Chemical perm on boomerangs. Carving is a light perm of hair. Types of spiral curl

20.06.2020

Many girls like to experiment with their appearance and change their hairstyles. Those who prefer curly hair are aware of the variety of shapes, textures of curls, and also that “chemistry” helps to become the owner of curls for a long time. One of these methods of long-term styling is vertical perm.

Let's find out everything about this styling method - who it suits, the execution technology, the advantages and disadvantages, what kind of tools and compositions are used, and also how to do a vertical perm of hair at home.

What is a vertical perm

Perm was invented in a vertical way back in the 60s of the twentieth century, however, it gained wide popularity only by the end of the 80s, when long curly hair came into fashion.

The advantageous difference of this method is that the length of the hair does not affect the quality of the curl - the curl is equally elastic from root to tip.

The vertical winding method is successfully used for curling haircuts of any style. This is the only way you can curl hair cut "under the caret".

Perm in a vertical way is suitable for even the toughest and heaviest hair and looks impressive after a long time. Vertical styling visually increases the volume of the hairstyle, however, significantly reduces the length of the hair due to the intense curl.

Hair curling scheme

Before embarking on a vertical perm, it is necessary to study the scheme for winding hair of various lengths and follow it exactly.

The layout of the bobbins for long and medium hair is the same. For short haircuts, there is a separate wrapping procedure. Failure to comply with the conditions of creping will inevitably lead to the curls sticking out in different directions. In general, the appearance of the hairstyle after such a curl will turn out to be careless, with the effect of incomplete winding.

Crepe for long and medium hair

The standard step-by-step creping scheme for the vertical perm method for medium and long hair is as follows.

Divide the hair into squares starting from the lower occipital part of the head.
The area of the square should not exceed the diameter of the base of the curler.
You need to wind the strands on the bobbins in one direction.
Make sure that the hair is not in tension, but simply wound tightly.
It is necessary to start creping strands from the lower occipital part, gradually rising. Having reached the crown, proceed to winding the temporal sections. Having finished working with the temples, go to the top of the head. The uppermost zone of the hairline is wound from the frontal part, moving towards the top of the head.

Vertical perm on very long hair (below the waist) is often difficult, because the wound strand does not fit on the curlers. This problem is easily solved if the rest of the hair continues to be wound on another bobbin.

Crepe for short hair

It should be remembered that there are exceptions to every rule and not all haircut styles can be wound according to the standard scheme. So, winding for vertical "chemistry" on short hair must be done in a circle. You should go down from the crown to the occipital and temporal zones, while capturing the parietal part of the hairline.

the trimmed lower occipital part of a short haircut does not wind up

This scheme is due to the peculiarities of short haircuts, where the clipped lower occipital part simply does not reach out to make at least one turn around the bobbin.

The nuances of creping for haircuts with bangs

bangs do not twist

Technological nuances also exist with vertical curling on medium hair, if there is a contrasting bang. Owners of the Cleopatra bangs or any other, the length of which is shorter than the bridge of the nose, if you want to make a perm, you need to take into account the following subtleties.

The winding of the parietal zone is made from the crown. The direction of the curler should be "from the face."
The bang itself is not wound, because after curling it will visually shorten, and will stick out in different directions.

If you do not want to leave a straight bang, then it is better to postpone the curling procedure until it grows at least to the middle of the nose.

Tools for vertical "chemistry"

Curling by the vertical method cannot be done with conventional tools. To do this, you need special curlers for vertical curling, which come in two varieties - cone-shaped and straight with a hole at the base. They are made of thermoceramic, plastic or silicone. The ceramic tool is most often used for permanent "chemistry".

Bobbins for vertical perms also need special ones. They come in two shapes - spiral and straight, and also have a hole. For manufacturing use: wood, silicone or plastic. In work, wooden bobbins are very inconvenient, because they absorb an unpleasant odor, dry out for a long time and crack if they are dried on a radiator or other heat sources.

conical curlers and spiral bobbins

Before you start winding, you need to pass the strand into the hole at the base of the curler. This will require a special puller, the design of which resembles a needle threader. A strand of hair separated by partings should first be passed through the threading device, and the puller itself should be inserted into the hole of the bobbin or curler and only then wound. This is necessary so that the hair is held securely and does not unwind.

When "chemistry" is done on cone curlers, then the diameter of the second bobbin should be the same as the lower part of the first. If you do not follow this rule, then the finished curl will be uneven and broken.

Papillots for horizontal "chemistry" are not suitable for the vertical curling method.

Hair breakage test

In order for the curl to be elastic and retain its spiral shape for a long time, compounds based on thioglycolic acid and high concentration alkaline agents are used, which actively affect the hair. Therefore, before curling, do not forget to test one strand for brittleness. To do this, cut off a few hairs and treat them with a curling agent. After the exposure time, check the strand for stretching and breaking. If its structure has become wadded, rubbery or torn, then the vertical curling method should be abandoned in favor of a more gentle method.

If you are not going to deviate from your intentions and have definitely decided to do this particular type of long-term styling, then use the hair restoration procedures in a beauty salon. After the course of treatment, the test should be repeated. If the strand under the influence of the drug has not changed its properties, then feel free to perm. But in the case when the hair is still breaking, then the vertical “chemistry” will still have to be abandoned.

How to do a vertical perm

The technology for performing vertical perm requires certain professional skills, since the wetting of the strands with the composition is carried out immediately before winding. This is due to the fact that if it is applied in advance, the part of the strand pulled through the hole of the bobbin remains untreated with the preparation.

Execution technology

To obtain a good result from performing a vertical perm, the following conditions must be observed.

Rinse hair thoroughly with a deep cleansing shampoo, without the use of balm or conditioner.
Divide the hairline with partings into squares equal to the base of the curlers.
Before winding, moisten each strand with a curling agent using a sponge.
Maintain the exact time specified in the instructions for the drug.
Wash off the product with plenty of warm water without removing the bobbin.
Apply the fixing phase to the hair and wait half the indicated time.
Remove the bobbins, apply the fixing phase again and keep it for the remaining time.
Wash your hair with a stabilizing shampoo to stop the chemical reaction inside the hair. Then treat with a special balm that smoothes the scaly layer.

Laying

In order not to break the shape of the curls, you should use special curlers or curling irons for vertical curling of hair for styling. If you prefer curling irons, then you need to choose them with a thermostat. This allows you to control the operating temperature of the heated surface of the tool so as not to damage the hair structure. After a perm, a slight porosity may appear inside the hair, so styling with high temperatures is contraindicated for them. Thermal exposure should not exceed 190 °C.

Curling irons for vertical curling of hair differ from ordinary ones in the absence of a special clamping “tongue”. The shape of the tool for such styling can be:

cylindrical;
cylindrical with a spiral recess;
conical;
conical with a spiral slot;
oval;
triangular;
square.

The last three forms of flats are rarely found on the market. You can buy them in specialized professional stores for masters of the beauty industry.

The notch on the curling iron helps to make curls of elastic texture.

Vertical chemical biowave

Perm in a vertical way implies a hard, elastic curl with a pronounced texture, therefore, potent compounds are used for this procedure. But you can carry out a vertical curl of hair in a gentle way. In this case, biological preparations are used, which consist of a complex of amino acids and gently form a disulfide bond. Vertical chemical biowave will be distinguished by the lightness of the resulting curls, but will last no more than three months on the hair.

Gentle compositions with a low concentration of active ingredients are not recommended for vertical perming of hair. A weakly formed disulfide bond will give a quick deformation of the curls.

The technological process of vertical "biochemistry" is no different from the standard method of this perm.

Biowave in the vertical way of wrapping on boomerang curlers

Vertical waving at home

If you decide to do “chemistry” outside the hairdresser, you should know that it is strictly forbidden to deviate from the technological instructions for the curling procedure.

Do not replace special shampoos and balms with homemade daily care products.
Professional curlers for vertical curling at home cannot be replaced with household ones.
Tools for home use cannot be used for procedures provided by beauty salons.

If your decision to conduct "chemistry" at home has remained unchanged, and you have everything you need for this at hand, then you should practice your skills in working with bobbins and a puller. You need to learn how to quickly wind your hair on curlers, since a potent composition is used that is applied to the strands before creping.

Make sure the area where you plan to do the perm is well ventilated. Don't forget to test for skin sensitivity. This will help to avoid allergic reactions during the procedure.

Be sure to use protective waterproof accessories (peignoir, gloves). Do not use metal tools when working with chemicals.

In conclusion, we recall that vertical perm is a long-term styling procedure carried out by exposing the hair to a concentrated preparation. The main advantages of vertical “chemistry” are that it allows you to forget about curling irons and irons for six months, solves the problem of oily roots, and also visually increases the volume of hair. But every procedure has drawbacks and vertical perm is no exception. The main disadvantage is that it cannot be carried out on weakened hair. Home conditions are not entirely suitable for a professional vertical perm, however, if you follow the wrapping rule, you can get quite a good result. In general, vertical "chemistry" is a great way to become curly for a long period of time.

An example of a vertical curl - before and after

How beautiful curly hair looks! They make a real coquette out of a woman. Curly locks neatly frame her face and create a rather striking look. But it is very difficult for lovely ladies to do such styling every day. It takes about an hour for it. How to be? Give your hair under the power of chemistry? But this procedure significantly spoils the hairline. However, the problem can be solved without such a hard impact. Today, among hairdressing services, light perm - carving is in great demand.

What is hair carving

For a long time, women have been in fashion with long straight hair. Today, you can meet many of the fair sex with beautiful curly curls. At the same time, women make curls on both long and short hair. The hairdressing service carving hair helps them a lot in this.

The name of the procedure came to us from the English language. Carving is translated as follows: “figured carving” or “carved work”. This interpretation is very similar in perception to the effect obtained after the procedure. Carving is also called a light perm.

So, carving is understood as long-term styling in waves, which lasts for about two months on straight hair. It is she who helps women to have beautiful curls without spending a lot of time.

Carving is suitable for different hair lengths

At its core, carving is a perm, which is done using special products that do not have a harsh effect on the hair. During the procedure, the scalp is also not affected. Such a long-term perm helps many girls not only get curls, but also get rid of the lack of volume, naughty and tangled hair.

The procedure is carried out with the help of especially high-quality compounds. They are sold only in specialized points or on the Internet. Remember, in order not to harm your hair, you need to buy hair carving products in trusted stores.

Important! It must be remembered that the hair after the carving procedure requires very careful care. Be sure to choose only hair products without sulfates, silicones and aggressive additives so that the effect lasts as long as possible. Mulsan cosmetic is a multiple winner of natural cosmetics ratings. This brand produces exceptionally safe products without aggressive chemical components. All cosmetics are suitable for use after the carving procedure, as well as after the Botox and keratin straightening procedures. With confidence we recommend the official online store mulsan.ru

What is hair carving and how is it done - video

What is carving for hair and how often can it be done

In addition to the desire of the woman herself to have curls, carving can be resorted to in the following cases:

if your hair is oily. The procedure will dry them well. After it, the need to wash your hair will occur less often;
if the hair is coarse. After carving, the curls on the head will be much easier to fit;
if the hair is thin and naughty. After carving, the strands will look voluminous and wavy;
with a lack of time for daily styling;
if you want to radically change the image.

Carving can be done every 2-3 months.

Carving on the hair looks impressive

Benefits and harms, advantages and disadvantages of carving

Carving, as a procedure, has its positive and negative sides.

Advantages of the procedure

The advantages of carving include:

gentle effect on the hair;
the existence of several options for long-term perms (small curls, medium curls and large curls);
maintaining hair styling after carving is much longer;
natural and very natural styling. When compared with chemistry, then when carving, the hair does not look burnt;
long preservation of the effect: on ordinary hair, beautiful curls last 1–3 months, and on dyed hair for six months;
no need to restore dry ends of the hair. Since the composition of carving very gently affects the structure of the hair. The wavy effect will come off on its own over time;
budget cost, so any woman can use the service.

Harmful effects and consequences of a light perm

The disadvantages of carving include:

the need to create styling, the hairstyle does not always look perfect. You still have to apply force to it and apply styling products to your hair before shaping;
lack of pronounced curls. This effect can be achieved only with the help of biowave;
an unexpected end to the carving effect is possible. Curls can straighten ahead of time or go away gradually;
possible change in the shade of dyed hair after the procedure;
no effect on very thick and thick hair;
retention of an unpleasant odor on the hair for some time.

Contraindications for long-term waving

There are situations when doing this modern procedure is not recommended:

if a woman has brittle, damaged and, moreover, severely split ends;
if the head has just been dyed with hair dye. You can safely go for light chemistry if two weeks have already passed, and if not, it is better to wait;
if a woman has a tendency to allergic reactions;
when taking certain medications, in particular, in the treatment of hormonal therapy;
if the hair is dry and bleached. Women with other previous perms are at risk.

The procedure can be performed on pregnant women and nursing mothers. However, it should be remembered that the chemical composition for curling has a rather pungent odor.

The difference between hair carving and biowave, chemistry

Carving, bio- and perm help create long-term styling. Only from each other they differ in the following:

less time to maintain the effect of carving compared to chemical or biowave;
a more gentle effect on curls in a light curl than in chemistry, since the carving composition does not penetrate into the very structure of the hair;
hair care during biowave, since the composition of the product used in this procedure includes the necessary biological protein, which is not found in carving and chemical products.

The choice of procedure will depend entirely on the desire of the woman. Only she must decide what she needs: long-term styling, healthy hair or a gentle effect.

Types of carving for hair

Carving is done in several versions. Main types:

traditional perm. After it, the waves are distributed evenly along the entire length. To obtain curls, curlers are used, which are twisted on the hair;
vertical curl. Instead of ordinary curlers, vertical ones are used (or in another way they are called spiral). Curling is equally suitable for both short and long hair. The styling effect is mesmerizing: pronounced curly curls with amazing volume;
texturing. This type is often used when you need to modify some kind of hairstyle. The result is always original. With the help of curlers, accents are made on the hair in the right places and thereby create a special style;
local perm. The method is used when they want to lift the hair at the roots. For these purposes, the master winds the curlers not along the entire length of the hair, but only at their base. This method also works in reverse. For example, when you want to wind only one tip.

Features of the procedure for short, medium, long hair and possible combinations with haircuts

Light chemistry has its own characteristics. Of course, it is better to do the procedure in the salon. Specialists in their field will be able to perform carving neat and beautiful. At home, getting the desired curls is not always possible.

Before the procedure, it is necessary to take into account the length of the hair. Carving is best for medium hair. Of course, it can be done on short and long ones, you just need to choose the right curlers. For example, for very short hair, small curls wound around small bobbins are best suited.

For short hair, it is best to choose small curls.

The thickness and density of the hair is also of particular importance in this procedure. Strong hair may not be curled or the result will not be such a beautiful effect. Carving is suitable for owners of thin and thin strands - the hair will become voluminous and obedient.

Bangs always make styling unique. However, carving does not always fit with it. So, small curls do not fit bangs. But medium soft waves will look good. Another image with bangs will be well decorated with a curl of only one tip.

For owners of bangs, a light perm may not be suitable

Popular carving without bangs. In this version, the curls frame the woman's face very beautifully, making the whole image much more interesting.

Haircut and carving are very suitable for each other. At the same time, the curls themselves can be both voluminous and very small. Bangs may or may not.

Carving and cascading haircuts also look very good. Such an image will adorn a woman of any age.

Curls look spectacular in combination with a cascading haircut

Types of curlers and the size of curls

To create carving, curlers of different types are used:

voluminous. With their help create very large curls. The result is romantic waves with good root volume;
bobbin. The diameter of these devices is quite small. Due to their size, they allow you to create African curls;
spiral. These special bobbins are shaped like a spiral. They are always used for vertical curling. Practice has shown that spiral curls last longer than ordinary ones. Such curlers allow you to create many curly curls that visualize volume well;
boomerangs (rollers). They have different diameters and a special material - soft foam rubber with wire. Well suited for both large and small curls.

Types of curlers - photo

Volumetric curlers allow you to create large soft curls
Thanks to the bobbins, small perky curls are obtained Spiral curlers create the effect of waves on the hair

Soft boomerang curlers are easy to use, they can be used to make curls of any size.

Depending on the size of the curlers used, you can get different curls:

large. To create them, take curlers of large diameter. The curls from them are quite large;
medium. Here they take bobbins with an average diameter. The result will please its owner with lightness and fluffiness;
small. For their creation, only bobbins of a very small diameter are suitable. As a result, the volume is stunning.

What carving looks like on large, medium and small curlers - photo

Curling on large diameter curlers allows you to get beautiful large curls Medium size curlers can be used on hair of different lengths and creates pronounced curls Curling on bobbins allows you to create small and very lush curls

How is carving done and how long does the procedure take

Carving technology is not very complicated. Its technology is the same as perm. In time, the whole process takes about 2-3 hours, depending on the characteristics of the woman's hair. The whole procedure consists of the following steps:

Preparation. This stage, like others, will be carried out by the master in the salon. First, he selects the necessary curlers and prepares the preparation. Then she washes the client's head and lightly dries her hair with a towel. After that, the woman sits down in a chair. The master covers her shoulders with a protective cloth and combs her hair well.
Hair Styling. From the total mass of the hair, the master selects only those strands that need to be curled initially and winds them according to the hairdressing technique.
Application of a special composition. They moisten the hair after the twisting of the hair is completed. The reagents allow the hair to keep curls long enough.
Curl retention. To create the desired effect, twisted hair moistened with the composition is left alone for 10-20 minutes. The exact exposure time depends on the brand of the product. The master periodically checks how the process of obtaining a curl is going. To do this, he spins one curler at a time.
Flushing. When time passes, the composition is washed off with warm water, while the curlers do not unwind. Excess water is simply blotted.
Application of a neutralizer. With it, the curls are fixed in a given position.
Removing curlers. The master spins all the curlers in the backward direction.
Washing composition.
Drying hair with a hairdryer.

The composition of the preparation for carving

The main requirement that is put forward to the composition is the absence of ammonia. Also banned is the thioglycolate component. If these rules are followed, the carving agent can be considered gentle.

The composition of the preparation for carving is different for all manufacturers. Especially valued are those products where there is more biological basis than chemical components. This combination allows you to very gently affect the structure of the hair. Stylists recommend the following brands:

Londa;
L'Oreal;
Schwarzkopf;
Wella.

For example, Londa's long-term waving product allows you to get a clear curl in just 10 minutes. This is because it contains special fast-acting ingredients that manufacturers intentionally included.

Among the popular brands, the following compositions can also be distinguished: Trendline from Goldwell, GOLDWELL, Indola and others.

How to do carving at home: step by step instructions

You can make your own carving at home. To complete it, you will need:

two bowls:
curlers (shape and size optional);
two sponges, as for the kitchen;
gloves (pair);
two combs;
a plastic cap or a piece of this material;
cotton tourniquet;
towel;
a sheet or towel to cover your shoulders;
gum;
chemical mixture for carving and fixer.

To create curls, you must follow the following instructions:

Rinse your hair well and pat your clean hair dry with a towel.
Comb your hair carefully.
Divide your hair into sections.
Wind the resulting strands on curlers.
Take the product from a pre-purchased kit and blot the curlers with it.
After all the hair is wet, put on a plastic cap on top and cover your head with a warm scarf (you can use a towel).
Look in the instructions for the duration of the composition and withstand it.
Wash your hair without shampoo, while the curlers should not be removed.
Apply a special fixative from the set on top.
Unroll your hair and rinse your head again without shampoo.
Dry the resulting curls.

To keep the curls after home carving longer, you can use the following remedy: mix water and 5% vinegar to a sour taste and rinse your hair with it.

Curling hair step by step - video

How long does the effect last after the procedure

The effect of carving can last from one to six months (depending on the characteristics of the hair). But on average, brightly highlighted curls last 2-3 months. Over time, the hair grows, so the shape of the curls themselves also changes. They just start to fall off. However, carving can be repeated after 3-4 months.

To prolong the life of light chemistry, you need to properly care for your hair. Here are some tips:

after the procedure itself, it is necessary to allow the hair to remember the shape that it has just been given. For these purposes, it is undesirable to use a hair dryer when drying. You just need to dry the curls naturally or, in extreme cases, use a diffuser;
after the procedure, do not wash your hair for two days;
when combing, use only combs with rare teeth;
Swap out your shampoo for a special product for textured hair.
constantly use balms, nourishing masks and other effective care products. They will significantly improve the condition of the hair;
wipe your head carefully after washing, blot more, and do not wring out;
dry hair daily only in a natural way;
do not go to bed if the hair is wet or damp. They must be dried first.
do not use products that contain alcohol. This component harms both the curl and the hair itself.

After curling, it is best to dry the hair naturally, in extreme cases, you can use a hairdryer with a diffuser attachment.

If a lady wants to create a natural styling on her head, then a light perm will need to be applied with a little hair foam and dried with a diffuser. You can also lay your head with large curlers.

If suddenly a woman has a desire to straighten her curls, then she can do this with the help of an iron. Just before styling, you will need to apply a protective agent on your hair. You can also dry your head with a hairdryer, stretching curly hair with brushing.

To make the image perfect, hair after carving must be able to style.

Be sure to use the following tools: moisturizing lotion, comb, foam or mousse, hair dryer with a diffuser nozzle;
Wash your hair first. Use a special shampoo, and make a nourishing mask every seven days;
Dry your hair with a towel, or rather just blot it;
Comb your hair gently;
Apply a fixing agent, stepping back a little from the hair roots.
Start styling your curls with a hair dryer and comb.
If you need to straighten the curls a little, then when laying, slightly pull the comb down or use an iron.
You can also use styling for curly hair.

Indola's curling agent perfectly highlights curls

How to style curly hair - video

How to take care of your hair after curling

According to the reviews of many girls, the hair after carving becomes a little harsh and naughty. Therefore, some ladies, after the wavy effect ends, simply cut them off. To mitigate the effects of carving, you must:

periodically cut the ends for a full restoration of hair;
use only special products for the care of curls;
use combs with natural bristles.

The perm was invented by hairdresser Karl Nessler in November 1906. His first client was his wife. For hair health, permanent waving is certainly not the most useful way, but beauty, as they say, requires sacrifice, and the number of girls turning to beauty salons to get the desired curls is growing.

Ways to perm hair

Hair curling can be divided according to the types of chemical composition that the hair is treated with. Our mothers and grandmothers curled their hair with acid and alkali permanent waving. These methods are still relevant, in addition, acid and alkaline perms stay on the hair for as long as possible - from six months or more.

Acid perm hair

The curling agent penetrates the hair without revealing its outer scales. Thus, a very tight curl is obtained. However, if you have thin and soft hair, this type of curl is contraindicated for you - the curls will quickly lose their shape and stretch out at the roots. For owners of sensitive scalp and dry brittle hair, this type of chemistry is also not suitable, it will completely finish the hair, and you will have to cut your hair very short and treat your hair with masks.

Acid perm using thioglycolic acid is very fragile, lush curls lose their volume in a little over a month. However, this is the most gentle method for hair. This perm is recommended even for recently dyed hair.

Alkaline hair perm

less persistent, lasts up to 3 months. Curls are elastic and look natural. Unlike acid perms, here the drugs penetrate the hair, opening its outer scales. This procedure is gentler on the hair, but still not suitable for many types of hair. If your hair is straight, coarse and heavy, then it will become even less resistant and will last about a month. Alkaline curls are cheaper than acid ones.

Neutral hair curl

has long been known for its emollient properties and is suitable for all hair types. The chemical composition of the drug includes allantoin, the curls are strong and elastic, the curl itself is relatively resistant, it will last from three months to six months, depending on your hair type.

Amino acid hair curler

contains amino acids and proteins. They nourish and treat the hair, which helps to minimize the negative effects of chemicals on the hair. Curls are soft and look natural. Unfortunately, curls are short-lived. This method is not suitable for coarse, heavy and long hair, because. curls will develop very quickly under the weight of their weight

Hair curling "Silk wave"

The composition of the drug includes silk proteins that care for the hair and do not spoil the hair structure. Even bleached hair after such "chemistry" looks healthier.

Hair biowave

The composition of the biowave does not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid, they are replaced with a drug similar to hair molecules that connect the sulfur bridges of the hair. Curling based on such preparations gives hair not only persistent curls, but also gives an absolutely natural and healthy look. There are several biowave technologies, for example, "Angel Curls" or Italian technology using bamboo extract.

Japanese hair curl

with lipid-protein complex LC2 is recommended for weakened hair. It is more resistant than silk, and the biphasic lipid-protein complex regulates the hair's moisture, maintaining shine and elasticity. The cost is about the same as for the "silk wave".

American hair curl

ideal for medium length hair. The difference between the American perm and other types is that it uses special complex designs from Olivia Garden curlers.

root chemistry

The perfect solution for short hair and shoulder-length hair that lacks volume. Root chemistry is also done in the case when permanently curled hair has grown noticeably. Radical chemistry on straight hair will allow you to lift the hair, for example, at the back of the head. The effect of such a perm is lost as the hair grows, and at the roots it will be noticeable in a month. Curling at the ends of the hair is an excellent solution for thin, sparse hair, cut in steps or in a cascade. Hair acquires splendor and serves as an excellent base for creating hairstyles.

Vellaformers have replaced curlers and curlers. In beauty salons, the technology of curling hair using latex bags that compress and curl the hair has recently appeared. Such a device is called wellformers. As a result of using this novelty, you will get a lot of lush, but soft wavy curls. Hair when curled with wellformers should be of medium length, or slightly longer. This is due to the fact that the hair at the roots in this case remains straight.

A good master in a good salon will definitely tell you what type of perm is best for your hair. Before the procedure itself, professionals in their field, first of all, will test the strand for rupture and test with a reagent on the skin. A skin test behind the ear is done to determine if you are allergic to the selected compound. After that, you will be asked to do a test for one strand with the selected drug. This is required in order to determine the concentration of the composition suitable for your hair type. If after using the drug they look dull and unhealthy, then the concentration of the drug is reduced.

In some cases, the master may refuse to perm your hair. For example, if they are discolored or so unhealthy that many of the hairs in the test strand break when pulled. The reason for refusing to perform the procedure may be ordinary henna. It clogs the scales of the hair and prevents the penetration of the composition inside. Before doing chemistry on your hair, you will be offered to make an alcohol-oil complex to draw out the remnants of henna from your hair, but one session is not enough here.

If you have recently dyed your hair, then you need to wait with curling your hair. It is not recommended to do chemistry during the period of "critical days". If you were going to cut your hair and curl it, then first do the chemistry, and after the final haircut, but not vice versa.

If the master immediately offered you a perm without preliminary testing, or only one type of permanent hair waving is practiced in the salon, which may not suit you at all, it is better to look for another master in another salon.

There are two methods of perm: direct and indirect.

direct method. Each strand is moistened with a chemical composition and wound onto bobbins according to the classical scheme.

Winding according to the classical scheme (Fig. 1, a) begins from the lower occipital zone of the head. Then the hair of the middle and upper occipital zones is wound, then the temporal-lateral and, finally, on the parietal. All hair is twisted in the direction of their natural growth.

Indirect method. Wet hair is wound onto bobbins according to any scheme (Fig. 2, b, c), and then moistened with a chemical composition.

a - classical; b - directed; c - variable

Wetting the hair with the composition in this case is carried out in three steps:

* a small amount of the composition is applied to the hair to slightly soften it;

* the average amount of the composition is applied to the hair to thoroughly moisten it;

*carry out a control wetting of the hair.

The composition begins to be applied from the lower occipital zone.

After choosing a method for performing a perm, they begin to wind the hair on bobbins, while considering the following:

the width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin;
the thickness of the wound strand should not be greater than the diameter of the bobbin;
strands must be pulled strictly perpendicular to the head.
For one perm, 50 g of the composition is required.

A warming cap is put on the twisted hair and the composition is kept from 10 to 40 minutes. The exposure time depends on the concentration of the chemical composition and the condition of the hair. When using climazon, the exposure time is halved.

After some time, it is necessary to check the quality of the curl, for which they unwind (not completely, but only by 1-2 turns) and spin back 3-4 bobbins in different zones, and also compare the diameters of the bobbin and the resulting curl. If these diameters match, then proceed to the next step: the composition is washed off with hot water without spinning the bobbin.

Then fixation is performed by laying a tourniquet from a napkin along the marginal hairline so that the fixer does not get on the face.

Currently, two types of fixer are produced: ready-made and concentrated.

One fixation requires 50 g of fixer (3-5% concentration of hydrogen peroxide). If the fixer is ready, it is applied with a sponge or applicator to the bobbins and foamed so that a foam cap forms. The exposure time of the composition on the hair is 10 minutes. If the fixer is concentrated, it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:1 before application.

After the foam settles, the bobbins are untwisted and a fixer is applied to the ends of the hair for another 5 minutes. Then the fixer is washed off with clean water.

After that, the final work is performed: neutralization with a special composition, styling, cutting, drying, etc.

Perm, performed with braids and bobbins

Wet hair is divided into zones, as shown in Fig. 2, a.

a - division of hair into zones;b - braided pigtails with ends wound on bobbins;c - the resulting hairstyle; arrows indicate the direction of hair separation

The zone of the first row of braids should be 5 cm wide. The number of braids depends on the density of the hair; the thickness of each pigtail is 2-2.5 cm. The hair is braided tightly into pigtails; the ends are not braided, but wound on bobbins and secured with an elastic band.

The zone of the second row of braids should be slightly wider than the zone of the first row, and the third - wider than the zone of the second row.

Thus, the hair is processed row by row to the top of the nape.

Strands of hair in the temporal-lateral and parietal zones are braided into thicker pigtails (3-3.5 cm).

After all the hair is braided, and the ends of the braids are wound on bobbins, they are impregnated on all sides with a chemical composition and kept for 15-25 minutes, depending on the condition and structure of the hair. Then the pigtails with bobbins are very thoroughly washed with water (t = 50...60°C) and a fixer is applied, which is held for 10 minutes. Next, the fixative is washed off with water, the bobbins are removed, the braids are untwisted and the hair is washed again with water.

At the end of the perm, the hair is washed with a therapeutic emulsion and combed with a comb with large teeth.

Hair is dried naturally or with a hair dryer.

The hairstyle is natural, with large curls.

This combined chemical perm method is recommended for those who do not curl their hair with curlers.

To make the hair look lush and thick, as well as to facilitate their styling, the basal method of perm is used (Fig. 3). It is recommended for sparse or excessively regrown hair after a perm, as well as for hairstyles in which it is necessary to create volume at the hair roots.

The essence of the root method of curling is that not all the hair is wound, but only part of it at the root, leaving the ends of the strands straight or keeping the previous curl on them.

You can start wrapping from any area of \u200b\u200bthe head. However, it must be borne in mind that if the hair has previously been permed, then the bobbin should be wound, stepping back 2 cm from the regrown part of the hair. For example, if the hair has grown by 8 cm, then the bobbin is set at a distance of 10 cm from the edge of the hair.

The strand around the bobbin is wound with a half-eight. In this case, the end of the strand is in the left hand, and with the right hand they hold that part of it that is located on the bobbin. Having made the required number of turns towards the roots of the hair, the bobbin is fixed with an elastic band.

Having wound all the hair in this way, they proceed to the next stage of their processing: a chemical composition is applied to each bobbin in such a way that it does not get on the untwisted ends of the hair.

The exposure time is 10-25 minutes (depending on the structure of the hair).

All subsequent stages of root waving are similar to the stages of classical perm.

Spiral perm hair using modified bobbins

There are two ways to perform a spiral perm (Fig. 4).

Spiral perm and two ways to do it

A strand of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), twisted into a bundle and wound in a spiral onto a bobbin. In this case, the turns of the spiral are placed close to each other. The direction of twisting the bundle and the direction of winding on the bobbin must match.

A strand of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital area), while it is not twisted into a bundle, but immediately wound in a spiral onto a bobbin, placing the turns close to each other.

Corrugated permed hair start from the lower occipital zone. A strand of hair is selected in the form of a square and tightly wound on a plastic hairpin according to the figure-eight principle. Next, perform all the stages of classical perm.

With a corrugated perm, the same curl is obtained as with a perm using pigtails.

Perm on boomerangs (Fig. 6) allows you to get a voluminous curl. Bobbins in this case are wound in a checkerboard pattern. All other stages are the same as in a classic perm. The width of the strand should not exceed the diameter of the bobbin.

Perm hair ring curls

Perm ring curls (Fig. 7) is used to create volume on short hair. Hair is divided into strands in the form of squares, the size of which depends on the desired effect, and staggered. The larger the square, the more voluminous the resulting curl will be. The end of the strand is wrapped in a special piece of paper, the strand is twisted into a ring curl and secured with a non-metallic hairpin.

Perm hair - Types and types

Perm has a long history and it has been a long time since the procedure was perfected. Indeed, quite recently, in all Soviet hairdressing clients, they curled in the same manner so that they looked like lambs. Such chemistry looked unnatural and even comical, in addition to everything else, she also burned her hair - in a word, disfigured women as best she could.

Few of the fair sex nature endowed with lush curls. But charming curls are suitable for almost everyone - they make a woman's facial features softer, giving them femininity. And for those who want to always have a beautiful hairstyle with curly hair, there is a wonderful way out - perm, which can completely change the image of a woman and hide some of the flaws in the shape of the face.

Chemistry is an auxiliary method for hair styling. She prepares her hair for curling. Recommended for those who use curlers or curling irons every day. In addition, thanks to chemistry, the problem associated with oily hair is eliminated.

The effect of curly hair, as a rule, lasts for 3-4 months, depending on the quality of the chemical composition. But, nevertheless, one should take into account the individual characteristics of the structure of human hair.

At present, cardinal changes have taken place in the field of perm hair. Modern chem. perm has high-quality highly effective preparations and means that allow any improvisation of a perm from the smallest to the largest curl. From the previous chemistry, only the principle of curling hair, based on a change in the structure of the hair, remained. Everything that concerns the methods of approach to the procedure and the method of curling, they have improved so much that this has allowed modern chemistry to injure the hair at a minimum level.

There are many types and types of perm hair:

Types of perm hair

Acid-based perm. Provides a strong hold, suitable for all hair types, but has a strong effect on the hair.

Alkaline curl. This type is softer on the hair and gives the curls a natural look, but is not suitable for all types of hair and lasts no more than 3 months.

Neutral curl. Gently affects the hair due to the fact that this method of curling is pH-neutral. Suitable for all types of hair, it works equally well on all areas of the hair, regardless of the degree of damage to the hair.

Amino acid curl. The amino acids and proteins contained in the composition penetrate the hair during the procedure and help them recover faster.

Types of perm hair

Curling on papillottes creates the effect of naturally curly hair with light wavy curls flowing over each other.

Spiral perm great for long hair. After curling, small spirals curl in rings without twisting with each other.

Perm "on a pigtail" suitable for hair to the shoulders and below. The strands are treated with a chemical composition, braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted into bobbins.

Perm "on a hairpin" looks good on shoulder length hair. Strands of hair are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting of the second bobbin- part of the strand is wound onto one bobbin, and then “twisted” the second. As a result, curls of various sizes are obtained.

Perm "children's". Its purpose is to eliminate the effect of the composition on the scalp. The head is covered with a plastic cap, strands are pulled through the holes in it and the usual perm is done.

Radical A perm is performed on the part of the strand adjacent to the scalp to create fluffiness at the roots or to obtain curls at the hair roots in case the previously permed hair has grown back.

Unfortunately, perm has a strong effect on the structure of the hair, which in some cases can lead to serious problems. To minimize the possible adverse effects of perm, follow these simple rules:

do not dye your hair before a perm;
if you are sick, postpone the perm;
choose products for waving that contain less alcohol and a lot of nutrients;
to wash your hair after a chemical wave, use a special shampoo for hair with a chemical wave or a mild shampoo for damaged and weakened hair;
to moisturize and strengthen hair, restore shine and silkiness to it, make hair masks containing useful substances (moisturizing panthenol and keratin, collagens, silk proteins), as well as hot masks using hair oil;
after a perm, the ends of the hair often begin to split, so regularly trim the ends of the hair a little or apply a special cream to the ends of the hair;
To better maintain curls, comb your hair only with wide-toothed combs.

Perm as a process mechanism of change ...

Perm as a process

The mechanism of changing the shape of hair during perm. Perm is a process in which the hair becomes voluminous and pliable, and the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness. On the basis of perm, a variety of styling is performed. The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain a given shape. The principle of operation of any of the permanents entering the market today is the same as it was 60 years ago.

Human hair is made up of keratin, a water-insoluble protein containing spindle-shaped cells. In turn, keratin consists of amino acids, one of which is cysteine, which stabilizes the structure of the protein, but under the action of perm preparations, it decomposes at the site of the cystine bond:

S - CH2 - CH(NH2) - COOH

Once this bond is broken, the hair becomes pliable. Since the hair is wound on bobbins, it takes the shape of an ellipse in cross section. It is known that straight hair in cross section is round, wavy has the shape of an ellipse, and strongly curly hair has a flattened ellipse (Fig. 82).

To restore the elasticity of the hair, oxidation should be performed, for example, with a weak 1-3% hydrogen peroxide solution or a ready-made fixer. In this case, the cystine bond is restored. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids under the action of a perm preparation, irreversible processes also occur - a decrease in hair mass.

The chemical process proceeds at pH = 9 - 11; the higher the pH of the composition, the stronger it acts on the hair. Hair swells faster, the S-S cystine bonds break faster, but the hydrolysis of hair amino acids also occurs more actively. Therefore, to

The choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, Their structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), on the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Stages of perm. There are three stages of perm. On First stage They produce a chemical effect with the help of compounds and a physical effect with the help of bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

On second stage They produce a chemical effect - they fix the newly formed bonds with the help of a fixer.

On third stage Produce neutralization - hardening of keratin.

The principle of perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of disulphurous bridges, which create an internal connection in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

IN first phase perm is a chemical process of deoxidation. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks the disulfide bridges. This phase is where the chemical action takes place.

In second phase spinning occurs. The hair changes shape when wound on bobbins. Broken disulphurous bridges in keratin chains are displaced, and the hair takes the form of a bobbin. In this phase, mechanical action occurs.

IN third phase fixation occurs.

Thanks to the oxidizing agent contained in the fixative, oxygen is released. By combining with hydrogen, it restores disulfide bridges. The hair is fixed in a new shape. His integrity and strength return to him, but in a new form (Fig. 83). This phase is where the chemical action takes place.

The ideal percentage of deoxidation is 30% of the destroyed disulphurous bridges, which allows you to get an elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. On average, this means that every third bridge must be broken. To do this, it is very important to choose the right chemical composition and accurately observe the exposure time. For example, if you choose too strong a chemical composition or increase the exposure time, the hair will become sensitive and will not hold its shape well. Conversely, if you choose a weak chemical composition or shorten the exposure time, the curl will be very weak, and this perm will last a very short time.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. The chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed in terms of pH. pH scale included

It takes values from 0 to 14; pure water, which is considered a Neutral Substance, corresponds to a value of 7 in the middle of the scale. A solution with a pH below 7 is Acidic, and a pH above 7 is Alkaline. An alkaline solution causes softening and swelling of the hair, while an acidic one causes contraction and hardening. There are devices and paper indicators with a special composition for determining the pH of various solutions. So, when a piece of paper impregnated with salts of nitric acid is immersed in an alkaline medium, its darkening is noted. In an acidic environment, the color change is not so strong or not at all. If you wet your hair with water and check the pH, then the resulting figure in the range from 4.4 to 5.5 will correspond to the norm of a weakly acidic reaction. Compositions for perm have a pH of about 10 with a shift to the alkaline side. The acidity index in neutralizing agents is about 3, this indicator is located in the acidic part of the scale. Until the master examines the condition of the client's hair and does not have data on previous cosmetic procedures, solutions with a pH closer to 7 should not be used. Ignorance can lead to damage to the client's hair.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient in an alkaline waving lotion is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of an alkaline waving lotion is usually 8.2-9.6 depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than the acid-balanced one. Alkaline perm is sometimes done using a perm with water, with some hair requiring a plastic hood and others not.

Benefits of an alkaline perm include Stronger curls (usually last longer); possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to get a mulberry curl if the client’s permanent was too weak before.

Acid-balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monothiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of the alkaline composition. This formulation is gentler on the hair and generally produces less tight curls than the alkaline cold wave. An acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5, the composition penetrates the hair more slowly than an alkaline, so the treatment of the hair lasts longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the chemical reaction itself (exothermic

Czech method); from an external source - usually a climazon or an infra-heater (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow curling at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than regular ones, and their active ingredient is the same.

The benefits of an acid-balanced perm are softer curls and longer but controlled processing times. Acid-balanced perm is done if the hair is naturally fragile or dyed; in order to get curls or waves close to natural, a perm serves as the basis of a hairstyle. The disadvantage is that acid-based perm is less durable than the classic (alkaline-based), after 4-6 weeks the hair becomes less lush.

composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perms perform the same function: to fix curls for a long time. Neutralization is a very important step. If the hair is not neutralized correctly, the curl may weaken or develop after shampooing. In general, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, and an acidic pH. Methods for applying neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Like alkaline perms, it has a pH of 7.4, but is much more gentle than acid-based chemicals.

Scientists developed the method of neutral perm taking into account the fact that there are so-called hydrophilic zones in the hair (water repellent), which easily absorb excess perm fluid, in contrast to hydrophobic zones. A neutral perm smooths out these differences. It protects sensitive areas, while healthy areas begin to absorb liquid more actively. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. Neutral perm is ideal for clients who have rough hair after perm and require more protection. A special keratin complex smooths out the damage in the stratum corneum already during the perm and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

Choosing a permanent. The decision on which type of permanent should be applied (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Modern means for a permanent present a wide range of choices. There are alkaline formulations for bleached hair and acid-balanced formulations for coarse, naughty hair. Each of them gives excellent results, provided the right choice and following the instructions.

Preparatory work. The preparatory work for a chemical wave includes:

*Preparation of the workplace;

*Invitation of the client to the chair;

* Carrying out a dialogue;

*Hand washing and disinfection of instruments;

Preparing fixtures: two non-metallic bowls (one for the composition, the second for the fixer), two sponges (small for the composition, large for the fixer), applicators, gloves, measuring cup, insulating cap and bobbins;

Hair combing and diagnostics: determination of the condition of the hair (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (testing: on the crook of the elbow or behind the ear, apply composition and incubated for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Performing a hygienic wash.

All haircuts of a clear, geometric shape are performed before perming.

Bobbin types and sizes. Bobbins are concave and straight. Concave Bobbins narrower in the center, gradually towards the ends

Expand; as a result, the curl is more steep at the end and loose at the roots of the hair. The diameter of the Straight Bobbin is the same along the entire length, and the curl is even. The bobbin is equipped with an elastic band (elastic band) attached to one end and fastened to the other when the hair is already wound.

When choosing the size of the bobbin, it is necessary to take into account the desired number of curls and the physical characteristics of the hair. The number of waves, curls and splendor of hair are determined by the master and the client in a preliminary conversation. The type of hairstyle depends primarily on the size of the bobbins, their number and placement on the head. Hair characteristics such as length, bounce and texture are taken into account when choosing the size of the bobbin, with the latter being the most important. So, with a rough texture and good elasticity, you need to divide the hair into small strands and take large bobbins. Medium texture and elasticity require the hair to be divided into medium strands; bobbins should also be of medium size. With a fine texture and poor elasticity, the hair should be divided into smaller strands than with an average texture; bobbins are taken from small to medium to prevent damage to the hair. To curl the hair on the back of the head, take the smallest strands and the smallest bobbins. To make a perm on long hair (longer than 15 cm), they are divided into small strands, wound evenly and close to the head. The division into small strands contributes to uniform wetting.

Hair perm

Many women dream of beautiful curls, but not every nature has curly hair. One of the options to achieve the desired effect is a perm.

Many of us, for sure, had a chance to experience disappointment from the performed "classic" perm. Spoiled hair of an incomprehensible color sticking out in all directions and one dream - to cut it all off as soon as possible. Now there are opportunities to minimize the adverse effects of chemicals on the hair, it became possible to choose a perm not only in terms of external indicators, but also according to the type of your hair.

True, a lot will depend on the master who will do you a perm. From my own experience, I can say that my very first perm was the most successful. It was done with a soul, but in completely unthinkable conditions, with the most ordinary "Curl". I have not been able to achieve this result, which is a pity.

A real professional will definitely analyze the type of your hair, and will select a perm in accordance with the results. So, for example, a gentle acid perm is suitable for tired hair. Unlike conventional chemistry, acid perm has a pH value between 6 and 7, which almost matches the natural acidic protective coating of skin and hair. This means that the acid perm will not tire the hair too much. If you have sensitive skin on your head, a biological wave containing sulfides is suitable for you and is very gentle on the scalp. Conventional chemistry is only suitable for healthy or very thin hair. Its only merit is that it lasts at least twice as long as any other perm.

And yet, the choice is yours.

So, what you need to consider when making a choice:

Negative points:

Any hair requires care and attention, a perm will not save you from the hassle of styling and care, rather the opposite. Despite the fact that sparing options for chemical perms have now been developed, nevertheless, hair is stressed and negatively affected and needs restorative treatment. Permed hair requires careful combing and styling.

A gentle perm lasts less than a classic one.

In many ways, success will be determined by the professionalism of the master. He will not only make a quality perm, but will also help you decide on the type of perm, depending on the structure of your hair, their health, the expected size of the curls and their stiffness. If you are not confident in the master, you risk ruining your hair and mood.

There are a lot of undesirable moments that can reduce the results to zero. More on this later.

You may need to touch up your hair, as it may still lose its original color.

If you live in an area with a hot, dry climate, this can also be bad for your hair. They will require more care.

Constancy. If you change your mind, you will have to wait a long time until the hair becomes natural, and possibly part with the stubborn part of it.

And now for the positives:

If you have a humid climate, and at the same time you love curls, you should choose a perm, because in the rain, in wet weather, chemically treated curls will only be clearer, which cannot be said about curls laid on curlers or a curling iron.

Permed hair styling can be done less frequently.

Hair becomes more "obedient".

If you have oily hair, chemicals will dry them out.

Chemical perm adds volume to hair.

Constancy. This can be a positive quality if you make the right choice.

If you have an unbearable desire to do chemistry and this will just make your soul calmer, do it, taking into account all the necessary information for the right choice.

Do not perm if:

your hair is depleted, diseased and in need of restorative treatment.
your body is weakened by illness or stress.
you are pregnant or taking hormonal drugs that affect the hormonal background of your body, so to speak, creating the effect of "imaginary pregnancy".
you are breastfeeding.
you have critical days.
If you have high blood pressure, if you have low blood pressure, try to raise it by drinking a cup of coffee.
in a room where a perm is performed, less than 24 ° C in winter and 22 ° C in summer.
you are allergic to the drug.
Have you recently tinted or dyed your hair? After dyeing your hair, you must wait with a perm for 2-3 weeks. Spend this time on intensive hair care.
the day before, you treated your hair with a composition containing metal or ursol (for example, "Hair Color Restorer", etc.)
Do you constantly use products containing silicones? If these are shampoos with conditioner, then the silicones contained in it dissolve in water, just tell the hairdresser to remove the remnants of this product with an exfoliating shampoo. Read more about silicones below.

"Killers" perm?

Silicones in combo shampoos

(The material is based on the book "500 Hairstyles and Makeup Tips. Pro Tips")

Products called Two-in-one (two products in one bottle) are becoming more and more popular. Are they to blame for the failed perm?

Silicones are different.

1. Water-soluble silicones form a stable foam and are specially used in shampoos. They are not deposited in the hair.

2. Silicone oils enhance shine and make hair easier to comb. They are found in rinses, health products, and many combination products. These oils do not dissolve in water, but are washed off with shampoo. With frequent use, they accumulate in the hair.

3. High polymer silicones bond the split ends of the hair. Silicones, especially those that are part of the liquid for the care of the ends of the hair, are deposited in the form of a dense film on the hair and are removed with great difficulty.

Weak perm, boring coloring and hair that hangs helplessly after each wash - many women face these difficulties. But few know how to deal with it.

Meanwhile, the use of combined products has simplified hair care. Shampoo and conditioner in one bottle - a wonderful discovery. Time is saved, and often this type of hair care is cheaper and cheaper. It is not surprising that two-in-one products currently have about 15% of the market share. However, the growing popularity of these products scares many hairdressers. "Perming, coloring and tinting of hair no longer work as before. Hairdressers are increasingly complaining about this," says B. Müller, chairman of the board of the Central Union of German Hairdressers. Hairdressers suspect that the silicone contained in many products is the culprit for the aforementioned troubles.

Silicones are widely used in hair care products and are essentially harmless. In many combined shampoos, their proportion is negligible. Drops of silicone that are deposited on the hair make it softer, shinier and easier to style. However, with constant use of shampoo, more and more droplets of silicone are deposited on the hair, which form a film and close the pores. Further types of chemical treatment, such as toning or perm, can no longer affect the hair in the right way. First of all, delicate thin hair becomes heavy, and the curl does not hold on to them.

H.Daniel of the Hygiene and Detergent Manufacturers Union, defending the new shampoos from attack, refers to in-house tests and studies that were carried out in New Zealand and the Scandinavian countries and found no deterioration in the quality of perm and toning. But, since the research has only recently started and the results of longer trials have not yet been received, hairdressers' doubts seem to be justified.

Undoubtedly, certain types of silicones are always deposited on the hair. Silicones are specially introduced into the liquid for the care of the ends of the hair in order to achieve just such an effect. Therefore, if you intend to perm, you should not use products containing silicones often.<:>

use a combined shampoo should not be daily, but not more than twice a week. The rest of the time, use regular shampoo.
you need to buy a combination shampoo in accordance with the type of hair and spend a small amount for each wash.
for washing delicate fine hair, only in exceptional cases can you use combined shampoos. Hair quickly becomes covered with silicone and becomes sluggish.
for hair supersaturated with silicone, the cosmetic industry produces special neutralizers that prevent the deposition of silicone on the hair. These products are convenient for those who do not want to procrastinate with a perm.
When you ask your hairdresser to do a perm, toning or coloring, be sure to tell him about the previous hair care.

About perm

What is a perm?

Perm is the general name for the process, as a result of which the hair becomes voluminous and pliable, the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness.

What happens to hair during a perm?

The substance of the hair softens under the action of acid (thioglycolic), its natural sulfur compounds dissolve. At this stage of curling, the hair takes a new shape with the help of curlers or papillots and is fixed in it.

Which perm is right for your hair?

It entirely depends on their thickness and condition.

It is believed that the thinner the hair, the more demanding it is for perm products, since thin hair itself is soft, weak and sags quickly. Therefore, the curling agent must be strong enough to fix fine hair in a new shape. Thick thin hair is inherently stronger and better retains its shape, so there is enough “lighter” chemistry for them. The classic perm is best suited for healthy hair. If it is done correctly, it lasts from three to six months. True, it is not harmless to hair, therefore, in order for them to retain their shine and healthy appearance, you have to use special rinses and balms.

If you have sensitive scalp, it is better to choose a biowave, which contains sulfide instead of thioglycolic acid and acts gently and gently on the hair and scalp. The new product is pleasant for the skin: foul-smelling and burning ammonia is not included in its composition. Instead, natural urea is used, under the action of which the hair swells before curling. This substance is almost odorless and does not pollute the environment. But still, without hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, which is part of the cream for bleaching hair, no long-term perm can do. And this operation also tires the hair.

For tired hair, acid-based chemistry is suitable. In contrast to the alkaline composition for a classic perm, the acidic composition has a pH value of + 6-7, which is approximately equal to the pH value in the anti-acid cover of hair and skin, which naturally facilitates the penetration of acids into their structure. The disadvantage of an acid composition is that it is less stable than an alkaline one. The perm lasts about half as long as the usual perm with a classic composition, about 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately, acid perm is not suitable for all hair types. So, for example, it is useless to try to do an acid perm on the so-called strong hair - smooth and so straight that after each attempt to make waves, they return to their previous state. They just don't take chemical waving fluid. If your waves do not hold at all, ask your hairdresser to test your hair with a special device or just do a test curl on one strand.

And finally neutral perm - a novelty. It has a neutral pH value, less damage to the scalp and works equally well on all parts of the hair. On the head of each person there are areas where the hair is either too rebellious or damaged. Thus, one part of the hair lends itself well to perming, while the other does not. And the result is an uneven curl, often without shine. Neutral perm has a uniform effect on the hair and is suitable for all hair types. It's also ideal for those who want to do their own perms: it's sold as a wave foam with integrated nutrients. A special keratin complex smooths out damage to the stratum corneum already during a perm and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

When making your choice, consult a professional hairdresser. It will help you figure out what is right for you.

TYPES OF PERMS

Curling on papillottes

This type of curl creates the effect of naturally curly hair, creates light wavy curls.

For curling on papillots, the upper hair is divided into “steps”. This gives the hairstyle additional plasticity. The hairdresser separates the correspondingly wide strands and winds them on large hairpins. You need to arrange them randomly. Strands of hair should be twisted in the same direction, but not parallel. This will create a picture of beautifully flowing, naturally curly hair. Then apply the means of curling. It is selected taking into account the structure and condition of your hair.

Spiral perm

Perfect for long hair, but can also be performed on the length of the hair to the earlobe.

The peculiarity of the spiral "chemistry" is in the form of curls. Long hair is twisted in small strands into small spirals. After curling, they curl in rings without twisting with each other. The hairdresser achieves the same effect with a regular curl, if he first twists individual strands into bundles. Spiral chemistry is recommended to dry at room temperature or with a hairdryer with a diffuse nozzle. It acts as a filter, allowing air to pass through many small holes without tangling your hair.

Perm "on a pigtail

Suitable for shoulder length hair and below. The peculiarity of this curl is that strands are treated with a chemical composition, braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted into bobbins. But you can also twist the entire pigtail. This achieves an interesting effect.

Perm "on a hairpin

Looks good on shoulder length hair.

The peculiarity of this perm is that the strands of hair are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting the second tookushki

The peculiarity of this type of perm is that part of the strand is wound on one bobbin, and then the second is “twisted”. As a result, curls of various sizes are obtained.

Perm for children

The purpose of performing a "children's" perm is to exclude formulations on the scalp and hair roots.

Such a perm is performed like this. The head is covered with a plastic cap. With an ordinary crochet hook, strands are pulled through holes in a plastic cap made by the same crochet. Next is the usual perm.

Perm "Gemini

This type of perm is distinguished by the shape of the curl: half of the strand has curls in the form of vertical curls, and half in the form of horizontal ones.

Root perm

It is used in cases where it is required to perform a perm on a part of the strand adjacent to the scalp, for example, to create splendor at the roots or to obtain curls at the hair roots if the previously permed hair has grown back. The length of the strand to be curled is chosen as desired.

Advice:

In order to preliminarily determine the intended shape of the curl and the appearance of the hairstyle using non-traditional types of perm, you can perm by moistening the hair strands with plain water with the addition of beer in a ratio of 1: 1 or with the addition of citric acid (add citric acid to 1/2 cup of water for tip of a knife).

A few hours after the perm, the hair should be rinsed with acidified water (a tablespoon of table vinegar per liter of water);

On the day of the curl, do not comb your hair;

For 2-4 days, do not wash your hair and do not subject it to heat treatment, for example, the use of a hair dryer, hot rollers, etc. is not recommended.

Do not use electric tongs;

You can not comb your hair with a brush. For this, a comb or comb with rare teeth is more suitable;

Do not dry your hair, try not to get under the direct rays of the sun, after bathing (in salt or chlorinated water), be sure to rinse your hair;

In order to improve the structure of the hair, do not use urine therapy, since the curl may soon "develop";

Use special nourishing shampoos and balms to wash your hair;

It is advisable to conduct a health-improving and regenerative course for hair.

Gentle hair wash. Ideal for washing with a super mild shampoo for perm-damaged hair or washing with conditioner shampoo. Hair is less torn, as it becomes more elastic. Shampoo your scalp and hair roots. Long hair is enough to clean the remnants of shampoo flowing down the hair.

Recovery at night. The effect of chemicals during curling affects not only the external, but also the internal structure of the hair. Protein compounds that give hair strength and at the same time make hair elastic disappear. The consequence of this is dry, brittle hair without shine. A special course of treatment in ampoules restores damaged hair within seven days. Ampoules are used as follows: the liquid from the entire ampoule is applied to dry hair in the evening and combed. During the night, it will be absorbed into the hair and begin to restore the broken connections. Wash your hair well in the morning.

course of treatment in between. Instant action, ideal for women who have little time. To do this, it is enough to sprinkle the hair with a moisturizing liquid. An amazing double effect: nutrients are injected into dry hair and at the same time, the curl is “refreshed” by means of a massage. For hair that has been particularly affected by perm, a nutrient spray should be applied daily.

Regular energizing. Regardless of whether the hair looks faded or not after perm, it should be rinsed well after each wash. Hair masks should be done after every 3 or 4 hair washes. The new perms contain lightweight nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and growth-enhancing keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also give the curls elasticity.

Soft laying is acceptable. This applies mainly to long hair. Be warned: the hot air of a hair dryer is poison. Dry your hair with warm air only, using the diffusion nozzle, otherwise the hair will tangle and the curls will not be able to curl up. New: drying under an infrared lamp - just like in a hairdresser. A more gentle drying method is hard to imagine. If you want to make fashionable "big waves", wind large strands of hair on pre-heated "Soft Styler" rollers. The advantages of this method: the hair stays dry, the curlers cool within 20 minutes and do not need clips or hairpins.

A great effective remedy is hot oil. This is the latest innovation: it strengthens the hair without leaving any traces of fat on it. Its secret lies in a new combination of ingredients from keratinates and protein hydrolysates and thermal action. Closed bottles of oily liquid should be heated for 2 minutes in hot water, then uncorked and injected into wet hair. Thanks to the heat, the ingredients are evenly distributed on the surface of the head and have a better effect on the hair. Let the oil soak in a bit and then wash it off with shampoo. Thanks to this treatment course, hair becomes healthier and more elastic.

Not everyone is naturally given wavy hair, but every girl wants to give an image of playfulness. Boomerang curlers will help create elastic and beautiful curls at home.

What it is?

Easy and safe, and the method of curling hair has been of interest to women at all times. Once upon a time, beauties used small tubes made of wood or paper as improvised means, rag curlers were also popular. Progress does not stand still, and modern materials make it possible to improve the process of turning straight hair into curly hair. Today's designs make it more comfortable and efficient.

Boomerang curlers have another name. flirtatious word "papilots" known to many. They are called special soft sticks on which strands are wound. The upper part of the tubes is usually made of soft foam rubber. Sometimes flexible rubber is used for this. There is a wire inside. It is thanks to her that the curlers are easily twisted and fixed in any position. Both versions boomerangs perfectly fix the hair. Devices do not slip off and are securely kept on the head even with active movements. The only difference is that the foam rubber is softer. Such curlers allow you to do a perm at night. You can sleep peacefully without feeling any discomfort, and in the morning you can see cute elastic curls in the mirror.

Rubber sticks have a denser structure. You won't be able to sleep with them. However, they allow you to get more clear-cut curls compared to the result from foam analogs. "Boomerangs" come in different lengths and diameters, and this is no coincidence, because the resulting effect depends on their size. Thin tubes can give your hair graceful small curls. Large ones allow you to get spectacular voluminous curls. From a wide range, you can choose the option that suits you best.

The color range of products is also varied. Usually these are bright and juicy shades that uplift the mood.

Features and Benefits

"Boomerangs" won the hearts of beautiful ladies immediately after the appearance. And so far, interest in them has not decreased. This is due to the numerous advantages of this type of curling over other methods:

Safety."Boomerangs" do not require exposure to high temperatures to achieve the desired result, unlike thermal products, curling irons and other devices. They do not need to be “torn off” from the hair, like Velcro curlers, damaging the structure of the curls. Well, of course, they do not require the application of potent compounds to the strands, as with a salon perm. The result of the procedure lasts 1-2 days, but neither the scalp nor the hair itself is exposed to harmful or dangerous effects.
Ease of application. The principle of the arrangement of "boomerangs" on the hair is so simple that it does not require special skills. You can easily curl your hair at home the first time, you just need to follow the basic rules for the best result.

Flexible hairpins are easily attached to the strands, regardless of the direction of curling. It does not require any clips, elastic bands or other additional devices for fixing.

Convenience. Curlers hold securely on the hair, do not fall off, do not allow the strands to be disheveled or tangled. The light weight and softness of the products make it possible to practically not notice their presence on the head, unlike traditional curlers.

You can do any household chores or even go to bed (if the “boomerangs” are made of foam rubber), without worrying about the safety of the structure created on your head and without experiencing discomfort.

Excellent result. After removing the elastic tubes from the hair, you will see a stunning effect. Beautiful and natural waves will instantly transform your hair. The security of boomerangs allows you to use them as often as you like. You can experiment with images, change the intensity of the curl and the size of the curls. It is easy and pleasant to be different with such products.
Affordable cost. The low price of papillots allows you to give yourself the opportunity to quickly curl without compromising the budget. If you rarely curl your hair, then you will not be sorry to spend a small amount on curlers, which will be used only on occasion. And if you are a big fan of curls, then you can purchase several sets of "boomerangs" of different sizes for different effects.

Papillots have only one drawback. With frequent use in the fold areas, the foam coating may begin to crumble. It also happens that the wire sticks out. However, the low cost allows you to regularly update the kit without significant financial costs.

Dimensions

The size of "boomerangs" can be different. The smallest have a diameter of 14 mm and a length of 180 mm. The diameter of the largest is 22 mm, and the length of such products is 240 mm. The choice of the size of the curls should be based on the length of the hairstyle and the desired result. Owners of long and thick hair will find it easier to use products of large diameter and length. Girls with short hair will need thin and not too long foam tubes. The latter option is also useful for long-haired beauties if they want to create small curls.

How to use?

At first glance, it may seem that winding strands on curlers is an elementary task. However, not all so simple. So that instead of luxurious curls or perky curls, ugly and uneven “creases” do not turn out, it is important to follow a few simple rules:

Before you start creating a new hairstyle, you need to rinse hair thoroughly. Then they should be slightly dried. It is better to wind wet strands on curlers. Absolutely dry hair may not be curled. Wet strands will not be able to dry completely in a twisted state, even if you sit with curlers all day. As a result, curls can turn out to be slurred and quickly lose their shape.
Apply a styling product to wet hair. This will help the hairstyle last longer and provide more defined curls. The main thing is to observe the measure, otherwise you risk getting the look of stale hair. The best solution would be to apply styling mousse not to the entire length of the strands, but only to the area from the middle part of the hair to the tips. This secret will make the hairstyle lighter, lush and natural.

Decide what styling you need. For a neat hairstyle, a symmetrical mirror arrangement of “boomerangs” is necessary. For the effect of slight negligence, their chaotic fixing will be appropriate.
Comb the curls and divide them into parts according to the chosen concept. When doing this, consider the number of papillots available.
It is better to start curling from the crown, moving to the occipital zone. Then wind the hair at the temples. Lastly, the part from the crown to the face is processed.

Using boomerangs is easy:

Before wrapping, each strand must be folded into a kind of tourniquet. Then the hair is placed in the middle of the foam stick and twisted in one of two ways. The first involves the location of the curlers at the very root of the hair. The strand is "wound" on a "boomerang", which remains motionless. The second way is to place the papillotte at the end of the strand. In this case, the tube itself rotates, twisting the curl onto itself.

When the strand is completely wound on the "boomerang", its ends are bent towards the center. This will fix the curlers on the hair for the time you need.
Wait a few hours at least 3).
You can let your hair dry on their own or lightly dry them with a hairdryer without removing the curlers.
If the perm is done in the evening, you you can safely go to sleep. In this case, it is recommended to wear a headscarf. It will allow you to avoid the early fall of "boomerangs" and tangling of curls.
When the hair is dry and takes the form you want, curlers can be carefully removed. Start from the bottom of the hair.
If the intensity of curling suits you, It's best not to brush your hair. Just fix them with your hands and lightly varnish them. For better fixation, first tilt your head down and sprinkle the ends of the curls. Then return to the starting position and repeat the fixation over the styling. If the curls turned out too “cool”, go through the hair with a comb with large and rare teeth.

Hairstyle options

Vertical curls

For this hairstyle, two packs of "boomerangs" are needed, and if the hair is thick and long, then three. You need to wind the strands starting from the crown and towards the back of the head. In this case, each stick must be held vertically. Only in this way, when removing the "boomerangs", the curls will curl in the same direction. Having put on all the curlers, you can lightly sprinkle your hair with varnish. After a few hours, the papillots are removed. Combing is not recommended. You just need to straighten your hair with your hands and slightly stretch the curls to the bottom.

When using thin "boomerangs", curls are more expressive. However, it should be borne in mind that the length of the hair in this case seems much less.

big curls

Large “heavy” curls starting from the middle of the hairstyle are not difficult to get. To do this, you need tubes of large diameter. One package may be enough here, because the strands for winding are chosen wide enough. The lower part of the hairstyle is separated with a comb. The top hair is fixed with a hair clip. Each strand is wound, starting from the end of the hair and reaching the middle. With this method of curling, it is especially comfortable to sleep, because the curlers do not interfere at all.