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19.09.2019

For a healthy and aesthetic appearance, any plants - indoor and garden, large and small, fruit and ornamental - require nutrition in the form of basic fertilizers and periodic top dressing.

The presence of the required amount of nutrients in the soil depends on the set of green mass, abundant flowering and fruiting, as well as successful wintering.

Fertilizers are recommended to be applied regularly according to the calendar and nutrient requirements. This will help indoor plants maintain an attractive appearance and a healthy root system, garden plants - to resist pathogenic microorganisms in the soil, fruit plants - to produce large yields and protect themselves from pests.

What fertilizer and when to apply

The main nutrients for any plant organism are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Additional micronutrients.

Functions of basic fertilizers:

nitrogen - makes it possible to develop the aerial part - shoots and leaves. With a lack of nitrogen, the color of the foliage changes, wilting and drying out. Plants consume nitrogen throughout the entire growing season;
potassium - affects the formation of buds and flowers, feeding plants with potash fertilizers promotes root development. A lack of potassium causes foliage to fall off and makes the plant defenseless against fungal diseases;
phosphorus - regulates the consumption of nitrogen by the plant, affects the root system. Both the lack of phosphorus and its excess are harmful. In both cases, the balance in the nutrition and respiration of green spaces is disturbed.

When using mono-fertilizers, one should take into account the type, variety, composition of the soil, the amount of precipitation, indoor plant or growing in open ground, fruitful or decorative. The amount and concentration of nutrient solutions will depend on these factors.

Video: Recipes for simple and inexpensive dressings

In small doses, plants consume trace elements: calcium, boron, copper, zinc, magnesium and manganese, sulfur, iron, cobalt. For periodic top dressing, you can use complex fertilizers from microelements, or you can proceed from the composition of the soil and add only those that are less than the prescribed amount.

Mineral or natural organic fertilizers

With equal success, both mineral and organic fertilizers can be used to feed plants. To be more precise, for fruit crops in your summer cottage, in the presence of manure or chicken manure, it is better to use organic matter: it is more beneficial for plants and for humans. But mineral supplements are also suitable.

Decorative species, except for beauty, do not produce anything else, so for them you can limit yourself to mineral complex fertilizers. It is enough to protect the plant from pests and diseases, and it will gratefully bloom all summer.

If the farm is large and organic fertilizers are not enough for the entire area, then combinations can be made in the form of mixtures of nutrients - mineral and organic - taking into account all the factors (read above) that will affect the concentration of the solution.

Can top dressing replace the main fertilizer

Top dressing, which is applied to the soil to improve its quality and composition, can be divided into basic and auxiliary.

Basic fertilizer is the doses of nutrients (nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus) that are added autumn and early spring. During the winter, when plants are inactive, fertilizers have time to turn into an accessible form and by the onset of spring they will be ready for consumption. The same applies to indoor, greenhouse and container plants - before winter, the main part of mineral fertilizers is applied in the form of phosphorus and potassium, before the spring growing season, nitrogen is added in the form of urea or salts. This is the basis of the "diet" of vegetation.

Additional nutrient additions cannot make up for the lack of basic fertilizer. The additional introduction of components is intended to maintain a balance in plant nutrition. These are trace elements in the form of foliar top dressings for garden, container and fruit-bearing plants, additional doses of nitrogen nutrition, which are advisable to introduce on sandy soils. Spraying is carried out mainly in summer, when the appearance of plants shows a lack of any substance:

nitrogen - insufficient set of green mass, weak shoots;
phosphorus - discoloration and fall of foliage, it has a dark color, underdevelopment of the root system;
potassium - brown spots are observed on the leaves, buds or inflorescences are poorly formed.

The lack of trace elements in various types of soil leads to underdevelopment or death of plants. Trace elements are applied together with the main fertilizers, or if there are signs of deficiency.

The main nutrients for plant nutrition are in a certain proportion so that absorption is not disturbed. For example, phosphorus and nitrogen should be present in the soil in a ratio of 1.5/1. When the amount of substances changes, a power failure occurs.

Which top dressing is more effective - liquid or dry

If you choose between liquid or dry fertilizers, then for indoor and container plants you definitely need to choose liquid ones. It can be:

liquid organic fertilizers;
solutions of mineral fertilizers;
various tinctures of crushed green waste - mostly weeds.

Before making solutions under the root, it is necessary to moisten the soil in order to avoid burning the roots.

Video: What is the difference between liquid and dry fertilizers for indoor plants

Dry fertilizers are more often used for open ground, where natural precipitation ensures the dissolution of dry matter and its entry into the soil in an accessible form.

Dry nutritional mixtures must be applied to a depth of 20 cm so that the roots have access to fertilizer.

Candles for vegetation

Candles as a fertilizer are best used for indoor plants. This is a solid form that gradually dissolves under the action of watering. There are both pros and cons of such top dressing. The advantage is that some amount of nutrition goes to the roots. Minus - uneven distribution and being in the soil constantly, even in winter. After all, plants do not need a lot of nitrogen in winter, and it is present in candles throughout the entire cycle of application, which can disrupt the needs of the plant.

It is advisable to put candles in the ground near the stem, which will be the best options for the root system.

Methods for preparing dressings

You can prepare top dressing using manure, chicken manure, kitchen waste in the form of vegetable and fruit peels, bread, and yeast.

For garden species - flowers, trees, fruit-bearing crops, fertilizing from manure is done in advance. Manure must decompose, ferment to the desired state. To do this, a compost heap with a height of 1.5 meters. There are layers of manure, soil, grass, waste. After a year, the compost can be used.

The liquid substrate of manure or litter is prepared as follows: the dry matter is diluted with water and allowed to stand for 3-4 days, while active fermentation takes place. Then you can use it as a root top dressing.

It is desirable to add yeast to kitchen waste to enhance the fermentation and fermentation process, you can add green grass. When the tincture is ready, the grass is selected and used as mulch, and the plants are watered with the solution. Undissolved waste is introduced into the soil and added dropwise.

Chicken manure and manure contains a lot of potassium and nitrogen, but absolutely no phosphorus. Therefore, it is recommended to add phosphates. In this case, a complex full-fledged mixture is obtained.

Preparation of liquid organic dressings

To prepare the liquid form of the organic nutrient solution, cattle manure must be used. This is a universal remedy that is suitable for all plants - both garden and indoor.

There are forms of manure - litter and non-litter (fluid form). The second option is more profitable, as it ferments and ferments faster. Contains more than 50% ammonia nitrogen, which is better absorbed by green spaces.

Concentrated slurry is prepared as follows: 1 bucket of mullein is dissolved in 4 buckets of water, mixed and left in a warm place to ferment for several days - mostly from 4 to 7. Then one bucket of such slurry is diluted with another 4 buckets of water and green crops are watered at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 square meter. This top dressing is applied in the spring.

Manure must be well fermented so that excess uric acid evaporates, as it can burn the roots of young seedlings.

From autumn, concentrated liquid forms of supplements can be used. During the winter, organic matter will decompose and will not damage the roots.

The high temperature of manure decomposition (up to 70 degrees) during spring application will destroy young greenery

Plant nutrition in the garden

Garden greenery needs a more serious approach, as it is subject to frequent changes in temperature, precipitation, which leaches nutrients into deeper soil layers.

For the garden, top dressing in the form of the main fertilizer - potassium and phosphorus - is applied in the fall, which ensures safe wintering. In spring, nitrogen nutrition is the most necessary. Based on the qualitative composition of the earth - acidity, the thickness of the fertile layer - the optimal amount of fertilizer is selected.

To reduce acidity, chalk, slaked lime, dolomite flour are used. For saturation with boron - boric acid. It is also possible to carry out spraying with copper sulphate, a solution of pharmacy Trichopolum to prevent bacterial infection. Manganese is used as foliar top dressing.

Feeding container plants

Growing container ornamental crops differs little from caring for garden plantings. But for plants for which a large barrel or flower pot is a permanent place of residence, it is more expedient to fertilize by fertigation, in which nutrients are dissolved in water and thus applied under the root.

Why is this method better:

less likely to overdo it with dosages and damage the root system;
more economical use of fertilizers;
a convenient form of assimilation for greens;
regular and dosed nutrition.

Depending on the location of the container, less granular forms of fertilizer should be applied. If the pot is outside and exposed to natural precipitation, then the granules are suitable as top dressing. If indoors, then liquid forms are better with preliminary moistening of the earth.

How to properly feed indoor species

The needs of different types of indoor plants are different: cacti, ficuses, palms, orchids, violets. Firstly, the appropriate soil is selected for each species. For example, for cacti, a high content of sand is preferable, since such a composition does not retain moisture, which cacti are more accustomed to.

Indoor greens can be fed either root or foliar, but foliar applications are more effective on young plants. Adult species that have a gloss on the surface of the leaves do not perceive spraying.

There are differences in the feeding of bulbous and multi-colored (variegated) species. When selecting fertilizers, it should be borne in mind that exceeding the amount of organic matter will turn multi-colored leaves into ordinary green ones.

Indoor plants need to be fed with mineral fertilizers regularly, since the soil is completely depleted during the season, and plain water is not able to provide everything necessary for growth and flowering. In this case, lower concentrations of solutions should be used.

Fertilizer calendar

What to do in autumn:

apply mineral fertilizers - phosphorus and potassium to the soil;
add and dig fresh manure or droppings with the ground.

Spring events:

a week before planting, add humus (compost);
3 - 4 days before planting, add nitrogen fertilizers.

Top dressing with microelements is not always required and not by all species at once. Soils in different regions can have sufficient amounts of micronutrients, so you need to add them to the soil as needed.

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How to use fertilizers environmentally

The basis for obtaining high yields of cultivated crops and maintaining soil fertility is the use of organic fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers not only enrich the soil with nutrients, but also reduce its density, improve physical and chemical properties, water and air conditions. Organic fertilizers contain all the necessary plant nutrients. They help to activate the vital activity of beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the supply of plants with carbon dioxide. The positive effect of organic fertilizers on the fixation of heavy metals and radionuclides, on the purification of the soil from chemicals and the improvement of its phytosanitary condition has also been established.

The use of organic fertilizers not only increases the yield, but also improves its quality, increases soil fertility. However, errors in the preparation, storage, use or excessive increase in the rates of organic fertilizers can lead to a sharp deterioration in their fertilizing properties and harm the environment.

Losses of nutrients from organic fertilizers occur at all stages of the technological chain of manure use from its removal to its application: on the farm, during storage, transportation, during application and incorporation into the soil. The most significant loss of the most important element of plant nutrition - nitrogen. Nitrogen can volatilize as ammonia during disposal, transport and storage; in the form of a nitrate or organic form - during storage and after incorporation into the soil. Losses of phosphorus are associated with runoff during improper storage or with surface runoff after application to the soil. Potassium can be washed out in light soils in terms of mechanical composition if large doses are not applied in time.

On sod-podzolic, sandy and sandy loamy soils, the duration of the positive effect of organic fertilizers on the yield of cultivated crops is at least 3-4 years. On light loamy and clayey soils, it increases up to 6-8 years, and on heavy loamy soils - up to 10-12 years. At the same time, the yield increase from organic fertilizers in the first year of operation is 20-40% of the total increase for crop rotation.

Doses, timing and methods of applying organic fertilizers depend on their type, soil and climatic conditions, biological characteristics of crops. The most effective is the autumn application for autumn plowing.

When calculating the doses of organic fertilizers, it is envisaged to ensure a deficit-free balance of humus for the rotation of the crop rotation with its sufficient content in the soil or positive - with a low humus content of the soil.

In accordance with the Recommendations of the Helsinki Commission, the efficiency of manure management should be strengthened by setting an upper limit for the application of manure, corresponding to 170 kg of nitrogen per hectare per year.
With a shortage of organic fertilizers on the farm, it is more expedient to use them in smaller doses (taking into account mechanized application), but on a larger area.

When using organic fertilizers contaminated with heavy metals and other toxicants (sewage sludge, municipal waste, etc.), it is necessary to strictly comply with environmental requirements in accordance with current regulations.

Losses of nutrients from organic fertilizers can lead to pollution of surface and ground waters with nitrogen and phosphorus and contribute to the development of eutrophication of water bodies.

Norms of application of mineral fertilizers.

What is the advantage of mineral fertilizers? The fact is that in different periods of growth and development of plants, their need for nutrients is not the same.

During the growth period, plants need nitrogen most of all. During flowering and fruiting - in phosphorus and potassium (the latter is especially needed at the end of the growing season, that is, the period of active life, because even many indoor plants go dormant in winter). Mineral fertilizers can give the plant exactly what it needs, and when it needs it.

The disadvantage of mineral fertilizers is that they alone cannot be dispensed with. Remember, a plant needs eight macronutrients. And mineral fertilizers are “dedicated” to only three of them. They were invented and created based on agricultural land, and any field is an open system, and some substances consumed by crops (for example, magnesium or sulfur) in it will safely continue to come from neighboring land plots. Such a luxury is not available to a houseplant, natural resources are separated from it by the walls of a gram orshka (and the walls of an apartment).

There is another important (but rarely mentioned) circumstance: the use of mineral fertilizers can affect other soil properties, such as acidity, salinity, etc., which requires a particularly careful and careful approach to their use.

According to the predominance of one or another element (“active substance”), mineral fertilizers are divided into nitrogen, phosphorus, potash and complex.

There are 2 ways to apply mineral fertilizers: basic fertilizer (before planting) and top dressing (during the growing season). They can be used both in solid form (when applied directly to the soil) and in the form of a solution. Solutions should be used immediately after preparation.

In no case do not try to apply dissolved mineral fertilizers more than once every ten days!

nitrogen fertilizers

Nitrogen fertilizers include: ammonium nitrate (it is also ammonium nitrate or ammonium nitrate), ammonium sulfate (ammonium sulphate), sodium nitrate (it is also sodium nitrate, or sodium nitrate), urea, calcium nitrate (it is also calcium nitrate, or calcium nitrate), montan saltpeter (it is also lane-nitrate, or ammonium sulfonate), calcium cyanamide, ammonium chloride, etc. In short, everything, gram; where the words “nitrate”, “ammonium”, or parts of the words “ amide" or "nitro" (the chemical name for "nitrogen" is "nitrogenium"), refers specifically to this nutrient.

Attention! A typical feature of mineral fertilizers: as a rule, they are far from chemically neutral (in this case, urea is a happy exception) and their action is not limited to the supply of nutrients to the plant, and it is better to write out or remember the “side effects” of each of the nitrogen fertilizers separately.

Ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, nitrate and ammonium chloride acidify the soil.

Sodium nitrate, calcium nitrate and calcium cyanamide alkalinize the soil. In addition, calcium cyanamide at the first stage of its transformation in the soil forms quite toxic compounds (it is no coincidence that its name itself echoes the name of cyanic acid), therefore it is not suitable for top dressing at all: it is introduced into the soil in the fall.

So, before you apply a nitrogen mineral fertilizer, make two adjustments to that:
1) what acidity does the original soil have;
2) what environment the plant prefers.

Only in this way you can choose not only the necessary, but also safe fertilizer for use. If, for some reason, the choice of fertilizers turns out to be limited, and the available substances can change the acidity in an undesirable direction, take care to neutralize them.
Attention! Do not trust the rumors that you should use liquid ammonia as a mineral fertilizer (a solution of ammonia in water, which can also be found in a pharmacy). Although there is a lot of nitrogen in it, ammonia vapor causes severe burns in the plant if this substance is located at a depth of less than 10-12 cm. In agriculture, special machines are used to introduce it into the soil. On the garden plot (and even more so at home) it should not be used at all.
Application rates of nitrogen fertilizers
Ammonium nitrate, urea and moptan-nitrate: in dry form - from 10 to 25 grams, in solution - from 4 to 8 grams per 1 m2. Potassium cyanamide, ammonium chloride (due to the relatively small amount of active ingredient, the dose could be larger, but it is reduced to avoid side effects): 20 - 30 grams in dry form per 1 m2. Ammonium sulfate - 30-50 grams in dry form per 1 m2. Sodium and calcium nitrate: up to 70 grams per 1 m2.

Nitrogen fertilizers (except cyanamide) should be applied in the spring, since at this time of the year, nitrogen starvation most often threatens plants. They are used as the main, not top dressing.
Phosphate fertilizers
Traditional phosphorus fertilizers are simple and double superphosphate, precipitate, tomasslag, thermophosphate, phosphorite and bone meal (the latter, nevertheless, taking into account the origin, it is more logical to consider it as a simple organic fertilizer, see above).

Phosphate fertilizers can be used both as basic and for top dressing. The spread of their chemical properties is much less than that of nitrogen fertilizers.

Simple and double superphosphate differ in the degree of concentration, and hence the application rates to the soil: simple - for the main fertilizer 30-50 grams, for top dressing - 15 -25 grams per 1 m2, double - for the main 14 - 28 grams, for top dressing 10 grams per 1 m2. Both are best used in a mixture with humus due to the tendency to form compounds that are hard to reach for plants from interaction with the soil. The granular form is especially effective.

The precipitate is close in action to superphosphate, it is used mainly as the main fertilizer. The norm is the average between simple and double superphosphate.

The peculiarity of slag and thermal phosphates is that, unlike the previous ones, they cannot be mixed with ammonia fertilizers. There is little difference between these two substances in the concentration of phosphorus. The rates for both are similar to those for simple superphosphate.

Phosphorite flour contains few readily available forms of phosphorus, therefore it is used as the main fertilizer (more often in autumn) in large doses - up to 80 grams per 1 m2. This fertilizer can act for several years. For indoor plants, the use of phosphate rock is not very convenient, since the volume of soil in the container is small. An important point: the higher the acidity of the soil, the better the phosphate rock is absorbed. For the same reason, it goes well with acidic nitrogen and potassium fertilizers.

potash fertilizers
The most important potash fertilizers include potassium chloride, 30-40% potassium salts, sylvinite, kainite, potassium sulfate, potassium-magnesium sulfate (kalimashezia) and carnallite, with sylvinite (a natural mineral) being the starting material for the production of most of the rest, which largely determines the commonality of their properties. Cainite and carnallite are independent natural minerals containing, in addition to potassium, magnesium necessary for plants. Magnesium is also present in potassium magnesia.

All potash fertilizers can be used on any soil and are highly soluble in water. The disadvantage of many is the presence of chlorine, so on saline soils and for crops sensitive to chlorine, it is better to use potassium sulfate. Cainite and carnallite require more moisture.

Application rates. Potassium chloride: for the main fertilizer 20-40 grams, for top dressing - 3-5 grams; potassium sulfate: for the main fertilizer 10-15 grams, for top dressing - 2-4 grams; potassium salts: 30-40 grams; potassium magnesia - 25-35 grams; other potash fertilizers - 40-60 grams per 1 m2.

lime fertilizers
This is a special category of fertilizers, since they simultaneously serve as ameliorants of acidic soils, which sometimes leads to confusion: both of their roles are quite important. Their nutrient is calcium.

The most famous and common lime fertilizers are: tuff, ground limestone, slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, marls, cement dust and peat ash.

The ameliorative alkalizing effect of lime fertilizers is so strong that for soils with a pH above 5.5 it is better not to use them at all, especially potent ones (slaked lime, ground chalk, dolomite flour, cement dust). A tea bush, for example, will not like this fertilizer at all.

Due to the fact that the dosage strongly depends on the acidity of the soil and its mechanical composition (for sandy and sandy soils, lime fertilizers are required one and a half to two times less!), It is difficult to give specific norms.

Complex fertilizers
Complex fertilizers are those mineral fertilizers that contain two or three NPK elements. These include ammophos, nitrophoska, nitroammofoska, potassium nitrate and wood ash.
Ammophos (simply ammophos and diammophos) are ammonia salts of phosphoric acid, that is, double fertilizers. Ammophos dissolve easily. The disadvantage of this compound fertilizer is that it is relatively low in nitrogen. In addition, ammophos slightly acidify the soil.

Nitrofoska and nitroammofoska are triple fertilizers. Nitrophoska contains relatively little phosphorus, its application rate is 45-60 grams per m2. Nitroammophoski requires a little less - 40-50 grams. They are applied in the spring as the main fertilizer and in the summer as top dressing.

Potassium nitrate is a double concentrated fertilizer. Application rate - 12 - 18 grams per m2.

Wood ash is not even a triple fertilizer, it contains almost all the necessary elements, but ... much more is required: from a quarter to half a kilogram per m2 due to the not very good availability of nutrients. Sometimes wood ash is also considered as lime fertilizer.

Home fertilizers

Today, it is rare in any household to have a cow, goats, or chickens. With fertilizers, each owner of the site gets out as best he can. You can get out and so, for example, prepare a cheap and effective fertilizer.
In winter, put vegetable peelings and waste in a large barrel. Do not report the barrel to the edge by 1/3. In the spring, top up the barrel with water, and pour the biostimulant into it. The composition of the biostimulator is an EM-Preparation, it consists of 4 liters of water, 40 ml of Baikal EM-1 concentrate, honey (3-4 tablespoons) or EM-Molasses. Leave for a week, maybe more.

Close the barrel with a lid or boards. After about three days, a silage smell will begin to come from the barrel. After another 3-4 days, the fertilizer is ready. Drain the liquid infusion and water the ground before digging, diluting 1 liter of infusion in a bucket of water.

Spread the thick part on the ground and dig up.
In the spring, things go even faster, because any vegetation is laid in the barrel: weeded weeds (preferably without soil, since it will be difficult to clean the barrel, “extra” zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers (chopped with an ax or cut with a knife), wormy apples, etc. In general, everything that blooms and bears fruit.This is an excellent extractor, and even with the help of EM Technologies, perfectly restores the soil.

It can be done even easier. Close the already filled barrel tightly, for example, cover and tie with a piece of plastic wrap. In the barrel, beneficial bacteria will quickly begin to multiply, which will make its contents the most valuable fertilizer.

Without Baikal EM-1, this process will also take place, but much more slowly and the fertilizer will contain less useful Effective Microorganisms, as well as less nitrogen.
You will have to wait more than 2 weeks.

In this way, you can constantly have fertilizer on the farm, like on a conveyor. One portion ends, start laying the next, in an empty barrel.

And your work will be rewarded! Plants will grow quickly, produce large fruits.

And if you constantly apply EM-Technologies, then the taste of fruits will improve, and their storage in winter will be extended. And the soil will be renewed and restored.

Tip: In the spring, you can quickly restore the soil on the site. In the fall, take a few buckets of earth and put it in the cellar and pour over it with EM-Solution. In the spring, before processing, scatter the earth from the buckets over the site. The result is this: in winter, in frozen soil, most of the beneficial bacteria die, and it will take a long time for them to recover. And the earth that was in the cellar is filled with these bacteria. On the site, they quickly begin to multiply, which is good and quickly restore the land after winter.

Home Fertilizers - Proper Use for a Good Harvest

Gardeners and gardeners are well aware that ash is an excellent fertilizer, cheap and accessible to everyone. In addition, ash also neutralizes the soil, that is, it is useful to apply it on slightly acidic soils (other deoxidizers must be used on strongly acidic soils).

Generally speaking, after burning, mineral fertilizer remains, which usually contains up to 30 nutrients needed by the plant. Among them are potassium, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, silicon, sulfur, and various trace elements. There is practically no nitrogen in the ash, its compounds volatilize with smoke.

However, ash is different and its value depends on what exactly was burned.

For example, the ashes obtained by burning grass, straw, leaves contain a lot of potassium. By the way, excellent ash is obtained from potato tops: it contains about 30% potassium, 15% calcium, 8% phosphorus, and a large number of trace elements needed by plants.

The ash obtained by burning buckwheat straw and sunflower stalks is very rich in potassium, although it contains slightly less potassium than wood ash. Rye and wheat straw contains a maximum of phosphorus - up to 6%.

Hardwood ash (elm, oak, ash, beech, maple, poplar, larch) contains a lot of potassium (most of it is in elm ash).

In the ashes from soft wood (linden, spruce, pine, alder, aspen), potassium is also present, but in a smaller amount. However, it is worth mentioning separately about birch: although it belongs to soft rocks, the ash from it turns out to be excellent - it contains a lot of potassium, phosphorus and calcium.

The ash obtained from the burning of young trees contains more potassium than the ash of mature trees.

Application

The effectiveness of ash increases when used together with manure, peat, compost and humus.

Under cucumbers, zucchini and squash, 1 cup of ash is added for digging, 1-2 tbsp. l. in the hole when planting seedlings, and in the middle of the growing season as top dressing - another 1 glass per 1 m2 with embedding in the top layer of soil and watering.

For tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, it will need more - 3 cups per 1 m2 for digging, when planting seedlings - a handful in the hole.

Under cabbage of different types, 1-2 cups of ash per 1 m2 are brought in for digging, when planting seedlings - a handful in the hole.

When cabbage, radish, radish and rutabaga plants form 2-3 true leaves, they are recommended to be dusted with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust (1: 1) from cabbage fly and cruciferous flea.

For onions and winter garlic, ash is applied for autumn digging at the rate of 2 cups per 1 m2, and in spring as top dressing - 1 cup per 1 m2 with embedding in the soil.

Before sowing peas, beans, lettuce, watercress, radishes, dill, it is better to dig up the ashes together with the soil at the rate of 1 tbsp. ash per 1 m2 of land.

Under carrots, parsley, radishes and table beets, you need 1 glass of ash per 1 m2.

Under potatoes, ash is brought in in the spring for digging at the rate of 1 glass per 1 m2, and when planting - 2 matchboxes under a tuber in a hole, mixing the ash with the ground. Before planting, the tubers can be powdered (30-40 kg of tubers will require 1 kg of ash).

Further, the ash is used as top dressing: at the first hilling of potato plants, 1-2 tbsp. l. ash, and during the second hilling (at the beginning of budding), the dose is increased to 0.5 cups under the bush.

Wood ash is useful to add to the compost heap, pouring over each layer of food waste and mowed lawn grass or weeds. Ash slightly reduces the acidity of the compost, creates favorable conditions for the development of microorganisms, the work of earthworms.

Ash coal
The ash obtained by burning coal requires a special discussion. It is low in potassium, phosphorus and calcium, that is, it should not be used as a fertilizer. However, coal ash contains up to 60% silicon oxides, so it can be used instead of sand to drain and loosen wet clay soils to improve their structure.

It is necessary to say about one more feature of this ash: there is a lot of sulfur in coal, so sulfates appear in the ash, as a result, coal ash does not neutralize (unlike wood ash), but acidifies the soil. Thus, coal ash should not be applied on acidic and sandy soils, but it is suitable for saline soils (ash sulfates displace carbonates, soluble salts are formed that are washed out of the soil with rains, and salinity decreases). Salt soils most often have an alkaline reaction, so coal ash is also useful from this point of view - it acidifies the soil.

Application

On slightly acidic and neutral soils, the use of coal ash is permissible if calcium nitrate, ammonium carbonate and bicarbonate, manure and bird droppings are added simultaneously with it. This can be done in small quantities - up to 3 kg per hundred square meters, before winter.

Coal ash is also used as a high sulfur fertilizer for onions, garlic, cabbage, radish, swede, mustard, horseradish, which require this element.

how to use fertilizers, healthy fertilizers, home fertilizers

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Andrey Streltsov February 25, 2014 | 1042

All garden plants take a large amount of nutrients out of the ground with a crop. So that the soil does not deplete, and yields do not decrease, you need to remember about regular top dressing.

Fertilizers are of two types: organic and mineral. Organic include manure, compost and humus. Mineral fertilizers can be simple (saltpeter, superphosphate, potassium sulfate) and complex (nitroammophoska, Azofos, etc.).

Features of the use of organic matter in the garden

Organic matter is the most valuable fertilizer, because it not only gives nutrients to the soil, but also improves its structure, makes it loose and moisture-intensive. It is only necessary to remember that fresh manure is not used in the spring, but only brought in before winter. Compost and humus can be fertilized in the spring at the rate of about a bucket per square meter. m. Since the garden is usually not dug up in the spring, organic matter is simply scattered on the surface of the soil under trees, bushes, in rows of strawberries and slightly mixed with the soil with a rake. Next, earthworms will get down to business - they will close up all the fertilizer to a depth.

Rules for the use of mineral fertilizers

In spring, the garden first of all needs nitrogen fertilizers. These are urea, ammonium sulfate and saltpeter (ammonia and nitrogen). It is useful to use potassium nitrate, since it contains two active substances at once - nitrogen and potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers dissolve easily, so one of the ways to apply them is to spread them directly on the melted snow. This can be done if the site is not on a slope, otherwise the melt water will carry the fertilizer with it to the nearest lowland. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied according to the norms specified in the instructions on the package. You can independently calculate how much fertilizer is required, knowing that in the spring fruit trees and grapes need about 9 g of nitrogen per square meter. m, shrubs - 6 g, strawberries - 5 g. These are very average figures, but you can somehow navigate them. How much nitrogen is in your fertilizer is listed on the package. For example, urea contains about 50% nitrogen, therefore, it is applied under trees not at 9 g, but twice as much.

The dose is calculated according to the same principle. potash fertilizers(potassium chloride and sulfate, potassium magnesia, potassium nitrate) and phosphoric(superphosphate.) Potash fertilizers are usually applied in the fall, because their main property is to increase the frost resistance of plants. So in the spring you can do without them. In turn, superphosphate dissolves slowly and difficultly, so it is brought into the ground in the spring so that it has time to dissolve by the time it becomes needed - by the time the fruits grow. Phosphorus is required as much as nitrogen, i.e. for trees - 9 g, shrubs - 6 g, strawberries - 5 g of active ingredient per 1 sq.m.

Difficult to calculate dose complex fertilizers, where there are several active ingredients at once. They can be recognized by complex names that indicate the presence of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the composition. So, the name "nitroammofoska" suggests that there is nitrogen in two forms at once (nitrate and ammonium), phosphorus and potassium.

Phosphorus fertilizer it is extremely important to close up deeper into the soil, so superphosphate is applied in the spring only if spring digging is planned. Otherwise, only nitrogen is added in spring, and phosphorus and potassium are given to plants later (in the form of foliar top dressing) or during autumn digging of the soil in tree trunks.

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With the onset of cold weather, a scarf becomes an integral element of the wardrobe. It always warms in the cold season. In addition, it is an accessory that can advantageously emphasize individual style and stand out from the crowd. A scarf can even tell others about some of the character traits of its owner.

We can say that this is the final touch that completes the image. There are a huge number of options for tying a scarf around your neck. This is important when creating your own style. How to do it beautifully over the jacket, you can learn from the step-by-step photos below.

How to tie a scarf over a jacket

Choosing a scarf is a serious and responsible business. In fact, the whole image depends on it. An unsuccessful choice of accessory can nullify all efforts to create a harmonious style. While a suitable scarf will make its owner brighter and more expressive.

Shops offer a wide range with different textures, patterns, prints. Among the monochromatic options, there are also interesting color schemes.

The first thing to remember: when choosing a scarf, do not overload the image. In the presence of a plain and simple jacket model, you should use bright scarves, with patterns, tassels. Perfect accessories in a "wrinkled" style. Here you can and should experiment. If the jacket is of an unusual style and bright, the scarf should be discreet, preferably plain, harmoniously fitting into the image, without distractions.

If the jacket is without a collar, then choosing a scarf is easy. A voluminous accessory tied over a jacket will look good. An interesting option is suitable - snood. If there is a hood, the accessory is tied from under the bottom.

The most popular original options on how to beautifully tie a scarf around your neck over a demi-season jacket are presented in step-by-step photos:

This method requires a long warm scarf. It wraps around the neck so that one end is lower than the other. In this position, it is worth fixing the accessory with a brooch on both sides.
You will need a thin and wide scarf. Lay it out in front so that it sags a little, gathering the material into a drapery. Attaching to the neck and wrapping the ends around it, stretch forward the crossed edges. The scarf should cover the shoulders freely and easily.
This method is similar to the one above.. The difference is that the ends of the accessory are shaped into a voluminous knot in front.
The most stylish option is tying in the form of a "harness". Suitable for scarves made of thin material. To get a tourniquet from a scarf, it is worth twisting it and making a turn around the neck. On one of the two sides, form a small, elegant "flagellum".

Despite the external airiness, it turns out a scarf that can cover from winds and frost. A thing worn in this way over a jacket looks great, stylish and practical.

Scarves for leather jackets

Special attention should be paid to scarves for linking with leather jackets. These short things are always at the forefront of the ranking of the most fashionable outerwear. They can be worn for almost a whole year, choosing the option depending on the season. With spring jackets, a cotton scarf or products made from other natural materials will work well. It might even be silk.

Multi-colored and plain, with or without prints, decorated with sequins, rhinestones, they will perfectly complement a stylish look. For autumn, you should choose warm and dense options.

With a leather jacket, a scarf tied in the form of a French knot looks great. The product is folded in half, thrown around the neck. The ends are pulled forward. Thus, it turns out on the one hand - a loop, on the other - "tails". They need to be threaded into the middle of the loop, leaving the scarf hanging freely.

A good option for a scarf would be a simple classic model of medium length, in the same color palette as the jacket. The accessory should not stand out too much.

Voluminous scarves look spectacular, carelessly tied as if on the go. To do this, make a couple of turns around the neck and tie the ends with a free knot. You can leave them hanging. This option is perfect for scarves made of chiffon, knitwear and even wool.

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With a skillful choice of a scarf and the method of tying it, you will not need additional accessories and jewelry. This interesting element alone is enough for the image to acquire its own “melody” and diversify gray everyday life.

How to tie a scarf over a jacket with and without a collar

Method for any outerwear: jackets, with and without a hood:

Throw a scarf over your outerwear.
Make a turn from behind and throw forward.
Pull one end of the accessory to the middle, fix with a knot. Do the same with the second part.
Hide the resulting "tails" in the folds of the product.

How beautiful and stylish to tie a scarf

The method of wrapping a scarf around the neck with careless free ends allows you to hide from bad weather, piercing wind and low temperatures. It can also create a business stylish look for every day.

If the jacket has a collar, the scarf is tied under it in various ways, as described above.

French bun complicated

Another option, it is more complex, but no less original:

Throw a double-folded accessory behind the back.
Tie them in the back of your neck.
Pass the edges under the collar in front, pulling them up.

There are a huge number of options for how to beautifully tie a scarf around your neck over a winter or demi-season jacket. Regardless of the texture, material, colors, it must be in harmony with the female image. You can focus on it and this is welcome, and therefore you should not be afraid to experiment.