Top straight razors. Straight razors with replaceable blades: use and comparison. Do not forget about a special shaving kit

Some men have a strong interest in dangerous shaves. Sounds powerful, sometimes brutal. It is often a great idea to give such a device as a gift. But it's one thing to get it, and quite another to learn how to use it correctly. Now the tool is introduced in professional hairdressing salons.

If you want to acquire a blade “fear”, mentally prepare yourself for some time to train well so that shaving skills are fixed. The main thing is not to rush, to do everything slowly, calmly. After all, if you rush, a cut can cause consequences. We will help you approach the issue with all responsibility. Usefulness and fun guaranteed!

Some prefer to buy the first "fear" cheaper. Like, if you don't like it, I'll throw it away. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because it is precisely the initial acquaintance with her that must be approached responsibly. Popular manufacturers of such devices are England, Spain, Sweden, Germany. They are also produced by the French, Americans, Chinese. But what about the Russians?

Russian-made straight razors are currently absent on the domestic market, as they are being replaced by modern imported, reusable razors with replaceable blades. However, Russian products can be found in private shops or online stores from masters, because someone likes to collect them, and someone else sells them or gives them as a souvenir.

We do not have large companies for its manufacture. Although there is a "Workshop of Damascus" that makes such devices from Damascus steel. On our shelves you will rarely find a manufacturer in Russia, because such a product was massively in demand during the Soviet era.

An example of such a Soviet product is steez sport, which is considered practically the best due to its high world-class rating. Serial production of devices took place at the ZTV (Plant Trud Vacha), which began in 1830. The end of the 19th century was marked for the plant by the Grand Gold Medal of the World Exhibition in Paris, and in 1891 it was exhibited at the World Exhibition in New York. It says a lot, don't you agree?

For reference! The technique of dangerous shaving excludes the use of gels and creams. These products will not prepare the skin properly. It is better to use soap or a special mug.

Now only a few companies are fully working, because straight razor manufacturers always compete with each other for quality and originality.

Representatives of the current industry:

1. Dovo. German company, roots from the distant 1906. Operates successfully today. The factory is located near Solingen.
2. Hart Steel American production. Relatively young structure, founded in 2009. The range is not as huge compared to competitors, but positive consumer reviews regularly attract new customers.
3. "Thiers-Issard". French manufacturer. Works since 1884. Thiers-Issard is quite a strong competitor as it uses exclusively high-quality materials, handmade work, a unique hardening process, and has a large number of models for every taste and price.
4. Muehle. The brand is from Germany. Fans of the classic wet shave must have recognized him immediately. The quality is of a good level, although this is more of a budget option. The inscription "Solingen" is carved on the handle of the device. It is worth noting that factory sharpening will not allow you to shave immediately, because a specialist will still have to work with muehle.
5. Artrazor. It is an open creative association, a club of free masters, attracting new professionals. The project was founded by master Frans and continues its activities together with the guys from the popular site britva.ru. The creative impulse, the desire to create their own unique products united these men to work hard. Today artrazor is in demand, also manufacturing belts for straightening, accessories.

The most popular straight razors

There are a number of models that enjoy special trust and disposition among men. We read about the most famous below.

Wacker Classic

German manufacturer guaranteeing high quality. Exclusive Wacker market item. The material of the point is pure carbon steel incorporating a fine Silver Streel microstructure. The blade is maximally concave, which gives smoothness to your skin after shaving. The blade is 5/8” wide. The handle is made of buffalo horn, each separately created model has its own unique pattern, contrast.

It is handmade, the place of creation is the city of Solingen. Delivered with a certificate of authenticity and the personal signature of G. Wacker, who founded this firm.

Important! Keep tools, especially those made of carbon steel, out of the bathroom. Due to increased moisture, it may begin to rust.

Wacker Borodino

The model was released on the date of the 200-year-old domestic battle between the Russians and the French in 1812. The name of the model comes from the great battle of Borodino. The canvas contains portraits of Napoleon, Kutuzov. Handmade model, handle - natural buffalo horn. The natural properties of such a material allow it to independently change color, structure.

Boker Arbolito H.Boker & CO

A branded product manufactured in the Spanish factory "Arbolito". Boker is valued for its high quality, and there are enough reasons for this: a moisture-resistant synthetic handle, decorated with inlays; ultra thin 5/8” high carbon steel blade; head made in the best Spanish traditions. The production is manual, including about 120 different operations.

Measures were repeatedly taken to simplify and mechanize the sharpening process. One of the solutions was to create a design with a blade that detaches or a machine that can sharpen the point. Antique shops and some collectors have similar 19th century "fears" in good condition.

Wacker Titanium

It is new on the market. The blade is 6/8” wide. The handle is also made of horn. The head is classical, the concavity is full. Perfectly smooth cover after use is guaranteed. What is titanium plating? The advantages of this material:

1. Environmental friendliness.
2. Resistant surface against mechanical damage.
3. High corrosion resistance compared to other metals.
4. Good wear resistance, long service life.

Dovo Best Quality Black

A familiar German manufacturer offers a budget, but high-quality option. Even a beginner can handle it. 5/8” wide point with 1 to 2 concavity for a comfortable shave. The high-carbon blade is elastic, easy to sharpen and straighten. Celluloid handle, water resistant, comfortable to grip. Be sure to purchase a leather sharpening belt, as when you shave, the thin edge forms small defects. Straighten the blade before every shave.

How are straight razors made?

First, take a steel cylindrical billet. This is the original frame. How the straight razor is made in stages, we read below:

1. A steel billet is heated in a furnace to high temperatures. It turns like plasticine. But the pliability of steel "plasticine" is not so high.
2. The heated cylinder is then formed into a flat shape. Cut off excess edges.
3. The mold is placed in graphite powder with the addition of molten lead. The latter increases the steel strength.
4. Filling with oil. Sprinkling with sawdust for better absorption.
5. Point sharpening. It is covered with special materials that reinforce it. Then electrolysis.
6. Placement of the blade on the handle.
7. Final sharpening step by step. The latter provides a leather belt instead of a grinder to straighten the blade for maximum enjoyment.

Did you know so much about straight razors before?

YesNot

most expensive razor

Parisian hygiene products supplier Hommage has unveiled a stunning new product made from a very precious metal - platinum. Such a pleasure costs $ 30,000. This is the most expensive "fear" in the world, with high hardness, plasticity, inertness. In addition to hygiene products, the company supplies body care products, as well as high-end spa treatments for men.

The hommage product has the colossal advantage of being an original handmade piece of 128 layers of Damascus steel. The case is also platinum, which protects the metal from oxidation. The sale of the device is carried out in a package that is made of Tanzan, a rather rare tree.

Advice! Initially, there will be unsuccessful attempts. To master good technique, try to shave regularly. Thus, you will gradually master and feel the whole process.

The sharpest razor

A well-sharpened “fear” blade surpasses machine sharpness. It is also quite long, and a man cleanses a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe appearance in one movement. Due to the thin point, each part of the face is shaved no more than 2 times. If your bristles are soft, one is enough.

The sharpest "fears" give a positive effect in a minimum amount of time, because the hairs are completely shaved off, and do not break out, as often happens. Then the irritation of the cover is reduced. Open sources (discovery) speak of the fact that the edge of a corner of a well-sharpened dangerous blade is the second sharpest object in the world (the first is an atomic laser).

Expert opinion

Alexey Strijnikov

Barber, expert in men's haircuts

“When cut, use hemostatic powder. You can buy it at a hairdressing store.”

smooth macho

After you are a man, you will find branded products suitable for yourself, your relatives, colleagues, loved one will mark you with this name. If you like to shave, always looking smooth on your face, use the tips in this publication, remembering to apply them. We wish you to develop and be happy with your successful image!

Every man has thought about shaving with a dangerous blade. This method is convenient - due to the wide blade, the process takes less time, the open blade allows you to get an effective result. The sharpness of the blade allows you to protect the skin from irritation - there is no need to run over the same area of ​​​​skin several times, shaving off the stubble.

How to choose?

It will not be possible to master a new way of shaving the first time; out of habit, you will have to experience certain inconveniences. The blade requires maintenance and periodic sharpening, a beginner with no experience , can easily spoil it with bad editing.

So how do you choose a straight razor for a beginner?

Web form

Blades come in several forms. A cloth that is narrower towards the tip, shaped like a knife or scalpel, will be the safest. If the tip is too sharp, you can sharpen it to round it off.

Blade width

A 5/8" or 6/8" width makes it easier to select and maintain the angle you want to shave. Too wide will be heavy, out of habit it will interfere.

Blade concavity

According to the combination of flexibility and hardness, the optimal concavity is 1/1. The greater its degree, the easier the canvas lends itself to editing and sharpening.

blade head

A razor with a rounded head will help avoid accidental cuts in hard-to-reach places.

Blade steel

The most common are products with carbon steel blades. They are quite flexible and easy to adjust. Such a material also has a number of disadvantages - fragility and susceptibility to corrosion, which is offset by low prices, therefore, when starting to get acquainted with straight razors, it is better to choose them.

Stainless steel razors are more durable, retain their sharpness longer after sharpening, but are less malleable. These blades are less flexible, so shaving will require skill.

The best straight razors are Damascus steel. This material is characterized by an optimal combination of hardness and flexibility, retains its sharpness for a long time after straightening.

Be sure to check the quality certificate!

Handle material

It does not affect the functional qualities, so here the choice is a matter of taste. The most accessible material is plastic. Products whose handles are made of wood, bone or horn will be much more expensive. It is better to choose models without elaborate patterns and excessive gilding. In the future, stains from oxidation can significantly spoil the appearance of the handle.

Accessories

When buying, you need to make sure that there is a belt for editing in the kit - if the product becomes dull, it will not cut hair well. If the belt is damaged or worn during use, purchase a replacement from the original manufacturer.

Be sure to purchase shaving soap or cream to improve glide and minimize potential skin damage.

Care is simple. The main rule of long service life is that the blade should be in contact with water as little as possible. Therefore, after shaving, wipe everything dry with a soft cloth or waffle towel. Storage in a closed case is undesirable, the metal must "breathe".

If the razor will not be used for a long time, buy special oil and lubricate the blade periodically to avoid damage and corrosion.

Rating of the best manufacturers

There are no large manufacturers of dangerous razors in Russia - this product was massively in demand during the Soviet era.

Therefore, to get a quality guarantee, purchase products from foreign manufacturers.

• German manufacturer "Dovo". Produced in Solingen. The company has been producing shaving accessories for over 100 years, has created many popular brands;

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• The French firm Thiers-Issard has existed since 1884. It produces a huge range of models; unique steel hardening methods are used in production;

A straight or bladed razor is a time-tested tool consisting of a handle and a blade. The handle-sheath protects the blade from damage and blunting. Such razors were widely used until the middle of the twentieth century, and they began to be called dangerous after the creation of the Gillette T-shaped machine, positioned as a “safety razor”.

The "fear" handle is made of plastic, wood, steel, bone or horn. The blade is made from solid metal. Its main components are the canvas, neck and tail. Special notches are created on the inside of the neck to prevent tool slippage. The canvas includes the head, back, sting and heel. The cutting edge of the blade razor is located along the entire length of the blade and provides a wide coverage of the skin in one pass.

Straight Razor Benefits

They are used for shaving the face and head, sometimes for filing and cutting hair. Despite the availability of machine tools and electric shavers for sale, the “fear” does not lose its relevance and still remains in demand. The main reasons for its enduring popularity are:

Varieties of straight razors

Before choosing a straight razor, a beginner should learn more about the varieties of such tools. According to the material, the blades of the “fear” are made of carbon steel and stainless steel. Carbon steel blades are more malleable and easier to sharpen, but more prone to corrosion. Stainless steel models confidently resist corrosion processes, but are more difficult to sharpen. For admirers of exclusive accessories, there are also "fear" with Damascus steel blades. They are expensive, hard to sharpen, but for a long time.

Blade width is usually specified in eighths of an inch. It comes in different sizes - 1/8, 6/8, 8/8". The concavity of such instruments is full and half. The head is round, straight, barbers or French. The cross-sectional view is determined by the radius groove. The deeper it is, the sharper the blade. The optimal design of the razor depends on the characteristics of the operation being performed.

Which straight razor to choose for beginners

When choosing a straight razor for
When shaving, it is important to consider the material of the blade and handle, the type of head, the width of the blade and the weight of the tool. Ideal for beginners:

1. Models in carbon steel. This metal is softer than stainless steel, which allows the beginner to quickly master the technique of shaving. Such "fears" are the most popular and easy to use.
2. Blades 5/8" or 6/8" wide. It is difficult to shave with a narrow or wide blade without skills and experience: when using narrow models, it is difficult to find and maintain the required angle of inclination, and wide “fears” have a solid weight, so they can cause discomfort and fatigue. Razors with 4/8" blades are used by masters for shaving under the nose and trimming the contour of the mustache. Wide blade models are the sharpest, better adapt to uneven skin and are in demand mainly for shaving the head.
3. Models with a fully curved blade. They are more expensive, but they are highly flexible, hard and easy to use. The depth of the radius groove determines the shape of the blade. The deeper the groove, the thinner the sting. A thin edge is easier to edit and needs to be sharpened less often.
4. Tool with a round head - they are more difficult to cut themselves. The most dangerous razor to use is a square head razor, but they are better suited for correcting mustaches and processing hard-to-reach areas - temporal zones, places behind the auricles.
5. Razors that have been sharpened beforehand.
6. Branded and engraved models - unlike gilding and drawings, they do not wear out over time, and the razor retains a presentable appearance.
7. The 15 cm long tool is optimal for balancing precision and control.
8. Products of well-known manufacturers with an excellent reputation - Dovo, Erbe, Thiers-Issard, MUEHLE.

Accessories for a classic shave

Having figured out how to choose the right straight razor, you should also pay attention to the issue of purchasing additional accessories for traditional shaving and caring for the tool. The most important accessories are stones of different abrasiveness for sharpening the “fear” and a leather belt for straightening it. To sharpen the blade, a whetstone with a grit of 4000-8000 grit or a barber whetstone is used. With its help, the randomly located teeth of a blunt blade return to their original ordered state.

Provides the necessary sharpness of the blade, comfort and efficiency of the shaving procedure, and after sharpening on the stone, it smoothes out the remaining irregularities. Editing provides the blade with perfect sharpness. It is recommended to carry it out before each shave. Also, for shaving according to the classical technology, you need to purchase a special soap or cream, a shaving brush and a bowl for whipping foam. Whetstones and low-quality belts can ruin the blade, so it's not worth saving when buying them.

The choice of shaving method is largely a matter of taste. Having studied various thematic forums, you can be sure that each of the available methods has its adherents: some prefer razors with interchangeable cartridges, others prefer classic T-shaped machines. You can even meet lovers of straight razors (although it is much more common to find those who prefer shavettes to them - straight razors with replaceable blades).

A shavette razor using halves of regular replacement blades

First of all, electric razors are of interest to us - they have absorbed many achievements of modern technologies and are improving from year to year (unlike all of the above devices, among which it is very rare to find a fundamentally new technical solution worthy of a new patent). How to choose an electric razor and what parameters should you pay attention to first of all? Let's figure it out.

Rotary and foil shavers

One of the key parameters by which electric shavers can be divided is two fundamentally different systems, called mesh and rotary. Their meaning and difference is intuitive from the name.

Modern rotary shavers are equipped with several heads, each of which is a disk with holes, under which there are rotating blades. The general consensus is that the main benefit of rotary shavers is that they work well on short stubble, while the main downside is that it often irritates the skin (especially if it is sensitive).

In a mesh razor, the blades do not rotate, but vibrate from side to side, and they are closed not by disks, but by a grid. On average, these razors are better for longer hair (including better for trimming mustaches and beards), and are less irritating to sensitive skin.

However, as is often the case, the “general opinion” is largely a compilation of myths from many years ago and some features of devices from quite specific manufacturers (and even a very specific price category). The truth is that at the moment, top rotary shavers have learned to be quite careful even with sensitive skin, and top mesh ones shave stubble no worse than rotary ones. So the point is rather not in the technology used, but in the quality of the manufacture of nodes and the sophistication of design ideas.

However, one significant difference between foil and rotary razors remains and will not go anywhere further - because it is directly related to the design of the shaving heads. This difference is in the movement of the razor (and, accordingly, the hand) during shaving. They shave with a foil razor in the same way as with a razor - with longitudinal movements against the direction of bristle growth.

For shaving with a rotary razor, such a scheme is absolutely non-optimal; circular movements of the razor head over the skin are used there, and, depending on the direction of bristle growth, the direction of “rotation” of the head should also be changed.

Thus, it can be said that it will be somewhat easier for a person who used to shave with a machine to master a mesh razor.

Shaving heads and their mobility

A standard rotary razor has 2-4 (three on average) rotating disks located at different angles to the surface of the face. At the moment of contact, the skin is pressed through, which ensures the best contact and penetration of the hairs inside the razor - to the knives. The heads themselves can be either fixed or movable (floating). Thanks to the mobility, the best fit is achieved, and therefore the quality of the shave is improved. Predictably, floating-head razors will be more expensive than their fixed-head counterparts.

Often, manufacturers provide a movable mount for the entire shaving unit, on which the heads are located. Due to this, the block can deviate in different directions and planes. It is believed that this solution provides a more accurate repetition of the contours of the face and a more comfortable shave in general.

Dry and wet shaving

The choice of a wet or dry razor is not only a matter of personal preference, but also of the environment in which the razor is intended to be used. For example, wet shaving can be difficult during business trips or vacations.

Wet shaving is traditionally attracted by the fact that the skin is steamed and further cleaned in the process. In addition, during wet shaving, foams and gels are used to provide additional care. Sometimes people who can’t shave dry with electric shavers due to constant skin irritation, wet shaving with gel endure quite calmly.

Wet razors tend to be easier to maintain: in most cases, removing residual hair is as simple as opening the shaver head and rinsing it under running water.

As for dry shaving, this method will not only be easier, but also more economical (since it does not require the purchase of foam and gels). Care for dry razors consists in cleaning its elements with a special brush.

Obviously, any razor that supports wet shaves also supports dry shaves, so the choice is essentially very simple: do you want to shave wet or not.

Cordless and corded shavers

Electric shavers can be powered from a conventional electrical network or from a battery. At the same time, some cordless shavers allow operation from the network, while others use the network solely to recharge the battery (but will not allow you to instantly shave with a discharged razor, even if an outlet is at hand).

It is hardly necessary to explain in detail the pros and cons of each of these options: they are pretty obvious. But to mention the various nuances will not be superfluous. So, for example, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to the type of battery. Nickel-cadmium (NiCD) or nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) unequivocally indicate that the razor belongs to the lower price category - with all the ensuing consequences. Lithium-ion (Li-Ion), on the contrary, indicates that at least the manufacturer did not save on the battery. If the type of battery is not mentioned anywhere at all, as a rule, one should prepare for the worst - that is, for the first option.

When choosing a rechargeable razor, it will not be superfluous to take an interest in such a parameter as battery capacity and calculate how many uses it will last. It’s good if the manufacturer indicates in the documentation the time for a full charge, and also how many minutes after the start of charging a completely discharged battery, the razor will be ready for full use: the situation when the battery is low and you need to shave urgently, alas, is not so rare. High-quality razors will allow you to shave within 5 minutes after the start of charging the battery.

Nozzles and accessories

The configuration and the availability of additional options determine what capabilities your razor will have and how comfortable it will be to use. Let's list the most popular features that modern razors offer.

Rotary Shaver Accessory Set

Many razors have a retractable blade or trimmer attachment that allows you to adjust the length of your shave. With a trimmer, you can trim mustaches and beards, as well as shape eyebrows. Often, the trimmer is implemented as a set of plastic combs with teeth of different lengths that regulate the distance between the base of the hairs and the cutting knives. Such an accessory is the cheapest, but regularly performs its task.

Pop-up trimmer head

For those who often shave away from home, the hair collection compartment can be useful, which eliminates the need to clean the sink or tub after each shave: most of the cut hairs will fall into a special container that only needs to be emptied from time to time.

Most modern shavers can be equipped with automatic skin moisturizing reservoirs as well as an automatic cleaning reservoir. The first of them, as you might guess, is filled with a moisturizing solution or gel, which is automatically applied to the skin directly during shaving. The second one is filled with a disinfectant solution, which is used for automatic care of the razor. After shaving, such a device is automatically cleaned, disinfected and dried. It is quite natural that such razors will be more expensive than simpler counterparts, and will also require additional costs for the purchase of special liquids. In addition, razors with an automatic cleaning function, as a rule, are charged only from a special “base”, which you will have to carry with you if you need to use the razor while traveling.

Panasonic Shaver Dock

The presence of a special travel case will simplify both storage and transportation of the razor: such an accessory will protect the device from bumps and dirt and is highly recommended for those who travel often and a lot.

Control and indication of various modes

Modern razors may have several different modes of operation or determine the most suitable mode automatically. So, for example, the sensor for determining the density of the bristles regulates the speed of rotation of the heads, choosing the desired shaving mode depending on the area of ​​the face being treated, and the sensor that measures the force of rotation of the knives will remind you that the time has come to clean the razor from the hairs clogged in the knives.

"Advanced" razors can be equipped with LED sensors or even miniature displays that display information about the state of charge, the need for cleaning, etc. Such models are expensive, but they are the best suited for geeks and lovers of the latest technology.

Ease of maintenance

Although many shavers only clean after a few uses, we would recommend cleaning the shaving head as often as possible, not only will this improve your shave, but it will also reduce blade wear. And therefore, before buying a razor, it will not be superfluous to make sure that the process of caring for the device does not cause any difficulties: hair residues can be easily removed with a special brush, and if the razor is marked “washable”, then dirt and hair residues can be removed, by placing the shaving head under running water.

A standard brush can be found with any razor.

Special docking stations with a disinfectant solution will provide automatic care of the razor: all that is required from the user is to fill in the disinfectant solution in time.

Operating cost

Most razors imply the need to replace the shaving heads after a certain time (you can usually read about this in the instructions for the device). In a foil razor, the shaving head lasts an average of about 1.5 years, in a rotary razor - up to 2 years. And therefore, it will not be superfluous to inquire about the cost of replacing heads before making a purchase (and not after it). Shavers with automatic skin moistening or automatic cleaning functions will require the purchase of special liquids, which will also affect the cost of daily operation.

Quite exotic

Braun releases a model of a mesh electric shaver with a shaving head (Peltier). In theory, due to this, it should irritate the skin even less, but the sensations of our experts were more of a “funny” than “delightful” series. And Braun's top mesh models still irritate the skin less - but they also cost more :)

Philips, traditionally using rotary technology, uses wireless charging in its latest top-of-the-line electric shavers. It looks stylish and "expensive-rich", but in reality it does not give any special advantages. Except that the waterproof case can now be made even more reliable, because nothing needs to be connected to it.

conclusions

When choosing between a rotary razor or a foil razor, remember that a rotary razor will likely work better on short stubble, but can cause skin irritation. Such razors may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin and those who are afraid of cuts. A foil razor is better suited for more delicate skin and longer hair (including trimming beards and mustaches).

• The closeness of a shave with foil razors can vary from model to model, but it is almost always necessary to keep in mind that the hairs being shaved will grind and stick to the skin of the face. But the mesh razor will almost always be more compact and easy to use.
• If the choice is on a rotary razor, you need to ask about the number of shaving heads (in most cases, three will be enough), and also (if there is no goal to save money) make sure that these heads are movable (that is, they can adapt to the contours of the face during shaving time).
• Depending on where and how you intend to use the razor, you need to decide on the preferred type of shave: wet shaving is better for home conditions, while dry shaving (without the use of gels) is available almost anywhere.
• When choosing between a corded shaver and a cordless shaver, you also need to consider whether the shaver will be used on trips or business trips. When choosing a cordless shaver, be sure to ask about the capacity of the battery and its type (different batteries have their own characteristics).
• The presence of special nozzles and accessories will not only expand the capabilities of the razor, but can also significantly simplify the process of caring for the device. True, each of the additional options will affect the price of the device.
• The presence of special indicators or a display will allow you to easily determine the status of the battery charge and get other relevant information about the current state of the device.
• The more often a razor is used, the more important it is to maintain ease of use: if possible, it is better to purchase a razor that can be washed under running water or even a razor with an automatic cleaning function.
• When choosing a razor by price, it will not be superfluous to find out the cost of replacing shaving heads, as well as consumables (if any are needed for the selected model).

A straight razor shaves better than any T-bar and any other shaving device. This statement has not been refuted for more than 100 years, since the invention of the safe machine, by our American comradein 1901. By the 80s of the 20th century, his infernal invention had practically destroyed the entire straight razor industry (King, are you upside down?). But, during this time, no one has managed to create a single shaving device that is more effective than a dangerous razor. Human laziness is the main driver of technological progress and profit. I am pleased to note the desire of many men to return to the origins of proper shaving. An old straight razor is perfect.

Why is buying an expensive straight razor justified?

1. Over the past five years (for 2018), the price tag for old straight razors has quadrupled, taking into account the fall of the ruble. There are fewer and fewer vintage razors every day, they will not be cheaper. This is a sensible investment in an old, antique thing that will honestly last for decades with proper use.
2. Shaving with a straight razor is a valuable, relaxing, meditative ritual. This is a completely different feeling, in contrast to the sensations that the most advanced machines give you. The price tag of machine tools is very immodest + the constant cost of good blades, which are not at all cheap, and their quality is indomitably falling. Replanting on consumables, holding on a short leash, business ...

Good, expensive, the machine does not shave badly, quickly, but the feeling that something is missing is obvious. There is not enough cleanliness of shaving, fetish, ritual ... He grabbed - shaved - ran away ... well, probably, if you do not pay attention to those pleasant little things that make up our whole fast life. A good vintage straight razor, when properly sharpened, shaves much more comfortably and cleanly, with proper use for about a year without resharpening.

I do not advise buying modern new razors, why? - .

I don't recommend buying vintage straight razors., without the subsequent possibility of presenting claims to the seller. Perhaps the seller will be a decent person and a good specialist. Otherwise, you will have a pencil sharpening tool worth 10-30 thousand. The desire to save money when buying an expensive razor at auctions will most likely not meet your expectations. The cost of repairing a purchased razor will surprise you very much. There are no good, high-quality sharpened razors at auctions - you can check, I have not seen them.

What should I look for when choosing a straight razor?

On the form, manufacturer? Which straight razor is better, with a large wide blade or a small narrow one? There is no single answer, it's a matter of preference.

Proponents of wide and heavy straight razors believe that large razors shave better due to the added weight. This is a controversial conclusion because the pressure of the razor on the hair is completely controlled by the hand, when comparing a heavy and light blade, the mechanism of cutting the hair is not considered.

When cutting or chopping a branch lying on a solid base, the weight of the tool will, of course, matter. But in the case when the branch is flexible, in our case it is hair, and it has one fixing point, the weight of the tool will not only not matter, but can create certain difficulties, depending on the delicacy of the work performed: the accuracy of movements will deteriorate, control over pressure. In this case, the sharpness of the razor blade will be a decisive advantage in choosing a tool.

When using narrow razors, it will be more difficult for a beginner to control the correct angle of the blade to the skin. With sufficient experience, razors with a narrow blade are, in my experience, preferable.

Let's imagine a scythe or a sickle - how does mowing take place? The same thing happens during a RIGHT shave. The meaning is the same: progressively - the cutting movement of the blade cutting grass, wheat ... bristles, the so-called "oblique cut".

Try cutting bread by pushing the blade vertically down... a very well-sharpened knife can do it. And if you do the pull with the blade, forward or backward? There is a difference? Do you cut the umbilical products with a knife by pressing from the bottom up? No. The correct shaving process is the same. 2 - 3 cm blade passage.

The cutting edge of a dangerous razor is a huge number of tiny micro teeth the size of nanometers. They are formed by risks from the abrasive with which the blade is sharpened.

What will happen if you put a well-sharpened razor blade with a cutting edge on the skin (not on your own!) And do not press hard on it? - nothing. And if you slightly stretch the blade forward or backward? - a cut is formed immediately. This is due to the fact that many micro teeth begin to act on each point of the cut surface. The smaller these teeth, the less force will have to be applied when cutting and the less movement of the blade will be required.

T-shaped machine cut hair, like an ax straight razor cuts hair with proper shaving technique. At the same time, a dangerous razor cuts the hair below the level of the skin, as if the hair is “squeezed out”. Along the way, dead cells of the upper layer of the skin (epidermis) are removed and . A very useful procedure for the skin and very expensive if you go to the Moscow SPA salon. The skin begins to "breathe", with each shave you rejuvenate your skin.

The blade of the machine is hidden in the frame. When the T-shaped machine moves, its frame presses the hair to the skin, and the blade cuts the hair in the place where it manages to get it, depending on the speed and pressure. As a result, “stumps” remain, by the evening you again feel a specific unshaven. After shaving with a straight razor, this sensation occurs twice as long.

I will put the quality of her sharpening, correct spiciness. The hair cut test is a very delicate process, there are many reasons not to trust it. Only a very good specialist, with a lot of practice, will be able to evaluate the quality of a razor cut through the hair. So shave and evaluate the razor for the comfort of shaving, video

First place when choosing a straight razor, I will put the quality of the steel from which it is made. It is the quality of the steel that determines the comfortable sharpness to which you can sharpen and how long the RK of this razor will be able to maintain this sharpness.

This is not a mistake, one without the other is not possible.A good razor with a bad sharpening will shave badly. Not a very good razor, with a good sharpening, it will shave well, but not for long. A good razor, with a good sharpening, it will shave perfectly and for a long time.

There is a common misconception among many users when trying to compare razors by country of origin: England - France - Japan - Germany - Sweden. The argument that English straight razors are the standard of quality, and French razors are inferior to them in shaving comfort, or vice versa, is a complete fallacy. English, French and other razors, having the same blade shape and made of similar, high-quality steel, will shave similarly, a beginner is unlikely to feel the difference. The most important condition for an objective comparison of different razors is the same quality of sharpening. When the razor was sharpened by the same hand, on the same abrasives, with the same technique. BLADE FORM - STEEL - SHARPENING - these are the components of your sensations when shaving with a straight razor. Comparing the shape of hollow ground and wedge blades is not at all correct, these are completely different razors in terms of shaving comfort and sensations. Wedge is ideal.

I will not argue, there are razors with a radius selection (Hollow Ground) that shave perfectly, but as a rule,This is an exception. Hollow crackle, crunch, for which they were nicknamed “singing razors”, someone likes it. Hollows are great for not thick and not hard bristles, now the questions will begin, what is hard / not hard bristles, ... try, I'm gone.

Regarding sharpening, I will explain with a simple example. Among other razors, I have long used the pre-war (CCW) C. Friedr. ERN. I liked this razor at the subconscious level, some positive energy emanated from it. The comfort of shaving, which she gave away, did not suit me for a long time. Many times I reworked her finishing sharpening, trying to find "her finishing stone" for her. The razor shaved well, but the thought did not leave me that it could give more. And it happened - freshly bought slate ****** uncovered this razor. Without going into details, I will note the meaning of what was written: a single user, having a long experience of shaving with a specific razor, was very surprised by the changed shaving comfort after changing the conditions for sharpening the razor. Each razor requires an individual approach. Everything here is very individual, do not rush to draw conclusions. Try, feel, evaluate.

Fatal error: most users rate the razor in the condition in which it fell into their hands. Many naively believe in the promises of the seller that the razor is well sharpened.99% of the razors I've come across from auctions as "ready for use" have not been sharpened. Few of the sellers keep their promises about the quality of the razor and its sharpening, often the sellers are completely clueless. They sell straight razors without really understanding what they're selling. “The razor is very sharp – the paper cuts – very well” – something like that. They have never shaved with a straight razor, but at the same time, they try to give some smart recommendations ... amazing people. Their cspruce - to suck you in with a razor. If you come to your senses and try to get your money back, most likely you will receive an answer that you personally ruined the razor - goodbye.

I do not advise you to buy new DOVO, BOKER, WACKER, and even more so the recently appeared MOUHLE (2018), made by no one knows who, like other new-made self-cuts, the quality of these razors often does not meet the definition of a “straight razor”. Initially, there will be problems with repairing the cutting edge and sharpening the razor. There is a possibility that a good specialist will not be able to prepare your new razor for comfortable use. There will be no joy from the purchase. I observe a continuous serial marriage on the market. If you are a stubborn Indian, give it a try. . If you want to give a gift to yourself or someone and do not understand the topic of straight razors, you can very disappoint the new owner of the razor. New razors out of the box are sold unsharpened, which has always been the case, with the exception of very expensive Japanese ones. Some of the brand new razors cannot be properly prepared for use - these are factory corpses.

What should be ? This is a matter of preference, the comfort of shaving does not depend on the shape of the RK. There are straight edge razorsthere are razors that have some kind of “blade smile”. The "smile of the blade" is an arc whose center is located behind the butt. Exists and dangerous razors. These razors are rather collectible, I don’t see practicality in their form. The concept of " O” is a blade defect. This is an arc whose center is in front of the working edge. This defect occurs when the blade is not properly sharpened or has a crooked restoration. Sharpening a “reverse smile” razor without repairing the cutting edge is very difficult.

greatly affects the comfort of shaving. Wedges are best for hard and thick bristles. A true wedge is a blade in the shape of a non-isosceles triangle - there are very few razors like this. Other razors, which are called "wedges", have some radius sampling - near wadge (almost a wedge). A wedge (almost a wedge) is the perfect shaving solution. Old wedges are the benchmark for shaving comfort. They were made of excellent steel, each razor forged by hand until the end of the 19th century. In the 20th century, stamped hollow ground began to be made everywhere, razors lost their uniqueness.

Straight razor blade size FOR BEGINNERS

For beginners, a size in the range from 5/8 - to 13/16 inches, this is 15 - 22 mm, will be convenient. A narrow blade, like a wide one, will be more difficult for a beginner to shave due to the control over the angle of the blade to the skin.

The shape of the blade head can be chosen to be round, butthis is not definitive advice. A blade with a straight head, at first, may cause subconscious fears until confident motor skills of movements are developed. If you follow the elementary rules that I recommend - this will not happen, I always make a microradius at the very tip of the blade. Straight razors with a straight head are more convenient for shaving the mustache and temples.

In general, that sharp razor with which you are comfortable is good.

TB - Safety (IMPORTANT)

Be very careful with a sharpened razor. Always hold an open razor just behind, like a snake by the neck, only in this case it will not bite you. Picked up a dangerous razor - shave. All other actions with the razor will result in either injury or damage. For example, if you cut a sheet of A4 paper with a sharpened razor, this razor will no longer shave without resharpening.