Online pattern dress shirt. Creating a pattern of a dress-shirt, detailed instructions for sewing. Dress shirt pattern for free without registration
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Hello!
In this article, we will model the construction of a shirt in order to get a pattern of a similar dress.
But our future shirt dress will have a slight difference from the dress shown in the photo. Firstly, instead of four embossed seams, we will make only two on the shelf, and secondly, we will replace welt pockets with patch pockets, and we will leave the sleeves as in the classic shirt model. Otherwise, the design of our dress will consist of the same details: on the back - a yoke and two embossed seams, on the front - a yoke, a stitched placket, and a turn-down collar with a stand.
For work we will use semi-adjacent silhouette shirt pattern with a stitched strap, that is, the pattern of the shelf should be increased along the bottom line and the neck by the width of the half-skid with a separately built strap.
bottom line. On a blank sheet, we outline the design of the shirt, placing the back and front at a distance from each other, marking the waist, chest and hips lines, armhole control points and the new position of the bottom line on the new pattern, extending the side and middle lines of the front and back to the same distance. By exactly the same amount, we will lengthen the pattern of the bar.
Along the line of the bottom of the shelf and back, we will make an extension of 4 cm and connect the points obtained with the side points along the line of the hips. The final bottom line can be drawn at the very end by folding the parts along the side cut.
Coquette shelves. First of all, we must pay attention to the fact that the yoke on the shelf does not pass through the supporting area. From the article about fashion design we have learned that if the relief seam does not pass through the reference area, then part of the tuck is preserved. Therefore, in order to build a yoke on a shelf, we will transfer the chest tuck to the side cut. To do this, draw an auxiliary line from the top of the tuck to the side line of the shelf.
Let's cut the shelf along the auxiliary line and close the chest tuck, while our pattern will open along the cut.
Now let's measure the distance along the back armhole line from the end shoulder point to the yoke line.
We will set aside this value along the line of the armhole of the shelf down from the end shoulder point (P 7) and mark the point K 3. From point K 3 to the right, we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the line of the front cut, we denote the intersection point by K 4.
Let's cut the shelf pattern along the line K 3 K 4.
And we will translate back the chest tuck.
Note: Please note that the height of the coquettes on the back and shelf is small (we built a yoke 8cm high along the middle seam of the back), but the height of the yoke can be increased. That is, the lowering of the yoke line depends on the intended model of the product, for example, if you want the patch pockets on the shelf to start from the yoke line, then the yoke line goes down to the pocket entry line. At the same time, do not forget that if the cut line of the yoke passes through the support section, then the chest tuck is transferred to the seam of the yoke.
Embossed cuts. On the pattern of the back, extend the middle line of the tail tuck to the line of the yoke and bottom. On the shelf, connect the top of the chest tuck with the top of the tuck tuck and extend the middle line of the tuck down to the bottom line.
Let's draw relief sections with smooth lines and cut the shelf and back along these lines.
And our pattern is ready.
In addition to the shirt dress, we will draw
Hello.
In this article, we will learn how to build a shirt design.
Clothes of a shirt cut primarily differ in the parameters and configuration of the armhole. The dimensions of the shirt armhole are larger than the dimensions of the armhole of the basic design of the dress, and the configuration of the shirt armhole is more expanded and deepened. Therefore, the details of the shirt pattern - the back and the shelf also differ in their parameters and configuration.
There are two ways to build a shirt design: apply constructive modeling of a basic dress pattern, or use the developed methodology to build a shirt design. In this article, we'll look at the second option.
To build a shirt pattern, we need the following measurements:
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half neck (Ssh) | |
Bust (Cg) | 40,5 |
Waist (St) | |
Half hips (Sat) | 44,8 |
Back length to waist (Dts) | |
Chest Height (Hg) | |
Shoulder length (Dp) | |
Product length (Di) |
In this cutting technique, we will consider two shirt silhouettes: semi-adjacent And straight. The shirt of a semi-adjacent silhouette assumes the presence of chest and tackle darts, while the product is quite free and dynamic. The shirt of a straight silhouette has no tucks, and the product itself is looser. As a result, the cut of these two silhouettes differs not only in the allowance for free fit, but also in some constructions. To build a pattern for a shirt with a straight and semi-adjacent silhouette, we will use the following allowances for a loose fit:
The increase along the chest line between the details of the structure is distributed as follows:
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, the length of which is 5-10 cm longer than the measurement of the length of the product.
Drawing grid
Product length and width. Stepping back from the top edge of a sheet of paper 5 cm, draw a rectangle AA 1 H 1 H, where the sides AH and A 1 H 1 are equal to the measure of the length of the product, and the sides AA 1 and HH 1 are the measure of the half-girth of the chest with an increase in free fit (AH = A 1 H 1 \u003d Di \u003d 68 cm; AA 1 \u003d HH 1 \u003d Cr + CO \u003d 40.5 + 5.5 \u003d 46 cm). note, in this example I used an increase for a semi-adjacent silhouette, if you draw a straight silhouette, then do not forget to substitute the appropriate allowances for a loose fit into the formulas (see table above).
Armhole depth. From point A, down in a straight line, lay off 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the chest + CO (see the table of increments) and put the point G (segment AG \u003d 1 / 3Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 3 + 9 \u003d 22.5 cm). From the point Г to the right we draw a horizontal straight line to the intersection with the segment A 1 H 1, we denote the intersection point Г 1.
Back Width. From the point G we set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the half-girth of the chest + CO (see the table of the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and get the point G 2 (segment GG 2 \u003d 1 / 3Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 3 + 3 cm \u003d 16.5 cm) . From the point G 2 upwards, we construct a perpendicular to the intersection with the side AA 1, we denote the intersection point by P.
Armhole Width. From G 2 to the right, set aside 1/4 measurements of the half-girth of the chest + CO (see the table of the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and mark the point G 3 (G 2 G 3 \u003d 1 / 4Sg + CO \u003d 40.5 / 4 + 0.5 \u003d 10.6cm). From the point G 3 upwards, draw a perpendicular to the intersection with the side AA 1, and denote the intersection point P 1.
Waistline. From point A down, set aside the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and put the point T (AT \u003d Dts \u003d 40 cm). From point T we draw a horizontal straight line to the intersection with the side A 1 H 1 and denote the intersection point T 1.
hip line. From point T down, set aside half the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB \u003d 1 / 2Dts \u003d 40: 2 \u003d 20 cm). Draw a horizontal line from point B to the intersection with the segment A 1 H 1, mark the intersection point B 1.
side line. Divide the segment G 2 G 3 in half, denote the intersection point G 4 (G 2 G 4 \u003d G 4 G 3), and lower the perpendicular down from this point to the intersection with the bottom lines, denote the intersection point H 2, and the intersection points with the waist lines and hips - T 2 and B 2.
Auxiliary armhole points. Let's divide the segments G 2 P and G 3 P 1 into three equal parts, denote the lower division points P 2 and P 3 (see Fig.).
Back construction
Back neck cut. From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm (for all silhouettes) and get point A 2 (AA 2 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5 cm). Up from point A 2 set aside 3 cm (for all silhouettes) and mark point A 3 (A 2 A 3 \u003d 3 cm). Let's draw the neck line with a smooth line, observing a right angle at point A.
Shoulder cut back. Set aside 3 cm from the point P down (for all silhouettes) and put the point P 4 (PP 4 = 3 cm). Now let's connect the points A 3 and P4, and on the resulting straight line from the point A 3 we set aside the measure of the length of the shoulder + CO (see the increase table) and put the point P 5 (A 3 P 5 \u003d Dp + CO \u003d 13 + 1.5 \u003d 14 .5cm).
Back armhole cut. We connect the points P 2 and G 4 with a dotted line and divide this segment in half, and from the division point we set aside 2 cm at a right angle and put the point P 6.
Let's make a cut of the armhole with a smooth concave line, connecting the points P 5, P 2, P 6 and G 4.
Back yoke. Down from point A, set aside 8cm and put point K (AK = 8cm). Draw a horizontal line from point K to the right until it intersects with the back armhole line, and denote the intersection point as K 1.
Down from the point K 1 along the line of the armhole, set aside 1 cm and put the point K 2 (K 1 K 2 \u003d 1 cm). Connect point K 2 with a smooth line to the coquette line.
Building a shirt shelf with a straight silhouette
Shelf neck cut. From the point G 1 upwards, set aside half the measurement of the half-girth of the chest and put the point P (G 1 P \u003d 1 / 2Sg \u003d 40.5: 2 \u003d 20.3 cm). Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length from the point P to the left.
Now from the point P to the left and down we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and mark the points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1 / 3Ssh + CO = 15: 5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm ). We connect the points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we divide in half and from the point P through this division point we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and get the point P 3 (PP 3 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 5 +0.5=5.5cm).
Let's make a smooth line cut the neck through the points P 1, P 3 and P 2, observing a right angle at the point P 2.
Shoulder section of the shelf. Let's build an auxiliary line by connecting the point P 1 with the upper point of dividing the segment PG 2 (see figure), on this line from the point P 1 to the left we set aside the measure of the length of the arm + CO and put the point P 7 (P 1 P 7 \u003d Dp + CO =13+2=15cm). Please note that now we are considering building a shelf for a straight silhouette shirt, so the increase in the formula corresponds to the increase for a straight silhouette.
Shelf armhole cut. Let us connect the points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, drop a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark the point P 8.
Let's make a cut of the armhole with a smooth line, connecting the points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.
This completes the construction of the straight silhouette shirt design.
Our pattern is ready!
Building a semi-adjacent silhouette shirt shelf
Shelf neck cut. From the point G 1 upwards, set aside half the measurement of the half-girth of the chest + 0.5 cm and put the point P (G 1 P \u003d 1 / 2Sg + CO \u003d 40.5: 2 + 0.5 \u003d 20.8 cm). Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length from the point P to the left.
Down and to the left of the point P, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and mark the points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1/3Ssh + CO = 15: 5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm) . We connect the points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we divide in half and from the point P through this division point we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and get the point P 3 (PP 3 \u003d 13 / Csh + CO \u003d 15: 5 +0.5=5.5cm). Let's make a smooth line cut the neck through the points P 1, P 3 and P 2, observing a right angle at the point P 2.
Shoulder cut and chest tuck. To the left of the point P 1 set aside 4cm and put the point B (P 1 B \u003d 4cm), down from the point B set aside 1cm, we get the point B 1 (BB 1 \u003d 1cm). Connect the points P 1 and B 1.
We add the lengths of the segments PP 1 and R 1 B (5.5 + 4 \u003d 9.5 cm), subtract 1 cm from this sum (9.5-1 \u003d 8.5 cm), put the resulting value to the left of the point G 1 and put the point G 5 (G 1 G 5 \u003d PP 1 + R 1 V-1 \u003d 8.5 cm). Let's connect the points G 5 and B 1, the segment G 5 B 1 is the right side of the chest tuck.
Now let's build an auxiliary line by connecting point B with the upper point of dividing the segment PG 2. Up from the point G 4 we draw a vertical straight line to the intersection with the auxiliary line, we denote the intersection point as O.
To the right of point O, we plot the length of the shoulder on the auxiliary line with an increase in free fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and put the point B 2 (OB 2 \u003d Dp + CO-R 1 B \u003d 13 + 1.5-4 \u003d 10.5 cm) . Further, from point G 5 upward through point B 2 we draw a segment, the length of which is equal to the right side of the tuck and we get point B 3 (G 5 B 3 \u003d G 5 B 1).
Down from the point O, set aside 3 cm and put the point O 1 (OO 1 \u003d 3 cm). Let's connect the points O 1 and B 3 with a thin line.
From point B 3 to the left along a thin line, we set aside the length of the shoulder with an increase in free fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and put the point P 7 (B 3 P 7 \u003d Dp + CO-R 1 B \u003d 13 + 1.5-4 \u003d 10 .5cm).
Shelf armhole cut. Let us connect the points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, drop a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark the point P 8. Let's make a cut of the armhole with a smooth line, connecting the points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.
Calculation of the solution of tucks along the waistline. From the width of the product, we subtract the measure of the half-circumference of the waist with an increase in free fit (AA 1 - (St + CO) \u003d 46- (30 + 3) \u003d 13 cm), the result is the sum of the solution of all darts along the waist line, where
the size of the solution of the front tuck = 0.25 of the total solution of the darts (13 x 0.25 = 3.3 cm),
the size of the side tuck solution = 0.45 of the total solution (13 x 0.45 = 5.8 cm),
the size of the back tuck solution = 0.3 of the total solution (13 x 0.3 = 3.9 cm).
Determining the width of the shirt along the hip line. Now, from the measurement of the half-girth of the hips with an increase in the free fit, we subtract the width of our product (Sb + CO-AA 1 \u003d 44.8 + 4-46 \u003d 2.8 cm), the result is the value of the expansion of the product along the hip line.
Side cut. From the point T 2 along the waist line to the right and to the left, set aside half the solution of the side tuck (we calculated its value a little higher) and mark the points that we will connect with straight lines to the point G 4.
From point B 2 along the hip line to the right and left, set aside half the value of the expansion of the product along the hip line and put points that we will connect with smooth convex lines to the solution points of the side tuck at the waist and extend these lines until they intersect with the bottom line.
Construction of a traveling tuck on the back. To the right of the point T, we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck + 0.5 cm and put the point T 3 (TT 3 \u003d 1 / 3Ssh + CO \u003d 15: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.5). From the point T 3 to the right, we set aside the value of the entire back tuck solution and get the point T 4 (T 3 T 4 \u003d 3.9 cm).
We divide the segment T 3 T 4 in half, and draw a perpendicular through the division point, not bringing it to the chest line 6 cm, and to the hip line 12 cm, this perpendicular is the middle line of the tuck. Let's connect points 6 and 12 with the solution points of the tuck T 3 and T 4.
Clarification of the waist line and the line of the bottom of the shelf. From point T 1 we set aside 1 cm down, connect the resulting point with a notch along the waist line along the side cut, observing a right angle at the point 1 cm. Down from the point H 1, we will also set aside 1 cm and connect it with a smooth line to the point of the bottom line along the side cut, while the angle at the 1 cm point should be straight.
Building a traveling tuck on a shelf. From the value of the segment G 1 G 5 we subtract 1.5 cm, put the resulting value to the left of the point 1 cm along the new waist line and put the point T 5 (1T 5 \u003d G 1 G 5 -1.5 \u003d 8.5-1.5 \u003d 7 cm ). Connect the points T 5 and G 5.
On the new waistline to the left of the point T 5, set aside the value of the solution of the front tuck and put the point T 6 (T 5 T 6 \u003d 3.3 cm). On the line G 5 T 5 down from the point G 5 we set aside 6 cm, we connect the resulting point with T 6.
We divide the segment T 5 T 6 in half, and from the division point we lower the perpendicular, without bringing 12 cm to the waist line. Now let's connect point 12 with points T 5 and T 6.
This completes the construction of the shirt design.
If a button fastener is provided in the shirt model, then the shelf must be extended along the neck line and the bottom line by the same distance - 1.5-2 cm and draw a new cut line for the shelf. The resulting line is a half-skid line, and on the middle line there are buttons on one part of the shelf and buttonholes on the second part.
Fastener sections can be processed in several ways:
Stitched strap ,
The width of which is twice the width of the semi-skid, the length of the plank is equal to the length of the shelf along the line of the semi-skid, while the upper cut of the plank repeats the cut of the neck of the shelf along the entire width of the plank.
One-Piece Plank ,
Its configuration is completed by extending the line of the bottom of the shelf by twice the width of the half-skid, and then drawing a vertical line upwards from the obtained point. The neck line on the bar is drawn symmetrically to the neck of the shelf relative to the half-skid line. When sewing a shirt with a one-piece placket, the placket itself is folded along the half-sliding line to the wrong side of the product.
Slipper clasp
It is a secret clasp, the buttons in such a clasp are hidden and are not visible from the front side of the product. The configuration of such a fastener is completed from a one-piece plank, extending the bottom line of the product by a length equal to twice the width of the bar. As a result, three bar widths are obtained along the bottom line, a vertical straight line is drawn upwards from each width. The neck line of the fastener is drawn symmetrically with respect to the line of the first bar. Along the half-skid line of the shirt, the fastener is folded to the wrong side, along the next vertical line, the fastener is bent, and along the next vertical line, the fastener is again folded to the wrong side and the cut line of the shelf (on the fastener) is sewn from the wrong side of the product. The slip fastener is built on only one part of the shelf, on which buttonholes are located, and only a one-piece bar is built on the part with buttons.
A shirt dress is a stylish outfit that Coco Chanel gave to women. In the days of corsets and crinolines, which she hated, the stylish thing became a real breakthrough and outright rebellion in the fashion world.
Patterns for shirt dresses are quite complex, and only a professional seamstress can build them from scratch. In this article, we will briefly describe how to do this. And after you understand the sewing pattern, the patterns of shirt dresses will no longer seem confusing to you.
From the history of fashion: from Coco to Yves Saint Laurent
The shirt dress was first seen in 1916. As mentioned above, it was introduced into fashion by Coco Chanel. She believed that the elements of a men's suit in a women's wardrobe are incredibly sexy. The shirt dress performed completely different functions. Depending on the style, it was worn at home, for a walk. The outfit, complemented by a crinoline, was suitable for special occasions.
After the Second World War, shirt dresses were sewn mainly in the military style. This was easily explained by the fact that a large number of military uniforms remained in the warehouses, which were altered for women. This outfit had clear lines. Patterns of shirt dresses had shoulder straps, many patch pockets. The product always had a stand-up collar.
Christian Dior introduced a new dress design to the world in 1950. It was a symbiosis and skirts with crinoline. The outfit was supposed to be worn with a leather or lacquer belt. The designer's flight of fancy was not limited to anything. A thing from the men's wardrobe was complemented by huge puffed sleeves or a pleated skirt. The latest in the designer's collections was just below the knee, and the sleeves of the dresses were elbow-length.
In the USSR, the shirt dress became popular after the film Carnival Night. The main character of Lyudmila Gurchenko appeared in this outfit at the New Year's celebration. Soviet girls fell in love with this elegant design. A shirt dress was sewn with their own hands. Patterns were built mainly using finished imported products.
In the 80s, the safari style gained popularity. It was promoted by the young Yves Saint Laurent. The style tends to be sporty, and a laconic shirt dress with shoulder straps and patch pockets fits perfectly into it. The color scheme of fashionable outfits varied. There were sand shades, khaki color, animal prints. The safari-style shirt dress is still a trendy outfit today.
Choose a model depending on the build
Before sewing a shirt dress, its pattern should be built depending on the build of the future hostess of the product. If you have a chiseled figure, but not tall, then a cropped shirt dress with a geometric print will do. Choose thin material and a straight silhouette.
With a tendency to be overweight, square prints and horizontal stripes should be avoided. Optimally - a monophonic outfit with a pointed collar and long sleeves.
Are you tall and have long, slender legs, but want to appear more petite? Suitable model of a free cut, hip-length. Wear such a thing with leggings or jeggings.
Denim shirt dress: pattern
In this tutorial, you will learn how to make a shirt dress pattern.
Start building it from the back. There is a yoke on the back of the dress. In the center of this part of the pattern, starting from the top of the neckline, lay down 8-12 cm. Draw a horizontal line from this mark.
To round the pattern along the armhole line, set aside one centimeter. The length of our product will reach the knees. This should be noted on the pattern.
To make the end of the side seams rounded, measure 8-10 cm along the edge on the side.
The front of the dress
Decide where the tuck will be on the front of the pattern. It will need to be transferred to the seam on the side.
A shirt dress pattern for both a woman and a girl cannot do without a collar. You will see it below.
But it differs from women's in that babies do not need tucks at chest level.
Where to wear a shirt dress
Denim shirt dress is the most current model. It is worn with a narrow leather belt. Short dresses can be worn with tight jeans or leggings.
A wonderful model for relaxing in a coastal restaurant is a long shirt dress made of lightweight fabric with slits on the sides. Also, for going to the beach, a translucent shortened model that is worn over a swimsuit is suitable.
Laconic plain safari-style dresses are suitable for women who work in the office. Also, the model will look great on a teacher or student. The simple cut of the product gives a lot of room for experiments with accessories.
How to complement the dress
A shirt dress is worn with massive jewelry. In the cold season, a tight denim model can be supplemented with a fur collar or vest.
Choose the height of the heel for the product according to the principle: the lower the skirt, the higher the heel and vice versa. This advice from designers should be taken into account when choosing shoes for any dress. A sign of lack of taste is a high heel plus a short skirt.
So, now you know what a shirt dress is, to whom it owes its appearance and how to sew a similar model with your own hands. Create with pleasure!
What can be sewn on this pattern
Electronic pattern of a straight shirt dress
Sizes: 42-62 (buyer gets all sizes)
PDF file format, finished pattern in full size without seam allowances
Price: 2 $ (payment in the currency of the buyer's country)
Sewing difficulty level: easy for beginners.
The model fits most figures. Straight cut silhouette.
According to this pattern, in addition to the shirt dress, you can cut tunic, blouse And denim dress.
In addition, the pattern can be used to model the above products.
And, if you combine the bodice of the shirt (cutting off the cut to the waist) with the “Tatyanka” or with the sun skirt, you get New look dress.
Fabric for a shirt dress, a set of patterns and how to download them.
For sewing a shirt dress, tunic or blouse, you can use any dress fabric, including thin jeans.
Exclusion of highly stretchable stretch.
The set of patterns, in addition to the shelf and back, includes two sleeves and a collar (Fig. 1).
Consumption depends on the length of the product and the length of the sleeve. You can calculate the cost like this:
Shelf length + sleeve length + 6 cm
Attention! This consumption formula is NOT suitable for products with a setting bar!
How to cut and sew a dress, tunic or blouse in one pattern
"I sew myself!" - a statement obliging to make a choice between many options. To make your choice conscious, consider the most obvious of them.
Cutting and sewing shirt dresses
Cutting a shirt dress is not difficult, but before cutting it, you need to make patterns of the length you need.
If desired, you can also make roundings on the bottom on the patterns. If you have not yet decided whether rounding is needed, you can make them on the details of the cut.
Consider those 
Nickname for performing rounding according to the template. We cut out a square from thick paper or cardboard (Fig. 2), the side of which is equal to the height of the cut.
We put the leg of the compass in one of the corners of the square and draw an arc with a radius equal to the height of the cut. We cut the square in an arc and use the resulting figure as a template.
On fig. 2 shows roundings of different sizes. The last one, in fig. 2c, is indented from the side seam.
Now let's deal with the sides and fasteners. On fig. 2a shows a shelf of a shirt dress with a set-in placket fastener.
In this case, the semi-skid allowance is not needed and the shelf is laid on the fold of the fabric.
If your dress, tunic or blouse provides for a one-piece selection (photo 1 and 3), 5-6 cm should be added to the half-skid. And for the tuning bar - 2.5-3 cm (photo 2).
About the rest of the allowances: side-shoulder, vertical sections of the sleeve, bottom - 1 cm, armholes, neckline, sprout, sleeve hem - for the stroke line of the pattern, collar stitching cut - 1 cm, and along the collar fly - 0.7 - 1 cm.
The cuff is rectangular, its width in cutting is 8-10 cm, and the length is equal to the girth of the wrist plus 6 cm.
As you can see, women's patterns are diverse.
How to cut a trim bar
As for the setting bar, you should be especially careful when placing it on the fabric, since it is it that is the most prominent part of the product.
In most cases, it should be cut along an oblique thread, and if the fabric is in a cage, on the upper (right for women) bar, the pattern should be the same throughout its entire length.
Of course, that additions in this detail are unacceptable - it must be integral.
From all these rules, it follows that the consumption of a product with a tuning bar, especially in a cage, may turn out to be more than for the same product with a one-piece selection or a slip fastener.
Keep this in mind when choosing a style variation.
On fig. 3 shows perhaps the most wasteful layout of a shirt dress. The back and collar patterns are laid to the fold, the tuning bar is along the oblique thread.
The sleeve is shirtless non-stop.
To save money in this case (Fig. 4), I suggest cutting the sleeve, stepping back ¼ of its width from the back seam, that is, at the place of the elbow roll.
Such cutting of the pattern into fragments will help save about 20 cm of fabric and facilitate the processing of the sleeve slots.
It remains to add that the width of the tuning bar is 4.5 - 5 cm, and in finished form - 2.5 - 3.
How to cut a dress with a Tatyanka skirt (photo 4) and a dress with a sun skirt
Of course, both models have a shirt-cut bodice.
We make patterns for shelves and backs up to the waist line.
Dress with a Tatyanka skirt (Fig. 5). The pick-up is one-piece.
Sleeve - ¾, while you can use both a sleeve with a fit and a shirt (non-stop) sleeve.
Cuff-lapel - a rectangle cut out along an oblique thread.
Its width in the cut is 8 - 10 cm, the length is equal to the width of the sleeve.
The skirt is a rectangle of fabric.
Open dresses with a flared "sun" skirt (Fig. 6) differs only in the skirt.
Pay special attention to the place where the sewing in of the non-stop sleeve is described.