I present to your attention another photo master class from the Polish craftswoman Ilona SzczD™sna. From newspaper tubes you can weave a lid for a basket, a very beautiful and unusual pattern. To perform such a pattern, the tubes are stained before weaving. In this version, two colors are used: black and brown. On a personal note, I would recommend that for dark-colored tubes that perform the main wicker pattern, take not newspapers, but magazine pages. Magazine tubes are easier to work with, they are soft, docile and just made for braiding) They are also great for creating flowers

For all women, I want to make a useful digression regarding the health of our beloved soul mates. On the pages of the womenhealthnet.ru health magazine, you can read an article about male thrush, another name is candidiasis. I think it will be useful for you to learn about the forms of manifestation of this disease, as well as ways to prevent this common men's trouble)

So, we are looking at a photo tutorial on weaving the main pattern for the lid of a round laundry basket. Let's start with 12 tubes for the first row and 12 transverse tubes for the second row

We braid with a dark tube, as shown in the photo

Now we draw a circle on paper, apply our braid and lay the tubes around the circumference

Weave a pigtail with two tubes

That's all) I wish you all success in your work!

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Before you start weaving a square box, you need to learn how to make a square bottom. We will warn you right away that the square shape often causes difficulties for beginners, so beginners are advised to start with small round baskets. You can get acquainted with the order of weaving such baskets in our last article.

There are several ways to make a square bottom:

1. Use ordinary plywood (we will talk about it in more detail below);
2. Weave the bottom using tubes, the bottom will turn out beautiful, wicker. But this option for beginners at the initial stage will be a little difficult;
3. A piece of corrugated cardboard pasted over with paper, wallpaper or fabric can act as the bottom for a wicker box.

Let's first consider this option for making a bottom.

Cardboard bottom covered with vinyl wallpaper

Maintaining geometry while weaving a rectangular bottom is one of the most difficult tasks for a beginner. In such cases, a cardboard bottom is used, which is in no way inferior to a wicker one.

In order to make a cardboard bottom we need:

• Vinyl wallpapers. You can replace them with anything: from plain paper to fabric;
• adhesive pva;
• Cardboard with double corrugation.

From the cardboard we cut out the bottom of the sizes we need. Wallpaper must be divided into two rectangles of different areas. We cut the first to fit the bottom, and make the second a little larger (for bending).

Thoroughly coat the cardboard with glue on one side. We take a blank of a larger area and put cardboard on it. Turning over, smooth the wallpaper with a polyurethane spatula to remove all bubbles. Of course, you can do without it, but such a tool will simplify the work and make it better.

Smoothed wallpaper sticks in minutes! Having smeared the base with glue, we firmly press the bend to the cardboard, as if pulling it from the edges to the center.

Important! In some cases, the wallpaper may not stick to each other. In such situations, it is recommended to glue the corners with a more powerful adhesive.

Next, apply pva to the base and firmly press a smaller piece of wallpaper (cut according to the size of the bottom). After that, smooth and expel the bubbles with the same spatula. The bottom is ready!

Don't be alarmed if the corners are slightly off. Glue them with a more powerful glue, for example, polymer "Master", "Dragon" or "Titan".

Now, so that during the night the bottom does not arch and dry thoroughly, it must be put under pressure. After a day, it will be possible to proceed to the next stage of weaving a box of newspaper tubes: creating holes for the racks.

To do this, we need an awl with an extension and a rather sharp tip. Holes need to be made at the ends of the bottom around its entire perimeter, at a distance of about 2.5 cm from each other. Note! The awl should go straight. Do not damage the bottom walls.

Now you need to glue the racks in each hole.

Lubricate the holes with pva glue, and remove its excess with a cloth. The deeper you manage to place the rack, the stronger the structure will be.

Compared to bottoms made by gluing racks between two blanks (shown in the photo below), this method is particularly elegant. Products are thin and neat, which is great for creating small baskets and boxes.

In order for the glue to grab well and we were sure that the racks would not fall out, it is necessary to leave the bottom for a couple of hours to dry. After that, you can safely continue to work.

As a precaution, we will make the inside of the box on the side where the smaller piece of wallpaper was pasted. This is done in case the basket is placed on a damp surface.

In this case, nothing will peel off, since the outer edge is wrapped with wallpaper. Also, to protect against moisture and give the structure greater strength, the bottom is covered with acrylic lacquer.

Let's start raising the racks. You need to do this as follows:

Taking an auxiliary, new tube, we start it under the rack (pay attention to the photo below). Next, we bend the rack, turning it under the neighboring ones and lifting it up. Repeat this action with all the other tubes.

Important! Pay attention to the corner! In order for the corner post to maintain its position, it is necessary to take it towards you (see the photo below).

Next, we bring the previous rack under it and raise the corner up. Thus, the original corner post seems to hug the new corner post and lead it behind the next one. This method allows you to get an even angle.

Having done this around the perimeter of the bottom, take out the auxiliary tube and start the last remaining rack in its place. As a result, we got a neat bottom.

Now the main task is to beautifully braid the resulting frame in any convenient way, with chintz weaving or with a rope.

Paper for the bottoms or imitation wrinkled fabric / leather.

In case wallpapering cardboard seems too banal or just doesn't suit your taste, don't be afraid to experiment! For example, use regular A4 sheets or watercolor paper.

Take an ordinary sheet of A4 office paper and lightly spray it on both sides with a spray bottle. Next, crush into a lump, making small folds, and hold in your fist. This is necessary so that each fold is well saturated with water and slightly loosened. Carefully unfold the wet sheet of paper and place it on the film.

We take a brush and paint the sheet on one side with a light stain. Turning it over, paint dark.

Advice! It will be much easier to turn the sheet over and not damage its integrity if you cover it with a second piece of film, turn it to the other side and remove the piece on which the paper was originally located.

A very interesting pattern appears on the front side of the paper: veins dyed with dark stain appear through the light one.

After drying, the paper will slightly “shrink” and outwardly begin to resemble skin. Before gluing it to the cardboard, it is recommended to spray the sheet from the spray gun on one side.

After varnishing such bottoms, they turn out to be unique and quite attractive.

Alena Bugrova offered her step-by-step video tutorial for decorating the bottom of a wicker basket. This method requires more effort and time and consists in the multilayer application of patina. The result will pleasantly surprise you!

Weaving a square bottom from newspaper tubes using a loom

Without a machine, a beginner in this business will not be able to keep the racks in the correct position. They can taper towards the center, taking away the geometry of the bottom, so getting an even rectangle without having experience behind you is not easy. There are several types of homemade machines. Let's consider each of them separately.

Machine No. 1 - arched perforated plastic corner

Such a machine is constructed using an arched drywall profile. It rigidly fixes the racks and dimensions of the product. In one of the parts of the corner (where there are holes), the tubes are inserted and not removed until the end of weaving, and the other (where there are recesses) is used to actively move the racks when creating the bottom. The opposite ends of the tubes are placed precisely in these chamfers.

Step by step and in detail the topic of weaving on this machine was covered by Olga Ladoga. Watch the tutorial in this video:

To maintain evenness and shape consistency, it is recommended to substitute skewers or knitting needles to the extreme racks.

In order for weaving to be comfortable and enjoyable, one condition must be observed. tubes used as racks, must be absolutely dry, and workers (used directly in weaving) - wet.

There are several ways to braid the racks: “calico” (you need one tube) and “reverse rope” (you need 2). Whipping chintz, you need to take turns winding the tube behind the rack and in front of it. When weaving with a “reverse rope”, the bottom will turn out to be more even, and will not bend.

You can braid the racks as follows: in case you weave with “calico”, leave the ends of the working tubes on the sides, approximately every 2-3 rows. In the future, they will be side racks. The result should be the following:

How to achieve this:

However, if you braid the racks completely, leaving no ends, then you need to add tubes to the two bare walls. This is done at the end of the work, after we remove the bottom from the machine.

With this type of work, glue new racks every 3 rows (see the photo below):

After that, it is recommended to braid the racks with a simple rope, preferably 2 rows. Thus, they are firmly fixed. And only after that it is already possible to raise the racks.

Machine No. 2 - cardboard combined with clothespins

If you do not have the opportunity to make a machine from PVC corners, make it from simple improvised materials, for example, from a piece of cardboard. Just fasten the racks with clothespins, at the distance you need from each other. Important! Racks must be strictly fixed on one side and movable on the other.

Taking a piece of cardboard, draw stripes on it at a distance of 1.5-1.8 cm.

To each line, observing the line, we attach newspaper tubes using clothespins. The tubes can also be fixed with masking tape, instead of clothespins. The adhesive tape can be easily removed without leaving any residue.

Machine No. 3 - foam plastic (or cardboard) in combination with tailor's pins

As a material for the manufacture of the machine, many use foam plastic, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The softness of the material allows you to stick tailor's pins into it, which can even be replaced with toothpicks. They serve as a kind of limiter for the tubes, in the process of braiding they are not taken to the sides. The distance between the posts can be made 2-2.5 cm, depending on your preference.

The weaving pattern on this machine is discussed step by step in the video:

Keeping right angles

Often, craftswomen who have taken up this business for the first time have difficulties with the evenness of the corner posts. To achieve perfect evenness of the corners, it is necessary to weave on a rigid form! The corners must be sharp. For this, not only a cardboard box of the shape you need is suitable, but also other improvised materials that can keep their shape well. It is possible to use even large children's LEGO sets.

When raising the racks, remember that the extreme ones should pass exactly in the center of the corner. Before you start braiding the walls, it is recommended to insert 2 additional racks into the corner. Thus, this corner post will not be single, but triple.

Olga Ladoga explains the basic principles of braiding corners in her master class:

Weaving a large laundry box

If you are just starting to weave, we advise you to use a cardboard bottom. It will be difficult to take on the implementation of a wicker bottom without some preparation: after all, you need to follow the instructions and monitor the evenness of the corners and each rack.

Since the newspaper tube laundry basket is designed for a large load, in the case of a cardboard bottom, it is recommended to make a bottom double: so that the racks are located between two sheets of cardboard.

If you are planning to use plywood, then the bottom of the bottom for the linen box can be made single, in this case, the racks must be fixed as tightly as possible with a furniture stapler and polymer glue. To prevent the staples from being visible, you need to take plywood from 6 mm thick, otherwise they will come out from the inside.

When forming double bottom plywood or MDF, it will look much neater if you take two sheets 4 mm thick. There will be no joints, the bottom will be smooth both inside and out.

If your choice still fell on corrugated cardboard, you will need two blanks made according to a template. Don't forget to cover them with wallpaper or other paper equivalents. Between these blanks we glue the racks on polymer glue (look at the photo below)! This will give the structure more strength.

Leave to dry under pressure overnight. After that, we braid around the perimeter with at least one row of ropes. You can braid with a rope in 3 or more tubes, or you can - in 2 tubes. This step will save us from the gaps between the blanks.

Now, in a way already familiar to us, we raise the racks up, turning them over the next one, and align them.

If you start the racks for the second adjacent one, the frame will take on the following form:

Now it remains only to braid the racks with any of the patterns. For beginners, "chintz" may be suitable, for weaving which takes a minimum amount of material. Having put the form inside, we proceed to weaving with moistened tubules. We continue to the height we need.

When weaving with a “simple rope”, about one and a half times more material is spent than when weaving with “chintz”.

You can finish the job by cutting the racks. Paint the resulting “stumps” with the same solution that was used to paint the tubes so that ugly cuts are not visible.

Now the box needs to be primed. Mix the following ingredients in 1:1 proportions: varnish and water, or water and pva glue. After that, the casket must be thoroughly greased and dried.

Leave it on for at least a day. After a day, it will become stiff and will creak pleasantly. Then we cover it with acrylic varnish in 1-2 layers and let it dry.

Rectangular lid with inner rim

In order to make such a cover, you need to follow the following sequence of actions:

We glue 2 racks to the cardboard, as shown in the photo.

Next, having applied glue, we attach the second piece of cardboard, and send our frame to dry under pressure.

Weave with a “rope” to the sizes we need, braiding both racks. The size must not exceed the inside size of the box.

Having tried on, and making sure that the lid does not reach the edges of a couple of centimeters, we continue to braid already only one rack, bending the second. It will serve as the beginning of our future side. For the convenience of weaving, you can put books under the cover.

Having reached the desired size, turn it over and proceed to weaving the side of 2-3 rows. Then we cut off the racks and again try on the lid on the box.

Since the corners turned out to be not strong enough, these racks must be bent under the side, fixed with glue, and then cut off. Since the rest of the weave is dense, we simply cut off the rest of the racks.

A box of newspaper tubes can serve not only as a laundry basket, but also as a storage for toys. Singing them is no more difficult than knitting, and the possibilities are very diverse. In a similar way, you can make things of various sizes: it can be a small box or chest, very useful in everyday life.

Get inspired with us and create something beautiful!

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A box with a lid made of paper tubes - a master class with step-by-step photos.

Box dimensions - 34 cm × 19 cm, depth 16 cm.

Materials and tools:

Stages of work:

tubules

First, let's wind the tubes. I will twist from store advertisements - I cut (more conveniently with a knife) a sheet into two parts (photo 1), stripes come out a little more than 10 cm, 7-10 cm is enough for us (photo 2).

We twist the tubes, as shown in photos 3, 4, 5. At the end, drip glue on the corner (photo 6). I’ll note right away that only 452 tubes went into my box.

It turns out such tubes (photo 7).

For work, we need some dry tubes (racks), and some wet ones (workers). I moisten the working tubes from a spray bottle (photo 8), but so that the ends remain dry (3-5 cm). Then we twist them in a file. In photo 9 you can see - the ends remain outside! Let the tubes soak well, leave them for 15-30 minutes and move on to the next step.

Bottom

We take a piece of cardboard and draw stripes on it, the distance between them is 1.5 cm (photo 10).

Then we attach a rack to each strip with a clothespin (photo 11). This will be the bottom, and I have the racks set to the size of the long side of the form.

And now we need working tubes. We begin to weave the bottom - cotton weaving.

We lay the tube so that there is a wide tip on the left (photo 12). Weave the 1st row, as shown in photos 13, 14. At the end of the row, we also leave the tip (photo 15).

During weaving, you will have to build up the tubes. To do this, drip glue into the wide tip (photo 16) and put it on the sharp tip (photo 17).

2nd row: glue the tip of the tube to the rack, as shown in photo 18. We continue to weave (photo 19.) At the end of the row, we “hug” the rack with a working tube (photo 20). Thus weave the 3rd, 4th and 5th row. At the end of the 5th row, leave the tail (photo 21).

6th row (photo 22): we take a new working tube, apply it, leaving, now on the right, a wide tail, we continue to weave. And then we will repeat the 5th and 6th row every two loops on the extreme racks.

The result is such a bottom (photo 23). The size of the bottom corresponds to the size of the bottom of our form.

Add corner posts (Pic 28, 29, 30).

We build up short racks in the same way as we built up the working tubes (photo 31). And we move on to the 3rd stage.

Weave walls

To begin with, let's remove the ends of the working tubes for a while, as shown in photo 32. I marked the extra tip in green, it was formed when we started to weave with two tubes. It can be neatly trimmed or lifted and braided together with the uprights (photo 33). So, I just raise the corner post. Then I attach a temporary tube (greenish, photo 34) to the previous rack, “hug” it with the previous rack (photo 35), and raise this rack under the next rack (photo 36). Thus, we raise all the racks (photo 37.38), when we reach the temporary green tube, remove it and put the last rack in its place, as in photo 39.

We return the working tubes, mind you, at the corner we get two racks each (photo 40, I marked the extra tip in green, which I braided along with the corner ones).

We insert the form into the weaving (it is good to put something heavy in the form, it will be easier to weave).

We glue an additional tube (photo 41), we will weave with three tubes (“a rope of three tubes”). We start weaving from the corner, as shown in photos 42, 43, 44. We weave two rows with this pattern.

On the third row, cut the third tube. We weave again with chintz weaving, but with two tubes at once - first the first is woven, and then the second will always catch up with it (photo 45). At the same time, at the corners, the tube that goes BEHIND the racks “hugs” them first, and then continues weaving in the same way, the second tube simply lies on the racks at the corner (photo 46).

We weave to the height we need and hide the ends of the tubes next to the racks (photo 47, 48).

bend

The bend is called "Rozga".

Pull out the form. We substitute a temporary tube and bend three racks, as in photos 49, 50, 51. Then we take the leftmost, already bent rack, we start it behind the next empty rack (photo 52). Next to it we lay the previous standing rack (photo 53). And so on. Only when two ends stick out, we will take only one - the right one (photo 54).

We reach the temporary tube, remove it and instead of it we insert the next lying rack according to the plan (photo 55). Further, as shown in photo 56-59. We cut off the protruding tips (photo 61).

Lid

The lid is weaved in the same way as the bottom, but we don’t leave tails (photo 63).

We fill the protruding tips, as in the photo 64-66.

Priming, painting

You can prime with a primer or, like me - PVA glue + water 1: 1. We cover the product from all sides, wait for drying (it is better to dry the cover under the load so that it remains even).

When dry, paint. I used white and grayish paint (I added quite a bit of black and brown color to the white) (Pic 67-70).

After the paint has dried, varnish it.

We fix the cover

Now we need an awl and clamps. We make holes with an awl, thread the collars and cut off the extra tips (photo 71-74).

The beauty!

Make your own box!

Anastasia Yata

This time we need to make a fairly roomy and durable box with a lid and handles for storing things.

As always, I will tell you step by step how to do this and I hope you will be satisfied with the result.

1. Take a large cardboard box. I have a box measuring 50x50x50 cm.

2. Cut off her top covers:

3. We braid the box with a "rope" to the very top with paper tubes. I explained in detail how to do this.

We need to complete steps 3 to 13 as described in this lesson.

As a result, we should get such a braided box:

4. We start making pens.

Handles can be made from anything: sticks, twigs, rings, tight ropes and twine.

For this purpose, I took a cardboard core from under a roll of food foil. The same core is found in many rolls, for example, in a roll of plastic garbage bags.

5. Cut the cardboard core in half:

6. Then we take thick paper and make four such strips from it:

7. We wrap the strips around the future handles as shown in the photo below.

Before this, it is necessary to grease with glue that part of the strips that will be in contact with the handles, and at the junction of the strips. I use Moment glue.

Secure the connection of the strips with clothespins for a while.

8. Then we take a sharp knife and make cuts in the box where we want to see our handles.

We insert the ends of the strips into these slots.

On the inside of the box, we should have the ends of the strips:

9. Align the ends of the strips so that the handles look even, spread them in different directions and fix them with adhesive tape:

10. As a result, we should get these handles on both sides of the box:

If the rings of the strips with which we bend around the handle are not smeared with glue, then the handle can be removed from the rings and used to carry, for example, another similar box.

However, for greater strength, I advise you to glue the rings of the strips with glue.

To do this, we take the halves of the box lid, which we cut off at the very beginning of work, and glue them to the bottom of our box:

12. Now you can paint and varnish our box:

In fact, you can paint products woven from paper tubes with any paint. However, in order for the wicker product to have the natural look of weaving from rods, it is best to use wood stains.

For example, I use these:

This box is painted with a brush twice with water stain under oak and once with texturol.

Texturol has varnish in its composition, so it was not necessary to varnish the box.

Newspaper tubes are completely stained. My box is made from magazine tubes. They usually cannot be 100% covered, but they are stronger, so I prefer them.

13. Now let's start making a cover for the box.

We take the other two halves of the box lid, which we cut off at the very beginning of work, and connect them together with adhesive tape:

14. We draw lines, stepping back from the edges at an equal distance. For me it was 5 cm:

15. We make holes on one of the lines for future racks:

16. We insert the racks into the holes and fasten them with clothespins from above:

On the back of the lid, leave the ends of the racks:

And glue them with tape:

17. We braid the racks with a "rope" to the top mark. How to weave a "rope" in the forward and reverse direction (not in a circle), I wrote in detail.

18. Now we have a somewhat difficult stage, but with due patience it is possible to cope with it.

First, we make markings for future racks on all sides of the resulting weave, with the exception of the side where we finished it, since there are already racks there, and they just need to be increased if necessary.

We make holes for the racks in all marks.

19. Now, before inserting the racks into the holes, you need to pass them through the last row of finished weaving tubes.

This is a bit of a chore, but it is necessary for the lid to be strong and neat.

Be careful: you can not miss a single rack:

20. The ends of the racks, as in the previous case, are threaded onto the wrong side of the lid

and glue them with tape:

21. We do this with each side of our future cover:

Please note that a separate rack must be threaded in each corner of the cover:

22. Now we braid all the racks in a circle with a “rope” until the weaving is even with the edges of the cover.

Usually the corners build up more slowly than the sides of the lid and may "lag behind". As a result of this, the weaving is not square, but semicircular.

In this case, it is necessary to wrap the corner posts with working tubes twice before continuing to weave on the next side of the cardboard. Usually it is enough to do this two or three times:

23. When the weave is equal to the edges of the lid, it is necessary to make a fitting on the box and weave a few additional rows if necessary.

24. If the lid has reached the desired size, turn the box over and put it on weaving:

25. Gradually bend the racks vertically upwards and begin weaving around the box.

This is also a bit labor intensive.

Since we cannot fasten the racks on top with clothespins, they resist, and it is not possible to immediately make the weave vertical. However, after 2 - 3 rows, the weaving is usually leveled, and the work goes easily.

You just have to try to keep the racks upright and level.

26. We create the height of the lid we need (usually 5 - 7 cm) and try on the box:

During this fitting, it is necessary to knead all the corner parts of the lid with your fingers so that they are smoother and fit more tightly to the box.

27. Then remove the cover. We turn it over and cut the racks, leaving the ends 3-4 cm long:

29. Now you can paint and varnish the cover inside and out.

30. While our lid is drying, we will decorate the box from the inside.

We take paper, wallpaper or fabric, cut pieces of the required size and glue the box from the inside.

I took the fabric and glued on the PVA glue.

However, whatever material you take, you need to make a small margin and leave it on top:

31. Then you need to fill this stock between the weave and the walls of the box:

33. Now let's finish with the lid.

After the lid has dried, you can decorate its inside.

We take the same material with which we decorated the box from the inside and glue the cardboard part of the lid with it using PVA glue.

We fill the edges of the material under the cardboard and glue the corners and sides of the cardboard. I do it with glue Moment.

OK it's all over Now.

Our box is ready. Now it remains to find a place for it and fill it with things.

This time I decided to analyze what it cost me to create such a box.

So, to create it, I spent:

One unnecessary cardboard box
- five old magazines "Seven days"
- one old sheet
- one cardboard core from the finished roll of food foil
- some stain and glue

Not bad, right? A very small price for the pleasure of having a Provence-style item in your interior, plus a pleasant experience while watching a detective series.

I wish you the same!