Building a base pattern is the most understandable way (for beginners). - women's conversations. Building a base pattern. the most understandable way. plus the basics of modeling and some tricks...

18.08.2019

At a certain period of time in the life of almost every person, more often a woman, of course, there comes a moment when she does not want to buy things in a store, and it can be expensive to turn to professional seamstresses.

Therefore, there is a very reliable option: the independent implementation of a base pattern, which will allow you to easily sew things that are perfect in shape in the future.

What do you need to create a base pattern?

First of all, it is necessary to take basic measurements, on the basis of which the pattern will be built.

To most accurately take basic measurements, you must follow some simple rules:

It is necessary to take measurements with an even posture.
Taking measurements and trying on must be done in the same bra.
When taking measurements, you need to be natural: do not slouch, do not pull in your stomach, otherwise the indicators will not be the most optimistic and the sewn thing will most likely disappoint.

Now you can directly begin to create a base pattern.

For novice craftswomen who find it difficult to come up with their own clothing model, you can choose the dress or skirt model you like, take your measurements and transfer them to paper to complete the pattern.

It is better to transfer the sketch of the selected outfit onto graph paper. This choice will only make it easier to create a pattern, since there are clear divisions on such paper.

To complete a simple model, the most difficult thing is to transfer the pattern to the fabric; even novice craftsmen cannot have problems with other stages.

What should be taken into account?

The execution of allowances on different textures of fabrics is performed in different ways. The thicker the fabric, the smaller the allowance.
Drawing all lines must be done only from the wrong side.
The transfer of lines from the pattern to the fabric is carried out with a special pencil for tailors. Otherwise, you can use soap.

Building a base pattern

The base of the pattern consists of two parts, which are called shelves. There are back shelves and front shelves. Each shelf consists of three more elements - these are two grooves and an armhole.

It is important to remember that the undercuts on the front shelf are always made larger than on the back shelf.

As for the armhole, it should be smaller on the back shelf.

The construction of the base pattern is performed on a rectangular piece of paper. You need to put your own measurements on it.

It's important to know:

The length of the product is the length from the cervical vertebra to the level where the bottom of the dress will be.
The width of the base pattern is the half-girth of the chest (+5 cm).

To complete the pattern you will need:

Centimeter
Tracing paper
Scissors
Textile
Pins
Ruler
Pencil

If the pattern is not made according to the sketch from the magazine, then the novice craftswoman needs to do the following:

Take measurements. The measurements are taken in such a way that the centimeter tape does not stretch or sag, otherwise the final product will be greatly distorted.

The following measures need to be taken:

Breast volume
Hips
Waist
Back length to waist
shoulder length
Sleeve length (if any)
Finished product length

How to take measurements correctly so that the base pattern is the most accurate?

All measurements should be taken in such a way that the centimeter tape does not compress anything, but also does not sag. You need to measure in a natural state, then the result will be the best.

For a more accurate construction of the base pattern, it is necessary, in addition to the main indicators, to remove additional ones. They include:

Back width. It is measured according to the formula 1/8 of the chest volume + 5 cm.
Chest width. Measured according to the formula 1/8 of the chest volume - 2 cm
Armhole width. Measured according to the formula ¼ chest volume - 4 cm
Armhole depth. It is measured according to the formula 1/10 of the chest volume + 10cm.

With such indicators, you can literally build an ideal pattern, on the basis of which the sewn product will surely please its creator.

There are separate and detailed articles on how to make the basis of a pattern for a dress, sleeve, skirt, trousers, shorts and other clothes. An experienced tailor of the atelier offers to build a pattern using his own simplified method, specially adapted for beginners. However, for beginners who decide to sew a skirt or trousers (especially a dress) with their own hands, it is important to know not only how to correctly make a pattern and tailoring technology, but also a lot of “little things” that are insignificant at first glance.

In this article, an experienced tailor will share some tips with you. You'll learn what beginner tailors need to know before you start pattern-making and cutting and sewing your own clothes.
Please note that the VKontakte group has many useful tips for beginner tailors. Sign up for a group. We constantly post various brief tips and links to useful articles.

Prepare a sketch of the future dress model

Tailoring, especially women's dresses, is a creative activity that requires not only the ability to make a pattern and sew on a sewing machine, but also the taste and imagination of the designer. You will need to draw a sketch of the future model of the dress, imagine what finishing elements and details will be on it, choose the color and quality of the fabric, the silhouette of the dress. And finally, draw it all on a piece of paper. However, it is not necessary to be able to draw beautifully in order to sketch a dress. You can use ready-made design solutions, supplement them or change them a little.

Do you like indoor or garden flowers? In the nursery "Green Gate" you can buy rooted cuttings and cuttings of various domestic and perennial garden flowers. We constantly update the collection of anthuriums and hibiscus. Flowers and plants are sent by mail.

For beginner tailors, the pattern often comes first. They carefully and scrupulously make their measurements in the calculations when constructing the pattern, trying not to be mistaken by a millimeter. But, most often the first result becomes unsuccessful, simply for the reason that there is not enough experience. Therefore, do not immediately try to sew clothes from expensive fabrics, first learn the basics, gain personal experience. Even a teacher at a cutting and sewing course will not be able to give you the full amount of knowledge, not to mention articles on the Internet. You will have to learn many tricks and subtleties on your own, sometimes at the cost of your own mistakes.

Take, for example, such an element as the silhouette of a dress. Everyone knows that the silhouette is adjacent, semi-adjacent and free. For the same size, beginners need to make three different patterns. For an experienced tailor, when modeling a dress, one, but proven, basic pattern is enough, and he can make additions and changes to it in small pieces directly on the fabric.
On our site there is an author's material, specially adapted and intended for beginners, on how to make the basis of a straight dress, as well as make changes for a fitted and free silhouette in the basic pattern.

What tools are needed to make a pattern

1. Ruler cutter. This is a special, transparent and wide ruler with convenient markings in inches and centimeters. Inches are used when constructing a pattern taken from foreign magazines.
2. Paper tape. It is no accident that we placed it in second place. It will definitely come in handy when adjusting the pattern, gluing additional sections of paper, laying folds on the pattern, etc. It is not necessary to buy with such a device, it is enough to buy a regular masking tape in a roll, 3 cm wide.
3. This tool is used to transfer your pattern or pattern from a magazine to paper. The gear wheel pierces two layers of paper with needles, accurately transferring the contours of the top sheet to the bottom one. With the help of a copy roller, you can quickly and accurately make a pattern.
4. An ordinary simple pencil, preferably soft. There is a marking on the shank of the pencil. A hard pencil is designed for thick paper, such as whatman paper. For thin graph paper, it is better to use grades M, 2M, TM.
5. You will often have to erase inaccurate or minor pencil lines, so choose a comfortable and high-quality eraser.
6. Many people think that beautiful and comfortable tailor's tape measures are better than a regular centimeter tape. In fact, even professionals use only a centimeter in their work. Do not buy too long a centimeter, for example 2 meters. An ordinary centimeter, 150 cm long, is the most convenient size.
7. Tailor's scissors are considered the main tool of the tailor. They should be sharp and comfortable. Each seamstress in the set should have at least three types of scissors: large for fabric; medium - for small jobs and small - for cutting threads while sewing on a sewing machine. Do not use tailor's scissors to cut paper. In the office supply store, you can buy inexpensive regular stationery scissors.
Experienced dressmakers use a special cutter to cut the fabric. Don't rush to get it. For beginners, scissors are enough at first.
8. A rectangular ruler is simply an indispensable tool when building a pattern, especially if graph paper is not used. This rectangle will also come in handy when aligning the bottom of a skirt or dress during fitting.
9. This form of a ruler must be in your set. With it, you will make smooth lines of armholes, necklines, etc. on the pattern.
10. And finally, graph paper. With it, you can easily make a pattern with your own hands, and then transfer its parts from the general drawing to separate sheets of thicker paper. It is sold in sheets and rolls. It is most convenient to use paper in a roll, but at first you can try to make a pattern on sheets of A3, A2 paper glued together.

If you are building a pattern yourself, then you will practically not need the terms used by designers, well, except for the main ones: back, shelf, round, armhole, etc. Another thing is when you use ready-made patterns from magazines. You can often find a lot of unfamiliar words there. We have a detailed article on our website that gives a detailed description of most of the terms and details of the patterns.
See the name of the details of the cut, cuts, terms

However, you should not focus too much on studying them, especially since they are most often explained in the drawing and are intuitively understandable even to an unprepared person. But it is imperative to understand what the different symbols on the finished pattern mean.

1. The arrow with the inscription "DN" or "Local" means the direction of the fractional thread of the fabric, taking into account which you need to lay out the pattern on the fabric.
2. "Fold fold" means that this part of the pattern must be laid out when cutting along the fold of the fabric, for example, the back.
3. So that the details of the parts of the product do not move when sewing, it is advisable to break them into sections and put marks. When sewing, these marks must be combined and thus you will avoid strong displacement or stretching of the seams. On the pattern, put short dashes (for example, a waist line, a chest line), and mark these marks with chalk on the fabric.
In this way, folds and tucks are marked, and you can even indicate with an arrow their direction of laying.
4. If you have already had to sew clothes with your own hands, then you know that some parts of the clothes need to be “planted”, while others need to be stretched. For example, it is always advisable to cut out the sleeve collar a little more than the armhole, and to plant the upper part of the sleeve a little. On the other hand, the buttocks of the trousers (in some cases) need to be stretched on the contrary with a hot steam iron, etc.
You should pay attention to the marks on the pattern in the form of wavy lines or dotted lines with an asterisk. They indicate the area that needs to be planted or trimmed.
5. Professionals use patterns without allowances. But patterns for beginners are given with seam allowances. The contours of the finished pattern are indicated by a solid line, and the stitching line is dotted.

Unfortunately, in a short article it is impossible to give comprehensive information on how to make a pattern with your own hands, and even just a beginner to sew. To do this, you need to complete a 3-4 month course of study, at least. However, it is possible to give important directions for self-study. Part of the information can be found on our website, other websites, in books and video courses. Here is an example of how to take measurements.

Any pattern is built so that the fabric of the clothes does not tightly run around the figure, but has a little freedom. Therefore, when building, various allowances for freedom of fitting are used. Their value depends mainly on the size of the clothes and the features of your figure (completeness). Keep this in mind when building a pattern.
See fit allowances.

Do not blindly trust patterns from various magazines and online resources. You should always check them before cutting fabric. It is impossible to build a pattern that is perfect for any shape. Apparently, therefore, designers often give large allowances for freedom of fitting. And to check you need to learn how to make patterns with your own hands. Here is such a vicious circle.

When laying out the patterns on the fabric, the problem of shifting the details of the pattern often arises. You can use thin and sharp tailor's pins and pin the paper parts to the fabric. But, not necessarily. But you need to pin the paired parts of the fabric with pins. This will allow you to avoid their shifting when cutting.

Don't repeat these mistakes!

1. Do not walk when sewing. Do the work consistently and accurately, sweeping difficult areas by hand. After completing the sewing of some detail or a complex operation (grinding the side seam, etc.), it is necessary to perform wet heat treatment, carefully ironing or ironing the seams. See How to iron clothes properly.
Especially do not rush to complete the work. It is better to postpone hemming the bottom of a dress or skirt until the next day than to do it late at night.
2. Experienced seamstresses know that the most important step in tailoring is fitting. And the more they are made, the better the work will be done, the more accurately the clothes will sit on the figure. Be sure to do fittings when tailoring any clothes. Experts even have a special term for this first fitting and second fitting.
3. We have already said above that one should not trust patterns from magazines too much. They are made by experienced specialists, but even they cannot take into account all the deviations from the standard features of typical figures.
4. Do not think that making a pattern is something beyond your strength. In fact, everything is very simple. You just need to spend time and figure out a new business for you.
5. Don't be afraid to make a mistake, but save your money. First, make a skirt pattern from inexpensive fabric. Then you can try to sew and shorts, trousers. Well, then make a pattern and dresses, just sew it from an inexpensive, unpretentious fabric.
6. Not all fabrics, but many, require special wet-heat treatment before sewing. Fabrics containing cotton, wool, and sometimes synthetic fibers may shrink after washing. Consider this before cutting fabric.
7. Since the sewing machine becomes your main assistant, keep it in order. A faulty or unconfigured machine can ruin not only your mood, but also the thing for which you made a pattern with such difficulty and spent not only time, but also money.

Making a dress pattern is difficult not only for beginner tailors, but also for professionals. Even correctly taken measurements and accurate construction of the pattern, according to the proposed calculations, does not give any guarantee that the dress will fit perfectly on your figure. And the reason for this is not the designers who create calculation formulas for constructing a dress pattern, but the fact that almost no person has an ideal figure. Each of us has many different deviations of the figure from the norm: stoop, excessive fullness, large or small chest volume, mismatch of body proportions with height, etc. These features do not allow making an accurate and universal dress pattern for each, especially a fitted silhouette. Therefore, it is necessary to correct many lines of the drawing during the first and second fitting, and only after that it can be used as a basis for modeling.

Based on the personal experience of teaching cadets at the cutting and sewing courses, I was convinced that building a pattern for a dress with a sleeve is quite difficult for them, especially for beginners. In addition, theoretical materials from various sources are oversaturated with technical terms, are difficult to understand and, as a rule, also contain many outdated design elements.
Therefore, in this article I offer you absolutely free and as simple as possible building the basis of a straight dress pattern. A fairly simple drawing, and a step-by-step method of construction will allow you to visually and easily make a pattern with your own hands, if necessary, adjust it a little while trying on, and I hope to sew a dress with a sleeve with high quality.
In the future, you can use it for modeling, making the necessary changes directly on the fabric.

Please note that this pattern is suitable for figures 44 - 48 sizes. Building a dress pattern with your own hands is possible only if you wear dresses in sizes 44 - 48 and your figure does not have noticeable deviations from the norm. For large sizes, you do not need to try to build a pattern yourself, there will definitely be a lot of moments that will lead you to a dead end. First of all, this is due to the fact that for figures with a large bust, the length of the front will be noticeably longer than the length of the back (to the waist), which requires adjustment of many pattern lines. This can only be done by an experienced designer.

Measurements for building a pattern

The increments used to build this pattern. In the drawings, they are indicated by the letter (P). Next to it, the name of the corresponding measurement is indicated in capital letters.
Pg (increase to the measurement of the chest) - 4 cm.
Fri - 3cm.
Pb - 2 cm.
Pshs - 0.5 cm.
Pspr - 0.5 cm.
Pds - 0.5 cm.
Pdpt - 0.5 cm.
For more information on the size of the allowances for loose fit, depending on the size and silhouette of the clothes, see the article Loose allowances.

How much fabric is needed for a straight dress

The consumption of fabric for a straight dress is "one length" plus the length of the sleeve. If deep folds or additional finishing details, such as a turn-down collar, are provided, then the consumption increases.
You will also have to buy more fabric if the measure "Hips" exceeds 130 cm. For such a fabric figure, "two lengths" plus 10-15 cm are required.
When calculating fabric consumption, do not forget about allowances and hem hem.

To build a dress pattern, it is convenient to use graph paper. The paper grid allows you to quickly and accurately draw the main lines. You can use another type of paper (tracing paper, etc.), but in any case, you first need to make a quadrangle, one side of which will be approximately equal to the length of the dress, the other to the width of the two halves (back and shelves). Therefore, if you have small sheets of paper, immediately glue them together with tape.
See How to make a pattern and other tips for beginners.

And one moment. If you have already decided to build a dress pattern with your own hands, then be patient and read the entire article carefully. Then take your measurements and start building the pattern. Believe me, searching the Internet for a finished dress pattern will lead nowhere. Therefore, it is better to immediately spend your time and effort to figure out for yourself how to make a dress pattern correctly. For example, I had to spend three days preparing this article for you.

Start building the dress pattern by creating a grid containing lines for the bust, waist, hips, etc.

Mark the first point, which you must put in the upper left corner of the sheet of paper, with the letter A. From it, step back to the right, the measurement of the Semicircumference of the chest II + 4 cm.

Now let's draw a waist line W. To do this, from point A, lay down a segment equal to the measurement of the length of the back + 0.5 cm.

On the point (W), lay down 21 - 22 cm and mark with the letter H (hips).

The letter L denotes the line of the bottom of the dress. To do this, from the waist line (W) put down the measurement of the length of the skirt.

Now it remains to find the line of the chest B. To do this, add 0.5 cm to the measurement of the Height of the armhole at the back and postpone this segment from the upper line AA1.

Now draw a vertical line from point A1 down. Draw horizontal lines from points: A, B, W, H, L to the right. At the intersection of the lines, put points: A1, B1, W1, H1, L1.
The mesh is now ready to build the dress pattern in detail.

Determining the position of the armhole on a dress pattern

BB2 = Half of "Back Width" + 0.5 cm.
Now, from point B2, draw up a perpendicular and set point A2.

B1B3 = (Half Bust Width + 4cm) + (Half Bust II - Half Bust I).
From point B3, draw up a perpendicular and set point A3.

Pattern of the back half of the dress

AA4 = (1/2 neck measurements divided by 3) + 0.5 cm.
Divide segment AA4 by 3 and get the value AA5.

Please note that building a tuck on the back half of the dress is not necessary, especially if the dress will be made from stretch knit fabrics.

Now take a compass and set aside from point A4 an arc with the radius of the measure "Shoulder Length". Immediately after that, set the radius on the compass equal to the measure "Height of the shoulder from the back along the oblique line" + 0.5 and place its sharp leg at point W. Mark point A6 at the intersection of the two arcs.
From point A6, lay a perpendicular to the left. Place point A7 at the point of intersection with line A2B2.
Using the new point (A7), you can find point B5 using the formula: B2B5 = B2A7 divide by 3 and add 2 cm.

Do one more calculation. Divide B2B3 into two equal parts and put point B4 in the center.

I draw your attention to the fact that the construction of your dress pattern may not visually coincide with my pattern. This dress pattern is built for a standard figure that does not have deviations.

Pattern of the front half of the dress

First, determine the position of point A8 using the formula: B1A8 = "Length of the front to the waist" + 0.5 cm.

Set aside a section from point A8: A8A9 = AA4B and put point A9.
Next, lay down the segment A8A10 \u003d 9 - 10 cm from point A8.

B1B8 = 1/2 "Center of Bust" measurement (distance between the tops of both breasts) + 0.5 cm. Place point B8.

From point B8 draw a vertical line parallel to line A1L1.

Point A9 is needed in order to make an arc out of it with a compass on a new vertical line, the radius of the compass is equal to the measurement "Chest Height" (from the top of the chest to the neck). Set point B9.
From the new point B9 in the direction of the line AA1 (slightly to the left of the point A9) draw an arc with the radius of the "Chest Height" measurement (from the top of the chest to the neck).

Now we need to do a more complex calculation:
(2 x (Bust II - Bust I)) + 2 cm.
The result will be the radius of the arc drawn from point A9 in the direction of the previously made arc, and place point A11.

Reflect on the pattern the segment B3A12 = B2A7 (from the back) - 1 cm.
Now, using a compass, you need to make an arc from point B3 towards the line of the shoulder. The radius of the arc is equal to the segment B3A12.
At the same time, make an arc from point A11 to form a segment of the shoulder A11A13. The radius of the compass is equal to the measure "Shoulder length". Place point A13.

Segment B3A12 now needs to be divided by 3 and put point B10. From this new point (B10) draw a straight line to point A13. Next, draw a smooth line for the armhole, as shown in my drawing.

Set aside 1 cm from point W2 to the left and right.

Segment W2d = 12 - 13 cm.
Segment B9d1 = 4 - 5 cm.
Connect all the dots with straight lines on the front of the dress pattern.

Now let's make a tuck on the back half of the dress.
BB6=B6B2=BB2/2.
W3d2 = 15 - 16 cm.
B6B7 = 3 - 4 cm.

Put a point W3 and set aside 2 cm from not to the right and to the left.
Connect all the dots with straight lines on the back of the dress pattern.

HH2 = (Hip circumference / 2) + 1 cm.
from point H2, lay down the line and put point L2.

Now we need to do a little calculation:
X \u003d HH1 - (Hip circumference + 3).
Let's insert the result into the formula:
Y = X - (2 + 4); 2 - solution of the front tuck; 4 - rear tuck solution.
Now we need to divide Y by 2. We need this value to find the points W3 and W6 (W4W5 = W4W6).
Please note that the points "your" W5 and W6 may not correspond to my pattern, the main thing is that the segment W5W6 has the same value.

The dress pattern is nearing completion.
H1H3 = (Hip circumference + 2) - HH2.
From point H3 draw a straight line to the bottom of the dress and place point L3.
Connect the side seams of the dress with straight and smooth lines as shown.

Dart at the level of the shoulder seam is considered a classic way. But you should know that there are other options, some of them are shown in this illustration.

Please note that this dress pattern is made without allowances. Do not forget to add them when cutting the details of the dress on the fabric.

That's all, your dress pattern is ready. You can transfer the shelf and back to separate sheets of paper, now it is no longer necessary with millimetric markings. Do not forget to leave allowances of 1.5-2 cm for the time being and start cutting a dress from inexpensive fabric. After several fittings, you will correct your pattern and then transfer it to thick paper (cardboard) or oilcloth, film.

And most importantly, do not think that the more scrupulously you build a dress pattern, the more accurately it will convey the features of your figure. Remember that this pattern is only a sketch, which needs to be finalized individually during the first fitting and subsequent fittings, the number of which depends on the characteristics of your figure. Feel free to make the required changes, stick with tape or cut off some sections of the pattern until you achieve that the dress you have sewn will sit perfectly on your figure.

There is a separate article on the site about how to build a one-piece sleeve for a dress.

This article talks about how to build a pattern for a dress base for beginners, in simple words, with a detailed description and drawing of each stage of construction.

A pattern - a base - is a basic drawing of a product, made to individual measurements, made on paper, on the basis of which various styles are subsequently modeled. Building a pattern - the foundation is necessary for both beginners in sewing and experienced seamstresses, and you need to take it very responsibly. The quality of fit of the future product on the figure, its beauty and convenience in the process of wearing depends on how well the pattern is built. The accuracy of the patterns made on its basis depends on how well the pattern is made - the basis, and the error made in it, reaching the finished product, can develop into a serious defect.

Let's build the base pattern of the dress according to your measurements.

Materials and tools:

- paper (preferably graph paper), centimeter tape, ruler, pencil

Measurements:

We measure on the figure, I indicate mine as an example, you measure yours.

– Dress length (Di) = 100 cm,

- Length of the back to the waist (Dts) = 43 cm,

- Armhole depth (GPr) = 21 cm,

- Hip height (Wb) = 22 cm (taken without measurements from 20 to 22 cm, but I prefer to take measurements from the figure),

- Shoulder length (DPL) = 13 cm,

- Half-circumference of the neck (PoSh) = 17 cm,

- Half-girth of the chest 1 (half-girth above the chest, PoG1) \u003d 42.5 cm,

- Half chest 2 (half chest, PoG, PoG2) = 46 cm,

- Semi-waist circumference (POT) = 31 cm,

- Semicircumference of the hips (PoB) = 48.5 cm

We calculate auxiliary measures

(formulas valid for exhaust gas > 80 cm):

- Depth of the armhole GPR = OG / 10 + (10.5_12 cm) = 92/10 + (10.5_12) = 19.7_21.2 cm. (In my case, the measured value entered the calculated range, and GPR = 21 cm. If your values do not match, you must take the average between the measured and calculated).

- Armhole width ShPr = OG / 8 - 1.5 cm = 92/8 - 1.5 = 10 cm,

- Back width SS = OG / 8 + 5.5 cm = 92/8 + 5.5 = 17 cm,

- Chest width WH = OG / 4 - 4 cm = 92/4 - 4 = 19 cm

Choose the degree of fit of the dress

When constructing a base pattern, it is necessary to take into account the allowance for freedom of fit (hereinafter referred to as PSO), this is the “air amount” between the human body and the product. The dress is very adjacent, adjacent, semi-adjacent and straight silhouette. I will build a dress pattern of an adjacent silhouette, my increases are as follows:

PoG with PSO \u003d 46 + 1.5 \u003d 47.5 cm,

SHG with PSO = 19 + 1 = 20 cm,

AL with PSO = 17 + 0 = 17 cm,

SPR with PSO = 10 + 0.5 = 10.5 cm,

GPR with PSO = 21 + 0.5 = 21.5 cm

Building a pattern-basis of a dress

Step 1. Construction of a basic rectangle. In the upper left corner, stepping back from the top 10 cm, put point A. Draw down a vertical line with a length = Di = 100 cm. Mark point H. From point H, draw a horizontal line with a length PoG + PSO = 47.5 cm to the right, mark point H1 (НН1 is located in relation to AH at an angle of 90˚). From point A, draw a horizontal line to the right 47.5 cm long, mark point A1. Connect points A1 and H1. The result is a quadrilateral AA1H1H, check that all angles in it are necessarily 90˚.

Step 2 Building horizontal lines.

Step 2a. chest line. From point A along the line AN down, set aside AG \u003d GPR + PSO \u003d 21.5 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point G1, as shown in the drawing.

Step 2b. Waistline. From point A along the line AN down, set aside AT \u003d Dts \u003d 43 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point T1, as shown in the drawing.

Step 2c. Hip line. From point T along the line AH, lay down TB \u003d Wb \u003d 22 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point B1, as shown in the drawing.

Step 3 Auxiliary armhole lines. On the chest line GG1, to the right of point G, set aside the value of SH + PSO = 17 cm, mark point P1, from point P1 to the right, set aside ShPr + PSO = 10.5 cm, mark point P2. Check the length of the segment P2G1, it should be equal to ШГ + PSO = 20 cm. From points P1 and P2, build perpendiculars to the segment AA1, mark points P3, P4.

Step 4. Side line. In the middle of the segment P1P2, mark the point P, draw a vertical line to HH1.

Step 5. The neck of the back. From point A to the right, set aside AA2 \u003d PoW / 3 + 0.5 cm \u003d 17/3 + 0.5 \u003d 6.2 cm, I will round up to 6.5 cm. From point A2 we build a perpendicular, on it at a distance of 2 cm from AA1 mark point A3. We connect AA3 with a smooth concave line.

Step 6 Back shoulder. From point P3, lay down 1.5 cm, mark point P5. Connect points A3 and P5 with a straight line. From point A3 set aside Dpl \u003d 13 cm, mark point P6.

Step 7. Armhole back. Divide the segment P3P1 in half, denote the midpoint as P7. From point P1, construct a bisector of angle P3P1P 2 cm long. Draw a concave smooth line from point P3 to point P through point P7 and the bisector of angle P3P1P.

Step 8. Front neckline. From point G1 upwards, set aside G1A4 \u003d PoG / 2 + 0.5 cm \u003d 23.5 cm. From point A4 to the left, draw a horizontal line, set aside the segment A4A5 \u003d PoW / 3 + 0.5 cm \u003d 6.2 cm (I will round up to 6.5 cm). From point A4, lay down the segment A4A6 \u003d PoW / 3 + 1.5 cm \u003d 7.2 cm (I will round up to 7.5 cm). Connect the points A5 and A6 with a smooth concave line.

Step 9. Shelf shoulder and chest tuck. Set aside 4 cm from point A5 to the left, then 1 cm down, mark point P8. Connect points A5 and P8 with a straight line.

From the point P8, lower the perpendicular to the line of the chest. Set aside 1 cm from the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the line of the chest to the right, mark the point G2. Connect the points P8 and G2 with a straight line. Divide the segment P8G2 in half, from the division point to the left, build a horizontal segment with a length = PoG - PoG1 = 46 - 42.5 = 3.5 cm. Draw a straight line through the end of the segment from point G2, set aside the segment G2P9 = G2P8 on it.

On the armhole line of the back, mark the middle of the segment P3P7 with the point P10. Connect points P9 and P10 with a straight line. On it, from point P9, set aside a segment to the left = DPL - 4 cm (rounded length of segment A5P8) - 1 cm = 8 cm. From the end of the segment, lower the perpendicular to the line P9P10 2 cm long, mark point P11. Connect P9 and P11 with a straight line.

When sewing, the tuck will close, the points P8 and P9 will be aligned, the line A5P8P9P11 is the line of the shoulder of the shelf, its length is slightly less than the length of the shoulder of the back, if after modeling the lengths of the shoulders do not change, then when sewing the shoulder of the back will need to be slightly seated.

Step 10. Armhole shelves. From the point P2 upwards, set aside the distance = 1 / 4P2P4. Mark point P12. Connect P11 and P12 with a straight line. Divide the segment P11P12 in half, from the obtained point to the right, build a perpendicular to the segment P11P12 1 cm long. From the point P2, build the bisector of the angle PP2P4 2 cm long. Draw a concave smooth line from the point P11 to the point P through the perpendicular, point P12 and the bisector of the angle PP2P4.

Step 11. Travel darts. The sum of the solutions of all tackle tucks \u003d PoG - PoT \u003d 46 - 31 \u003d 15 cm. 1/3 of the amount we take it to the side tucks (I have 15/3 = 5 cm). 2/3 of the amount (10 cm) for the front and back tucks, and we take a little more for the back tuck (6 cm). With this value of the solution, when sewing a dress, it is necessary to make 2 darts on the back (distribute 6 cm into two darts), but we are now building a base pattern, a base for further modeling of various styles, and my size of the dress itself is small, so here I will build 1 tuck with such a large solution, and when modeling a specific style, decide how many tucks I need on the finished product . 4 cm remains on the tuck of the shelf.

Side darts. From the point T2 to the right and to the left, we set aside 5/2 = 2.5 cm. The resulting points are connected by straight lines with the point P and with the midpoint or 1/3 of the segment B2T2 (depending on the steepness of the hips).

Back tuck. We divide the segment GP in half and lower the perpendicular to the line BB1. On the perpendicular from the GP segment, lay down 2_3 cm, from the BB1 segment upwards 2 cm. From the point T2 to the right and to the left, lay off 6/2 = 3 cm each. We build a tuck.

Shelf pullout. From the point G2 we lower the perpendicular to BB1. On the perpendicular from the point G2, lay down 5_6 cm. From the point T3 to the right and to the left, lay off 4/2 = 2 cm each. We build a tuck.

Step 12. The line of the side seam of the bottom of the dress. We calculate the insufficient volume along the hip line = PoB - (PoG + PSO) = 48.5 - 47.5 = 1 cm. From the B2 line to the right and left, we set aside the values \u003d (insufficient volume + 1 cm) / 2 = 1 cm. We build lines side seam, as shown in the drawing (red line - back line, blue - shelf line), check the values \u200b\u200b(distance from B to the red line) + (distance from B1 to the blue line) \u003d PoB + 1 cm.

Step 13. The pattern is ready. I advise you to leave it in this form on graph paper, and do the modeling on copies made on tracing paper.

Now you know how to build a base pattern to your measurements and you can do it yourself.

Every girl or woman wants to look attractive. The first thing that catches your eye is the women's outfit. Shops are bursting with a variety of clothing items, and yet finding the perfect fit is not an easy task. You can order from a seamstress, but it will not be cheap. In this case, the way out is to make clothes with your own hands. Only the woman herself knows all her whims and features of her figure. Therefore, it will be very useful for her to learn how to make a pattern for a dress.

Why classic

To be able to combine different elements of clothing in an image is a real art. A well-chosen outfit emphasizes all the advantages and skillfully hides the flaws. The variety of clothing has reached such a peak that it is difficult not to get confused. Dozens of styles, hundreds of shades, various materials. How not to drown in all this diversity and choose really something of your own? Each woman has an individual approach, her own chip, which is present in the style. And yet there is something in common in the wardrobe of every representative of the beautiful part of humanity. Classic, in other words. Almost every woman has a pencil skirt, blouse and sheath dress in her wardrobe. The latter will be discussed.

The sheath dress sits on the figure, it is rarely decorated with catchy fragments. This is exactly what makes it special. The dress seems to say: “I don’t just decorate a woman, this woman decorates me.”

The simplicity of the dress is its advantage. Yes, and making it with your own hands is much easier than you might think. No need to think long about how to build a dress pattern. For beginner seamstresses or just for creative people, there is already a detailed description of all the stages and schemes.

Fitted dress

The first step before starting to build a pattern is to take measurements. To do this, you will need 2 measuring tapes, a long elastic band for clothes and 2 rulers.

Although you need to take quite a lot of measurements, you should not be afraid and give up your plan. The more precise measurements are taken, the better the dress will fit. First you need to determine all the lines of the future design:

For convenience, measurements can be recorded in a table, where the name of the measurement will be in the left column, and the measurement itself in the right column. For example:

Required measurements

The full name of the place of measurement should be written only in the table; on the pattern itself, it is reduced to a few letters so as not to interfere with the construction. So, the necessary measures:

Breast ratio (Kg). Use a tape measure to measure your full bust circumference and divide by 20.
Waist (From). Tie the elastic tightly around the waist. Lean in all directions, then the elastic itself will find the narrowest place on the body - the waistline. With a measuring tape on an elastic band, measure From. Do not remove the rubber yet.
The length of the back from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist (Dst 7) - along the back is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist line, excluding the bulge of the shoulder blades.
Back length from waist (Dst). Measured from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder seam, vertically down to the waist line.

Front length to waist (Dpt). Measure from the same point as Dst, across the most prominent part of the chest.
Mass of the breast (Mg) is the degree of convexity of the breast, which is measured by a line from the most convex part to the overlying beginning of the mammary glands.
Shoulder Width (Shp) - measured from the point of the base of the neck to the edge of the shoulder along the seam line.
Shoulder height (Vp). Rest one ruler with the beginning at the base of the neck and place it parallel to the ground, the second - perpendicular to the first, put the beginning at the end of the shoulder. The distance from the edge of the shoulder along the upper ruler is Vp.

Side height (Wb). Measure the distance from the armpit to the waist line along the side seam.
Chest height (Vg). Measure from the point of the base of the neck down to the protruding part of the chest.
The center of the chest (Cg) is the distance between the two most protruding parts of the breasts. It should be noted that the measurement should not be done from the center to the center, but rather to capture the areola a little more.

Back width (Ws). Measure the distance along the back from one armpit to another, divide the resulting value by 2.
Chest width (Wh). Do the same as for Shs, only on the front.
The volume of the hand (Op). Arm circumference near the armpit.
Arm length to the elbow (DRL). Sleeve length from shoulder joint to elbow.
Sleeve length (DR) is the distance from the shoulder to the wrist.
Hip coefficient (Kb). Measure the circumference of the hips at the most convex parts and divide by 20.

The darts for the top of the dress can be built using the above measurements, but for the bottom they need to be measured separately. Darts have their own length (H) and depth (L).

Measurements are taken from three conditional lines: side, front and back lines.

To measure side tuck (HbLb), you need to rest one ruler to the side at waist level parallel to the floor, and attach the beginning of the second to the most protruding point of the thigh as shown in the figure below:

Do the same with the other two darts (front and back): the ruler at the waist intersects with the ruler at the most convex part of the abdomen or hips. Record both values of the rulers from their beginning. For example (in centimeters): Hb=25, Lb=5; Hp=11, Lp=3; Hz=18, Lz=7.

Building a pattern

To build a pattern, you need to take 8 steps:

Build the upper back;
Extend down the back pattern for the skirt;
Build the top of the shelf;
Extend the shelf for the skirt;
Make an addition to the general pattern;
Close darts;
Build a sleeve;
Connect the sleeve with the pattern.

It seems that such an idea is not so easy, how to make a pattern for a dress. Step by step construction will greatly facilitate the task. It is like a children's game in which some animal or toy is drawn by cells. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions, and then all the drawings themselves will add up correctly.

So, to build a pattern, you will need a lot of graph paper, a pattern, a ruler, a pencil, and adhesive tape.

Now we will analyze in detail how to quickly build a base pattern for a dress point by point in 8 steps.

Product back

On graph paper, stepping back a little from the left edge, draw a vertical line - measure Dst7. From above, from the beginning of the drawn line, go down to a segment equal to 1/2 from Kg and put point A9. From it to the right, draw a segment that is equal to 1.5 Kg, and put a point 1. Vertically upward from point 1, rise 1/2 from Kg and put point A8. Using the template, draw a neck line from A8 to A9, you can do it yourself.

From A8, go down vertically to Dst and draw a horizontal straight line through this point - this is the waist line (line T). From A8 to the right, retreat 2.5 Kg and descend to Vp. From A8 through the bottom of Vp draw Shp, its end is the point Pzad. From point 1, retreat 3.5 Kg down, from the point formed to the right, measure the distance of 2.25 Kg (+1/2 Kg - individually) and put point P6. Measure the distance X vertically from P6 to Shp. Write it down. From P6 go down by 1/2 Kg \u003d t. S.

Dart. From A8 to the right along Shs, retreat 1.5 / 2 Kg (received point V1) and lower by H = 2 Kg - this is the height of the tuck. Set aside a depth equal to 3/4 Kg to the right of the upper point H (strictly horizontally, not along the Shp line). Connect the resulting point (V2) to the lower end of H. Then, from the point Pzad, strictly horizontally set aside a length of 3/4 Kg, the extreme point Pz 'obtained, connect it to V2. This is done so that when the tuck is closed, the length of the shoulder does not decrease.

Connect the points Pz ’and S with a line. Divide the line in half and, as it were, retreat 0.3-0.5 mm inside the pattern (t. N). Extend the line from P6 down to the waist (= p. T6). From T6 to the right, retreat 1.5 Kg \u003d t. T5, from it On Wb draw a segment upwards (subtracting 1.5-2.5 cm from the measurement by “understatement”) \u003d t. P5. Draw a perpendicular to the line P6P5. From the angle formed diagonally upwards and to the right, construct a segment equal to 1.3 / 2 Kg \u003d m. F.

With a pattern, draw a bend through the points Pz '-N-F-P5 - the line of the armhole.

Skirt with waist

First you need to form waist tucks. They come from skirt measurements.

The volume of the waist along the back is calculated by the formula: Ots \u003d 5 * Kb - Lz - Lb / 2. This value should be obtained when closing all waist darts. On the current pattern, the waist line is slightly wider. Subtract Ots from the length of the waistline, and the resulting value is the sum of all future tucks. For example: Ots \u003d 5 * 5 - 3 - 6/2 \u003d 19 cm; the waist length on the pattern is 27 cm. Then 27 - 19 \u003d 8 cm is an extra volume. The excess value must be scattered over the tucks in this way:

Cut off the outermost darts. From the formed lateral edge, go down to Hb and draw Lb to the right. Connect Lb and the edge of the waist. Starting from point T6, go down to Hz, connect the lines of the tuck. From the undercuts of point T8, lower two lines to the end of the pattern, || each other.

Shelf cut

The drawing will be drawn to the right. Stepping back a little from the left edge, draw a line vertically. Departing from its beginning 1.5 Kg, put point A1. From A1 to the right 1.5 Kg = v.2. From point 2 up 1.5 Kg = point A2. Connect using the pattern A1 and A2.

From A2 down measure Dpt, draw a waist line through its end. From point 2 down Kg, draw horizontally through this point from the line A1T1 Shg \u003d P4. From P4 upwards, draw a segment equal to X - 1.5 / 2 Kg.

From A2 through the upper end of the line X - 1.5 / 2 Kg, draw Shp \u003d end point Pp.

From A2 down Vg, through the formed point from A1T1 draw Shg \u003d t.G3. Connect G3 and P4 with a segment. Find its center, from which draw a perpendicular with a length equal to Mg / 2. Through the other end of the perpendicular from point G3, draw a line G3P4′, equal to G3P4. From P4′ down draw a perpendicular to the waist = t.T4. From T4 to the right, retreat Kg = t.T5. From T5 climb to Wb (subtracting the same understatement as on the back) = point P5. From P5 retreat to the left by 1.5 / 2 Kg and up by Kg / 2 = m. Z. From P4 go down by Kg / 2 = t.M.

Next, it is worth closing the tuck P4G3P4 ′. After that, Connect the line t.M and Pp. Find the middle of the segment, retreat from it 0.3 mm inside the pattern (point N). Using the template, draw an armhole line through the points Pp-N-Z-P5.

Front extension

It is done in the same way as in paragraph 2, only it is calculated by the formula: Ops \u003d 5 * Kb - Lp - Lb / 2.

The most extreme tuck is easy to remove. From the lateral edge, go down to Nb and step back to the side Lb. Connect Lb and the edge of the waist. From t.T2 go down to Hp, draw the edges of the tuck. From the cutout on T4, draw two parallels to the end of the pattern, as shown below.

Volume addition

To prevent the dress from sitting too tight, you need to make it a little looser. Increase the armhole line by 0.2 cm, gradually increase from P5 to the waist from 0.5 to 1 cm, down the skirt - by 0.5 cm. Now you can cut out the pattern.

It is better to close the darts inward, you can use adhesive tape so that they do not straighten out.

Sleeve scheme

Choose your sleeve width. A sleeve will look harmonious, in which the degree of increase in freedom \u003d double the understatement of the armhole.

To build a sleeve, you need to measure the total length of the armhole of the pattern and divide the value by 3 (value \u003d O1O). Build a vertical segment O1O, the pattern will go down and to the sides.

Horizontally through t.O draw Shr. Divide into 4 equal parts. From the 2 central parts raise a perpendicular equal to 1/4 Fr. Connect with a line P4-P6. Set aside the value of 3/8Kg from P4.

From P5zad, set aside a segment equal to 1 / 2Kg \u003d t.P5zad '. Smoothly connect the points P5p-P4'-O1-P6-P5zad'. From O1 down to Drl. Set aside 2.75 Kg = t.Q1 to the left, 3.25 Kg = t.Y1 to the right. From the middle of the last segment, take tucks equal to 1/4Kg, as shown in the figure. From O1 down to Dr. To the left - 2.5 Kg = t.Q2, to the right - 2 Kg = t.Y2. From Y2 descend by Kg/2. Find the middle of the left side, connect to the point.

Attach the sleeve to the dress, make sure that the line of the armhole matches, in case of a slight mismatch, correct it. Now you can cut the dress.

Children's outfit

The same clothes for mother and daughter came into fashion. Indeed, such images look very harmonious. If a woman has already decided to cut a dress for herself, then she can also please her little daughter by buying a little more fabric.

Parameter measurement

For a girl, sewing a dress will be much easier. Here, you can take an ordinary T-shirt as a basis and take measurements from it, such as the length of the shoulder and the neck. If in doubt, then some measurements should be taken from the child:

Growth;
Half bust.

Choose the length of the product yourself. A1A2 - half-girth of the chest + 6 cm. G1G2 is equal to A1A2 / 4 + 7 cm - this is the length of the product to the armpits.

The neckline and armhole lines are best guided with a pattern.

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