Master class fabric flowers.

White rose without special tools. Corrugated.

Making a flower from fabric is easy. Desire and fantasy are enough.

For this flower we need (photo 1):

Fabric (white chiffon), about 50X40cm. Press it.

Ordinary white threads

Batik paints on fabric green and yellow

Scissors, pliers (wire cutters)

PVA glue (after drying it becomes transparent), if there is a glue gun

Wire. Not too thin, thicker than a telephone line. Can be reeled off from old transformers.

Cardboard for patterns

Sharpened pencil

Corrugated paper white

Heavy gauze or a handkerchief or similar cloth

Newspapers (for drying after staining, preferably black and white)

Awl or needle

Beads or other additions at will. Pen. Veil.

We take cardboard. We need several sizes of petals, a leaf and gluing. Depending on the size of the desired flower, the number of petals can be varied. Make them larger, or vice versa. I will make 5 sizes of petals, for this we draw crosses (photo 2):

No. 1 - 3cm (length), 2.6cm (width) - 2-4pcs

No. 2 - 3.5cm X 3cm - 2-4pcs

No. 3 - 4cm X 3.6cm - 3pcs

No. 4 - 4.5cm X 4cm - 4-5pcs

No. 5 - 5cm X 4.6cm - 4-5pcs

No. 6 - leaf 4 cm X 2.8 (3) cm - 8pcs

We draw crosses with an offset middle, form petals and a leaf from No. 6 from them. Leaf teeth and gluing are cut out on the fabric after dyeing. On the patterns, we immediately mark the number of pieces and the number. When cutting out and drawing a pattern of petals, remember that the number of petals must be multiplied by the number of desired flowers, plus buds

(2pcs # 1, 2pcs # 2, 1pcs # 3). (Photo 3)

No. 7 - a circle with a diameter of about 5.5 cm for gluing

From the center of the circle we draw teeth resembling tongues of flame, about 5 pieces. The number of pieces is equal to the number of flowers plus buds. (Photo 4)

You should get these patterns. (Photo 5)

Now you can start sewing on the fabric. How to gelatinize fabric you can read separately on my website. It's simple. It is important to remember that the patterns must be placed strictly diagonally, that is, at an angle of 45 degrees. (Photo 6)

I could not resist the teeth of the leaves and cut them out right away, but they should not be glued, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work. (Photo 7)

Do not throw away small scraps, these are good samples for staining. Arrange the patterns according to size so as not to get confused.

Coloring. To give the flower a natural look, we need to shade the middle and color the leaves, gluing and later the summer. To do this, pour some water into a saucer and drip yellow paint. We try on a probe. The color should be moderately intense, as we will dilute it later. (Photo 8)

We make a test. (Photo 9)

I take the petals No. 1 with tweezers, dip one by one in the paint and put it on the newspaper. As the paint has absorbed, I transfer it to a dry place (so that it does not stick). (Photo 10)

Add some water. Let's try. Let's dip the petals # 2. Then we dilute it to a pale yellow and dip in No. 3.

We drip green into the remaining paint. To a noble pale green color, so that the composition is in one color scheme (closer to white) and does not dazzle. We repeat the procedure with leaves # 6 and glues # 7.

Pour the rest of the paint into a separate clean jar. Useful for dyeing summerones. Here's what you should get. (Photo 11)

When everything is dry, you can start cutting out the gluing and corrugating. We take gauze (or a handkerchief), fold the petal in half (photo 12), fold the gauze diagonally, in the form of a scarf, and put the petal in the place of the fold, fold to fold. (Photo 13, 14) With the palm of our left hand we press the sheet in gauze to the table, with our right hand we take the end of the gauze and move it clockwise, twisting a little mono (Photos 15, 16), but do not overdo it.

Let's see what happened. (photo 17) And so all the petals and leaves. If the leaves are too stretched after corrugation, try folding the gauze along a longitudinal thread. You can try on a piece of gelatinized fabric so as not to spoil the workpieces.

We prepare the summers in advance. How to make a description of them on my website. (Photo 19,20,21)

Now let's start assembling flowers. We take the leton, bend the tip by about 1 cm (photo 22), so that the future flower will firmly hold on it

We take the smallest petal (No. 1), wrap it around the loop, previously coated with PVA glue (photo 23) and graft the bottom with a thread or thin wire. I took the thread.

After that, alternately with a small overlap, we graft the rest No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3. (Photo 24) If this is a bud, then we will limit ourselves to this.

If a flower, continue. Only to make it natural and pliable, we curl the rest of the petals with a toothpick (photo 25,26).

If you think that fabric flowers are something from the category of children's homemade products, then you just know little about them! In this article, we will show you how stylish and cute such decor can be, and also teach you how to create this beauty with your own hands.

Where to use textile flowers?

Elegant, original and quite durable, these fabric flowers are perfect for:

• decor for clothes, shoes and bags;
• decoration of gifts, notebooks and photo albums;
• creating jewelry for hair and jewelry;
• interior decor - lampshades, cushions, blankets, curtains, paintings, wreaths, topiary, flower arrangements.

Fabric flowers for decor

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What is the best fabric for creating flowers?

Flowers can be created from a wide variety of fabrics, which makes them so diverse in style and mood.

Most often, chiffon, organza, silk, chintz are used in flower making. Original flowers are made from jeans and velvet, and from burlap and linen - surprisingly delicate!

Chiffon flowers

Chiffon is a pleasant, lightweight, flowing fabric that allows you to create stunningly realistic flowers for decorating clothes, hairstyles and compositions. Semi-transparent petals look alive - delicate and fragile. But at the same time, the fabric itself is quite durable, which makes chiffon flowers durable.

Try to create such a simple and feminine flower according to the photo instructions for beginners.

Delicate chiffon flower

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Organza flowers

Organza is very popular among needlewomen for its affordability and beauty. Especially interesting are the flowers made of rainbow organza and "chameleon", thanks to the delicate play of fabric.

But even from a plain canvas, an elegant and elegant flower can come out - for example, such a poppy.

Organza poppy

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Silk flowers

Natural, "expensive" silk is the height of the art of flower making. Silk petals shimmer, sparkle and play with colors in the rays of the sun. A thin canvas amazingly retains its shape, making the flowers delicate and "alive". Silk flowers will decorate even a bride's outfit with dignity.

How to properly prepare fabric

To make the flowers more accurate, and it was more convenient for you to work, the fabric must be properly processed.

• When working with silk, gelatin is used. To do this, pour a spoonful of gelatin with a glass of cold water and leave to swell for an hour. Then, stirring continuously, the solution is heated until the gelatin dissolves.
• For cotton fabrics and velvet, take potato starch. A tablespoon of starch is diluted in a small amount of cold water, and then, stirring constantly, pour a glass of boiling water.

The fabric must be moistened in a hot solution, wrung out slightly and dried on clothespins. Correctly prepared material rustles like paper.

Velvet must be starch so that the solution does not soak onto the front side. To do this, lubricate the wrong side with a swab. It is convenient to use a hoop when applying the solution and drying the velvet.

• it is better to use fabrics no larger than 50x30 cm;
• the thinner the fabric, the more it must be starchy;
• if the fabric is very dry, place it between two damp towels and iron;
• stamens for flowers can be made from starched threads. To give them a golden color, you can add bronze paint to the starch;
• to make the flower look more natural, make it not monochromatic. To do this, choose a fabric of several shades or dye your material. Suitable for painting are aniline paints, batik paints, ink, powder, blush, and even eye shadow. dye the fabric before starching!

Inspirational workshops for beginners and more!

We've put together a few ideas for you to create creative and vibrant fabric colors in a variety of styles that highlight the beauty of your look or interior.

Six ways to create a simple and stylish flower in 5 minutes

If you want to add originality to your outfit, decorate the gift wrapping, and maybe even make a flower panel for the interior - this video master class is for you! He will teach you how to create flowers from different fabrics and in different techniques - quickly and easily!

Roses in country style and provence

Such simple and such charming roses can be a wonderful decor for interior items and emphasize country, rustic and Provence style.

Working in the same technique, you can change the textures and colors of the fabric and, as a result, get flowers with different moods. Great for such roses - cotton fabric, jeans and, of course, burlap and lace, whose combination simply personifies the romance and tenderness characteristic of these directions.

Country style fabric roses, provence, rustic

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To create such a rose, we need:

• glue gun;
• scissors;
• fabric of your choice.

1. We cut the fabric into strips 5 cm wide and half a meter long (length and width may vary depending on the size of the flower you need).

2. Fold the strip in half and grease the end with glue (slide the strip a little more than a centimeter to fix the middle of the rose).

3. Form the middle. To do this, fold the end of the fabric greased with glue into a small but dense roll.

4. We continue to twist the strip, but with the petals - bend the tape obliquely outward and continue to wrap.

Try to have about 5 folds per layer of petals. Fix the fabric with glue periodically.

The type of flower depends on the number of folds of the fabric -

it can be neat or intentionally sloppy.

5. When your rose reaches the desired size, wrap the remaining end of the tape and glue to the back.

6. Make a few more of these flowers of different sizes and shades and arrange them in the composition.

Tilde-style tulips

Among the huge variety of fabric flowers, the tilde-style flowers are probably the cutest and most delicate in spring. Soft, bright, cozy, they will decorate your home and cheer you up even in gloomy autumn.

Tilda-style fabric flowers

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Tilde tulips are especially popular. Their juicy buds allow you to make charming bouquets that you just want to smell and snuggle to yourself. And most importantly, it's so easy to sew them yourself!

We need:

• fabric - green for leaves and stems and colored for buds. The fabric is essential for tilde colors. Against the background of the simplest patterns, it is the fabric that creates the style and mood of the composition. Give preference to natural materials - cotton, linen, bike. But the colors can be very different - polka dots, checkered, flower, the warmest and rainbow shades.
• filler - cotton wool, synthetic winterizer, foam rubber;
• bamboo stick or stalk wire;
• thread, needle, scissors, pencil.

1. Let's prepare the details for the patterns.

2. Sew the parts with the right side inward.

3. Turn out and iron all the details.

4. We stuff the buds and stem, after inserting a wire or a bamboo stick into it.

5. Sew the bud with small stitches, slightly stepping back from the edge. Pull off the thread, turning the edges inward.

6. Insert the stem into the hole of the bud and tighten the thread tightly. We sew the stem and bud with a blind seam, fix it with several through stitches for reliability.

7. Sew up the hole in the sheet and sew the sheet to the stem. You can use a glue gun instead of thread.

8. One flower is ready. Make a few more of these tulips and make a cute and cozy interior bouquet.

9. That's what beauty you can get!

Peony in the style of shabby chic - graceful, gentle, simple!

Shabby chic is the very embodiment of tenderness and romance. Therefore, it is the flowers that can best emphasize this style.

Unlike tilde colors, for this direction it is better to use artificial fabric that you can process over a flame. Organza or satin will look impressive and sophisticated, while working with them will be quick and easy.

Fabric peonies for decoration

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1. Prepare everything you need.

2. Cut 5 circles out of the fabric: 4 parts with a diameter of 10 cm and 1 part with a diameter of 8 cm.

3. Continuously rotating, process the edges of each part over the candle flame.

4. Now we carefully make cuts on the blanks along the dotted lines, leaving the middle intact.

5. The cut lines are melted again.

6. Cut two large blanks (these will be the middle layers of the petals) again according to the scheme and process new edges above the fire.

7. Making the stamens. To do this, wind the thread tightly around two fingers. Drag the middle and cut the loops. It turns out a small pompom.

8. Now we collect the flower. We put it in a pile - two large blanks with four petals, then two blanks with eight petals and at the end the smallest blank.

9. Finally, we sew our stamens into the middle, at the same time stitching together all the details of the flower.

The adorable peony is ready!

Beautiful, delicate and varied fabric flowers delight and inspire! Create this beauty with your own hands and surround yourself with warmth and comfort with GretaHome!

Do you have a free evening and some scraps of satin, chiffon, linen, jeans or organza? We offer you to learn how to make flowers from fabric with your own hands! Following our master classes, you will master the art of flower making, which will give you the opportunity to independently:

• Wrapping gifts beautifully;
• Renew home furnishings such as lamp shades, curtains or pillow covers;
• Transform clothes, bags, shoes;
• Make accessories for interior decoration, for example, artificial flowers, wreaths,;
• Making hair ornaments (hairpins, headbands, etc.);
• Make jewelry: brooches, rings, earrings, necklaces;
• Decorate table setting and decorate any holidays, for example, birthdays and even weddings;
• Make presentations for teachers and child carers;
• Make exclusive gifts for loved ones;
• Design diaries, covers, albums and notebooks.

In addition to step-by-step instructions for beginners, here you will find a selection of photos for inspiration, as well as helpful videos.

Master class 1. Simple roses from fabric in country style

If you like rustic or rustic, then this master class is for you. Below are examples of work that you can do by mastering the technique of rolling fabric roses.

You will need:

• The cloth;
• Scissors;
• Hot glue gun.

How to make a rose from fabric:

Step 1. Cut the fabric into ribbons. To create one rose, you need one strip 50-70 cm long and about 3-5 cm wide. However, you can choose other sizes if you want to make the rose larger or smaller than in this project.

Step 2. Fold your strip in half and drip a 1/2-inch bead of glue onto the tip (see right photo above).

Step 3. Begin to roll the strip into a roll in several turns.

Step 4. When the roll becomes dense and strong enough, start forming the first "petals": fold the ribbon obliquely outward as shown in the top photo on the right and wrap the center of the rose.

Step 5. Continue forming the petals in the same order: fold the tape obliquely to the outside - wrap the workpiece - fold the tape obliquely to the outside - wrap the workpiece - etc. One row of petals should have about 3-5 folds of the tape. From time to time, layers of fabric need to be fixed with hot glue. As a result, you should have a rose similar to the one in these photos.

Experiment with the number of folds of the flower and the density of the fold of the fabric to achieve a more casual or neat look of your flower.

Step 6. Once the rose reaches the desired diameter, lower the remaining tail of the tape down and glue it to the base.

In this project, the back of the craft was covered with the remaining tail of the fabric.

Step 8. Make the number of flowers you need in different sizes - small, medium and large.

This video presents a master class on how to make roses out of denim with your own hands.

Master class 2. Artificial flowers from satin fabric or organza

Looking at these flowers made of satin fabric, it seems that they were created by a real master of flower making, but in fact, even a beginner can make the same realistic peonies / roses.

You will need:

• Candle;
• Satin, silk, chiffon or organza made from 100% polyester. For the manufacture of peonies, white and pink matter (all shades) is suitable;
• Scissors;
• Yellow floss threads (for stamens);
• Needle.

Instructions:

Step 1. Cut 5 circles out of the fabric: 4 circles with a diameter of 8-10 cm and 1 circle with a diameter of about 5-8 cm. You can cut it roughly and by eye, any inaccuracies and irregularities do not matter.

Step 2. Light a candle and start processing the first round workpiece: carefully bring its edge close to the flame and start rotating around its axis so that all the edges of the circle are melted and twisted. Be careful, keep a glass of water ready, and most importantly, do not bring the workpiece too close to the fire. Be aware that if you overdo it, the edges will turn black, which is not always desirable. However, sometimes it is the blackened edges that give the homemade colors realism or originality. Repeat this process with all remaining circles.

Step 3. Now, using scissors, make 4 cuts on each workpiece as shown in the diagram and photo below. The main thing here is to leave the center of the circle intact.

Step 4. Let's go back to working with a candle. This time, we melt the just obtained cuts, pushing the sections apart with both hands. Repeat the process with all five petals.

Step 5. Set the 2 large and 1 smallest pieces aside. We will return to them later, but for now let's deal with the 2 remaining blanks, that is, the middle layers of the peony petals. They need to be cut again according to the following scheme.

As a result, there will be twice as many petals.

Step 6. Burn the new cuts with a candle and set the blanks aside.

Step 7. Now is the time to make the peony stamens in the form of a small pom-pom from yellow floss threads. For this:

• Wind a whole thread of floss tightly around your folded index and middle fingers. You should have about 8 turns.
• Now tie tightly with the same yellow thread the middle of the resulting skein (between two fingers).
• Cut two loops, straighten the threads and trim the pompom if necessary.

Step 8. Let's start assembling the flower. Fold on top of each other two large blanks that have only 4 petals, then put two blanks with 8 petals on them and, finally, complement the bud with the smallest blank with 4 petals.

Step 9. Hooray, the flower is almost ready! It remains only to sew a yellow pompom to its center, while simultaneously sewing all 5 layers of petals together.

If desired, glue / sew on the back of the bud the necessary accessories, for example, a pin, to make a brooch out of a flower.

By changing the shape, color, size of the petals, their number and the principle of gluing, you can make not only peonies and roses, but also poppies (pictured), ranunculus, lilies and tulips.

And here is an example of flowers made by their organza.

Master class 3. Ruffle flower in 5 minutes

Don't have glue, but have a needle and thread? Or do you suddenly need to make flowers from fabric as quickly as possible? Then we are in a hurry to acquaint you with the technique of making flowers from frills.

You will need:

• The cloth;
• Scissors;
• A needle with a thread to match the fabric;
• Iron (optional)

Step 1. Cut the fabric into strips about 30 cm long and about 7-8 cm wide. You can choose other sizes to make the flowers smaller or larger.

Step 2. Fold the strip in half lengthways and iron the fold.

Step 3. Baste the workpiece with wide stitches at the bottom as shown in the photo below.

Step 4. Assemble the workpiece into an accordion, slowly pulling the thread. Do not pull on the thread too hard or it will break.

Step 5. Close the circle by joining the two ends of the ribbon and making a few stitches (tie a knot on the back).

Step 6. Glue / sew on beads, rhinestones or buttons in the center of the flower. Done!

This method can be changed slightly if you want to make a more layered flower with raw cuts, for example, from linen or jeans. Cut out a wide, long strip of fabric, sweep it in the middle from start to finish, accord it up, roll one edge of the strip into a roll, and then start rolling the ribbon around it. Periodically, layers of fabric need to be fixed with glue or stitches. Below in the photo slider is a master class in pictures on making a flower from flax (scroll the photo to the right).

If you have a long fabric, you can make a large diameter flower, for example, to decorate a pillow cover. To gather such a long ribbon, the easiest way is to use a sewing machine.

To make such large flowers, you need strips of fabric with a length of 2.5-3 m

These potted flowers are made from old cotton T-shirts.

Master class 4. Volumetric pompom flower

This master class is good in cases where you need a fabric flower to be voluminous and lush.

You will need:

• Any soft fabric of the desired color;
• Hot glue gun;
• Scissors;
• Felt.

Instructions:

Step 1. Cut out from the fabric about 20-30 circles with a diameter of about 4 cm. All these circles will become petals. You can cut blanks by eye, the correctness of the shape does not matter.

• To cut multiple circles at once, simply fold the fabric 3-4 times.

Step 2. Now cut out a circle of felt about 4 cm in diameter. This circle will become the base of your flower.

Step 3. Take one of your petal circles and fold it to form a bag like in the photo below.

Step 4. Glue your blank with the tip to the center of the felt base.

Step 5. Continue to glue your blanks one by one to the felt base until it is completely covered with petals. Voila! The flower is ready!

If you wish, you can make the flower not lush, but flat and supplement it with bead stamens. To do this, fold the petals as follows: bend the circle in half, then bend the right and left parts of the resulting semicircle to its center to make a quarter. Next, you just have to glue the petals in a circle on the felt base, and then sew / glue the beads into the center.

And a few more ideas that you can implement by following our master class.

And finally, we suggest watching another video master class on how to make flowers from fabric with your own hands.

In nature, there are several types of poppy, but more often than others, oriental poppy is made for decorative bouquets: a large bright orange-red color with a black spot at the base of the petal (there is also a pink form). Other poppies are smaller: field poppy (scarlet, red, dark red), garden poppy, often double, in shape resembling a peony (from white to dark purple, except for yellow and blue). The color of the stem and leaves of these poppies is bluish-green. The alpine poppy has white, yellow and orange flowers. But all these poppies can be made one pattern at a time, only by reducing or increasing the details.

Batiste is primarily suitable for making petals, but you can also make them from plain red chintz, scarlet crepe de Chine or non-shiny silk, such as toile. White fabrics are dyed with red aniline dye. At worst, the petals can be painted with red ink. The fabric for the poppy flower should not be too starched to prevent the petals from getting rough.

For the corolla, two double petals are first cut obliquely. If you don't have much fabric, you can also cut out four single petals.

They need to be painted while still wet. The color of the petal should be even, without spots and stretch marks, although in the field poppy the very edge (1–1.5 mm) may have a darker shade. After drying at the base of each petal, gently use a brush or cotton swab to make a black-purple speck about 1/5 of the petal size, for which use black aniline dye or ordinary ink.

After drying, the petals are corrugated:

You can do this with tweezers - from the center to the edge.

You can draw lines on the petals with a hot single cutter (it is better to work on hard rubber). Corrugation begins with the central vein, which is carried out from the spot to the edge, then in the middle of each half of the petal is carried out along the vein-groove. This is important because the corrugation on the petal must be uniform.

You can wrap the petal in gauze and crimp it with your hands (fold it into pleating).

Then the petals are straightened and a bulge is squeezed out on the front side of the petal in the area of \u200b\u200bthe black spot with a large bulka. They do it on soft rubber. The edges of the petal can also be treated with a bulka, but already small, alternately on each side of the petal.

Then the petal is spread with your hands, slightly bending the edge outward.

The core of the poppy is very distinctive and therefore worth paying attention to. Wool soaked in PVA glue is wound on the wire, pre-painted in a bluish-green color and dried. A ball with a diameter of 0.8-1 cm is formed from cotton wool.

Two ways to form a ball

You can cover a cotton ball with a square of green tissue paper, which is also tied with a thread and twisted under the top.

At the same time, the ball is tied along a thread of the same color to mark the ribs on it. Make no more than six ribs.

When the ball dries, it is additionally coated with glue so that its surface is smooth and slightly shiny.

A hexagonal crown made of green fabric is glued to the top of the ball. The cut out crown should first be pushed in with a small bulka so that it has a semicircular shape. On each scallop of the crown, a groove can be made from the center with a single cutter.

In the oriental poppy, the stamens are thick, black-purple, with blue anthers, and they can be made from black carbon paper, black silk thread or simple spool thread (No. 10), but then additionally tint them with black or purple ink.

The length of the stamens is twice the height of the capsule (a supply of filament is needed to screw the stamens to the stem). To make anthers, the ends of the threads are coated with glue and dipped in semolina, previously painted in a bluish-lilac color. For other poppies, semolina should be white, yellow or greenish yellow. When the stamens dry out, they are neatly and evenly glued to the box in a circle, and the lower end is wrapped around the stem.

When the stamens and the capsule are dry, petals are put on the stem - a wire 20–25 cm long. If you made paired petals, then pierce them in the center and put them on the stem, smearing them with glue in the center. If you are assembling a corolla from four single petals, then put them on the stem, placing them crosswise and also smearing them in the center with glue. Hold the flower head down when assembling.

Since the poppy does not have a calyx, it is possible to create a thickening from green threads on the stem under the rim, on which the rim petals will also rest. When wrapping the stem with green tissue paper, you can leave a paper tip of 0.5 mm, which you can split a little and glue to the rim.

The poppy has sparse hairs on the stem, they are made from green-dyed short cut wool. You can also use thinly plucked cotton wool.

The lower leaves of the poppy are pinnate-lobed with large denticles along the edges. The upper leaves are not so much indented. The leaves are cut from a bluish-green fabric and crimped on both sides with a single cutter on hard rubber. To give them a curvature, a thin wire wrapped in yellow-green tissue paper is glued to the inside of the large leaves.

Poppy buds are very distinctive and expressive. They are made in the same way as the core, but made more elongated and large. A green cotton cocoon is wound around the wire and coated with glue. To create a hairy effect, sprinkle it with chopped wool and let the glue dry. Then the top of the cocoon is cut 1.5-2 cm with a razor or scalpel, the cut is lubricated with glue and a corrugated piece of one or two petals is inserted into it (they can be made from scraps of the main petals).

The stem of the bud is made in the same way as the stem of the main flower. First small, then larger leaves are attached to it.

Often a poppy has flowers, buds, and mature poppies on one stem. You can make a beautiful bouquet and just from some poppies and place flowers among them here and there - also beautiful.

Mature poppies are made in the same way as the core, that is, they form a ball of cotton wool on glue, but its size should be larger than the core of the flower - 2–3 cm in diameter. The boxes can be larger, but here it is very important to maintain harmony between the poppy and the stem. The ball is tied with threads. After the glue has dried, the top is coated with hot wax, painted gray-green, or paraffin from a green candle. While the wax is still hot, smoothen it with your finger so that the top is even. A corrugated and waxed crown is glued to the crown.

The stem with a mature capsule is smooth, not fuzzy, so it is wrapped with gray-green paper on glue, allowed to dry and also covered with wax. Leaves on stems with mature poppies are not needed.

As a rule, when it comes to making artificial flowers, for some reason everyone tries to start with chamomile. But this seemingly simple flower requires painstaking work and skill, and it takes a lot of work to make it look like a real chamomile. Daisies are made from thick cotton or silk fabric.

White field chamomile

Chamomile whisk can be made in two ways.

The first way... Corolla petals are cut from two circles of starched material. Each circle is sequentially folded four times and notched in the middle, each quarter is also notched in the middle. The boundaries between the petals in the circle are cut 2/3 of the length. It turns out 16 petals. The edge of each petal is rounded off and one or two small teeth are cut out on the rounding. A hole is made in the center of the circles with an awl. Each petal is corrugated on a hard rubber pad with a double-row cutter. A line is drawn from the edge to the center.

Second way.The chamomile flower is collected from individual petals. (Fortune-telling about the betrothed, but vice versa!) If you carefully and patiently complete the task, then reliability will be achieved. The fact is that living chamomile does not have even and geometrically located petals. As a rule, 10–15 petals are arranged so that some petals overlap each other, and there is a different distance between them, some petal is bent down and so on.

First, try to make a larger chamomile with petals 4–5 cm. Ruffle each petal cut from starched fabric and glue it to the bottom of the core. Then glue the cup to the completed row, which will finally fix the petals. In this case, on the cup between the teeth, it is worth making a corrugation with a single cutter.

To make a cup, a circle with a diameter of 1/3 of the rim diameter is cut out of green starched satin, chintz or viscose. Having folded it four times and again four times, cut out the cloves, preferably uniform.

You can make teeth with nail scissors without folding the fabric. It is important that there are 10 to 16 cloves.

A hole is pierced in the middle of the cup. On a soft pillow, the cup is treated with a small bulka on the seamy side of the green fabric to give it a convex shape.

The core for the chamomile must be made bright and "similar". The core is attached to a thin wire 20–25 cm long. There are several ways to make it.

The core can be made from bright yellow cotton wool. The yellow colored cotton wool is rolled up a little by hands into a dense cloth and twisted with wire in the middle. Then they make a cake, which is trimmed and rounded with scissors. The resulting base is greased with glue and dipped in yellow-dyed semolina. At the edges, the core is tinted in a darker yellow or orange color.

You can glue a piece of round bright yellow gauze or fabric with a clear weave structure on a cotton base.

You can make the middle of yellow threads - floss, iris. The threads are often (40-100 turns) wound on two pencils, to which a wire is applied - the future stem of a chamomile. The wire is folded over and twisted with the other end of the wire. Then the threads are removed from the pencil, cut in the middle and lifted up. The wire is twisted with pliers. The threads are cut short (shorter towards the edges to create the effect of a convex middle), dipped in glue, and then in yellow semolina.

You can gently wind a string of iris or floss on a cotton base, greased with glue.

Chamomile leaves are small, with rounded teeth.

The lower the leaf is located along the stem, the larger it should be. Therefore, it is advisable to cut leaves in two sizes. The leaves are made from the same green cloth used for the calyx. A thin wire is glued to the large lower leaves, previously wrapped in a light green cloth or tissue paper. The winding should exceed the length of the petiole by 7–10 mm, so that it is convenient to attach the leaf to the stem and so that it can cover the place of attachment.

The leaves are corrugated on the front side on a rigid pillow: with a single incisor - lateral veins in large and central in small leaves, two-row - in a central vein.

When assembling a flower on a stem with a core already attached, first put on the first row of petals from below through the stem and glue it from below to the core. Then the second row of petals is put on the wire so that the petals of the second row are in the gaps between the petals of the first. The wire is coated with glue and wrapped with a light green cloth or a green paper strip, the end of which is carefully glued from bottom to middle. Then they put on a cup and glue it to the petals. In order for the chamomile to have a neat appearance, you need to carefully coat each clove of the cup with PVA glue and press it against the petals. Then leaves are planted on the stem.

In general, field chamomile is a single flower, but you can also make an inflorescence of three to five flowers and buds. Then they choose the main wire-stem with the largest daisy at the end and other wires with flowers are screwed to this stem so that all the flowers are on the same level. The attachment points are hidden under large leaves.

If you want to make buds or drop flowers, then cut out one circle with small petals and glue it in one row to the middle. Squeeze the petals with your hands around the middle (they should stick out above it) and glue the cup from below.

Colored daisies

In addition to white, there are yellow, pink, crimson daisies with yellow centers, as well as varieties of daisies: silvery (venidium) and brown-orange with a black center, variegated (Gaillardia). And all of them can be done according to the above scheme, you just need to choose the right material and convey the outline of the petals as accurately as possible. Colored daisies near the petals need to paint the tips more intensively, and for some, make a bright orange or yellow spot at the point of attachment to the middle. This is done with a brush over a slightly damp cloth.

This flower is made by analogy with chamomile, but only one row of larger petals (8-10 pieces) of white, pink, lilac, burgundy is used. The center of the circle with petals is treated with a bulka, and the petals are corrugated with a three-row incisor on the front side. The stamens are made from yellow threads, and they protrude more above the petals than the stamens of chamomile.

The calyx of the cosmos is serrated, the stem is thin and graceful.

Making cosme leaves presents some difficulty. They are thin, pinnately dissected, and are cut from the tightly starched tissue with nail scissors.

This very decorative flower - white-green, yellow, fawn, scarlet, dark red - also looks like a chamomile, but it has more petals, no less than 40, and they are longer and narrower.

Gerbera petals are colored only on one, inner side, on the back they are silvery-green. They are made of satin or satin. Imported colored satin is often painted only on the front side, which can be used in work.

If the corolla is collected from individual petals, then they are cut out obliquely. If the satin is patterned, then the pattern is laid out on pieces of fabric of the desired color between the pattern. Petals made of white fabric are dyed by hand on dry fabric with gouache or aniline, and white is used for the wrong side.

The petals are crimped with a double-row cutter from the inside out. Circles with petals in the center on the front side are pushed with a bulka on soft rubber, the ends of the petals are processed from the inside so that they bend outward. The middle is the same as that of chamomile, but the gerbera does not have a cup, so the petals are attached to the stem: they are carefully glued with a piece of twine on the stem, which is made of thinly plucked cotton wool. The stem should be light lettuce, flexible, full and slightly woolly.

The gerbera has no leaves on the stem, it is just a large flower with a long stem.

Field cornflower

Common field cornflowers are bright blue, but garden forms can be white, pink, lilac, and dark purple. For an artificial bouquet, simple recognizable cornflowers are suitable, which can be made from smooth bright blue crepe de Chine, cambric or staple, or you can specially dye white fabric.

The cornflower flower has a center consisting of densely planted dark blue stamens with white tips, and bordering serrated funnel-shaped petals (7-9 pieces) of a lighter and brighter blue color.

The marginal flowers are small, so it is better to cut them out in the form of two identical toothed corollas. At the upper corolla, each petal is corrugated with a small bulka from the seamy side, and each clove is bent upward by hand. The second rim is also processed, but it is blasted on the front side and the cloves are bent down.

First, the stamens are attached to the wire, which are cut short and their tips are dipped in light paint. The first rim is put on the wire, face down, wrong side up. Then put on the second rim seamy down and combine it with the first. The narrow part of the corollas is greased with glue and gently pressed together with tweezers.

The cup is strung on a wire-stem, after a corolla with stamens is attached to it. Under the corolla, the cornflower has a large oval cup. It is made of gray-green cotton wool with brown blotches, preferably cloves-like. You can make cloves from a brown thread, which is glued in a zigzag pattern to a cotton base.

Some publications suggest taking a cup from a live cornflower, drying it and then, gently steaming it, use it to make an artificial flower. But this is a bad idea. Firstly, it is quite difficult to "reanimate" the dried cup, and secondly, in order to avoid bad taste in the manufacture of artificial flowers, it is advisable to use only homogeneous materials.

In general, natural leaves, cones, dried twigs do not go well with fabric, cotton wool and threads. Such a bouquet will look unprofessional. Making bouquets from natural plant materials is another art form.

Cornflower leaves are thin, lanceolate, in a small rare clove. Wire is not glued to them, only in the center they are processed with a single cutter.

The leaves are attached to the stem at a distance of 5–6 cm from each other in the next order.

Musky cornflower

The musky cornflower (garden form) differs from the simple one in its larger size and very thinly cut terry edge flowers. It can also be yellow.

You can make marginal flowers from threads. Fold 10-12 identical loops from a thin thread of colored iris. It is convenient to do this on a clove.

After removing the threads from the carnation, starch them (you can use PVA glue). Sharpen the tips while still wet with starch with your fingers or tweezers.

Treat dry bundles of thread with a bulka, just like the petals of an ordinary cornflower, and attach to the wire around the stamens. Put the "tails" of the thread into a cup. An additional decorative effect can be provided by the use of yellow, pink, burgundy Chinese floss threads, dyed with a stretch of tone: from light to dark.

Bell

The bell is made from crepe de Chine or thin lilac-blue silk. But bells of several colors will look more interesting in the bouquet: white, blue, lilac, purple.

The rim is corrugated with a single cutter on soft rubber. The end of each petal is treated with a bulka so that the petal bends outward. Then the whisk is glued and put on a wire with a pestle with three white curls of thread. A small cotton ball is wound on a wire under the whisk. Due to the rounded shape of the rim, handling the bell requires care and patience.

The cup is treated with a bulka and a single cutter, after which it is glued to the whisk so that the cotton ball is in the cup.

The bell leaves are narrow. They are processed with a single cutter.

Three flowers, a couple of buds and three leaves are placed on a branch.

Forget-me-nots

Making a small bouquet of forget-me-nots is a difficult and painstaking task. But nothing is impossible in it.

For flowers, choose blue cambric (cobalt with whitewash) or paint the fabric with aniline in a light blue color. Make a few flowers in a pale pink color.

Flowers of five petals are easier to make by cutting, but you can also cut them out of starched fabric with nail scissors. The rim size should not exceed 8-10 mm in diameter. Corollas are processed in the middle from the front side with the smallest hot bulka. Each whisk is mounted on a short (4–7 cm) thin wire.

At the corolla of the forget-me-not, the middle is white or with yellow spots. The stamens are very small - 2 mm, with white tips. You can not do small stamens at all (since this is a very laborious work), but make a small cone with five teeth out of paper or thin fabric. The rim is put on a cone fixed on a wire, and the cloves are folded back and glued to the rim so that the clove falls in the middle of the petal.

The flower cup is cut out of green fabric and glued to the bottom of the corolla.

The wire is pasted over with green tissue paper. One or two small - 1 cm - leaflets are glued onto it. The leaves are corrugated with a single incisor.

The flower blanks are attached to the main stem, and the attachment point is hidden under the leaf. Flowers on short wires are mounted at the top of the stem, on longer ones at the bottom. This is how a harmonious inflorescence is formed.

Blue linen

The corolla of blue flax is larger than that of forget-me-nots, and it is attached to a longer stem - 10–15 cm. The stamens do not stick out to the sides, but gather in a bunch.

Corolla 1.5–2 cm in diameter is collected from five petals, which are processed with a small bulka at the base and from the inside along the edges of the petal. You can cut out the petals immediately in a circle, which then folds into a cone.

The petals are corrugated with a single cutter and glued in such a way that each edge goes beyond the previous one. A cup is glued from below.

The flax flower is not flat, but funnel-shaped. The leaf is thin, with a sharp tip. The inflorescence is formed in the same way as the inflorescence of forget-me-nots.

Garden flax is larger than field flax and can be dark red (crimson), blue with white and pink and white.

Rosehip

To make a decorative rose hip branch, you will need fabrics such as cambric, crepe de Chine or fine silk for flowers and a dense satin for the leaves. The color of flowers can be from whitish to dark pink. In the south of our country, yellow rose hips are found.

The corolla has five petals. For small flowers, you can cut out a whole five-petal corolla; large flowers are best collected from separately cut petals.

A corolla or petals are cut out of white material and slightly moistened. A feature of the color of rosehip petals is a thin stretch of color - from the dark edge to the light slightly yellow-green middle. Pink paint is applied with a brush or the top edges of the petals are dipped into the diluted dye. The base of the petal is left white and, after the base color has dried, light strokes of yellow-green paint are applied to it. On the upper edge, an even darker tone of pink is applied with a brush.

The dried petal blank is crimped in the center with a bulka on soft rubber, and the edge of the petal, to give it a bent shape, is wrapped on a match or bent with tweezers.

The middle of the flower is bright yellow, with short stamens. To make it, a small (0.5 cm) ball of yellow cotton wool is wound on a wire; for plausibility, it can be wrapped with any yellow woven fabric. Stamens are located around the center, which are also attached to the wire. They can be made from starched yellow silk or plain threads. The tips of the stamens are dipped in yellow-colored semolina.

The corolla or individual petals are glued to the middle, and then the cup is glued from below. The rosehip flower has a characteristic calyx: it has five serrated leaves and a thickening - the future fruit. The scalloped petals of the calyx are cut out of a dense fabric, such as chintz, brown-red or green, and crimped with a single cutter.

The thickening is made of green cotton wool, wound on a wire (similar to a poppy box, but more elongated), and leaving five cotton threads, which are glued from below to the cup. The cotton swab, like the entire stem, must be lubricated with wax or paraffin.

Leaves are cut out of green or green-brown material, glued with the underside on a wire and veins are corrugated on leaf blades. Five prepared leaves are collected into one composite leaf, which is attached to the stem.

The bud is made of green cotton wool, to which a feathery cup is glued. The petals of the calyx are closed over two pink petals twisted into a cone. Petals are attached to the wire with glue and threads, then a cup is put on, and a cotton thickening is made under it. The thickening is then covered with wax.

The stem is made from soft wire to which flowers and harvested composite leaves are attached. At the junction, jagged paper is glued. The stem is also wrapped in brown or green paper. Spikes are made from paper or cloth. The finished stem can be coated with furniture varnish.

Double rose hips

On the basis of a rosehip pattern, you can also make a double flower shape. To do this, you just need to add more petals, cutting out 10-13 circles. The central petals are cut out smaller. Each next circle of petals is positioned so that it is between the petals of the previous one. The petals are fastened with threads and glue for strength. You can paint the outer petals in a more intense color, and make the central ones lighter.

The tea rose is a very popular flower. There are many different colors of roses: from white to black, yellow, green, scarlet and pink, and now even bluish flowers. And within the same color, a rose can have thin stretch marks of color, light or dark stripes along the edge. But, of course, for an artificial bouquet it is better to make flowers that are more orthodox and recognizable in color and shape.

A tea rose differs from a terry rose hip in that its corolla is more closed and elongated, and the petals are larger and their ends are sharply curled.

The petals are cut out in several sizes on average in the amount of 12-15 pieces (more or less).

The petals of a rose are colored unevenly, therefore, when coloring them, you should try to make tonal transitions from a dark color in the core of the flower to light outer petals, or, conversely, from a light core to dark edges. The petals are painted in several steps. For example, the extreme petals are dipped in a pink dye strongly diluted with water and alcohol, then pink paint is added to the solution and the middle petals are dipped into it. For the core, they take undiluted liquid pink aniline dye, and sometimes a few drops of burgundy are added to it. Along the very edge of the wet petals, apply a darker shade with a brush and allow the paint to flow smoothly into the petal (here you will need a cotton swab to avoid a sharp border between the color).

The bottom of the petal is not stained - it is left white or tinted yellow.

The cup is cut out of green satin, the edges are tinted with reddish-brown paint. On the sepals at the calyx, three veins are drawn from the front side with a single incisor, and the center is blasted with a small bulka.

For a bud, the middle petals are tightly twisted into a cone. Under it, a cotton ball is attached on a wire, on which a cup is put on. The teeth of the cup are glued to the bud, the very ends are slightly bent outward.

A rose leaf is collected from three to five leaves rounded into a small clove. The upper, larger leaf and two or four smaller lateral leaves are cut out of green satin. The top sheet is glued onto a long - 10-15 cm - wire, to which the lateral leaves are then attached, glued to thin wires.

The leaves are corrugated with a double-row incisor along the central vein, and frequent lateral veins are made with a single incisor (all on the front side). Then the side leaves are attached to the main wire, which is pasted over with paper or cloth. The leaf collected in this way is attached to the stem with a flower, masking the place of attachment with a triangular piece of tissue (stipule).

The corolla is collected as follows. A small cotton ball is attached to the end of the wire, onto which a tightly twisted cone of the middle petals is put on. Other petals are glued to the middle in a spiral clockwise direction, tightly pressing them to the previous row. All petals are grabbed with an additional thread so that they do not fall apart. Several extreme (large) petals are smeared with glue at three points: along the edges and along the central vein. Then they put on and glue the cup, and a small cotton ball is attached underneath it.

There are several varieties of lilies in very different colors. But the flower can be made one pattern at a time. True, different types of lilies will require different materials.

White Lily

White lilies are best made from dense, shiny white silk or satin. Petals 10-15 cm long are cut along an oblique thread. Three larger petals make up the first inner row, and three narrow petals are attached in between the first three, closing the gaps.

A thin wire pasted over with thin white or greenish silk is glued to the petals from the seamy side. (You can use tissue paper, cotton cloth, or cotton wool, but this is worse.) The wire should be longer than the lower end of the petal so that you can use it to attach the petal to the stem.

A smear of green-yellow paint is applied to the petals on a damp cloth from the wrong side in the center with a brush, and when it dries, a little burgundy pigment is rubbed with a dry bristle brush according to the applied color. If you do not have dry aniline dye, then you can proceed in the old fashioned way: remove the lead from a colored pencil (preferably two or three colors: pink, burgundy, red-brown) and grind it into a fine powder. It is better to apply the rubbed lead to the fabric not with a brush, but with a cotton swab screwed onto a thin stick. The inner part of the flower is not stained, only yellow strokes are applied with a thin brush in the very center. Each petal is processed on the front (inner) side with a double-row incisor along the central vein, corrugated with a single incisor on a soft pillow along the edge and slightly wrap the tips of the petals back.

Lilies naturally have six stamens and a pistil. But so that the corolla does not look bulky, you can only make three stamens and a pistil. The stamens are made from thin wire entwined with silk, pale green or yellow cloth or tissue paper. To make a boot, the end of a wire about 1 cm long is bent with the letter T and wrapped with cotton wool. Then it is painted bright yellow or dipped in semolina of this color. The pestle is wrapped in light green paper, and the tip of the winding is split into three tails. You can also make a round pistil tip. To make stamens and pistils, you can take a white cotton rope 2 mm in diameter and glue it with PVA glue, but it will hold its shape worse.

The lily's leaves are shiny and are made from green satin, satin, or dense silk. The leaves are highly starchy and are either treated with a single incisor on the front side - a central vein is drawn, or a wire wrapped in green silk is glued and corrugated with a double-row incisor on the front side.

Collect the lily like this. On a wire 30–40 cm long, neatly wrapped with cotton wool, the stamens and pistil are first attached. Then the petals are screwed on: three internal ones - near the pistil and a little further along the stem - three external ones, folding them like a funnel. Then the stem is bent and wrapped with green cloth or paper.

Since the lily does not have a cup, the wire at the petals is hidden with a piece of cloth or paper, a small supply of which is left on the stem. It is important that no thickening forms on the stem. The petals of the flower are bent outward by hands and the top of the petal is gently ironed to the middle with an iron. Leaves are planted on the stem at a distance of 5–6 cm from each other.

A small fold is made at the base of each leaf, at the point of attachment to the stem. They also give the leaves a bent shape with their hands.

The buds are collected from light green colored four to five narrow petals, without gluing a wire to them. On top of the stem, buds are first attached, and under them - open flowers.

Tiger (standard) lily

The tiger lily has six petals too, but they are all the same. For a tiger lily, bright orange, fiery red or orange-red materials are suitable: silk, satin, satin, you can also use panne. From the outside, the petals are tinted with light green paint with whitewash, small black-brown spots are applied to the inside with ink. From the inside out, a wire covered with a light green fabric is attached to them. From the front side of the petal, a vein is drawn along the wire with a double-row cutter.

The stamens are made in the same way as for the white lily, but the wire is wrapped in brown or red-brown paper or cloth. The anthers at the ends of the stamens are also made dark brown. You can glue pieces of black or brown velvet onto them.

The flowers of the tiger lily are down, and the petals are turned outward. The leaves are narrow, slightly bent.

Tulips are made of silk or cambric. The color of the flower can be anything except blue, light blue and bright green (the pale green color of the tulip already exists). At the base of the petal, the color is always lighter, with some flowers the bottom is yellow. Red (early) tulips often have a black spot at the base.

The tulip has six petals, and they are made and attached to the stem in the same way as a white lily. Some difference lies in the fact that the three petals of the inner row are slightly bent inward, and the three petals of the outer row are bent outward.

In addition to processing the petals with a double-row incisor along the central vein, they are processed with a hot bulka in the lower part to give them a convex shape.

The tulip pistil has a pronounced division of the tip into three folds. It can be made from three thin wires woven together and wrapped in greenish tissue paper. You can attach three thin strips of leather (no more than 8 mm in length) to the end of the wire.

The stem of the tulip is fleshy, so it is advisable to first wrap the wire with a thin layer of cotton wool, and then glue green paper or fabric onto it.

Tulip leaves (two leaves per flower) are large - 10-25 cm, bluish-green. When staining them in green paint, it is imperative to add blue or blue, and if you paint them with a brush and by hand, then whitewash.

The leaves are corrugated along the central vein with a double-row incisor, along the edges (along the length) - single and ironed from the inside with a crochet or small bulka. The leaves are attached at the bottom of the stem.

The petals of white daffodils are best made of thick silk, and for the core (crown) you can take crepe de Chine, orange or yellow silk. You can dye white silk with aniline in the desired color. There are also yellow daffodils, and the color of the crown varies: white, pale yellow, light yellow, orange and even red.

The daffodil has six petals. For the rim, two petal modules are cut out - three petals per module - and a core. You can make a whisk from one module, consisting of six petals.

If a small crown is made, then a scalloped circle is cut out and treated with a bulka in the center from the front side, and the edges are corrugated with a single incisor. But there are daffodils with a tubular crown. For her, cut out a semicircular strip with scallops. The festoons are crocheted so that they bent outward. The strip is folded in a tube and carefully glued. The tubular crown should not be longer than the petals.

The petals are colored (if necessary) while still wet. After they dry, they are crimped with a single incisor on the front side along the length of the petal, stepping back from the edge of 3-5 mm. And from the inside out, the petal is treated with a small gurgle on a hard rubber pillow.

Six daffodil stamens are made from silk or plain yellow and white threads dipped in paraffin or wax. The stamens are tied to a wire of 20-25 cm, then the core is mounted, and then the first module of the petals is put on. The second module is positioned so that its petals are in the intervals of the petals of the first module.

A cone-shaped cup is located on the stem near the corolla. It can be made of cotton wool and then wrapped in silk cloth or tissue paper. A light brown strip of paper is glued to the thickening. It is a good idea to wrap the wire for the stem first with cotton wool, and then only wrap it with cloth or paper, because the daffodil has a soft, fat stem.

When the stem is ready, the wire near the rim is bent at an angle of 45-60 degrees.

Narcissus has long, narrow, pointed leaves. Wire is glued to them and corrugated with a double-row cutter from the front side along the vein. The leaves should be five to six different lengths. They are attached at the very base of the stem in a bundle.

Orchids are very diverse in shape and color. It is an exquisite and elaborate flower. A pattern of the simplest orchid is proposed here, but other types of orchids can be made using this pattern, only by adjusting the pattern and outline of the petals.

Silk is suitable for making petals. For some reeds - panne.

If both the petals and the tongue are made of silk, then two parts are cut out.

If the tongue is planned from panne, then it is cut out separately.

For detail andyou can pick up immediately the fabric with the desired brown pattern or draw it on dry petals with diluted brown ink or aniline. Detail bthe petals and tongue are left white, only on the two upper petals, closer to the middle, they apply several brown spots and make a yellow spot above the tongue (under the future stamens). Petals b.Three wires wrapped in white silk are glued to the petals on the back side. The petals are corrugated on a rigid rubber pad with a single cutter from the middle to the edges. The two upper petals bulge with a small gurgle at the ends from the inside out, so that the petals curl back. The lower tongue is crimped with a single cutter on the front side and on the wrong side, alternating the corrugation. The lines are drawn smoothly, fan-shaped. The central part of the tongue is treated with a small bulka on the front side along the yellow spot so that the edges smoothly bend outward, and along the edges the tongue is treated with a small bulka on the front side on both sides of the central vein.

Petals a.They are treated with a small bulka on the front side at the bottom of the petals and ironed with a hot iron along the edges so that they bend outward.

The leaves are made of dense green fabric - satin, silk. Wire is glued to them from the inside out. The sheet is corrugated with a double-row cutter along the central vein from the inside out, and with a single cutter on the front side, lines are applied (two or three on each side of the central vein) along the entire length of the sheet from the base to the tip. The very base of the sheet is made expanded.

One or more flowers can be attached to the stem. Each flower is made on a separate wire. A small cotton ball tied with a thread is wound at the end of the wire and coated with glue - this is a pestle. The very tip of the ball is dipped in hot sealing wax or brown glue. The end of the wire is slightly bent so that the ball hangs over the tongue, and wrapped in light silk.

First row of petals (petals b) put on the wire and fixed below the pestle by 1 cm.Then put on petals aso that they fill in the gaps between the first row of petals. Hands give the flower the desired shape:

petals b- the tongue is bent forward, and two petals are bent back slightly;

petals a- the upper petal is bent slightly forward, and the side ones are bent back.

Since the orchid does not have a cup, two rows of petals are glued together in the center, and the wire under them is wrapped in green paper or cloth.

If you plan to make a whole branch with flowers, then flowers are attached to the main, thicker wire in the next order. The orchid has a natural thickening at the point of attachment of the flower on the stem, which is very convenient for assembly - less fuss to hide the wound wire when attaching the flower. At the bottom of the stem, a thickening is made of cotton wool - a bulb, on which a leaf is attached, wrapping the bulb with the end of an expanded petiole.

Irises are the most beautiful flowers. Thanks to selection, irises of the most varied colors have now been bred. The decorative embodiment of a flower is best made of silk or cambric.

The iris flower is quite complex, and at first it is advisable to carefully consider it. It consists of the following parts: three lower petals, three upper petals, three split petals - the so-called naphylar ridges, a beard and two bracts.

The petals are made of white fabric, cut out along an oblique line. Then the petals are moistened and painted with dyes on a damp cloth so that the effect of subtle transitions of paint from light to dark is obtained (paint from the edges to the middle). Dark veins on the lower petals are painted with a thin brush only on dried petals.

The upper and lower petals are corrugated with a single incisor on hard rubber from edge to middle along the front side. A thin wire wrapped in petal-colored paper is glued to the lower petals from the inside out. The wire is glued to the upper petals from the front side (the wrong side of the petal is turned outward). The central vein of the lower petals is carried out with a double-row incisor on the front side, and in the upper ones - on the wrong side. You can corrugate the lower and upper petals through cheesecloth - then they will have a more natural look.

The nadal ridges are crocheted on a soft pillow or twisted back on a match. The middle is treated from the inside out with a small bulka.

A yellow or orange beard is glued on top of the lower petals - for white and yellow irises and blue-white - for purple, blue and other irises. (Purple irises may have orange beards.) A beard can be made from threads or simply pick up small pieces of shaggy synthetic fabric of the desired color. On top of the lower petal, the nadal ridge is also glued.

The iris leaf is made double from a thin bluish-green material - cambric, thin silk. It should be 2/3 of the stem in size. As a rule, the sharp tip of the leaf is slightly bent in the direction opposite from the stem. Two halves of a sheet, smeared with glue, are folded together, and a wire is laid between them in the center. The bottom of the sheet, about 1 cm, is not glued, then the stem is inserted into it.

The sheet is squeezed so that it sticks together, and at the same time it is pulled slightly in length by hands. Then they are corrugated with a single cutter, making two to four strips along the entire length of the sheet, starting from the tip.

First, three lower petals with a beard and a comb are attached to the wire (the angle between the petals is 120 degrees). In the intervals between them, the three upper petals are placed in such a way that they close over the lower ones in the place where the crest bends.

All petals are glued around the stem and wrapped with a thin wire for strength. Then all the "tails" are wrapped in green paper to make a slight thickening, and two bracts are glued on it opposite each other.

Bracts are cut out of gray-green tissue and corrugated along the length with a single incisor, making several vertical veins.

The lower petals are bent down, and the upper ones are bent with the ends inward.

The stem is wrapped with a thin layer of cotton wool, and then with bluish-green paper. The wire is slightly bent 15 cm from the flower and in this place two more bracts are glued, inside which a tightly twisted bud is placed. The stem itself should be 30–45 cm long. Irises are also short, then you need to observe the general proportions. At the bottom, the stem is wrapped around two leaves, and other leaves (if any) are planted so that each subsequent leaf wraps around the previous one.

Persian carnation

(terry)

The well-known carnation flower of the most varied color is made from silk, crepe de Chine, cambric or fine chintz.

For the rim, three circles of different sizes are cut. The center of the circles is painted over by hand with a brush or cotton swab in a darker color than the main color of the corolla. Two large circles are folded four times - eight segments are obtained, which are notched 3/4. The smaller circle is divided into four or six segments.

At each petal, the edges are slightly rounded and small teeth are made, preferably in a semicircle.

Each petal in a circle is corrugated on a soft pillow with a two-row or three-row cutter as follows: alternately one petal is corrugated from the wrong side, the other from the front side so that they unfold in different directions. You can fold the circles together and crimp them through cheesecloth to irregularly shape the veins.

The flower's calyx is five-toothed, gray-green. It is made of dense silk, chintz or satin. You can wax it with paraffin.

If you plan to make buds, then a tightly rolled or half-rolled smaller circle with petals is inserted inside the tightly twisted cup. It should not protrude more than 0.5 mm above the cup.

At the end of the wire, a small oval winding of cotton wool is made, in the center of which are placed three starched and curled threads - stamens - white or yellow.

The leaves of the Persian carnation are thin, long and whorled, that is, they come out of one point. They are bluish-gray-green in color, often with a dull white coating. They are made of dense silk, satin, they are well starch and are not glued to the wire, but simply corrugated with a single cutter. Leaves can be waxed with wax or paraffin after coloring.

The flower is harvested. The corolla circles are put on the wire one by one: first a small circle, then large ones. The ends of the corollas are tightly wrapped with thread and the cotton wool under the petals is twisted a little more.

Then a cup is put on the winding and its cloves are glued to the petals.

The stem - wire - is wrapped in green-blue paper and glued to the cup. To make the end of the cup look neat and complete, a glue of two rounded teeth (bracts) is put on the wire and glued to the bottom of the cup.

Every 5-10 cm, leaves are mounted on the stem. They are put on the stem in pairs and glued to it at a distance of 0.7 mm from the point of attachment.

The stem of a carnation also needs to be waxed.

Violets are best made of silk, and those used as decorations for clothes are made of panne. It is advisable to immediately pick up a colored fabric - purple-blue, deep lilac, lilac-pink or white. One bouquet can contain violets of two colors, but it is better that they differ in tone rather than color.

Violet corolla consists of five petals. It is cut out entirely. If it is necessary to paint the material, then the wet petals are painted with a brush from the edge to the middle, leaving the center unpainted. On the already dyed fabric, thin diverging black rays are drawn on the three lower petals with a brush or pen, and the very center is painted with white.

The corolla is corrugated on the front side with a small bulka on soft rubber, and two or three veins are carried out along the three lower petals from the center to the middle with a single incisor. The middle of the violet is made as follows: a thin wire entwined with light green (salad-colored) silk is bent, the end is dipped in yellow PVA glue and allowed to dry. Then a dot is put on the yellow tip with a red gouache brush.

The cup is made of light green silk; on its teeth, a single incisor is drawn along the line.

The leaves are made of dense silk, preferably grassy green (no blue). A thin wire is glued to a round sheet plate from the inside out and corrugated with a single cutter. The wire is taken 6–8 cm long - for the length of the leaf blade and petiole. Then, from the inside out, a small relief is pressed between the veins with a small bulka.

In violets, there are also light green stipules of two types. Some are glued at the point of attachment of the leaves, others are attached in pairs on long peduncles.

A corolla is put on a wire with a center so that the yellow center looks out slightly from the petals. A cup is put on the back of the wire through the hole, the bottom of the cup is rolled up with a tube, and its cloves are slightly glued to the rim. The wire is wrapped in light green silk. At the bottom, petioled leaves are attached to the peduncles (their length is 8-10 cm). The attachment points are hidden under glued stipules.

If a bouquet of violets is supposed to decorate clothes, then peduncles and leaves on petioles are simply formed into a small bunch and tied with a silk ribbon.

Pansies

Unlike violets, pansies are best made from panne. A variety of colors of pansies and a large selection of materials in stores allow you to pick up factory-dyed panne. It remains to starch it.

Four parts are cut out for the corolla, and they can all be of one or two colors. Often in pansies, the upper petals are colored in contrasting colors to the lower petals: blue-violet, violet, black, purple-red, while the bottom can be white, blue, yellow, brick red, etc.

This makes the pansies look very fancy. Curly spots or strokes emanating from the center are drawn with black or dark purple ink on the lower and two lateral petals.

The petals are corrugated on the front side with a single incisor starting from the edge to the middle. From the inside, the petals along the edges are treated with a small bulka.

The core is made the same as that of violets, it is only important to respect the proportions.

The cup is cut out of green satin or silk. The leaves, narrower than those of violets, are made of dense dark green silk.

When assembling, the upper left petal is halfway over the right. The central lower petal overlaps the lower side ones and also slightly overlaps them, and they, in turn, overlap the two upper petals to the middle.

The stem is wrapped in a light green silk cloth.

Clematis

Clematis is a very decorative flower, simple to perform. It can be made from cambric, chintz, satin or silk. Color - white, lilac, pink, crimson, blue and black-violet.

Clematis petals from the inside are light gray-green in color, and therefore they are painted over with white.

The corolla consists of six to eight petals. To make a flower, two circles of petals are cut out, three or four petals in each. Each petal on the front side is corrugated with a three-row incisor, and along the edges - with a single incisor. From the inside out, the space between the veins is ironed with a small bulka or crochet. The center on the front side is treated with a bulka.

The stamens are made from cotton thread No. 10 or iris of black-purple color, and the ends are dipped 2/3 into PVA glue with whitewash.

Leaves can be made from any green material. Three leaves are collected on a long petiole.

Sweet pea

Large sweet pea flowers of various colors are made of silk, crepe de Chine or cambric. It is better to use already dyed fabrics that can be combined for this flower, for example: white top and bluish bottom, pink with burgundy, etc.

Three patterns are made for the corolla: the upper curly petal - the "flag", the doubled middle petal - the "wings" and also the doubled third petal - the "boat". Using this pattern, you can, observing the proportions, make flowers and acacia, and wisteria, and simple garden peas.

The "flag" is crimped from the inside out with a double-row cutter on hard rubber and processed from the front side in the center with a small bulka. "Wings" and "boat" blouse from the inside out. The green cup is also bulged in the center.

The “wings” and “boat” are folded in half, the “wings” are put on the “boat”, and a “flag” is put on top of them. The petals are attached to the wire coated with glue and sewn at the attachment point. Then put on a cup.

Paired leaves are made from bluish green fabric. The place of attachment of the leaf to the stem is hidden with a stipule.

Disentra ("broken heart")

This is a very beautiful decorative flower. The flat corolla consists of spliced \u200b\u200bbright pink heart-shaped petals.

The petals are double. They are cut out of chintz, silk or satin according to a pattern, processed from the inside with a bulka on soft rubber in the center and then glued along the edges.

To make the middle, a small layer of cotton wool is wound on a thin wire and a curly white tongue with a yellow speck is glued, which hangs 2/3 from the rim. The tongue is also made double and corrugated in the center with a bulka, and crocheted at the edges.

The sheet is cut out of satin.

Blooming apple tree branch

Simple and graceful apple blossoms are made from white cambric, silk or crepe de Chine.

The corolla, consisting of five petals, is cut out in one piece. The petals are tinted with pink dye. To do this, a light pink blush is applied to the slightly damp petals from the inside with a cotton swab. A hole is pierced in the middle of the rim. The center of the circle on the front side is blasted with a small bulka on a pillow with sand, and each petal is also treated.

Apple-tree flowers grow in bunches on a branch. To get such a bundle, take several thin wires and twist them together, leaving the ends 5-6 cm long. Stamens 1 cm long are made quite thick from white or slightly pinkish silk starch threads and fasten them at the ends of thin wires. The ends of the stamens are cut and dipped in yellow paint with PVA glue or yellow semolina.

The cup is made with five cloves of green chintz and corrugated on hard rubber with a bulka in the middle and a double-row cutter - for each clove from the edge to the center.

Any dense green material will work for the leaves. A wire is glued to the sheet from the inside out, corrugated with a double-row cutter along the vein and the side veins are applied with a single cutter on the front side.

A rim is put on a thin wire with stamens, the teeth of the cup are bent down a little. A whisk with a cup is glued to the base of the bundle of stamens.

You can make a bud on one of the wires. A cotton ball is wrapped in two white-pink petals cut out separately. A cup is glued to the bud, the teeth of which are bent to the sides.

Several flowers are collected in a bunch, which is attached to the stem. The wire under the flowers is wrapped in green paper and a couple of leaves are attached to it. Flowers beautifully bend in different directions. Two or three more wires with bunches of flowers and leaves are screwed to the main wire. Then the main stem is slightly bent and wrapped in brown paper, which is tinted in some places with dark brown paint.

Jasmine (chubushnik)

The jasmine branch is made according to the same principle as the apple blossom branch. The differences are purely biological. The corolla of jasmine has four petals, thick yellow stamens, and narrower leaves that sit on the stem in pairs.

The rim is cut out of a pattern of pure white silk or cambric.

Terry jasmine

Three to four petal circles of different sizes are cut out for the corolla. Each circle of petals is crimped in the middle with a small hot bloom on a soft sandy pillow. A small depression is made on the pillow with a finger, in which each petal is also treated with a bulka.

The stamens are made from starchy yellow threads, silk or cotton No. 10.

A four-toothed cup is bullet in the center.

The leaves are made from dark green satin. One wire can be glued to them on two sheets at once. Leaves with a face are corrugated with a two-row incisor along the central vein, and side veins are applied with a single one. They are attached to the stem in pairs.

The stem is wrapped in light brown paper.

Orange blossom

Orange Blossom is the flower of the orange tree, which in the Catholic tradition was a symbol of the bride and was used for bouquets, boutonnieres and wreaths.

The corolla of the flower consists of five rounded petals that frame long stamens. Flowers on short stalks make up a dense inflorescence. They are made of white opaque silk (tuali).

Each petal is treated with a bulka along the edge from the front side.

The green cup is bulging in the center.

The leaves of the orange tree are leathery, dense, it is better to make them from dense green silk or satin.

Assembling a plant is similar to assembling an apple branch.

Another lovely flower. It is made from white, scarlet or pink opaque silk.

The corolla is collected from three circles, each with four petals. Two pairs of upper petals are corrugated on the front side with a single incisor from the center to the edge, and the marginal petals - from the edge to the center. All petals around the edges from the inside out are treated with a bulka.

The circles are collected in such a way that the petals of one circle are located in the intervals between the petals of the previous circle.

The thick stamens are made from starched yellow silk threads.

The sheet is made of dark green satin.

Decorative foliage

For the manufacture of various types of wreaths: laurel and oak, garlands and artificial bouquets, as well as for theatrical performances, decorative foliage is used everywhere.

Patterns for oak, bay leaves are best done from live or dried leaves. For their production, dense cotton fabrics or satin of dark green, "grassy" color are used. Leaves cut from fabric are glued to the wire and corrugated on the front with a double-row cutter along the central vein and a single cutter along the lateral ones. After that, the leaves are attached to the main wire, twisted in the form of a wreath, and straightened out as much as possible. Oak and bay leaves are covered with a thin layer of paraffin or wax.

For autumn maple leaves, cotton chintz and satin, silk and viscose fabrics in yellow-orange-red colors are suitable. The tips of the leaves are slightly tinted brown or green. In addition to the corrugation of maple leaves, the ends are slightly crocheted.

Herbs for bouquets and wreaths (sedge) are cut into strips of starched cloth or paper and a wire is glued to them in the center. They can be coated with paraffin or light varnish.

Plants with small leaves (such as a fern) are used to "dilute" bouquets with artificial flowers. Making them is simple, but it will take patience and accuracy. The pattern is done as follows: draw a circle and divide it into curly segments with the desired pattern. Each cut out segment is glued to a thin wire and corrugated with a double-row cutter. Then all the finished leaves are mounted on a wire base. The base is either painted with green or brown paint, or wrapped with tissue paper.

Ritual flowers

If you want to make a bunch of flowers on your own in a cemetery or in a columbarium for a person dear to you, then do not gelatin the fabric for them, but wet it in PVA glue diluted with water (1 part of glue and 2 parts of water, or it can be halved if the glue is good) ... Smooth the fabric with an iron, spreading it out on an oilcloth (but not on a rag lining!), While it is still damp, and then dry it flat. It is better to take a factory-dyed fabric, but if you want to dye the material yourself, then use professional aniline dyes diluted with alcohol - they will not be so damaged by rain and will fade less in the sun.

"Fantasy" flowers

Paradoxical as it may seem, in order to start making “fantasy” flowers (flowers generated by the author's imagination), it’s a good idea to first see fresh flowers or even make a couple of artificial flowers of a realistic orientation. First of all, to understand the general harmony of the parts of the flower, the subtlety of the lines. For example, you can come up with a "magic" flower, richly decorated and seemingly matching the color and style of your dress, but at the same time it will look heavy, clumsy and disharmonious on your clothes. And this will happen due to a violation of the proportions of the flower - petals that are too large or roughly cut, the monstrous center of the flower, etc.

Harmony can only be learned from nature, but a flower should still give rise to associations with a flower. And, as a rule, “fantasy” flowers are the author's paraphrase of the wealth that nature already has. Many designer flowers resemble clematis, roses, lilies or mallow.

Master classes: DIY fabric flowers.

Satin Ribbon Flower

Master class with step by step photos: How to make a flower from a satin ribbon with your own hands.

1. Take a tape 4 cm wide. Cut 5 pieces of tape 7.5 cm long and 5 pieces of tape 9 cm long. Singe the edges slightly.

2. Fold one piece of tape in half. Sew with small stitches along the open sections, departing from the cut 2-3 mm. The thread should be the same color as the ribbon.

3. We pull together.

4. Without breaking the thread, sew the second piece of tape of the same length. In this way, we collect 5 blanks of the same length per thread. We pull together.

5. We connect in a circle.

6. Do the same with workpieces of a different size. We collect the flower with glue or a glue gun. I used a button as the middle. Such a flower has a very neat center and the button can not be glued, but simply sewn on.

7. Close the seamy side with a circle of felt (glued with a glue gun). The inside can be closed with a piece of cardboard covered with fabric. You can also cut a circle out of a plastic bottle and cover it with fabric.

With the help of such a flower, you can make an elastic band, a brooch or decorate a headband with it.

This flower is made from 8 cm and 9.5 cm long pieces of satin ribbon.

Rep ribbon flower

Cut the ribbon into pieces of equal length. Here I have pieces that are 7.5 cm long. We burn the slices with a lighter (match or candle) so that they do not bloom.

We fold in the way shown in the photo.

We fold so that all 4 corners are together.

Fasten with a needle and thread.

Without breaking the thread, collect the rest of the petals in the same way.

We connect in a circle. And I once again pass the needle and thread in a circle to secure it more firmly.

I bring the needle to the wrong side and there I sew in a circle.

Sew on a button. The middle can be decorated with a sewing-on rhinestone, etc.

I sew a rubber band on the wrong side.

Satin ribbon rose

Master class with step by step photos: How to make a rose from a satin ribbon with your own hands.

1. Satin ribbon 5 cm wide. This rose took 75 cm long. I singed the edges, but this is not necessary.

2. Bend the edge of the tape to the wrong side like this.

3. We begin to twist the corner.

4. The twisted corner (the middle of the rose) is fixed with a thread.

5. Bend the tape so that one edge of the tape goes along the other edge.

6. Bend along the touch line of the edges of the tape.

7. Sew along the edge with a needle-forward seam.

8. Bend the tape again so that one edge of the tape goes along the other edge.

9. Bend along the line of touching the edges of the tape.

10. Sew along the edge with a needle-forward seam.

11. And so we repeat to the end of the tape.

12. End of tape.

13. It turns out like this "spiral".

14. Slightly tighten the seam, evenly distributing the folds.

15. The middle of the bud starts to spin by itself.

16. We begin to twist the bud, fixing each layer with a thread or a glue gun.

The type of bud depends on how stiff the tape is, how much it was pulled together and how tightly the layers are laid.

I have a rather stiff tape here, it was tightly tightened and the layers did not fit tightly.

We make leaves. She also made the leaves from a 5 cm wide ribbon - there was no other suitable color.

Inside view.

She glued the leaves with a glue gun. I covered the inside of the rose with a round piece of felt - also glued it with a glue gun. I glued it with a glue gun and a rubber band.

A rose with a smaller diameter took 65 cm of a satin ribbon and is twisted more tightly. The tape itself is also softer.

Braid rose

In order to create such cute roses, you will need very little time. They are very simple to implement and the best part does not require large financial costs. It took me less than 10 rubles to make one such ring: 5 rubles for the blank for the ring and 2.5 rubles for the braid.

Roses are made of zig-zag braid (this braid is also called "snake" or "bindweed").

For a large rose, it took me 50 cm of braid, for a smaller one - 46 cm.

Master class: Rosette from braid

So we need:
- braid "snake"
- threads in the color of the braid
- needle
- scissors
- lighter or matches
- glue gun or other suitable glue

1. Cut the braid to the required length.

2. Fold in half.

3. We intertwine (twist) the parts of the braid together.

4. Completed to the end.

5. The ends of the braid are carefully cut off and burned with a lighter.

6. We begin to twist the bud and stitch it with a thread on one side (bottom of the rose or the wrong side). It is better to take the threads to match the braid - this way the work will look neater. For the master class, the contrasting thread was taken for clarity.

7. Straighten the rose petals, slightly bending the outer layers.

8. The braid rose is ready.

In order to make a ring, we take a blank for a ring with a round platform.

We glue the blank of the ring to the rose with a glue gun.

Circle Flower: Carnation

1. Cut out a template from cardboard - I have a circle with a diameter of 6.5 cm. We take a piece of synthetic fabric (the fabric should melt well over the fire). Cut out 12 circles from the fabric.

2. Singe the edge of the circle over the candle in small sections and immediately, until it cools down, bend in different directions (towards ourselves and away from ourselves). The edges of the circles are wavy.

3. Take one circle of fabric and fold it in half.

4. Then put it in half again.

5. We fix the corner with a thread. We do this with all circles.

6. Cut out the felt circle. We make leaves from fabric (I have a green satin ribbon). We begin to glue the blanks with a glue gun. First, I glued two circles - to determine the size of the leaves. Then she glued the leaves and continued to glue the prepared circles.

The first layer takes 4 circles. Glue the second and third layers of circles in a checkerboard pattern with respect to the previous row.

In order to glue the first layer, we completely spread the felt circle with glue. In order to glue the second layer with glue, we spread the area twice as small. For the third layer, we glue only the middle with glue. Then we drop a drop of glue into the middle and press the petals of the third layer to each other.

Cloth flower (sharp petals from circles)

Master class with step by step photos: How to make a flower from fabric with your own hands.

1. Cut out templates from cardboard - I have a circle with a diameter of 6.5 cm and 5.5 cm. Take a piece of easily draped fabric and cut out 5 circles of each diameter.

2. Take circles of the same diameter and fold one circle in half.

3. Then another half.

4. Sew with small stitches along open sections, stepping back from the cut 3 mm. The thread should be the same color as the fabric.

5. Without breaking the thread, sew the second circle. The folds of all petals in the same row should point in the same direction.

6. In this way we collect 5 blanks per thread. We pull together.

7. We connect in a circle.

8. We do the same with workpieces of a different diameter.

9. We collect the flower with glue or a glue gun. I used a button as the middle.

10. Close the wrong side with a circle of felt (glued with a glue gun). I also glued the rubber band with a glue gun.

Such a flower can also be used as a brooch by gluing the brooch base to the wrong side. With the help of such a flower, you can decorate the rim, etc.

Another example of a flower with sharp petals made from cloth circles:

Cloth flower (round petals from circles)

Master class with step by step photos: How to make a flower from fabric with your own hands.

1. Cut out a template from cardboard - I have a circle with a diameter of 5.5 cm. Take a piece of easily draped fabric and cut out 5 circles.

2. Fold one circle in half. We sew with small stitches along the open sections, stepping back from the cut 3 mm. The thread should be the same color as the fabric.

3. We pull together.

4. Without breaking the thread, sew the second circle.

5. In this way we collect 5 blanks per thread. We pull together.

6. We connect in a circle.

7. I used a button as the center.

8. Glue the button in the middle (I use a glue gun). Close the inside with a circle of felt.

The inside can be closed with a piece of cardboard covered with fabric. You can also cut a circle out of a plastic bottle and cover it with fabric. With the help of such a flower, you can make an elastic band, a brooch or decorate a headband with it.

DIY satin ribbon rose

Take a 5 cm wide satin ribbon and cut it into squares. You can take a tape of a different width. From a narrower ribbon, you get smaller roses, but it's better to try the first time on a ribbon of 5 cm.

We cut the required number of squares. I have this rose of 25 petals.

We singe the slices over the fire so as not to crumble. You can use a candle, matches, or a lighter to singe. I am more comfortable with a candle, and if I also take an aromatic candle, it is complete relaxation.

Fold the square diagonally with the right side out.

We bend the two side corners to the central one. You don't need to solder them over the fire - I soldered them to make the photos easier to take.

Cut off the corners (approximately 5 mm).

We seal the cut over the fire. It is easier to do this by holding the cut in tweezers and leaving it sticking out somewhere by 1 mm. It is more convenient to use tweezers flat and even (not the same as in my photo). I touched my handy tweezers somewhere and had to do with what I had.

We do this with all the squares.

Take one square and twist it. We fasten the bottom with a thread. You can also fix it with glue, but I prefer to sew the first petals.

We take the next petal and wrap our middle with it. We place the tops of the petals opposite each other.

Take the next petal and continue to form the bud. I apply the subsequent petals so that the beginning (corner) of the next petal falls in the middle of the previous one.

We continue, trying to arrange the cuts of the petals at the same level.

The bottom of the rose should be almost flat.

Continue to the desired rose size.

I make the leaves from a 4 cm wide satin ribbon.Cut off a piece of green satin ribbon 8 cm long.

We add it like this. Once again, fold along the fold line so as to combine points A-A and B-B.

We fold so as to combine all the corners on the front side.

Cut off the corner.

We solder the cut over the fire, holding it in tweezers.

View of the leaf from the wrong side.

Front view of the leaf.

We collect the rose: glue the leaves to the wrong side with glue (I use a glue gun). We carefully decorate the seamy side. There are many different ways - I prefer to cover the inside out with a felt circle. Then I glue the rubber band with a glue gun.

Flower from braid "bindweed" (snake, zig-zag)

Master class: Flower from the braid "bindweed" (snake, zig-zag)

Materials: satin braid ruche 2.5 cm wide, a piece of felt, a button.

Instruments:

I have a lace ruffle made of satin fabric folded 2 times. I cut off 33-35 cm, sealed the edges over the candle.

I wrap the tape around my finger, sewing each layer with thread.

Inside view.

I straighten it. The result is such a flower. You can leave it like this, or you can decorate the middle with a button or bead.

In order to close the inside out, I cut a circle out of felt and glue it with a glue gun. First, I apply glue to the middle of the flower and glue it - the edges of the felt are not glued. Then I apply glue to the edges of the felt and press the flower against them.

Inside view. You can glue an elastic band or a base under a brooch. You can also use this flower to decorate the rim.

Master class: do-it-yourself ruche flower from braid

Materials: satin braid ruche 2.5 cm wide, a piece of felt.

Instruments: sharp scissors, matches (candle or lighter), tweezers, needle, glue gun (other types of glue can also be used).

I have a lace ruffle made of satin fabric folded 2 times. I cut off 50 cm, the edges are sealed over the candle.

I twist it around the handle and sew each layer with a thread.

Inside view.

I cut a circle out of felt and glue it with a glue gun. First, I apply glue to the middle of the flower and glue it - the edges of the felt are not glued. Then I apply glue to the edges of the felt and press the flower against them.

You can make ribbon leaves and decorate the flower. You can glue an elastic band or a base under a brooch.

Photo: flower "Carnation" from braid ruche