Knit a jacket with a shawl collar. White jacket for spring Shawl collar jacket large size with pattern

21.07.2024

The shawl collar has one unique property that is not inherent in many costume details - it can give any jacket a very feminine touch. This stunning effect is achieved due to the smoothness of the lines originating at the shoulder line - a shawl collar not only emphasizes the elegance of the neck, but also visually lengthens it. Another undeniable advantage of a shawl collar is that such a collar is quite easy to model and process into a product.

There are two types of shawl collars - one-piece and cut-off collars. We invite you to consider and model patterns for both types of collars. A one-piece shawl collar is built on the basis of a pattern for the front of the product. you can build it yourself and

Rice. 1. Pattern of a one-piece shawl collar

On the pattern of the front of the product, mark the position of the top button. Set aside 1.5 cm from it and place point L0. Along the line of the middle of the shelf, add a half-skid increase of 3 cm, draw a side line. From point L1, draw a vertical segment L1L2 with a length equal to the length of the back neckline along the pattern.

From point L1 with radius L1L2, draw an arc. Along an arc from point L2, set aside the width of the collar rise - L2L3 = 7 cm. Draw the segment L3L4 perpendicular to the segment L1L3 10 cm long, of which 3 cm is the height of the one-piece stand and 7 cm is the width of the collar rise.

Draw the outer line of the collar according to the pattern (points L6 and L7). Cut out the top collar as a one-piece collar with a collar.

Rice. 2. Pattern of a cut-off shawl collar

To create a pattern for a cut-off shawl collar for a jacket or dress, you need to draw a rectangle - the length of the rectangle is equal to the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 12 cm: 18+12=30 cm.

The width of the rectangle is 13 cm (collar width across the back = 8 cm).

IMPORTANT! The length of the collar depends on the depth of the neckline; for a deeper neckline, the increase must be increased. The length of the collar can be measured from the 7th cervical vertebra by wrapping a flexible measuring tape around the neck and down the front to the desired neckline depth.

Shawl collar sewing line. Set aside 5 cm along the top short side of the rectangle. Draw 2 dotted lines as shown in Fig. 2. Divide each in half and set down 1 cm and 4 cm, respectively. Using the pattern, draw a line for sewing the shawl collar and the outer side of the collar.

A cut-off shawl collar is cut out in two folded parts.

You will find even more patterns and new ideas on the website of Anastasia Korfiati’s Sewing School. Subscribe to free lessons at the Sewing School and sew fashionable clothes with us!

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials

Yarn DROPS LIMA (65% wool, 35% alpaca, 50 g/92 m) 11-12-13-14-16-17 skeins of gray color, circular knitting needles 4 mm and 5 mm, 2 buttons

Knitting density

19 stitches and 25 rows = 10x10 cm in stockinette stitch on 5 mm needles

Description of the jacket with knitting needles

Basic pattern:

1st row (purl): knit.st.

2nd row: knit.p.

Row 3: *2 sts together, yarn over, repeat from * to end of row.

4th and 5th rows: knit.p.

Knit 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm in stockinette stitch and follow. repeat the main pattern on the wrong side.

Button loops perform the following on the right shelf. way: knit the 3rd and 4th loops from the outer edge together, yarn over; For the second button, knit the 3rd and 4th loops from the inner edge of the placket, yarn over.

Buttonhole location:

Size: S: 28 cm

Size M: 29 cm

Size L: 30cm

Size XL: 30 cm

Size XXL: 31 cm

Size XXXL: 32 cm

Decrease loops: Decrease 1 stitch before the 1st and 3rd markers: k2 stitches together; Decrease 1 stitch after the 2nd and 4th markers: slip 1 stitch as knit, 1 stitch. and pull it through the removed one.

Main detail of the jacket

On 4 mm needles, cast on 204-220-240-256-284-308 sts (including 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts for stripes on each side) and knit 7 rows in garter stitch, switch to needles 5 mm and continue with stocking stitch, knit the loops of the straps with garter stitch. Place 4 trace markers 8 cm from the inlaid edge. way: knit stitches of the plank and trace. 41-45-49-53-59-65 p., put 1 marker, knit 2 p., 2 marker, knit 82-90-98-106-118-130 p., 3 marker, knit 2 p., 4 marker, 41-45-49-53-59-65 sts and another 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts.

Next on the front row, decrease 1 loop at each marker (4 loops per row) and then repeat the row of decreases every 5-5-6-6-4-4 cm for another 3-3-3-3-5-5 rows. = 188-204-224-240-260-284 p. Knit in stocking stitch to a height of 28-29-30-30-31-32 cm and then continue with the main pattern (see description above), knit the loops of the strap as before in garter stitch viscous. At the same time, make buttonholes and after 31-32-33-33-34-35 cm divide the knitting: transfer the first and last 56-60-66-70-76-82 stitches of the front shelves to the additional ones. knitting needle and continue knitting on the back loops = 76-84-92-100-108-120 sts.

Back

Continue knitting with the main pattern and at the same time for the sleeves, cast on 30 stitches at the end of the next. 2 rows = 136-144-152-160-168-180 sts. Knit 8 stitches on each side in garter stitch and at the same time, at a back height of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, bind off the stitches for shoulder bevels at the beginning of each row. way: 19-19-18-18-17-19 p. 1 time, 10-11-12-13-14-15 p. 4 times and at the same time at a height of 56-58-60-62-64 -66 cm start forming the neckline: close off the central 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts. After the shoulder bevels are completed, back height = 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

Right front of the jacket

Knit in the same way as the back and after 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm add 1 loop at the outer loop of the bar, repeat the increase in every 6th row 3 more times = 90-94-100-104-110 -116 p. Knit the shoulder bevel as for the back. There will be 31-31-34-34-37-37 stitches left on the needles for the shawl collar.

Continue garter stitch on these stitches in short rows, starting from the knit row: *2 rows on the first 23-23-26-26-29-29 sts, 2 rows on all stitches, repeat from * to collar height 6-6- 7-7-8-8 cm.

Knit the left front of the jacket symmetrically to the right front.

Assembly

Sew shoulder and sleeve seams. Sew the shawl collar along the edge of the back neckline and sew both parts of it in the center of the back. Sew buttons.

In this publication, we will look at knitting one-piece shawl collars on jackets and pullovers. This detail is also called a shawl collar by needlewomen. This element gives a more sophisticated look to a particular knitted product. Every needlewoman who skillfully uses knitting needles can knit it. Most craftswomen, wanting to complement knitted clothing with a similar collar, encounter problems when knitting it, since there are quite a few ways to create it. We offer you several options to work with

Whole knitted shawl on jackets

This collar is knitted from bottom to top along with the placket. To get such a detail, you need to knit eleven stitches according to the following pattern: k1, p1. in this case, you should start with the edge and one face.

Twenty-five to thirty centimeters before the shoulder line, you can begin making extensions for the shawl collar. In this case, it is necessary to knit the buttonholes of the plank, followed by the knit stitch. and next to it, cast on 1 purl. cross. stitches from a transverse thread (= thirteen stitches of a one-on-one pattern). Similar increases in loops are carried out further in all sixth rows (r.) and each time in a one-on-one pattern you need to knit two stitches more with knitting needles. This is done until the shawl collar reaches thirty-one stitches in width. After this, you can knit directly to the shoulder line.

At the next stage, you can fasten or remove the shoulder buttonholes onto an additional knitting needle and continue knitting the placket with knitting needles, casting in the first p. at the level of the shoulder cut there is an additional edge. Subsequently, this edge will be hemmed to the back neckline.

To knit the desired width of a shawl collar, follow the outer edge on all sides after every four r. knit with knitting needles five six times shortened r. - approximately three-quarters of all stitches. In a specific example, this is twenty-four p. Such shortened r. need to be knitted with a double crochet or with loops pulled through. In the photo, the shawl collar and shoulder bevels were made using broaching.

Thus, the knitting goes to the middle of the back neckline. Then, all the links must be removed onto an additional spoke. The second half of the front is performed similarly.

At the final stage, the buttonholes of both halves on the right and left sides must be transferred to two knitting needles, respectively, and sewn together using a loop-to-loop stitch. Next, the side edge of the shawl collar is hemmed to the back neckline.

Solid knitted shawl on a pullover

In our next training part of the article, we will look at another method of knitting a shawl collar, this time for pullovers.

In the photo below, we see an example of a knitted pullover with a fairly wide shawl collar. During the knitting process, doubling the middle twelve buttonholes was used to achieve this effect. At the same time, knitting such a collar can be started with six, eight or fourteen or more loops.

First, you should mark the central twelve points of the front of the product. In the case when the left bar needs to go onto the right one, it is necessary to knit the fabric up to the given twelve stitches. After this, knit 1 purl with knitting needles eleven times. cross. p. from a transverse thread and 1 persons. p., the final stitch will be an edge stitch (= twenty-three stitches of the one-on-one pattern). Then they continue to knit the fabric directly in height.

Let's consider another case, when, on the contrary, the right plank overlaps the left one. To do this, you should also knit the fabric up to the given twelve stitches, the first of which is a new edge stitch. Next, alternately knit 1 stitch with knitting needles eleven times. and increase 1 purl. cross. p. from a transverse thread. Then you can continue knitting the main pattern.

After this, as in the first case with the jacket, you should expand the pattern in all sixths of the row. for two buttonholes: knit the loop next to the placket links, add 1 purl next to it. cross. p. from a transverse thread. In the presented example of a pullover, a similar increase in loops was performed nine times (= eighteen additional stitches) or a total of forty-one stitches of the plank.
Knitting continues until the middle of the neckline. Here you need to knit forty-one stitches and the adjacent persons. p. Then, along the inner edge, cast on 1 more additional edge (in order to sew) = forty-three p. To make extensions, starting from the shoulders, after four r. Knit the outer thirty stitches six times.

For the next placket, cast on twenty-three stitches along the inner edge of the top placket.
The buttonholes of the two halves of the collar on both sides must be transferred respectively to two knitting needles and sewn together using a loop-to-loop seam. At the final stage, the finished shawl collar is sewn to the back neckline.

Models with shawl collar

Stand-up collar

Shawl type collar or shawl.
Shawl collars can have a wide variety of turn-down shapes. The main feature of this type of collar is that the upper collar is cut together with the collars. Shawl collars are widely used in women's and men's clothing - these are blouses, dresses, jackets, robes, tuxedos, etc.

To create a pattern for a shawl collar, we need a pattern for the base of the dress. If you don't yet have a pattern for your figure, you can create one using our step-by-step instructions.

From the drawing of the front base, copy the line of the shoulder, neckline and the line of the middle of the front.

Side width.
From the line of the middle front to the right we set aside the width of the side. In products with a single-breasted fastener, for example in a blouse, the width of the side is 1.5-2 cm from the mid-front line. In products with a double-breasted fastener or in bathrobes, the width of the side can be up to 10cm.
In our example, the width of the side is 2cm. We set this value aside from point B4 to the right, put point C and from it down draw a line parallel to the line of the middle front.

Neck.
We widen the neckline at the shoulder seams by 0.75-1cm. From point B3 to the left along the shoulder seam, set aside 1 cm, place point C1. Connecting it with point B4 with a smooth curve, we get a new line for the front neckline.

It is necessary to expand the sprout line (back neck) by the same distance. Along the line of the back shoulder to the right of point A4, set aside 1 cm and place point C2. We draw a new sprout line by connecting points A and C2 with a smooth curve.

Let's go back to the front.

Lapel fold line.
The starting point of the lapel fold line is located along the edge of the edge, 1.5-2 cm above the level of the first loop. The location of the first loop is determined in accordance with the style of your product.
We mark in our drawing the point of the beginning of the fold line of the lapel and put point L.

To determine the direction of the fold line of the lapel, on the continuation of the shoulder line from point C1 we set aside a distance equal to the height of the stand minus 0.5 cm. The average stand height is 3cm.
3 - 0.5 = 2.5 cm
We set this distance from point C1 to the right along the continuation of the shoulder line and place point C3. We connect point L and C3, we get the fold line of the lapel.

Stitching line and collar width.
From point C1 upward, draw a line parallel to the fold line of the lapel. On this line from point C1 upward we plot the length of the sprout, which we measure with a centimeter placed on the edge along the back pattern from point A to C2 (See Fig. 4) and put point C4.

From point C1 with a radius equal to the distance C1C4, we draw an arc on which to the left of point C4 we set aside the height of the stand, in our case - 3 cm and place point C5. We connect points C5 and C1 with a straight line.

Collar width the back may be different, in our example it is 8 cm. From point C5 we set aside 8 cm at a right angle and place point C6. We finalize the stitching line for the collar with a smooth curve C5, C1, B4, C, observing the rule: the stitching line should approach the line of the middle of the collar at a right angle.

All constructions in this section can be done using a compass.

Collar departure line.

The departure line can be of various shapes. In our example, the departure line has a standard classic configuration and runs in a smooth line from point C6 to point C.

The line of the inner edge of the hem.
The width of the hem may vary depending on the style, type of fastener, fabric, etc., but should not be closer than 1.5-2 cm to the edge of the loop.
In our example, the width of the hem is 6cm. Set aside 6cm from the edge of the bead at the level of the first loop and place point C7. We connect points C1 and C7 with a smooth curve. From point C7 downwards, the pick-up line continues parallel to the edge line.

Note.
The lower collar can be either cut-off or one-piece with a shelf of the product.

When making a collar pattern, do not forget about the difference between the upper and lower collar.

I remind you. The pattern of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3mm larger than the pattern of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part away from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without tightening or deformation - that’s it. So that during the basting process the stitching line does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of perekant throughout the entire flight - that's two. And ultimately, to ensure a good fit of the collar, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
After making a collar pattern, it's best to test it on inexpensive fabric to make sure it looks exactly as you expected.

We offer as an example several options for different configurations of the collar departure line, which can be designed on the same basis. Don't limit yourself to instructions, listen to your desires and create for your own pleasure.

There are other ways to design collars. We will consider them in our next articles.
We are also preparing a separate article about the intricacies of cutting and the features of collar processing technology.

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