Many women have a desire to sew for various reasons. Some want to sew things for themselves and their loved ones in order to save money, others want to have clothes that fit them perfectly, and still others simply want to sew something for the home, thereby creating coziness and comfort.

But not everyone knows how to sew, cut, or design, and cutting and sewing courses are not cheap, so many people set out to learn how to sew from scratch on their own.

I want to learn how to sew, where to start?

The goal of learning to sew has been set, but where to start? We suggest first defining the main stages of this process:

• Firstly, you need to think through to the smallest detail the idea and design of the future product, including the type of fabric, color, shape, additional elements and decor. Ideally, sketch out a sketch that you understand.
• Secondly, you must understand that you practically cannot do without patterns, so you need to be prepared for the fact that you will need to make measurements, calculations and drawings.
• Third, It is imperative to master the simplest functions of a sewing machine and learn how to make the basic elements of sewing. You can learn this thanks to master classes on the Internet, where all types of fabric finishing, neck and hem processing, how to sew in a zipper and make buttonholes, and much more are described in detail. Having worked through each such element on a piece of fabric, you will gain skills that will help you in the future.

And, of course, you need to prepare everything you need for this process:

• paper and pencils for creating a sketch;
• centimeter tape for taking measurements;
• square, ruler, patterns, paper with markings and a simple pencil for drawing a pattern;
• scissors, needles, pins and threads;
• additional elements for decoration: buttons, zippers, ribbons, braid, lace.

When the idea for the future product is ready, you need to make a pattern. Of course, you can use ready-made (close to your idea) patterns from the Internet or sewing magazines, but we recommend trying another method.

To get a feel for and practice for those who have never dealt with sewing clothes at all, we recommend that you do not throw away your favorite things that fit you perfectly but have already been worn out, but rather rip them apart at the seams and use them as patterns. By ripping apart the finished product, you will also be able to consider all the finishing methods and repeat them in your new product.

But before sewing the cut parts of the product on a typewriter, We recommend making a light estimate of the product and trying it on., to fit the figure, if we are talking about clothing, or to eliminate shortcomings.

How to learn to sew on a sewing machine from scratch

In order to confidently use a sewing machine, you first need to study the instructions to understand how it works, what functions it has and how it all works. Numerous videos on the Internet can help you: which offer complete reviews of sewing machines of any modification.

The main stages of working with a sewing machine:

• thread;
• adjust thread tension;
• adjust the presser foot clamp;
• set the stitch type;
• perform various types of seams;
• be able to secure the thread at the end of the work.

All these points need to be worked out once and practice making different types of stitches, so that later you don’t stop at this while sewing.

How to learn to sew various interesting things

We offer you a selection of ideas that will tell you how to sew various things for yourself and for the home yourself.

How to learn to sew curtains and lambrequins yourself

You can beautifully decorate the windows in your apartment thanks to ready-made sketches and drawings that abound on the Internet:

1. Take measurements from the window and cut the purchased tulle (or other fabric) as shown in the diagram.
2. Finish the edges of the curtains with an overlocker or thin silk ribbon.
3. Drape each piece and secure with one stitch along the edge.
4. Sew a ribbon to this edge, but on the wrong side, for attaching to the cornice.
5. Decorate the upper edge of all blanks with a thin ribbon to hide the junction of the ribbon and the tulle.

How to learn to sew dolls with your own hands

If you are planning to sew a doll yourself, but are still having difficulties with the sketch, we recommend finding ready-made patterns for dolls:

1. Transfer all the elements of the pattern first onto paper, taking into account the scaling, and then onto the prepared pieces of fabric.
2. First, mark each part, and then stitch all the seams on a machine.
3. Then turn out all the parts and place the filler prepared in advance inside.
4. All parts of the doll are sewn by hand using a hidden seam.

How to learn to sew underwear

When sewing underwear, you can use ready-made patterns, but you will need to take measurements very carefully, or you can retake the uniform from an old model that is no longer suitable for wear, but fits you well.

How to learn to sew dresses

When the sketch of the future dress is already ready, then you need to:

• take all measurements;
• create a drawing or use a ready-made pattern, editing it to fit your dimensions;
• transfer all the details of the dress from the patterns to the fabric, taking into account the direction of the longitudinal and transverse threads;
• cut out all the details of the dress with a margin of 1 cm for the seams;
• make an estimate of the entire product;
• try on the dress and mark with pins all the places that require correction;
• make a machine seam along all basting lines;
• process the edge of the hem, armholes and neckline;
• sew on buttons or a zipper.

Video with master class lessons

In this collection of videos you will find simple recommendations on how to learn how to sew various things for yourself and for your home, without spending a lot of time, effort and money.

• Video with a lesson on how to learn how to sew clothes from scratch at home.

https://youtu.be/rIXsemD3Ggw

• A video about whether it is possible to learn to sew on your own and where to start.

• A video about how to quickly learn to sew without spending years on training.

• Video course on how to learn how to sew curtains and lambrequins yourself.

• Video tutorial for beginners on how to learn to sew on a sewing machine.

• In this video you will learn how to sew a dress without a pattern.

• Video about how to process the edges of a product without an overlocker.

• In this video you will learn how to sew a sun skirt at home.

• Video tutorial for beginners on how to sew a doll with your own hands.

• This video is dedicated to how to sew a snood yourself.

• If you want to know how to sew a hat, watch this video.

• In this video you will learn how to sew bumpers into a crib and a blanket in the bonbon style.

• A short master class on how to sew a pillowcase with a flap.

We hope that our tips and recommendations will help you master the art of sewing in a short period of time, and you will be able to please yourself and your loved ones with beautiful handmade products. Tell us about your first steps in sewing and how quickly you mastered the process.

So, the main task of our article is to answer the questions: “How to learn to sew on a machine?”, “How to learn to sew from scratch and on your own”, “...at home” and, of course, “... with video and for free”! Learning to sew on a sewing machine means getting to know its structure, learning how to thread the threads and operate it correctly. To begin with, I remind you of the golden rule: compliance with safety precautions and organization of the workplace! We talked about sanitary and hygienic requirements in the article “Lessons for a first-grader.” You need to pay great attention to safety precautions, especially if you work on an electric machine. To the already known safety requirements I must add: the ends of clothing and hair should not hang down to avoid the danger of them getting into the rotating parts of the machine; Before sewing a seam, check to see if there are any pins or needles left in the product. This topic is covered in more detail in the e-book “Sewing Machine for Home Use.” The proposed video clips tell in detail about different classes of machines, show how to refuel them, and how to sew correctly. You can choose your car class, but I recommend viewing all three. Not only can this add some additional information to your professional bag, but you will see that all the machines are practically the same. Your fear of a “strange” machine will disappear; you will easily work on any machine that is at hand in different situations. You will easily communicate in “the same language” with colleagues in your hobby and profession, as your horizons on the operation of machines and their application will expand. Based on the nature of the weaving of the threads, machines are divided into lockstitch and chain stitch machines. The former belong to universal machines, the latter – to overcasting and knitting machines. Sewing machine drive According to the type of drives, as we already know, there are machines: manual, foot and electric. A drive of any type consists of three main links: driving, driven and transmission. Both the driven and driven links in foot-driven machines have a pulley onto which a belt fits. The belt is a transmission link. Basic information about sewing machine drives. 1. Manual sewing machine Manual drive does not cause any difficulties in operation. Before starting work, you only need to bring the handle to the working position, and when finished, lower it down to close the machine with the case. The only rule that must be strictly followed: do not rotate the handle back towards you. 2. Electric drive for a sewing machine This drive is easy to use, but requires some skills. You need to adapt to the speed of your car. The pedal can be light, or it can be heavy and require a lot of effort to press. I strongly advise that in order to control the car, feel the pressure of your foot, and do not put your foot completely on the pedal. Children are very afraid of the electric drive, so I advise beginners: always keep your hand on the flywheel the first time in order to stop the car in time. 3. Foot-powered sewing machine The most difficult of all foot-powered sewing machines to operate. The difficulty is that you need to alternately press with your left and then with your right foot, and the wheel must pass the return point, otherwise it will return back and the thread will break. The advantage of a foot-operated machine is that both hands are free. To prevent the legs from getting tired and the speed to be higher, the drive wheel is made of a larger diameter than the driven wheel of the sewing machine. I will say that I sewed faster with my feet than with an electric motor. A machine with a foot drive requires compliance with certain safety precautions: When working, you need to pay attention to the position of your legs and arms: your hands straighten the fabric near the needle, and your legs press the pedal at the same time. Do not wear the belt while the machine is running, i.e. When putting on the belt, remove your feet from the pedal. Do not hold the belt with your hand, otherwise you may injure your hand from the paper clip. When threading the machine needle, do not keep your feet on the pedal. Remove the belt from the starter wheel rim using a pulley. I will not describe the mechanical intricacies of the foot drive; I will only provide information for the user. For the exercise, beginners must first learn how to operate the machine at idle speed. To do this, you need to unscrew the friction screw, as when winding a bobbin, and learn how to operate the pedal so that the flywheel does not spin in the opposite direction. Before starting work, put your feet on the pedal: one forward, the other slightly back (right-handed people put their right foot forward), put your hand on the flywheel and turn it towards you. At the same time, feel where the pedal went and “press” it with the “right” foot, i.e. the direction in which the pedal went. Then smoothly transfer the weight to the other leg. The main thing: you need to press the pedal all the way, both forward and backward. Then practice on the working stroke (tighten the friction screw), but without threads and on a flap - it will be clear: the machine sews only in one direction or returns. And when it becomes possible, switch to the product. Sewing machine structure 1. Sleeve. The part is hollow; the main shaft of the machine is located inside it. 2. Stand. 3. Flywheel. 4. Friction screw disconnector. 5. Platform. 6. Needle bar with needle. 7. Paw. 8. Rack The stitching is carried out by five mechanisms of the sewing machine - these are the working or executive bodies of the machine. They operate synchronously and interconnected from the main shaft. The main shaft is driven by a drive through a flywheel. Threading the upper thread In the diagram we see that threading in different machines is identical. It goes through the same stages: spool pin, series of thread guides, upper thread tension regulator, compensation spring, needle. The diagram and video tutorial clearly show the order of threading. The main condition: it must go through all the stages sequentially, not intersect anywhere, it must “fall through” the washers, otherwise the machine will not sew. The last thread guide shows which side the long groove on the needle should be on. This is the manufacturer's hint on how to insert the needle. The thread must also be inserted from the side of the long groove, otherwise the machine will not sew. Threading the bobbin thread A steel bobbin case is used to thread the bobbin thread into the hook and to regulate its tension. 1. Insert a bobbin with thread wound into the bobbin case. As shown in Fig.a. 2. Thread the thread under the thread tension spring of the bobbin case, leaving an end 8-10 cm long, Fig.b. 3. Insert the bobbin case into the hook, holding the case by the latch. The pin of the bobbin case should fit into the slot of the hook device, Fig. c, d, until it clicks. 4. Close the slide plate and bring the lower thread up through the hole in the needle plate using the upper thread, fig. d, for which it is necessary to make one full rotation of the flywheel. 5. Place the ends of both threads back under the foot, fig. e. The machine is ready for operation. How to learn to sew on a sewing machine Preparing the machine for work: prepare the drive, put the machine into working motion, raise the needle, remove a piece of fabric from under the presser foot, thread the threads. Getting started: place the fabric prepared for work under the foot. Pierce it with a needle at the beginning of the stitch, manually turning the handwheel towards you, holding the ends of the threads, lower the foot and start working. Getting the job done: When sewing, guide the fabric so that the intended stitch line is between the horns of the foot. When sewing, do not pull or push the fabric. At the beginning of the stitching, place a bartack 0.5-0.8 cm long. Finishing the work: at the end of the stitch, put the bartack again, raise the needle, manually turning the handwheel towards you, raise the presser foot, move the fabric away from you with your left hand and trim the threads near the stitch, leaving no “tendrils”. These are general recommendations for all types of machines. Below we will give quality characteristics by class of machine and video tutorials. When the machine is not in operation, the presser foot should be lowered onto a piece of fabric underneath. Do not sew without fabric, so as not to damage the smooth surface of the foot and not to abrade the sharp teeth of the rack on the metal of the foot. Do not pull the fabric when operating the machine, so as not to break or bend the needle, you can only guide the fabric. How to sew on a Podolsk machine This machine of the 2nd class PMZ was an indispensable assistant for many decades for my mother, and then for me. Simple and reliable. The machine is straight-line, the highest number of revolutions per minute is 1200, the maximum stitch pitch is 4 mm, a vertical shuttle device, it can do bartacking - the material is fed in the forward and reverse directions, while the flywheel should rotate only in one direction. The reverse motion in the machine is carried out for fastening by raising the stitch length lever above the zero mark to the middle or to the uppermost position. Sew on a “Chaika” machine The machine performs a zigzag stitch, a complex zigzag - with a needle bar retraction, the highest number of revolutions per minute is 1200, the maximum stitch pitch is 4 mm, the zigzag width is 5 mm, a vertical shuttle device, it can do bartacking - the material is supplied in forward and reverse direction. The “Chaika” machine differs from the 2-M class by an additional regulator of the width of the zigzag stitch, a lever for shifting the needle bar (complex zigzag machine), which are combined on one device, a lever for lowering the rack and removing the top cover instead of the front board. The remaining parts involved in the formation of the stitch are identical to those of the 2-M class machine and all similar machines of the previous generation with a zigzag stitch. Threading is indicated in the diagram and in the video tutorial. Winding the lower thread and the sewing process is similar to the 2-M machine class. When performing a straight stitch, the zigzag width regulator should be set to 0, the stitch length is adjusted based on the thickness of the fabric - the thicker it is, the longer the stitch length, and is also determined by the task - the finishing stitch can have a large pitch. The reverse motion in the machine is carried out for fastening by raising the stitch length lever above the zero mark to the middle or to the uppermost position. It is possible that machines of later releases have a reverse lever - reverse. Watch the video, as the text version of the information is frightening in its vastness. In fact, everything is much simpler. To perform decorative stitches, you need to remove the top cover and replace the plastic cam-copier with another one with a given pattern. I can’t show you, but I want to tell you about the Tula machine. She, too, like “The Seagull,” enjoys a bad reputation among the population. But I didn’t find anything wrong with it, but only concluded that people simply do not use it correctly. Back in the eighth grade, I discovered a Tula typewriter at my aunt’s in the village. She didn’t sew on it either - something didn’t work out for her. I didn’t know about it, I saw it for the first time, and I didn’t know how to use it either. I intuitively tucked it in and sewed myself a dress - everything was in order! Advice: don't be afraid! Look carefully at the details - they contain a hint: there is a slot, a hole, which means it is needed for something. The Tula cap differs only in shape - it is flat. There is a hole for the thread - you need to pass it through it. Then simply place it on the shuttle plate, lift it and close it until it clicks. All! The machine is ready for use. The upper thread is threaded like the Seagull. Sew on a Janome machine If you look at different sewing machines on the Internet or in a store, you will see their similarities with each other. At the same time, they differ in design features from previous generation machines. So, we consider conditionally all modern machines using the JANOME class as an example. Main characteristics: maximum stitch pitch - 4 mm, vertical shuttle device, can do bartacking - material is fed in forward and reverse directions using the reverse button, the width of the zigzag stitch performed is 5 mm, the speed of the machine is indicated in a streamlined manner: “speed depends on pressure pedals”, It is logical to assume that the speed of any machine depends on the pedal pressure, or on the speed of rotation of the hands or feet. However, there are design limitations. The history of the JANOME machine is silent about this. We see the obvious advantages and differences of the new machines in the figure: sleeve platform; absence of slide and needle plates; hidden upper thread tension regulator; reverse button; cams of various stitches are built into the body, they do not need to be changed every time, and the tips are drawn directly on the machine stand; simplified form of threading the upper thread; semi-automatic loop, which significantly improves quality and simplifies its production. Unobvious advantages of the new machines: the possibility of blind, overlock and elastic stitches. I would like to note that beginners should not be deceived by the zipper foot included with the machine: this foot makes it easier to sew in a simple zipper, but not a hidden one. For this operation, the paws are not included in the kit and they are completely different. In any case, modern machines are more advanced, lighter and more comfortable to use. Good luck with your work! More complete material on the equipment can be read in my e-book “Home Use Sewing Machine”. I look forward to your comments and questions. If the article was useful, share it with your friends on social networks. Your Olga Zlobina
Sew from scratch

Sew from scratch!

Step by step instructions. From beginner to master.

How to learn to sew on a machine

So, the main task of our article is to answer the questions: “How to learn to sew on a machine?”, “How to learn to sew from scratch and on your own”, “...at home” and, of course, “... with video and for free”!

Learning to sew on a sewing machine means getting to know its structure, learning how to thread the threads and operate it correctly.

First, let me remind you of the golden rule: adherence to technique.

We talked about sanitary and hygienic requirements in the article “Lessons for a first-grader.”

You need to pay great attention to safety precautions, especially if you work on an electric machine. To the already known safety requirements I must add:

The ends of clothing and hair should not hang down to prevent them from getting caught in the rotating parts of the machine;

Before sewing a seam, check to see if there are any pins or needles left in the project.

This topic is covered in more detail in the e-book “Sewing Machine for Home Use.”

The proposed video clips tell in detail about different classes of machines, show how to refuel them, and how to sew correctly. You can choose your car class, but I recommend viewing all three. Not only can this add some additional information to your professional bag, but you will see that all the machines are practically the same. Your fear of a “strange” machine will disappear; you will easily work on any machine that is at hand in different situations. You will easily communicate in “the same language” with colleagues in your hobby and profession, as your horizons on the operation of machines and their application will expand.

Based on the nature of the weaving of the threads, machines are divided into lockstitch and chain stitch machines. The former belong to universal machines, the latter – to overcasting and knitting machines.

Sewing machine drive

Based on the type of drive, as we already know, there are types of machines: manual, foot and electric.

A drive of any type consists of three main links: driving, driven and transmission. Both the driven and driven links in foot-driven machines have a pulley onto which a belt fits. The belt is a transmission link.

Basic information about sewing machine drives.

1. Manual sewing machine

The manual drive does not cause any difficulties in operation. Before starting work, you only need to bring the handle to the working position, and when finished, lower it down to close the machine with the case.

The only rule that must be strictly followed: do not rotate the handle back towards you.

2. Electric drive for a sewing machine

This drive is easy to operate, but requires some skill. You need to adapt to the speed of your car. The pedal can be light, or it can be heavy and require a lot of effort to press. I strongly advise that in order to control the car, feel the pressure of your foot, and do not put your foot completely on the pedal. Children are very afraid of the electric drive, so I advise beginners: always keep your hand on the flywheel the first time in order to stop the car in time.

3. Foot operated sewing machine

The most difficult machine to operate is the foot operated one. The difficulty is that you need to alternately press with your left and then with your right foot, and the wheel must pass the return point, otherwise it will return back and the thread will break. The advantage of a foot-operated machine is that both hands are free. To prevent the legs from getting tired and the speed to be higher, the drive wheel is made of a larger diameter than the driven wheel of the sewing machine. I will say that I sewed faster with my feet than with an electric motor.

A foot-operated machine requires compliance with certain safety precautions:

When working, you need to pay attention to the position of your legs and arms: your hands straighten the fabric near the needle, and your legs press the pedal at the same time.

Do not wear the belt while the machine is running, i.e. When putting on the belt, remove your feet from the pedal.

Do not hold the belt with your hand, otherwise you may injure your hand from the paper clip.

When threading the machine needle, do not keep your feet on the pedal.

Remove the belt from the starter wheel rim using a pulley.

I will not describe the mechanical intricacies of the foot drive; I will only provide information for the user. For the exercise, beginners must first learn how to operate the machine at idle speed. To do this, you need to unscrew the friction screw, as when winding a bobbin, and learn how to operate the pedal so that the flywheel does not spin in the opposite direction.

Before starting work, put your feet on the pedal: one forward, the other slightly back (right-handed people put their right foot forward), put your hand on the flywheel and turn it towards you. At the same time, feel where the pedal went and “press” it with the “right” foot, i.e. the direction in which the pedal went. Then smoothly transfer the weight to the other leg. The main thing: you need to press the pedal all the way, both forward and backward.

Then practice on the working stroke (tighten the friction screw), but without threads and on a flap - it will be clear: the machine sews only in one direction or returns. And when it becomes possible, switch to the product.

Sewing machine structure

1. Sleeve. The part is hollow; the main shaft of the machine is located inside it.

3. Flywheel.

4. Friction screw disconnector.

6. Needle bar with needle.

8. Rack

The stitching is carried out by five mechanisms of the sewing machine - these are the working or executive bodies of the machine. They operate synchronously and interconnected from the main shaft. The main shaft is driven by a drive through a flywheel.

Upper threading

In the diagram we see that threading in different machines is identical.

It goes through the same stages: spool pin, series of thread guides, upper thread tension regulator, compensation spring, needle.

The diagram and video tutorial clearly show the order of threading.

The main condition: it must go through all the stages sequentially, not intersect anywhere, it must “fall through” the washers, otherwise the machine will not sew.

The last thread guide shows which side the long groove on the needle should be on. This is the manufacturer's hint on how to insert the needle. The thread must also be inserted from the side of the long groove, otherwise the machine will not sew.

Threading the bobbin thread

A steel bobbin case is used to thread the lower thread into the shuttle device and to regulate its tension.

1. Insert a bobbin with thread wound into the bobbin case. As shown in Fig.a.

2. Thread the thread under the thread tension spring of the bobbin case, leaving an end 8-10 cm long, Fig.b.

3. Insert the bobbin case into the hook, holding the case by the latch. The pin of the bobbin case should fit into the slot of the hook device, Fig. c, d, until it clicks.

4. Close the slide plate and bring the lower thread up through the hole in the needle plate using the upper thread, fig. d, for which it is necessary to make one full rotation of the flywheel.

5. Place the ends of both threads back under the foot, fig. e.

The machine is ready for work.

How to learn to sew on a sewing machine

Preparing the machine for work: prepare the drive, put the machine into working motion, raise the needle, remove a piece of fabric from under the presser foot, thread the threads.

Getting started: place the fabric prepared for work under the foot. Pierce it with a needle at the beginning of the stitch, manually turning the handwheel towards you, holding the ends of the threads, lower the foot and start working.

Getting the job done: When sewing, guide the fabric so that the intended stitch line is between the horns of the foot. When sewing, do not pull or push the fabric. At the beginning of the stitching, place a bartack 0.5-0.8 cm long.

Finishing the work: at the end of the stitch, put the bartack again, raise the needle, manually turning the handwheel towards you, raise the presser foot, move the fabric away from you with your left hand and trim the threads near the stitch, leaving no “tendrils”.

When the machine is not in operation, the presser foot should be lowered onto a piece of fabric underneath. Do not sew without fabric, so as not to damage the smooth surface of the foot and not to abrade the sharp teeth of the rack on the metal of the foot. Do not pull the fabric when operating the machine, so as not to break or bend the needle, you can only guide the fabric.

How to sew on a Podolsk machine

This 2nd class PMZ machine was an indispensable assistant for many decades for my mother, and then for me. Simple and reliable.

The machine is straight-line, the highest number of revolutions per minute is 1200, the maximum stitch pitch is 4 mm, a vertical shuttle device, it can do bartacking - the material is fed in the forward and reverse directions, while the flywheel should rotate only in one direction.

The reverse motion in the machine is carried out for fastening by raising the stitch length lever above the zero mark to the middle or to the uppermost position.

Sew on the Seagull machine

The machine performs a zigzag stitch, a complex zigzag - with a needle bar retraction, the highest number of revolutions per minute is 1200, the maximum stitch pitch is 4 mm, the zigzag width is 5 mm, a vertical shuttle device, it can do tack - the material is fed in forward and reverse directions.

The “Chaika” machine differs from the 2-M class by an additional regulator of the width of the zigzag stitch, a lever for shifting the needle bar (complex zigzag machine), which are combined on one device, a lever for lowering the rack and removing the top cover instead of the front board. The remaining parts involved in the formation of the stitch are identical to those of the 2-M class machine and all similar machines of the previous generation with a zigzag stitch.

Threading is indicated in the diagram and in the video tutorial. Winding the lower thread and the sewing process is similar to the 2-M machine class. When performing a straight stitch, the zigzag width regulator should be set to 0, the stitch length is adjusted based on the thickness of the fabric - the thicker it is, the longer the stitch length, and is also determined by the task - the finishing stitch can have a large pitch. The reverse motion in the machine is carried out for fastening by raising the stitch length lever above the zero mark to the middle or to the uppermost position. It is possible that machines of later releases have a reverse lever - reverse.

Watch the video, as the text version of the information is frightening in its vastness. In fact, everything is much simpler.

To perform decorative stitches, you need to remove the top cover and replace the plastic cam-copier with another one with a given pattern.

I can’t show you, but I want to tell you about the Tula typewriter. She, too, like “The Seagull,” enjoys a bad reputation among the population. But I didn’t find anything wrong with it, but only concluded that people simply do not use it correctly. Back in the eighth grade, I discovered a Tula typewriter at my aunt’s in the village. She didn’t sew on it either - something didn’t work out for her. I didn’t know about it, I saw it for the first time, and I didn’t know how to use it either. I intuitively tucked it in and sewed myself a dress - everything was in order!

Advice: do not be afraid! Look carefully at the details - they contain a hint: there is a slot, a hole, which means it is needed for something. The Tula cap differs only in shape - it is flat. There is a hole for the thread - you need to pass it through it. Then simply place it on the shuttle plate, lift it and close it until it clicks. All! The machine is ready for use. The upper thread is threaded like the Seagull.

Sew on a Janome machine

If you look at different sewing machines on the Internet or in a store, you will see their similarities with each other. At the same time, they differ in design features from previous generation machines.

So, we consider conditionally all modern machines using the JANOME class as an example.

Main characteristics: maximum stitch pitch - 4 mm, vertical shuttle device, can do bartacking - material is fed in forward and reverse directions using the reverse button, the width of the zigzag stitch performed is 5 mm, the speed of the machine is indicated in a streamlined manner: “speed depends on pressure pedals”, It is logical to assume that the speed of any machine depends on the pedal pressure, or on the speed of rotation of the hands or feet. However, there are design limitations. The history of the JANOME machine is silent about this.

We see the obvious advantages and differences of the new machines in the figure:

Lack of slide and needle plates;

Hidden upper thread tension regulator;

The cams for various stitches are built into the body, they do not need to be changed every time, and the tips are drawn directly on the machine stand;

Simplified form of upper threading;

Semi-automatic loop, which significantly improves quality and simplifies its production.

Unobvious advantages of the new machines: the possibility of blind, overlock and elastic stitches. I would like to note that beginners should not be deceived by the zipper foot included with the machine: this foot makes it easier to sew in a simple zipper, but not a hidden one. For this operation, the paws are not included in the kit and they are completely different.

In any case, modern machines are more advanced, lighter and more comfortable to use. Good luck with your work!

More complete material on the equipment can be read in my e-book “Home Use Sewing Machine”.

I look forward to your comments and questions. If the article was useful, share it with your friends on social networks.

Seagull sewing machine

Hello, welcome to the Sewing Encyclopedia website. Since I recently touched on the topic of knitwear, today I decided to continue it and figure out how to properly sew knitwear on a sewing machine.

The conversation is very important, since this is a capricious material to work with and not everyone has the necessary equipment such as an overlocker and a stitcher, but they want to work with knitwear. So I decided to tell you how this can be done without special machines.

How to sew knitwear on a regular sewing machine

You can sew knitwear on a regular sewing machine, the main thing is to achieve an elastic seam so that the material can stretch in the direction it needs without problems. If you make a connection with a regular stitch, it will burst when tensioned.

In addition, there are a large number of knitted fabrics whose edges do not fray, so there is no need to overcast them. So in some cases it is possible to work with such material without an overlocker or a stitcher.

What to sew knitwear on

So what can you sew it on? Yes, on any sewing machine, but taking into account the following rules:

1. Straight stitching is only suitable for low-stretch material or loose-fitting models. Such products can be sewn on old, ordinary Chaika and Podolsk sewing machines.
2. All other types of knitwear require elastic seams, at least zigzag. We will talk about them below. These stitches can be used to join fabrics on Janome, Family, Brother, Toyota and other similar types of machines. The main thing is to set them up correctly so that the thread does not loop and is not too stretched, otherwise even a simple zigzag will lose its elasticity.

What needle to sew knitwear on a sewing machine

Many people ask the question: “What needle to sew knitwear with,” and they do it for good reason. Have you ever seen little holes forming along a seam? Most often this happens on cotton knitwear, and the reason for this is the wrong needle selection. The product is damaged and nothing can be done about it.

But you can avoid this situation at the very beginning, just by choosing the right needle. To make it more clear to you how they differ from one another, look at this photo. See, everyone has a different edge. For knitwear, it looks a little blunt, this is done so that the needle does not tear the thread of the material, but slightly pushes it apart.

In addition, the thin tip will form a small loop near the eye of the needle, in which case the nose of the shuttle will not be able to grab the thread, resulting in gaps during the sewing process.

The next thing you should pay attention to when choosing a needle is the marking:

• For wool and cotton knitwear, buy packaging labeled jersey.
• For synthetic knitted fabric, choose one with the inscription stretch.

The next selection criterion is number.

• For thin material - No. 60-70
• For thick people - No. 90

How to sew knitwear with a double needle

Nowadays you can buy double needles in many stores. How to work with them?

These needles are used to hem the edges of the product. On the front side, two straight lines are formed, which imitate a seam made on a cover stitch.

Each needle must have its own spool of thread. They are tucked together up to the needles, and then separated and each one is threaded into the eye separately. Be sure to try their work on a scrap piece and adjust the thread tension if necessary.

What stitch to sew knitwear on a sewing machine

Now let's look at what stitch you can sew elastic fabric on a sewing machine. There are quite a large number of them, so it will not be difficult for you to choose one for your material.

Straight stitch

I have already said that a straight stitch can be used for knitted fabric that has little stretch or for sewing products in an oversized style, that is, a loose fit. When we connect the material with such a stitch, we need to stretch it a little; when it returns to its original state, the seam will be strong and quite elastic.

To show how highly stretchable knitwear behaves during the process of stitching with different stitches, I took a ribana to work and laid the seam in the transverse direction, since the fabric will not stretch along.

Stretch - No. 4

All modern sewing machines have such a stitch, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable for all knitwear. It is great for sewing vertical seams, but quite often there is a strong stretch on horizontal seams.

It is no longer possible to argue with such waves. You can slightly correct the situation by loosening the presser foot or placing paper under it, which is removed after stitching.

Zigzag - No. 5

Even old sewing machines have a zigzag stitch and it is quite suitable for stitching and overcasting knitwear. To make it work, I made the following setup:

• Zigzag width is 2, but you can make it wider;
• straight stitch - 1.5.

I don't really like stitching along the very edge of the fabric, it looks sloppy, so it's best to make a seam allowance, stitch a zigzag without stretching the jersey, and then cut the material close to it. This way there is less deformation and the resulting waves are easily ironed out during sewing.

Another zigzag - No. 10

Using such a zigzag in your work, you will get remarkable stretchability of the knitted fabric, while during sewing on a sewing machine it practically does not deform.

Again, we grind along the allowance, and then we cut the material to the very line. The settings for it were as follows:

• zigzag - 3;
• stitch length - 1.

Stitches imitating overcasting - No. 11,12

These stitches sew and overcast the edges at the same time, but for them you need to install a special foot.

The following settings must be completed:

• zigzag width - 3.5;
• straight stitch length - 2.5;
• thread tension - 3.

On vertical seams, such a zigzag turns out very beautifully if you sew it right along the edge, but on horizontal seams it is better to lay it along the allowance and then trim it. It will be more accurate and there will be less stretching.

Now look at what stitch No. 12 looks like along the edge and made according to the allowance.

We sew knitwear with line number 13

Quite an interesting stitch, which showed itself well when sewing ribana; it is performed with a double stitch both along the fabric and diagonally.

The settings correspond to lines No. 11 and 12.

What is its versatility? Firstly, it can perfectly sew down parts, while the fabric does not stretch the fabric very much, and secondly, this stitch can be used for hemming sleeves and the bottom of the product. Outwardly, it resembles the wrong side of a cover stitch, but its decorative effect makes it possible to perform front finishing.

My settings were as follows:

• zigzag width for stitching - 4;
• zigzag width for decorative stitching - 7;
• straight stitch length - 2.54;
• thread tension - 3.

What threads to sew knitwear on a sewing machine

It's time to talk about what threads are used to sew knitwear. Let me start with the fact that most sewing machines do not like to work with it, so they behave rather capriciously. To somehow reduce these difficulties, it is important to choose the right threads and adjust their tension.

What is the best way to sew elastic material? Of course, thin, durable and elastic threads with the addition of synthetics. Everything that industry produces today meets these parameters. With cotton threads from your grandmother’s chest, you won’t be able to sew high-quality simple knitwear, much less stretch.

Why doesn't the machine sew knitwear?

There are particularly capricious knitwear that the machine refuses to work with. No matter what you do, the line comes with gaps, the threads get tangled and break. How to deal with this problem?

To deal with broken or tangled threads, you just need to adjust the tension, but with skips, the matter will be more complicated, but you can try to figure it out.

1. Apply a special water-soluble film Avalon - this is a stabilizer for machine embroidery. But after making the seams, the product needs to be wetted so that it dissolves.
2. As you work, adjust the paper and scribble on it. Where to place the strip - on top or bottom - is up to you to decide based on in what cases knitwear behaves better.

I tried to touch on all the nuances that will help you understand how to properly sew knitwear on a sewing machine. By following them, you will not have problems when working with such elastic material; the main thing is to select everything according to the recommendations and set up the machine. Good luck!

Many who have tried to sew knitwear on a regular sewing machine have noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. Gaps form in the knitted stitching, the bottom thread loops, and sometimes breaks. Why does this happen and how can I fix it?

Firstly, for sewing knitted fabrics, a special knitting machine is used, it is called a flat-stitch machine - an open stitch machine or a chain stitch machine. The seam on the reverse side looks like a “pigtail”. Look at any factory processing of a T-shirt and you will see this.

Secondly, to sew sections of knitted fabric, a knitted overlocker is used, which has a differential (stretching fabric) rake with simultaneous laying of a sewing chain stitch.

And thirdly, special needles and threads are used for sewing knitwear. The last point is decisive for your sewing machine, so let's figure out which needle you need to sew knitwear, what threads you need to use to get a high-quality stitch, and consider other factors that affect the quality of the stitching.

Needles for sewing knitted fabrics

There are many reasons that affect the quality of the stitch formed when sewing knitwear. One of them is an incorrectly selected needle. Universal needles, which are most often used on sewing machines, are “poorly” suited for sewing knitwear. Not only can the sharp edge of the needle damage the weave of the knitted fabric, but it can also cause the loop near the eye of the needle to be too small. And the nose of the shuttle simply passes by it without catching the top thread. As a result, gaps appear.

Replace the utility needle with a special needle with a rounded point designed for sewing such fabrics. A needle with such a point does not pierce the knitted fibers, but passes between them and creates better conditions for the formation of a loop. The packaging with these needles says “Jersy”, and “ball point” means that the needles have a rounded point.

However, you should know that buying a package of special knitting needles does not always solve the problem, especially for old-type sewing machines such as Podolskaya or Chaika. There are a number of other factors, which will be discussed below.

This diagram shows a knitted weave of stretch fabrics. Outwardly, it resembles knitting or machine knitting, which is why it is called knitted fabric. “Springy” loops give fabrics many useful qualities, such as stretchability, low creasing, etc., but at the same time they create certain difficulties when sewing them on ordinary household sewing machines.

Threads for knitted fabrics and their tension

Not a single lockstitch machine likes to sew knitwear. Knitwear for a lockstitch sewing machine is a test that not all machines can withstand. True, modern household machines cope with this task quite well, provided that certain requirements are met. As you already understand, one of them is high-quality thread and its correct tension.

Sewing threads should be thin, elastic and durable. Basically, all types of modern threads available for sale in the accessories department correspond to these parameters. But, nevertheless, you need to experimentally determine which type of thread is best suited for your machine.

Naturally, you need to “forget” about thick finishing threads, and even more so about threads from your grandmother’s old stocks. Ideally, threads on large conical bobbins are suitable for sewing knitwear, but since they are quite expensive, use threads on small bobbins, such as “Ideal”.

Before sewing knitwear, you need to correctly adjust the tension of the upper and lower threads.

Typically, the bobbin thread should not be adjusted, but when sewing knitwear, this can often eliminate thread looping in the stitching. If, when you tighten the top thread, the looping at the bottom does not stop, then try to slightly loosen the tension on the bottom thread.

Please note that when you sew pieces of knitted fabric, the stitching will be looser in one direction (usually transverse). This “effect” cannot be eliminated using tension. It’s just that the knitwear, under the influence of the foot and the teeth of the rake, stretches, and then takes on its previous shape and the stitches are weakened. By the way, the presser foot pressure also needs to be adjusted.

To eliminate this, use stabilizers (gaskets), including pre-cut strips from newspaper. A paper strip is placed under the fabric, and then carefully pulled out of the seam. By the way, often just such a “cunning” method can eliminate gaps in the stitching of a Podolskaya or Chaika sewing machine.

But, naturally, this is too extravagant a method that is undesirable to use. If you have replaced the needles and selected the threads, adjusted the tension, but looping and skipping have not disappeared, then you need to adjust the sewing machine. But only an experienced craftsman can set it up for sewing knitted fabric.

What is the difference between knitted overlock

Almost all modern household overlockers are knitted overlockers. The main difference between a knitted overlocker and a regular one is that a knitted overlocker has a special rack design (teeth under the foot). During operation, the lath specifically compresses (stretches) the knitted fabric, and after stitching, the fabric is stretched (pulled) back. As a result, the seam is stretchable and can withstand more tensile load.

For example, if you sew knitted fabric on a regular machine, and at the same time tighten the thread tension strongly to eliminate the slack in the stitching, you will get a very beautiful stitch, but not strong. Pull this area with your hands and your beautiful seam will simply burst. This is the main purpose of knitting machines - to create an elastic and stretchable seam.

Overlockers with a differential rake can sew not only knitwear. This function can be easily disabled using a special knob. And even, on the contrary, you can “force” the rail to collect the fabric. You need to know that overlockers of older models, including class 51 overlockers, cannot efficiently process knitted fabrics. And don’t be surprised if the connecting seams of knitted clothing, processed only with a three-thread overlocker, will burst over time.

Other reasons why the machine does not sew knitwear

Well, one last thing. A Podolsk sewing machine or a Chaika sewing machine often refuses to sew knitwear at all. And even a master cannot always set it up for sewing knitted fabric. If you want to check the work of a sewing machine repairman, ask him to sew a piece of the most “harmful” knitted fabric at the end of the job. If the line does not have even one omission, it means that this is a “good” and experienced master.

Older machines have different adjustments for the interaction between the needle and the nose of the shuttle. After all, at the time when they were released, no one suspected that such fabrics would be used all the time. Therefore, modern machines are configured for sewing knitwear, but old machines need to be reconfigured.

How to sew knitted fabrics on a regular sewing machine

How to sew knitwear without an opener on a household machine

The ability to sew well on a machine helps not only to realize creative ambitions, but also to significantly save the family budget. Do you already have a sewing machine or are you just planning to buy one? Remember, it is not the device itself that sews, but the person, so it’s time to ask yourself how to start sewing from scratch.

Where to start sewing?

Where to start sewing: the required minimum

If you have yet to buy a sewing machine, then it is worth spending some time studying the technical characteristics and reviews. If you have never sewed and are not sure that this is your calling, then it is recommended to choose a budget model costing up to 10 thousand rubles.

Sewing is not just a hobby, but painstaking work. To avoid the excruciating pain of wasted money, choose an inexpensive device from trusted brands, such as Brother or Janome. Most likely, you will be satisfied with the functions that machines in this price category have for a long time.

You must also purchase a minimum set of tools necessary for cutting and sewing.

You will definitely need tailor's scissors, measuring tape and needles. It’s good if you already have a serger for processing seams and a good iron. Everything else can be purchased as needed

Next, you need to carefully study the manual for using the sewing machine. After that, take scraps or old fabric and try sewing different types of seams. Try to achieve an even stitch. If everything worked out, then you can decide on the item you would like to sew, choose fabric, threads and accessories.

To sew clothes, you will also need appropriate patterns, but in general for the first time it is recommended to choose a simpler item, for example, a pillowcase, sheet, potholder or cereal bags. After this, you can try hemming jeans, sewing pajamas, a simple skirt or a house dress.

You can choose a difficult thing right away, but in this case there is a risk of not finishing the job. And if you take on sewing a simple but beautiful thing, then if you are successful, you will gain confidence in your abilities and the desire to continue.

To sew clothes you will need patterns. They can be purchased or downloaded on the Internet. Together with them there are often recommendations on how much and what kind of fabric you will need, and sometimes step-by-step instructions. Patterns can be printed on a printer in A4 format, cut out individual parts and then glued, or you can find a large format option for printing on a plotter.

You can buy a special magazine for needlewomen, for example Burda. It also contains patterns that do not need to be transferred to tracing paper, but just need to be cut out. Do not forget about periodic fitting and adjustment of the item on a living person.

If you encounter any difficulties, do not hesitate to contact the handicraft forums. They will always help you with advice. It would also be a good idea to attend a couple of master classes, especially when you are planning to sew some complex item, for example a coat. Sometimes such events are held free of charge.