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Spline processing. Pattern of a pencil skirt and creation of original models of skirts based on it Pattern of a classic straight skirt with a vent

Hello, my dear readers of the blog “site”. Time passes, but interest in Processing the skirt cut with a vent does not decrease. Therefore, today we will look in detail at what a slot is and what it is “eaten with”)).

Seamstresses with many years of experience do not even build the vent on the drawing, but do it directly on the fabric. But today we will better learn how to draw a spline.

Spline length

The length of the vent directly depends on the length of the skirt, it can be from 10 to 30 cm, I will take my value - 22 cm from the bottom line of the skirt, the main thing is that the distance from the level of the hips to the beginning of the vent is not less than 15 cm.

Spline width

The width of the vent varies between 4-7 cm. The choice of width depends on the quality of the fabric from which the skirt is sewn; for light fabrics it is preferable to take 4-5 cm; for warm thick fabrics it is better to make a vent 7 cm wide.

The vent is sewn in such a way that the left side of the skirt overlaps the right. When laying out the pattern on the fabric and when calculating how much fabric is needed for the skirt, take into account the extra 6-8 cm in the back middle seam of the skirt, i.e. The width of both halves of the rear panel will be larger by the width of the slots with allowances.


After cutting out the skirt parts from the fabric, you need to glue the slot parts with an adhesive gasket so that the slot holds its shape and does not hang like a rag, especially for skirts made of light fabrics.

On the left part of the skirt we glue the vent so that the doubler tape extends 0.5 cm beyond the contour line of the bottom and the vent line. And on the right part we glue the allowance for the vent in the same way, and not the vent itself. Also, the dublerin extends beyond the contour lines of the allowance by 0.5 cm vertically and horizontally.

First, take the right side of the skirt and iron a centimeter allowance to the wrong side.

Now we fold both halves of the skirt (both right and left) face to face and sew using a machine along the middle seam to the very end, sewing the details with vents along the top edge. Don't forget to leave room in the middle seam for a hidden zipper.

In this case, the vent itself is ironed onto the left side of the skirt; you can even mark out the place where the vent will be folded from the very beginning.

We've sorted out the upper part of the slot.

Now you need to process the bottom of the skirt.

Folding the bottom on the slot

We begin to process the bottom of the skirt when the process of sewing the skirt is almost complete, that is, the zipper, belt are sewn in, and a buttonhole is made.

When calculating allowances along the bottom line of the skirt, it is better to take 2-3 cm (but not 1 cm!).

Along the entire bottom of the skirt, iron the hem allowances to the wrong side.

Now on the right side of the slot we turn the hem allowance over to the front side of the skirt and sew the allowance along the side, moving 2-3 mm from the edge. Turn it right side out, you should get a clean corner.

On the left side of the slot you need to make an envelope corner.



I would like to make a note: the principle of the spline is that the left side overlaps and overlaps the right. Therefore, the left side should be 2 mm lower than the right side. Under no circumstances should you allow the right side to peek out from under the left side of the slot!

The stitching is laid across the entire width of the vent, so ironed allowances are sewn on the wrong side and the upper parts of the vent are secured.

All that remains is to hem the bottom of the skirt.

This can be done using a spider web, paper adhesive tape, or manually (choose your preferred method).

Watch also the video about how to properly process a cut with a slot:

Also watch a detailed video about the second method of processing slots - on a lining:

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Every woman should have a straight or pencil skirt. Such skirts, as a rule, have a slit or vent at the back for freedom of movement. And if you want to sew a skirt with a vent with your own hands, you need to know how the vent is processed correctly.

The allowance for the slot on the left rear panel is completely duplicated with non-woven material, on the right - only a vertical cut of the allowance to a width of 1 cm - Fig. 2. Only after this do we sew the back middle seam to the bottom.

We will remove the stitching in the slot area, so make a larger stitching step here.

We iron the vent allowances onto the left side of the skirt, then adjust them to the desired height - Fig. 3a. We check the height of the slots during fitting and make a good fastening here on the middle seam back and forth 2-3 times on the middle seam so that the seam does not tear when worn.

We overcast each section separately from the waist to the bottom, on the right allowance under the vent we make a narrow hem vertically (stitch to the edge) - Fig. 3b.

We combine processing of the bottom of the skirt with processing of the slots - Fig. 4.

We overcast the hem allowance for the bottom of the skirt, turn it to the wrong side and iron it.

At this stage, you need to secure the slot so that it does not turn away. To do this, place the slot halves exactly on top of each other, as they should be, and pin them in this position so that the slot does not open. The accuracy of this action determines whether the finished slot will diverge to the sides.

On the front side we draw an inclined line from the very beginning of the slots at the top left and down - Fig. 6(A). We lay a line along it, at the beginning and at the end of the line we make fastenings with several stitches back and forth.

Iron the back middle seam (above the vents) - Fig. 6(B).

We sew the left allowance for the vent by hand to the hem of the bottom so that it does not turn away when moving - Fig. 7. The fastening should be very loose, not tight.

You can sew a universal pencil skirt, sizes 44-56, yourself, even if you are just learning to sew. At the same time, the most important thing is to consistently, correctly and accurately perform all operations: cutting, basting the skirt for fitting, then stitching and ironing.

In this master class, using photos and detailed descriptions, I will show you how to sew a straight skirt with a wide yoke, with decorative triangular elements on the sides of the front, with belt loops and a vent, and a lining. In the top photo the lines of the yoke and decorative elements are drawn in blue, and in the bottom photo 1 the details, stitching, yoke and slots are clearly visible. This model is ideal for sizes 48-50. Especially if it is sewn from a plain fabric.

Narrow and stitched triangles that imitate pockets help to visually reduce the volume of the hips, and the skirt looks more interesting than a simple model with a facing or a belt. If you are sewing a skirt with a belt, then skip the first section of the master class, which shows how to cut out a model with a yoke and decorative elements.

Calculation of fabric for a straight skirt.

With a standard fabric width of 1.5 meters, for sizes 44-52, you only need a cut, the length of which is calculated as follows: length of the skirt + 15-20 centimeters for the hems of the bottom and top, and for the belt. For a model with a yoke, the calculation is different: skirt length + 25-30 centimeters, taking into account allowances for the yoke.

With a hip circumference of 90-104 centimeters, with this fabric width, you can easily cut out models even with a wide vent. With a hip circumference of 106-120 cm, models with a single shallow vent or with a slit are obtained.

Before we open it.

Be sure to decat the fabric - iron it completely from the wrong side, folded in half, but without ironing the fold - it can be ironed by unfolding the fabric. The iron temperature and steam level should be maximum so that the fabric “shrinks”, and after the first wash the sewn item does not give you unpleasant surprises.

Artificial fabrics may not shrink or shrink slightly. Natural fabrics: linen, cotton and wool can shrink 3-5 cm per meter of fabric length. But there are practically no 100% natural fabrics now. It is impossible to predict how artificial fibers will behave under the influence of high temperature and steam.

Therefore, be sure to check the temperature of the iron on the side of the fabric. Some of them react normally to ironing, others begin to shrink before our eyes, turning into corrugated fabric. Reducing the temperature is easy, but from such fabrics it is impossible to sew models in which it is necessary to glue the yokes or waistband with thermal fabric.

I also recommend checking the direction of the pile. As a rule, velvet and woolen fabrics with long pile are cut in its direction. But corduroy, for example, thanks to its short pile, can be cut in the opposite direction - it looks more interesting and brighter.

Long skirts or the lower part of a trapeze-style dress are usually sewn from fabric with a wide coupon, so as not to disturb the pattern. But if the coupon, even a wide one, consists of small elements, you can sew a skirt of 6 wedges, or a “godet” style skirt, if the extension at the bottom is made small.

Sometimes fabrics, even without lint, change color or shade depending on the direction of the fabric. Hold the piece towards you, remember the color, and turn it over. If the color shade remains the same, you can cut out skirts with wedges from such fabrics, placing them in different directions.

We cut out a straight, slightly tapered skirt with a wide yoke.

Cut out the front half.

Lay the fabric with the right side facing you and fold, for example, the right half in half, with the wrong side facing you, aligning the edge and the center fold of the fabric. Even after ironing, as a rule, it remains noticeable.

Then slide the fabric to the desired width, maintaining the same distance between the edge and the fold, top and bottom. This is necessary so that the center of the front half of the skirt runs along the grain thread. Why it is necessary to follow the direction of the fractional direction is in the article.

If you are sewing a model with a belt and without decoration, cut it as shown in photo 2 on the top collage, leaving 1.5-2 cm for the side seams. If you are cutting out a model with a yoke, I recommend immediately cutting out the front piece and two yokes, an outer and an inner one, with a fold - photo 3.

After the front piece is cut out, fold the skirt pattern along the line of the decorative element, and cut the fabric, leaving 1-1.2 cm for the seam - photo 4. Then cut out 2 triangle pieces, with the same allowance along the stitch line, and with an allowance for the side seam.

We cut out the back half with a slot.

In order to cut out the back half of a skirt with a vent, for sizes 42-48, it is enough to combine the edge of the fabric and the central fold, and place the pattern 6-8 centimeters from the fold - photo 5. If you are cutting out a skirt of sizes 50-52, then the back halves skirts, if there is a trace left from the fold of the fabric, it is better to cut them out separately, placing the pattern so that the unironed fold is on the inside of the vent.

Cut out the halves of the skirt, leaving seam allowances: 1.5-2 cm on the side seams, 1.5 cm on the back seam. Then lay out the resulting halves with the wrong side facing you. On the left half of the back of the skirt, the fabric is ironed on the wrong side, to a width of 4-5 cm, and on the right half there is the slot itself - 4-5 cm of fabric that “extends” beyond the fold of the right half.

You can make a single vent by over-stitching and stitching the inner edge. But such a slot very quickly loses its shape and stretches out. Therefore, it is made double, 3-5 cm wide, with a fold of the same width. Therefore, the fabric allowance that you cut out for the vent is not cut evenly: on the left half of the skirt - 4-5 cm, and on the right - 8-10 cm - photo 6.

After cutting out the main pieces, cut out 4 yokes for the back half.

We attach the decorative side element and stitch the darts.

Align the triangles and the front half of the skirt as in photo 8. Stitch and overcast the edge. Sew the darts. Iron through strips of album sheets to prevent seams from being imprinted on the front side. Topstitch the edge with a decorative stitch - photos 7, 9 and 10.

We make belt loops.

Since this skirt model not only has a yoke, but also has belt loops, they can be made before trying on. As a rule, I sew the darts, sew a zipper into the back seam, and attach the yokes before trying them on. This makes it easier to carry out, and the volume of the skirt at the waist and hips, its final length, is determined more accurately.

In order to make belt loops 1 cm wide, cut out 4 pieces 4 cm wide and 5-9 cm long, depending on the width of the belt or yoke - photo 11. Align the edges - photo 12. Fold in half, iron and stitch the edge - photo 13 and 14.

Sew the yokes to the front and back halves of the skirt.

Since we have a model with belt loops, we first attach the belt loops. To make them look beautiful, stitch them together, matching the edge and the dart seam - photo 1 on the top collage.

To make the yokes or belt look neater and keep their shape, I glue them with thermal fabric - photo 15.

Attach the yoke to the main part of the front, pin evenly and baste - photo 16. Unscrew and check if there are any extra folds or, conversely, if the fabric is stretched. If everything is neat, stitch, overcast the edge and iron. If desired, you can topstitch with decorative stitching - photo 18.

If the skirt model does not have decorative stitching, then simply stitch the edges of the yoke to make it easier to try on - photo 17. Before sewing the yoke to the back half, sew and iron the darts.

Getting the skirt ready for fitting.

After sewing the yokes to the back halves of the skirt, baste both halves, connecting them so that the bottom edges of the yokes match. Sew and press the back seam, turning the edges of the fabric not only along the seam allowances, but also along the edge of the vent allowance. After that - photo 19.

In order to do the fitting, if you did not sew a seam or a zipper, but simply basted, fold the vent in half and baste - photo 20. Baste the side seams, and, if you are sewing a skirt with a belt, baste the belt.

A classic pencil skirt is an essential part of a woman's wardrobe. Being universal, it is the basis of any image, giving it femininity and elegance. The history of its creation surprises with the variety of versions - the authors of the model are called both Coco Chanel and English women. But the popularity of the pencil skirt definitely owes to Christian Dior, who promoted it to fashion catwalks in the 40s. How to construct a pencil skirt pattern, what models can be created based on it, you will learn from this article.

We will need to take three sizes first:

  • waist circumference (WT) - measure at the narrowest point, tightly wrapping the tape around the waist;
  • hip volume (HV) – measured at the most convex places of the buttocks; for ladies with a “breeches” effect, we measure according to this volume, and to create a pattern we use a larger number;
  • hip height (HH) - measure along the sides from the waist line to the hip line, after tying a thin ribbon along them for ease of measurement;
  • product length (DI) – measure from the waist to the planned length.

Measurement locations - see the figure below.

To draw a detailed skirt pattern with a pencil, let’s assume that these measurements are equal to:

  • OT=70 cm;
  • OB=98 cm;
  • CI=74 cm;
  • VB = 20-22cm (this is an average measurement, it is usually used to create the main pattern; if your parameters differ greatly from it, use your own numbers).

To create the base pattern, we will prepare paper (preferably graph paper, it is more convenient to mark down dimensions on it), a pattern, a ruler and pencils.

We start from the top left point, and from there we will move down and to the right.

Stepping back 5 cm from the top and left edge of the paper, we place a point (∙) A. Vertically down, we plot the length of the product – AD. On the right side we put aside half the volume of the hips plus 1 cm for a loose fit = 98/2 + 1 cm = 50 cm – (∙) B. Draw lines DC and BC.

Side skirt line

Divide the drawn rectangle in half by drawing a perpendicular line to the segments DC and AB.

Hip line

From (∙)A we put down 20-22 cm - AL (= hip height). From (∙)L we draw a horizontal line, obtaining (∙)L1 and (∙)L2.

Calculation of dart sizes

Calculation formula (OB - FROM): 2 = (98 - 70): 2 =14 cm. Of these, we will remove 1⁄2 in the side darts (14:2): 2 = 3.5 cm for each. We set aside 3.5 cm from the side line and connect these (∙) with (∙) L2.

Extend the dart lines 1 cm upward.

If the difference between OB and OT is more than 14 cm, two darts are made at the back. The first is 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, its depth is 3-4 cm, length is 13-15 cm. The rest of the segment is divided in half, the depth of the second dart is 2-3 cm, length is 12-13 cm.

We connect (∙)1 and (∙)A, (∙)1 and (∙)B with a pattern curve. We divide the segment L L2 equally and draw a perpendicular to the segment AB. From (∙)B1, measure to the right along the red pattern line 5-6 cm (the same parameter for all sizes), draw a perpendicular to the hip line.

We distribute the remaining excess volume at the waist - 7 cm - into the darts of the back and front parts of the skirt. The larger part - 4 cm - will go to the back, the smaller part - 3 cm - to the front. The length of the dart on the back part is 12-13 cm, for the front part – 9-10 cm (the same number for all sizes).

We move the dart to the left 5 mm for beauty.

Please note that the deeper the dart is required, the longer it should be.

Divide the side lines in the areas from the waist to the hips in half and set aside 5 mm from these (∙).

Using a template or by hand, draw a side line.

We transfer the drawn patterns onto tracing paper or other paper. We indicate the direction of the shared thread.

The basic cut assumes a seamless front of the skirt. The back part is cut with a seam into which a zipper is inserted. A belt is attached to the waist line.

Making a pencil skirt pattern: video master class

Designing various skirt models based on a basic pattern

Tapered skirt with two flounces

For such a model, you first need to make the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on Anastasia Korfiati’s website you can download a skirt pattern for free.

On the constructed skirt pattern, we perform modeling, as in the figure below. We narrow both the front and the back downwards by one and a half cm. We begin the narrowing by retreating 10 cm from the hip line.

The estimated length of the skirt from the waist line is 70 cm.


We draw a flounce on the front part. Then we re-shoot it in an expanded form separately, adjusting the lower edge, smoothing out the stepped transitions at the junction points.

Cutting out a pencil skirt with flounce

This pencil skirt model can be made perfectly from knitwear or any dress fabric with elastane added.

To complete this you will need 1.7 m of fabric with a width of 145 cm. For the main cutting details, see below. In addition, we cut out a belt 7 cm wide (finished - 3.5 cm), length - along the length of the waist plus 3 cm extra for the fastener. To strengthen the belt, it is better to use thermal fabric.

When laying it out on fabric, keep in mind that the seam allowances should be 1.5 cm, and the bottom of the skirt should be 3 cm.

Sewing a skirt

We cut out all the details. We fold the flounce parts in pairs with the right side inward, sew along the rounded edge, turn it inside out, sweep this edge and iron it.

We bend the shuttlecocks along lines 1 and 2, avoiding asymmetry.

Baste and stitch the front and back darts. Iron it. We sew the flounces onto the front part of the skirt at the marked places on the waist and sides.

We sew the side seams, iron the allowances and finish the edges. If you use this pattern to sew a knitted pencil skirt, then it is better to finish the edges of the parts with an oblique silk facing. We sew a hidden zipper into the back seam.

Sew the belt around the waist.

We turn up the bottom of the skirt, stitching it with a double needle. You can do it differently - go along the edge with an overlocker, fold the edge and manually sew it with a blind seam.

Skirt with buttons: MK video

Pencil skirt with peplum

This model is suitable for slender girls. For ladies who are size 48 and above, it is better to choose skirts without hip-enhancing details.

First you need to build a pattern according to your measurements (see step-by-step instructions above) or download it from Anastasia Korfiati’s website.

Deciding on the basque style. It can be different - the same length, the back extended in the center. Then we build a basque pattern.

For example, the finished pattern shown is drawn for a peplum length of 20 cm without differences in the profile.

To calculate, we use the formula: R = FROM: 6 – 1 cm. Draw a semicircle, and setting aside 20 cm from it, draw a second line.

To lengthen the back, we increase one side of the pattern to 25-30 cm. We draw a smooth line connecting the lower ones (∙).

Models of straight skirts with various frills look very impressive. You just need to take into account that the blouse in this case should be laconic, without ruffles.

Pencil skirt with front slit and vertical flounce

For such a model, you first need to create the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on Anastasia Korfiati’s website you can download a skirt pattern for your size.

We copy onto tracing paper the front of the skirt in a full spread - see drawing.

For a pencil skirt with a slit, draw a vertical line and cut the pattern.

The back part for the skirt of this model does not change; we cut it out of 2 parts according to the basic drawing.

To the narrower part of the front we add an allowance for the vent. Its width is 8 cm, length is 14 cm.

On the larger part of the front we draw a shuttlecock.

We transfer all the elements of the shuttlecock onto tracing paper and glue them into a common part along the long sides.

Using a smooth rounding you need to create a beautiful outer side of the shuttlecock. How to do this correctly is marked in the drawing with a blue line.

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Main fabric:

  • front part – 1 pc.;
  • front side part – 1 pc.;
  • back part – 2 pcs.

Black cotton fabric:

  • part for processing the shuttlecock – 1 pc. (in blue in the drawing);
  • belt – 1 pc. (length is FROM + 4 cm for the clasp, width – 7 cm).

Don’t forget to take into account seam allowances of 1.5 cm and hem allowances of 4 cm. We reinforce the waistband with thermal fabric, cut without allowances.

How is this model sewn?

We fold the large front piece and the piece of black fabric for finishing the flounce with the right sides inward.

We baste their outer edge and the outer edge of the slot. We sew together the details, cut off the allowances, and turn out the flounce. We sweep the flounce along the edge and iron it.

We process the side of the front part with an overlocker, tuck an allowance of 4 cm onto the vent, and baste it.

Place the central part of the skirt on the side, aligning along the line and basting.

We adjust along the alignment line to the slot.

Sew a zipper into the back seam. Baste and sew the side seams.

We turn the seam allowance at the bottom to the wrong side and sew it by hand with a blind seam.

We lay the slot and sew it with a hidden seam.

We sew the lower part of the flounce along the longitudinal side to the skirt with a hidden seam.

We sew in the belt and sew on the hook for the fastener.

Straight skirt with vent

The vented skirt is modeled on the classic straight model. It features interesting details - a yoke with vertical raised seams, a vent along the back seam, fastened with buttons. You can easily pair this skirt with a light summer blouse.

We build a basic pattern according to our sizes or search for and download a ready-made one on the Internet. On A. Carfiati’s website there are options in different sizes, you can find online lessons for constructing drawings of skirts.

How to make a pencil skirt pattern with a slot

Now let's start modeling. We put 15 cm down from the level of the hips. We draw the level of the yoke and cut it off. From the bottom (∙) dart we lower the perpendicular (red dotted line in the drawing). We cut the back yoke along the dart lines and the red dotted line. We draw a slot 8 cm wide.

For the front part, we repeat the level of the yoke and the perpendicular from the bottom (∙) dart.

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For the back half we cut out 2 pieces. every detail.

For the front we cut out 2 pieces. side parts of the yoke and 1 pc. other parts with a bend.

In addition, we cut out the belt. Its length is FROM + 8 cm for fastening and loose fit.

How to sew

We baste relief seams on both yokes, stitch them with an indentation of 7 mm. Baste and stitch the seams on the sides of the yokes. We sew a hidden zipper into the central seam on the back yoke.

From the right side of the lower panel of the back of the skirt we cut a strip 4 cm long, leaving 4 cm for hemming the vent on the right and 8 cm on the left. We strengthen the allowance for the slot on both parts with thermal fabric. Fold and iron the right seam allowance, 4 cm wide. We sew loops along the markings.

Fold the left seam allowance 4 cm and iron.

Place the right side over the left, basting at the top.

We sweep the lower panels of the skirt on the sides and stitch them.

We baste the yoke with the lower part. We sew, retreating 7 mm from the edge. Sew on the belt.

Wrap skirt: video master class

Draped skirt

The draped element on the sides and the buckle on the stitched waistband add special originality to this model. You can sew such a skirt using materials of different composition and color. The main thing is that they are soft, drape beautifully and keep their shape.

We start by building a basic model according to our dimensions or find a ready-made pattern, for example, on the website of A. Korfiati.

Next, we will consider the modeling process step by step. We put 3 cm down from the waist line on the front part and draw a set-in belt 7 cm wide (blue color on the pattern). The belt lines should be smooth. The belt is sewn between (∙) a-a. We remove the belt as a separate element.

Cut the front into two vertical parts along the auxiliary line (red). We cut the left part horizontally along the blue lines and spread the drapery between (∙) b-b, adding from 10 to 15 cm for folds.

The back of the skirt is modeled similarly, but without a yoke.

The drawing below shows the modeling of the front part and the middle part with the front yoke.

To process the top cut, we remove and draw facings on the front and back panels of the skirt, 4 cm wide.

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Details for the pattern, their quantity - see below. Don't forget about 1.5 cm for the side allowances and 4 cm for the bottom allowance. The parts highlighted in dark color are cut out, in addition to the main fabric, also from the interlining.

Description of sewing a skirt model with drapery

We sew the side parts with auxiliary lines with a long stitch (4 mm) in areas b-b. Gather them to the desired size, distributing them evenly.

Sew on the parts of the front yokes. We sew the allowances with one joint seam and iron them onto the yokes.

We sew the stitched waistband along the upper and lower long sides, turn it inside out, and sweep it out. We put on the buckle. We put the belt between (∙) a-a on the central part of the front and baste. Sew the draped parts to the central parts of the front and back of the skirt.

Baste and stitch the side seams. We overcast the allowances and iron them. We sew a zipper into the central seam of the back piece.

We reinforce the facings of the front and back parts with thermal fabric, overcast them along the bottom, and grind them down on the sides. We apply the facings to the skirt, matching them along the top edges, and sew them along the waist.

We bend the facings upward, iron them, stitch along the seam, grinding the allowances to the facings.

After this, fold it back onto the skirt and stitch along the short sides to the back halves along the zipper tape. Fold the facings to the wrong side, sweep and iron.

Fold the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side and sew it with a blind seam.

Pencil skirt with decorative zippers: MK video

Lace pencil skirt

This spectacular openwork skirt is tapered at the bottom and has a slit at the back. The upper transparent skirt is made of black lace, the lining is made of light fabric (satin or any mixed fabric).

The average length of the skirt below the knees is 66 cm, but you can sew such a translucent skirt longer by proportionally increasing the length of the back slit.

We build a basic skirt pattern or use a ready-made one, printed from A. Korfiati’s website.

We narrow the front and back halves by 1.5 cm. We draw new lines for the side seams, moving 10 cm down from the hip line. We mark the length of the cut at 1/3 of the length of the skirt.

For this model we will need:

  • lace 1.2 m wide - about 0.8 m;
  • fabric for lining 145 cm wide - 0.7 m;
  • zipper 20 cm long;
  • threads

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A transparent lace skirt is cut from:

  • rear panel - 2 parts;

The petticoat is cut out from:

  • front panel - 1 child. with fold;
  • rear panel - 2 parts;
  • belt – children A width of 8 cm, length FROM + 4 cm at the entrance of the fastener.

Description

We lay out the lace details on the front side of the petticoat parts, and baste them in pairs around the perimeter. Next, the transparent skirt is sewn as a single-layer skirt.

On both halves we sweep and grind the darts. We sew in a zipper. Baste and sew the seams on the sides. We process the allowances with bias tape.

We reinforce the belt with thermal fabric, cut without seam allowances. We sew a belt around the waist.

The black lace pencil skirt is ready!

Leather pencil skirt

A skirt made of faux leather or leather looks great on any body type. The main thing is to decide what style and length of a leather pencil skirt suits you. For large women of sizes 56 or 58, you should not sew a short skirt. A long pencil skirt with a slit is better suited for them.

It should be noted that this type of material is well suited for business style. A jacket or jacket that matches your style will highlight your look. A long eco-leather skirt will look interesting with a sleeveless fur vest and leather boots.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to sew a leather skirt with an elastic band.

Comment

Keep in mind that not every sewing machine can work with leather. If you have a thin skirt made of eco-leather or faux leather, the sewing process will be simplified. But, if the main material is thick leather, then you will need to sew some seams with an awl.

Measurements used to construct the pattern: DI=45 cm, OT=67 cm;

We will need:

  • leather (eco leather) – 0.5 m;
  • fabric for lining – 0.5 m;
  • wide elastic band (4 cm) for the belt – 0.7 m;
  • hidden zipper;
  • sewing machine, scissors, leather needles, chalk.

Description

We are creating a pattern for a straight skirt.

We mark all the elements on the main material and on the lining. Cut out, leaving allowances of 1.0 - 1.5 cm.


Baste the details of the skirt and lining (separately), leaving the seam on the back unstitched.

We sew all the seams except the middle one on the back.

Iron seam allowances in different directions through cotton fabric or (for rough leather) tap with a hammer.

Baste and then stitch the leather and lining along the bottom of the skirt.

We sew a zipper into the central seam on the back part. We make the central seam of the back.

Sew on a wide elastic waistband.


The eco-leather skirt is ready!

Hello, friends!

The past couple of weeks have been just terrible. At some point, I even managed to have the thought “what if my head breaks into pieces from information intoxication?” Thank heavens, everything worked out well, that is, victory is ours, of course with a small loss of time, in the form of a double redoing of posts. My head is in place, which means I will share with you another tutorial “How to sew a straight skirt with a vent.”

What we need:

  • Fabric 1m (at your discretion, in my case, this is ordinary suiting fabric);
  • Concealed zipper 18-20 cm – 1 piece;
  • *Dublerin 30 cm;
  • Threads to match;
  • Tracing paper;
  • Thin felt-tip pen, pen or pencil, ruler;
  • Measuring tape, scissors, needle, sewing machine;

*Dublerin – available in different colors, the standard set is white, gray and black. It is also recommended to decate it before use. Soak in warm water for 1-2 hours, then dry without squeezing so that the adhesive layer is not damaged. To make gluing more accurate, lightly wet the surface of the fabric first. Glued under high temperature.

Drawing a straight skirt

The method I used to build drawing of a straight skirt with a vent, You can watch the video below (by the way, there is also an example of construction):


I liked the video because of the detailed explanations, and also because the author shared additional information about darts along the way.

So, in your hands straight skirt pattern and belts. In general, as you have already seen, each author constructs patterns using his own method, the construction principle is the same, but each has its own nuances. Constructing a drawing of a straight skirt with a vent is quite simple, as it turns out.

Let's move on to transferring the skirt pattern onto fabric. I hope you have previously rinsed the fabric in cold water, dried it and ironed it. By the way, I didn’t include allowances in the paper pattern.

We make allowances of 1 cm in the indicated places, as in the drawing. Sorry, the right half in the drawing turned out to be a little wider than the left, naturally they should be identical, except for the width of the slot, on one half it will be 7 cm, on the other 4 cm + an increase.

Lay out the patterns on the fabric lengthwise. We place the front part of the skirt on the fold of the fabric, it will turn out to be solid. And in the intervals we lay out the parts of the belt, the front part of the belt will be solid, and for the back part of the skirt you should get 2 parts.

We trace all the details according to the patterns, then we trace them again with allowances of 1 cm. For the parts of the belt we make allowances of 1 cm, for the parts for the front on the side and along the long edges, and for the parts for the back of the skirt on all 4 sides.

I traced 1 pattern, the one with a 7 cm slot, then on one of the halves I simply cut off the excess to the desired size, leaving + 1 cm for processing. Cut out the details of the skirt, except for the parts for the belt. We will cut them out at the end, when the skirt already has the desired fit.

While the parts are folded, we make small notches on the upper edge of the skirt in order to transfer the darts to the other half, you can stick a needle at the end of the dart, and on the other side, mark a point and connect it with straight lines to the notch points.

The darts have been transferred, we begin to process the cuts on all the parts. I processed them with a zig-zag stitch. I don’t know, maybe everything gets in the way of a bad dancer :), but to be honest, processing the edges with a zig-zag pattern without being able to adjust its width is just some kind of horror, accordingly, it greatly affects the appearance of the product from the inside out.

After you have processed all the outer edges of the skirt parts, I think you don’t have to process the bottom of the product if you plan to fold it twice, i.e. first iron it 0.5 cm, then bend it 3 cm, then the cut is not visible, but with an overlocker everything is simpler, you can overlock the cut of the bottom of the skirt and not fold it twice. Let's get down to the darts. We do not sew them in a straight line, but with a slight convexity. I first laid a line with long stitches, and then, making sure that everything lay well and did not puff up, I laid the next line with smaller stitches.

We do this procedure with all 4 darts. Then we take up the iron. Iron the darts towards the middle. Professionals advise that in order to work well with the product and to reduce errors, it is necessary to iron the product, preferably after each operation.

Next, we begin processing the splines. We cut out 2 pieces from dublerin, it is advisable to cut them along the same length as the skirt. One piece will be 7 cm, the other 4, although I reduced them a little later when I adjusted the slot. So that after folding it, the doubler material is not visible. I have it in white because the store didn't have gray.

By the way, I don’t know how this actually happens, can someone tell me if he knows whether the doubler tape is glued to the entire length or not? When I hemmed the bottom, I realized that I shouldn’t have glued it the entire length, because it thickens in the “corners.”

Below I offer an excellent video (not mine) on how to make such a corner. In the photo below, I made the future “corner” by marking it so that I could see where to bend, remove, etc.


Now you can join the two back parts. We make a basting, leaving room for a hidden zipper. Leave 1 cm from the top edge of the skirt, i.e. The “dog” on the zipper should be 1 cm below the top edge of the skirt. Next, you need to iron the allowances under the zipper and then iron them out. Open the zipper and baste it to the edges of the allowances. How to do this correctly, see the video below.

Hope you coped with the lightning! It's not an easy matter, as it turns out. The next step will be another fitting. That is, I did the fitting after I had basted the zipper, and after making sure that everything fits well at the waist, nothing was too tight or puffy anywhere, I finally and irrevocably sewed the zipper to the skirt. Then, on the outside of the back of the skirt, in the place where the vent ends (at the top), not reaching 1-1.5 cm, pin it with a pin so that the lower joints lie flat and try it on to make sure that the vent does not “run away” anywhere. .

I bring to your attention another video on how to properly process the bottom of a skirt.

We decide on the final length of the skirt, make a basting, iron the side seams, turn in the bottom edge of the skirt by 3 cm, and then sew a stitch along the entire perimeter of the bottom edge of the skirt 0.5 mm from the top edge in a folded state.

Now you can start working on the details of the belt, more precisely, they are called hemming. So you look and I’ll learn all the terms. We cut out and process the sections using zig-zag or overlock.

Then, I adjusted the pieces by placing them (right side to front) to the top edge of the skirt along the entire perimeter. We adjust the parts so that when connecting the facing parts together, the side seams are identical to the side seams of the skirt.

Sew the parts together and iron the seam allowances. Next, we cut out the parts from dublerin and glue them onto the entire facing from the wrong side.

Do not pay attention to the stains, these are from water, they were not yet dry at the time of taking the photo.

Now we will sew the hem to the top edge of the skirt. We apply the facing side to the front side of the skirt and carefully pin it along the entire perimeter. Starting from the center of the front of the skirt and gradually moving towards the zipper.

When you reach the zipper, you will have “tails” approximately 1 cm wide, so leave them. At the end we will fold and sew them.

1 cm from the top cut we lay a stitch along the entire edge, and then, perpendicular to the stitch, we make notches, not reaching it 1-2 mm.

The next step, along the outside of the facing, as close as possible to the seam, we lay another line, while bending the 1 cm allowance left inside with notches under the facing. We do this so that in the future the facing will not “pop out” on the belt. Iron the entire skirt.

Voila, the straight skirt with a vent is ready! 🙂

P.S. By the way, the hem of straight classic skirts is not hemmed by machine, except for skirts made of denim, but is hemmed with a hand-blind seam (or you can glue it with non-woven fabric).

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