Seams: types of simple and decorative stitches (pictures)

Seams: types of simple and decorative stitches (pictures)

While sewing or embroidering, various stitches are used to create and design their work. Making each one is an art worth learning.
Decorative and finishing seams are designed to create a pattern, decorate, and connect details in a special way. Videos of their performance seem incredibly complicated, but it's worth a try, because the result is irresistible.

Types of seams

Seams are:

• simple;
• looped;
• embroidery.

Simple seams Similar types are used to connect parts and in cases where they will be visible on the finished product.
Seam forward needle, the simplest, the needle goes forward, leaving behind a straight line of thread.
Seam back the needle. The needle at work passes beyond the exit point of the thread from the inside. The stitch on the outside goes in the direction opposite to the direction of the seam. The result is a convex thin seam, double on the wrong side.

The technology is exactly the same as in the previous one, only the stitch comes out on the front side at about the middle of the height of the previous one. The front stitches are long, as if lying on top of each other, the wrong ones are also oblique, but short.
The zigzag seam is carried out according to the technology back into the needle, however, the entrance to the wrong side is carried out alternately at two levels.
The seam of the corners is made similarly to the previous one, however, here the stitches are repeated twice, due to which the result is voluminous. By passing through two different heights, triangles are formed.
Underlay eight. They are formed from two parallel lines of stitches. They are performed forward, but with a transition in height. From the wrong side we get schematic figure eights.


Seam "forward needle"
Seam "back needle"

stalk seam

Seam "Zigzag"
Seam "corners"
"Eight" Very often used
both machine and manual, they are simply necessary for stitching parts, parts and parts of the product.
Looped

Chain stitchDecorative stitches of this type are formed thanks to convex loops. The loops cling to each other, to the working thread or to the warp in various ways, forming various patterns.

A loop is embroidered, the ends of which are located close to each other. On the back side, we stretch the thread to the edge of the loop, bring the thread out and form the next loop. As a result, we get wide decorative seams from loops emerging from each other.

Seam "Loop"To create decorative elements, decorating seams are used:

• a loop;
• half loop;
• eight on the vestibule;
• all kinds of stitches.

The seam loop consists of separately lying large loops. The entry and exit points of the thread are located side by side. The loop body is attached to the base. The hinges are empty and can be positioned as needed. With the help of such loops, various patterns can be formed.

Half-loop stitch A half-loop stitch is created from a semi-circle from a loop. To do this, the entry and exit points are spaced to the desired width. Half of the loop remains, attached with a transverse stitch.
If
the vestibule is made in the form of a vicious circle, then cross-eights can be formed in the centers of the loops. It is carried out as an underlay eight, with the difference that the eights pass along the front side.
Palestrina buttonhole stitch. First, an oblique long stitch is sewn, after which a loop is wrapped around the bottom. The second loop wraps around the top. The thread goes to the wrong side and the next slant stitch is sewn at the same height as the previous one.


Seam "Palestrina"

Seam "Palestrina"

Seam "Palestrina"

Seam "Palestrina" Another subspecies of buttonhole seams is a rare buttonhole seam. The needle passes from top to bottom, leaving on the front side just above the lying loop. Each next stitch holds the previous one.
Similarly to the previous one, the thorn seam is performed. With the difference that the needle sticks from different sides of the already created loop, creating stitches in different directions from it. Such spines may consist of two, three or more stitches. If there are a lot of them, the spines become like stars or snowflakes. If you perform it in 4 stitches and connect the stitches of adjacent spines together, you will get a pattern in the form of a row of rhombuses, such a seam is called a rhombus.
The seam of the knot is performed by overlapping the working thread around the needle. The needle goes to the front side and goes back at almost the same point, leaving behind a twisted bunch of thread. Such types of them look like a sequence of nodules, hence the name.
Rococo seam. The needle makes a small stitch from the wrong side, remaining in the fabric. Several turns of thread are wound around the tip of the needle. The working thread is pulled through these turns. The second pass of the thread through the turns with a pass through the wrong side secures the stitch.
The buttonhole seam with flooring is performed in 2 stages. The first step is to embroider 2 parallel strips of the base. Embroidery takes place in the way back to the needle. There should be no gap between the seams. The second stage is the laying of loops perpendicular to the strips. The needle passes through the wrong side, coming out under the base lines and securing the loop of the previous stitches. We get a convex strip of decorative trim.

Rare buttonhole stitch
Buttonhole seam "thorns"
Seam "Knots"

Seam "Rococo"

Buttonhole seam with decking

Counted seams

With counted embroidery, the types of seams are not so diverse. The main type of embroidery when counting is a cross, hence the types of seams:

• vertical cross;
• diagonal cross;
• cross horizontally.

The formation of these embroidery stitches is made during the embroidery process and depends on the direction of movement of the crosses.

Vertical seam cross

Diagonal cross stitch
Horizontal cross seam The same type includes square and painted seams. Both are performed with elements forward of the needle, while the pattern is formed after a double pass in one place.

expanse

For the surface, decorative seams are most characteristic and many looped seams can also be considered elements.
.
A simple double-sided stitch, when the needle constantly goes to the front side on one side of the pattern. With such embroidery, the same pattern is formed both from the front and from the wrong side.
With a smooth surface with a flooring, the outline is first embroidered, after that it is filled with stitches, and only then the filling of the outline passes through them. The bottom and top layers should be perpendicular.
Stitching of embroidery figures can be done with long and short stitches, while they lie in the same direction. If you change the length of the stitches in the rows and embroider different rows in different colors, we get a seam with an infusion of colors.

can serve to fill the figure they have formed, the contour is closed first. It looks like a solid, bright element.
The scallops and satin roll are made in the same way as the buttonhole with flooring. For scallops, the base is first embroidered with an intermittent seam forward of the needle in the form of semicircles. For the roller, 2 free threads are taken, laid out according to the pattern. In both cases, the top layer is made with loops fastened to each other. Such decorative seams are often used to decorate tablecloths and napkins.
The most common stitch embroidery method is darning. A series of parallel stitches is made, then the direction changes to perpendicular and each of them is woven between the existing ones, as in fabric.


double sided

Surface with flooring

Seam with scallops
Satin roller
Darning stitch Decorative fill stitches for satin stitch embroidery This includes the following types of stitches:

• fish bone;
• Cretan;
• half loop.

The half-loop seam for the surface differs only in the frequency of overlapping arcs. If rather large distances between them were allowed for embroidery stitches, then when embroidering with a stitch, this distance should not be at all.
Fish bone can be of two types. In the first case, these are 2 parts of a simple double-sided surface, connected together. In each part, the smooth surface is embroidered in its own direction. A zigzag is formed at the junction of the stitches. They are performed alternately - in one direction and in the other. The embossed seam of the fish bone is performed in a similar way, with the only difference being that the stitches of different sides do not touch, but overlap each other.
The Cretan seam is performed in the same way as a fish bone, only at the end of each stitch, not just the needle is stuck, but the loop is fastened. Combination of double-sided smoothness and buttonhole seam.

Stitch half-loop stitch
Seam "Fish bone"

Chinese seam
Welt This satin stitch creates incredibly delicate and beautiful embroidery patterns used as a trim for beds, accessories and clothing. The inner part of the pattern is cut out, and the edges are processed with loops. The English slotted surface and more complex execution of intricate patterns - cutwork are made with a gladium roller and a roller with pico.
It is advisable not to complete the incised pattern until the holemaking has been completed. Along the edge of the future slot, a needle is stitched forward using the method. Then a looped seam is applied over it with a roller.
All seams require attention, patience and experience. For everything to work out, it is enough just to want.

Video: types of hand seams

Comments

related posts:

Buttonhole stitch, back stitch needle and types of hand stitches (pictures)

This post is about embroidery stitches. There is even such a direction in patchwork, which is practically unthinkable without embroidery - crazy quilt.

This design of the upper part of the patchwork product is quite common.

Even if your quilt is sewn on a sewing machine, you can give it a unique look by making a few elements of hand decor.

Before starting, I want to draw your attention to the fact that when performing decorative seams, in other words, when embroidering, you should not make fastening knots. In order to start some kind of decorative seam, you should insert a thread folded in half into the eye of the needle. Make sure that the edge on which there is a loop formed by the fold of the thread is longer. Always perform the first puncture of the fabric from the face of the work from yourself inwards, as if on the wrong side. Immediately, without pushing the needle to the end, bring its tip out at the same point but towards you. Then pull the needle through and get it into the loop at the end of the thread. Pull the thread through to the end - you have secured it to the fabric, but without a knot.

If you run out of thread, then enter the tip of the needle inward, moving in the opposite direction. Pass it with the tip between the previous stitches, and then bring the needle to the front side, but so far that this distance exceeds the length of the remaining thread on the needle. Straighten the product and the tip of the thread will go inside. There is no need to execute the final node. There is also such a variant of completion - first execute quiltuzel, then pull the needle through as described above. Bringing the needle to the surface of the quilt, it is necessary to tighten not only the product, but also the thread itself, so that your knot goes inside.

Seam "scalloped" - connecting, but using some liberties, we can decorate our products with it. We said that this seam is made along the edge of the overlay and connects it to the background. The same seam can be done not along the edge and without the presence of an application. You can use them with both straight and wavy lines. With it, you can embroider any shape, both geometric and floral, and the height of the stitches can be different along the line. You can make two lines side by side, but in different colors.

There are many options, it is even possible double or triple scalloped seam.

The photo shows the execution of the double - the usual scalloped, but at a certain stage we enter the needle twice into the same point of the fabric. Triple - according to the same system, entering a certain point 3 times and performing 2 oblique stitches in different directions and between them one in the center.

With a scalloped seam, you can make small motifs moving in a circle and each time returning to the center. If you need larger motifs with a free center, they can be made in regular scalloped, or double or triple.

If you do only half a circle, and then the rest of the half circle, but with an offset, you can get an interesting wavy decor line. On the first photo about you can see something similar.

And another interesting version of this seam - scalloped with bar. It is more convenient to perform it from left to right:

1. Insert the needle into point 1, stepping back a little to the right and up, stick it into point 2 and bring it to ourselves in point 3. The needle is strictly vertical and directed with its nose down. The working thread should be under the needle. We stretch the needle and thread, making sure that the thread fits snugly against the fabric.

2. Step back 1-2 mm to the right and enter point 4, and exit point 5. The needle is strictly vertical, but its nose is already pointing up. Stretch the needle, and then the thread, but just enough to get the needle into the jumper loop formed at the bottom of the seam. This should be done by directing the needle from top to bottom.

And this seam also has options. It may look like triangular teeth if the punctures in the so-called. 2-3 do not vertically, but obliquely. Then lengthen the jumper to about 5 mm, and so on. 2 and 5 remain the same "good neighbors". However, this is the same double scalloped seam, but performed somewhat differently.

Seam "Tambour" - it is quite simple, from right to left.

	1. We fix the thread in t.1 2. Right next to it, we pierce the fabric in v.2 and withdraw the needle moving forward in v.3. The working thread should pass under the needle. We stretch the needle, and after it the thread. 2. We repeat point 2 many times, making sure that each p. 2 falls into the inside of the loop formed by the working thread.
	If you increase the distance between the b.t. 1 and 2, we get tambour open seam.It is much more convenient to perform it from top to bottom. The needle is always directed diagonally from the upper right corner to the lower left. It is important to ensure that each puncture in p. 4 falls into the inside of the loop formed by the working thread. If we reduce the distance between the b.t. 1 and 3 to a minimum, we get a dense volumetric roller.
	If the usual chain stitch is performed by laying the needle along an inclined line, alternating its movements up and down, then we get "zigzag tambour" the seam. In the picture, the needle, as it were, enters the thread in point 4, but let's remember that we have a double thread. When sticking the needle into point 4, you need to get between the threads. This will secure the position of the seam on the corners.

Seam "Looped". A kind of zigzag, but more like a twig with leaves, can be obtained by performing a “Looped” seam. It is done either from top to bottom or from bottom to top. It is more convenient for me to perform it from below, but the scheme is directed differently, therefore, according to the scheme, it is performed like this:

1. Fasten the thread in t.1

2. Pierce the fabric away from you in point 2 and go back to point 3, but so that the working thread passes under the needle. Pull the needle and thread through to the end. You have formed a "leaf".

3. Step back down the slope and make punctures in t.t. 4 and 5 by guiding the needle in an upward direction. Pull the needle and thread through to the end.

4. Now all movements are repeated from point 2, but in a mirror image. Points 5 and 6 correspond to points 1 and 2. And t.t. 3 and 4 correspond to T.T. 7 and 8.

5. Exact repetition of points 2-4. It is important to remember that we are moving from top to bottom, which means that the work must be held in hand so as to go in the right direction.

Seam "Herringbone" - is actually a variant of the open chain stitch. Only in the "herringbone" one mount and it is in the center. This makes it possible to change direction while embroidering. So, in order:

	1. Fasten the thread in t.1 2. Moving but inclined, we perform movement 2-3. We follow that the slave. the thread passed under the needle. Pull the needle, and behind it the thread. 3. Stepping back to the right, but at the level of point 3, we perform the movement 4-5. Again, the thread under the needle. Stretch everything. Your Christmas tree can be made fluffier by extending it in every direction. To do this, v.6 must be done neither on the left, but on the right (as you did movement 3-4, but lower one level). And for symmetry to the left, you need to do the same number of repetitions of the 5-6 movement described in paragraph 3.
	If we make one fastening in the “herringbone”, but not in the center, but on the side, then we will get such a decorative strip if we follow the following procedure: 1. Fasten the thread in t. 1 2. Insert the needle into point 2 (opposite, but slightly higher) and bring it out into point 3. Slave. Thread under the needle. After pulling out the needle, tighten the thread. 3. Return to point 1 by performing movement 4-5, so that point 5 is slightly lower than the level of point 3. After pulling out the needle, tighten the thread. 4. We repeat the steps from point 2. The diagram shows the movement from top to bottom. It is much more convenient for me to do it the other way around or from right to left.
	If you work according to the same scheme, but do not combine p.4 with p.1, but leave a certain distance between them, then the embroidered strip will look a little different. You can also change it somewhat if you embroider additional elements in a different color. You will get a branch with berries or candles on a Christmas tree. You can call it whatever you like :o)... http://quiltstudio.ru/?p=187

The simplest decorative seams are discussed above. Of course, there are many more. Just look at what beauty can be done with a little imagination...

Even if your quilt is sewn on a sewing machine, you can give it a unique look by making a few elements of hand decor. In this case, we will talk about embroidery seams. This design of the upper part of the patchwork product is quite common. In patchwork there is even such a direction that is almost unthinkable without embroidery - crazy quilt.

Before starting, I want to draw your attention to the fact that when performing decorative seams, in other words, when embroidering, you should not make fastening knots. In order to start some kind of decorative seam, you should insert a thread folded in half into the eye of the needle. Make sure that the edge on which there is a loop formed by the fold of the thread is longer. Always perform the first puncture of the fabric from the face of the work from yourself inwards, as if on the wrong side. Immediately, without pushing the needle to the end, bring its tip out at the same point but towards you. Then pull the needle through and get it into the loop at the end of the thread. Pull the thread to the end - you have secured it to the fabric, but without a knot.

If you run out of thread, then enter the tip of the needle inward, moving in the opposite direction. Pass it with the tip between the previous stitches, and then bring the needle to the front side, but so far that this distance exceeds the length of the remaining thread on the needle. Straighten the product and the tip of the thread will go inside. There is no need to execute the final node. This option is also possible - first quiltuzel, then pull the needle through as described above. Bringing the needle to the surface of the quilt, it is necessary to tighten not only the product, but also the thread itself, so that your knot goes inside.

The seam "scalloped"- was mentioned by us as connecting, but using some liberties, we can decorate our products with it. We said that this seam is made along the edge of the overlay and connects it to the background. The same seam can be done not along the edge and without the presence of an application. You can use them with both straight and wavy lines. With it, you can embroider any shape, both geometric and floral, and the height of the stitches can be different along the line. You can make two lines side by side, but in different colors.

There are many options, it is even possible double or triple scalloped seam.

The photo shows the execution of a double one - the usual scalloped one, but at a certain stage we enter the needle twice into the same point of the fabric. Triple - according to the same system, entering a certain point 3 times and performing 2 oblique stitches in different directions and between them one in the center.

With a scalloped seam, you can make small motifs moving in a circle and each time returning to the center. If you need larger motifs with a free center, they can be made in regular scalloped, or double or triple.

If you do only half a circle, and then the rest of the half circle, but with an offset, you can get an interesting wavy decor line. On the first photo about you can see something similar.

And another interesting version of this seam - scalloped with bar.

It is more convenient to perform it from left to right:

1. Insert the needle into point 1, stepping back a little to the right and up, stick it into point 2 and bring it to ourselves in point 3. The needle is strictly vertical and directed with its nose down. The working thread should be under the needle. We stretch the needle and thread, making sure that the thread fits snugly against the fabric.

2. Step back 1-2 mm to the right and enter point 4, and exit point 5. The needle is strictly vertical, but its nose is already pointing up. Stretch the needle, and then the thread, but just enough to get the needle into the jumper loop formed at the bottom of the seam. This should be done by directing the needle from top to bottom.

And this seam also has options. It may look like triangular teeth if the punctures in the so-called. 2-3 do not vertically, but obliquely. Then lengthen the jumper to about 5 mm, and so on. 2 and 5 remain the same "good neighbors". However, this is the same double scalloped seam, but performed somewhat differently.

The seam "Tambura"- it is quite simple, from right to left.

1. We fix the thread in t.1

2. Right next to it, we pierce the fabric in v.2 and withdraw the needle moving forward in v.3. The working thread should pass under the needle. We stretch the needle, and after it the thread.

2. We repeat point 2 many times, making sure that each p. 2 falls into the inside of the loop formed by the working thread.

If you increase the distance between the b.t. 1 and 2, we get. It is much more convenient to perform it from top to bottom. The needle is always directed diagonally from the upper right corner to the lower left. It is important to ensure that each puncture in p. 4 falls into the inside of the loop formed by the working thread. If we reduce the distance between the b.t. 1 and 3 to a minimum, we get a dense volumetric roller.

If the usual chain stitch is performed by laying the needle along an inclined line, alternating its movements up and down, then we get "zigzag tambour" the seam. In the picture, the needle, as it were, enters the thread in point 4, but let's remember that we have a double thread. When sticking the needle into point 4, you need to get between the threads. This will secure the position of the seam on the corners.

Some kind of zigzag, but more like a branch with leaves, can be obtained by doing "Looped" the seam. It is done either from top to bottom or from bottom to top. It is more convenient for me to perform it from below, but the scheme is directed differently, therefore, according to the scheme, it is performed like this:

1. Fasten the thread in t.1

2. Pierce the fabric away from you in point 2 and go back to point 3, but so that the working thread passes under the needle. Pull the needle and thread through to the end. You have formed a "leaf".

3. Step back down the slope and make punctures in t.t. 4 and 5 by guiding the needle in an upward direction. Pull the needle and thread through to the end.

4. Now all movements are repeated from point 2, but in a mirror image. Points 5 and 6 correspond to points 1 and 2. And t.t. 3 and 4 correspond to T.T. 7 and 8.

5. Exact repetition of points 2-4. It is important to remember that we are moving from top to bottom, which means that the work must be held in hand so as to go in the right direction.

It's the same stitch, but "Looped in a circle", may look like in the picture, but if you make only 3 petals, we get a trefoil, and if 4 in the form of a crosshair, we get a flower, for example, lilac. The letters "a" and "b" indicate the procedure. Under "c" it is shown how you can beat the standard version by performing 3 attachments in a row in the form of a brush. And finally, “g” is the strengthening of the center. If you change the color of the thread, a spectacular center is formed at the flower.

The seam "Herringbone"- is actually a variant of the open chain stitch. Only in the "herringbone" one mount and it is in the center. This makes it possible to change direction while embroidering. So, in order:

1. Fasten the thread in t.1

2. Moving but inclined, we perform movement 2-3. We follow that the slave. the thread passed under the needle. Pull the needle, and behind it the thread.

3. Stepping back to the right, but at the level of point 3, we perform the movement 4-5. Again, the thread under the needle. Stretch everything.

Your Christmas tree can be made fluffier by extending it in every direction. To do this, v.6 must be done neither on the left, but on the right (as you did movement 3-4, but lower one level). And for symmetry to the left, you need to do the same number of repetitions of the 5-6 movement described in paragraph 3.

When we talk about embroidery, the first thing that comes to mind is cross stitch. But in the world there are a huge number of other decorative stitches and embroidery techniques. Decorative seams - does not mean complicated at all. It is often easier to embroider with them than with a cross. Many handmade decorative stitches do not require such a scrupulous calculation as a cross, they “forgive” the mistakes of inexperienced fingers. There is another plus. With simple stitches, you can embroider not on canvas, but on ordinary fabric. Embroider immediately on the corner of the tablecloth, or decorate jeans with decorative seams. Lots of options! And no canvas. You can even make spectacular embroidery with a “forward needle” seam. Where is it easier? What can we say about the potential of the chain stitch or "French knots".

The simple stitches that we are about to cover will be a great embroidery material for beginner needlewomen.

Straight stitch.

This is the most basic stitch. With it, you can embroider anything. It can be laid in any direction, any length.

Snowflake with straight stitches. We draw a circle, we outline the middle. We mark the circle into the required number of dots-petals. We take the needle out of the center and make stitches, all the while returning the needle to the center. V-A; S-A; D-A and so on.

Seam "forward needle"

Perhaps the most famous simple seam. To decorate it, you can change the length of the stitches: for example, 2 short 1 long, etc.

Stitch - a very beautiful independent embroidery. It was especially widespread in the middle of the last century. Perhaps, at someone's house, grandmother's satin stitch embroidery - pillowcases, napkins - has been preserved. You can use the smooth surface as an element for filling. The stitches in this technique are placed neatly parallel to each other along the entire shape to be filled.

How to sew with satin stitch: First, draw the desired shape on the fabric. We start at the edge of the drawing. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick it in at point B, and then we bring it out to the face at point C, next to point A. We continue to embroider tightly putting the stitches one next to the other.

Stitch or seam "back of the needle"

The back stitch of the needle is often used: they embroider stems, inscriptions, make a stroke (for example, in cross-stitching). Sew by hand when you need to sew two parts tightly.

How to sew with a needle back stitch: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle from the wrong side at point A. We stick it at point B, it is behind point A. And then we bring it to the face at point C, it is in front of point A. We make the next stitch by sticking the needle at point A and bring it out in front of point C.

stalk seam

Like the “back to the needle” stitch, stalk stitch embroidery is used for stems, inscriptions, contour drawings.

How to sew with a stem stitch: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the line. We make stitch B-C, point C is in the middle between A and B. The following stitches: D - B, E - Di.etc. The thread, when performing stitches, must always remain on one side. When the line is bent, the stitches may fall apart, whatever this happens, the stitches can be made smaller.

Seam "fern"

Decorative seam. The seam "fern" looks like a stem with leaves. To make the picture look more natural, you can change the angle of inclination and the length of the leaves.

How to sew with a seam "fern": Draw a curved line. We bring the needle from the wrong side at point A at some distance from the beginning of the line. We stick the needle at point B (the beginning of the line)) and bring it to the face at point C (on the side of the intended line), pull the thread. We make stitch A - D (point D is on the other side of the intended line), pull the thread. Next, we make a stitch A - E along the line. It turns out a branch.

chain stitch

One of the most common and beautiful decorative seams. A small, children's machine "Grasshopper" sews with this seam. They begin to embroider with a chain stitch in kindergarten, for some reason it is believed that it is very simple. They can sew along a line, outline a pattern, embroider an inscription, and even fill out a shape.

How to sew with a chain stitch: We bring the needle from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle at point B (next to point A) and bring it to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread until we pass it under the formed loop. Next, we make the following loop: we inject the needle near point C (inside the previous loop) and bring it out at point E. Again we thread it into the loop formed, etc. In order to finish the seam, we stick the needle at point F and bring the thread to the wrong side.

Buttonhole or edge seam

With this seam, the edge of the products is processed, overcast in manual buttonholes. It looks very nice and is easy to make. Can be used as a decorative stitch.

How to sew with a buttonhole stitch: We bring out the needle from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle at point B and bring it out to the face at point C, but do not stretch the thread until we pass it under the needle. We continue to put the stitches from left to right. When the row is finished, we stick the needle at point D just behind the loop. Try to place the stitches at an equal distance from each other.

You can alternate the length of the legs of the stitches - it will turn out beautifully.

Tambour loop (flower)

The chain stitch is a variant of the chain stitch in which each loop in the chain is embroidered separately. If you embroider several tambour loops around the central point, you will get a flower. The leaf will come out of a separate tambour loop

How to embroider with a tambour loop: We bring out the needle from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle at point B (next to point A) and bring it out to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread until we pass it under the formed loop. Next, we stick the needle at point D, thereby closing the petal-loop, and bring it out at point A. We continue to make the petals in a circle.

Open decorative loop or Y-loop or half-loop

This loop is similar to the chain loop, but with an open end. With an open decorative loop, you can embroider petals on a flower, or rays of the sun.

How to embroider with an open decorative loop: We bring out the needle from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle at point B (away from point A) and bring it out to the face at point C, put the thread under the needle and pull it out. Next, we stick the needle at point D, thereby securing the thread. Stitch C-D can be made in different lengths.

Velvet seam, or "goat"

Decorative velvet seam, similar to a series of crosses, close to each other. It is carried out in two parallel lines.

How to make a velvet seam: Draw two parallel lines. We work from left to right. We bring the needle from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the intended line of the top line. We make a back stitch on the bottom line B - C, then a back stitch on the top line D-E, etc.

Seam "Christmas tree"

The herringbone seam is very decorative. It is pleasant to embroider, and it is easy to perform. You can sew evenly and accurately, then you get a strict geometric pattern. And you can vary the slope and length of the stitches, then the pattern will come out more natural.

How to sew a herringbone seam: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the intended line. We stick the needle at point B (on the side of point A)) and bring it to the face at point C (in front along the intended line), pull the thread, after passing it under the needle. It turned out to be a half loop. We make stitch D - E (point D is on the other side of the intended line), pull the thread, also passing it under the needle. We continue to embroider. At the end, to secure the seam, we bring the needle to the wrong side on the other side of the loop, as in a chain stitch

Seam "chicken track" or "fish skeleton"

It is good to embroider the leaves of plants with this decorative seam, as if it was specially created for this. You can sew by putting the thread tightly together. And you can embroider freely, get an openwork leaf.

How to make a “chicken footprint” seam: Let's draw a shape (for example, a leaf). We bring the needle from the inside out in the corner of the drawn shape at point A and make a straight stitch B-C (point B is on the central axis, point C is on the edge on the stroke line). Next, we make a stitch D-E (D - from the other edge on the stroke line, E - on the central axis), we put the thread under the needle and pull the thread. We fix the thread by inserting the needle at point F and bring it out next to point C. We continue to embroider until we fill out the entire shape.

french knot

The French knot is used in embroidery as an element. They protrude slightly above the surface of the embroidery. Often, with the help of a French knot, the centers of flowers are made. If you place the knots close to each other, you can get curly hair.

How to embroider a French knot: Bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. With your left hand, circle the thread around the needle twice. We turn the needle perpendicular to the fabric and stick it in at point B (next to point A), pulling the wrap tightly. We bring the needle inside out, and on the front side we get a knot.

Seam "sheaf"

This seam is named so because it really resembles sheaves of wheat. The "sheaf" seam is easy to perform and looks original. He can decorate a napkin.

How to make a “sheaf” seam: We make three straight stitches (1.2 cm long, 0.3 cm gap) We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A, in the middle between the first and second stitch. We wrap the needle and thread twice around three stitches, pulling the thread tightly. To finish the knot, we stick the needle at point B.

seam "sheaf"

Seam "spider"

Beautiful and original decorative seam. The number of basic stitches must be odd. It is interesting to use threads of different colors in this seam for basic stitches and for wrapping. If the twist is not made along the entire length of the stitches, then you get the sun or a flower. For wrapping it is better to use a blunt needle, or wrap the other side of the needle around.

How to make a seam "spider": Draw a circle, outline the middle. We make a snowflake with straight stitches. There should be an odd number of rays. We bring out a needle with a blunt end from the wrong side at point A (closer to the center. We wrap the rays, bringing the needle under them, then above them, alternating. Fill the base in a spiral outward. Finish the embroidery, stretch the thread to the wrong side.

The seam is simple, but very effective!

Seam "flooring"

It’s fun to embroider with a “flooring” seam, it is somewhat similar to a “spider” seam. It turns out a piece of floating fabric. You can twist two warp threads - you get a petal or a leaf for a flower. From several warp threads, you can make a large leaf. And you can play with the tension of the thread-twisting - you get different interesting shapes. It is interesting to take different colors of threads for the warp and twist.

How to make a “flooring” seam: We lay two straight stitches on the fabric, not very distant from one another. We pull out the twisting thread at the beginning of the resulting stitches and draw the needle over the first thread and under the second. We turn the needle and, without touching the fabric, again draw the needle over the first thread and under the second. (Counting goes on the other side). Continue until the warp threads are completely filled.

Coiled knots or rococo

For the Rococo knot, the thread is wrapped around the needle and a voluminous stitch is obtained. This knot is rather complicated in execution, but effective. They can embroider rose petals, furry animals or dreadlocks.

How to make Rococo knots: We bring the needle from the wrong side at point A. We make a stitch B-A (about 0.6 cm) With the left hand we circle the thread around the needle seven times. Holding the wound thread on the needle, we push the needle through the winding and fabric, while the knot will slide to point B. Gently distribute the winding along the entire stitch. To finish the knot, we stick the needle at point B.

decorative mesh

Decorative mesh is good for quickly filling large spaces. Large long stitches fill the entire shape in the vertical and horizontal direction. And at the intersection of the threads, small crosses can be made with a contrasting thread or a thread of the same color.

How to embroider a decorative mesh: At the first stage, we fill the entire form with straight vertical stitches from edge to edge at an equal distance from each other. On the second - we do the same thing only we put horizontal stitches. And at the end, to attach our threads to the fabric, we embroider a cross at each intersection.

We transfer the pattern to the fabric.

Method 1. If the fabric is thin enough, then you can transfer the pattern with glazing. For this, a backlit table or ordinary window glass is used. Tape the drawing to the glass with tape, put the fabric on top and stick it with tape too. Outline the drawing with a pencil or water-soluble marker.

Method 2. On a thick or dark fabric, you can transfer the pattern using a carbon paper. We put the fabric on a flat surface, then a carbon paper, with the colored side to the fabric, then our drawing. Outline the drawing with a ballpoint pen. So that the lines do not erase the pattern on the fabric, it is advisable to circle it with a water-soluble marker.

Method 3. We print the picture we need on an inkjet printer. We put the fabric on the ironing board, on top of the pattern, printed side down and iron it with an iron without steam. If the drawing is not bright, you can circle it with a marker. The resulting lines are not erased in this way, and one more thing: your drawing will be mirrored on the material.

Centering the drawing

To find the middle on the rectangle, you need to fold the fabric or paper pattern in half. Draw a line along the fold line. We do the same horizontally. The intersection of the lines will be the middle.

If the pattern is not rectangular: fold it in both directions, matching the widest and longest parts of the pattern. Draw with a pencil along the fold line.

We put the fabric and paper drawing on the table, combining horizontal and vertical lines.

Details of clothing are connected into one whole with the help of seams. For this, a needle is used. With its help, stitches are made with a thread on a fabric or other material, their complete set forms a seam.

Before the invention of sewing machines, all work was done by hand. At home and in handicraft production, this practice still exists today. A manual seam is also indispensable at the initial stage of creating clothing models. Various sewing techniques are used to decorate the fabric.

Sewing principles

A suture connection is formed by interweaving one or more threads in a certain sequence. It is advisable to temporarily fasten individual elements of patterns at the initial stage. This connection is usually done by hand. After fitting and final finishing, the hand seam is replaced by a machine stitch.

Depending on the end goal, clothing pieces can be connected in various ways. In this case, the seams will differ significantly in stitch density, strength, etc.

In some cases, it is not the quality of the connection that comes first, but the decorative properties of laying the threads on the front surface. Such seams are called decorative and they serve to finish the finished product.

The completed movement of the needle with the thread forms a stitch on the material. The sequence of such actions is called a line. The connection of a section of material, made in one or more lines, forms a seam.

Regardless of the technique, the stitches on the front and back sides should be laid evenly, at the same distance from each other, and have an even thread tension.

Types of manual connections

For temporary connection of parts and marks during fitting, a running, cushioning and transfer seam is used. The so-called snares are used to transfer contour lines from one symmetrical part of the product to another.

The edges of the material are treated with a round seam. It is convenient to use it for preparing frills, flounces and other details. A manual seam-line, reminiscent of a machine-made one, is called a stitch. It is used for permanent fastening of clothing parts.

The marking seam is performed, as well as the stitching, but not with the same density. The distance between adjacent stitches is made equal to half their length. To prevent "shedding" of the edges of the fabric, they are treated with an overcast seam. It can be oblique, cruciform or looped according to the execution technique.

The hemming seam is used to process tucked edges. According to the technique of execution, it can be simple (open), hidden or curly.

Stitch connections

Before the invention of the sewing machine, hand-stitching was used to attach pieces of clothing. The difference between the basting connection and the stitching connection is that the needle does not move forward constantly, but returns back with each new injection.

In this case, the stitches are not formed alternately, then on the front, then on the wrong surface, but intersect. This achieves increased strength and elasticity of the connection.

On the front side, the stitches are short, at the same distance from each other. At the same time, on the inside they are three times longer, go behind each other, do not have gaps and form a continuous line.

The so-called machine hand seam, or "line", is particularly durable. With high-quality performance, there is doubt that it is made by hand. The stitches on the front of the same size without gaps, on the inside they go behind each other and are twice as long.

Technique for making butt joints

These seams are also called "back needle". And this is justified, because with each exit to the front part, she takes a step back. The distance can be half the purl stitch or one third of it. Depending on the purpose of the connection, the gap can be from 1 to 7 mm.

The seam is made from right to left. The needle is inserted from top to bottom, held under the fabric and brought to the front part with the formation of a stitch of the required length from the inside. Then she takes a step back. The injection is made again in the first hole, after which the cycle is repeated both from the inside and on the front. In this case, a manual seam "line" is formed.

If, after the thread is brought out to the front part, the second injection is made not into the first hole, but in the middle between the entrance and exit of the needle, then such a manual stitch is called “by the needle”. It does not form a solid line of stitches on the front, is not as strong as the "stitch", but is faster.

Finishing seams

In some cases, when mounting parts of clothing or fixing its individual parts on the surface, a pattern is formed that is pleasing to the eye. Such a connection is called finishing.

For hemming knitwear and sewing thick, non-flowing fabrics, a hand-made decorative seam "goat" is used, forming a simple cross-shaped pattern.

The “nun” connection trims the edges of the pockets, cuts and folds. Such fasteners are made in the form of looped stitches in the form of branches and chains, which are characteristic of the herringbone connection. They are used for hemming the edges of the material.

These types of finishes can also be used to fasten clothing parts, and used separately, only to give the finished product a decorative distinctive feature.

Embroidery

Mass factory production of clothing pushed hand sewing into the background. Only true connoisseurs of original clothes or artistic embroidery are seriously engaged in this craft. Sometimes the imagination of such tailors is amazing when simply unique things appear with decorative sewing on lapels, vents, loops and pockets.

The monastic sister and hand-stitching when finishing the robes of the clergy is an obligatory practice. Special care and accuracy is required in the preparation of the episcopal vestments. Handmade embroidered icons are a unique technique that requires both perseverance, special skills, and purity of thoughts.

A special place is occupied by gold and silk embroidery, as well as carpet and volumetric techniques. Works of amazing beauty, trimmed with sequins, mirrors, beads and gold. Cross-stitch has been known since antiquity; handicraft paintings, decor items, and clothes were decorated with it.

A hand satin stitch is a series of flat stitches on fabric. In the process of work, they completely fill the contour of the applied decorative pattern. In this technique, seams of various designs are used: “Vladimir”, “stem”, “knot”, “narrow satin roll”, “attached loop” and others. There are several types of smooth surface: artistic color, white, satin, Chinese, Japanese, Russian Alexander and Mstera.

It is used to connect parts of fur skins and for their minor repairs. For sewing, needles and threads are used in accordance with the thickness of the skin layer. The thicker and longer the fur, the larger the diameter of the thread and the size of the needle. To connect thin-mesh skins, the stitch frequency should increase.

The seam is made from right to left. A knot is not made at the end of the thread; it is fastened with several stitches in one place. Before starting work, the pile must be laid in such a way that it does not interfere with sewing. For this, the skins are folded with fur inside. Separate hairs are filled with a needle on the front side.

A manual furrier stitch is performed by moving the needle away from you. Two skins are pierced at once, the thread is pulled, thrown over the edge and again introduced into the same hole. After tightening the thread tightly, the loop is tightened. The needle is thrown again over the edge, and the process is repeated with the second hole.

Mastery Secrets

A manual seam begins by pulling the thread needle into the eye. So that it is obedient in work, does not get confused and does not twist, it should be cut off from the coil after threading.

Biting off the thread ruins the teeth and looks completely unprofessional. It is better to make a neat cut with sharp scissors not across it, but at an angle, then it will be easier to get into the ear.

It is better not to knit the knot at the end of the thread, but to fasten it with a few reverse stitches. An experienced craftswoman knows that any seal on the fabric when ironing can be imprinted on the surface or will be translucent.

Sewing with a long thread (more than 70 cm) is inconvenient. In the old days, craftswomen practicing this method were spoken of as lazy girls who did not want to make an extra move.