Fitness and healthy lifestyle 

Cut Russian men's shirt kosovorotki. How to sew a Russian shirt for men: essential elements of a traditional cut of a kosovorotka

At all times and for any nation, clothing had not only a traditional practical function, but also represented the national mentality and culture. Modern well-known couturiers are increasingly using Russian to make their collections. The Russian shirt is the most ancient and universal element. Everyone was allowed to wear it: men, women, peasants, merchants and princes.

History of the Russian shirt

The Old Church Slavonic language contains many words that have much in common with the "shirt". But if we approach this issue etymologically, then the closest ones will be: "cut" - a cut, a piece of fabric and "rush" - to destroy, tear.

This cannot be called a coincidence. The reason is that the shirt is the simplest garment: a fabric cloth folded in the middle and equipped with a hole for the head. Yes, and scissors appeared much later than people turned to weaving. Gradually, the shirts began to be fastened on the sides, and then they were also supplemented with rectangular pieces of fabric - sleeves.

Distinctive features of the men's Russian shirt

A Russian (Slavic) shirt is also a means of social integration. It could be put on by both a noble person and an ordinary layman - the only difference was the material used - linen, hemp, silk, cotton and rich finishes.

The collar, hem and wrists of the Russian national shirt must have been decorated with embroidery-amulet. A Russian men's shirt of the 17th-18th century can be distinguished from a South Slavic one by easily recognizable features: a slit at the neck shifted to the left, which allows you to hide the cross, and knee-length.

Women's shirt

The Russian women's shirt is a fundamental element of the national dress. In the southern part of the country, a poneva skirt was worn over it, and in the central and northern part - a sundress. A linen shirt, coinciding in length with the length of a sundress, was called a "camp". In addition, the shirt could be:

  • everyday;
  • festive;
  • fortune-telling;
  • mowing;
  • for feeding the baby.

But one of the most interesting is the shirt-sleeve. The peculiarity of this attire is very long, sometimes to the hem, sleeves, which were equipped with cutouts for the hands at the level of the wrist, which made it possible to tie hanging sleeves behind the back. In addition, wearing such a shirt could be done in another way: gather the excess length of the sleeve into a fold and grab it. Of course, such a shirt cannot be called everyday, since working in it, to put it mildly, is inconvenient (by the way, the expression “working carelessly” originates from here).

Initially, it was worn for divination or some pagan religious rite. And a little later, she became a festive dress or attire for noble people.

Magnetism embroidery-amulet

Even many years after the Russians adopted Christianity, they did not stop believing in the healing power of the embroidery-amulet applied to the undershirt. The same considerations were taken as the basis when sewing the first shirt for a newborn - if a boy was born, then the father's shirt was used, and if a girl, then the mother's. It was the most powerful amulet. Only by the third birthday of the child were sewn clothes from a new material.

Clothing or business card

In ancient times, a Russian shirt was not just a piece of clothing, but also the calling card of every woman. Previously, there were no boutiques and ateliers, and the duties of the hostess included tailoring clothes for herself and her family. Consequently, the better the suit fit, the more ornamental elements and decorations it had, the more diligent the wife was considered. In addition, the Slavic worldview is based on the ability to harmonize the surrounding space - family, courtyard, house, etc. And this can only be achieved if internal harmony is achieved. That is, if a woman is doing well, then the result of her work will be excellent. Conclusion - if a person put on a torn shirt, from which threads stick out, then the atmosphere in his family and soul is appropriate.

Important! Needlework was considered an exclusively female occupation. This fact is also a confirmation of the fact that, according to the ancestors, only the wife should be responsible for the atmosphere in the family.

Men's shirt

The Russian shirt for men is very different from women's. The difference lies in the more archaic cut and decor. Previously, homespun fabric was popular - a canvas 40 cm wide (the size is determined by the design of the handmade one. It is from here that the type of cut used to this day originates - vertical strips of fabric of different widths are used to make a shirt. The range of widths of modern material allows you not to resort to the use of an additional strip along camp, but it is this cut that is provided for by the spirit of antiquity and the traditions of the ancestors.

Russian, which has been worked out for centuries, is not only simple, but also practical, because it provides complete freedom of movement, which is so necessary for a man both in work and in battle.

For decoration, embroidered ribbons or braid are usually used, the main locations of which are the collar, wrists and the bottom edge of the shirt. Another decoration is the “underlying” - the area from the neck to the solar plexus was decorated with embroidery or insertion from another material.

Authentic samples often contained swastika symbols. These decorative elements can no longer be called a simple decoration of a men's shirt - it is rather a powerful amulet that protects the owner from evil forces and black energy. The same protective power was possessed by a belt, or a sash, which was an invariable and obligatory addition to a man's attire. Therefore, the word "unbelted" means not only the loss of restraint and decency, but also defenselessness before evil spirits.

One-piece and compound women's shirt

A spacious Russian shirt for a woman was sewn from a whole longitudinal panel. In different provinces, such clothes had their own name:

  • in Arkhangelsk they called her a whole woman or a healer;
  • in Vologda - checkpoint;
  • in Kaluga and Oryol - solid or single-walled.

In the 19th century, such shirts were considered a rarity - they could only be found at a wedding and at a funeral.

Composite shirt (Russian) suggests the presence of the upper and lower parts. The first was supposed to be visible from under a sundress or poneva, so linen or hemp was used for its manufacture, and then cotton or silk fabric. A dense homespun canvas was used to make the lower part.

Shirts of the 19th-20th centuries were predominantly composite. Mostly, when sewing, very economical patterns were used, which did not leave behind scraps-waste, since the width of the fabric was taken as the cut module.

The composition of the shirt included rectangular and wedge-shaped parts. The cut of the front and back - the foundations of the shirt - was made in such a way that it was located along these details. If necessary, the hem of the shirt was expanded by means of a side panel or a wedge.

A right angle was used to connect the sleeve to the central part.

Most shirts contained a gusset - a square or wedge-shaped piece located under the sleeve and providing freedom to the hands.

Types of cut

Russian folk shirt can be tailored in various ways.

The tunic cut is considered the most archaic. Many nations resorted to it, and in our tradition it was also reflected in other clothes, for example, in a deaf sundress, a curtain and a bib.

The most common type is a shirt with polyk - shoulder inserts that expand the neck of the shirt, and also connect the front and back. Among them are:

  • a shirt with straight stripes, the sewing of which was carried out parallel to the weft of the main part of the camp;
  • a shirt with straight poliks, which were connected in parallel with the base of the camp.

The former were popular in the provinces located in the northern and central parts of the country, and the latter - in the Ryazan, Moscow provinces, as well as among the population of the upper Oka.

Larisa Volkova

beauty Russian folk costume gives people joy, teaches to feel and understand this beauty. Therefore, even now, in the 21st century, all folk holidays we celebrate in folk costume.

In our kindergarten, we decided to update our folk costumes. First we sewed new sundresses and shirts for girls, and this year, for Easter, I sewed boys shirts.

Kosovortka - slant collar shirt, that is, with a slit on the side, and not in the middle, as in ordinary shirts. The slit on the side of the kosovorotka, according to Academician Likhachev, was created specifically so that the man's pectoral cross would not fall out during work. First images shirts with such a clasp is attributed to the XV century. Kosovorotki were worn loose, not tucked into trousers. They were girded with a silk corded belt or a woven belt made of wool.

First I took measurements from my boys. I didn't do everything shirts the same size (one is just right, the other is not enough, and the third is completely "drown" in it) - I have a group of different ages (5-7 years old). I'll tell you in master class about one shirt.

Now let's look at our measurements:

Width = 44cm,

Sleeve length = 47cm,

hip circumference = 70 cm,

Length shirts = 60 cm.

Consumption went like this:

Fabric satin white: wide 150 cm - 1.20 m

Fabric satin red: wide 150 cm - 0.5 m

Braid with a pattern - 2.40 m,

Velcro - 5 cm red.

Croim:

white part

Back = 42x52 cm (do not forget about 1 cm seams).

Front = 42x30 cm, two side shelves 10x24 cm.

red part:

Insert on the chest (24x24 cm, on the sleeves (28x9cm = 2 pcs) and bottom shirts(44x12 cm = 2pcs).

Stand collar (40x8 cm).

planks: 2pcs 20x7.5 cm.

On the white part of the back and on the red part of the chest insert, cut out the neckline.

Sewing:

Well, now we look at our details, everything seems to be simple, we need to determine where to start.

The fastener of the shirt is processed before the shoulder seams are sewn, that is, this is the very first operation after cutting shirts.

And stitching the collar is the final operation of sewing this product.

So, clasp. We will process it as a set-in bar.





and the remaining white part of the front (down).

We sew a red insert with braid.


We sew the back with the front along the shoulder seams.

We sew on the back and front of the lower red inserts, trim them along the bottom with braid.

We sew red cuff inserts to the white part of the sleeves, trim them along the bottom with braid. (Bottoms of sleeves and hem shirts we process braid: we bend it to the front side and put a braid on top, stitch it).


Sew sleeves on shirt and stitch the side seams.




We sew a stand-up collar. Fastener - Velcro.

That's all. Our blouse is ready.


I will be glad if my MK is useful to anyone.

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How to sew a folk shirt, such as our ancestors wore in the villages? This question is becoming more and more of interest to Internet users. And there is nothing surprising in this. After all, the revival of traditions in folk costume is an important component for preserving the heritage of ancestors, preserving the unique culture of any people.

Samoshveyka's website treats with special trepidation the revival of not only folk traditions, but also cutting and sewing in folk style. Let's remember, at least. And today, the author Natalia shares her personal experience in cutting and sewing a folk shirt in the Russian style. What follows is a first-person narration.

I don’t have any special skills in sewing, I didn’t finish cutting and sewing courses, but sewing a Russian shirt in the folk style for my husband was not difficult for me.

It will take only 4 measurements: the girth at the widest point (in my case it was the girth of the husband's abdomen), the length of the shirt, the length of the sleeve, the width of the neck. Depending on the build of the “model”, a different amount of fabric will be required. My man is large, so I bought 2.5 meters of poplin (just in case with a margin). Usually take 2 lengths. You will also need a braid: wide - about 5 meters and narrow - 2 meters.

Russian shirt pattern

Fold the fabric, measure the length and cut. On the fold, mark the middle and cut out the neck. It may be a little narrow, because there will be another cut (as in the picture). By the same principle, we cut out the sleeves, narrowing them to the cuff.


How to sew a Russian shirt

Sweep the cuts and measure. It is not necessary to make a gusset, but sometimes the shirt pulls ugly under the armpits, in this case, in order to give an aesthetic look, it is better to get confused a little. The gusset is a rhombus, the length of the side depends on the length of the product, I did 10 cm. If everything went well during the fitting, we stitch the seams, leaving cuts of about 5-7 cm on the sides.

In a Russian shirt for my husband, I made a stand-up collar. As it turned out, there is no need to be afraid of this phrase at all, it turned out that it was not at all difficult. We measure the neck length in a circle + 1.5 cm for the seams. On the fabric we draw a rectangle of the obtained length, slightly raising (rounding) the ends, the width of the rectangle is 2 widths of a wide braid + 1.5-2 cm for the seams. It is not necessary to seal the collar, as the braid is quite dense and will hold its shape on its own. We cut the collar, sew it to the neck. I made 2 seams: the main one - I sewed the collar, the second - I folded the resulting edge and sewed it to the main canvas. Se, it remains only to decorate the shirt.


We sew a wide braid on the collar and on the sides of the neckline, we also make cuffs with it, a narrow braid goes to decorate the hem, the lower edge of the shirt. I also made a belt from a wide braid, just sewed a fabric to the reverse side and decorated it with a fringe. I then wore my shirt in the atelier, so that I could be laced (you need a special device), but you can just sew on a button to match the braid.

I hope my experience helps you. My husband liked my work very much.

To date, there are a lot of children's events that are celebrated in the Slavic style. Maslenitsa, New Year, seeing off autumn and many others. Children must be dressed up in national costumes. If your son is invited to such a celebration, he will need to dress in traditional clothing, including a special shirt. It is very easy to sew a kosovorotka for a boy with your own hands.

Kosovorotka is a piece of clothing that was worn both on weekdays and on holidays in Russia. It got its name because of the peculiar location of the collar - on the side of the neck. Such a cut was invented so that the pectoral cross would not fall out during work. The shirt was not tucked into trousers, but was belted in a special way. Similar shirts were sewn from satin, silk or linen. The edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt were embroidered with woven patterns. Thanks to the photo guide below, you can easily create this element of Russian folk clothing.

We sew an interesting blouse for a boy with our own hands

Necessary materials:
  • matter: satin, linen or cotton;
  • decorative braid;
  • a skein of thread to attach the ribbon;
  • Velcro fastener;
  • sewing accessories: chalk, tailor's scissors, ruler and pins.
Work technique:
  1. Build a pattern based on the size of the child. The scheme for a kosovorotka is very simple, it will be clear even to a beginner. This shirt is cut without shoulder seams. As a result, you will get a rectangle with a neck in the center.
  1. Cut out the material, leaving allowances for the seams, as well as the hem of the sleeves and the hem of the shirt. Auxiliary detail - a set-in level, cut out separately.
  1. Attach a gusset, a special insert in the armpits, to the sleeve. Then tie the sleeve to the main piece of fabric. Attach both sleeves with machine stitching.
  1. Sew the side seams of the shirt on a typewriter and process them on an overlock so that the fabric does not crumble.
  2. Fold up the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt, iron them and stitch them.
  1. With the help of a braid, turn the neckline: first sew on the stand-up collar, and then apply the braid and stitch.
  1. Attach Velcro to the inside of the collar.
  2. Sew on the edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the blouse.

If desired, Slavic amulets can be embroidered on clothes with a cross.

It is interesting:
  • festive blouses were most often made of white fabric;
  • the shirt is always belted, since the belt was an obligatory item in the men's wardrobe;
  • before starting work, it is best to soak the fabric in hot water, then dry it and steam it with an iron. In this case, it will shrink.
Belt.

Men girded themselves in different ways: just below the chest, at the waist, below the waist. The belt was wrapped around the body twice. The knot was located in front or on the side and hung down by 40 cm. You can make it yourself from woolen or cotton yarn and decorate it with tassels.

Weaving a belt using the twitching method.

In order to weave such an ornament, you will need floss threads. You can use different shades, then the garment will turn out to be colorful. The length of the finished product will be half the length of the threads.

  1. Fold each thread in half, so that you get 5 loops.
  2. Gather the loose ends of the yarn into a bun and fasten them to a doorknob or nail at chest level at a slight angle.
  3. Put the loops on the fingers: three of them on the index, middle and ring fingers of the left hand, the other two on the index and middle fingers of the right. We begin to work with the ring finger of the right hand.
  4. Pass the working finger through the loops on the left hand, pick up the loop from the index finger from the bottom up and pull it through the loops towards you. Put the loop on the ring finger of the right hand.
  5. Throw the remaining loops on the index and middle fingers, and work with the freed ring finger of the left hand.
  6. Spread your arms to the sides and nail the first row of the belt to its base.
  7. With the working finger of the left hand, pass through the loops to the index finger of the right. Pick up the far loop and drag it towards you so that it is on the ring finger of your right hand.
  8. Drag the remaining loops to the index and middle fingers of the right hand, freeing the ring finger for work. Nail the resulting row again.
  9. Repeat this order until the thread comes to an end. Upon completion, tie the belt with any knot and decorate the edges with tassels.

With the help of this simple guide, you will weave an original garment decoration that will suit not only national costumes, but everyday things.

Video on the topic of the article

Additional ideas can be gleaned from several video tutorials below.

The main element of the wardrobe in this style is the Russian folk shirt, the oldest in appearance and especially symbolic outfit. Its later version - a men's kosovorotka - appeared in the 15th century, became popular in the 19th century, displacing the previous styles.

The shirt was worn by men, women, children. In ancient times, it was the same for everyone, only for men - up to the knee, for women - to the floor, for children - below the knees. She was girdled and tugged, providing freedom of movement.

Cut of ancient shirt

The design of the proto-shirt is the simplest. The cloth panel is folded along the weft, a neck is cut at the fold, which is further made out without a collar (hollow neck) or with a small stand (later type), with a strap in the middle of the chest. On the sides body, or stands, make inserts - barrels.

They are essential for a loose fit. The fabrics woven on crosses were from 40 to 80 cm, which did not allow obtaining the desired width of the product. The lack was compensated by inserts.

The sleeves were cut straight. Under the arm, they were connected to the frame and barrels with a square-shaped gusset. The gusset provided comfort in movement: if you raise your hand, the whole shirt will not be pulled behind it.

The process of cutting, tailoring was regulated by the rules. The main thing concerned the gate. When cutting the neck, the linen piece was taken out exclusively through the inner space of the product. Strange, at first glance, the movement of the dressmaker was dictated by security considerations.

Movement inward, towards a person meant the preservation, multiplication of strength, health, outward - waste. The belief has survived to this day in two well-known versions: you can’t put on clothes with the wrong side up, you can’t pour water, other useful liquids “away from yourself” - only towards yourself.

A simple cut was formed by unlimited possibilities - in sewing, the skills of village dressmakers could be envied by an urban milliner. Rectangular details saved canvas, which was expensive in terms of the labor invested, the only “cut” - the fabric of a semicircular neckline - was not thrown away, but applied to patches.

MEN'S KOSOVORTKA - HISTORICAL CUT

A folk shirt with a slanting collar originated in the Middle Ages. The reason for the appearance cannot be explained by fashion trends: in ancient times, expediency determined everything. D.S. Likhachev suggested that the slanting collar did not allow the pectoral cross - a very personal item, not intended for show, to fall out into the armhole during work. The idea of ​​the academician was picked up by other researchers of folk culture as the only objective one for peasant life.

Today, a shirt with a slanting collar is a fashionable element of the wardrobe. Surprisingly, women and girls want to buy a kosovorotka even more often than men: they are attracted by the beauty of the pattern, the actual cut, the comfort of the dress. This cannot be considered a departure from tradition: the Russian folk shirt has returned to its ancient universal purpose, which was originally characteristic of it.

If you know the basics of sewing, then you can sew a blouse yourself. Next, I will tell you how, using the example of the old (until the 19th century) style, reconstructed according to the clothes of the Altai Old Believers.

Shirt elements, cutting

All elements are rectangular, therefore, to cut them, it is enough to calculate the length and width.

  • Stanovina(body): a single piece is cut from the canvas ( wall) in 2 product lengths.
  • barrels. The length of the barrel is calculated by the formula: subtract the length of the armhole from the length of the product. The width of the barrel is: with a frame width of 40 cm - 60 cm, 60 cm - 45 cm, 80 cm - 30 cm. Dimensions are approximate, for a traditional product they are calculated so that the total width of the shirt is 1 m ± 10 - 15 cm. If you do not need such a loose fit, just choose your own comfortable option.
  • Sleeves traditionally made 60 cm wide for an armhole 30 cm deep. The length was calculated as follows: the shoulder width was subtracted from the length of the arm, which for a man with a size of 48 - 50 was 70 cm.
  • Gusset cut in a square of 15 by 15 cm, if necessary - more, up to 20 by 20 cm.

Folk shirt: assembly

First, the frame is sewn with barrels. Fold the frame in half, find the middle, cut out the neck, setting aside 2 cm back and forth.

Next, the sleeves are sewn together, leaving a free edge for attaching the gusset. A frame is sewn on them, and after the sleeves they are sewn onto barrels, a gusset insert is sewn in. If desired, attach to the sleeve seam spacer- decorative fabric of red color, often with embroidery. In the past, when a men's kosovorotka wore out, the spacer was torn off to be used in a new product.

Next, we process the neck with an oblique trim, trim it with a calf, sew on buttons or hooks. At the ends of the sleeves, we lay small folds of 0.5 cm, pointing forward, sheathe the edge with braid or bright fabric.

We cut the hem of the shirt, trim it with a “clearing” - an embroidered spacer - or just a braid, a bright fabric.

Despite the simplicity of the cut, not all even experienced seamstresses have a Russian folk shirt that comes out as it should the first time. Do not despair - with experience everything will work out. The assortment of the Ivanka store will help you get inspired, where they are presented in a variety of ways: from the most ancient styles with a straight slit on the chest to complex late versions.