The construction of the bodice of the dress has a fitted silhouette with set-in sleeves, narrowed down. Middle back line
If you often sew, then you know that any product can be modeled on a base pattern. It is precisely the accuracy of the construction of the base, whether it be a dress, blouse, jacket or any other product, that is the key to a perfect fit and successful tailoring. An accurate base pattern will allow you to sew any dress without numerous fittings, to get real pleasure from the work and the result. It remains only to learn and independently build such a design - so that it smoothly fits the figure, gives freedom of movement and meets the requirements of the silhouette of the product. Silhouettes of dresses are divided into several types: very adjacent, adjacent, semi-adjacent, straight. In order for your dress to “sit” perfectly, you should properly allow for ease of fitting when building the base. How to make them correctly and how to build an accurate pattern-the basis of the dress, we will tell in this article.
- Dress length 100 cm
- Back length to waist 43cm
- Front length to waist 47 cm
- Shoulder length 12cm
- Half neck 19 cm
- Half circumference above bust 44 cm
- Half bust 48 cm
- Half waist 38cm
- Half hips 51 cm
- hip height 20 cm
- The distance between the high points of the chest 20 cm
IMPORTANT!All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Circumference (CG) of more than 80 cm.
Drawing a dress pattern
The construction of a dress pattern begins by drawing a rectangle ABCD.
Dress width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to the half-girth of the chest according to the measurement plus an increase in the freedom of fitting from: AB \u003d DC \u003d 48 cm + an increase in freedom of fitting.
IMPORTANT! When constructing a dress base pattern, it is necessary to take into account the increases shown in Table 1. There you will also find detailed instructions on how to use them.
Dress length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 100 centimeters (the length of the dress according to the measurements).
Pattern-base of the dress: 1 design stage
Armhole depth. From point A, they lay down the Depth of the Armhole with an increase and put a point G (GPr \u003d 1/10 Chest Circumference + 10.5 cm \u003d 9.6 + 10.5 \u003d 20 + increase).
From point G, a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC, and the point of intersection is designated G1.
Dress waistline. From point A, lay down 43 cm (the length of the back to the waist according to the measure) and put a point T. From point T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with the line BC. The point of intersection is denoted by the letter T1.
The line of the hips of the dress. From point T, lay 20 cm down (Height of the hips by measure) and put a point L, from which a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the line BC. The point of intersection is denoted by the letter L1.
The width of the back of the dress (SHS). From the point G to the right, lay the width of the back and put the point G2 (WB = (1/8 Chest Circumference +5.5 cm) for all sizes plus an increase in freedom of fitting from Table 1).
Note. For a very fitted silhouette, the increase in Back Width, Armhole Width and Front Width can be omitted, but a fabric with elastic fibers should be chosen.
From the point G2, a line is drawn up to the intersection with the line AB and the intersection point is denoted by the letter P.
The width of the armhole of the dress (SHPr). From the point G2 to the right, lay the width of the armhole G2G3 (G2G3 \u003d (1/8 Chest Circumference - 1.5 cm) for all sizes, plus an increase in freedom of fitting from Table 1.
Lifting the front of the dress. From the point T1, lay 47 cm upwards and put the point W (Length of the front to the waist according to the measure).
Draw a horizontal line from point W to the left. From the point G3 raise the perpendicular. Point P1 is obtained at the intersection of the lines, and the point of intersection with the line AB is denoted by the letter P2.
Side line of the dress. G2G3 is divided in half. Point G4. From the point G4, the line is lowered down to the intersection with the DC line; its intersection with the TT1 line is designated by the letter T2, and the intersection with the LL1 line by the letter L2.
Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armholes. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into four equal parts.
Calculation of traveling tucks. Excess fabric for tucks at the waist is calculated by the formula: Half-girth of the chest minus half-girth of the waist = 48-38 = 10 cm.
Of these, 1/3 is removed into the side darts - 1.5 cm each in the back and front of the dress, the remaining 7 cm are distributed in the back and front - 4 cm are removed into the tuck along the back of the dress, 3 cm - in front of the dress. For additional fitting (if necessary), a second tuck is made along the front and one more along the central seam of the back.
Pattern-base of the dress: 2 design stage
Back construction
Dress neckline. From point A, 6.5 centimeters are laid to the right (1/3 the half-girth of the neck according to the measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19/3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
From point 6.8, 2 centimeters are laid upwards. Points A and 2 are connected by a concave line.
Shoulder slope of the dress. From point P down lay 1.5 centimeters.
Shoulder line. From point 2 (neck) through point 1.5 (shoulder slope) draw a shoulder line 12 centimeters long (shoulder length according to measurements plus 0-1 centimeter for fit for all sizes).
Important! The back shoulder is slightly adjusted when sewing the product.
Armhole line of the dress. From the point G2, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. The armhole line is drawn through points 12, the middle point of the division line PG2, points 2 and G4.
A tuck at the waistline of the dress. The distance T-1.5 is divided in half, 2 cm are laid from the division point to the left and right, and then vertical lines are drawn up and down as shown in the drawing. 3-4 cm are laid down from the armhole line, 2 cm upwards from the hip line. Points 2 (tuck depth) are connected to points with points 3-4 and 2.
Pattern-base of the dress: 3 design stage
Building the front of the dress
Dress neckline. From the point W to the left lay 6.8 cm and put the point W1 (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck according to the measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19: 3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
7.8 cm are laid down from the W point (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck according to the measurements plus 1.5 cm for all sizes): 19: 3 + 1.5 = 7.8 cm.
Points Ш1 and 7.8 are connected by a dotted line, divided in half, and 6.8 centimeters are laid from the point Ш through the division point of the dashed line. Points Ш1, 6.8 and 7.8 are connected by a concave line.
Shoulder length from the neckline of the dress to the chest tuck. 4 centimeters are laid to the left from point Ш1 and 1 centimeter is laid down from this point. Points Ш1 and 1 connect. From point G1 to the left lay 1/2 of the distance between the high points of the chest G1G5 = 20/2 = 10 cm Points 1 (shoulder) and G5 are connected.
Breast tuck dress. The right side of the chest tuck 1-G5 is divided in half and 4 cm are set aside from the dividing point to the left (half-girth of the chest by measure minus half-girth above the chest by measure: 48 - 44 \u003d 4.
The left tuck line is drawn from point G5 through point 4 with a length equal to 1-G5 (right side of the tuck), point P3 is obtained.
Shoulder length from chest tuck to armhole. Point P3 is connected to the upper division point of the line PG2 (back). Then, from the point P3 along the dotted line, 7.5 cm are laid to the left (shoulder length minus 4.5 cm): 12-4.5 \u003d 7.5 cm.
Point 7.5 and the lower division point of the P2G3 line are connected by a dotted line. From point 7.5 along the dotted line down lay 1.5 cm (shoulder slope). Points 1.5 and P3 are connected.
Armhole line of the dress. The dotted line from point 1.5 to the lower point of dividing the P2G3 line is divided in half and 1 centimeter is laid off from the dividing point to the right. From point G3, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through points 1.5, 1, the lower point of dividing the line P2G3, point 2 and, touching the armhole descent line, to point G4.
Dart at the waistline (front). From the point G5 (the top of the chest tuck), a perpendicular is drawn down to the line of the hips. From the point G5, 5-6 centimeters are laid down. Set aside 1.5 cm along the waist line to the left and right. Points 5-6 are connected to points 1.5 and 1.5 and carried out to the hip line.
Dart on the waistline of the dress (side). From the point G3 to the right, lay down 3 cm and lower the dotted line down to the intersection with the line of the hips. From the point of intersection of the hip line, 1.5 centimeters are laid up, and from point 3 down 7-8 cm. Then, from the point of intersection with the waist line, 1 cm is laid to the right and left and connected to points 7-8 and 1.5.
What is important to consider when building a dress pattern
Important! If the half-circumference of the hips according to your measurement turns out to be greater than according to the drawing, then 1/2 of the difference between the half-circumference of the hips according to the measure and the half-circumference of the chest is added to the front of the dress and 1/2 to the back of the dress.
The line of the hips of the back and front. The lack of volume in the hips is calculated by the formula: Semi-circumference of the hips by measurement minus Semi-circumference of the chest by measurement = 51-48 \u003d 3 cm. Half of the obtained value is added to the back and half to the front (1.5 cm each).
Side seam on the back of the dress. Lay 1.5 cm from the point T2 to the left, 1.5 cm from the point L2 to the right. The line of the side seam is drawn from the point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further to the intersection with the DC line.
Side seam in front of the dress. Lay 1.5 cm from point T2 to the right, 1.5 cm from point L2 to the left. The line of the side seam is drawn from point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further to the intersection with the DC line.
For a dress with a sleeve, you need to build a sleeve pattern:
Especially for beginners!
You can find even more creative ideas and patterns on the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School website. Sign up for our free newsletter!
Half-girths (measurements of girths we divide in half and get half-girths):
Rice. one
Ssh - neck half circumference
SG1 - chest half circumference first
SG2 - half chest circumference of the second
SG3 - chest half circumference third
St - half waist
Sat - semi-circumference of the hips
Lengths:
Rice. 2
Di - product length
Dp - shoulder length
DTS - back length to waist
Dtp - length of the shelf to the waist
Rice. 3
Widths:
Шп - shoulder width
Wh - chest width
Шс - back width
Rice. 4
Heights:
Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest 
Rice. 5
Vpks - shoulder height oblique back
Rice. 6
Vg - chest height
We take measurements from the figure according to figures 1−4. When taking measurements of chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the centimeter tape should be located strictly horizontally in the narrowest / widest place (depending on the measurement). When removing the girths, it is not necessary to stretch the tape, as this may lead to a narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and front, as well as determine the projected line of the shoulder seam.
Flexibility gains
The increase depends on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when building. For example, we will take the average values. And also you need to take into account that we use the increase to build half of the product.For an example of building a dress, we will take a size 48 (this is a size of 96.0 cm across the chest) for a height of 164.
Measurements:
W=18.5 cmCr1 \u003d 45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat =52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Dtp = 44.4 cm
W = 13.3 cm
W = 17.3 cm
W = 18.3 cm
Wpx =43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Vg = 27.5 cm
Additions:
Pg = 6.0 cmFri = 3.0 cm
Pb = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr \u003d 4.9 cm
Pdts = 0.5 cm
Pdtp = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Psp = 2.0 cm
Calculation for building a grid:
Grid width (A0a1) = Cr3 + Pg \u003d 48.0 + 6.0 \u003d 54.0 cmBack width (A0a) \u003d Ws + Pshs \u003d 18.3 + 0.8 \u003d 19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2) \u003d Wg + (Sg2-Sg1) + Pshp \u003d 17.3 + (50.4−45.9) + 0.3 \u003d 22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2) \u003d Shpr \u003d Shset-(Wsp + Shpol) \u003d 54.0-(19.1 + 22.1) \u003d 12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) \u003d Vprz + Pspr 0.5 * Pdts \u003d 21.5 + 2.0 + 0.5 * 0.5 \u003d 23.8 cm
The position of the waist line (A0T) \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 0.5 cm \u003d 43.4 cm
The position of the hip line (A0B) \u003d Dts / 2-2 \u003d 42.9 / 2-2 \u003d 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A "H1) \u003d Di + Dts \u003d 90.0 + 0.5 cm \u003d 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be postponed after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will postpone the length of the product from point A1.
Mesh building
Step 1
Rice. 7
We take point A0 as the first point of construction and from it we set aside the width of the grid to the right - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.
To the right of the point A0 on the line A0a1 we set aside the width of the backrest, we get point a.
To the left of the point a1 on the line A0a1 we set aside the width of the shelf and get the point a2.
The segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.
Down from point A0, we set aside the height of the grid and set the point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).
From point A0 downwards, we postpone the position of the chest line on the line A0G and get point G.
Also from the point A0 on the segment A0G lays the position of the waist line and we get the point T.
And we postpone the position of the line of the hips from the point T on the segment A0G and get point B.
From point a1 down, we also set aside the height of the grid and get point H3. We close the rectangle.
From points G, T and B we draw horizontal lines and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with the line a1H3.
In turn, from points, a and a2, we lower the vertical to the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
The first and important step in building the mesh should look like the one shown in Fig. 7.
Building a drawing of the back
Step 2
Rice. eight
From point A0 we set aside to the left on the line 0.5 cm - this is the withdrawal of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0".
From point A0 "down along the line A0H we set aside the level of the shoulder blades, which is 0.4 * Dts \u003d 0.4 * 42.9 \u003d 17.2 cm and get point U. We connect point U with point A0" with a temporary line.
We build the depth of the neck of the back A0 "A \u003d A2A1 \u003d 7.2 / 3 \u003d 2.4 down from the point A0" on the line A0 "U. We complete the rectangle and draw up the neckline of the back of the curved curve.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. eight.
Step 3
Rice. 9
From the point T to the left on the waist line TT3, we postpone the withdrawal along the waist line = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.
To build the middle seam of the back, we set aside from the point H to the right a tap equal to the tap along the waist line 1.5 cm and get the point H1. We carry out the middle seam of the back through the points A-U-T1-H1.
From the neck of the back along the middle seam, we lay the length of the back down and get the H point (correct length).
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 9.
Step 4
Rice. 10
We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Shp + tuck opening \u003d 13.3 + 2.0 \u003d 15.3 cm, where the tuck opening is 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 equal to Vpk + Pvpk, where Ppvk \u003d Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case \u003d 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 \u003d 43.7 cm.
At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1, we set the point P1.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 10.
Step 5
Rice. eleven
Let's start building a shoulder tuck by determining the position of the tuck along the shoulder seam. The tuck should be located 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 \u003d 4.4 - 3.3, take a value of 4.0 cm.
We took the tuck solution when constructing the shoulder seam = 2.0 cm. We set aside point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 in increments of 2.0 cm. Further, from points I1 and I2 we draw with a radius equal to 7.0 cm and we get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to raise the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.
We connect the sides of the darts with the points of the neckline A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular, we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. eleven.
Step 6
Rice. 12
We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of the P1G1 line - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To build the point P3 = 18.9 / 3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm. segment G1a1.
From the corner G1 of the armhole we draw a bisector with a length = Shpr * 0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8 * 0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.
The auxiliary point G2 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole, i.e. Spr / 2 = 12.8 / 2 = 6.4 cm.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 12.
Step 7
Rice. thirteen
The armhole line of the back is drawn with a smooth line, while the P2 point should have a right angle.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. thirteen.
Building a drawing of a shelf
Step 8
Fig.14
To build the point of the center of the chest, the distance G3G4 / 2 - 1.0 = 22.½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from the point G3 to the right and we get the point G6.
For products of the dress group, we draw up the descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we set aside 0.5 cm from point T3 down and get point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of Г3Г6.
To build the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh / 3 + Pshgor \u003d 18.5 / 3 + 1.0 \u003d 7.2 cm, set aside from point A3 to the left on the horizontal and get point A4. We calculate the depth of the neck according to the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and draw a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and get the neck point A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make serifs and get an auxiliary point A3 "from which we draw the arc of the neck of the shelf.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 14.
Step 9
Fig.15
The position of the highest point of the mammary glands is set aside from point A4 with a radius equal to Bg \u003d 27.5 cm and we get point G7.
At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the height of the chest from point G7 and the radius of the opening of the tuck from point A4, we find point A9.
We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and get the chest tuck of the shelf.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 15.
Step 10
Rice. sixteen
To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of the point P4 on the segment a2G4. For this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm \u003d 18.9 - 1.0 \u003d 17.9 cm, we get the distance P4G4. Further, this distance G4P4 / 3 = 6.0 cm and postpone this distance from the point G4 up and get the point P6.
Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of the arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to the distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.
We draw the line of the shoulder through the points A9P5.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. sixteen.
Step 11
Fig.17
To build the armhole of the shelf, we draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.
From the angle G4 to build an armhole, we draw the bisector Spr * 0.2 = 12.8 * 0.2 = 2.6 cm.
Through the points P5 - P6 - G2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 17.
Building sidelines
Step 12
Rice. eighteen
The construction of the side lines along the line of the chest will start from the point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. From the point G4 we draw a vertical down, this is the center line of the side seam.
At the intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom, we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.
To design the side seam, take 0.4 * R-p vyt tal \u003d 0.4 * 11.5 \u003d 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete solution of the tuck in the side seam. To do this, 4.6 / 2 \u003d 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from the T2 point. And we get points T21 and T22.
Next, we calculate the expansion along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 \u003d (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 \u003d 2.0 cm. We also divide it in half 2/2 \u003d 1.0 cm, in order to put aside the extension along the hips on both sides of point B2. And we get points B21 and B22.
In this construction example, we will leave the dress of a straight silhouette at the bottom, therefore, along the bottom line along the side seam, we set aside the same values as for the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.
Through the points G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the shelf and back.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. eighteen.
Step 13
Rice. nineteen
To build a tuck along the waist line of the back, we determine the position of the tuck along the waist line on the back, for this, the distance T1T21 / 2 = 21.8 / 2 = 10.9 cm and we get point T4.
Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line (R-r vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side) * 0.55 \u003d (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 \u003d 3.8 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.8 / 2 \u003d 1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.
The height of the tuck from the waist line up and down is 15.0 cm each - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. nineteen.
Step 14
Rice. twenty
To build a tuck along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf, for this we lower the vertical down from the waist line from point T6 to the line of the hips - we get point T5.
Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waistline R-r vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side-R-r pulled out sp \u003d 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 \u003d 3.1 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3, ½ \u003d 1.55 and set aside from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.
The height of the tuck from the waistline up and down is the same as on the back, 15.0 cm each - we get points K3 and K4.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. twenty.
Step 15
Rice. 21
To build relief lines, it is necessary to translate part of the chest tuck of the shelf. To do this, with a notch equal to the distance from the neck to the tuck of the back = 4.0 cm, set aside 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.
We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the radius of the transfer of the chest tuck = 26.3 cm.
Now, from point A4, we set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 \u003d 4.0 cm, put the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii, we get point A8. Then we connect points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get the line of the shoulder to the line of the relief of the shelf and the section of the relief of the shelf.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 21.
Step 16
Rice. 22
To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the line of the center of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.
We lower the relief lines of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get the points H4 and H5, respectively.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 22.
Rice. 23
The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look like the one shown in fig. 23.
Step 17
Rice. 24
Next, you need to transfer the main details of the shelf, the barrel of the shelf, the back and the barrel of the back to tracing paper and add allowances for the seams.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 24.
If these are your first steps in designing, then the design must be checked, that is, the dress should be sewn from mock fabric and tried on to be sure that there were no errors in the calculations and construction.
Also, after construction, it is necessary to add the details of the facings of the neck and armholes of the back and shelves. And also, if desired, decorative elements - coquettes, flounces, edgings, etc.
Photo: site
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
The material was prepared by Anna Soboleva
23:36 unknown 61 Comments
Hello dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes of complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template, according to which fabric details are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, then I will advise the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, building a pattern will help you quickly understand and master the principles of designing clothes. In addition, the pattern is built according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit the figure well, ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And finally, building a pattern is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress according to the method of Tatyana Roslyakova.
In the last article, we learned how to take the measurements that we need to make a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the drawing of structures is carried out only on half of the figure, therefore, measurements of volumes and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I wrote my measurements as an example. By these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half neck (Ssh) | |
Bust (Cg) | 40,5 |
Waist (St) | |
Half hips (Sat) | 44.5 |
Back length to waist (Dts) | |
Back Width (W) | 16,5 |
Front length to waist (dtp) | |
Chest Height (Hg) | |
Center of the chest (Cg) | |
Shoulder length (Dp) | |
Product length (Di) |
In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for free fit (CO). These additions are added to almost all measurements in the design drawing, they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for free fitting differs in size. The allowances for clothing styles also differ (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for constructing patterns indicate different increments for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increments indicated in the methodology. But for now, we are learning how to build the base of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: adjacent and semi-adjacent with the following additions:
Please note that the increments indicated in the table are added in full to the half measure. That is, if the measurement of the chest circumference is 81 cm, then the semi-circumference of the chest = 40.5 cm, for an adjacent silhouette, an increase in free fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, which means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm more. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the details of the pattern in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
armhole width - 50%.
distribution of gain along the chest line
I will indicate all the allowances for free fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when constructing a pattern. In this article, we will build a dress with an adjacent silhouette.Let's start drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm longer than the length of the future dress. If you have never built patterns before, then I will advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, it can be purchased at an office supply store. Drawing on such paper is a pleasure! Drawings are accurate and even. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with a vertex at point P, stepping back from the top edge of 5 cm. From the point P down in a straight line, set aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put the point H (segment PH \u003d Di \u003d 85 cm).
- the size of the solution of the front tuck \u003d 0.25 of the total solution of the tucks (13.5 x 0.25 \u003d 3.4 cm),
- the size of the side tuck solution = 0.45 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
- the size of the back tuck solution = 0.3 of the total solution (13.5 x 0.3 \u003d 4.1 cm)
shelf
- the front of the product
Neck
- neckline
Armhole
- cutout for sleeves (cut from the shoulder to the side seams to connect the sleeves with the bodice)
tuck
- excess fabric taken into the seam. With the help of darts, the necessary forms are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can build a pattern of a single-seam set-in sleeve.
Before you start sewing any product, you should first build a basic pattern.
The basic dress pattern we're going to look at today can be used to model all kinds of dresses, blouses, jackets, and even coats.
As an example, the calculation and construction of a basic dress pattern will be made on a figure with the following measurements:
| Dimensional sign | Designation | Size (cm) |
|---|---|---|
| Semicircumference of the neck | US | 17,5 |
| Half bust first | SG 1 | 44,5 |
| Half bust second | SG 2 | 43 |
| Half bust third | SG 3 | 42,5 |
| Waist circumference | ST | 34 |
| Semicircumference of the hips | Sat | 47 |
| hip height | WB | 18 |
| back waist length | DTS | 39,5 |
| Length of the product | Diz | 100 |
| Back Width | ShS | 16,5 |
| armhole height | VP | 19 |
| Shoulder length | DPL | 12 |
| back shoulder slope | NPS | 40 |
| chest height | VG | 25 |
| First chest width | SHG 1 | 18 |
| Second chest width | SHG 2 | 16,5 |
| Distance between the centers of the mammary glands | RC | 9 |
| Dart solution level | urv | 7,5 |
| Shoulder slope in front | NPP | 23,5 |
| Front waist length | car accident | 43 |
The measurements taken from the figure are not yet the dimensions of the product details, especially since they are taken the same way for all types of clothing. Therefore, when constructing a drawing of the base, in addition to the measurements taken, allowances for free fit are taken into account, by which it is necessary to expand the details of the product in certain areas of measurements.
The increase is not a constant value, it does not depend on the size of the figure and changes in accordance with the direction of fashion, the purpose of clothing, the property of the fabric, etc.
The increase provides freedom of breath, movement or serves to create a silhouette of clothing.
The adjacent (fitted) silhouette emphasizes the waist line, the straight one - hides the shape of the figure, the semi-flying one - slightly emphasizes them, the free one - creates a flying shape, expanded from the shoulder line or armhole, with the formation of a coattail.
Table of allowances for loose fit (CO)
| Silhouette | SG 1 | ShS | SHG 1 | ST | Sat | VP |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adjoined | 0,5-1 | 0,6-0,8 | 0 | 1-1,5 | 0,5-1 | 1,5 |
| semi-adjacent | 1,5-2 | 0,8-1 | 0-0,3 | 2-3 | 1-1,5 | 2 |
| Straight | 2,5-3 | 1-1,5 | 0,5-0,8 | 4-5 | 2-3 | 2,5 |
| Free | 3,5 | 1,5-2 | 0,8-1,5 | by model | ||
Building the back of the dress
1. Construct a right angle with a vertex at point P, from which to lay down vertically:
Armhole depth level: RG = measure VPr + CO = 19 cm + 2 cm = 21 cm
Waist line position: RT = measurement DTS = 39.5 cm
Product length: PH = measure DIz = 100 cm
Hip position: TB = WB measurement = 18 cm
Through all the obtained points draw horizontal lines to the left.
2. Back neck width: RR 1 \u003d 1/3 measurements SS + 0.5 cm \u003d 1/3 17.5 cm + 0.5 cm \u003d 6.3 cm
For figures with fat deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra or developed muscles in the region of the shoulder girdle: PP 1 = 1/3 of the SS measurement + 1-1.5 cm.
3. Neck depth: PP 2 \u003d 1/3 Neck width \u003d 1/3 6.3 cm \u003d 2 cm.
Or the depth of the neck is equal to the difference between the measurements DTS - DTS 1,
where DTS is a measure of the length of the waist of the back, measured from the point of the base of the neck to the waist along the back, and DTS 1 is from the 7th cervical vertebra.
At point P 2, draw the neck at a right angle.
4. Back width: GG 1 = measure SS + CO = 16.5 cm + 1 cm = 17.5 cm.
5. Whole armhole width: ShPr \u003d (SG 1 + CO) - (SHS + CO) - (SHG 1 + CO) \u003d (44.5 cm + 1.5 cm) - (16.5 cm + 1 cm) - (18 cm + 0, 3 cm) = 10.2 cm.
6. Side seam position: G 1 G 2 \u003d 1/2 ShPr \u003d 1/2 10.2 cm \u003d 5.1 cm.
In products adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes the side seam is located in the middle of the armhole.
Also, the side seam can be located 1/3 of the width of the armhole from G 1 to the left.
For complete figures the position of the side seam is at a distance of 1/2 of the entire width of the armhole minus 1 cm.
In products of raglan cut, shirt, kimono, the side seam is always located in the middle of the armhole.
From G 2 we lower the vertical down, we get T 1, B 1.
7. Building a shoulder cut
From R 1 with a radius equal to the measure of DPL + the size of the tuck solution, an arc is drawn. From T with a radius equal to the measure of the NPS, a notch is made on the first arc. At the intersection of these arcs, we get the point P.
R 1 P \u003d DPL measure + tuck solution \u003d 12 cm + 2 cm \u003d 14 cm.
TP \u003d measurement of NPS \u003d 40 cm.
The solution of the shoulder tuck is determined depending on the posture of the figure and the structure of the fabric.
From P up to draw a vertical to the intersection with the horizontal, we get P 1. Divide the segment PP 1 in half and connect the division point with a thin line with R 1. On a thin line from R 1, set aside 1/3 of the measurements of DPL, we get a point v.
R 1 v= 1/3 12 cm = 4 cm.
Note. For figures with protruding shoulder blades, the tuck is placed closer to the middle of the shoulder; for figures with a curvature of the back in the region of the spine, they are moved towards the neck of the back or placed in it.
From v mark the depth of the groove along a thin line: centuries 1 = 2 cm.
The direction of the darts depends on the model, but they are usually placed parallel to the middle of the back. The length of the tuck is 7-10 cm, depending on the depth: the deeper the tuck, the longer it is.
The sides of the undercut are equalized along the larger side: centuries 2 = v 1 v 2 = 8 cm.
Connect a straight point v 1 with P.
8. Back armhole
Draw a horizontal line from the point P to the right and at the intersection with the vertical from G 1, we get P 2.
Armhole reference point: G 1 O \u003d G 1 P 2 / 3 + 2 cm = 16.5 cm / 3 + 2 cm = 7.5 cm.
Set aside along the bisector of the angle G 1: G 1 O 1 \u003d 0.2 Armhole width + 0.5 cm \u003d 0.2 10.2 cm + 0.5 cm \u003d 2.5 cm.
Note. For a stooped figure, this segment is increased by 0.5 cm, for a kinky figure, it is reduced by 0.5 cm.
Draw the armhole of the back with a smooth line through the points P, O, O 1, G 2.
9. Building a waistline
Deflection at the waist along the side cut: T 1 T 2 \u003d 2 cm.
Increasing the waist line on the side: T 2 T 3 \u003d 1 cm.
For products cut off at the waist, the increase is 0 cm, and the waist line of the bodice runs horizontally TT 2.
10. Design the side seam of the back with a concavity of 0.3-0.5-0.7 cm through the points G 2 T 3.
11. Hip extension:(SB + CO) - (SG 1 + CO) \u003d (47 cm + 1.5 cm) - (44.5 cm + 1.5 cm) \u003d 2.5 cm
If the line of the side seam divides the armhole in half, then the total expansion along the hips, equal to 2.5 cm, is also divided in half. If the width of the back armhole was taken as 1/3 of the entire armhole, then the expansion along the hips of the back is also equal to 1/3 of the total expansion.
B 1 B 2 = 1/2 2.5 cm = 1.3 cm.
12. Bottom back width: HH 1 = BB 2 + 1 cm
Or, from point B 2, lower the vertical (for a narrowed product) and expand by the desired amount.
For a stooped figure, the width along the bottom line is equal to the width along the hips: HH 1 = BB 2
13. Draw a smooth line of the thigh with a bulge of 0.5-0.7-1 cm through the points T 3, B 2, H 1.
14. The depth of the solution of tucks at the waist and their number depends on the silhouette of the product and the characteristics of the physique. In products of straight and extended silhouettes, tucks at the waist are not provided.
The total solution of tucks: (SG 1 + CO) - (ST + CO) \u003d (44.5 cm + 1.5 cm) - (34 cm + 2 cm) \u003d 10 cm.
From the resulting difference, you need to subtract the amount of deflection along the side seam of the back equal to 2 cm (point 9) and along the side seam of the shelf 2 cm.
10 cm - 4 cm \u003d 6 cm - the sum of the tackle darts of the back and shelves.
For a proportional figure, the depth of the tail tuck along the shelf is greater than along the back, and then out of 6 cm, approximately 2/3 is taken to the shelf, and 1/3 to the back.
Note. For figures with protruding buttocks, the depth of the darts at the waist along the back should be increased.
For figures with protruding hips, the deflection at the waist should be increased along the side sections of the front and back.
For figures with a protruding belly, you can refuse to build a front tuck, and if it is necessary, then it should be made to the minimum size.
15.Back tuck position
We divide the distance GG 1 in half and from this point we draw a line of the center of the tuck parallel to the line of the middle of the back down to the hips.
Dart solution: T 4 T 5 \u003d 1/3 6 cm \u003d 2 cm.
The length of the tuck at the top is 3 cm below the level of the chest, at the bottom 3 cm above the hip line.
Building a dress shelf
It is better to build a drawing of a shelf of a dress opposite the drawing of the back.
16. Construct a right angle with a vertex at the point P 3, from which to lay down vertically: P 3 T 6 \u003d measure of the accident \u003d 43 cm.
17. Lowering the waistline: T 6 T 7 \u003d 1 cm (for products cut off at the waist).
For figures with a large protrusion of the abdomen, this segment increases by 1-1.5 cm.
If the product is not detachable at the waist, then the reduction is 0 cm.
18. Transfer from the drawing of the back:
- chest line: T 6 G 3 = cut GT = 18.5 cm
- hip line: T 6 B 3 \u003d segment TB \u003d measurement WB \u003d 18 cm.
- product length: T 6 H 2 (T 7 H 2) = TN = 60.5 cm
Through all the obtained points draw horizontal lines to the right.
19. The width of the neck of the shelf: R 3 R 4 \u003d 1/3 measurements of SS + 0.5 cm \u003d 1/3 17.5 cm + 0.5 cm \u003d 6.3 cm.
20. Neck depth: R 3 R 5 = Neck width + 1 cm = 6.3 cm + 1 cm = 7.3 cm.
21. Shelf width: D 3 D 4 \u003d measurement WH + CO \u003d 18 cm + 0.3 cm \u003d 18.3 cm.
22. Side seam position: G 4 G 5 \u003d 1/2 ShPr \u003d 1/2 10.2 cm \u003d 5.1 cm (item 5, 6).
From G 5 draw a vertical down, at the intersection we get T 8, B 4.
23. From G 3 to the right, horizontally set aside the distance to the center of the chest: G 3 G 6 \u003d measure RC \u003d 9 cm.
24. Construction of the chest tuck:
a) connect the straight line R 4 with G 6 and extend it down;
b) from R 4 in a straight line, set aside: R 4 C \u003d measure VG \u003d 25 cm (first side of the chest tuck);
c) from C up along the line, set aside the measure of the URV.
CU = 7.5 cm;
d) from Y to the right horizontally lay aside the solution of the chest tuck: YU 1 \u003d SG 1 - SG 2 \u003d 44.5 cm - 43 cm \u003d 1.5 cm.
e) from the point C through Y 1, draw up the second side of the tuck with a length equal to the length of the segment R 4 C.
25. Construction of the shoulder section of the shelf
From R 6 with a radius equal to the measure of the DPL, an arc is drawn. From C with a radius equal to the NPP measure, a notch is made on the first arc. At the intersection of these arcs we get the point П 3 .
R 6 P 3 \u003d measure DPL \u003d 12 cm.
CPU 3 = GMP measure = 23.5 cm.
Connect the straight line P 6 with P 3 - a shoulder section of the shelf is obtained.
26. Armhole shelves
Armhole reference point: G 4 O 2 \u003d 1/3 (G 1 P 2 - 0.5 cm) \u003d 1/3 (16.5 cm - 0.5 cm) \u003d 5.3 cm.
Set aside along the bisector of the angle G 4: G 4 O 3 \u003d 0.2 Armhole width \u003d 0.2 10.2 cm \u003d 2 cm.
Note. For a stooped figure, this segment is reduced by 0.5 cm, for a kinky figure, it is increased by 0.5 cm.
Connect the straight line P 3 with O 2, divide the segment in half and draw a perpendicular of 0.5-1 cm to the left.
Draw the armhole of the shelf through the points P 3, 0.5-1, O 2, O 3, G 5.
27. Building a waistline
Deflection at the waist along the side cut: T 8 T 9 \u003d 2 cm.
Increasing the waist line on the side: T 9 T 10 \u003d 1 cm.
If the product is detachable at the waist, then the increase is 0 cm, and the waist line of the bodice passes through T 7 T 9.
28. Draw up the side seam of the shelf with a concavity of 0.3-0.5-0.7 cm through the points G 5 T 10.
29. Hip extension: B 4 B 5 = B 1 B 2 = 1.3 cm
30. Bottom shelf width: H 2 H 3 \u003d B 3 B 5 + 1 cm
Or from point B 5 lower the vertical down and expand by the desired amount. The amount of expansion should be the same as on the back.
31. The position of the tuck on the shelf
The axis of the front tuck passes through the center of the chest.
Dart solution: T 11 T 12 \u003d 2/3 6 cm \u003d 4 cm (point 14).
The length of the tuck at the top is 3 cm below the C point, at the bottom 4-5 cm above the hips.
The tuck solution on the shelf should not exceed 3.5 cm (for dry fabric) or 4 cm (for soft fabric). If it turned out more, then a second additional tuck is introduced.
An additional tuck is placed in the middle of the segment G 6 G 5 and in its solution and length it is smaller than the main one, and then:
- solution of the main tuck: T 11 T 12 \u003d 2/3 4 cm \u003d 2.5 cm
- additional tuck solution: T 13 T 14 \u003d 1/3 4 \u003d 1.5 cm
The length of the additional tuck is 1-2 cm shorter than the main one.
In today's lesson, we will analyze the simulation fitted silhouette. The bodice of the dress is decorated with embossed seams, the neckline is decorated with a "boat" neckline. Sleeveless dress. Sun skirt.
For modeling, we will take patterns of small volume, pattern 125
Step 1. We make out the neck line. Move the waist darts closer to the side seams.
Step 2. We mark the location of the relief seams from the armhole and along the sides of the darts. We outline the waist line. On the back along the waistline, on the front we make a descent of approx. 1cm
Step 3. On the bodice of the back, draw a relief seam with a smooth line, cut the back along the line of the relief seam.
Step 4. On the front of the bodice, we transfer the chest tuck to the armhole, connect it to the end of the waist tuck. Cut along the relief line, then along the side of the tuck. We draw reliefs with a smooth line.
Step 5. On the cut off back panel, mark the dividing lines for breeding. Divide the tuck solution by the number of lines. We mark the desired length of the skirt. We part the details of the panel to a right angle. We do the same with the front panel.
Step 6. We get in cut:
1) back 2 children.
2) barrel back 2 children.
3) front barrel 2 children.
4) the central part of the front 1 child. with a fold
5) combined (combined neck and armhole facing) back facing 2 children.
6) combined front facing 1 child. with a fold
7) the back panel of the skirt 2 children.
8) the front panel of the skirt 1 child. with a fold