Construction of men's shorts with an elastic band. Pattern of men's shorts: taking measurements, building a pattern, tips for novice seamstresses and experienced craftsmen in video tutorials

27.06.2019

What could be more comfortable than shorts for men on a hot summer day? Of course, you won't go to work in this form, but to relax on the street and at home this is exactly what you need. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to buy an expensive thing, because the pattern of which is very easy, you can sew it yourself. To do this, you will need fabric, paper or a construction oilcloth to model the workpiece, a typewriter and, of course, desire.

About cutting and sewing

The pattern of men's shorts is done in two ways.

The first way

Modeling shorts on the main Here you will need to calculate the length of the future product, make allowances for free fit and remove the tackle darts. The first two points are clear, but what about the last? There is nothing complicated about it. The fit of the shorts at the waist is usually done with an elastic band and drawstring, while the leg is in most cases straight from the hip. Therefore, in order to align the outer cut of the leg, you need to remove the dart. To do this, a perpendicular is drawn from its top to the bottom, along this line, the pattern of men's shorts is cut to the top and aligned at the waist. Increases are made along the side seams so that the shorts can be easily put on.

If the style provides for a standard trouser fit and a zipper, then it will be enough to adjust only the length. Such construction of the pattern of shorts is used by professional cutters.

Second way

It is a little clumsy, but if you don't have a basic base of trousers of the right size at hand, you simply cannot do without it. In this case, the pattern of men's shorts is done as follows:

Depending on the chosen style, the shorts can be modeled using a pattern made in both ways. So, for example, in the side seams it is easy to leave decorative cuts with rounded edges of the front and back halves. Side inserts made of contrasting fabric will look interesting, and it can be not only straight vertical lines. The pattern of men's shorts can be cut into several parts with smooth lines or sharp corners, but remember that the more shaped parts, the harder the assembly of the product.

About color

The pattern on the fabric is not always appropriate, but summer shorts are exactly the thing that will only benefit from its presence. Floral patterns, vertical, horizontal and even diagonal stripes, camouflage colors and the most incredible models with embroidered fabrics are all a fashion trend that has lived for many seasons. And combinations with such a thing can be the most unexpected. Designers in their collections suggest combining seemingly inappropriate things, but the result is simply amazing. So, for example, a combination of a strict jumper with striped shorts, a jacket with embroidered capri pants or a plain shirt with a model with a floral pattern. There are a lot of variations, so even the most capricious man can find his ideal summer version without changing his style.

I never thought that on an old household sewing machine, for example, "Chaika 142", which has no knitted stitches, but has a zigzag, you can sew jerseys. But all the same, it turns out, you can! You just need to know some of the intricacies of working with knitwear. About them a little later, but for now, I sewed these jersey shorts for my son in the summer literally in a day on an old Chaika sewing machine:

Shorts with elastic, with side pockets, very comfortable to wear.

The calculations are very simple, you can build a pattern of parts on paper and then cut it out, but I did everything directly on the fabric, which significantly saved me time and of course ... paper for patterns.

The pattern is suitable for both men's jersey shorts and teenage ones. By the way, this pattern can be used to sew men's "family" pants.

First of all, you need to take measurements of the figure and write it down in a notebook. Below are the measurements of a teenage son, you substitute yours.

Waist half-girth (POT) = 30 cm;
Half girth of the hips (PHB) = 43 cm;
Sitting height (Sun) = 21.5 cm (measure in the "sitting" position, vertically, to the side of the waistline, down to the chair, or calculate: PHB divided by 2);
Product length (Dizd) = 45 cm.

What do you need?

The fabric is knitted, if you sew shorts without pockets: Dizd + 10 cm, with pockets: Dizd + 10 cm + 30 cm;
Paper, pencil, elastic band, scissors - for patterns (you can do without them if you cut them directly on the fabric);
Sewing machine, sewing accessories;
Elastic band 2.5 cm wide and equal to the waist;
Non-woven for pockets.

How to build a pattern for men's shorts

The pattern of the shorts was previously drawn in a notebook (very convenient, by the way! - it's faster and easier to cut the details later):

Let's start building the front halves of the shorts. From the top of the product, that is, the waist line (in the drawing - LT), we put down the height of the seat - 21.5 cm, draw a horizontal line - the line of the seat (LS). We put aside 4 cm along this line to the left and draw out the middle of the front with a smooth line.

Along the line of the seat to the left (from point 4) we postpone Pob / 2 + 4 cm: 43/2 + 4 = 25.5 cm.

Along the waist line, from the beginning of the codpiece, set aside ½ Sweat + 3 cm = 18 cm.

For narrowing along the bottom line, set aside 2-3 cm. Connect the resulting points, extend the line to the bottom - we get a side line.

We divide the line of the front seat (25.5 / 2 = 12.3 cm) in half - we got the ironing line, the middle of the front halves.

We draw the line of entry into the pocket. To do this, you need to set aside 4 cm from the line of the seat. From the waistline, set aside 6 cm. It remains to connect the points. The pattern of the front halves of the shorts is ready.

Let's move on to building the back halves of the shorts. To do this, we put the detail of the front half on the paper, retreating from the edge of the paper on the sides about 8-10 cm. We transfer all the lines: waist, seat, bottom.

From the side point along the waist line, set aside 8 cm, from the side point along the seat line - 5 cm, along the bottom line - 2 cm. Connect the points with lines.

From the center point along the waist line (where the middle seam will be), lay up 3 cm.

We connect the resulting point with the side point at the waist, and along this line we lay down the measurement POT / 2 + 3 cm = 30/2 + 3 = 18cm.

From the lateral point along the line of the hips, we lay aside (PHB / 2) x 1.5 = 32.25 cm.

Set aside 2 cm along the bottom line. Connect the resulting points. We make a slight deflection along the step line.

We make out the middle of the back half (in the drawing - the elephant). The back half is ready.

Please note that if you do not have enough fabric in width, you can make a gusset on the back halves.

We draw the pocket as in the diagram (set aside about 15 cm down from the seat line, depending on the depth of the pocket).

We cut out 2 parts of the pockets from paper: one with a trim flank, the second without.

We lay out the details of the pattern on the fabric; on the sides, waist and seat line, we make allowances for seams of 1 cm (note that our fabric is knitted, if the fabric is not elastic or low-elastic, it is better to increase the allowances to 2-2.5 cm, and correct them on fitting).

Down from the bottom line, lay 4 cm on the hem, draw a line parallel to the bottom, with an extension of 2 cm on the sides.

Cut out the details. We will need another belt detail. We cut without building patterns on paper. The width of the elastic is 2.5 cm, which means we multiply the measurement by 2, we get 5 cm plus allowances for seams on both sides of 1.5 cm, as a result, the width of the belt for cutting is 8 cm.To calculate the length of the belt, add 12 cm to the waist circumference plus seam allowances.

Check the number of parts:

front halves of shorts - 2 children;
back halves of shorts - 2 children;
a barrel with a sacking pocket - 2 children;
sacking pocket - 2 children;
belt - 1 child.

How to sew jersey on a sewing machine Chaika

It is necessary to match the number of the machine needle to the thickness of the fabric. Better, of course, to buy a special one designed for sewing knitted fabrics.
We convert the usual straight-line stitch to a zigzag one (mark “1” in the zigzag on “Seagull 142” and “3” is the step width). Visually, a line is obtained that practically does not differ from an ordinary straight line, but a slight inclination of the stitches allows you to stretch the fabric so that the line does not break while wearing the product.
You can try using a twin needle. In more detail, what is the resulting line, I told.

How to sew jersey shorts with side pockets

The entrances to the pockets must be duplicated with a strip of adhesive fabric (non-woven) from the seamy side.

We connect the burlap pockets and the front halves of the trousers with the front sides inward, lay the machine line along the markings, cut the corners, leaving 1 cm for the allowance.

We make notches along the bottom of the pocket (you can skip them, but it's more convenient for me).

We fold the burlap to the wrong side, lay a finishing line along the entrance to the pocket 0.5 cm from the fold.

We combine the barrels with the halves of the shorts, align the lining of the pockets, join it along the contours of the parts, the width of the allowance is 1 cm, overcast the edges with an overlock or zigzag stitch.

We do bartacks (regular machine stitches) along the top and sides of the pockets to attach the burlap.

We stitch side and step cuts, overcast, iron the seams.

We turn out one leg to the wrong side, insert the other half of the shorts into it, equalize the seams, pin it off, sew a machine stitch along the middle seam, carefully stretching the fabric along the elephant. If this is not done, the stitching may break while wearing the shorts. To reinforce the middle seam, lay in the second line. We sew over the allowances, iron them.

We measure the length of the belt along the waistline of the shorts, cut off the excess, leaving allowances for the seams.

We sew the belt into a ring, leaving an area of 2 cm unstitched as in the photo.

Iron the seam and lay the lines along the allowances so that when the elastic is threaded in, the allowances do not bend.

Fold the belt right side with shorts, pin or sweep. Stitch on a sewing machine. Sweep the edge of the belt's departure.

Then fold the belt in half lengthwise, baste and stitch into the split seam for attaching the belt to the shorts.

Insert the elastic into the belt, sew the ends with an overhead seam.

Neaten hem of shorts and hem with open hem. Men's jersey shorts are ready.

It turned out to be very comfortable and practical. And yet - I really liked to sew jersey. To such an extent that she decided to buy a sewing machine Gianome Juno 513.

Shorts are an essential attribute of a beach holiday, summer sun and good mood. Shorts are different - Hawaiian - in bright colors and light fabrics, bathing - short, designed specifically for swimming. But most often there are casual men's shorts, suitable for wearing in a big metropolis and hot weather, convenient for traveling to the country or working in the garden. A pattern for sewing stylish men's shorts is easy to build, having mastered the skill of taking measurements and building a model, it is easy to sew shorts yourself.

Consider creating patterns for men's shorts: taking measurements

Correctly taken measurements are the key to a correctly constructed pattern, which means well-fitting shorts. There are basic tailoring lines that you need to measure.

The lines shown in the picture are filmed by a tailor. Consider those that are necessary for taking measurements for shorts:

Waist circumference - to measure it, you need to tie a tape around the waist and measure the waist circumference exactly according to the tape. If the figure is not "typical", there is a tummy, then the man should be asked to put his hands on his belt, so he will understand at what level it is convenient for him to place the belt for his trousers. In this place, the measurement is taken;

2a. Waist circumference at belt level - it is measured below the waistline, depending on the type of figure;

Hip circumference - measured at the most prominent points of the buttocks;
Inside leg length - Measurement is taken from the inside of the leg (from groin to floor);
Groin depth is the difference between the length of the leg on the outside and the length of the leg on the inside;
Outside leg length - removed along the side from waist to floor;
Knee Height - It is measured from the waist to the center of the kneecap.

Building a pattern.

When all the necessary measurements are taken, they begin to build a pattern.

The measurements taken are necessary to ensure that the shorts fit exactly on the figure. The given measurements are 48 sizes. The previously taken measurements will be as follows:

Waist half-girth - 44 cm;
The half-girth of the hips along the buttocks is equal to 50 cm;
The length of the shorts is 56 cm.

Modeling the front half of the shorts.

From point A to the right and down, it is necessary to draw a horizontal line, as well as a vertical line.

Product length: from point A, the length of men's underpants is laid down by this measure - point H1: AH1 = 58 cm (the length of the shorts is assumed to be +2 cm).

Step line: for this, 1/2 of the half-girth of the hips is laid down vertically downward from point A by the measurement of +3 cm. Point B is marked.

AB length = 50/2 + 3 = 28 cm.

From point B, draw a horizontal line BG1 - this will be the step line for men's shorts.

Line НН1 = 2 cm.

From point H1, a line is drawn that is parallel to the AT line.

The width of the waist of the front half is constructed as follows: from point A along the line strictly to the right, half of the half-girth of the hips is laid down according to the taken measurement + 3 cm.This is point T. Length AT = 50/2 + 3 = 28 cm.

From point T, a perpendicular line is drawn down. At the intersection of this line with the step line, point B1 is set, and at the intersection of this line with the length line, point H4 is set. The length of the segment Н4Н2 is 1 cm.

Now points H and H2 are connected by a line slightly concave inward.

The width of the lower part of the front half is H2H3 = 5 cm, and TT1 = 1 cm.

Points A and T1 must be connected with a straight line.

To build the width of the step of the front half: from point B1 along the step line, 1/10 of the half-girth of the buttocks is laid to the right side according to the taken measurement + 0.5 cm and point G. Then B1G = 50/10 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm , and B1B2 = 9 cm.

Points B2 and G are connected with a line concave inward, and points G and H3 are also connected with a concave line.

Additionally, a one-piece zipper is built: width 4 cm and length 19 cm (zipper length is 18 cm).

The pattern of the front half of the men's shorts is marked with a green outline in the figure.

Modeling the back half of the shorts.

The back seam is measured: T1T2 = 2.5 cm.

Points Г and Т2 are connected by a straight line. From point T2, the line continues up.

From point T2, lay 4 cm straight up and mark point A1. Segment T2A1 = 4 cm.

Points A and A1 are connected by an even straight line.

The step width for the back half of men's shorts is GG1 = 4 cm.

The width of the bottom for the back half of men's shorts is laid as follows: from the point H4, 2 cm is laid to the left.

Points H and 2 (this is the lowest right point) are connected by a line slightly concave inward. Points A1 and G1 are connected with a line along the pattern (this is the red line on the pattern). Extend it by 1 cm and mark the point G2. Points Г2 and point 2 (lower point) are connected by a curved line.

The back half of the men's shorts on the pattern is marked in red, the front half in green.

The shorts are cut to fit on the fabric with a side seam. You can cut out the shorts unfolded, then they will be without a side seam. This can be done only if the width of the cut of the fabric allows.

This pattern makes summer men's shorts.

For sewing large shorts (size 56, for example), no special changes in the pattern are required, except for taking measurements on the figure. However, if the shape is irregular, the sewing will change slightly.

Shorts can be sewn with pockets, elastic, classic or youth.

Do-it-yourself shorts will fit perfectly.

Basic pattern of shorts

1. Draw a vertical line with the top at point T, from which the height of the seat is laid down: TY = measurement BC = 25 cm, where

BC = DSB - DN = 106 cm - 81 cm = 25 cm.

3. Position of the hip line: YB = 1/10 SB + 3 cm = 1/10 50 cm + 3 cm = 8 cm.

Draw horizontals through T, B, Z, H to the right.

4. The width of the front of men's shorts: YY 1 = 1/2 SB + 1 cm = 1/2 50 cm + 1 cm = 26 cm.

Draw up a vertical from Ya 1, at the intersection with the horizontals we get B 1, T 1.

5. Step width: I 1 I 2 = 1/3 of the segment IY 1 = 1/3 26 cm = 8.7 cm.

6. From Z 2 down, draw a vertical to the bottom line. We get H 1.

7. From H 1 set aside 2 cm to the left. H 1 H 2 = 2 cm.

8. Through I 2, H 2 draw a step cut and extend it 2 cm down. H 2 H 3 = 2 cm.

9. Draw a line for the bottom of the shorts in accordance with the picture.

10. To build the midline of the front of the shorts from B 1, set aside 1 cm to the right.

From Z 1 up to postpone 1/2 of the segment Z 1 I 2, we get a point O, which is connected by a straight line with Z 2.

Draw out the middle line through T 1, 1, Z 2.

11. To determine the step width of the back of the men's shorts, extend the auxiliary oblique line (segment OZ 2) by 3.5 cm outward and draw a step cut of the back of the shorts from this point to H 3.

12. Measure the length of the step cut of the front of the shorts and transfer to the back from bottom to top, we get I 4. I 2 H 3 = H 3 I 4

13. Divide the segment I 1 I 2 in half, we get I 3, which is connected by a straight line with T 1 and extend it upwards by 4-5 cm. T 1 T 2 = 4-5 cm.

On the line of the hips we get point B 2.

Draw out the middle line through T 2, T 1, B 2, Z 2, Z 4.

Pattern of shorts with a stitched belt

1. Duplicate the front and back of the basic jogging shorts pattern.

2. Draw the lines of the 21 cm long slant pocket as shown.

3. Draw a piece of pocket 2.5 cm wide.

4. Extend the line of entry into the pocket from the side cut by 0.7 cm outward and draw a new side cut of the front of the shorts. As a result, the entrance to the pocket will gain additional length and will not adhere to the product.

5. Draw pocket lining.

6. Measure the length of the upper cut of the shorts and draw a belt 2x4 cm wide. The length of the belt with elastic tape and cord should be 1/2 OTP.

Shorts pattern with one-piece belt

1. Copy the cut details of the front and back parts of the shorts from the drawing of the base base, check the length of the cuts and cuts at the mating points and align if necessary.

2. Draw a one-piece belt 4 cm wide parallel to the waist.

3. Draw the entrance to the pocket in accordance with the drawing, along the lateral line, expand the front of the shorts by 0.5 cm (lengthening the line of entry into the pocket) and draw a new line of entry into the pocket and the side line of the front of the shorts.

4. Draw the outlines of the pocket lining. Draw patch pocket on back of shorts.

Even if you are an aspiring seamstress, you can make simple clothes for your family. For example, here are such men's knitted shorts, in which you can walk around the house and put things in order at their summer cottage! For sewing such shorts, you can take any thin (summer) knitwear, but lacoste is best. This is a "perforated" knitted fabric, from which polo shirts are most often sewn. Lacoste is completely natural and very pleasant to work with: it will not stretch and deform like a cooler or other thin jersey. So for beginners - exactly what you need!

How to sew beginner shorts?

Materials and tools:

Lacoste fabric - 0.5 m,
Summer ribana with elastane (elastic 1 on 1) - small cuts for the belt and burlap pockets,
Tailor's pins,
Scissors,
Sewing machine,
Threads to match the fabric.

The shorts pattern is taken from the Ottobre children's fashion magazine (№1 / 2015) You can download the pattern. This is model # 38 (jersey pants that we turned into shorts), designed for heights from 134 cm to 170 cm. The pattern for heights 170 cm is just right for a full man's size 50. So, children's magazines are quite a profitable purchase, because you can sew adult clothes on them!

Manufacturing:

1. Cut out the necessary parts from the fabric. In Ottobre magazine, the pants are suggested to be sewn from pieces of fabric (the legs are divided lengthwise), but if you do not have such a need, make one-cut legs. As a result, you should have 2 front leg pieces, 2 back pieces, 2 burlap front pockets, 2 front pocket trim pieces and 2 wide belt pieces. It is better to cut out the burlap pockets and the belt from ribana, but the basic details of the shorts and the facing of the pockets are from lacoste.

2. First of all, heat up the iron and iron all parts to make sewing easier. Bend both parts of the belt in half and iron.

3. Fold the belt pieces right-side in and pin together the side edges on both sides. Connect the burlap pockets to the front leg pieces: do it along the cutout of the pocket, also folding the fabrics face to face.

4. Sew the waistband on both sides using a serrated stitch (great for knits and prevents the fabric from warping while sewing), then fold the waistband over the ironed fold. Sew the cutouts of the pockets with the same seam.

5.From the seamy side (from the one where you sewed the folds of the pockets), use scissors along the seam and make transverse cuts on the allowances at a distance of 5-7 mm from each other. Thanks to this technique, the side of the pocket will look nice and neat, it will not bulge.

6. Now you can turn the pockets inside out to the front side and, turning the burlap under the main part of the shorts, sew the entrance to the pocket with the usual straight seam, stepping back from the edge of 5 mm.

7. Flip the front of the shorts so that it lies seamy side up. On top of the folded burlap pocket, attach the second ribana pocket detail - the pocket facing. Fold the details of the pocket so that they are face to face. Pin off the edges of the pocket pieces.

8. Sew the edges of the pocket with two parallel seams (for security and for extra overcasting). Do the same for the second front pocket.

9. All the details of the shorts are already ready, so all that remains is to connect them. Fold the two front halves and the two back halves of the shorts in pairs, face to face, and sew them along the curved seams. Then sew the side seams (connect the front of the shorts to the back) and topstitch them, bending the seam allowances towards the front.

10. Fold the ribana belt with the fold down and attach it with a cut to the cut of the top of the shorts. The belt is a little narrower than the top of the shorts, so you will need to stretch it a little and pin it to the top. Then stitch the waistband to the top of the shorts with a knit stitch.

11. Fold the allowances left over from sewing the belt to the shorts down (towards the main part of the shorts) and stitch along the front side, stepping back 5 mm from the previous seam. Thanks to the straightening, the product will look neater.

12. Now pin the crotch seam (from the bottom of the left leg through the center to the bottom of the right leg) and sew. Tuck the bottom edge of both legs twice and sew with a straight seam parallel to the edge.