Tiered skirt. Pattern of a three-tier skirt to the knee. Do-it-yourself multi-tiered skirt How to sew a long summer skirt in tiers

How to sew a skirt in tiers without a pattern

Is it possible to sew clothes without patterns? Certainly!
There are some cuts for simple and very interesting clothes that any beginner seamstress can easily master. In this cut, there is no construction of an individual pattern, and you can cut it directly on the fabric.

In this issue, I will tell you about one of these products - a tiered skirt. Sometimes it is also called a gypsy skirt (although it is rather her relative).

We will make the skirt with an elastic band, which is especially convenient for those whose figure volumes can change rapidly in one direction or another (especially since holidays and all inclusive :-)) are coming soon.
And also it is convenient for those who still do not know how to beautifully handle zippers. And in general, the skirt with an elastic band is very comfortable.
And how the kids love them! The length of this skirt can be any, the number of tiers too.
It is better to choose a fabric that is not very dense, without volume. Dress and blouse fabrics of their cotton, silk, chiffon, thin crepe are very well suited. Bulky, dense fabrics are not suitable for this skirt, because. they begin to stick out strongly and you get the image of a nesting doll.

So, if we consider the details that make up this skirt, they look like rectangles, or rather stripes. Calculating the length and width of the strips is easy.

First, decide how long your skirt will be and how many tiers you want to see in it.
If you want a long version of the skirt in tiers, for example 90 cm and the number of tiers is 6, then 90: 6 = 15 cm will be the width of each tier. Don't forget to allow for seam allowances to join the pieces.

On them you will need to add 1-1.5 cm on each side, i.e. 15 + 2 = 17 cm will be the width of the band. For the upper tier, you will also need an increase for a drawstring into which an elastic band is threaded.

It is better to use a wide elastic band, it looks better. So add the width of the elastic band (3-4 cm) to the upper tier.

The length of the strip is even easier to calculate. For the uppermost (first) tier, take the Girth of the Hips (OH) with an increase in freedom of 2-4 cm. If your OB \u003d 100 cm, then the length of the strip for the upper tier should be 104 cm. For the second length of the upper tier, multiply by 1.5 . Those. second tier 104 * 1.5 = 156 cm. For the third tier, we also multiply the length of the second by 1.5. 156 * 1.5 = 234 cm. Etc. across all levels... If you need a smaller volume of the skirt, then when determining the length of the stripes, multiply by 1.4.

So, we determined the length of the strips. Sometimes the length of the strip for the lower tier reaches several meters. In our example, the length of the lower 6th tier will be almost 12 meters! Indeed, a gypsy skirt! I repeat once again that if you have not planned such a volume, then simply reduce the multiplication factor. But this volume looks simply luxurious!


Further, it is not difficult to calculate the consumption of fabric. Add up the lengths of all the stripes (if you are sewing from the same type of fabric) and find out what length is needed for all of them. The width of the fabric is 140-150 cm. This means that we will divide the resulting value by 150 cm. So we will get the number of stripes for layout on the fabric. Then multiply this value by the width of the strip with seam allowances (17cm) and find out how much fabric we need for the skirt!

Next, we perform cutting, measure the strips of the desired length for each tier and begin to sew. The top cut of each strip must be gathered to the length of the previous tier. Then we sew the strips one by one, tier by tier. In the upper (first) tier, we will make a drawstring for an elastic band. Elastic band length \u003d Waist girth - 10%.

We insert the elastic into the drawstring with a pin, process the bottom of the skirt and here it is - a beauty! We put on and go "walk"!

If the fabric you chose for the skirt is transparent, the skirt needs to be lined. How to sew a skirt in tiers on a lining, watch a detailed video. You'll like it!

Is it possible to sew clothes without patterns? Certainly!

There are some cuts for simple and very interesting clothes that any beginner seamstress can easily master. In this cut, there is no construction of an individual pattern, and you can cut it directly on the fabric.

In this article we will tell you about one of these products - a tiered skirt. Sometimes it is also called a gypsy skirt (although it is rather her relative).

The skirt is made with an elastic band, which is especially convenient for those whose figure volumes can change rapidly in one direction or another. And also it is convenient for those who still do not know how to beautifully handle zippers. And in general, the skirt with an elastic band is very comfortable.

The length of this skirt can be any, the number of tiers too.

It is better to choose a fabric that is not very dense, without volume. Dress and blouse fabrics made of cotton, silk, chiffon, thin crepe are very suitable. Bulky, dense fabrics are not suitable for this skirt, because. they begin to stick out strongly and you get the image of a nesting doll.

So, if we consider the details that make up this skirt, they look like rectangles, or rather stripes. Calculating the length and width of the strips is easy.

First, decide how long your skirt will be and how many tiers you want to see in it. If you want a long version of the skirt in tiers, for example, 90 cm and the number of tiers is 6, then 90: 6 = 15 cm will be the width of each tier. Don't forget to allow for seam allowances to join the pieces.

On them you will need to add 1-1.5 cm on each side, i.e. 15 + 2 = 17 cm will be the width of the band. For the upper tier, you will also need an increase for a drawstring into which an elastic band is threaded.

It is better to use a wide elastic band, it looks better. So add the width of the elastic band (3-4 cm) to the upper tier.

The length of the strip is even easier to calculate. For the uppermost (first) tier, take the Girth of the Hips (OH) with an increase in freedom of 2-4 cm. If your OB \u003d 100 cm, then the length of the strip for the upper tier should be 104 cm. For the second length of the upper tier, multiply by 1.5 . Those. the second tier is 104 * 1.5 = 156 cm. For the third tier, we also multiply the length of the second by 1.5: 156 * 1.5 = 234 cm. Etc. across all tiers. If you need a smaller volume of the skirt, then when determining the length of the stripes, multiply by 1.4.

So, we determined the length of the strips. Sometimes the length of the strip for the lower tier reaches several meters. In our example, the length of the lower 6th tier will be almost 12 meters! Indeed, a gypsy skirt! We repeat once again that if you do not intend such a volume, then simply reduce the multiplication factor. But this volume looks simply luxurious!

Further, it is not difficult to calculate the consumption of fabric. Add up the lengths of all the stripes (if you are sewing from the same type of fabric) and find out what length is needed for all of them. The width of the fabric is 140-150 cm. This means that we will divide the resulting value by 150 cm. So we will get the number of stripes for layout on the fabric. Then multiply this value by the width of the strip with seam allowances (17cm) and find out how much fabric we need for the skirt!

Next, we perform cutting, measure the strips of the desired length for each tier and begin to sew. The top cut of each strip must be gathered to the length of the previous tier. Then we sew the strips one by one, tier by tier. In the upper (first) tier, we will make a drawstring for an elastic band. Elastic band length \u003d Waist girth - 10%.

We insert the elastic into the drawstring with a pin, process the bottom of the skirt and here it is - a beauty! We put on and go "walk"!

If the fabric you chose for the skirt is transparent, the skirt needs to be lined.

How to sew a skirt in tiers: watch video tutorials

Tiered skirts have always been and remain fashionable, stylish wardrobe items. In the summer, this practical and light clothing is one of the favorites among many women. In addition, this beautiful skirt can be safely worn anywhere: to the beach, a walk, a party or when going to the store. If you don’t have such a thing in your wardrobe yet, then we will tell you how to sew a tiered skirt. Moreover, modeling and tailoring are quite simple.

Some information about the multi-tiered model

First of all, this garment has a number of advantages:

  • The skirt is incredibly practical.
  • It is very comfortable to wear.
  • Lightweight and airy style.
  • Has a great look.
  • Does not restrict movement.
  • Visually increases growth.

Do-it-yourself tiered skirt may vary in:

  • The number of tiers. You yourself choose the required number of rows to your taste.
  • their width and height. Tiers can have the same height or differ from each other.
  • Assembly volume. Lush and less dense frills at the skirt.
  • The fabric used. Also choose to your taste, it can be satin, chiffon, linen, guipure, tulle. For a larger volume, it is optimal to use stiffer fabrics, such as taffeta or nylon.

Important! Before sewing, consider the style of the product. For women with a slender figure, there are no restrictions on the cut of clothing, and ladies with more magnificent forms should avoid overly voluminous and lush assemblies.

We sew a tiered skirt

How to sew a tiered skirt to the floor? To do this, you do not need special skills and sewing education, since the pattern is a rectangle of fabric, different in width and length.

Here are some helpful tips to help make the creation process easier:

  • Assembly is best done from the bottom rows to the top.
  • Each strip of fabric is ground into a ring.
  • Mark the middle of all the details with a contrasting thread. This will help in the future to evenly distribute the folds relative to the mark, as well as connect the centers of the upper and lower tiers.
  • A quality assembly can be obtained by making two parallel stitches along the edge of the tier, and then pulling the fabric together with two threads.
  • Rows of lightweight fabric can be overlapped. As a result, you will get a small decorative ruffle along the seam. The main thing is to process the edges before that, which can be supplemented with original braid or delicate lace.
  • Tiers of dense material are fixed with a stitched seam. The top edge with frills of one row is connected to the bottom of the next. The material is placed facing each other. Baste the details and sew from the wrong side on a sewing machine.

Moderate width model

Consider how to sew a tiered skirt in stages. The length of our product will be 75 cm, and the number of rows will be three. In this case, the style will not be too lush.

Calculation of material and patterns

First, calculate the width of each row. In our model, the tiers differ in width by 4 centimeters from each other. Let's do the calculation:

  1. From the length of the product we subtract the difference multiplied by the number of tiers: 75 - (4 cm * 3 rows). The result is 63 cm, which we again divide by the number of rows at the skirt - 3.
  2. The resulting figure is 21 centimeters and is the width of the first level.
  3. We add 4 cm to it. We get 25 centimeters - this is the width of the second row.
  4. Again we add 4 cm, and we get 29 centimeters - this is the width of the third tier.

The next step is to calculate the length of each level.

Important! To do this, we need an additional value - the gathering factor, which is in the range from 1.1 to 3. That is, 1.1 is weak and barely noticeable folds, and 3 is a thick and fluffy gathering on the skirt.

Since the style of our product assumes an average width, we will take the assembly factor equal to two.

We make a calculation:

  1. The uppermost level is equal to the girth of the hips with an addition to this figure of 5-7 cm. Let's say the girth is 90, as a result, the length of the first row will be equal to 97 centimeters.
  2. The second tier is equal to the product of the length of the first tier and the assembly factor, i.e. 97*2=194 cm.
  3. We calculate the third tier in the same way: 194 * 2 = 388 centimeters.

Sewing

After calculations, a do-it-yourself tiered skirt is sewn according to the following pattern:

  • Cut out rectangles of the desired size.

Important! When cutting the details of the product, add 1 cm for allowances.

  • We sew them into rings.
  • We form folds.
  • We connect the tiers with each other.
  • Insert a rubber band at the top.
  • We process the hem of the skirt.

Model with thick and lush frills

Now let's look at how to sew a tiered skirt to the floor in a wider style. For this example, we take as a basis the length of the product equal to 96 cm, and let there be 4 tiers.

Calculation of material and patterns

We start the calculations with the width of each level. For this model, let the difference in the width of the tier be 2 cm. We calculate:

  1. We determine the width of the top row, for which we subtract the difference of each tier from the length of the product: 96 cm - (2 + 2 * 2 cm + 3 * 2 cm) = 84 centimeters. And divide the result by the number of rows - 4.
  2. The resulting value is 21, and is the width of the first tier.
  3. The second row is 2 centimeters larger than the previous one: 21 + 2 = 23 cm.
  4. We calculate the third by analogy and get 25 cm.
  5. The fourth, respectively, is 27 centimeters.

The next step is calculating the length of each level. To do this, we again need the assembly factor, which will be equal to 1.7. We make calculations:

  1. The length of the first row is equal to the circumference of the hips with an increase of 7 cm. That is, again, 97 cm.
  2. Second level: 97 * 1.7 = 165 cm.
  3. Third row: 165 * 1.7 = 280 cm.
  4. And the last: 280 * 1.7 = 476 cm.

After that, the skirt is made similarly to the previous model.

According to this sewing technique, you are already able to figure out on your own how to sew a multi-tiered skirt for a girl. The main thing is to determine the number of levels, the length and width of the product.

Product model with separate rows

The peculiarity of this product is that the tiers are not connected to each other, but are attached to the base. The base is most often a pattern of a straight or conical skirt.

Important! Tiers must be connected in such a way that the lower edge of one level overlaps the upper edge of the next, then the seams will not be visible.

A do-it-yourself tiered skirt from three separate levels is sewn as follows:

  1. Cut out and sew the base of the skirt under the frills.
  2. On it, mark the placement of the tiers, thereby you have determined the width of each row. Draw a line and label each level with letters A, B, C.
  3. Step back 4 cm from lines A and B and draw dotted lines - these will be the places where the tiers are attached.
  4. The length of each of the rows is determined in the same way as above.

Lush chiffon model

Separately, we will tell you how to sew a multi-tiered skirt to the floor from a material such as crinkled chiffon. The advantages of this fabric are:

  • Lightness and airiness.
  • You don't need to iron your skirt.
  • The shrinkage of the fabric goes in the vertical direction, which makes the figure slimmer.

Pattern Calculation

The model will have 4 levels, and is designed for a hip circumference of 100 cm.

The width of the top row will be 18 cm, and the next three rows will be 27 cm each.

The length of the levels will be as follows:

  1. The first and topmost - 150 cm.
  2. The second is 150 cm.
  3. Third - 300 cm.
  4. Fourth - 600 cm.

Greetings to all lovers of sewing! I am sure that you all know perfectly well what a tiered skirt is. I think this is a must have for almost every woman. Today I will tell you how can sew a tiered skirt with your own hands. Since such a skirt appeared in my wardrobe, I wear it with great pleasure at any opportunity. Of course, you can have several skirts of this model, for example, in different colors. But the fact that it is incredibly convenient and practical, do not even doubt it. You can go to the beach in it when you are relaxing on the coast. In the evening, it is perfect for a walk and nice gatherings in a summer restaurant. The tiered skirt looks very feminine. It does not hinder movement at all, it is very light and airy, besides, floor-length skirts always add height to us.

Let me tell you a story that happened to me. One summer, during my vacation on the coast, I came across a small market where Moldovans traded. And you know very well that Moldovan women wear long skirts (and not just one at the same time). And when I wandered between the rows and stopped near one pavilion, a Moldavian woman said that she really liked my skirt. I did not expect this at all, and instead of talking about her product, we talked about skirts))). This once again confirms that women can always find a reason to communicate. I will not hide that I was very pleased.

Therefore, I decided to tell you about how you yourself can sew such a wonderful skirt for yourself next summer, which will be a lifesaver for you in almost any situation.

For a tiered skirt, the choice of fabric is very important. I sewed a skirt from crinkled chiffon. Let me tell you about the benefits of this choice.

Firstly: this chiffon is by no means can't be ironed!!! Otherwise, it will not return to its previous state. This saves me from worries about ironing, which is very convenient, for example, on a long journey. Your skirt will always look perfect))).

Secondly: the tightness of chiffon is directed vertically, so the skirt does not make you fat at all, but on the contrary, it will make you slimmer. And thirdly: the palette of colors that is present in this chiffon allows me to wear a skirt with a large number of T-shirts, blouses and T-shirts from my wardrobe.

MATERIALS FOR WORK

Crinkled chiffon 150 cm wide and 207 cm long

Threads of the right color

Thin elastic band that can be wound on a bobbin

By the way, elastic bands also come in different colors, choose the color that suits you best. Fabric consumption is calculated for the hips no more than 100 cm.


The skirt will consist of four tiers. We need to cut the chiffon into 7 parts along the weft (perpendicular to the equity line). Six pieces will be 27 cm long and one piece will be 18 cm. The shortest part (18 cm) is the top part of the skirt. We make four blanks. We grind the first part 18 cm by 150 cm along the edge (first tier). We also grind the second part 27 cm by 150 cm along the edge (second tier). The third part will consist of two parts measuring 27 cm by 150 cm, which must be stitched together (third tier). And the fourth part consists of three parts measuring 27 cm by 150 cm, we also grind them together in height (fourth tier).

So we have 4 parts. Dimensions of each tier in a circle:

  • first tier - 18 cm by 150 cm
  • second tier - 27 cm by 150 cm
  • third tier - 27 cm by 300 cm
  • fourth tier - 27 cm by 600 cm

All seams can be sewn immediately with an overlock. The net length will turn out a little less, since about a centimeter will go into the seams. Then it is necessary to process each tier in a circle on an overlock, the width of which you can choose yourself, making it medium or small.

After that, you need to finally prepare the upper tier. You wind a thin elastic band on the bobbin, and put a regular thread on top of the machine. The main thing is to choose the right tension of the elastic band and thread, so that the line is pulled together evenly due to the elastic band below. Start stitching at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from one edge processed with an overlock. Start the line from the stitching seam of the tier, leaving tails, which then will need to be tied into knots so that the elastic does not bloom. Leave small ponytails in knots, do not cut under the spine. Further, along the entire height of the tier, such lines should be made at a distance of 1 cm from each other. When 2.5 cm remains to the bottom of the first tier, you can stop.

Now we have all the parts ready and we can safely assemble them together. There are several options for stitching pieces in tiered skirts. This one I decided to do with the imposition of tiers on top of each other. At the same time, a small frill is formed on top of each tier. I have it about 1 cm. You can make it a little more, according to your desire.

Now we make a kind of "matryoshka", putting each upper tier into the lower one. We make an overlay about 2 - 3 x cm. Here's how it looks in the light. That is, we adjust each lower tier to the upper one.

Do not be afraid that the lowest tier we have turned out to be 6 m. Due to the fact that the chiffon is wrinkled and very thin, this is not felt at all. I took the third and fourth tiers twice as long as the previous ones. Of course, you can make the length of the third and fourth tiers smaller, while you save a little on fabric. If your chiffon is very transparent and the skirt is translucent, then you will also have to make a petticoat, which is sewn into the seam between the first and second tiers. It can be made long, but in order not to make the skirt heavier, I think this should not be done. The upper tier, due to landing on an elastic band, should not glow strongly.


And again, wide multi-tiered skirts are in fashion. Colorful and plain, sewn and knitted, with and without a frill, long and short. In such it is very beautiful to spin in a dance and it is convenient to walk around the city on a summer day. Let's try to sew and knit a multi-tiered skirt with our own hands.

We sew a skirt from several tiers

What material to choose each decides individually. It can be lace guipure, linen or cotton, chintz and satin. The main thing is that you like it and feel comfortable in it.

For cutting a multi-tiered skirt, you do not need a sewing education. All its components are rectangular strips of fabric, different in length and width. How many will be components everyone decides for himself.

An approximate calculation would look like this:

  • yoke: its width is 12-18 cm, length - hip circumference + 6 cm (100 + 6 \u003d 106 cm);
  • component width = skirt length - yoke width: by the number of tiers (100 - 15 = 85: 5 = 17 cm);
  • the length of each "floor": the next one is 1.5 times larger than the previous one (100 x 1.5 \u003d 150 cm, 150 x 1.5 \u003d 225 cm, etc.).

The cut is made from a fabric with a width of 150 cm, our product will need about 2.5 m of fabric, we draw it on the wrong side. On each part, we leave an allowance for seams of 1.5-2 cm. From the top of the coquette we measure the distance for the elastic band and the bend (3 cm + 2 cm = 5 cm). We should get 2 parts of the coquette, 2 hours - 1 tier, 2 hours - 2, 3 hours - 3, 3 hours - 4 and 5 row 4 hours.

We sew the layers and the yoke from the wrong side on the typewriter on the sides. You can make a basting with your hands so that the details do not fall apart. It is desirable to process all sections on an overlock or stitch in a zigzag. In the upper part of the yoke we make a hem, sew it on, most importantly, do not forget to leave a hole for threading the elastic. Next, we proceed to picking up our skirt.

After stitching the individual parts, we get 5 solid parts (circles). The seams are carefully smoothed and ironed. Now the upper edges of the tiers are gathered on a thread (sewn with a free stitch and slightly pulled together) so that they can be swept together. The folds are evenly distributed along the entire length of the row. Now the parts are connected to each other.

A tiered skirt can be sewn in several ways. A product made of light matter is stitched with an overlap, such a seam will perform the function of an additional decor, you just need to pre-treat the edges.

Dense fabrics are joined with a stitched seam. The gathered top of one layer is connected to the bottom of the other, while the fabric is folded face to face. It is necessary to scribble from the wrong side, but it is better to sweep everything first.

Now smooth out the seams. It's time to put the elastic up. After that, you can iron the entire product and put it on. We got a multi-tiered skirt to the floor. Simple and beautiful, right? most importantly, it is comfortable and sewn with your own hands.

Tiered knitted skirt

In addition to fabric, for the manufacture of multi-tiered skirts, you can also use knitting threads made from natural cotton. The product will turn out very elegant and light, just right for a hot summer day. To knit it, you need to be able to crochet and know the basics of knitting (how loops are typed and what they are).

This skirt will be short. First, we knit the base. We start by picking up a chain of air loops. Its length will depend on the girth of the hips, plus 2-3 cm for the allowance. Having typed the required number of loops, we loop the chain and then we tie the first row with columns.

This is followed by the second, we will insert a belt into it, which we will then knit separately. To make it easier to insert, we knit with 3 crochets. We usually knit the third row. Starting from the fourth and to the very end, we knit with one crochet.

then this is sewing or braided braid, if glamour, then we sew on silk, openwork, linen lace. I sewed a chintz skirt both without finishing and decorated with sewing, my gauze skirt in the photo is decorated with braid in the color of the fabric.

In a tiered skirt, you can use companion fabrics, that is, fabrics of the same color, but different in texture. This model has a very wide range of applications. Dare!
It is very comfortable to walk at home in such a chintz skirt in the cold season. It does not wrinkle, does not stretch, goes well with a warm blouse and T-shirt. The long skirt hides warm underwear. Plus it's pretty and feminine!

Cut skirts on fabric

Our skirt does not need a pattern. We will do it right away cutting skirts on fabric. For this you need:

  1. Take a waist measurement and a hip measurement. These measurements do not need to be divided in half, as is usually done when cutting.
  2. Take your skirt length measurement.

3. Determine how many tiers you will do, the length of these tiers. Pay attention to the ratio of lengths so that there is no visual violation of proportion. If the skirt is three-tiered, then the uppermost tier should be shorter, otherwise the figure will look weighted. The lowermost tier is slightly longer than the previous one. The middle tier can be either the same with both the upper and the lower. It can also be slightly longer than the top, but not more than the bottom. If a two-tiered skirt, then either a short yoke and a wide long bottom, or a narrow long top with a thick frill at the bottom. A short skirt can be divided equally.

4. Make preliminary calculations, as shown in the figure below, that is, a cutting pattern on a sheet of paper.

5. Lay the fabric face down, align the cross section (do this using a large triangle), and sequentially mark the stripes according to the pattern, not forgetting to add 2-3 cm to the length of the fabrics for the seams, and observing the shared thread. If the fabric is silk and loose, then give allowances of at least 3 cm, since when the assembly is formed, the threads will crumble heavily and shorten the cut. If the width is not enough, then it is necessary to cut the canvases from two to three parts, while if the fabric is striped or checked, then the pattern must match. It is also necessary to add 1 cm for a seam allowance on each side of the cut.

Open skirts

Consider cutting on the example of my skirt. You make your own calculations on this example and also draw a diagram on a piece of paper. For a beginner, it is important to have a figurative idea of ​​​​what should turn out on the fabric.

Figure 1. If the figure is standard or with narrow hips, then everything is simpler here. The skirt can be sewn with a one-piece belt. To do this, simply add six centimeters in height to the upper canvas - the width of the allowance for processing the belt.

The assembly can be made thicker - up to a factor of 1.8 -2.0. An even larger assembly looks, in my opinion, not very beautiful. To determine your build factor on a skirt, you need to experiment. To do this, without cutting the fabric into strips, collect the edge of the fabric and apply it to yourself, sometimes less often, sometimes thicker. At the same time, see which assembly you like best.

The ratio of the entire strip of fabric with the assembly to the measurement in this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe body will be your coefficient for the assembly. For example, the circumference of the hips is 90 cm. With a coefficient of 1.5, the width of the canvas should be 135 cm (90 + 45). The size of the assembly depends on the thickness of the fabric, the thinner and softer the fabric, the better it drapes and the assembly looks more beautiful.


Consider Figure 2. For a figure with a large difference between the hips and the waist, the gathering at the waist with a one-piece belt will be huge, which looks terrible. To do this, the belt is cut out in a separate strip 7 centimeters wide and not much longer than the waist so that you can crawl into the ring. The assembly of the belt and skirt at the waist will be minimal. Where do we put the rest of the difference? We sew into darts. It is clear that the depth and number of tucks will be individual for everyone: the greater the difference between the waist and hips, the deeper the tucks and there are more of them.

It must be remembered that this is not a skirt in a “slip”, that is, not a classic straight line, there must be at least a minimal assembly at the top, otherwise you need to make a clasp at the waist.

For example, the hip circumference is 132, the waist circumference is 104 centimeters.

The length of the belt will be 114 cm = 104 + 10%.

Width of the first canvas: 132 + 10% = 146 cm.

The difference between the measurements is 28 cm. This is a lot. We make 6 darts: 2 in front, 2 in the back and on the sides. If you have this difference less, you can make 4 tucks: two in the back and 2 on the sides.

The front darts are 2 cm wide, 5 cm long... The back tucks are 3 cm wide, 7 cm long, and the side tucks are 3.5-4 cm wide, 8-9 cm long... In total, it turns out 17- 19 centimeters goes to darts.

The remaining width of the canvas along the upper cut: 146 - 17-19 (ex.) \u003d 127-129 cm

The difference between the length of the belt and the remaining width of the fabric on top: 127-129 - 114 \u003d 13-15 cm. We will painlessly attach these centimeters of excess fabric * to the belt when stitching. In this way, we will avoid a large gathering at the waistline and make our skirt elegant.

The assembly coefficient on the fabric should be no more than 1.15, 1.2 in large sizes, otherwise the skirt will fill the figure, make it bulky. In the old days, all women were full, but they wore wide dresses, skirts, sundresses, gathered into an assembly at the neck, chest or waist. At the same time, they looked natural, feminine and beautiful. Modern women no longer want to look full, so we apply the amount of increase individually. When I myself was thinner, I made the assembly quite thick, now, as you can see in the photo, it is almost symbolic, and, nevertheless, the skirt takes on volume.

How to sew a skirt in the assembly

Sewing sequence:

  1. Open your skirts.
  2. Stitching the seams of each fabric into a circle. Slicing cuts.
  3. Connect the belt into a circle, leaving a hole on the wrong side for pulling up the elastic. At the beginning and at the end of the hole, put bartacks.
  4. Sew along the top edge of each fabric with gathering stitches. The maximum stitch length is 4 mm. You can slightly loosen the tension of the upper thread.
  5. Divide all the details of the cut into 4 parts and mark with a pencil, chalk or notch, both above and below.

Connect the sectors with tailor's pins at the marked points in the sequence: to the bottom of the upper canvas, the upper cut of the lower canvas, connecting the front sides inward. Gather the top edge of each sheet between the marks so that the assembly is even. Tack. Do this in turn with each tier.

  1. The belt can be connected both at the beginning of work with the upper tier, and at the end. As you like.
  2. Try on. If there are bugs or something you don't like, fix it.
  3. Sew all parts of the skirt, belt and overcast seams. Turn the seam of the belt down and stitch 0.1 cm from the side of the skirt, if the gathering on the skirt is not very thick at the waist. - 4 cm. Then also fold the top of the skirt by 1 cm and another 2.5 cm towards the wrong side along the entire circumference, moving sequentially. Baste a hem seam with a closed cut, and then topstitch with a 0.1 cm seam, leaving a hole for the elastic and placing bartacks at the beginning and end of the line.

9. Stitch the bottom of the skirt with a seam in the hem with a closed cut with a width of your choice. You can sew sewing on the bottom of the skirt and overcast the seam. Bend this seam up and secure with a 0.1 cm stitch.


10. If you decide to process with lace, then you need to adjust it to the processed bottom of the product. To do this, overcast the bottom cut on the overlock. If there is no overlock, then you need to overcast with a zigzag line. And if you sew on a typewriter of the 2nd class, then you need to hem the bottom with a non-wide seam into a hem with a closed cut - 0.5-0.7 cm ...

Sew lace on the finished cut.


10. Iron the product.

11. Insert an elastic band and, putting its ends on top of each other, fasten with a line.

12. The skirt is ready!


In this tutorial, I used zigzag stitching, as this is the most popular option. Who has an overlock, of course, you process everything on an overlock.


I sewed many skirts of this style for myself, modifying them somewhat, and I was always not only satisfied with myself, but also received compliments from others.

Wear to health! Show off, enjoy your new job. And please the people around you with your appearance!

To fit - to slightly pick up one canvas relative to the other when joining (basting or stitching).

I look forward to your comments and questions. If the article was useful, share it with your friends, like it, subscribe to the news and receive the book as a gift "Sewing Machine for Home Use".

With love, Olga Zlobina

Publication date: 15.02.2017

A tiered skirt is a surprisingly versatile product. It is believed that such models are very full. This is not entirely true. Of course, meters of lushly gathered fabric can successfully wrap a thin, flat figure, visually adding the necessary volume, but overweight women should not give up tiered skirts for fear of getting a "woman in the teapot." By “playing” with the overall length, number of tiers, build factor, fabric chosen, you can create a variety of silhouettes. Therefore, we argue that such a skirt will look advantageous on any type of figure: even on “pears”, even on “rectangles”, it is only important to choose the right lines.

Skirt in tiers - the basic principle of construction

A tiered skirt is a slightly more complicated version of the simplest model - "Tatyanka", a skirt with one seam and gathered at the waist. Since there is no need to build an exact pattern, and the cut details are in the form of rectangles, sewing is really easy. And if you thoughtfully approach not only the calculations, but also the selection of fabric, then the skirt will turn out not only free and comfortable, but also unique and beautiful.

Often they do without construction at all, performing a cut directly on the fabric. The measure from the figure - the girth of the hips - is used only to determine the width of the first tier, the width of the remaining tiers is calculated based on the first. The height of the tiers depends on their number and the total length of the skirt.

  1. To the girth of the hips (OB) we add a small comfortable increase in free fit. The more OB, the greater the increase, on average from two to six centimeters. We got the width of the upper tier - L.
  2. We select the coefficient (K) of the assembly: from zero to “how much is needed”. A commonly used range is from 1.1 (barely noticeable piling) to 2.7-3 (very thick lush piling). At high coefficients, for example, 6, it will be difficult to sew the resulting assembly even on very thin fabric.
  3. The width of the next tier, L1, is calculated as follows: L1=L*K.
  4. To determine the width of each subsequent step, the width of the previous one is multiplied by the selected coefficient.

It's all! No more calculations need to be done. It remains to cut the fabric into strips and sew the product. The top of such a skirt is most conveniently assembled with an elastic band, although a rigid waist belt in combination with a zipper is also possible.

Skirt with tiers on the yoke

In order not to add extra volume to the hips, it is better to make the top of the skirt on a yoke. For this option, you still need minimal pattern-building skills. On your straight skirt base, mark the yoke line. This line must be chosen in the place that is most advantageous for your figure. There are no exact instructions on the width of the coquette, in each case it has its own: approximately from 5 to 25 centimeters. Cut off the yoke piece from the base and close the darts. Now it remains to calculate the tiers, taking the lower cut of the coquette as the waistline.

Fabric choice

The most popular fabrics for tiered skirts with a strongly flared silhouette are light, flowing, beautifully draped: chiffon, organza, sewing, cambric, thin chintz. It is these materials that allow you to get a "flying", and not a static image. But the tiered principle is also suitable for warm skirts made of heavier fabrics: dense suit, thin tweed, woolen. In this case, you should definitely reduce the flare factor, and wear the finished skirt with an adjacent top to avoid the impression of heaviness.

Tier height

The height of the tiers is selected depending on what visual effect you want to get. The following options look the most harmonious:

  • uniform tiers of the same height;
  • increasing the height of the tiers from top to bottom;
  • decreasing the height of the tiers from bottom to top.

In the last two cases, it is easy to create a very expressive gradient color transition, using a fabric with a slightly different shade or in the colors of the rainbow for each successive tier.

Tier width

It is not necessary to calculate the length of each tier with the same coefficient! If you choose a factor of 1.2 for the topmost one, and 2.5 for the bottommost one, the skirt will have a spectacular "sweep". The length along the hem can be 5 meters, and 15.

If the minimum convenient extension is made not only along the top, but also in the area of ​​​​the knees, you will get a silhouette that resembles a godet cut, but this technique looks good only on tall or tall slender figures.

The junction of the tiers - a horizontal seam - will emphasize the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe figure that falls. So, if you do not want to draw attention to wide hips, calculate the height of the rectangles so that the seam is slightly above or slightly below this place. And vice versa: with an overly thin figure, place it in a “strategically important” place.

A small number of high tiers also adds volume, but a skirt divided into many small “steps” looks lighter and, on the contrary, hides volume.

To visually highlight the tiers, insert contrasting piping or lace between them.

Anyone can sew a skirt! And for this it is not necessary to have some special and outstanding seamstress abilities. There are many options for tailoring things without patterns and complex fittings. The simplest and at the same time beautiful option is a tiered skirt.

The skirt can be of any length and is made with an elastic band. It is convenient, easy and fast. Moreover, without sewing skills, it will be difficult to cope with the processing of zippers or button fasteners. In addition, if suddenly the figure changes in plus or minus, the skirt can still be worn.

The number of tiers on the skirt can be varied at your discretion. Short fluffy tiered skirts look beautiful and youthful, and midi and maxi can be worn for study or work. And if you make a wide multi-colored ala gypsy skirt from light fabric, then it will perfectly save you from the summer heat.

The most important moment in tailoring is the choice of fabric. It is better to choose a light, flowing material. It can be cotton, chiffon, silk, dress and blouse fabrics of mixed composition. But it is better to leave voluminous and dense fabrics for sewing another thing, otherwise the skirt will turn out to be too lush and hardly decorate the figure.

Skirt pattern in tiers and calculation

The pattern of a tiered skirt is so simple that it’s hard to even call it a pattern. The details are long rectangles.

Tier width (height) and skirt length

Before calculating the width of the tiers, accurately determine their number and the total length of the product.

For example, you decide that the length of the skirt will be 96 cm, and there will be 4 tiers.

We divide 96 by 4, we get that one tier will be 24 cm. It is necessary to add seam allowances on both sides to the width of the tier. They are needed to connect parts and hem the bottom.

For one allowance, 1-1.5 centimeters are usually left. Then we get 24 + 3 = 27 centimeters. This is the width of the lower three stripes of the future skirt with tiers for the front and the same for the back, because the tiered skirt has side seams.


Drawstring for elastic

For the upper part, in addition to the seam allowance, an allowance for the drawstring is required, where the elastic will be inserted later. A wide elastic band looks better and will not "cut" the figure. This is approximately 1.5 cm. Two widths of elastic are needed for the drawstring. Thus, we get 27 + 3 = 30 cm.

Length of rectangular tiers

Now we can move on to calculating the length of the rectangles. We will start with the tier, which is located on the belt.

We measure the circumference of the hips (OB) and add 3-5 cm so that the top of the skirt does not sit tight. Let's assume that the volume of the hips is 90 cm. Then we get the length of the upper tier 90 + 5 = 95 cm.

We calculate the parameters of the remaining tiers. To do this, we multiply the calculated length of the previous one by 1.5 for a puffy skirt or by 1.4 for a less voluminous one.

We make a tight skirt, so we get:

  • for the second tier 95 * 1.4 = 133 cm,
  • for the third tier - 133 * 1.4 = 186.2 cm,
  • for the fourth tier - 186.2 * 1.4 \u003d 260.7 cm.

Open skirts with tiers

On average, the width of the fabric is 150 cm, so it is most convenient to break the tier into two parts.

For each resulting part, do not forget to add 3 cm on the sides for allowance.

Each part of the fourth and third tiers will take its own stripe on the fabric. And the second and third will fit in a whole rectangle.

We get 27 * 2 + 27 * 2 + 27 + 30 \u003d 165 cm. So, we need a piece of fabric 150 cm wide and 165 cm long. We mark the tiers on the fabric and cut it out.

We sew together first the parts of the tiers, then the tiers themselves. The top of each tier must be gathered to match the length of the previous tier.

On the lower tier, we perform a hem. On the upper tier we make a drawstring.

The length of the elastic band is determined by the formula: waist circumference - 10%. For the elastic, we leave a small unstitched area, insert the elastic through it with a pin, sew it up. If the fabric is too transparent, for example, chiffon, you need to make the lining a little shorter in volume and narrower than the skirt itself.

The skirt is ready! We put it on, look in the mirror, rejoice and go to show off! Knowing how to sew a skirt with tiers, how to calculate and cut it, you can sew it without a pattern for any figure, and for any length in finished form.

How to sew a skirt without a pattern video master class

Look at the master class on how to sew a skirt without a pattern at all, a tiered skirt, a beautiful summer one!

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the master class on sewing a beautiful and fashionable skirt. This model is very easy to make, and the summer skirt pattern is quite simple.

Necessary materials:

- 1.4 m - 2.75 m fashion fabric (depending on the width of the fabric);
- threads of the corresponding color;
- strong thick threads;
- sewing machine.

Measurements:
Waist - Measure around the narrowest part of your torso (just below your belly button).
Hips - measure around the largest part of the buttocks (about 20 cm below the waist line).
The length of the finished skirt - measure the vertical distance from the waist line to the desired edge of the product.

skirt pattern

Skirt patterns are a simple block pattern. You can apply them directly to the fabric. But for this you need to decide on the dimensions of the panels that need to be cut. This will also help you determine the amount of fabric needed.

Note: If you decide to sew a skirt from a fabric with a pattern, then choose a fabric in which the patterns are applied along the length of the fabric (the edge of the fabric goes along the top and bottom of the pattern or pattern). In this case, you do not need to sew the tiers of the skirt from parts of the fabric. Naturally, the skirt pattern will look a little different.

AB skirt pattern block

Measure your hips. Round your result to the nearest centimeter.

A \u003d (hip size + 5 cm) / 2
To get the height of each tier, you need to divide the desired length of the skirt by the number of tiers desired. Round your result to the nearest centimeter. The presented model from Victoria's Secret consists of three tiers, and its length is 53.5 cm.
H = (1/3 x desired skirt length) + 6.5 cm
Example. For size 42, the hips are 96.5 cm, the desired length of the skirt is 53.5 cm, the tiers are 19.5 cm long. That is, A \u003d 51 cm, and B \u003d 24 cm. We remind you that the results can be rounded (this is not a rocket drawing).

Drawing and cutting details of a pattern of a summer skirt


Determine the direction of the pattern on the fabric: from top to bottom or longitudinal.

Add the right amount of fabric to the width of the panel to create ruffles (fluffiness). Assemblies are usually done in a 2:1 ratio. If you have chosen a thin fabric, the ratio will probably be large.

For each tier, two parts should be cut - front and back.
Draw a strip 5 cm wide along or across the fabric (see skirt pattern).

Make an AB block as shown in the picture.

Top panel - 1 block each for the front and back.
Middle panel - 2 blocks each for the front and back.
Bottom panel - 3 blocks each for the front and back.

Note. If there is not enough fabric, try making a second tier in a contrasting color. If desired, you can decorate the skirt with ribbons or lace.


Now you have all the details of the pattern, and you can start sewing.

Sewing:
1. Sew a pair of 5cm strips along one short edge to make a drawstring. Fold along the long edge and iron. Open the fold and fold in 6mm of fabric on the raw edges. Close the fold. Sew with a front seam along the long folded edge, then along the long folded edge. Tie the ends of the lace into knots.

2. Fold the panels of each tier right sides and sew along the sides, leaving a seam allowance of 1.2 cm. Finish the ends of the fabric with an overlock or other method (for example, scalloped scissors) to prevent the fabric from fraying. Smooth out the seams. You should get three rings, one for each tier.

3. Make a narrow, double-folded border at the bottom edge of the bottom tier. To do this, make a fold 1.2 cm inside the tier, iron. Hide the raw edge inside so that it touches the ironed line. Iron. Sew the border.

4. To finish the top edge of the top tier, fold 3 cm of fabric into the tier and iron, leaving room for the elastic. Fold in the raw edge (6 mm) and sew around the circle of the tier, stepping back 2.5 cm from the top (bent) edge.

5. Lay the middle and bottom part of the skirt right sides out. Install a strong thread in the machine, turn on the zigzag stitch with a large step. On a piece of fabric for seam allowance, sew in a circle the top of each of the tiers.


6. Take the bottom tier and carefully pull out the ends of the zigzag stitch, forming folds in the fabric. When the perimeter of the assembled circle is equal to the circumference of the lower edge of the middle tier, tie the ends of the extended thread together. Spread the gathers evenly around the perimeter.

Note: Gathering can be done by manually sewing the fabric with a thick thread, it is not necessary to use a machine and strong threads for this.

7. Turn the middle tier inside out and connect the bottom edge of it with the top edge (with gathers) of the bottom tier, folding them right sides together. Pin, or better yet, overcast two tiers along the line just below the zigzag seam. Turn the middle tier right side out and adjust the bottom tier gathers if necessary. Sew on a typewriter along the sour cream line. Remove the strong thread that was used to pull the fabric into gathers, as well as the thread that was used to sweep the two tiers.

8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 to gather at the top edge of the middle tier and attach it to the top tier.


9. Finish the collected seam allowances by overcasting or cutting with scalloped scissors.

10. On the outer edge, where the elastic will go, make a 2.5 cm hole with a seam spreader. Pass a string or elastic through the hole (optional).

Note: Using this summer skirt pattern, you can make the model shorter or longer than suggested by making the tiers shorter or longer.