Lesson summary "technological sequence for making a straight skirt." Securing the allowance for splines. Curly semicircular last

01.10.2019

TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF SKIRT PROCESSING

Initial processing of skirt parts

Initial processing will include the processing of darts, folds, joining parts with yokes, overcasting cuts of parts, etc.

Skirts can be made with a lining to prevent the back panel from pulling out. In the lining of the skirt, darts are initially grinded (darts can be replaced with soft folds), the side sections are grinded and overcast. In the left side seam, the lining is overcast and the edges are sewn under the fastener. The bottom of the lining is processed with a hem seam with a closed cut.

The processed lining is inserted into the skirt in which the fastener is processed, the darts and notches are combined, the upper sections are leveled and connected on a stitching machine at a distance of 5 mm from the upper sections.

Closure processing in skirts

Fasteners in skirts are located on the front, back panel or in the left side seam, fold.

The most common zipper closure is processed in two ways: at the same distance on both sides of the side seam line and at different distances. The links of the zipper when joining should be hidden under the seam allowances. The fastener processing is performed with stitched, overcast, ironed side seams and with ironed fastener cuts.

Processing of a zipper when fastened at the same distance from the folds. When stitching a zipper on a single-needle machine with a special foot, the stitching is placed no distance of 4-7 mm from the edge of the fastener, depending on the size of the links. At the end of the zipper, the line is laid perpendicular to the cut at a distance of 1-5 mm from the end of the zipper links or at an angle (Figure 17.15, a).

Processing of a zipper when fastening it with an offset of the links under front panel of skirt... Under the ironed fold of the back panel of the skirt, put the right side of the woven tape of the zipper and open it so that the fold of the zipper allowance is located end-to-end to the zipper links, and the lock is at a distance of 15 mm from the upper edge of the skirt. After securing the right side with pins, the zipper is closed, the fold of the fastener allowance from the side of the front panel is brought end-to-end to the fold of the fastener allowance from the side of the back panel of the skirt and cleaved with three or four pins in the transverse direction, securing the front panel and the zipper. When chipping, the upper cuts of the front and rear panels of the skirt are equalized and a single line of the side seam is created. Then the zipper is opened and the parallelism of the links relative to the fold is specified from the seamy side.

Sewing is performed from the front side in one step from the upper cut of the front panel to the upper cut of the rear panel. The front part of the zipper is fixed at a distance of 8-10 mm. On the rear panel of the skirt, the line is laid at a distance of 2 mm from the fold.

Rice. 17.15- Processing of zipper on skirts

Zipper finish with full link closure. A feature of processing such a fastener is to secure the zipper with an offset under the front, put the links of the right side of the woven tape (3-5 mm relative to the side seam line). The allowances of the side cuts in the fastener area are increased to 10-35 mm. When ironing out the side seams, iron only the cut of the fastener of the front panel along the line of the side seam. The slice of the back panel fastener is bent to the side of the wrong side, releasing an allowance relative to the side seam line by 3-5 mm, and ironed. Under the fold, put the right side of the woven tape of the zipper in the open form so that the fold fits butt to the links.

The right side of the woven zipper tape is stitched at a distance of 2 mm from the fold, ensuring free movement of the zipper lock. The zipper is closed, and the ironed fold of the zipper allowance to the front panel of the skirt is brought to the side seam line, equalizing the top cuts and cleaving them with pins.

Sew the left side of the woven tape along the front side of the front panel from above. Finish with a double - triple transverse stitching perpendicular to the side seam line or at an angle to it (Figure 17.15.c). For the stability of the fastener and to improve the appearance along the fold of its front part, a finishing line is made at a distance of 2 mm from the edge.

Processing the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt

The belt can be one-piece with a girdle or a detachable one with a seam along the fold line. In length, it can consist of two parts: with a seam at the level of the side seam or under the belt loops. The ends of the belt usually overlap one by one by 30-60 mm and are fastened with a welt loop and button or a metal hook and loop. An allowance for fastening can be added to each or one of the ends of the belt. The belt is made with a lining of adhesive or non-adhesive fabric, as well as without a lining.

Before joining the skirt with the belt, the upper cut of the skirt is cut, the length and width of the belt are specified.

On the wrong side of the inner part of the belt, a non-adhesive gasket is applied and stitched along the length at a distance of 2-5 mm from the fold (middle) of the belt. The bottom cut of the gasket is aligned with the bottom cut of the belt when a thin non-adhesive gasket is used. When using a compacted non-adhesive or adhesive gasket, the lower cut of the gasket should not reach 10 mm to the cut of the inner part of the belt.

The belt is bent in the middle along the fold with the front side inward, equalizing the cuts and aligning the control marks. The ends of the belt are grinded and grinded from the side of the gasket. The seam allowances are cut in the corners, leaving 3-4 mm. The belt is turned onto the front side, straightened and the ends are swept out on a special machine.

After ironing, the belt is connected to the upper cut of the skirt. The inner part of the belt is applied to the wrong side of the skirt, equalizing the cuts and control marks, and stitching along the belt with a seam 10 mm wide, while placing the hanger at the level of the side seams. The belt is unscrewed, the seam is bent towards the belt, the lower section of the belt is folded inward and stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge so that the edge covers the seam for grinding the inner part of the belt (Figure 17.16, a). The belt is ready-made when ironing.

In products made of thick fabrics and knitted fabrics, the cut of the inner part of the belt is pre-swept. The belt is sewn to the skirt, equalizing

front sides on the outside of the belt. The belt is folded back to the wrong side and stitched onto the skirt in the stitching seam, securing the inside of the belt (Fig. 17.16.6).

When processing the top of the skirt with a belt, a trademark is attached to the inside of the belt at the left side of the fastener. Next to the trademark of the enterprise, a tag is attached with a recommendation of possible methods

dry cleaning and wet heat treatment.

Figure 17.17 - Processing the upper cut of the skirt with a belt

When processing a skirt on a single-needle machine with a special device, the belt parts are grinded and wound onto a cassette. The belt from the cassette is tucked into

The guide is fed under the foot with folded cuts between which the upper cut of the skirt is inserted and grinded. In this case, the line is not brought to the ends of the belt by 30-40mm. The ends of the belt are overlaid without a device, bending the sections inward (Figure 17.16, c).

When processing on a two-needle machine with a device, the sections of the outer and inner parts of the belt are bent (Fig. 17.16, d).

Variants of processing the upper edge of the skirt with a corsage tape with a hook fastener (Fig. 17.18, a) or a stitched belt with a zipper (Fig. 17.19, b).

a b

Figure 18.19 - Processing the upper edges of the skirt

Processing the lower edge of the skirt

The bottom of the skirt, depending on the model and properties of the fabric, can be processed in various ways: with a hem seam with a closed cut (Fig. 17.17, a), a hem seam with an open hemmed cut (Fig. 17.17.6), edged (Fig. 17.17, c) ...

The bottom of the skirt is preliminarily specified according to the pattern and the bottom fold line is applied. Then the lower section of the skirt is hemmed.

Figure 17.17 - Processing the bottom of the skirt

Finishing the skirt

Depending on model 01, loops are marked on the skirt and overcast on the belt and trimming details. 11ersd by wet heat treatment remove stitch threads, clean off traces of chalk and clean from industrial dust. The pleats of the skirt are fastened at a distance of 10 mm from the bottom.

Wet-heat treatment of the skirt is carried out through a moistened ironing pad from the inside of the skirt, starting with ironing the belt. Then the skirt panel is ironed, starting from the left side seam, without capturing the bottom of the product. And in the process of wet-heat treatment, the product is ironed under the allowances of the darts, the seams of the folds for taking prints. You turn the skirt to the front side and fold out the bottom edge to the rmbopiosh mu. The upper edge is folded to the side and the bottom is ironed on with a gradual movement of the product. Weasels are removed from the front side of the skirt and the skirt is steamed. Then buttons and other accessories are sewn on.

Technical description of the model.

Straight skirt made of one-colored suiting fabric.

On the front panel there are darts and finishing elements along the bottom.

On the back panel there are darts, the middle seam, at the bottom of which a slot is made. The zipper is made in the middle seam at the top with a button.

The upper cut is trimmed with a facing.

Bottom - hem seam with open cut and topstitching with finishing stitching.

Technological sequence for processing

vents on the skirt

The name of the operation	Speciality	Discharge	Equipment
Outline location			patterns, chalk
Duplicate spline allowances			UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky
Overcast the cuts in the middle of the rear panels			51 class, PO "Promshveimash", Podolsk
Sew the middle cut of the back panels			1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus
Cut the allowance at the top of the right side of the spline
Press the middle seam open			UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky
Iron the right allowance of the splines on the gasket			UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky
Overcast the corner of the splines along the line-edge			1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus
Trim seam allowance
Align the corner of the right side
Sweep the bottom of the product			needle, thimble
Press on bottom and spline			UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky
Stitch along the edge			1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus
Overedge left corner of splines			1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus
Carve out excess seam
Align left corner
Sweep the left edge of the slots and the bottom completely			needle, thimble
Iron the left corner and bottom of the product			UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky
Place a finishing stitch along the bottom and secure the slot with finishing stitching at an angle of 450 to the centerline of the seam			1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus

Technological operational card

for processing the slots in the skirt

Operation: processing vents in the skirt
Specialty R M U Discharge 1.3 1.2 1.2 Time rate, from 2400	Equipment: 1022 cells, JSC "Orsha", Belarus, 51 cells, PO "Promshveimash", Podolsk, UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky, scissors, needle, thimble, pattern, chalk
Material: suit one-colored	The temperature of the ironing surface is 140 0 С, the "Ideal" threads are 50-80, the frequency is 2.5 stitches per 1 cm.
Performance requirements	Processing scheme
Check the cut details: The back half with a middle seam - 2 pieces, cut out with an allowance for a slot wide. 4-5cm, the length is equal to the length of the slots plus 1.0-1.5cm. Adhesive gasket 2 pcs. The cuts of the rear panel are swept over. Mark the slot. On the left side, the edge line should be a continuation of the middle seam. On the right line of the cut, the slots pass at a distance of 0.7-1.5 cm from the cut. The allowances are duplicated, the left side is 0.1-0.2 cm from the bend of the spline and the bottom line, the right side, so that the cut of the gasket does not reach the side cut by 0.7-1.5 cm, to the bottom line 0.1-0, 2 cm and overlapping the middle seam line by 1.5-2.0 cm
The details of the rear halves are folded face inward, equalizing the cuts, grind the middle seam and the upper allowance of the slots by 0.7-1.5 not reaching the side cut, the width of the seam is 1.0-1.5 cm of the upper allowance. An allowance is cut at the top of the right side of the slots before reaching the line of 0.1 cm. The middle seam is ironed out through a damp iron.
The right side is processed: ironed 0.5 cm per gasket. The corner is grinded, the allowances and excess are cut off. Turn out and cover up the bottom of the skirt, iron it on. Along the edge of the 0 slots, a line is laid 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge.
Having processed the left corner, grinding it at an angle of 450 to the bottom line, sweep the edge of the slots and the bottom of the skirt. Iron through a wet iron until moisture is completely removed. A finishing line is laid along the bottom of the product and securing at an angle of 450 to the middle seam, stitching, starting from the middle seam, and finishing, not reaching 1.0-1.5 cm to the lateral allowances of the slots.

PROCESSING OF THE CUT OF A STRAIGHT SKIRT.

Curly bartacks have a functional and decorative purpose. They are embroidered with finishing threads on the front side of the product at the ends of pockets, slots or folds, add extra strength to these knots, hide material defects and are an effective design element. Similar functions are performed by triangular (other forms are possible) fasteners cut from leather, suede and similar materials, which are adjusted to the product from the front side.

FIGURE CLIP SIMPLE

Mark the bartack with three lines in an equilateral triangle.

It is advisable to lay a machine stitch or a line of small manual straight stitches along the contour of the bartack.

You should start from the lower left corner of the triangle, fasten the end of the thread on the wrong side and bring the needle out to the front side of the left corner (point 1 in Figure 01).

Then in the upper corner, sew a very short stitch from right to left (points 2 and 3), pull the thread to the right side.

Stick the needle into the lower right corner (point 4) and sew a stitch from the wrong side, bring the thread out in the left corner just before the first needle puncture (point 5 in Fig. 02).

Perform bartack in accordance with the diagram shown until the triangle is completely filled with stitches.

A ready-made curly simple bartack should have the shape of an equilateral triangle (fig. 04). The stitches must not be tightened, otherwise the bartack will take on a star shape.

DIFFICULT FIGURE CLIP

Mark the bartack with three lines in an equilateral triangle. Machine stitch or small straight hand stitch along the bartack contour.

Bartack in accordance with fig. 05 and 06.

In fig. 07 shows a complex curly bartack in finished form.

FIXING THE SPLINE FROM THE WAYSIDE

To prevent product damage during operation

you can fix the beginning of the slots from the seamy side. To do this, a square is cut out of the lining or top fabric, the length of each side of which is approximately 6 cm. Fold the cut out part diagonally in the form of a triangle. Iron on, sweep the cuts. The hypotenuse of the resulting triangle has the necessary elasticity, this will avoid tearing the material when the spline is strongly stretched. Sew a triangle from the seamy side of the skirt, stitching along the edge of the slot when finished. Hem the triangle allowances to the slot allowances with blind stitches.

It seems to an uninitiated person that it is not difficult to sew a skirt. In reality, this is far from the case.

After all, the beauty of even the simplest cut of a skirt is that it fits well on the figure. And for this it must be perfectly worked out.

FABRICS

The fabrics for skirts are very different: from cotton to woolen.

Naturally, it is better to use cotton fabrics for summer skirts. They are hygroscopic, wash well, but, however, they wrinkle a lot.

Therefore, we recommend to sew skirts intended for work from cotton or linen fabrics containing artificial fibers.

Such fabrics wrinkle less and retain their shape well. Silk fabrics, both natural and synthetic, due to the fact that they are flexible and well draped, are most often used in smart clothes, "sun" and "half sun" skirts, and frilled skirts. And, finally, woolen fabrics are indispensable if you are planning to sew a classic skirt. But in this case, it is better to prefer semi-woolen fabrics with the addition of synthetic fibers. The skirt will

much more practical: it will keep its shape longer, will not wrinkle, and will require less maintenance. However, keep in mind that with a high percentage of added synthetic fibers, the fabrics become unnecessarily stiff, and this is for women

skirts are completely undesirable.

For thick woolen fabrics, the sewing frequency should be 4-5 stitches per 1 cm, and the following threads and needles should be used:

Cotton thread for sewing - No. 40 and 50,

Silk threads for finishing stitches - No. 33A,

Machine needles - No. 90-100.

Remember to match the color of the thread to the fabric.

FOLDING

So that the folds on the skirt are clearly fixed and not displaced during wear, grind them off, be sure to secure them from the seamy side with a line located across the allowance, thereby securing the entire width of the fold. This must be done both with one-sided (1) and with opposite folds (2), and in both directions.

If the allowance for the fold does not extend along the entire length of the part, then lay the securing stitch from the front side, after carefully sweeping and ironing the fold (3).

POCKETS

Most often, we are accustomed to seeing inner pockets in seams and inner pockets with cut-off side parts on skirts. The former were described in detail in the previous article, when it was a question of dress processing.

This time we will show you how to make inner pockets with detachable side parts. The pattern of the side pieces is usually done in one piece with the bottom burlap. Accordingly, she should cut out the top burlap.

On the front panel of the skirt, grind the cut of the entrance to the pocket with burlap (seam No. 2), folding it and the main part with the right sides inward (4).

Slightly press the seam and, turning the sackcloth to the wrong side of the skirt, sweep, releasing a 1 mm piping from the side of the skirt, then iron and stitch to the width provided by the model. Now take the side part, one-piece with the bottom burlap, put the front panel with the sewn top burlap on it, aligning the entrances to the pocket, and baste. Level the burlap cuts, grind them together and overcast (5). Along the edges of the entrance to the pocket, make bartacks, stitching the main panel on the side by 2-3 cm on each side, the ends

fasten the stitches. The pocket is ready.

On skirts of the "sun" cut, pockets are often processed "in a frame", but the technology of their processing is no different from the processing of such pockets on a dress, only the shape of the burlap changes. Cut the burlap so that it is convenient to hold in

pocket of the hand, in other words, bringing the shape of the burlap closer to the shape of the palm.

After darts, folds and pockets have been processed, the side seams can be sewn. Use seam number 1 for this - the allowances are usually ironed towards the front panel. But if the fabric is dense, then first press the seams "on the edge", and then

iron it out. If the skirt has internal pockets with cut-off side parts, it is best to press the side seam allowances towards the back to avoid excess thickness. In skirts of a cut, the seams are ironed differently: from the belt to the beginning of flaring, the seams are ironed or ironed out, as usual. The lower part of the seam is ironed “on the edge”. In this case, the wedges fall gently and look very beautiful.

SLOTS AND SECTIONS

Very often, the seams of skirts end with slots or cuts. Let's start with a simpler one - cuts.

To process a short cut (5-15 cm), which is a continuation of the seam, seam allowances that are common in width are sufficient, while at the same time grind the lower corners with a hem allowance (6).

In order to process a long cut (over 15-20 cm), you should worry about wider seam allowances (4-5 cm) even when cutting the skirt. Press the allowances along the cut. Sew the bottom corners with the hem hem (7). A horizontal reinforcement stitch (8) is recommended at the top of the cut.

To process the splines when cutting, it is also necessary to leave allowances 4-5 cm wide. Process the upper side of the splines with a one-piece allowance, bending it along the line of the continuation of the seam, and iron it. Overstitch the allowance on the underside of the splines with a strip of the main fabric or lining fabric (9). Slot the bottom corners with a hem allowance (similar to cutting the corners of the cut). From the right side, insert a reinforcement stitch by the width of the allowance (10).

ZIPPER

The fastener is processed after stitching darts, folds and seams. Usually it is done in the left side seam or in the middle seam of the back panel.

Press the edges of the fastener along the seam continuation lines and stitch with the zipper in one of two ways.

First, the lines are placed at a distance of 0.5 cm from the folds (11). And the second - the zipper is shifted and the back panel of the skirt is stitched with a zipper to the edge, placing the fold near the teeth, and the front one - at a distance of 1 cm from the fold (12).

PROCESSING THE UPPER CUT OF THE SKIRT

The upper section of the skirt can be trimmed with a belt or bodice. Duplicate the part of the belt that, after grinding, will turn out to be its outer side, from the inside out, duplicate with a gasket.

In skirts made of thin fabrics, first grind the belt from the wrong side, leaving a margin for the fastener (13). Sew two braid hangers into the same seam, placing them on the sides. Then, after turning the ends, bend the belt to the front of the skirt, fold the free cut by 0.7 cm and stitch to the edge, closing the stitching seam (14). At the end of the belt from the side of the front panel of the skirt, sew

loop, and on the ledge of the stock for the fastener from the side of the back panel, sew a button corresponding to the loop.

In skirts made of dense fabrics and in skirts with lining, it is recommended to grind the belt with an open cut to reduce the thickness. Pay attention - the belt is grinded after the lining has been swept. First, sew the belt to the skirt from the front side, folding the details with the right sides inward. Then bend the belt along the line

fold to the wrong side of the skirt, baste without skewing the fabric, and stitch to the edge from the front side, thereby securing its inner

part. Don't forget to sew in the hangers. The free cut of the belt must first be swept (15).

Above the darts or skirt pockets, you can stitch belt loops processed with seams No. 15 and No. 16. Place one end of the belt loops into the seam of the belt attaching, fold the other by 0.7 cm and stitch on the upper edge of the belt.

When processing the upper cut of the skirt with a corsage tape, first it is sewn onto the wrong side of the skirt at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the tape and 0.7 cm from the edge of the skirt (16). Two hangers are also put into the seam of the stitching of the tape, placing them on the sides. Then fold the bodice tape to the right side and stitch to the edge of the skirt, closing the stitching seam (17). Thread the ends of the tape inward and stitch or

sew by hand. After that, bend the braid to the wrong side of the skirt and press it on. On the right side, sew a stitch, stepping back from the top edge of 0.5-1.5 cm, depending on the model (18).

BOTTOM BELT

Depending on the fabric and cut, the hem of the skirt can be hemmed in different ways.

The bottom of skirts made of cotton fabrics is processed with seam No. 4 - hem with a closed cut, the hem width in straight skirts is 4 cm, in flared skirts - 3 cm.

The bottom of woolen skirts is hemmed with seam No. 10, the hem width remains the same.

We recommend hemming the bottom of “sun” or “half-sun” skirts, strongly flared skirts on the machine with a double hemmed seam (seam No. 14) or with an open hem seam with its preliminary overcasting (seam No. 7), stitch width

1 cm (19). If you are sewing a pleated or pleated skirt, the bottom of the skirt must be hemmed before handing over the cut fabric to the atelier. Otherwise, it will be difficult to iron the folds along the bottom later.

LINING

The lining of the skirt is cut according to the details of the main pattern. If the skirt is pleated, when cutting the lining, the folds should be “closed”, that is, laid, and the excess fabric at the waist should be removed into the darts.

At the bottom, the lining should be 2-3 cm shorter than the skirt.

If there are no slots and cuts on the skirt, cuts are left on the lining in the side seams (15-20 cm long) to ensure freedom of step. If there are slots or cuts on the skirt according to the model, then the cuts on the lining should correspond to them.

After all the darts and seams of the lining have been sewn, baste it to the top edge of the skirt, folding the skirt and lining with the wrong sides inward.

Only then proceed to the processing of the belt. In the place of the cut of the skirt, the lining is sewn by hand or by machine to the allowances (20).

In a skirt with a slot, when cutting the lining, provide a seam that should coincide with the seam allowance line (21). Sew the lining along the seam extension to the slot allowances (22).

There is also an easier way. Cut the lining without additional seams, and in the place of the cut or slots, cut an arched section of the fabric to the height of the slot or cut. Neaten the edges of the cutout (its width is 4-5 cm), bend it by 0.5 cm on the wrong side -

fold and stitch (23). There is no need to attach the lining to the cut - it will not be visible when walking. This is a very simple and convenient type of processing.

Now it remains to iron the skirt.

Winter has not yet subsided, but we are already thinking about the upcoming warm sunny days of spring and summer. And fashion is always one step ahead of the current season.
If we take a look at the collections of the leading design houses, it becomes clear that this spring and summer we have a large selection of different styles. Mini skirts go side by side with midi skirts, different styles, textures, colors and details of the skirts will allow you to choose a model to your taste.
A skirt is perhaps the most versatile and practical option for updating your wardrobe, and in combination with fashionable jewelry, you can achieve chic and uniqueness.
Below are very interesting and practical options for skirts patterns: patterns for straight skirts, patterns for "Gode" skirts, patterns for "Sun" skirts, patterns for straight skirts with a detachable cape, patterns for wrap-around skirts, patterns for skirts with a chilli frill, patterns for undercut and draped skirts etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.
Blade skirt
A skirt made of several wedges (made from an even number - 4, 6, 8+ 12) belongs to the classic style skirts and is popular with the younger and middle age category of women. Due to the cuts made between the wedges, the effect of a free and flying skirt is created, therefore it is advisable to sew it from a light, soft fabric, preferably with a one-sided pattern. Suitable for wearing in the spring and summer season and will be in place both on weekdays and on special occasions.

To calculate and build a drawing of a skirt with circular warehouses, the following data are required: Cr = 38 cm, C b = 52 cm, Du = 60 cm, Pt = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

Skirts of several wedges are cut out according to the pattern of a previously drawn wedge, or the wedges are drawn immediately on the fabric. The calculation and cutting of wedges, despite their number, are done according to the same principle. Consider the construction of a pattern drawing for a six-seam skirt.

1. We calculate the width of the wedge along the waist line according to the formula St / 0.5 of the number of wedges. The width of the wedge at the waist is 38/3 = 12.7 cm.

2. Calculate the width of the wedge along the hip line using the formula (Sat + Pb) / 0.5 number of wedges.

In our case, the width of the wedge along the thigh line is (52 + 2) / 3 = 18 cm.

3. We build a right angle with point T.

4. From point T downwards we put aside 18 cm, put point B.

5. Through point B we draw a horizontal line 5, a straight line - the line of the hips.

6. From the point T downwards we put aside the value of the grass length of the skirt. We get point H, through which we also draw a horizontal line.

7. From point T to the left and to the right, we postpone the values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the waistline T T1 = T T2 = the width of the wedge along the waistline / 2 = 12.7 / 2 = 6.4 cm.

8. From point B to the left and to the right we set aside the Values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the line of the hips

BB 1 = BB2 = wedge width along the thigh line / 2 = 18/2 = 9 cm.

9. From point H to the left and to the right, set aside a value equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line HH1 = HH2 = BB 1 = BB2 = 9 cm.

10. Connect points T 1, B1 and H1 and T2, B2 and H2. Thus, the base of the wedge passes through the points Т1Б1Н1НН2Б2Т2ГТ 1.

To make the wedge more flared, you can, connecting points T1 with B1 and T2 with B 2, continue straight to the bottom line.

11. From the point T downward we set aside 1 cm (this value can vary from 0.3 to 1 cm, depending on the width of the wedge below and on the thickness of the fabric) and set the point T3

12. We measure the distance between points T3 and H and put the resulting value from point T1 down and from point T 2 down, respectively. We get points H3 and H 4.

13. We form the line of the wedge, as shown in Fig. 156.

The contours of the wedge variety pass through the points T1B1N3N1NN2N4B2T2T3T1.

Rice. 156. Drawing of a wedge pattern on a skirt-blade

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep the wedges, grind with a seam of 1.5-2 cm. Remove the basting, press the seams, leaving one seam unstitched 16-18 cm to the waist line.

2. Sew in zipper, sew in, remove basting, iron on

3. Process the upper cut with a belt or corsage tape,

4. Align the bottom of the skirt during fitting.

5P dress the bottom of the skirt.

6. Iron the skirt. The product is ready.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

When cutting, it is necessary to adhere to an economical consumption of fabric. Cutting will be economical if the pattern is sequentially laid on the unfolded fabric in opposite directions (Fig. 157a). If the fabric is piled or with a pronounced pattern, then the wedges should be cut out in one direction so that the finished wedges do not differ from each other (Fig. . 1576), Seam allowances should also be given.

Fabric consumption for a width of 60-70 cm - three lengths of a skirt plus 12 cm, with a width of 90 cm two lengths of a skirt plus 10 cm and with a width of 140 cm - one length of a skirt plus 5 cm.

Rice. 157 a. The layout of the wedges on the skirt-blade

Rice. 157 b. Layout of wedges on a skirt-blade with pile fabric or fabric with a pattern.

After cutting, the cuts of the wedges can be trimmed (if necessary). To do this, measure the length of the wedge in the middle and lay the same segment along the side cut from the waist line.

Straight Skirt with Notched Ruffles

Romantic style skirt, extended silhouette. Good both in everyday wear and for special occasions (fig. 68), Everything depends on the fabric from which it is made. It can be either satin or velor * awning and any other fabric, It can be sewn on any typical figure. Viz skirts can be made from ready-made shawls that match the structure of the main fabric.

Mainly designed for the younger and middle age group.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of the two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. On the front panel of the skirt, the shaped lines of the bottom of the curly yoke are drawn: segment a1a (Fig. 69).

2. The lower cut-off part of the front - the segment a1a.

3, B with the same correspondence, contoured lines are applied to the back of the skirt, and on the side, points a1 and a2, b 1 and b2 must strictly coincide.

4. Ruffles are cut out in a straight line with a width that overlaps the cut-off part of the bottom by 2-3 cm. Ruffles are cut out at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads, their length should be 1.5 times longer than the lengths of the segments a3a2 and a combined (for upper frill) and the sum of segments b3b2 and b2b (for the lower frill). (How to cut a frill is shown in the layout plan). The width of the frills is 2-3 cm larger than the lower cut-off parts of the skirt.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Process the hem of the frills with a Moscow seam with a double hem.

2, Collect the top of the frills on two machine stitches.

3. Sweep and stitch the middle seam of the back up to the “zip”. Neaten and press the seam in different

sides. The zipper is placed on the wrong side under the ironed folds of the fastener so that the links are 0.1 cm from the edge.

4. Stitch the side cuts of the yokes, folded them face to face, retreating from the cut by the specified allowance width. Seam the seam with an overcasting machine and press towards the back fabric.

5. Basting the gathered lace to the front bottom of the yoke. Then, face to face on top, lay on and sweep the frill, since lace is still inserted between the frill and the yoke). Sew everything in one line, throw the seam and press it towards the yoke. On the front side, fasten it with a finishing line 0.1 cm from the fold.

6. Join the lower part of the skirt along the side seams, sweep the seams and press them towards the rear panel.

7. Baste and stitch the second frill to the bottom edge of the cut-off curly part of the skirt. Fasten on the front side with a finishing line 0.1 cm from the fold.

8. Connect the bottom of the skirt with the sewn frill to the yoke.

9. Neaten the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt, which in this model is wider in style than the usual classic. For a better fit in the waist area, you need to straighten it, that is, draw out the lower cut of the belt with an iron, which connects to the waist, and the fold, on the contrary, is slightly sutu-live. The belt should be ready-made as in Figure 70.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 71.

Straight skirt with draped sides

A straight silhouette skirt for special occasions (fig. 72). Recommended for thin women with narrow hips and thin waist. This skirt visually lengthens the height. In front of the skirt, the cut at the top goes into the belt. The double clasp imitates two rows of buttons. A drapery in the form of a swing is inserted into the cut-off parts, which is made of soft, easily draped fabric. The fabric should not be very heavy so that the shape of the drapery is kept beautifully, giving the model a touch of romanticism.

The buttons can be wrapped around the top with the same fabric from which the skirt is sewn, but you can make them as finishing accessories.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the base of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. Lay aside T1T1-1 equal to the width of the jar (fig. 73).

2. From the top of the dart, lower a straight line along the cut to point b.

3. From point b to the thigh, draw a shaped undercut line.

4. Mark the cut lines for the drapery.

5. Do the same on the back of the skirt, and the points on the thigh should coincide. There will be no seam along the thigh in the drapery, these parts are one-piece. The seam on the side is done only in yokes under the drapery.

6. Draping in reliefs is laid with warehouses upstairs. The lower part of the drapery is sewn in at the undercut.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Lay the warehouses along the AB section from the side of the rear panel and along the BG section from the side of the front panel of the skirt. They should be equal to the vertical undercut lines,

2. Connect these segments to the undercut lines. Press the seams to the center after sweeping.

3. Baste the skirt folded face to face at the side seam. Stitch, iron towards the back. Sew a zipper into the left side.

4. Connect the bottom of the drape to the bottom of the undercut. Neaten the seams and press them down.

5. Sew the finishing stitch on the front side 0.5 cm from the edge in silk matching the fabric.

6. To process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with a preliminary overcasting of the edge on a special machine.

7. Cut out a belt and process the top of the skirt with it.

8. Connect along the central part of the front at the top of the center with a one-piece belt and parts of the belts stitched to the skirt. Sew on six trim buttons.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 75.

Straight Wrap Skirt with Asymmetric Undercut and Drape

Skirt of a straight silhouette with a wrap on the front and a three-button fastening. This asymmetry is good for figures with different configurations of the left and right hips. On the side of the asymmetric fastener there is an undercut and a drapery coming out of it (Fig. 76). Such a skirt is cut in a turn of the fabric. The belt is ordinary, with a clasp or a buckle. This model is good for everyday wear and can be sewn from any kind of fabric. Cotton is especially good for the warm season. For the cold season, wrinkle-free fabrics containing lavsan are recommended. The skirt is suitable for women of any age group.

Construction drawings of the structure The patterns are taken out from the base grid of the drawing of the base of the two-ton skirt (Fig. 14),

The rear panel remains unchanged.

1. B front panel entry T1Tz is equal to the distance to the tuck on the left panel (Figure 77). From point T3 we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line (point

2. At the bottom of the pattern we make a rounding, exactly the same will be in the left panel.

3. We outline the line for undercutting the yoke along the pattern, close the dart in the yoke.

4. On the lower cut-off part, mark the sliding lines with parallel straight lines to the center of the front. Cut from top to bottom and push it apart to the desired width, this will be an assembly for a yoke.

5. We take out the left panel of the skirt from the drawing. At the level of the dart, the line of the overlay of the right side of the TZNZ skirt runs, aligned center to center.

6. Make out the bottom of the side according to the pattern in the same way as in the right panel.

7. We cut out the trimmings 5-7 cm wide exactly according to the configuration of the sides of the right and left panel of the skirt.

8. The belt is cut out with a straight strip of fabric 8-10 cm wide equal to the waist circumference with an addition perpendicular to the warp threads

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep and grind darts on the rear panel and the left front panel. Press them towards the center, pressing the slack at the top of the dart through a damp ironing tool.

2. If there is a middle seam in the back panel, connect it, overcast and press it. If there is no seam, mark the center of the back sheet with copy stitches or soap.

3. Gather the assembly on a double machine stitch with an interval of 0.5 cm and a stitch length of 4-5 mm,

4. Join undercut to gather by folding face to face. Sweep and grind 1 cm from the cuts. Sweep off the allowances and press towards the yoke. On the front side, give a finishing line with lowercase silk 0.1 or 0.5 cm from the edge (optional).

5. Glue the glue pad onto the cut-outs from the inside out with an iron. Fold them face to face with the main details and overcast around the edge. Turn to the wrong side and from the side of the hem, whip out a 0.1 cm piping. On the front side, fasten the notch with a finishing line 0.1 or 0.5 cm from the edge. Remove the embroidery threads. Silk should match the color of the main fabric,

6. On the back panel of the skirt, sweep the bottom with a hem seam with preliminary overcasting of the cuts on a special machine.

7. Fold the front panels of the skirt along the side seam face to face, sweep, grind with a seam width of 1 cm. Neaten the seams and iron them towards the back.

8. To process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt from the edge of the bead to the edge. Iron the entire product from the seamy side.

9. Overcast the buttonholes on the right panel. They are performed on processed parts or on a finished product,

10. On the left panel, mark the place of sewing on the buttons, always combining the centers

on the front. Sew on buttons

11. Hang the skirt on a tremper for full sagging on. 40-45 minutes The product is ready.

PLAN, LAYOUT AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 79,

Straight Wrap Skirt With Gathered Waist

Straight silhouette skirt. Asymmetric wrap closure at the front. On the right side of the lot, the lower part of the skirt is assembly along the waist line, whether * they are slightly rounded at the bottom (Fig, 80). This model is convenient to adjust the change in the size of the waist circumference by simply sewing the traveler or a hook. The skirt is good in everyday wear for any typical figure (except for figures with protruding mo t, as the assembly will increase it even more).

The model can be made from any fabric of the dress group (excluding transparent chiffon, gauze, etc.),

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The drawing (fig. 81) is built on the basis of the basic grid of a two-seam straight skirt (fig. 14).

1. The backrest remains unchanged.

2. On the drawing of the front panel, set aside to the right of the point T 1 (center) the value of the smell - the segment T1T5. It is desirable that it overlaps the dart in the left front panel (this is how the finished product looks more aesthetically pleasing).

3. From point T5 lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the bottom line. We get the point H5, Along the pattern, smoothly draw the rounding of the bottom of the right front panel of the skirt.

4. Mark the sliding lines parallel to straight lines relative to the center line of the panel in front of it. Cut along the lines from top to bottom. Extend the waist to the desired width, depending on the amount of assembly required for the style. The more the slide, the more the assembly will turn out. The groove automatically goes into assembly *

5. The left side of the skirt remains unchanged. At the level of the dart, there is a line of overlap of the edge of the starboard side, thereby closing the dart. The shape of the bottom of the left panel is not rounded.

6. We cut out the under-edge in the shape of the side of the right panel with a width of 6-7 cm. The edge of the left panel can be either stitched in the shape of the edge of the side, 5-7 cm wide, or one-piece. In the drawing, it is shown with a dotted line.

7. Cut out the belt with a width of 8-10 cm, more than the waist circumference by an amount

lead (preferably at an angle of 45 degrees, if the fabric allows, or perpendicular to the warp threads).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

Assemble the assembly on two machine lines with a stitch of at least 4-5 mm.

To process the edges of the sidewalls with stitched sidewalls, for this, glue the non-woven adhesive on the wrong side of the sideboard with an iron. Fold the edge of the bead face to face, overstitch with a seam 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold under the board to the wrong side of the product and sweep the piping from the side by 0.1 cm.

Stitch darts on the back panel and the left front panel of the skirt. Press them to the center. At the top of the dart, press the slack through a wet ironing from the front side of the product.

Join the side seams. Fold the back with the front along the trays with the right sides inward. Sweep, grind on a universal machine. Neaten the seams and press them towards the rear panel.

Prepare the belt.

On the sub-belt from the inside out, glue the adhesive interfacing-36. Then press with an iron. Sew the upper belt to the skirt, folding them face to face, and tuck the allowance on the side of the waistband inward and topstitch from the front side with a finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge. Stitch the edges of the belt, turn it out and press it on.

Punch a loop at the waist and sew on a button

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 83.

Straight skirt with triangular yoke and counter-fold

This model of skirt (fig. 84) is recommended for women of the younger and middle age group, with a thin waist and. not very wide hips. The skirt can be made in soft woolen or crepe fabric and will go well with a classic blouse.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

Initial data: St, C6, Du, Fri, - 1 cm, PB = 2 cm.

We build the basis for the construction of a straight skirt (Fig. 14).

We find the size and position of the darts, but the front and rear darts are not yet completed.

We find the lines of the yokes: from the points T and T1 we lay down 30 cm each and get points K and K1 (Fig. 85), we connect the point K with point 1, point K1: - with point 4. Transfer the ends of the darts to the lines of the yokes and with smooth lines we make out the second side of the darts. From points H and H 1 to the left and to the right, on the continuation of the bottom line, set aside warehouses of 8-10 cm. We arrange the upper sections of the warehouse so that during processing they fall into the seam where the yoke is sewn. To obtain soft folds at the yoke on the front panel of the skirt, first draw the lines of the location of these folds (dashed line in Fig. 85). Then we cut the patterns along the lines starting from the yoke to the side ones so that it does not disintegrate and move apart along each line by 3-4 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Place the snares along the contour lines of the pattern with contrasting threads.

2. To sweep from the front and from the seamy side of the warehouse on the front panel of the skirt. To iron through a damp iron.

3. Lay and sweep soft folds on the middle panel of the skirt along the line of stitching of the triangular yoke.

4. Baste and stitch a triangular yoke to the front panel with a 1-1.5 cm seam.

skirts, making a notch in the corner. During processing, the upper sections of the warehouses should fall into and the tires of the yoke attachment, sweep the yoke attachment seam and press it towards the yoke. On the front side, along the yoke, lay a finishing line with silk threads to match the color of the main fabric,

5. Sweep the warehouse on the back panel y & - from the front and the wrong side, press it through, iron it.

6. Baste and stitch the triangular yoke to the back panel of the skirt, making a notch in the corner. Neaten the seam of the yoke stitching and press it towards the yoke. From the front

on the sides along the yoke, lay a finishing line 0.5 cm from the stitching line with silk threads.

7. Sweep and stitch the side cuts of the skirt, leaving the left side seam unstitched in the fastening area. Neaten the sections, iron the seams.

8. Sew in and sew in a zipper into the left side seam, the size of the fastener is 18-20 cm.

9. Process the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously stitched adhesive interlining on under the belt. The finished belt width is 5 cm.

10. Process the bottom edge of the skirt with a seam in a hem with a closed edge or with an open edge, the lower edge of the skirt is pre-swept.

11, Iron the finished product.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 86.

If the fabric is folded in half, then the allowances for the warehouses on the front and back panels are cut out in one piece. Fabric consumption for a width of 150 cm is equal to: skirt length plus 12 cm (for the waist) plus seam allowances. With a width of 90 cm, the fabric consumption is equal to: two skirt lengths plus 12 cm (for the belt) plus seam allowances.

Straight skirt with symmetrical cuts

Straight two-seam skirt with symmetrical cuts on the front panel. Three one-sided warehouses emerge from each undercut, laid in the side of the side. The darts of the front go off the yoke-undercut (rice, 87). For this model of the skirt, it is advisable to use six or mixed fabrics. This skirt will suit women of any age group.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The skirt is built on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig-14, 88)

MODELING OF THE FRONT SHELF.

1. Expansion along the bottom of the front and back half of the skirt - 2 cm.

2. Undercut formation - make an undercut through the end of the dart. Transfer the dart to the undercut line.

3. Warehouses - divide the undercut line into three equal parts and draw vertical lines downward from the undercut. The width of the warehouses is 1/2 of its depth.

Cut off the upper stock allowances only after sweeping the stock with an undercut.

SKIRT SIMULATION.

1 .. Close the darts on the front panel of the skirt (fig. 89).

2. We cut and move apart the warehouses (rice, 90).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

The sequence of sewing a skirt.

After cutting out the skirt, we are preparing for the first fitting.

1. Sweep the darts on the back of the skirt from top to bottom.

2. We notice warehouses from the front side and from the wrong side.

3. We sweep away warehouses with undercut.

4. We sweep the side cuts, combining the control lines of the bottom, hips, waist.

5. Sewing in the lock.

6. Bend the bottom allowance inside out and sweep:

7. We measure the length of the cut along the waist line, collect it into two strands to prevent stretching.

8. Prepare the braid (stripe strip) equal in length to the waist plus 2-3 cm for entry.

9. Sew the braid to the waist line, sweep it along the skirt.

FIRST EXAMPLE.

1. We pay attention to the appearance of the skirt, how the product fits the figure along the waist and hips, whether the warehouses are well laid, whether the bottom of the skirt is evenly folded, whether the skirt is long enough.

2. After trying on, mark all changes with a contrasting thread. Remove the braid, unpick the sides to separate the front and back halves of the skirt.

SKIRT PROCESSING PROCEDURE.

1. Sewing darts on the back of the skirt.

2. We make damp heat treatment of darts:

a) we iron the dart from the inside out, as if pressing it down with a thong;

b) ironing the dart on both sides;

c) we press the bulge at the end of the dart;

d) iron the dart from the front side through the ironing to the center of the product.

3. Ironing the warehouses. We do not remove the thread, which is used to mark the warehouses, until the end of sewing,

4. Sew the warehouses with an undercut and press the seam towards the undercut. We sweep the cut.

5. Sew the side cuts, sweeping them again, aligning the control lines. Iron the seams. Sew the left one up to the fastener, insert the lock, add the belt

SECOND EXAMPLE.

We clarify the position of the fastener, align, the bottom of the product, Then we sew in the lock, process the bottom of the product and the upper cut of the skirt.

Straight skirt with symmetrical undercuts and inset from the opposite stock

The skirt is two-seam made of woolen or mixed fabric, and the front panel of the skirt has two symmetrical cuts in the upper part. In the center of the front panel there is an insert from the opposite storehouses, laid inside. Stitched belt, no zipper on the side seam (Fig. 91).

This skirt model is more suitable for women of the younger and middle age group and will be perfectly combined with a classic-cut blouse.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The design of this model of the skirt is built on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14) by modeling the front panel (Fig. 92).

1. We translate the front darts 2 cm closer to the center.

2. Draw undercut lines through the ends of the darts to the side cuts

3. Mark the line of the insert on the front panel and divide it into 8 equal parts. The width of the warehouses is 1/2 of its depth.

4. Expansion along the bottom of the front and back halves of the skirt - 2 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep over the opposite folds on the insert from the front side and from the inside to the center and press it on from the front side through the ironing tool.

2. Basting yokes to the main part of the front panel and stitching. Sweep the sections. Press the stitching seams onto the yokes.

3. Sew in the insert onto the front panel and sew in, after making notches in the corners of the main part. Neaten the stitching seam and press it towards the main part.

4. Sweep the darts on the back of the skirt and stitch, making bartacks at the tops of the darts.

Press the darts towards the center of the rear panel

5. Sweep the side cuts of the skirt, aligning the control lines (waist, hips, bottom line).

6. Stitch the sides of the skirt, leaving the left side seam unstitched at the fastening area. Neaten the sections, iron the seams.

7. Sew in and sew in zipper.

8. Process the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt. The width of the finished belt is 3-4 cm.

9. To process the bottom of the skirt with a seam in a hem with a closed cut or with an open cut, after sweeping it.

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout of the patterns on the material is shown in Fig. 94.

Straight skirt with symmetrical front and back cuts

This model of a skirt is a modification of a straight two-volume skirt. On the front and rear panels, symmetry-stump undercuts are made. One-sided warehouses emerge from them. Zip fastener in the side seam, stitching on the belt (fig. 95).

This skirt model will suit women of any age group. It is advisable to use woolen or mixed fabrics for its sewing.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The design of this model of the skirt is built on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14) by modeling the front and rear panels (Fig. 96).

1. We outline the lines of undercuts on the drawing, as we want to see in the finished form.

2. Divide the line of each undercut into four equal parts and draw vertical lines downward from the undercut. The width of the warehouses is 1/2 of its depth.

Modeling the front panel of the skirt is shown in Fig. 97. Warehouses on the back panel of the skirt are moved apart in the same way.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep darts on the front and back of the skirt from top to bottom. Sew darts, bartacking, iron to the center of the panels. Press the slack in the tops of the darts.

2. Sweep the warehouses from the front and from the inside, then iron them.

3. Sweep away warehouses with undercuts on the front and back of the skirt.

4. Stitch swept-out warehouses with undercuts. Neaten the sections, press the grinding seams to the sides of the undercuts. On the front side, lay a finishing line 0.5 cm from the undercut stitching line with the warehouses.

5. Sweep and stitch the side cuts of the skirt, aligning the reference lines, leaving the left side seam unstitched at the fastening area. Neaten the cuts, iron the seams,

6. Sew in and sew in zipper.

7. Process the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously glued glue interlining under the belt,

8. Cover the bottom of the skirt.

9. Seam the bottom of the skirt with a closed hem.

10. Iron the skirt - the product is ready!

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout of the patterns on the material is shown in Fig. 98.

Straight skirt with cut-out pockets and padded pleats at the waist

The skirt is made on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt and can be sewn from thick woolen, raincoat or denim. The zip fastening is located in the center of the back. One-sided slot along the middle seam of the back. Instead of darts along the front, small warehouses - tucks. Stitched belt. On the front panel of the skirt there are pockets with a detachable flank. Finishing stitching along the middle seam of the front and the edges of the pockets (fig, 99).

This skirt is more suitable for women in the younger and middle age group. Suitable for wearing in the cold season.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The design of this model of the skirt is based on a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14),

1. We give an extension at the bottom of 1.5 cm (Fig. 100).

2. On the front half of the skirt, the darts are transferred to small warehouses, but they do not remain in the old place, but move closer to the center in style. The depth of each fold is 1/2 the depth of the dart.

3. Mark on the front panel the line of entry into the pocket. The dotted line in the drawing is highlighted on the burlap pocket,

4. We give an allowance for the slot in the middle seam of the rear panel (6-10 cm). We take the length of the slots equal to 20-25 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep up small folds on the front panel of the skirt, sweep away the darts on the rear panel of the skirt.

2. Bust off the middle seam of the front half of the skirt.

3. Baste the cut-off barrel to the pocket entry line.

4. Sweep the seam of the rear panel skirt to the place where the slot will be processed. Sweep the slots allowances to the wrong side.

5. Sweep the side cuts, aligning the control lines of the bottom, hips, waist. Baste allowances on both sides of the seam.

6. Sew the zipper into the side seam.

7. Press the bottom allowance inside out and sweep.

8. Prepare a braid (stripe strip) equal in length to the waist plus 2-3 cm for entry.

9. Baste the tape to the upper edge of the skirt.

10. Carry out the first primark. Pay attention to the appearance of the skirt: how the product fits the figure along the waist and hips, whether the bottom of the skirt is bent evenly, whether the small folds are the same along the waistline, whether the cut of the pocket matches the model, whether the length of the skirt and slots are sufficient. After fitting, mark all changes with contrasting thread. Remove the braid, split the sides to separate the front and back halves of the skirt,

11. Finish the pockets of the skirt (see below).

12. Sew the middle seam of the front half of the skirt. Iron the seams, lay finishing lines,

13. Sew small folds, iron them towards the center.

14. Tie up the middle seam of the back fabric of the lower part of the skirt to the place where the slot will be processed.

15. To process the slot,

16. Stitch darts on the back half of the skirt.

17. Carry out wet heat treatment of the darts.

18. Stitch the side cuts, sweeping them again, aligning the reference lines. Iron the seams. Sew the left side to the fastener, sweep in the lock, sweep the belt,

19. Make a second fitting, during which to clarify the position of the fastener, trim the bottom of the product. Then sew in the lock, process the skirt and its upper cut with a stitched belt.

HANDLING SKIRT POCKETS

To strengthen the entrance to the pocket to the wrong side of the main part, sweep the edge or gasket, sweep the one-piece edging with sackcloth face to face with the entrance to the pocket and stitch the cut with a seam of 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Cut the gasket from the seam, make a notch on the roundings. Turn out, sweep and press. Sew a finishing stitch on the 1st model. On the cut-off barrel, mark the line of the entrance to the pocket, attach the cut-off barrel to the main part, sew the parts of the burlap with a 1 cm seam, fasten the entrance to the pocket with bartacks perpendicular to the entry line, iron the pocket.

CUT RULES

When cutting symmetrical parts, the fabric is folded in half with the right side inward and the wrong side out. In this case, the edges of the fabric must be aligned and pinned along their edge.

When cutting asymmetrical skirts, the fabric should be laid face down in one layer. The paper details of the pattern are applied to the fabric with the side on which the inscriptions were not made.

Straight skirt with asymmetrical drapery

A skirt of a straight silhouette with asymmetrical drapery in a romantic style (Fig. 101). All types of soft viscous fabrics (velor, velvet, panne, plush, spandex, some types of stretch group fabrics) are suitable for this model, since it uses ray drapery in the cross-oblique direction. If it is made of elegant fabric, it will be quite appropriate for special occasions.

This model is well suited for women of average age with a properly folded figure. However, this skirt is not suitable for women with a sharply defined belly, as the drapery visually attracts attention, and will highlight the belly even more due to its volume.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig, 14). The back remains unchanged, B the middle seam is sewn in with a "zipper". There is a slot at the bottom of the middle seam of the back.

1. Along the horizontal line of the bottom to the left, set aside a segment HH5 equal to 5 cm (Fig. 102).

2. We draw the segment vertically up to the desired length of the spline - this will be the length of the spline in the style,

3. Before being built in an expanded form. Cutting part 2 is drawn according to the pattern (the main part of the skirt - 1),

4. The top of the left dart is lifted up to touch the cut-off part. New side parts of the dart are drawn. Both darts will be closed. The left side of the side is divided into 5 equal parts just like the right, but the size of the right sides should be slightly larger. For example, the left side is 2 cm, the right side is 3 cm.

5. Connect the resulting points with smooth curves along the pattern.

TECHNICAL SIMULATION (FIG. 103).

1. 1. Take out the cut-off part 2 from the drawing.

2. Close the darts.

3. Cut the relief lines towards the side,

4. Move the drapery to the desired width, taking into account the structure and softness of the fabric. The more the parting is, the more drapery, therefore, more volume will be in the abdomen.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Connect the middle seam of the back, folding the pieces face to face. Sweep and grind, leaving 15-16 cm at the top for the "zipper" and at the bottom - the size of the slot.

2. Sew the darts, iron them to the center, pressing the slack in the top.

3. The drapery is collected on two machine lines with a stitch width of 4-5 mm. Tighten by an amount equal to the side parts of the cutting part N 2,

4. Part No. 2 is folded face to face with the front of the skirt, grinded along constructive shaped lines. The seams are swept over, ironed towards part No. 2 and fixed with a finishing line on the front side by 0.1 mm from the edge.

5. The slot is processed in the back (see below).

6. When the front and back are prepared, fold them face to face and sweep, then grind down the side seam. The seams are swept and ironed from the seamy side through a wet ironing,

7. The bottom is processed with a seam in a hem with a preliminary overcasting of the cut. If the skirt is sewn from an elegant fabric (velor * velvet), then the hem is manually hemmed with blind stitches.

8- The top of the skirt is treated with a stitched belt.

9. Punch the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.

10. The finished skirt is ironed and hung up for 20-30 minutes to sag.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut in a turn of the fabric, especially if the fabric is fleecy. The layout of the patterns for this model of the skirt is shown in Fig. 104.

Straight skirt with symmetrical oval drape

Skirt of a straight silhouette of a romantic style. Double-sided drapery is made in the middle of the front panel. The undercut is made with a concave curved line, from which the drapery emerges to the bottom of the skirt. The clasp is made on the back with loops and hooks (fig. 105).

This skirt model is mainly suitable for women in the middle age group and for young people. The only limitation in this is a slightly protruding belly. The skirt can be made of various types of fabrics, depending on the purpose: for special occasions - from any kind of soft, draped elegant fabric, for everyday wear - from any type of fabric of the dress group, for example, crepe.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

1. The back remains unchanged (the middle seam of the back is connected without reaching the top by the size of the fastener on loops and hooks),

2. Before being built in an expanded form (Fig. 106).

3. On the front, the undercut line AB is marked symmetrically under the patterns.

4. From points A and B, lines of undercuts are drawn symmetrically to the sides, along which subsequently a sliding will be carried out for drapery. Moreover, the AB segment is divided into an equal number of parts relative to the center line of the front, since in the middle of the front is provided

the seam. On the sides, the T2H4 is also divided into an equal number of parts.

5. The points of the segment A B, respectively, are connected with the points along the side parts of the skirt, these are the lines of the drapery sliding.

6. Cut off the upper yoke of the front of the skirt. Cut the drapery from the center to the sides and move it to the desired width.

TECHNOLOGICAL MODELING (FIG. 107)

1. Cut off the yoke, close the darts on the front

2. Make oblique cuts from the yoke to the sides of the skirt and slide to the desired width.

3. The front of the skirt remains along the line thread, that is, along the line of the warp thread.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep, sew the middle seam of the back with machine stitch 0.2-0.3 cm wide. Remove the basting threads. Press the seam open, having previously swept over it.

2. Complete the hook and loop fastener (see below).

3. Gather the drapery into two machine lines with a maximum stitch length, having previously swept and sewn the middle seam of the front of the skirt and the front of the yoke. Neaten and press the seams.

4. Connect the drapery with the yoke, folding the details face to face, sweep and grind. Neaten the seam and press on the yoke. On the side of the yoke, give the finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge,

5. Sweep and stitch the side seams, folding the back and front of the skirt face to face. Neaten seams, press towards the back.

6. Process the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt,

Trim the bottom of the skirt with a seam in a hem with a preliminary overcasting of the edge of the product

PROCESSING HOOK AND HINGE BUCKLES

The trimmed edge of the allowance on the upper side of the fastener is processed with a fractional facing cut from the main or lining fabric, the inner edge of which should reach the fold and serve as an edge and lining for hooks for the upper side of the fastener

The allowance of the lower side of the fastener is processed in the same way as the upper one, but the inner edge of the facing is processed depending on the thickness of the fabric. When processing the top of the skirt, the upper corner of the fastener is ground along the edge of the upper side of the fastener at a distance of 0.5-1 cm. A line is laid, ending it perpendicularly or obliquely to the edge of the fastener. The clasp at the end is secured with two transverse stitches.

Hooks are sewn to the top of the fastener, thread loops to the bottom.

The top hook in the skirt closure is positioned at a 45 degree angle to the closure edge and 0.5 cm from the top and side edges.

LAYOUT PLAN.

The skirt is cut into a turn of the fabric. The layout of the patterns for this model of the skirt is shown in Fig. 108.

Straight skirt with swing type drapery

Model of a straight silhouette in a romantic style with extended hips. There is a seam in the center of the front. The bottom line is slightly rounded. But in fact, the zipper in the central neck of the back plays the role of a fastener. As one of the options, it is possible to make pockets in the drapery on the sides (fig. 109).

The skirt is suitable for women with narrow hips, as the drapery along this part of the body makes them visually wider. Suitable for everyday wear, but preferably with blouses tucked in, since all the "highlight" of this model of the skirt is in the hips, and it is not recommended to cover this part. The model is suitable for women of all ages, and different types of fabrics can be used depending on the purpose.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

1. Patterns of the back and front are taken out from the drawing of a straight cut skirt with two seams on the sides (Fig. 14).

2. The backrest remains unchanged.

3. Since the drapery is symmetrical on both sides, the front of the skirt is built on one half (that is, the fabric will be folded in half in width).

4. Along the front, the bottom line of the drapery is outlined along the pattern, the segment of the curve is aa 2.

5. The top of the front panel dart a3a is transferred here. The point a3 (1) is connected to the point a1 of a smooth curve along the pattern (Fig. 110),

6. On the side, two other points a 4 and a5 are outlined: which are connected to the lateral tops of the darts, then they will be cut and moved once for a drapery, called a "swing".

7. The bottom of the front is slightly rounded, which is made in the same way according to the pattern.

8. There is gathering along the waist line from the center of the front to the drapery. To do this, draw a line parallel to the center of the front section of T2H2. We get the segment T5H5.

Then we cut the segment T1H1 in the direction from the waist to the bottom line and move it apart to the desired width, which provides freedom in the waist area.

9. If the model provides pockets, then they are cut out in the normal state of the front, starting from the upper drapery line a5a1 (in Fig. 110, the pocket is outlined by a dotted line), which corresponds to the size of your palm,

10. We take out the pattern of the front and make the appropriate spacers.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Stitch the darts along the back panel of the skirt, press them to the center, B the top area, press the slack through a wet ironing.

2. Connect the center seam of the backrest, sweep the seams and press them on the wrong side.

3. Sew in and sew in "zipper".

4. Sweep and grind the middle front seam. Neaten the seam and press it in different directions.

5. Connect points a 2, a4 and a5, laying folds up on the side. We get a swing-type drapery on the side. We fasten it with pins (fig. 111).

6. Along the thallium line, collect the drapery into two machine lines or lay it in folds. The main thing is that in the finished form there is a correspondence to the volume of the waist,

7. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously joined the side seams.

8. The belt consists of two halves with a seam located in the center of the front. We fold it face to face with the skirt, combined the central seams of the front. After processing the belt on the front side, on both sides of the central seam at the same distance, we sew the finishing buttons,

9. We process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with preliminary overcasting of the cut or hem with blind stitches if the skirt is made of elegant fabric.

10. Punch a loop and sew a button on the belt.

11, The product is ironed and made to sag.

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout is done on a double-folded fabric, since all the details of the cut are symmetrical. If the model provides pockets in the side seams, then they are cut out in accordance with the layout plan (Fig. 112),

Straight Skirt with Pleated Warehouses

This skirt is modeled on the basis of a straight two-seam. The pleated insert on the front serves as decoration. There is a seam in the center of the front. The starting point for the undercut for the warehouse is chosen arbitrarily (at your request), but it is advisable to choose it at the knee level. The zipper is located in the side seam (fig. 113).

Thus, this model of a straight silhouette of a business strict style. The skirt will look good on women with a typical figure and will be appropriate for everyday wear, for work and business meetings. It is advisable to sew this model of a skirt from a fabric with the addition of cotton, wool or lavsan, so that during pleating the warehouses are well fixed and not wrinkled.

BUILDING CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS

The patterns for the back and front are removed from the drawing of a straight cut skirt with two seams on the sides (Figure 14).

1. Select point A - the beginning of the undercut on the middle line of the front.

2. Select point B - the end of the undercut on the bottom line.

3. We connect these points and get a segment AB (there is no seam along the line AH1, there is a fold of the fabric) (Fig. 114).

4. Extend the bottom line to the right, we get a segment H1B1 equal to H1B (triangle ABN 1 was turned over in a mirror image).

We get the whole insert ABB 1.

5. Section BB 1 is divided into an equal number of segments (warehouse).

6. From point A, perpendicular to the center of the front, at an equal distance to the right and left of the line, we put the segments. We get points A1 and A 2.

7. Connect point A 1 with the lower right points of the triangle. This is the direction of the warehouse. We connect point A 2 with the lower points

left triangle, this is also the direction of the warehouse.

8. We cut along the lines obtained from the bottom up and move the warehouses to the required width.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Fold the pleating face to face with the side parts of the undercut, after connecting the middle seam of the front of the skirt and ironing it, sweeping it, stitching with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Neaten the seams and press them towards the main panel of the skirt.

On the front side, give the finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge, thereby securing the seam allowance.

2. Connect the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, stitch, iron to the center.

3. Fold the panels face to face, sweep along the side seams, leaving a space for the "zipper" in the left side. Stitch, overcast, press the seams in different directions,

4. Sew-in and zip-in.

5. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt,

6. Finish the hem of the skirt with a hem seam with a preliminary overcasting of the cut.

7. Iron the finished skirt through damp ironing.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut in folds of fabric. The layout of the patterns for this model of the skirt is shown in Fig. 116.

Straight skirt, flared on the yoke

Romantic style skirt, flared at the bottom. Asymmetric yoke is made on the front, Zipper on the left side. On the belt in an oblique direction, a braid is stitched with which the edge of the yoke is also trimmed (Fig. 117),

The skirt is perfect for everyday wear. It is mainly made of light, flying fabrics, and you can combine it: a yoke can be made of a plain fabric, and a shuttlecock - from a transparent one, such as chiffon or nylon. The model is well suited for women of the younger and. middle age group with a slender figure.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of a straight two-seam skirt in an expanded form (Fig, 14).

1. An asymmetric yoke is outlined on the back panel of the skirt .. The yoke cut line is a segment AB (fig. 118).

2. Accordingly, on the front panel, points A and B of the yoke - on the side must coincide.

3. The lines of sliding along the bottom of the front and rear panels are outlined,

4. Allow along the lines and make the expansion at the bottom more than along the AB line, so that the cage is in the cage. Along the AB yoke cut line, we expand to the desired assembly width.

5. Darts on yokes are usually closed (for a more aesthetic look). To do this, those darts, the tops of which touch the yoke line, are simply closed, and in other cases, a straight line is dropped from the top onto the yoke. Along the dotted line, it is cut to the top (the dart then closes), and opens at the bottom, that is, we transfer the dart down from the waist. At what distance the tuck opened at the bottom, by this amount it is necessary to remove it from the side adjacent to it.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGIES

1. Collect the upper edges of the flounces into two machine lines with a maximum stitch length with a distance of 0.5 cm

2. Fold the edges of straight yokes along the marked line, sweep and press. Connect the yokes with stitching, stitching and overhead methods (fig. 120).

3. Fold the yoke with the shuttlecock face to face, equalizing the cuts. Sweep and grind with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm, Neaten the seam and press to the side of the yoke. On the front side, fasten with a finishing line 0.1 cm from the edge,

4. Stitch the tape on both sides in a straight line along the edge of the yoke, 0.1 cm on each side.

5. Sweep and grind the side seams, aligning the yokes on the side. From the left side of the side we sew in and sew in a "zipper".

6. Neaten and press the seams from the wrong side.

7. Seam the bottom of the skirt with a hem. preliminary overcasting of the edge or a seam with a double hem of the edge ("Moscow" seam).

8. Sew the tape on the belt on the right side of the front in an oblique direction.

9. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt.

10. Pierce the buttonhole and sew on the button.

11. Iron the product from the inside or from the front side through a damp ironing iron.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut in folds of fabric. The layout of the patterns for this model of the skirt is shown in Fig. 121.

Straight skirt with chilli ruffle

This skirt is a straight silhouette in a romantic style. On her front in the middle neck - a warehouse in section. The incision starts at or slightly below the knee. On the belt, two finishing buttons frame the middle seam, and one-sided storages on the belt, directed from top to bottom, serve as decoration (Fig. 122).

Such a skirt is generally good for holidays and celebrations, thanks to the beautiful decoration on the front - the “kokilye” frill. It is suitable for slender women with a typical figure. The model can be made of any fabric of a light group, dress, smart (except for translucent, such as chiffon). It looks good from a plain canvas or from a fabric with small peas. The "chill mold" fringe can be made of fabric of the same texture as the main one, but slightly different in color (preferably lighter). The same fabric can also be used to wrap around the trim buttons on the waistband.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig, 14).

1. Leave the backrest unchanged.

2. On the middle seam of the front, the point of the beginning of the cut A is selected.

3. From this point to the right, from the cutting AB, equal to two widths of finished warehouses is deposited, since this warehouse is opposite.

4. From point T 1 to the right, set aside 1 cm seam allowance. We get point T 2.

5. We connect point T1 with point B of a smooth curve (the warehouse itself in Fig. 123 is shown by hatching).

6. Modeling "chill mold". "Coquille" cut out in a spiral (Fig. 124). The inner length of the entire spiral should be equal to the length of the middle seam of the front of the skirt, that is, the segment T1H1 The width of the spiral is selected according to the model, then it is the width of the frill in the finished form.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Process the marked part of the frill with a double hem seam to the wrong side ("Moscow" or shawl seam).

2. Place it inside out on the face of the front panel of the skirt. Baste,

3. Fold the front skirt panels face to face, sweep and stitch along the center seam. Neaten and press the allowances in different directions, leaving the cut unstressed. Remove the basting threads.

4. Sweep and grind darts on the front and rear panels. Press them to the center, pressing the slack in the apex area.

5. Fold the sheets face to face and sweep along the side seams, leaving room for the “zipper” in the left side seam. Stitch, sweep the seams and press them in different directions.

6. Sew in and sew in "zipper",

7. To process the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with a preliminary overcasting of the cut.

8. Prepare the field:

- cut out a strip of fabric equal to half the length of the belt (since there is a seam in the middle of the front) and three volumes wider than the width of the belt in finished form;

- sweep and topstitch one-sided warehouses of the selected width according to the style;

- fold the top belt with stitched folds face to face with under the belt and overstitch along the top edge. After that, turn it out;

- connect the two halves along the middle seam;

- straighten the belt (that is, draw out the lower open sections with an iron, which will connect to the waist of the skirt, and press the upper seam of the belt) - The belt should, in its finished form, have the form of an arc (in this form, it fits better to the waist).

9. Process the top of the skirt with a stitched belt.

10. Pierce the buttonhole and sew on the button (see below).

FOR LAYOUT

The skirt is cut on the fabric folded in half. The layout of the patterns for this model of the skirt is shown in Fig. 125,

Straight skirt with fly-off cape

This romantic style skirt is good for holidays and special occasions. A flying cape gives it solemnity, especially if it is made of expensive elegant fabric. But at the same time, the skirt is strict, as it is made on the basis of a straight two-seam. The cape is sewn into the belt starting from the location of the darts along the front and along the entire width of the rear panel, moreover, it is shortened in front, and longer at the back and converges with its tail towards the center of the rear panel (thus, an imitation of a train occurs) (Fig. 126).

The skirt itself can be made of black strict fabric, and the cape - of black shiny brocade type (evening version); made of elegant white fabric for women who prefer to perform the solemn wedding ceremony in a suit rather than a dress. The buttons on the belt are sewn at the level of the beginning of the cape along the front.

Such a skirt will suit both women with typical figures and those with fuller hips, since the cape hides this part of the body. Recommended to be worn with classic stiletto heels, which makes the figure taller and slimmer.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. The front and back remain unchanged,

2. A point is selected on the side. A. T2A - length on the capes on the side (fig. 127),

3. Connect point A with a straight line with the top of the dart in front of point B.

Segment BB1 - front length of the cape (front dart closes).

4. Point A is connected by a straight line with point A1 along the back, segment TA1 is the length of the cape along the back.

5. Draw vertical sliding lines, perpendicular to the bottom line of the skirt. Cut from bottom to waist. Thus, we move the dart down the back, closing it at the waist.

SIMULATION OF THE CAPE

The larger the wiring, the more fold will be on it in finished form (Fig. 128),

You can make a cape without a side seam.In this case, it is necessary to connect the parts along the side seam in a straight line, and simply place the side dart at the waist or close it, moving it to the bottom of the cape (Fig, 129).

In this case, you can make the cape removable (since the waist of the skirt and the cape exactly match), and fasten it, for example, in front of the confusion.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Stitch darts on the front and back of the skirt, press to the center, pressing the slack in the top.

2. Sweep and grind the middle seam of the back, leaving room for the "zipper", Neaten and press the allowances from the inside out

3. Sew in, sew in "zipper" in the middle seam.

4. Fold the details of the skirt face to face, sweep the side seams, grind with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Neaten and press the allowances.

5. Hem over the hem of the skirt with a pre-overcast hem. Iron the seam from the front side through a damp ironing iron.

6. Sew the belt to the skirt.

Cloak processing

1. If the cape is cut according to the second option (without side seams), then process its front part with BB1 and the bottom with a double hem seam to the wrong side (Moscow seam). If according to the first option, then first grind and sweep the side seams of the cape, and then process the bottom.

2. Sew a piping seam on the waist of the cape. To do this, cut out an oblique or transverse inlay with a width equal to twice the width of the edging plus 1-1.5 cm.Fold the inlay along the middle and iron it, Apply the finished inlay with the right side to the inside of the cape and stitch it from the side of the inlay with a seam width of 0.5-0.7 see the seam go around with a piping, forming a piping. Stitch it from the front side at a distance of 0.1 -0.2 cm from the fold, while on the wrong side the line should run 0.1 cm from the inner seam of the inlay. Press on the wrong side. Punch a buttonhole at an angle to the front line of the cape by the size of the button to sew it to the skirt.

3. Sew on buttons on the front of the skirt at the level of the front darts.

4. Fasten (or fasten in the seam of attaching the belt) the cape.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut on the fabric folded in half. The layout of the patterns for this model of the skirt is shown in Fig. 130.

Straight skirt with rectangular insert and three one-sided folds

A straight skirt with a rectangular, inset and three one-sided, folds on the side is a modified straight skirt (Fig. 139). It will suit women of the younger and middle age group and will be very comfortable both for everyday wear and for special occasions. This skirt can be made of any fabric of the dress-suit group, and for greater contrast, the side warehouses can be made of a material that is similar in structure to the main one, nor does it differ in color and. even a pattern.

BUILDING A DRAWING, CONSTRUCTION

Initial data: St, Sat, Du, Fri = 1 cm, PB = 2 cm.

We build the basis for the construction of a straight skirt with a front panel in an expanded form (Figure 14).

1. Draw a relief line on the front panel, as shown in fig. 140.

2. From point B3 (the point of intersection of the relief line with the line of the hips), set aside 5 cm upwards and set point B 4.

3. From point B 4 we draw a perpendicular to the relief line and at the intersection with the line T2H2 set point E5.

4. From the point BZ down, set aside 10 cm and put point 1, through which we draw a line parallel to the segment B4B5 and at the intersection with the line T2H2, put point 2.

5. We draw lines for the location of one-sided warehouse. To do this, divide the segment indicated by points 1-2 into 3 equal parts (so: as the quantity of the warehouse is 3), and through the points obtained we draw straight lines, perpendicular to the bottom line.

6. Cut off the left side of the front panel along the relief line, then cut along the line of a rectangular insert passing through points B 4 B5, 2, 1,

7. We cut the patterns along the lines of the warehouse and move them to the width of the allowance for each warehouse. For one-sided storage, the allowance is 8 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Make a snare along the contour lines of the pattern.

2. Sweep and stitch darts on the back of the skirt. Produce WTO darts.

3. Stitch a dart on the right half of the front panel. Produce WTO tucks,

4. Sweep one-sided warehouses from the front and back sides.

5. Sweep and stitch parts of the left half of the front panel of the skirt. In this case, the width of the seam is 1-1.5 cm. Neaten the sections. The seams behind are ironed towards the waist line. On the front side, lay the finishing lines 0.5 cm (as shown in Figure 139).

6. Sweep and grind two parts of the front panel of the skirt along the relief line with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Neaten the cuts, press the seam onto the right half of the front panel. On the front side, lay a finishing line 0.5 cm.


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