to soak it with oils. Better if these are mineral oils, for example, flaxseed. This procedure is done as follows: the handle, previously cleaned from dirt and dust, is immersed in the oil at night, then it is removed in the morning, the remaining oil on the knife is removed. Just like a wooden handle, a bone handle should be protected from temperature changes and sometimes lubricated with vegetable oil, thus protecting it from cracking.

If you take care of the knife according to all the rules, it will serve its owner until the end of his life, and the concept of "care" includes: correct operation, storage, cleaning and sharpening of the blade, as well as keeping the handle and sheath in order.

Usage

The first thing to decide for yourself is whether the knife will be a versatile tool or not. In fact, a good knife can do a lot, from picking locks and digging in soil (for example, to set up tent pegs) to filigree slicing raw fish. But the more often he performs the tasks of the first plan, the less he becomes suitable for "delicate" works.

There are three ways to solve the problem:

To have with you a full set of household tools that may come in handy: a screwdriver, an awl, scissors, a sapper shovel, etc. In real life, this is an inexpedient option.
Carry with you the simplest EDC (everyday carry - literally "everyday wear"): a limited set of devices in a compact and convenient package. Usually this is a paracord, flashlight and multitool, or one multitool.
Pick up a special knife for rough operations, which will not be a pity to change periodically (what is popularly called a "waste for a hundred rubles"), and the rest of the tools - high-quality, expensive and, most likely, beloved - should be used for their intended purpose.

Intended use is the first rule of careful handling. Do not crush boar bones with a thin fish knife or use a ceramic blade for slicing cheeses. The knife is also not obliged to "cut nails", contrary to the opinion of the laymen. For one-time work, the same hundred-ruble knife is suitable for other purposes, and the "real" one must be left for its intended purposes.

Storage

Even if the knife is exclusive (especially if it is exclusive!) And you want to make it an interior decoration, you don’t need to store it on the mantelpiece: blades made of any steel do not like temperature changes.
Rooms with high humidity are also not suitable for storage: do not throw a knife in the bathroom, shower or indoor pool.
The blade is, in a certain sense, a living creature, and it periodically needs to "breathe". If you only use a knife during hunting seasons (which is only ten days in spring and about four months in the second half of the year), take it for a walk in between - fresh air and changes in humidity are good for steel.
The knife should not be permanently stored in a leather sheath. Yes, there is no better place for him during a walk and hunting, but at home the product should be transferred to a wooden box: moisture accumulates in the scabbard (sometimes it gets there with a knife), and corrosion goes much faster than in the open air.
Do not store knives with other metal objects. This mistake is especially common when it comes to kitchen utensils: they are put in one box with forks and spoons. In this case, the blades are deformed imperceptibly to the eye, and microscopic chips even form on brittle metals. In the kitchen, knives are stored in wooden block stands or on a magnetic strip that is attached to the wall.
A knife that does not come into contact with food every day (such as the one you take with you on hikes) is ideal to store separately from the scabbard, wrapped in an oiled cloth.

Knife sharpening

It is advisable to keep all the knives in the house sharp: it is much easier to cut with a blunt knife, because when working with it we put more effort. There is a separate material on the sharpening technique on the blog, so we do not list the methods and rules, we just remind you of a few nuances:

Japanese knives with a traditional one-sided sharpening are sharpened or sharpened either on a special device or using
ceramic knives are given to a professional for sharpening or are sharpened independently with great care on a diamond-coated disc;
it is necessary to sharpen any knife in any chosen way only with the observance of the same sharpening angle (backlash * makes the process useless and even harmful to the cutting edge).

* here is a constant unintentional change of the angle at which the grinder holds the blade.

Cleaning and lubricating the knife

Cleanliness is the guarantee of health not only for a person, but also for a knife. Regarding cleaning and lubrication (removing dirt and old protective composition and applying a new one), we will mainly talk about "folds", since cleaning and lubricating a "fixed" is a simple matter:

after contact with aggressive substances (sea water, onions, lemon), the knife is immediately washed with fresh water and wiped dry;
periodically, the blade, and especially the place of its joint with the handle, is lubricated with a small amount of a special composition (even, rather, they are not lubricated, but wiped with an oiled cloth).

It is more difficult (and more interesting) with the "foldable". From the counter he gets to the owner already oiled, but - attention! - not the kind of lubricant that is intended for regular maintenance, but a conservation one. It shows itself better if the knife is stored for a long time without using it, but if the "folding" is actively working, it is difficult with it: it collects several times more dust and dirt than the "everyday" composition.

Lubricate, you guessed it, the moving parts of the mechanism, not just the blade. Moreover, much less oil is required than is usually used; so as not to overdo it, you can use cotton swabs and even toothpicks. In fact, a large amount of the composition will not help to open / close the knife faster, but it will be much more difficult to clean the thickened and contaminated oil.

How can you lubricate the moving parts of the "folding"

The leader in this regard is gun oil. Firstly, it is easy to find it, and secondly, some of the owners of knives still have a firearm, and this removes the task of finding lubricant: they already have it at home. By the way, handles can be processed with the same composition.
Castor oil is also actively used by the owners of knives to lubricate "folds". True, it is quite thick, attracts a lot of dust and requires frequent replacement.
Well, a completely "elite" option - lubrication of knives with camellia oil. This method is recommended by Japanese masters.

Removal of corrosion

A separate story is cleaning the blade from corrosion. To determine the correct way to remove rust, three degrees of severity of the situation were conventionally introduced.

Pitting corrosion ("freckles" of rust on the blade). The least serious damage, it is removed with an ordinary eraser or an old toothbrush with two-thirds cut bristles, which are dipped in car polish with fine abrasive particles.
Caverns are more visible damage. They are removed in two stages: for the first, they take a polish for scratches, and then they bring the matter to the end with the help of a fine abrasive polish.
Serious corrosion is removed along with the factory surface treatment of the blade with an abrasive washcloth or fine-grained sandpaper. After removing the corrosion, the steel is instantly polished. What for? Polishing is, in fact, the reduction of the surface that is in contact with the medium; less contact means less oxidation and damage. If this is not done, then on the "removed" areas corrosion will appear again, and with a vengeance.

Several rules for caring for specific materials

Handle materials

Wooden handles are periodically cleaned and oiled.
Handles made of bone or horn are only washed and cleaned, but they try not to allow them to come into contact with oils, since organic materials darken on such contact.
Handles made of various polymers (for example, elastron, like in Kizlyar knives) can and should be cleaned with non-aggressive liquid dishwashing detergents.
Bolsters, tops, guards, lanyard beads and other metal elements are polished using special compounds.

Scabbard materials

The leather sheath is periodically treated with colorless shoe polish.
A plastic scabbard (such as can be found on tactical knives or "survival knives") or a Kydex scabbard is cleaned with a damp cloth, possibly with a mild detergent, and allowed to dry naturally.
The nylon scabbard is washed periodically, like any cloth gear.

At first glance, there are a lot of rules for care, but in fact, out of all the material that is given above, you should learn for yourself literally a dozen or two rules just for your knife. Many of them are not related to daily use, but only to periodic maintenance, so difficulties will not arise.

Everyone knows that iron surfaces oxidize over time and this is almost inevitable. If you do not take action in time, then it will be very difficult to remove rust from the metal later. The oxidation process will not only spoil the appearance, but over time will make it unusable for further use. To get rid of rust, you can use one of the home removal methods.

Rust is the beginning

With daily use, the knife is exposed to moisture. For example, a hunting knife interacts with animal blood and various chemicals. Remember that the knife must be well cleaned before sheathing, immediately after use. If you put the knife in the case in a dirty state, you will provoke the formation of contaminants on it, which will not have a favorable effect on the blade and other steel parts of the knife.

Subsequently, if you clean the knife thoroughly, the remaining dirt will remain inside the case and continue their work when you put the knife inside it again.

How can you remove rust?

The appearance of rust must be nipped in the bud. You can do this at home. There are many ways, we will look at 5 of them:

Potato. Fresh potatoes contain oxalic acid, which helps in this matter. If the rust stain is small, such as on the blade, sprinkle some salt on the cut potato and clean the knife with it. You can just hold the potato with salt on a rusty place for about 15 minutes, then rinse and dry.
Vinegar and lemon juice. You need to mix these components and apply the mixture to the rust stain on the blade. For metal, the mixture must be kept for two hours, for other materials, 15-20 minutes. After finishing the treatment, we also rinse and dry the surface.

Baking soda. To prepare the composition, mix ordinary baking soda with water, so that a not very thick gruel is obtained. We apply this mixture to the rusty place of the knife for 15-20 minutes, after which we remove it with a metal washcloth. You may need to repeat this procedure a couple of times.
Coca-Cola or other carbonated water. For the first time, American housewives began to use Coca-Cola, who noticed that it copes well with rusty stains. It's all about phosphoric acid, which dissolves rust.
Ketchup. Place a drop of ketchup or tomato sauce on the rusty stain, wait 5-10 minutes, then wipe dry. As for professional methods, there are a large number of converters or rust removers on sale that act on the same principle - the composition enters into a chemical reaction with rust, converting it into a dense black or dark blue coating, which can then be painted. Fast and reliable, as they say.

Rust prevention

To keep metal surfaces in good condition, after removing contaminants, they must be wiped dry and then wiped with alcohol or acetone. Some items are wiped with a piece of cloth soaked in engine oil or kerosene, while others are covered with a layer of wax for storage.

To prevent the blade of a knife from rusting, it must be used. The fact is that one that is in constant use is regularly wiped, processed, and in plain sight. Meanwhile, a stored and unused blade is at risk of corrosion damage no less than an actively used, but not cleaned blade. If you do not periodically process and clean metal parts, then it will rust almost 100%. The fact is that moisture is found everywhere, including in the air. Gradually settling on the surface of the blade, it will inevitably lead to the oxidation of iron.

Many owners are professional and avoid preventive oil treatments. It is believed that oil can enter into additional interactions with various substances and harm steel. In this case, wax has established itself as a more reliable remedy. In addition, a knife that is used occasionally should not be stored in a sheath or sheath. Any unfavorable conditions, especially air humidity, in such a tight space will worsen, and the damage process will accelerate. In addition, the beginning of the process can be skipped by simply not seeing it. It is better to cover the knife when it comes time to take it with you on a trip, hunting, etc.

With the right approach and sufficient attention to the subject, corrosion can be avoided. It is better to spend time preventing the problem than dealing with it. Removing rust and preventing its appearance is a painstaking process that requires regularity. However, perhaps this is one of the few cases when caring for a thing is enjoyable and has a calming effect. A smooth, polished surface is the owner's best reward for efforts.

The consultants of our store will be able to advise you on any questions related to knives. They are ready to help you not to get lost in the range of knives and find the most suitable one. Also, our consultants will tell you how to properly care for the blade or answer another question in any way convenient for you!

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Almost every one of us owns several cutting tools: chef's knives, a folding pocket knife, a knife for fishing, hunting or hiking, and so on. Having bought a new knife, we pay attention to it, carry it with us, use it regularly. But sooner or later the moment comes when we leave the knife for a while in a drawer, a backpack, the glove compartment of a car, or some other place. Days, weeks, and maybe months later, we again remember our favorite and find him among things, objects and equipment. What is it? The blade of the knife is covered with rusty spots, dried food residues are visible on the blade, the handle keeps traces of frozen and absorbed fat. The bright exterior of the knife has changed not for the better, and if we are talking about the folder, then it may well be that the functionality of the product has noticeably deteriorated.

Such unpleasant surprises happen all the time. This is because many of us do not know how and by what means we need to take care of our cutting tools, how to properly store knives, what can and cannot be done during the operation of cutting tools.

Despite the fact that the vast majority of modern knives are equipped with high quality stainless steel blades, one should not think that such blades do not corrode. Care, proper cleaning, sharpening, polishing and normal storage conditions are necessary for absolutely all knives, regardless of their purpose and the materials from which they are made.

all knives must be lubricated, both fixed and folded (for folding knives, you need to lubricate not only the blade, but also the locking mechanism, as well as moving elements);
make sure your knives are sharp (a sharp knife, contrary to the stereotype, is much safer to use than a blunt one);
after use, the knife blade must be washed and wiped dry, you must not leave the blade wet;
folding knives are much more difficult than knives with fixed blades, so they need more careful care, periodic cleaning and lubrication;
without certain skills, you should not undertake knife repairs, especially folding knife repairs. This could result in injury and damage to the cutting tool.

General concepts

Caring for a knife blade consists in washing and wiping it dry, after which you should wipe the blade with a cloth soaked in oil. If you live by the sea or in regions with high air humidity, such procedures should be carried out more often than usual. If you took a knife with you for a walk to the sea and washed it in sea water, you must immediately rinse the knife with fresh water after returning, wipe it dry and grease it.

Many knife owners keep them in sheaths. It is not right. Moisture accumulates in the scabbard (especially leather). It is the scabbard that is one of the reasons for the appearance of corrosion on the blades. Knives should be stored separately from their sheaths or sheaths, wrapped in oiled rags. This will protect your cutting tools from moisture and oxidation on contact with air.

Wooden knife handles should also be periodically rubbed with oil (this will prevent the handle from drying out and retain good moisture-repellent properties). Copper and brass bolsters and tops can be polished using regular polishes for these metals.

If possible, do not use your knives for tasks for which the cutting tool is not adapted. Yes, if you are the owner of a powerful survival knife and find yourself in an extreme situation, you can use the back head of the handle as a hammer, open canned food with a blade and use it as a screwdriver. But if you do all this at home, when you have an opener, a hammer, and a screwdriver at hand, then this is simply unreasonable.

When buying a modern folding knife, few people pay due attention to caring for the folder immediately after purchase. And completely in vain. It should be remembered that the manufacturer is not responsible for the quality, timeliness and completeness of care for the cutting tool. This process entirely falls on the shoulders of the new owner of the knife.

You should start looking after your new knife immediately after purchase. The fact is that all knives entering the retail network undergo a preservation procedure at the manufacturing plant. As a rule, various technical vaseline and other compounds protecting against damage and corrosion are used for this. Their main task is to protect the surface of the blade, handle, lock elements from adverse influences. Over time, the conservation grease will polymerize. Add to this the gradual contamination of the hinges, internal cavities of the handle, bottlenecks, the ingress of natural abrasive (sand) - and we get a deterioration in the opening and folding of the blade, scratches appear on the heel and die.

An attempt to correct the situation with an oiler from an old sewing machine only aggravates the situation: the resulting mess of dirt and spindle grease quickly solidifies, and when you try to open the blade, you can easily get injured. At the same time, even at the cost of a cut or a torn nail, the situation will not be corrected.

In order not to get into such situations, dirt should be removed in time and the lubrication of the folder mechanism should be refreshed. Rubbish and old grease are removed using solvents or solvents (for example, special).

If you are using an untested product or are not sure if it is safe for the grip materials, test a drop of product on an inconspicuous place on the grip. Do not use excessively aggressive agents to clean the knife mechanism! Contaminated handles made of micarta, fiberglass, craton and various polymers can be cleaned well with a solution of dishwashing liquid.

When polishing the blade and handle with GOI paste, be careful: this tool is very much clogged in the smallest cracks, cavities and cracks, and it is extremely difficult to remove it from there.
Separately, it should be said about the care of antique knives: it is better to entrust the care of such products to specialists.

Together with the use of special tools for the care of knives, so-called consumables are also used: napkins, soft brushes, cleaning sticks. Toothpicks and cotton swabs can be used. Dirt should be removed carefully, because it is not only a guarantee of the durability of your cutting tool, but also basic hygiene.

After cleaning the knife from contamination, the surfaces of the cutting tool should be degreased. Degreasing is carried out using alcohol (ethyl or methyl), using white spirit or a special means for cleaning lenses and monitors. It is optimal to carry out the degreasing procedure with gloves - this way you will not leave grease marks from your fingers on the treated surface.

The next procedure is to add fresh lubricant (or preserve the product if you do not plan to use it in the near future).

For the preservation of knives, wax or ceresin is used. Also for these purposes, you can use a non-abrasive polish for cars and motorcycles. Just remember: if you ever want to use polished knives for cutting food, you need to pre-preserve them (remove polish residues from the surface).

Blade lubricant is a matter of taste and habit. Good quality stainless steel, like carbon blades, needs to be lubricated. Japanese masters recommend camellia oil for this purpose. Many domestic users prefer to use castor oil. It should be remembered that vegetable oils, although safe for health, retain their properties for a very short time, thicken over time, become viscous. They can only be used for knives that are frequently and constantly used. An excellent solution for this issue can be. This agent is not only an excellent lubricant that protects against corrosion. It is extremely useful for the wooden parts of the handles (provides protection and excellent appearance), and is also a bactericidal, disinfectant and healing agent.

Caring for Fixed Blade Knives

Removal of corrosion

If so-called "freckles" (pitting corrosion) appear on the blade of your knife, an ordinary stationery eraser or an old toothbrush with bristles cut by 2/3 of the length with fine abrasive auto polish (a small amount) can help you. Freckles are often just a superficial manifestation of corrosion and can be easily dealt with.

If noticeable damage (cavities) has formed, they can also be repaired with polish. In this case, take a scratch polish. After removing traces of corrosion, the surface of the blade is brought up with a fine abrasive polish.

In case of severe corrosion damage to the blade, the defects can also be repaired, but this will require the removal of the factory surface treatment of the blade. It, together with traces of corrosion, is removed with special abrasive sponges. In especially severe cases, fine-grained sandpaper is used. After eliminating traces of corrosion, the surface of the blade must be polished as efficiently as possible, since any roughness (scratches, risks, etc.) is a place where a corrosion center may appear again in the near future.

Lubrication of the hinge assembly

The folding knife hinge assembly needs periodic maintenance, no matter what or whoever tells you. Naturally, you shouldn't get into the mechanism of an expensive automatic knife without proper experience. But you should not leave an ordinary Swiss knife or other folding knife without lubrication either. Some folder manufacturers recommend rinsing the hinge assembly under a powerful jet of water and then drying it with a hair dryer (non-separable hinges). After these procedures and subsequent degreasing, a small amount of grease is put into the hinge, the excess of which is removed. To determine the sufficiency (amount of lubricant), the knife should be opened and closed several times. Do not grease the hinge too vigorously, otherwise oil traces from excess grease will be everywhere: on the case, pocket, food (if you cut them with this knife). In addition, excess lubricant in the cold will provide you with a powerful grip and the knife simply cannot be opened. Some users completely refuse to lubricate the non-separable pivot assembly, receiving excessive friction as a "compensation" for the lack of this concern (the blade opens more tightly).

The situation is somewhat more complicated in collapsible hinge assemblies. Maintenance of this element of a folding knife is reduced to combating friction by installing anti-friction washers and lubricating them. Since traditional grease degrades over time, it needs to be renewed regularly. Antifriction washers made of brass, bronze, fluoroplastic (with fillers - molybdenum, graphite, etc.) give a lower coefficient of friction and low wear, but they do not protect the hinge assembly from corrosion.

As an alternative to traditional lubricants, you can use technological metal-cladding lubricants (they are based on surfactants), which form antifriction films during friction. Of course, such lubricants also need to be periodically renewed (with the simultaneous removal of dirt and degreasing), but much less frequently than when using traditional lubricants.