Cobblestone fences. Earthworks and formwork construction. The choice of material for the fence

18.05.2019

Stone fences are the most durable type of fences. But they not only successfully protect the territory, but also allow you to create a spectacular decoration of the site. LLC "Optima" carries out the construction of stone fences in Moscow at affordable prices. Warranty - from 5 years. We offer new designs according to your original drawings. We carry out the arrangement of reliable strip foundations and the manufacture of any decorative elements for stone fences.

How to calculate the cost of a stone fence?

We build various options for stone fences for every taste. Masonry made of natural material can be made in combination with forged metal elements. Then the appearance of the fence becomes more aristocratic.

The prices of our stone fences will also depend on the design and complexity of the structure you need. Optima's consultants will help you choose the best fencing design for your facility free of charge.

To calculate the current price of a stone fence,. Specialists of IC "Optima" have developed it for you. It's simple and convenient. You can easily calculate the price of a stone fence of a particular design. Mark the material, design features, dimensions you need. The calculation will be ready. We will contact you to transfer the price calculation data for the stone fence.

In addition, there is the possibility of implementing exclusive projects from a variety of stones. Most often, customers choose fencing made of shell rock, cobblestone, sandstone, granite and other natural materials. Each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and cost. Our manager will inform you about all these nuances.

Production and construction of stone fences

All customers of the Optima company can order a standard stone fence from us or design from scratch. We organized the supply of materials and parts from advanced factories. We carry out stone construction ourselves, directly on the site. To do this, we equip the strip foundation, and for the installation of additional elements we use special equipment.

LLC "Optima" specializes in the construction of foundations and stone fences. These reliable designs combine high strength, beauty and practicality.

Our stone fences meet modern requirements for the protection systems of any private facility. The production base allows us to produce additional structures with metal elements.

The construction of the stone fence is carried out by SK-Optima teams. You get our turnkey guarantee. We also offer periodic maintenance and repair of stone fences.

A stone fence will look beautiful with our wrought iron gates.

Main advantages

Official guarantee for stone fences. We build reliable stone fences that become the decoration of the site and will last more than 50 years on average.
The construction of turnkey stone fences is carried out by SK-Optima Brigades in the shortest possible time. We also provide delivery of all materials. And in the case of stone work, trucks will be required.
Designing stone fences according to individual drawings. Together with our customers, we will create the best appearance of the fence, which will become the hallmark of your home.

How to order and buy a stone fence?

To order a stone fence. The site specialist will clarify the nuances in order to offer the most excellent conditions. We carry out the construction of stone fences of various sizes and with additional options. Call, everything will be of high quality standards and on time.

The fence can be built from different materials and using several technologies, but it is the stone fence that is the most reliable. In addition, the stone makes the design attractive in appearance. Most often, natural material is used in the construction of fences, but in recent years, artificial substitutes have also gained popularity.

What are the advantages of a stone fence:

fire safety,
immunity to any precipitation and natural phenomena,
no rotting, corrosion, oxidation, etc.,
environmental friendliness,
the ability to select the desired shade,
material availability,
durability.

It may seem to a beginner in the construction business that only a professional can make a stone fence on his own. In fact, this is not the case and almost anyone will cope with the task. Before proceeding directly to work, it is necessary to determine the type of future fencing. When building a fence, it is used:

Training

So, there is a goal to build a stone fence, it remains to find out what is required for this. First of all, you need to take care of the materials. Suppose that the stone has already been purchased, then it remains to have a concrete mixer or a tank for mixing cement mortar. Also for this mixture you will need crushed stone and sand, the volume of which depends on the length and height of the fence. It is better to choose cement with the marking 300, as it is better suited for such construction. By the way, for the dosage of the components you will need a shovel (scoop), and for laying out the finished mixture, a construction trowel.

Next, you definitely need boards and nails for the construction of formwork, as well as reinforcement to give the structure good rigidity. If the fence is high, then you will need another welding machine. With it, steel rods can be extended to the required size. Be sure to purchase a pipe with a diameter of 50 - 80 mm. It is she who will be the "heart" of future pillars.

For marking work, you need a tape measure, small stakes and ordinary twine. Once the location of the fence is determined, you can proceed to the next step.

Attention ! Before starting any work, you need to take care of safety precautions. Perform all actions with gloves and boots. If the stone will crack right on the spot, then it is better to wear goggles. Just in case, you can prepare a first aid kit with bandages and disinfectants.

We build the foundation for the fence

First you need to dig a trench along the width and length of the stone fence. In this case, a bayonet shovel or even a crowbar may come in handy. The depth of the trench depends on the specific conditions, but it does not make sense to make it more than 700 mm. Do not throw away the soil from the pit, as you will later have to fill in the edges of the foundation.

The next step is to hammer the boards to the desired configuration. At the same time, the rods are welded in the same shape and laid in the trench. Along the entire perimeter, you need to drive in stakes, and from above, after 1.5 - 2.0 meters, nail the transverse beams. This is done so that when pouring the boards do not disperse to the sides.

Concrete mixture can be poured into the resulting structure. If there is no experience in kneading it, then here is a small instruction. It is always necessary to proceed from the volume of the binder and only after that add other components. So, for one part of cement you need two parts of sand and four parts of crushed stone. All ingredients are poured into a concrete mixer and mixed.

When the mixture is ready, it can be drained into a container and spread around the perimeter of the fence with buckets. But you can do it smarter and pour the mixture directly into the formwork using a gutter. At the same time, each new batch involves the movement of the concrete mixer!

Pre-mark the points for the pillars and weld a pipe to the reinforcement in each of them. Height is better to do with a margin!

After completion of all concrete work, the structure must be left alone for 15 - 20 days. For better and uniform hardening, an insulator (film) is placed on top of the formwork. Otherwise, the top of the foundation will dry out quickly, and the strength of the concrete will be worse.

Inexperienced builders at this stage can make one fatal mistake. After pouring the foundation flush with the ground (or even lower), you will not face problems with water later. Rain, melting snow, etc. will accumulate along the fence, thereby eroding the soil and promoting the formation of slime and mold. It is better to make the foundation just above ground level, and then decorate the concrete or cover it with a thin layer of soil (decorative stone).

Making stone fence posts

The erection of pillars begins with measuring the distance between them. If it is different, then you can slightly tighten or stretch the pipes with a rope. The stone columns for the fence are made slightly wider than the spans, which visually divides the entire wall into sections.

Next, formwork is made in the form of a square with the required width of the column. At the same time, the height of the formwork should not exceed 40 - 50 cm. When everything is done, a layer of cleaned stones is laid out and this is done as close (parallel) to the plane of the boards as possible! After that, all cavities are filled with a moderately thick solution. By the way, the solution for the stone fence itself is done like this: 1 part of cement, 1.7 parts of gravel and sand! It is important to ensure that all the gaps between the stones are filled with a binder mixture, but the solution itself does not spread over the column.

Thus, this procedure must be done on each pillar and left to harden for one or two days. With the formwork for the pillars of the stone fence, you can also cheat a little. In order not to collect a new square each time, you can simply pin another one to the bottom row and so on! Gradually, the height of the pillars will reach the desired level, and then you can start laying the walls!

Laying down the fence walls

Walls can be made in different ways. Experienced builders simply pull the string, which becomes a guideline for the height and deviation of the fence. They lay one layer of stones around the entire perimeter of the fence, after which all voids are filled with mortar. A day later, the second layer is laid out, etc. But in this case, there is a high risk of getting a wall that is too uneven, so it is better to use the formwork.

Tip: If large round stones are used for the fence, then the formwork will not help. It is better to lay them out "by eye"!

Formwork is done similarly to pillars, but here it is no longer necessary to apply stones tightly to the boards. Some irregularities are acceptable, they give the fence asymmetry. After laying out the first layer, the stones are covered with mortar and left for one or two days.

Important: It is better not to make the formwork too high, as this will lead to voids in the mortar and poor quality of the entire structure. All seams must be hammered with a trowel!

In order for the spans of the fence to turn out to be the same in height, closer to the end they need to be measured with a tape measure. By varying the size of the stones, you can come to a single level of the entire wall. After completing the laying and dismantling of the formwork, it is important to carry out the jointing in time, otherwise the mixture will harden strongly.

Fence jointing

After pouring, you need to wait about 5 hours and start grouting. First, all the remnants of the solution are cleaned with a rough brush, after which a special tool, a scraper, comes into play. It is a metal rectangle with a protrusion equal to the desired width of the seam.

TIP: To give the fence volume, it is better to make the seams deep. If you need the effect of a single monolith, then the deepening of the seams should be minimal (no more than 2 cm)!

The jointing step is quite simple, but here it is important to be accurate when deepening the tool. Experienced builders recommend that, after jointing, the seams and stones be treated with a solution of hydrochloric acid (no more than 30%).

The same seam significantly improves the appearance of the fence and allows you to better process it.

Fence details

The natural stone fence is ready, the seams are embroidered, the formwork is removed. But at this stage, the design still looks unfinished! It's about the details that will ennoble the rough shape of the material and give the wall a well-groomed look.

Firstly, a so-called cap must be installed on each pole. They are sold in stores or made to order in blacksmith workshops.

Secondly, the seams of the pillars can be shaded with some kind of waterproof paint, which will visually divide the fence into spans.

Conclusion

Making a fence is not easy, but, as the classic said, there would be a desire! This material clearly shows that even a person who is far from manual labor can perform all stages of construction. A few things are enough and you can start building!

When building stone fences, you perform two tasks at once: firstly, build a reliable fence around the site, and secondly, decorate your territory, because the use of natural materials helps to create an area as close as possible to the natural landscape. The most popular do-it-yourself stone fences are gabion fences (stones in a grid), flagstone-sandstone structures and regular-shaped blocks.

Natural stone is perhaps the most beautiful and durable material for building garden walls and fences. Limestone, sandstone and granite are best suited for masonry. Slate and flint are also suitable, but tend to be more difficult to work with.

Stones can be raw, semi-finished (cut into relatively uniform blocks, but with uneven surfaces) or fully processed (in the form of identical blocks with even edges). The less stone is processed, the cheaper it is and the more difficult it is to put a fence out of it. Therefore, for the construction of fences with their own hands, they use a stone, which professionals call "restored". It is made from crushed soft natural stone, such as sandstone, in a solution of Portland cement, tinted with iron oxide to give the composition a yellow tint that mimics limestone or marble. Compared to solid marble and granite, this material for the construction of stone fences is lighter, less hard and wear-resistant, does not have a characteristic fine pattern and does not give such reflections as natural stone. However, some blocks have a textured front surface interspersed with natural crushed stone as a filler.

Before you build a stone fence, you need to choose the right material. When choosing a stone, it must be borne in mind that it must correspond to the materials that were used in the construction of the house, other buildings on the site, paths and patios.

See how beautiful natural stone fences are in these photos:

Blocks of restored stone for laying fences are the size of an ordinary clay brick or of different, random sizes - to simulate a wall built from natural stone. Blocks are produced even in the form of so-called "multi-stones" with imitation of recessed mortar joints, and work with such blocks is much faster.

This article describes how to make stone fences of various designs with your own hands.

The main advantage of choosing blocks as a building material for masonry fences is that they are relatively cheap, resistant to changing weather and easy to install due to their regular shape and uniform size.

Before you build a stone fence with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to build the wall. And for this you need to decide whether you will build a stand with blocks of the same size in the same way as if you were working with bricks, or if you want to use stones of different sizes to create visually interesting dressing patterns. In the first case, it is very easy to estimate the amount of material: to make a stone fence as strong as possible, calculate how many blocks it will take to lay out one row along the entire length of the wall, and multiply this number by the number of rows. For a mixed block wall, it's best to make an accurate tie plan on graph paper and then calculate how many blocks of each type you'll need.

To make a stone fence, as practice shows, you always need to order a little more material than required by calculation. Some blocks may be damaged when splitting, while others may shatter due to careless handling during shipping.

As shown in the photo, for a do-it-yourself stone fence, the mortar is made up of cement, fine-grained building sand and lime in a ratio of 1: 1: 6:

Lime can be replaced with a synthetic plasticizer (the required amount of the latter is usually indicated on the package). Even better, purchase a packaged, ready-to-use masonry mix (which is somewhat more expensive).

Stone block laying is carried out in the same way as brick laying. First, it is desirable to lay out the first row on the foundation tape dry with gaps of approximately 10 mm. Thus, you will determine the exact position of the end posts and corners. After that, lay the mortar bed on the concrete and start the first row of masonry.

Lay the blocks until you reach the end of the wall or the first corner, controlling the row along the stretched cord. Then go back and make sure all the blocks are in a straight line and on the same level. To straighten the row, lightly tap the blocks with the handle of the trowel, controlling the result by the building level. Remove excess mortar from the joints flush with the surface of the blocks.

In order to lay a stone fence in the way that the correct technology suggests, the blocks in the second row must be installed in accordance with the selected dressing. Continue building, regularly checking that each row is horizontal and the fence rises strictly vertically.

When building a small fence, you can embroider the seams after all the masonry is completed. For larger projects, stitching is carried out every 3-4 rows.

After laying the last row of blocks, trim the top of the wall with a row of ridge stones and place stone caps on top of the pillars. At the end of the work, remove excess mortar from the wall surface with a stiff brush and cover it with plastic wrap if rain or frost is expected.

Construction of stone fences: dry laying of stone-sandstone

Most walls are laid out on mortar for strength. The only exception is dry-built fences from natural stone. Such walls, if built correctly, will stand for many years, and even if individual stones fall out, they can be quickly completely restored.

Most suitable for dry masonry stone-sandstone fence. As a rule, all six of its surfaces are parallel in pairs. The thickness of the material is from 15-20 to 100 mm or more. The length and width of flagstone can reach 2 m - it all depends on how the formation split during mining. Flagstone is sorted by thickness: thin layers are used for the production of facing tiles, and foundations and walls of various buildings are laid out of thicker stones. Sandstone is well cut by a grinder.

If you want the fence to have a completely natural look, it is best to lay the walls dry. Due to the irregular shape of the stones, many cracks form in the wall, which are sure to be chosen by plants.

Before making a sandstone fence, make sure you have a place to unload the delivered stones. Then sort the stones by size: large - for the base; medium size with a smooth edge - for the front side; long through and small - for backfilling. Set aside the stones that will form the crest of the wall.

The strength of a natural stone fence laid dry with your own hands depends on the care taken with the laying of each individual stone. Neither a concrete nor a columnar foundation is laid under such a wall. A layer of large heavy stones is laid in a shallow trench, and the first row of the wall is laid on them.

Before building a stone fence, first mark the boundaries of the base of the fence with a width of 900-1000 mm, remove the sod or free the surface from vegetation. Dig a trench to a depth of approximately 150 mm or until you reach the ground. Tamp down the soil to make it firm.

Now you can lay the foundation stones. These should be large and relatively flat stones, the rectangular edges of which should be on the outside of the wall. Fit the stones together as closely as possible and evenly fill the gaps between them with smaller stones.

A key feature of a free-standing, dry-laid natural stone fence is that every surface, from the foundation to the top, slopes inwards. This slope is called a slope. As a result, the wall, which has a thickness of 900 mm at ground level, tapers towards the top to 400 mm.

Without skill, such a slope cannot be ensured, so you need to make two slope frames that will help build a wall with a constant and accurate slope.

They are installed at opposite ends of the foundation and hammered with a mallet with pointed ends into the ground. The side surfaces of the frames indicate the desired slope. To facilitate control, a building cord is pulled onto the frames, which, as the wall is laid, must be moved up along the frames.

The "dry" fence consists of two separate walls converging to the top, and the space between them is filled with backfill - a filler of smaller stones. Lay a row of medium-sized stones on the foundation along each face of the wall, laying with the most even end facing out. Make sure the row sets back slightly from the edge of the foundation stones. To prevent stones from rolling off the previous row, use small fragments to wedge them (this process is called driving). Such pebbles-wedges are clogged from the inside of the wall so that they are not noticeable. Fill the cavity between the opposite rows with small pieces of stone and tamp them as tightly as possible. Do not use soft soil for backfilling: it will be washed away by rain very soon, and the stones will become dangerously unstable.

Estimating the amount of material required for such a fence is quite a difficult task, since you cannot simply count the number of blocks, as is the case with a brick wall. According to rough estimates,

1 ton of stone fills approximately 7 m3 of the wall, including the foundation. Of course, you need to order building materials with a margin so as not to look for it again if you do not have enough stones.

At the ends of the wall lay out a layer of long through stones. They should be directed towards the center of the wall and tilted back a little for added stability.

Depending on the thickness of the stone used, it may be necessary to add a second or even a third row to bring the wall up to a height of around 600mm. At the same time, constantly check that each row has the required slope. Try to place the stones so that they overlap the junction between the stones lying in a row below them. This is reminiscent of a spoon dressing in brickwork.

See what sandstone fences look like in these photos:

Make sure that the surfaces of both side walls and the backfill are level. Then lay a series of long through stones, each of which extends from one face of the wall to the other, and thereby binds both walls. Stones that are too long should be shortened with a chisel and hammer. If you do not have enough stones of the required length, space them evenly apart along the entire wall, and then lay shorter, “semi-through” stones between them. They should be long enough to reach the center line of the wall. Drive small stones again, working from the inside of the wall. Stones must not swing! Then lay the filling stones in the gaps between them.

Continue building the wall to the required height while controlling the masonry with a builder's line on the sloping frame. A low wall may require as little as one additional layer of façade stones, followed by a cover layer and a ridge. Higher walls may require another layer of façade stones and another layer of through stones closer to the top. Please note that the maximum height of a fence folded dry by an amateur builder is 1200 mm. Higher walls are very unstable, it is better to invite a specialist for their construction.

Carry out the final driving and backfilling and again check the level of the top surface of the wall. Now you can lay the cover row. Its stones are laid in such a way as to prevent saturation of the backfill with rainwater. Their front ends should protrude beyond the slope of the slope by about 50 mm, tying the upper rows together, and the inner ends should interlock with each other as tightly as possible, like the teeth of a saw. In order to fit the stones well, they should be trimmed if necessary. Carry out driving so that the stones lie stably in the upper row of the wall and serve as a reliable foundation for the ridge.

If you are building a fence in an area where the winter cold is especially severe, it is still better to deviate a little from tradition and lay the covering row on a mortar bed.

This will reduce the penetration of water and, accordingly, prevent the destruction of the wall and individual stones due to frost. After all, it is when water freezes that forces arise that move stones and make walls unstable.

To better imagine how a stone fence is built with your own hands, watch the video:

After the final check of the final row, a comb is laid out along the building cord. As a comb, a row of semi-circular stones, evenly fitted to each other, laid on edge, or individual stones laid flat on top of the covering row, can be used.

In any case, the stones should be located as close as possible to each other. If they are placed on edge, then they should have the same slight slope. Small stones are hammered under each individual stone of the comb to give stability.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to make a gabion fence with your own hands.

How to make a fence of stones in a grid with your own hands and a photo of gabions

Gabions (French gabion, Italian gabbione - large cage) appeared in the 1880s, when a design was patented in France to strengthen river banks. It was a single-twist wire mesh box filled with stones. Gabions were not used very often, but after a century, half a mile of a new life: similar technologies began to be used in construction.

Modern gabions made of double twisted galvanized mesh are divided into 3 main types: box, mattress and cylindrical. The first ones are used mainly as retaining walls, building blocks and decorative elements, the second ones - as fortifications of the bottom and banks of rivers, streams and ponds, and the third ones - as building structures.

Gabions have sufficient flexibility, allowing you to accurately repeat the terrain and easily perceive the sediment of the soil. They don't even need a foundation. Due to the high porosity, drainage is also not needed.

As you can see in the photo, in the fences of their gabions, the grids are filled right on the spot with any available stone, pebbles, boulders, slag, clinker:

A gabion wall is an ideal solution if you need to get rid of a large amount of construction debris accumulated on the site, such as stone chips or old concrete. The main thing is that the particle size of the aggregate for the self-built stone fence in the grid should be larger than the size of the cell cell (70-150 mm). The material poured inside is hidden from view, and if desired, the mesh can be sheathed with wooden panels or, poured on top of the ground, plant climbing and creeping plants that will break through the stone filler of the wall and mask the mesh surface.

Separate sections of a self-built gabion fence are fastened together with wire, making up a single structure, which eventually "grows" into the landscape, becoming its integral part. This is facilitated by the gradual filling of gabions with soil and the germination of plants in it. At the same time, the strengthening of such structures occurs much earlier than the service life of the mesh ends. Gabions continue to exist due to the layer of cultivated soil formed in them and germinated plants.

If you make a fence of mesh and stone in the way that the right technology suggests, you can not only strengthen the relief of your site, but also ennoble its appearance. You can also build separate buildings from gabions. In recent years, a new type of gabions has appeared - a pergon, which is a narrow steel box welded from a galvanized bar. This product is intended exclusively for the construction of fences, arches, flower beds and decoration of various structures. Gabion fencing is the most popular design. The height of one section of such a fence is 200-250 cm. If you know how to make a gabion fence, you can arrange retaining walls from such grids with stones, especially if the site boundary runs along a ravine or a steep river bank.

Wire containers filled with large stones, although very massive, fit perfectly into the garden, decorated in a modern style. And most importantly - quickly mounted gabions in the future do not require any maintenance at all, unless you want to cut the plants that have chosen a wild fence.

This video shows how to make a fence of stones in a grid (gabions):

Man began to build stone structures in ancient times, and they have not lost their popularity at the present time. A stone fence has no analogues in terms of durability and strength - it is practically not affected by bad weather, does not rust or rot. There is no need to tint the stone every year, unlike a wooden fence.

The downside is the rather high labor intensity of the construction, and therefore the cost of its construction. But if you make a fence with your own hands, the costs will be significantly reduced.

The choice of material for the fence

The most popular materials for the construction of fences are:

Cobblestone - fragments of basalt or granite of a gray-steel color, which has high mechanical strength and chemical resistance, is poorly processed, has, as a rule, a rounded shape.
Dolomite - the color varies from white-yellow to light gray, flat, with clearly defined edges, outwardly similar to marble.
Limestone, or shell rock, is a light-colored, soft, porous stone that is well processed, but absorbs moisture very strongly.
Sandstone is a hard stone of a layered structure, repels moisture well, is frost-resistant, and is very popular in the construction of fences.
Booth - sandstone, limestone or irregularly shaped granite. It is often used as a filler in the construction of foundations.

The easiest option for work is processed limestone or shell rock. It is much easier to lay out a fence from stones of the correct form, resembling a brick, than from shapeless rubble and cobblestones, however, even in the photo, a fence made of irregularly shaped stone looks much more original than from identical fragments.

Tools and Consumables

To build a fence you will need:

Cement brand M400;
Crushed stone and sand;
Armature 8-12 mm;
Formwork board, preferably edged;
Decorating elements - tops, lanterns, fences, etc.
Pipe 3-4 meters of large diameter;
Concrete mixer, shovels and bayonet shovels, buckets;
Cord, plumb line, tape measure, level.
wire brush;
Sledgehammers and hammers;
Bulgarian with a disk on a stone.

Foundation preparation and pouring

In order for the fence to stand on a solid foundation, it is necessary to pour a strip foundation under it at least 10-20 cm thicker than the fence and at least 20 cm above the soil level.

The foundation is poured like this:

They mark the territory where the fence will stand with pegs and stretch a cord between them.
Sod is removed inside the perimeter fenced with pegs, while the total width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm.
The trench is deepened by 80 cm, and in the places where the pillars are installed by another 40 cm.
Having carefully leveled the bottom of the trench, sprinkle it with sand with a layer of at least 5 cm and tamp it well.
Formwork panels 100-110 cm high are knocked together and installed on the sides of the trench, strengthening them with spacers and racks. You can also drill two holes in the shields on both sides, additionally tighten them in the upper part with a knitting wire.
A reinforcing grid with a square cell of 15-20 cm is installed in the trench with the help of steel bars located in the trench with a step of 50 cm.
In the center of the section of the pillars, steel pipes are vertically exposed to the height of the pillars of length.
Concrete is made from a mixture of cement, sand, crushed stone and plasticizers using a concrete mixer and poured into a trench.

After a week, the formwork can be removed, but the construction of the fence is continued after the concrete has completely hardened for 28 days.

pillars

In order to speed up the construction process, the pillars are erected synchronously. For the construction of pillars, you will need a square or rectangular formwork made of boards 150-200 mm wide, assembled on self-tapping screws.

The algorithm of actions is as follows: after mounting the formwork, stones are laid out as closely as possible inside it, and the voids between them are filled with a thick solution.

On top of the first formwork, they mount the same second formwork and fill it with stones and mortar in the same way. After two or three days, the lower formwork is removed, and the solution is filled into the unfilled voids.

The formwork is mounted higher and the process is repeated. Caps made of metal or plastic are used to protect the poles from atmospheric action. The whole process of erecting pillars can take up to a month or more, depending on their height.

Walls

Before the walls are erected, the foundation is laid out. The wall is at least 10 cm thicker than the pillar, therefore, the indentation from the edge of the pillar inward will be at least 5 cm. Stones are placed symmetrically in level from the edges of the wall, and a cord is pulled between them.

To make it more convenient to work, the stone is laid flat side up, and the gaps between them are clogged with mortar. Rows of stones are placed with bandaging for greater structural strength. The divergence of the level from the vertical should not exceed 1 cm per 2 meters of the height of the fence.

Stitching

For decorative purposes, the fence is lined with a scraper, flat combs, foam rubber, rags and a metal brush.

There are three options for stitching - deep, shallow and convex. Jointing is carried out 4 hours after laying, so that the solution has time to partially set.

It is done as follows:

The stone and seams are cleaned of excess mortar with a metal brush;
With the help of a scraper, outwardly aesthetic recesses are made in the solution up to 2 cm deep;
The stone and seams are washed with a sponge and rags.

It is not worth ignoring the jointing, because without jointing the fence looks much worse from an aesthetic point of view.

Fences made of stone can be combined with other materials - you can make fences made of corrugated board or forged metal between the posts at the top of the fence, as well as wooden iron-wrapped gates - all this goes well with stone and successfully complements it.

Photo of stone fences

The Premium Stroy company is your reliable partner, which guarantees you the highest quality of fences and technical services provided. Our company employs only experienced and professional engineers, designers and installers who are able to cope with the task of manufacturing and installing fences of any complexity. We are pleased to present you our stone fences made of natural and artificial material- an example of impeccable strength, stability and reliability. Such structures, with proper construction, will serve faithfully for decades - and you can be sure of their invincibility. These structures are absolutely not afraid of any aggressive environmental factors - neither intense precipitation, nor sudden changes in ambient temperature, nor frost, nor heat, nor direct ultraviolet radiation - under any conditions they retain their quality characteristics and attractive appearance.

A fence made of natural stone is not only a reliable, impenetrable protection of your territory, but also a stylish, classic decoration. This is an ideal, luxurious option for fencing a country house.

In our company, stone fences are manufactured in accordance with strict international technical, operational and hygienic requirements and standards from the best practical natural and artificial material of your choice. And the choice is simply huge! There are a variety of shades of a wide palette, a wide variety of options for the texture, density and hardness of the stone.

We offer to build a variety of decorative options, you will be able to buy stone fences to your taste. Masonry can be combined with hand-forged metal elements - and then their appearance becomes more elegant, light and aristocratic. The combination of stone and hand-forged is a classic of the refined architectural genre, so our clients very often make their choice in favor of this option.

At the same time, you can choose both low decorative fences that perform only an aesthetic function, but also impressive and reinforced protective fences, which are an impossible task for intruders and uninvited guests for a summer residence and a country house. In any case, even the most durable, reliable and stable stone structures are very beautiful fences that will decorate any site and justify their considerable cost.

A beautiful fence or brick is an integral part of a country cottage. After all, the fence as a visiting card tells others about the status of the owner.

stone fence prices

Prices for these fences depend on the height, the table shows the most popular option.

Height (meters)	Price (rub.) / running meter
2	12 000

The advantage of building stone fences is that they are as impregnable and reliable as possible. Arches and niches for flowerpots will help to give lightness to such fences. The stone fence, thanks to its decorative effect, fits perfectly into the landscape of the site.