Presentation on the topic: Perfumes. Perfumes. Perfumery and cosmetics market analysis In recent years, the production of mass-market perfumes has increased. Perfumes and cosmetics. Presentation on the history of perfumery

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Perfume-

perfumery, perfume (flavoring) agent, alcohol or alcohol-water solutions of mixtures of fragrant substances - perfume compositions and infusions.

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Of all perfumes, perfumes contain the highest concentration of essential oils (from 15 to 30% or more), dissolved in almost pure alcohol (96%). Therefore, the durability of the smell of perfume is much higher than that of other perfumes (5 hours or more; on cotton fabric should be at least 30 hours).

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The composition of perfume compositions

For the preparation of perfumery compositions, more than three hundred natural and synthetic aromatic substances obtained from vegetable, animal and chemical raw materials are used. On average, the composition includes from 15 to 60 or more different aromatic substances. Usually the composition is 10-25% by weight of the perfume, in some perfumes - up to 50%.

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Fragrances

The raw materials for fragrant substances of plant origin are flower petals, fruits, leaves, roots of ether-bearing plants. Of these, by steam distillation and extraction, essential oils are obtained or with "flower lipstick". Rose, coriander, sandalwood oils are independent fragrant substances. Patchouli leaves, coriander seeds, oakmoss are used as infusions. Substances of plant origin make up the main aromatic mass of perfumes. Fragrances of animal origin are used only in the form of infusions to fix the aroma. These include amber, musk, castoreum and civet. Raw materials of animal origin are more expensive than other components, it is this that determines the level of quality of perfumes. From substances of plant origin, synthetic aromatic substances are produced by chemical means. As a raw material for their production, for example, coriander, sasafras, anise oil are used. This allows you to get flavors that have no analogues in nature.

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Solvent

Ethyl alcohol of very high concentration (up to 96%) is used as a universal solvent.

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Dyes

Dyes are used in the manufacture of perfumes. They are added to give the perfume liquid the desired color, which, however, does not affect its aromatic properties. Dyes are added in the form of aqueous solutions.

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Production

There are two main types of perfume production - distillation (a process of steam distillation) and enfleurage (a process based on the absorbent properties of fats). During distillation, essential oils evaporate at a certain temperature and condense into a container along with water, but due to their low density, they end up on the surface. After that, the oils are simply collected. Enfleurage is based on the sublimation of solids. Purified fat (mainly pigs) is used to trap vapors. Fat absorbs vapors of oils, and then with the help of the same distillation, they are separated. This process is good because you can extract essential oils without subjecting the plants themselves or the objects from which the smell is obtained to heat treatment. Crystalline fragrances are pre-dissolved in alcohol or in one of the liquid non-volatile components. Depending on the type of raw material, the process of extracting fragrant substances lasts from several hours to 1 year. For a more complete extraction of aromatic substances, the raw materials are treated with alcohol 2-3 times.

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Perfume production in ancient Egypt, fragment from a 4th century BC tomb.

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Aroma

Perfumes are divided into two groups according to the nature of the smell: Floral perfumes imitate the smell of one or more flowers. Perfumes created by the imagination of perfumers. Perfumes are divided into two groups according to the strength of the smell: Perfume with a light, delicate smell. Perfume with a strong smell.

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Storage

Perfumes should be stored in a dark, cool place, away from sunlight and tightly close the lid. Some components, if stored improperly, tend to evaporate and deteriorate faster than others, so the smell changes over time. The average recommended shelf life of perfumes is 2-3 years. Signs of spoilage are a change in color or the appearance of sediment.

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Perfume history

The history of the development of spirits goes far into the depths of centuries. From time immemorial, aromatic herbs and flowers have been constant companions of man. The ancient Egyptians used them as part of their religious rituals. Basically, odorous herbs were used in balms, various creams and incense. Aromatic oils have been used in cosmetics or medicines.

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Over time, spirits spread throughout the "civilized" world - Greece, Rome, Arab countries. The fall of the Roman Empire temporarily slowed down the rapid development of perfumery art, but in the 12th century, due to the development of international trade, the production and distribution of fragrances resumed with renewed vigor.

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In the 17th century, perfumes began to enjoy great success. In 1656 in France perfume and glove manufacturers carried out a joint project to produce scented gloves. The use of perfume in France became so popular that even the palace of King Louis XV began to be called the “fragrant court”, since literally everything was saturated with delicious smells there - not only the clothes of the courtiers, but all the furniture. However, such an active use of perfumes was associated not so much with the aesthetic feelings of the refined French, but with a banal desire to muffle other, far from so refined, smells that were saturated at that time in the city.

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Along with art and industry, perfumery also changed rapidly throughout the 19th century. Changes in tastes and the development of modern chemistry gave a new impetus to the development of perfumes. In connection with the markedly increased demand for aromatic products, industries for the production of raw materials for the production of perfumes began to actively develop (primarily the city of Grasse in Provence). And Paris became the world's largest center for the production of perfumes.

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Soon the question of storing perfumes in glass bottles arose. Perfume manufacturer Francois Coty, together with his friend Rene Lalique, began to supply bottles for such well-known brands as Guerlain, D "Orsay, Lubin, Molinard, Roger & Gallet and others. Baccarat also appeared, which gained fame as a bottle manufacturer for Mitsouko (Guerlain), Shalimar (Guerlain) and others, and the Brosse company created the famous bottle for the most popular fragrance Chanel No. 5, created by the great Mademoiselle Coco Chanel back in 1921. Until now, Chanel No. 5 is one of the most popular and loved fragrances around the world.

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Today, the perfume market has a huge variety of choices, more than twenty thousand fragrances are known.

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Perfume with pheromones

Pheromones (Greek φέρω - "carry" + ορμόνη - "induce, cause") - the collective name of substances - products of external secretion secreted by some animal species and providing chemical communication between individuals of the same species. Pheromones are biological markers of their own species, volatile chemosignals that control neuroendocrine behavioral responses, developmental processes, as well as many processes associated with social behavior and reproduction. Pheromones modify the behavior, physiological and emotional state, or metabolism of other individuals of the same species. As a rule, pheromones are produced by specialized glands.

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Discovery history

The first pheromones were discovered by a group of German researchers who in 1956 managed to isolate a substance from the glands of female silkworms that attracted males of the same biological species. The resulting substance was named bombycol, after the Latin name for the silkworm, Bombyx mori.

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Classification of pheromones

There are two main types of pheromones according to their effect: releasers and primers. Releasers are a type of pheromones that induce an individual to take some immediate action and are used to attract mates, signal danger, and induce other immediate actions. Primers are used to form some specific behavior and influence the development of individuals: for example, a special pheromone secreted by the queen bee. This substance inhibits the sexual development of other female bees, thus turning them into worker bees.

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As separate names for some types of pheromones, the following can be given:

epagons - sexual attractants; odmihnions - path marks indicating the way to the house or to the found prey, marks on the borders of an individual territory; toribones - pheromones of fear and anxiety; gonophyons - pheromones that induce sex change; gamophions - pheromones of puberty; etophions are behavioral pheromones.

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The use of pheromones

A couple of decades ago, perfumed products containing pheromones appeared. The composition of such funds is kept secret. Perfume manufacturers began to market both individual "elixirs of love" and "perfume with pheromones". Elixirs of love - a substance with synthetic pheromones, designed to be added to regular perfume. Perfume with pheromones is a ready-to-use product, and all the consumer needs is to choose the best fragrance for him. Sex pheromones are actively used in the perfumery and cosmetic industries. The use of such means enhances the attractiveness of the opposite sex at an unconscious level.

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Eau de Toilette

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Eau de toilette (French eau de toilette, the official term appeared in the 19th century) is a perfume flavoring agent in the form of alcohol-water solutions of fragrant substances. Usually toilet water contains from 4 to 10% of essential oils dissolved in alcohol 80-90% vol. Eau de toilette differs from perfume in a less harsh and less persistent aroma.

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The official term "toilet water" came about thanks to Napoleon I Bonaparte: while in exile on the island of St. Helena, the emperor came up with his own recipe for fragrant water with the addition of bergamot instead of running out of cologne. Napoleon called his invention "toilet water", and since then this term has become official.

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The history of toilet water is much older. In the ancient world, eau de toilette was widely used: sheds were sprayed with it, domestic animals were poured into city fountains, it moistened and filled with aromas the air at receptions. However, with the fall of the Roman Empire, toilet water became the property of the East for a while.

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Cologne

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Cologne

(French Eau De Cologne "Cologne Water") is a perfume created by the Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina

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In 1709, Johann Maria Farina founded a manufactory in Cologne, today the oldest perfume company in the world. Farina names her perfume in honor of her new homeland, the city of Cologne: Eau De Cologne - cologne ("Cologne water" - German Kölnisch Wasser).

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“My fragrance is reminiscent of a spring morning in Italy after rain, oranges, lemons, grapefruit, bergamot, zest, flowers and herbs of my homeland,” writes I. M. Farina in 1708 in a letter to her brother.

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Today, the centuries-old history of cologne is continued by Johann Maria Farina, a descendant of Farina in the eighth generation. "Eau de cologne" is a protected trademark of Farina's perfumes. To this day, the eighth generation of the Farina dynasty continues to produce the original Cologne water, the recipe of which was and remains a mystery. Over time, the name "Eau de Cologne" has become a general designation for perfumes with a light smell. In this case, flavored water is meant, which includes 70% alcohol and 2 to 5% aromatic substances.

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Deodorant

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Deodorants-

cosmetic products used to eliminate odor (deodorization, from dez - deprivation, elimination, and lat. odor - smell, i.e. elimination of odor). Most often, deodorants are used in the armpit area to eliminate odor caused mainly by the products of bacterial decomposition of sweat. The vast majority of deodorants sold are antiperspirant deodorants. These funds contribute to the closure of the sebaceous glands, and thus. prevent sweating. All antiperspirants known today are also deodorants, that is, they not only prevent the release of sweat, but also prevent the growth of bacteria.

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History

Initially, perfumes were used to reduce unwanted odors, which simply masked other odors. A variety of substances were used to deodorize air, rooms, etc. (charcoal, white lime solution, potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, etc.). Odors resulting from the (putrid) decomposition of organic substrates (human and animal excreta, foodstuffs, corpses, etc.) are in most cases rather unpleasant. The most effective are mixtures of several components - antiperspirants, essential oils, synthetic fragrances, solvents, etc., which have a more intense and persistent odor compared to individual components.

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Modern body deodorants

Currently, roll-on and roll-on antiperspirant deodorants, as well as deodorants in aerosol packaging, are most widely used. The active substance of antiperspirant deodorants are complexes of aluminum and zirconium. Ethyl alcohol is often present in these products, but not all consumers like alcohol-containing products: for sensitive skin, alcohol can be too drying.

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Deodorant safety issue

Some substances found in common body deodorants are of particular concern to hygienists, as there are concerns that they may have adverse effects on human health.

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This primarily applies to the following components:

aluminum salts. Parabens. Substances that release formaldehyde.

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Never underestimate the importance of perfume! Perfume is an expressive means of expressing individuality, which, moreover, creates a mood - and not only for you, but for those around you!

Presentation on the topic: "Chemistry in perfumery" History of perfumery

• Many centuries ago, the Arabs already knew various methods for obtaining fragrant substances from plants and animal secretions. In the perfume shops of the oriental bazaars, numerous merchants offered the richest selection of exquisite fragrant substances. They even provided each of their regular customers with a mixture of aromatic substances prepared especially for them, taking into account their individual characteristics. In medieval Europe, perfumes were not consumed. After ancient times, they reappeared only in the Renaissance. But already at the court of Louis XIV, ladies used them in abundance to drown out the unpleasant smell emanating from the body. Washing was not accepted. If earlier roses had to be cultivated on huge fields, their flowers collected and processed to get only a few kilograms of rose oil, today chemical plants produce wonderful fragrant substances incomparably cheaper, in much larger quantities, and also often with completely new shades of smells. Like perfumes, detergents have also become available to everyone only thanks to chemistry.

• acyclic monoterpenes
• monocyclic monoterpenes
• bicyclic monoterpenes
• sesquiterpenes
• aromatic compounds

• Chemically, terpenes are unsaturated compounds with a multiple of five carbon atoms. Terpenes (monoterpenes), sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes consist of two, three, four and six isoprene units, respectively. The composition of essential oils usually includes only monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes, diterpenes are found in resins, and triterpenes form a large class of plant sterols and are involved in the construction of glycosides. All these compounds can exist in the form of terpenoids, that is, oxygen derivatives: alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, phenols, acids, esters, lactones, oxides, quinones. They have many optical and geometric isomers. Terpenoids usually do not include tetraterpenoids (carotenoids, xanthophylls) and polyterpenes (rubber, gutta-percha).
• About 3,000 plant species produce essential oils, but only 150 to 200 are extracted from them. Essential oils add fragrance to flowers, but roots, leaves, and fruits usually contain much more. Some plants have special organs or tissues that produce these compounds, while others have essential oils emulsified or dissolved in the cytoplasm of cells. And in the leaf of St. John's wort, citrus peel, cassia wood, glandular formations (receptacles) can be seen with the naked eye: they look like translucent or dark dots. Another type of receptacles - tubules and passages - are found in the fruits of umbellate, bark and wood of a number of plants. They are especially noticeable in coniferous wood, they are called resin passages. Oil can accumulate in the form of glandular spots - small drops of essential oils just under the cuticle of the epidermis. Most often, essential oils accumulate in the glands that are on the surface of the plant (in the epidermal tissue); glands - outgrowths of the epidermis, specialized for the release and accumulation of essential oils.
• Plants contain different amounts of essential oils. In violet flowers there are 0.004% of them, in cloves, that is, in the buds of the clove tree, which we use as a spice, - 23%.

• shifting flowers with fatty seeds: in Europe - almonds, in India - sesame seeds. The seeds were saturated with essential oil, and a fragrant oil for cosmetics was obtained from them by ordinary pressing.
• enfleurage, the extraction of oils from fresh plants with solid fat
• mechanical extraction, with the help of which only citrus fruits are processed. The peel of the fruit is scraped off and pressed, the aqueous part of the juice in separating funnels is separated from the top layer of pure oil, which is poured into containers.
• maceration - the infusion of plants with liquid oils, often when heated or in the sun.
• steam distillation
• direct extraction from raw materials. It is carried out with volatile solvents in apparatuses of the Sosklet type or in countercurrent column apparatuses. After distillation of the solvent, lipstick is usually obtained, since heavier substances - waxes, resins - also pass into the solution. In this case, the essential oil is most often purified with alcohol, and the waste, consisting of waxes and fats, is used to prepare the basis for ointments and creams.

• Monoterpenes without cycles
• The best-known sources of these substances are rose, coriander, lavender and lemon. Acyclic terpenes can be considered as unsaturated fatty compounds with three double bonds. The most famous of these are myrcene, common in the oils of umbrella plants, geraniol (I) alcohol, which gives the smell of roses and geraniums, its isomer nerol with a completely different smell, and citral aldehyde (II) with a pleasant citrus smell.
• Rose oil has a strong bactericidal effect and promotes wound healing. Due to the high content of essential oil in the petals, rose jam is an excellent remedy for sore throats. Rose oil soothes, reduces allergic reactions, improves mood.
• Terpenes with one cycle
• Monocyclic terpenes are found in plants known in medicine as disinfectants and sedatives. These are cyclic compounds with two double bonds, mainly derivatives of methylisopropylcyclohexane, both double bonds can be located in the ring, or one of them in the ring and the other in the isopropyl group. Their oxygen derivatives are much more common.
• Menthol (IV), the best known of the monocyclic terpene alcohols, accumulates in large quantities in mint oil, from which it got its name (menta in Latin). The most mentholic of the many types of mint is peppermint. From its oil, when cooled in the refrigerator, menthol precipitates in the form of long transparent crystals.
• Cineole (V) determines the smell of another medicinal plant - sage.

• Terpenes with two cycles
• Bicyclic terpenes are compounds with two non-aromatic rings and one double bond. Their general formula is C10 H36. There are many oxygen derivatives in this group. In medicine, they are even more important than aliphatic compounds. From alcohols, sabinol, thujol (VI), borneol (VII) are typical, from ketones - camphor (VIII), fenchon, thujone (IX). Almost all of these compounds are highly toxic.
• The richest source of substances of this group is juniper. One of them got its name from the sabina juniper. The main components of its oil are pinene, camphene, sabinene and their oxygen derivatives - borneol and isoborneol. There is a lot of essential oil not only in fruits, but also in needles, and even in wood. It has a pleasant smell and a strong bactericidal effect.
• Sesquiterpenes
• Sesquiterpenes are also called sesquiterpenes, because they contain 15 carbon atoms - one and a half times more than just terpenes. These substances are found, for example, in linden. The subtle smell of its flowers is due to the aliphatic sesquiterpene alcohol farnesol (X). Linden is an old and effective diaphoretic, and its flowers are used to flavor champagne.
• Plants containing cyclic sesquiterpenes usually have a very complex essential oil composition, in which it is difficult to isolate the main substance. Usually this is a mixture of substances of very different structures, and it is impossible to characterize the plant by the main substance. Cyclic sesquiterpenes may have one to three rings. The most common are monocyclic terpenes of the bisabolene type; terpenes of this type are formed by a closed hydroaromatic ring with a long aliphatic chain and two double bonds, one in the ring, the other in the chain.

• aromatic compounds
• Aromatic compounds in the composition of essential oils give them a particularly strong and pleasant smell. Aromatic hydrocarbons are relatively rare, but the variety of their oxygen derivatives is amazing. Most of the plants containing these substances are used not only in medicine, but also in cooking, like spices. Aromatic sesquiterpenes give the smell of dill, fennel, star anise, anise, spicy and ordinary cloves, vanilla, thyme and thyme, oregano.
• Anethole (XII), isolated for the first time from dill seeds, has extremely interesting properties. In addition to antispasmodic and carminative action, anethole helps with coughing. It is excreted from the body through the lungs and even through the skin, causing an increase in mucus secretion and the death of bacteria along the way.

• Violet smell - alphairon
• Musk amber
• camphor smell

• The position of the substituents in the molecule has a great influence on the smell. Esters of b-naphthol with a pleasant and strong smell are widely used in perfumery, and esters of a-naphthol do not smell at all:
• The same effect can be observed in polysubstituted benzenes (vanillin):
• Affects the smell and the position of the double bond in the molecule. Isoeugenone
• the smell is more pleasant than that of the eugenon itself

• 1. Citrus. In citrus fruits, essential oils obtained by squeezing the zest of fruits such as lemon, bergamot, orange, grapefruit, etc. are felt. This family contains the first colognes used by men and women. 2. Floral. This family, most importantly, groups perfumes whose main theme is the flower: rose, jasmine, violet, lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, tuberose. 3. Woody. This family includes perfumes with warm undertones like sandalwood and patchouli, sometimes dry like cedar, and vetiver. In men's compositions, along with woody notes, there are lavender and citrus notes. 4. Amber. Under the name “amber perfumes”, which are also called “oriental perfumes”, compositions with soft, powdery, vanilla, cistus-labdanum and pronounced animal notes are grouped. The soft amber subfamily is the most representative of this category. 5. Shipry. The name of this family comes from the perfume that François Coty named as such when it was launched in 1917. The success of this chypre was such that it became the head of a large family that brings together perfumes based mainly on accords of oakmoss, cistus-labdanum, patchouli, bergamot. 6. Ferns. This name has nothing to do with the smell of ferns, contains an accord of lavender, woody, oakmoss, coumarin, bergamot, etc.

• Fragrant is usually understood as pleasant-smelling organic substances. It is unlikely that anyone would say that about chlorine or mercaptan, although they have their own smell. When smelling substances in general are meant, they are called odorous. From a chemical point of view, there is no difference. But if science studies smelling substances in general, then the industry (and primarily perfumery) is mainly interested in fragrant substances. True, it is difficult to draw a clear line here.

• Title page
• History of perfumery
• Essential oils
• Types of essential oils
• How are essential oils obtained?
• Monoterpenes and terpene with one cycle
• Terpenes with two rings, sesquiterpenes
• aromatic compounds
• Chemical formulas of odors
• Chem. Smell formulas
• Types of Perfumed Smell
• 12, 13, 14. Perfumes

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Topic №2 Perfumery and chemistry

Even the most sophisticated outfit needs at least a drop of perfume. Only they will give it completeness and perfection, and they will add charm and charm to you. Yves Saint Laurent

The approach of a woman must be felt before she appears. Marcel Rocha

Time will pass, and you will forget what the woman was wearing, but the smell of her perfume will remain in your memory for a long time. Christian Dior

In order to perfume yourself as best as possible, you need to ... disperse them in the air in front of you and go forward. Perfume is like love, you can’t skimp here. We must give ourselves to them completely and completely, and not a little here, a little there. Estee Lauder

Spirits, like love, are elusive. You can choose them for a long time and carefully, or you can just fall in love ... Unknown author

Perfume is the shortest road between a woman and the whole world… Jean Paul Guerlain

Perfume is a memory that does not fail. Pierre Cardin

Smell plays a very important role in human life. It begins with the perception of another person. A. Vitkovskaya

What is perfume ... Perfume - alcohol solutions of mixtures of fragrant substances - perfume compositions and infusions, used as a flavoring agent.

Aromas are different in concentration: Perfume (parfum, extrait), concentration 20-30%; Perfumery water (eau cle parfum, Parfum cle Toilette, Esprit de parfum, Eau cle parfum), concentration 15-25%; Toilet water (eau de Toilette), concentration 10-20%; Eau de cologne for men or the lightest feminine fragrance (eau de cologne), concentration 3 -5%

The most expensive perfume in the world 1.Clive Christian's Imperial Majesty This perfume holds the Guinness Book of Records as the most expensive perfume in the world. with a 5 carat gold band and a 5 carat diamond.Price includes shipping to Bentley.Imperial Magesty perfume is made up of 200 rare ingredients.

2. Clive Christian No. 1 Katie Holmes used this perfume on her wedding day. The composition of the fragrance includes vanilla, sandalwood, violet tree and ylang-ylang. The cost of perfume is $2,150 (64,500 rubles). The bottle is handmade and adorned with a 3 carat diamond.

3. Caron's Poivre This is the so-called "unisex" perfume that can be used by both men and women. Perfume was created in 1954. The fragrance contains black pepper, cloves, red pepper and other spices. That is why the perfume is called Poivre, which means "pepper" in French, is a limited edition perfume that costs $2,000.

4. Chanel No. 5 These are not only very expensive, but also extremely popular perfumes from the famous Coco Chanel. Despite the impressive high cost ($ 1850 per bottle - 55500), every 30 seconds a bottle of this truly legendary perfume is sold somewhere in the world.

5. Baccarats Les Larmes Sacress de Thebe This is a very rare perfume that is hard to find and buy. The composition of the fragrance includes myrrh and frankincense. The bottle is made of baccarat crystal in the shape of a pyramid. Perfume costs about $1,700 (51,000 rubles)

6. Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien This perfume appeared in perfume shops in 1996. The author of the perfume is Annick Goutal, a famous perfumer and pianist. The composition of the fragrance includes bergamot, grapefruit, mint, mandarin, Sicilian lemon and cypress. A bottle of such perfume costs $1,500 (45,000 rubles).

7. Hermes This perfume got its name from the address where the legendary house of Hermes was located, whose perfume is always on the list of the 10 most expensive perfumes in the world. The composition of the fragrance includes orange tree, iris, roses and other floral motifs. Perfume was released in limited quantities, they could be bought at a price of $ 1,500 per bottle. The bottle itself, created by St.Louis, is made of the highest quality crystal.

8. Shalini Parfums Shalini This perfume has a very sensual scent. Perfume Shalini is designed for the modern bold and independent woman. Perfume is available in limited quantities, one bottle costs about $ 900 (27,000 rubles). The composition of the fragrance includes coriander, ylang-ylang, vanilla, musk, sandalwood and tuberose.

9. Joy This is a classic, timeless fragrance that suits flamboyant women. The first Joy perfume bottles went on sale in 1930. The author of the perfume is the world-famous perfumer Jean Pato, who had to spend 336 roses and 10,000 jasmine flowers to create 30 ml of perfume. A bottle of such perfume will cost you $ 800 (24,000 rubles). By the way, the bottle itself is made of the famous "baccarat" crystal.

10. Jar Parfums Bolt of Lightning This perfume has a rare, truly unique, highly lasting scent that penetrates the skin and lingers for days. This is the perfect summer perfume, which costs $ 765 (23,000 rubles). People who know a lot about perfume believe that these perfumes are worth the money that they pay for them. It is believed that such perfumes should be used on special occasions. The name Jar comes from the initials of the famous jeweler Joel Rosenthal, who is the author of both the perfume itself and the bottle.

A bit of history... According to legend, the first bottle of fragrant liquid was given to the Greek ferryman Phaon, who was as ugly as Quasimodo, Aphrodite. Magic water completely changed the life of an ugly man who never dreamed of the attention of women. Using perfume, Phaon managed to win the heart of the beautiful and brilliant Sappho.

The word "perfumery" is of relatively recent origin; it is found no earlier than the first third of the 16th century. Before that, the words "balms", "incense" were usually used. The root "fumus" was borrowed from Latin - smoking, soaring. The very concept of "perfumery" literally means the aromatization of air by pressure. This name was born in ancient times - then, to obtain aroma, fragrant products were heated on hot coals. And if at first only the gods were honored with fragrant smoke, then after a while people also succumbed to the temptation to possess the divine smell. In those days, incense was valued more than slaves and gold. And to receive fragrant resins as a gift was considered the greatest of honors.

Perfume in the modern sense of the word appeared in the 11th century, when the crusaders brought jasmine and roses from Jerusalem to the south of France, to Grasse. And they were prepared by Avicenna, the famous Arab thinker and physician. It was he who guessed to mix aromatic oils and dissolve them in alcohol. For a long time, perfumery was considered something akin to black magic and was condemned by the church. Mystical properties were attributed to spirits: people believed that they were able to prolong youth and preserve beauty. The first perfume EAU DE HONGARIE - "Water of the Hungarian Queen". A hermit monk created them in 1367 for Queen Elizabeth of Hungary by mixing rose water, alcohol and rosemary oil. And the fragrant 60-year-old queen charmed the Polish king Casimir, who was younger and had an amazing selection of young ladies.

Applying perfume There are different opinions on the question of where it is best to apply perfume. Estee Lauder advises: "Gourmet perfume drip on those parts of the body that are in motion: on the inner crook of the elbow, the back of the knee, wrist, palm - and you will bring joy to everyone around." Beverly Sassoon says: "I put a drop of perfume on the curve of the upper part of the cheekbone (where the pulse is felt) and behind the ears, on the wrist and on the elbow, and on the knees. Perfume, toilet water, fragrant oil, any other means, use immediately after the bath, when the body is still warm and moist. The scent will last better and last longer." In Catherine Deneuve, as she said, “Hair, the back of the head, the body under the clothes” are perfumed. In many nations, for example, in Polynesia and Africa, it is customary to strangle hair.

Proper storage of perfumes Perfumes are very poorly stored, so if they are rarely used or like to alternate perfumes of different brands, you should not buy large bottles. Perfume should be kept tightly closed and out of direct sunlight. It's good to keep the bottle in the box. The warmer the room, the more light falls on the bottle and the less liquid remains in it, the faster it deteriorates. In a cool and dark place or in a protective box, most perfumes stay fresh for six months or even longer. In a very warm place, they can spoil in a few weeks or even a few days. The best place to store perfume is the refrigerator.

Three notes of perfume... Perfume is something alive. When the bottle is opened, each fragrance begins to play its own unique melody, in which three main notes stand out: Top note. Perfume will slightly turn your head, but this note is fleeting - after 15 minutes. volatile components evaporate. For the purity of the sound of this note, aromas of fruits, berries and flowers are used. Middle note. It has a rich floral, spicy or woody aroma. This note is the heart of spirits. Its duration is approximately 2 hours. bottom note. This note reveals the aromas of musk, patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood. It is the bottom note that defines your perfume. If it merges with the smell of the body - this is your fragrance, if not, then it is better to choose other perfumes.

Classification of aromas Floral. Floral oils play a major role in the creation of such fragrances. Jasmine, honeysuckle, rose, heliotrope, hawthorn. I remember spring, first love and sweet kisses with a hint of fruit. Chypre. A sea of ​​citrus freshness, flowers, herbs, fruits, and finally some woody notes, a noble moss accord, patchouli or musk. In a word - high relations! Oriental. Alluring amber, tart, fruity, floral aromas. An obligatory component is ambergris or other substances of animal origin, and to them - citrus fruits, vanilla, cloves, cinnamon. Marine. Clear water, brackish wind, stars reflected in the ocean. Everything to feel the coolness of the waves: mint, green lilac, water jasmine, water lily, freesia, mango. This is what purity and sincerity smell like.

How to determine the smell by the color of the bottle? Sunny golden - promises a floral scent; it uplifts the mood and reminds of summer. Transparent - suggests something light, like the flapping of a butterfly's wings or the breath of a breeze. Red - rich, sweet, oriental aroma; Blue - seduces with a smell, melting peace and tenderness. Lots of air and water. Green is associated with natural freshness. Tree leaves, grass, young cucumbers. Spring mood. Black - emphasizes the sensuality and intensity of the fragrance. For mysterious natures.

So what scents do men find seductive? 1. Delicious. All men are a little sweet, so choose “delicious” flavors: vanilla, fruits, spices. 2. Natural aphrodisiacs What is found in nature and attracts individuals of the opposite sex, affects men too! Therefore, pay attention to perfumes with musk, amber, strawberries, etc.

Aromas of the zodiac signs Aries. Amber, rose, sandalwood, jasmine, poppy, patchouli. Taurus. Lavender, lotus, bergamot, rose. Twins. Sandalwood, rose, violet, pine, strawberry. Cancer. Jasmine, sandalwood, poppy, rose, lotus, amber. A lion. Rose, frankincense, amber, patchouli, jasmine, coconut. Virgo. Myrrh, patchouli, rose, strawberry. Scales. Rose, lavender, sandalwood, jasmine, pine. Scorpion. Lavender, rose, patchouli, amber, jasmine. Sagittarius. Lavender, rose, patchouli, amber, jasmine. Capricorn. Sandalwood, rose, lotus, jasmine, amber, pine. Aquarius. Lemon, patchouli, amber, strawberry, sandalwood, lotus, rose. Fishes. Cedar, lotus, lavender, violet, poppy, sandalwood, rose.

Smell according to hair color Strong oriental scents are suitable for dark-haired people: tansy, patchouli, heliotrope, etc. Aromas of flowers, tart sobering smells mixed with amber, lily of the valley, Parma violet are suitable for blondes. Any exotic compositions are suitable for redheads - southern eccentric smells: jasmine, orange or lemon flowers, etc.

They try to comprehend the mystical essence of aromas at all times. For more than one century, people have been striving to keep the smells of flowers and herbs, trees and animals, the ocean in a bottle. The magic of fragrance is surrounded by passions and legends. People are overcome by a variety of feelings when they inhale these smells: joy, sadness, passion, love and, of course, kindness. The fragrance hides many secrets, it combines the smallest particles of amber, musk, delicate particles of fresh grass and cool sea water or sweet notes of lily. Perfume is a means of seduction, a sign of good taste and well-being, a touch that completes your image. Those who create perfumes can rightly be called real wizards. Indeed, in the world there are more than 35 thousand substances from which perfumes can be created, but only a magician can combine all this and get live aromas that open with every note.

So let's feel like magicians and create our new perfume!!!

Lab Work Making Homemade Perfume

Work progress… Decide on your perfume composition, draw up a perfume map Place all the components used in a test tube, add a few ml of water and heat to a boil. After cooling the resulting extract, filter it. Dilute the resulting perfume concentrate with ethyl alcohol. Put the received perfume into the bottle until ripening

History of perfumery Completed by a student of the 1st year of the group W - 103 specialty 230115 "Programming in computer systems" Osipov Ruslan Valerievich Project manager Lecturer Abdullaeva L.A.

Introduction Perfumery has taken control so much even at the psychological level of a person that a person, according to research by scientists and even from personal experience, who has not perfumed, feels awkward and insecure, especially when communicating with an interlocutor. His freedom of speech, the expression of thoughts and the uncomfortability of the whole situation in real time are deteriorating. The aroma of perfume makes a person much more self-confident, this aroma makes a person happy, and allows a person to partially immerse himself in the world of weightlessness. Perfumes have conquered humanity so strongly, piercing the vulnerable soul of a person, and leaving behind no small dependence.

Perfume in our world has become a rule of etiquette and hygiene, but has anyone thought about how and when it was formed? Perfumery - partially gives a person control over himself, but at the same time, with its shortage, violates his mind. About this and much more, you will learn from this presentation entitled: "History of perfumery" 1 2 3

Ancient Egypt Many believe that perfumery comes from France, but this is far from the case, all the roots go much further and ancient. Although the word "perfume" is a French word, it is written in Latin as "perfumum" and had the meaning and translation as "for smoke", but sometimes in literature, in the roots of these words, they give a literal translation as "through smoke", this as I suppose to refer to one moment in the history of the origin of perfumes.

The beginning of the development of perfumer manufacturing technology arose as early as 2900 BC in Egypt, when the burial rites of the dead took place. Accordingly, you know that the ceremony was called "mummification." The Egyptians believed that the body and soul of the deceased would gain peace when, and only when, his body was immured in a stone sarcophagus, and when this same sarcophagus was opened in the kingdom of the dead.

The Egyptians believed that while the deceased person is on earth, waiting for his burial, while they prepare everything for this condition, evil spirits can harm him, it could also be the dead enemies of the deceased. They tried to protect the body, thus putting on it the armor of a warrior, equipping it with everything necessary that was used when used in battle, these are spears, swords, knives and daggers.

But before them, also lay not an easy task, to protect the soul of the deceased. They approached this very logically. During the ceremony, the Egyptians kindled a fire, after which, waiting for the fire to burn down to red-hot stones and coals, they threw all kinds of herbs and leaves on it, after which they received an unusual and unique smell of smoke. Above this smoke, they respectively carried the body of the deceased, until such time as he was saturated with this smoke. So they also protected the dead body from evil spirits, giving it a fragrant protective shell. After some time, this modified rite was given the name Per Fumum, which means "through the smoke." Another name has been given to this method as "fumigation".

The development of perfumery It can be said that the use of a simple but effective technology to extract a pleasant aroma, plus the belief of protection from evil spirits, has already begun to be used on a grand scale. In temples, in houses, in baths, which can even be found even now (especially baths), the introduction of the use of this technology began as a standard for cleansing from unpleasant odors in rooms and cleansing. The Egyptians developed this technique, and other civilizations began to use it too. This was already the next stage in the development of perfumery, so there were already innovations, and new methods, and the essence remained the same, but gradually the second significance of protection was already forgotten. Protection has already led to new forms, such as protection against unpleasant odors. 1 2 3

The first professional perfumers can be called the ancient Egyptian priests, since only they at that time knew the secrets of preparing aromatic compositions. The perfumes and cosmetics used by Egyptian beauties to enhance the impression of their beauty were, if not as exquisite as the drugs of modern fashionistas, then, in any case, just as numerous. The passion for incense and cosmetics in ancient Egypt was constantly increasing and reached its highest point during the reign of Cleopatra. This queen used incense in large quantities and she herself was the author of many of them. In the eyes of sophisticated Egyptians, the disdainful attitude to the aroma of one's own body looked like a manifestation of rudeness and barbarism.

The Jews, the oldest of the modern peoples, for a long time, being in slavery in a country of high civilization, such as Egypt of that era, adopted all the cultural achievements of their conquerors. Among the many arts they transferred from Egypt to their country was the art of perfumery. In ancient Greece, along with aromatic resins used for sacrifices, oil-based perfumes with the smell of various flowers were widespread, among which rose was in the first place. Even the cynic Diogenes did not neglect incense and used them from time to time, although he considered the bath unnecessary. True, for reasons of economy, he applied incense to his feet, reasonably explaining: “When you anoint your head with perfume, the smell rises, and only birds enjoy it, but I rub my lower parts with them, and the smell, rising, envelops my body and reaches the nose. Those who were engaged in the preparation of incense - and these were mostly women - the ancient Greeks considered sorcerers. The names of some generally recognized spirits were given in honor of their creators.

As you can see, the usual perfumes for us were formed in antiquity, from generation to generation, each civilization added its contribution to the development of these bottles, and so, this technology has come down to our days.