Lecture notes on the technological sequence of processing a straight lined skirt. The side sections of the lining are treated with a stitched seam. The darts on the lining are not ground down, but laid in folds in opposite directions from the darts. sp
TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF PROCESSING A SKIRT
Initial processing of skirt parts
The initial processing will include the processing of tucks, folds, connecting parts with coquettes, overcasting cuts of parts, etc.
Skirts can be made on a lining to protect the back panel from pulling out. In the lining of the skirt, the darts are initially ground down (the darts can be replaced by soft folds), the side sections are ground down and overcast. In the left side seam, the linings are overcast and the edges are sewn under the fastener. The bottom of the lining is treated with a hem seam with a closed cut.
The processed lining is put into the skirt, in which the clasp is processed, the tucks and notches are combined, the upper sections are equalized and connected on a stitching machine at a distance of 5 mm from the upper sections.
Processing fasteners in skirts
Fasteners in skirts are located on the front, back panel or in the left side seam, fold.
The most common zipper processed in two ways: at the same distance on both sides of the side seam line and at different distances. The links of the zipper, when connected, must be hidden under the seam allowances. The processing of the fastener is performed with stitched, overcast, ironed side seams and with ironed sections of the fastener.
Processing of fasteners - zippers when fastening at the same distance from folds. When sewing a zipper on a single-needle machine with a special foot, the line is placed at a distance of 4-7 mm from the edge of the fastener, depending on the size of the links. At the end of the fastener, the line is laid perpendicular to the cut at a distance of 1-5 mm from the end of the zipper links or at an angle (Fig. 17.15, a).
Processing of the zipper when fixing it with the shift of the links under skirt front panel. Under the ironed fold of the back panel of the skirt, the right part of the woven tape of the zipper is placed and opened so that the fold of the allowance for the zipper is located butt to the zipper links, and the lock is at a distance of 15 mm from the upper cut of the skirt. After fixing the right side with pins, the zipper is closed, the fold of the zipper allowance from the side of the front panel is brought end-to-end to the fold of the zipper allowance from the side of the back panel of the skirt and cut off with three or four pins in the transverse direction, securing the front panel and the zipper. When chipping, the upper sections of the front and back panels of the skirt are equalized and a single line of the side seam is created. Then the zipper is opened and from the wrong side, the parallelism of the location of the links relative to the fold is specified.
Attaching is performed from the front side in one step from the upper cut of the front panel to the upper cut of the back panel. The front part of the zipper is fixed at a distance of 8-10 mm, On the back panel of the skirt, a line is laid at a distance of 2 mm from the fold.
Rice. 17.15- Processing zippers on skirts
Processing of the zip fastener with full closing of the links. A feature of the processing of such a fastener is the fastening of the zipper with an offset under the front, place the links of the right side of the woven tape (3-5 mm relative to the side seam line). Allowances for side cuts in the fastener area are increased to 10-35 mm. When ironing the side seams, only the cut of the fastener of the front panel is ironed along the line of the side seam. The section of the fastener of the back panel is folded towards the wrong side, releasing an allowance of 3-5 mm relative to the line of the side seam, and ironed. Under the fold, the right side of the woven zipper tape is laid open so that the fold fits end-to-end with the links.
The right part of the woven tape of the zipper is stitched at a distance of 2 mm from the fold, ensuring free movement of the fastener lock. The zipper is closed, and the ironed fold of the zipper allowance to the front panel of the skirt is brought to the line of the side seam, equalizing the upper sections and chipping them off with pins.
Sew the left side of the woven tape along the front side of the front panel from above. They finish with a double - triple transverse stitch perpendicular to the side seam line or at an angle to it (Fig. 17.15. c). For the stability of the fastener and improve the appearance along the fold of its front part, a finishing stitch is performed at a distance of 2 mm from the edge.
Processing the top cut of the skirt with a stitched belt
The belt can be one-piece with a sub-belt or detachable, with a seam along the fold line. In length, it can consist of two parts: with a seam at the level of the side seam or under the belt loops. The ends of the belt usually overlap each other by 30-60 mm and are fastened with a welt loop and button or a metal hook and loop. A fastening allowance can be added to each or one of the ends of the belt. The belt is made with a lining of adhesive or non-adhesive fabric, as well as without a lining.
Before connecting the skirt with the belt, the upper cut of the skirt is cut, the length and width of the belt are specified.
On the wrong side of the inner part of the belt, a non-adhesive gasket is applied and adjusted along the length at a distance of 2-5 mm from the fold (middle) of the belt. The lower cut of the gasket is equalized with the lower cut of the belt when using a thin non-adhesive gasket. When using a sealed non-adhesive or adhesive gasket, the lower cut of the gasket should not reach 10 mm from the cut of the inner part of the belt.
The belt is bent in the middle along the fold with the front side inward, equalizing the sections and combining the control signs. The ends of the belt are turned and turned from the side of the gasket. Seam allowances are cut in the corners, leaving 3-4 mm. The belt is turned inside out, the ends are straightened and baited on a special machine.
After ironing, the belt is connected to the upper cut of the skirt. The inner part of the belt is placed on the wrong side of the skirt, equalizing the cuts and control signs, and stitched along the belt with a seam 10 mm wide, while placing the hanger at the level of the side seams. The belt is turned away, the seam is folded towards the belt, the lower section of the belt is folded inward and stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge so that the edge covers the seam of attaching the inner part of the belt (Fig. 17.16, a). The belt is ready to be ironed.
In products made of thick fabrics and knitted fabrics, the cut of the inner part of the belt is pre-overcast. The belt is sewn to the skirt, equalizing
front sides along the outer part of the belt. The belt is folded to the wrong side and adjusted to the skirt in the stitching seam, securing the inside of the belt (Fig. 17.16.6).
dry cleaning and wet heat treatment.
Figure 17.17 - Processing the top cut of the skirt with a belt
When processing a skirt on a single-needle machine with a special tool, the details of the belt are ground and wound on a cassette. The belt from the cassette is tucked into
The guide is fed under the foot with bent sections between which the upper section of the skirt is inserted and stitched. At the same time, the line is not brought to the ends of the belt by 30-40 mm. The ends of the belt are sewn up without a device, bending the sections inward (Fig. 17.16, c).
When processing on a two-needle machine with a device, the sections of the outer and inner parts of the belt are bent (Fig. 17.16, d).
Options for processing the upper edge of the skirt with corsage braid with hook fasteners (Fig. 17.18, a) or a stitched belt with a zipper (Fig. 17.19, b).
Figure 18.19 - Processing the top edges of the skirt
Processing the bottom cut of the skirt
The bottom of the skirt, depending on the model and properties of the fabric, can be processed in various ways: with a hem seam with a closed cut (Fig. 17.17, a), a hem seam with an open cut overcast (Fig. 17.17.6), edging (Fig. 17.17, c) .
The bottom of the skirt is preliminarily specified according to the pattern and a hemline is applied to the bottom. Then the bottom cut of the skirt is hemmed.
Figure 17.17 - Processing the bottom of the skirt
Skirt finishing
Depending on 01, the skirt is marked and overcast with loops on the belt and finishing details. 11ersd wet-heat treatment removes threads of stitches, cleans off traces of chalk and cleans industrial dust. The folds of the skirt are fastened at a distance of 10 mm from the bottom.
Wet-heat treatment of the skirt is carried out through a moistened pro-ironer from the inside of the skirt, starting with ironing the belt. Then the skirt panel is ironed, starting from the left side seam, without capturing the bottom of the product. And in the process of wet-heat treatment, the product is ironed under the allowances of tucks, seams of folds for removing prints. The skirt is turned on the front side and laid out with the bottom edge to the rmbopioshmu. The upper edge is folded to the side and the bottom is ironed with a gradual movement of the product. The laces are removed from the front side of the skirt and the skirt is steamed. Then sew on buttons and other accessories.
Technical description of the model.
The straight skirt is made of plain-dyed suiting fabric.
Darts and finishing elements along the bottom are located on the front panel.
On the back panel of the tuck, the middle seam, at the bottom of which a slot is made. The zipper is made in the middle seam at the top with a button.
The top cut is processed by turning.
The bottom is a folded seam with an open cut and finished with a finishing line.
Technological sequence for processing
slits on the skirt
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The name of the operation |
Speciality |
Discharge |
Equipment |
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Designate a location |
patterns, chalk |
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Duplicate spline allowances |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Overcast the sections of the middle of the back panels |
51 class, PO "Promshveymash", Podolsk |
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Stitch the middle section of the back panels |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Cut the allowance at the top of the right side of the slots | ||||
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Iron the middle seam |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Iron the right allowance for the slots on the gasket |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Turn the corner of the slots along the line - edges |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Trim the seam allowance of turning | ||||
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Align Right Side Corner | ||||
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Sweep the bottom of the product |
needle, thimble |
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Iron the bottom and slot |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Lay a line along the edge |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Turn the left corner of the slots |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Cut out excess seam | ||||
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Align left corner | ||||
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Sweep the left edge of the slots and the bottom completely |
needle, thimble |
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Iron the left corner and bottom of the product |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Lay the finishing stitch along the bottom and secure the slot with a finishing stitch at an angle of 450 to the center line of the seam |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
Technological operating card
for processing slots in a skirt
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Operation: processing vents in a skirt |
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Specialty R M U Discharge 1.3 1.2 1.2 Norm of time, from 2400 |
Equipment: 1022 class, Orsha JSC, Belarus, 51 class, Promshveymash Production Association, Podolsk, UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky, scissors, needle, thimble, template, chalk |
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Material: suit dyed |
The temperature of the ironing surface is 140 0 С, the Ideal threads are 50-80, the frequency is 2.5 stitches per 1 cm. |
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Performance quality requirements |
Processing scheme |
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Checking the details of the cut: The back half with an average seam - 2 children, cut out with an allowance for a slot width. 4-5cm, length is equal to the length of the slots plus 1.0-1.5cm. Adhesive gasket 2 children. Overcast the sections of the back panel. Outline the slot. On the left side, the edge line should be a continuation of the middle seam. On the right cut line, the slots pass at a distance of 0.7-1.5 cm from the cut. Allowances are duplicated, the left side is 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold of the slots and the bottom line, the right side so that the cut of the gasket does not reach the side cut by 0.7-1.5 cm, to the bottom line 0.1-0, 2 cm and overlapping the line of the middle seam by 1.5-2.0 cm |
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The details of the back halves are folded face inward, equalizing the cuts, grind the middle seam and the top allowance of slots by 0.7-1.5 not reaching the side cut, the width of the seam is 1.0-1.5 cm of the top allowance. An allowance is cut at the top of the right side of the slots without reaching the line of 0.1 cm. The middle seam is ironed through a wet iron. | |
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Process the right side: iron 0.5 cm per gasket. Grind the corner, cut off the allowances and excess. Turn out and sweep the bottom of the skirt, iron it. Along the edge of the slots, a line is laid 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge. |
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Having processed the left corner, turning it at an angle of 450 to the bottom line, they notice the edge of the slots and the bottom of the skirt. Iron through a damp iron until the moisture is completely removed. Lay the finishing line along the bottom of the product and fix it at an angle of 450 to the middle seam, scribble, starting from the middle seam, and finish, not reaching 1.0-1.5 cm to the side allowances of the slots. |
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PROCESSING OF A STRAIGHT SKIRT SECTION.
SIMPLE PATTERN
Mark the bartack with three lines in the form of an equilateral triangle.
It is advisable to lay a machine stitch or a line of small hand straight stitches along the outline of the bartack.
You should start from the lower left corner of the triangle, fasten the end of the thread on the wrong side and bring the needle to the front side of the left corner (point 1 in Fig. 01).
Then, in the upper corner, make a very short stitch from right to left (points 2 and 3), pull the thread to the front side.
Insert the needle into the lower right corner (point 4) and make a stitch from the wrong side, bring the thread out in the left corner just before the first needle puncture (point 5 in Fig. 02).
Perform bartacking in accordance with the presented scheme until the triangle is completely filled with stitches.
Figured simple bartack in the finished form should have the shape of an equilateral triangle (Fig. 04). The stitches must not be tightened, otherwise the bartack will take the form of an asterisk.
FIGURED BACKTACK COMPLEX
Mark the bartack with three lines in the form of an equilateral triangle. Sew a machine stitch or a line of small hand straight stitches along the contour of the bartack.
Carry out a backtack according to fig. 05 and 06.
On fig. 07 shows a complex figure bartack in finished form.
ATTACHING THE SLOTS FROM THE WRONG SIDE
To prevent damage to the product during operation
you can fix the beginning of the slots from the wrong side. To do this, a square is cut out of the lining or top fabric, the length of each side of which is approximately 6 cm. Fold the cut piece diagonally in the form of a triangle. Iron, overcast cuts. The hypotenuse of the resulting triangle has the necessary elasticity, this will avoid tearing the material when the splines are strongly stretched. Sew a triangle on the wrong side of the skirt, laying a line along the edge of the vents in finished form. With blind stitches, hem the triangle allowances to the slot allowances.
PECULIARITIES OF PROCESSING PARTS AND KNOTS WHEN SEWING SKIRTS
Stitching "lightning". When cutting out a skirt, do not forget to make an allowance of 3 - 4 cm for the hem for the "lightning". Most often it is done on the left side. Therefore, do not sew the left side seam to the end, but fasten the line. Attach the zipper foot (single leg) to the sewing machine. You can sew a "zipper" in two ways.
1st way. Under a one-sided fold. With bright threads, lay contour stitches along the side line of the back half of the skirt. With chalk, draw a second line at a distance of 2 - 4 mm (towards the allowance) from the first. Bend the allowance along this line and iron it. Put the resulting fold on the right side of the "zipper". Pay attention to the beginning of the fastener - the zipper should be located 2 cm below the waistline. Baste and then sew the fold close to the teeth. At the same time, pull the "lightning" slightly. Make sure that the line does not go beyond the line of the side (Fig. 15.1, a). Then fold and iron the seam allowance of the front half. Put it on a closed "lightning" and bast to the line marked with a bright thread. Draw a line on the front panel. a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the fold. Baste and stitch the “zipper” along this line (Fig. 15.1, b). Leave a small bulge at the top of the clasp where the lock is located unstitched. Then take out the basting, open the zipper and stitch the top. Erase the chalk and baste the edges of the zipper to the seam allowances on the wrong side.
2nd syob. Under the opposite fold. Bend the allowances of the front and back panels. Attach the resulting folds and baste to the "zipper" so that the teeth are barely visible. Sweep the folds between each other. Stitch the "zipper" at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm from the fold and remove the basting (Fig. 15.1, c).
Iron the zipper and the resulting fold over the ironing pad, placing the iron under the iron.
Hangers for skirts. They are necessary so that the skirts wrinkle as little as possible while in the closet. Hangers can be made from cotton or lining fabric or from flat silk braid 0.7 - 1 cm wide. If you decide to make hangers from fabric, cut 2 lobed strips 10 - 12 cm long and 2.5 - 3 cm wide. fold inside out 0.5 cm, fold the strip in half lengthwise inside out and stitch at a distance of 1 mm from the folded edges. On skirts with a belt, sew the hangers under the belt vertically; on skirts with a bodice, attach them to the bodice ribbon also vertically.
Processing the top cut of the skirt with a stitched belt. The width of such a belt can be different. It depends on the model you choose. The belt can be one-piece or two-piece, that is, with a seam along the fold line. The length of the belt can consist of several parts, just make sure that the seams of the belt coincide with the side seams of the skirt or are located under the belt loops (belt loops). The ends of the belt, as a rule, go one on top of the other and are fastened with a button with a slotted loop or a metal hook with a thread loop. For such a belt, a gasket is required, which can be made from coarse calico, silk corsage ribbon, non-woven fabric, and also from adhesive fabric. Cut out a lining from coarse calico or non-woven fabric without seam allowances and already ready-made belts by 5 mm. Baste it and stitch along the contour to the bottom of the belt 2 - 3 mm below the belt fold line. Cut out the adhesive pad with small allowances and glue both parts of the belt with it. Before basting the belt, baste pre-prepared hangers to the waist line at a distance of 2 cm from the side cuts (see above for making).
The technology for making the belt is quite simple. Measure around your waist and add 1.5 cm for a loose fit. Cut your fabric into a rectangle that measures your waist plus 2.5 cm of loose fitting allowance, plus 9 cm of closure allowance and the seams at the ends of the closure. To determine the width, you can use the iron-on cushioning tape for the belt with marked lines along the entire length. Measure the width of the webbing and add 1.5cm of seam allowance. Iron the gasket along one of the cuts, leave allowances for the seams along the other cut. Overcast or edge over long sections of the belt. The top of the not yet finished skirt should be 1.5 cm larger than the measurements you took for the finished product. This will give you the opportunity to make allowances below the waist line according to the features of your figure. Mark the middle and side seams on the future belt, spreading an additional 2.5 cm into 4 parts of 6 mm among the quarters of the belt. 
Put the belt with the upper part on the skirt face to face, bast and stitch to the upper cut of the skirt, aligning the side seam of the belt (if any) with the side seam of the skirt, evenly distributing the fit and aligning the control marks. Sew the belt to the skirt with a seam 0.5 - 0.7 cm wide along the lining line (15.2). Secure the ends of the stitches with a reverse machine stitch. Iron the seam, stitching the fit of the skirt. Trim the seam allowances to different sizes, the seam allowance on the main fabric should be the largest. Iron the seams towards the waistband. Turn the waistband inward and sew to the hem or seam to catch the long edge of the waistband on the inside of the product. You can hem it with hidden stitches. Sew on the upper end of the hook, and on the bottom loop (see section). If the model has decorative stitching, lay a machine stitch (stitch) on the front side of the belt around the entire perimeter, starting from the bottom edge, while sewing the bottom edge of the inner part of the belt. Position the line at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge. Iron the finished belt from the inside through a damp iron.
Processing the upper cut of the skirt with a piping. If you want to sew a skirt without a belt, the so-called skirt on the hips, its upper cut must be processed with a cut-off hem. First, build a pattern for this stitching. On paper patterns of the front and back panels, fold and glue the depths of the tucks. From the middle line to the side seams, draw lines parallel to the top edge on the front and back panels at a distance of 6 - 7 cm from the top edge. You will receive patterns for cut-off facings along the top edge of the skirt. Transfer the facing patterns to transparent paper, while drawing the direction of the shared thread, the middle lines and other lines. Cut out the details of the facings and cut out the facings from the main fabric and the lining. Connect the facings with the gasket, overcasting their lower sections together. When sewing from a knitted fabric, overcast the lower sections on an overlock; on a woven fabric, the lower sections can either be overcast or wrapped inward to a width of 6 mm and stitched. To the open cut of the facing, baste a braid or rep tape at a distance of 0.3 cm from the cut of the facing. Lay the edge of the facing with the braid face to face on the skirt and stitch. Iron the seam and stitch to the edge on the front side along the facing. Turn the facing to the wrong side and iron the top edge. Wrap the ends of the facings inward and sew to the "lightning" with hidden stitches. Sew the facings either into the side seams or with bartacks to the seam allowances and tuck depths. In the same way, you can process the top cut with a facing. women's trousers without a belt.
Treatment of an incision in an ironed seam. Stitch the seam, and sweep the cut. Then iron the seam and incision, remove the basting threads. Bend the edges of the cut inside out by 0.5 - 0.1 cm and stitch at a distance of 0.2 cm from the folded edge, fold the bottom of the product, not reaching the side cuts by 8 - 10 cm, iron. Bend the cut allowance to the front side along the ironed cut lines and turn the corners of the cut along the bottom hem line. Turn the corners inside out and baste from the seam allowance with straight stitches. After processing the bottom, sew the lower corners of the cut at the width of the bottom hem with blind stitches. From the front side at the top, the slit can be secured with a transverse machine stitch, double or with bartacks at the ends.
Cut processing - slots in the ironed seam. When cutting a skirt with a slot, it is necessary to provide allowances for processing the slots along the middle seam of the back. To do this, give an allowance of 3 - 5 cm or an allowance for a one-sided fold of 6 cm. Bend the allowance to the left side of the panel, sweep and iron. To process the bottom side of the slots, cut out the facing from the lining fabric, overcast its cross section. On the front side of the bottom side of the slots, apply the facing with the right side inward, bast, aligning the cuts. Fold the 2nd partial cut of the facing inside out by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, stitch at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and sew the facing. Process the corners of the slots along the bottom hem line in the same way as the corners of the cut. Secure the upper end of the slots with two transverse or oblique stitches across the entire width of the allowance from the front side along the marked line.
Skirt lining. In order for the skirt to sit better and not stick to the body, you can sew it on the lining. Cut the lining of the skirt according to the details of the main pattern. If the skirt is pleated, when cutting the lining, the folds must be “closed”, that is, laid, and the excess fabric at the waist should be removed into the darts. At the bottom, the lining should be 2 - 3 cm shorter than the skirt. If the skirt does not have slots and cuts, leave cuts in the side seams (15 - 20 cm long) on the lining to ensure freedom of step. If there are slots or cuts on the skirt according to the model, then the cuts on the lining should correspond to them. After all the darts and seams of the lining have been stitched, bast it to the top edge of the skirt, folding the skirt and lining inside out.
Only after that proceed to the processing of the belt. In the place of the cut of the skirt, sew the lining manually or by machine to the allowances (Fig. 15.3, a). In a skirt with a slot, when cutting the lining, provide a seam that should coincide with the line of the allowance for the slot (Fig. 15.3, b). Sew the lining along the continuation of the seam to the allowances for the slot (Fig. 15.3, c). There is also an easier way. Cut out the lining without additional seams, and in the place of the cut or slots, cut out an arched section of fabric to the height of the slots or cut. Overcast the edges of the cutout (its width is 4 - 5 cm), fold it 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch (Fig. 15.3, d). It is not necessary to fix the lining on the incision - it will not be visible when walking. This is a very simple and convenient type of processing.
Processing the bottom of the skirt. If you have a standard figure and you have outlined the exact length of the skirt on the pattern, you can bend the bottom without trying on the skirt and without using the device for drawing the bottom line. If the skirt is straight, fold the edge of the skirt to the specified depth in a straight line and iron the fold by moving the iron along the front. Then, hem the bottom with one of the methods for processing the bottom of the product (see section).
Refine the bottom line, if necessary, after processing the "lightning" in the side seam. Put on the shoes that you are going to wear with this skirt, as well as matching underwear. Stand in front of a large mirror. Using a ruler or a special device, mark the bottom line at the required height (see Fig. 5.15). The bottom hem fold can be fixed with an iron, and then the excess fabric can be trimmed off. After that, lay a securing stitch along the cut and hem the bottom. This can be done by any method of processing the bottom, but it is traditionally customary to use the "goat" seam - it provides a strong and at the same time invisible from the front side hemming of the bottom of the skirt. If frills or wedges go along the bottom of the skirt, the allowance should be folded in very carefully, making sure that it lies flat from the inside, without small assemblies. It is best to carefully tuck the hem in advance. At the seams connecting the panels or wedges, the basting should be interrupted, leaving the long ends of the threads.
Suppose you are processing the bottom on a four-piece skirt. Lay a basting stitch (2 - 3 stitches in 1 cm) at a distance of 0.5 cm from the cut along each wedge, interrupting the stitch at the seams of the connection and starting it again on the next part.
If you are sewing a flared skirt with two side seams, let it “sag” a day or two before attaching it to the shoulders by the belt. Then once again refine the bottom line, bend the allowance, evenly distribute it from the inside out and baste. When sewing a basting stitch, interrupt it several times. Starting from the side seam, fold the skirt along the intended bottom line around the template - for this it is better to use a special ironing template with a rounded edge - and iron the fold, then, moving the template, iron the fold in the middle of the panel, on the other side seam and in the middle of the other panel . In the place where you ironed the fold, start tasting the hem by wrapping the beginning of the thread around the head of the pin, inserted perpendicular to the bottom line. Evenly distributing the allowance, carefully baste it around the circumference of the skirt, then wind the other end of the thread around the pinhead. Iron the fold along the entire length, moving the iron in the direction of the threads. Now you can hem the bottom.
The technology of tailoring godet skirts requires special attention. To properly sew such a skirt, a certain seam treatment is needed, which consists in the following: in skirts with one-piece wedges, straighten (pull back) the curved line of the side seam of the wedge with an iron before sewing them. Or, in the place where the wedges are sewn (at the beginning of their expansion), make cuts, not reaching the stitching line 1 - 2 mm, in skirts with accessory wedges, first connect one side of the stitched wedges with the main wedges of the skirt, and then stitch all the wedges together with the stitched part . Seam width 12 - 15 mm. Iron the stitching seams. Sometimes the seams of the stitched parts of the wedges are ironed together “on edge”, thus creating coattails along the bottom line. In gode skirts for stitched wedges, pleated parts and various other fabrics are used as trim, giving the skirts a special decorative finish. In multi-seam skirts, the wedges can be divided into parts in different directions, which allows you to diversify the models, as well as rationally use the remnants of the fabric.
STRAIGHT SKIRT. PROCESSING AND SEWING SEQUENCE
Take the fabric consumption for such a skirt from the calculation: length plus 10 cm, with a fabric width of 140 - 150 cm.
Open and sew. When cutting, the fractional thread of the skirt should pass through the middle of the front and back panels. Give seam allowances to the cuts: 3 cm to the side seams, 1.5 cm to the top, 5 cm to the bottom hem. Reinforce the waistline and sideline with machine stitching to keep the seams from stretching. Baste the tucks from the ends to the cuts of the parts (to the waist line) and 5 mm above the waist line vertically, but not in the continuation of the tuck (Fig. 15.4, a). Baste all seams. Take on the belt. Try on the skirt. Specify it by width and length. Side and back seams should be vertical. Unravel the skirt and make adjustments to the cut. Overcast open cuts.
Stitch the darts in the opposite direction, reducing the line to nothing, and put the ends of the threads without a knot into the fold of the tuck. Iron the darts: first from the inside along the fold, pulling a little so that the fold of the tuck becomes slightly convex. Lay the folds of the tucks towards the middle of the product and continue to sew the resulting bulge at the end of the tuck. And in order to prevent the tuck from being printed on the front side, place thick paper under its fold. Moisten the area of fabric at the end of the tuck by placing a cloth soaked in water on it and holding the iron over it. Then, slightly gathering this section of fabric with the fingers of your left hand, begin to rearrange the iron from the edges to the center from one area to another until the bulge disappears and the fabric dries (Fig. 15.4, b). 
There are “dry” dense fabrics (with the addition of synthetic fibers), which take a very long time to “fight” when performing the described operation, in several steps as the swelling of the skirt area at the end of the tuck decreases.
Most importantly, don't despair. The key to the fact that the skirt will "sit" perfectly, to a large extent, is a long and high-quality work with an iron. There is a way that excludes the “fight” with “dry” fabrics, carried out with the help of an iron: when cutting, take into account the quality of the fabric and do not make darts with a large solution or replace 1 tuck with a large solution with two with a smaller solution. Side seams and, if any, the middle seams of the back and front, sweep from top to bottom, and sew, on the contrary, from bottom to top, remembering to secure the seam with a reverse machine stitch and leave a slit for the zipper. Iron the seams of the skirt, straightening them in both directions. Place thick paper under the cut edges of the allowances and, when ironing, try not to distort the seam line. Iron the fastener section only in sour cream. Insert the "zipper". Refine the bottom line of the skirt.
The processing of the belt, which should be the next step, is the same for all skirts (except skirts with elastic), it is described in detail above. Hem the bottom of the skirt. This completes the processing of a straight skirt without a cut or slots and lining. For those who decide to sew a straight skirt with these details, the description is given above. But keep in mind that all this must be done before the stages of processing the belt and bottom. Process the cut or slot (see above). Sew the lining in the same sequence as the skirt, remembering to leave room for the zipper. Then join the lining with the skirt wrong sides inward, pinning them together at the waistline, and then basting along the waistline. Attach the lining cut to the “zipper” by hand, carefully bending the seam allowances of the lining to the required size; sew a belt (see above).
"Types of seams" - Stochny seam in ironing. Edging. Finishing. Types of machine seams. Tuning. Scheme of a machine seam. Connecting. Stochny seam in an iron. Regional. Connecting seams. Overhead. Adjustable with an open cut. In the hem. Types of seams. Obtachnye. Hem seam with an open cut. Edge seams. Stochnye. Basic concepts.
"Skirt Designs" - The shape of the skirt has changed many times over the centuries. Then they began to make hoops on hinges. They are presented to clothing for the normal functioning of the human body. Silk linen chiffon poplin satin crepe de chine satin viscose. Rural fashion has always corresponded to the way of peasant life. Now we will define the name of each team.
"Requirements for a skirt" - In the 40s. skirts rise to the knee again. Skirt - similar in shape and cut to the lower part of the dress of various lengths. Performance requirements for clothing. Industrial clothing - designed to be worn in the production environment of various industries. At the beginning of the twentieth century. with the advent of the "modern" silhouette, the skirt is cut flared at the back with an elongated front.
"Perpendicularity of lines" - Perpendicularity of a line and a plane. Perpendicularity of lines and planes. Perpendicular lines in space. Theorem. Crossed. Parallel lines perpendicular to a plane. Plane perpendicularity. Perpendicularity of line and plane Perpendicular and oblique Dihedral angle.
"Production of hangers" - We process the workpiece according to a given contour. When sawing wood with a hacksaw, use the stop. "Guess a riddle". Attention follow the safety regulations. Tools: ruler, pencil, brace, drill? 5mm.? 10mm. Sawing. Drill 2 holes?5mm.?10mm. The creation of hands is a source of pleasure, Heals the soul and fills time.
"Papermaking" - Using a hair dryer, remove the paper from the screen. Khan Batu makes a census of the population of Russia. Let sit for a few hours to soften the paper. In ancient Rome they wrote on wax tablets. 5. Immerse the screen into the resulting solution. 1. Finely tear old paper. 2. Pour torn pieces with warm water.
Outline of the lesson of labor training in grade 7 on the topic: “Processing the side sections of a straight skirt, processing the side seam of a straight skirt with a zipper»
Class: 7th grade
Chapter: sewing a straight skirt
Topic: “Processing the side sections of a straight skirt, processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a zipper braid”
Lesson type: consolidation of knowledge, skills in the performance of practical work; combined.
Lesson Objectives:
- educational: consolidate technical and technological knowledge and improve practical skills in processing the side sections of a straight skirt, processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a braid-zipper.
Tasks: to consolidate students' knowledge about the number and names of details of sections of a straight skirt, about measurements for constructing a drawing of a straight skirt; contribute to the formation of systematic knowledge on the manufacture of clothing.
-nurturing: education of work culture, aesthetic taste.
Tasks: to promote the formation and development of the best personality traits: benevolence, respect, diligence, purposefulness, responsibility for the results of their activities; promote the formation and development of creative activity.
- corrective: correction of psychophysical deficiencies and the social sphere by means of labor, correction of fine motor skills of the hands.
Methods: visual, problem-search, verbal.
Forms: individual.
Tools and fixtures: needle, scissors, thimble, pins, sewing machine, overlocker, ironing board, iron.
Materials: cut of a straight skirt, sewing threads.
Dictionary: straight skirt, skirt panels.
Lesson structure
1. Organization of students to study a new topic
2. Checking the students' assimilation of knowledge of the material of the last lesson (survey, work with patterns)
Actualization and motivation of knowledge and skills of students to study new material.
3. Message of the topic and purpose of the lesson
4. Presentation of new material
Presentation of theoretical material in accordance with the tasks.
Checking the assimilation of knowledge.
5. Doing practical work
Induction training. Stages of practical work, organization of the workplace, safety precautions, requirements for the quality of work.
Independent work of students (practical work).
current instructions.
Checking student work.
6. Summing up the lesson
Checking the assimilation of students' knowledge.
Analysis of the work of students in the classroom
Grading
Homework explanation
7. Cleaning jobs
Activity Lesson Summary
Lesson structure
1. Organizational moment.
Target: mood for the lesson
Good afternoon everyone! And now we smile at each other so that you have a good mood and quietly sit down. So let's start our lesson. (Checking attendance and readiness of students for the lesson).
2. Checking the assimilation of knowledge by students of the material of the last lesson (survey).
Target: actualization of knowledge, development of logical thinking, speech, memory.
Girls! What topic did we study in the last lesson?
(Straight skirt).
Now let's recap a little of what we've been through.
Questions for students:
Which products according to the way of wearing are skirts? (to belt products)
What are skirts by appointment? (everyday, home, sports, uniform, leisure)
What can be cut skirts? (straight, flared, wedge)
What fabrics can be used to make a skirt? (from cotton, linen, woolen and silk fabrics)
What details does the cut of a straight skirt consist of? (front and back panels)
What measurements need to be taken to build a drawing of the base of a straight skirt? (waist circumference, hip circumference, back length to waist, product length)
What is used to process the top cut of the skirt? (belt, corsage ribbon, rubber band). (Students answer questions)
We are clarifying the work plan for sewing a straight skirt.
Work plan for sewing a straight skirt
1. Process the darts.
2. Process the side cuts.
3. Process the clasp.
4. Process the belt.
5. Process the top cut.
6. Process the bottom cut.
7. Iron the finished product.
Straight skirt
And now let's rest a little. Under the text accompaniment, students perform exercises. (- Fizkultminutka)
Well done, my dears! And now we will start studying a new topic.
3. Communication of the topic and purpose of the lesson.
The topic of our today's lesson: "Processing the side sections of a straight skirt, processing the fastener in the side seam of the braid skirt"
Write it down in your workbooks.
Lesson Objectives: consolidate technical and technological knowledge and improve practical skills in processing the side sections of a straight skirt; develop skills in working with a book; education of work culture, aesthetic taste; correction of psychophysical deficiencies and the social sphere by means of labor, correction of fine motor skills of the hands.
4. Presentation of new material. In the last lesson, we processed darts. Since there are four of them in a skirt, therefore, we processed all four.
Today we will process the side cuts of a straight skirt and the processing of the zipper in the side seam of the skirt.
Processing the side cuts of a straight skirt
When connecting the details of the cut with a stitched seam, the cuts of the seam allowances are processed so that they do not crumble. The cuts of the stitched seam can be processed:
a - hand stitches; b - zigzag stitch; c - on an overcasting machine (overlock); g - seam in a hem with an open cut; d - braid; e - edging seam. You and I will process on an overcasting machine (on an overlock).
We will process the side slices in the following sequence:
1. Fold the details of the front and back panels of the skirt right side inward, equalizing the cuts.
2. Sweep the details of the front and back panels of the skirt along the marked lines.
3. Set aside 16 cm on the left side cut from the top cut of the part and draw a horizontal line limiting the length of the fastener.
4. Sew the right side cut from the top cut, and the left side cut from the horizontal line (from the end of the fastener) to the bottom cut. Seam width -
2 cm from the cut of the details.
5. Remove basting threads. Iron the seams.
6. Process the seam sections on the overcasting machine.
7. Moisten the side seams, iron in different directions or iron in the direction of the front panel until it fits completely.
Processing of the side cut of a straight skirt with a braid-zipper. The fastener in a straight skirt can be located in the front, back or in the side seam. More often the fastener is placed in the side seam on the left side. The length of the fastener does not go beyond the line of the hips. To process the fastener, a braid is used - a zipper, as well as hooks, loops, buttons. These devices are called accessories. pp. 98-100 account. "Technology. sewing business
8. Open the zipper braid under the fold of the cut for the fastener on the back panel so that 1 cm remains from the cut of the skirt to the beginning of the links, and on the side the fold line approaches the edge of the links. Baste the zipper from top to bottom to the end of the fastener at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold with straight stitches 0.5 cm long
9. Close the zipper. Baste its second side, directing the fold of the front panel to the fold of the back panel so that they match.
10. Sew a zipper braid on the front side from the upper cut of the front panel to the upper cut of the back panel, laying a line along the front panel at a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm from the fold, and along the back panel, retreating 0.2 cm from the fold. Delete note.
Quality control: machine stitching is even, laid at the distance indicated above from the folds of the front and back panels.
4. Doing practical work.
Target: the formation and consolidation of skills in processing the side sections of a straight skirt.
Induction training. Before starting work, you must carefully read the instructions and repeat the safety rules. Let's find out together what tools, fixtures and materials will be needed for the job and what safety rules we need to follow.
I will give you riddles, and you guess:
I'm a one-legged old woman
I'm jumping on the canvas
And a long thread from the ear,
like a web I pull. (Needle)
(Repeat the rules for safe needle handling).
Experienced tool
Not big, not small. He has a lot of worries. He cuts and shears. (Scissors)
(Repeat the rules for safe work with scissors).
In a woolen meadow
Dancing thin-legged,
From under a steel shoe
The stitch comes out. (Sewing machine)
(Repetition of TB rules when working on a sewing machine, on an overlock).
It will smooth out all wrinkles. Just don't touch him, He's hot as fire. (Iron)
(Repetition of TB rules when working with an iron).
After we figured out what is needed for the job, what actions need to be taken? (Children's answers.)
- That's right, you should organize your workplace, removing all unnecessary and arranging the necessary items rationally. Perform site preparation. (Organization by students of their workplaces.)
Do you have any questions about practical work? If there are no questions, we proceed to the task, do not forget to control our actions. We work using the instruction card.
Independent work of students. Students do practical work. They pronounce their actions, control the implementation of actions and technical conditions according to the instructions.
current instruction. I control the organization of the workplace, the correctness of the work, compliance with safety regulations. During the work, students are given help, mistakes are corrected.
Summing up the lesson.
Target: formation of skills of self-control, mutual control.
Questions for students:
1. Why does the seam cut of the product need to be processed? (Sections of the seams of the product must be processed so that they do not crumble)
2. Where can a zipper be located in a skirt? (The zipper in the skirt can be located in the front, back or in the side seam)
3. What can be used to process the fastener? (Zipper, hooks, loops and buttons are used to process the fastener)
Final briefing.
As the work is completed, accept and evaluate the products made by students. Analyze the typical mistakes students make when doing work.
Evaluation of the results of students' work, selection of the best works, analysis of the mistakes made and analysis of the reasons that caused them.
Workplace cleaning.
For 3 min. before the end of the lesson I announce: “We are putting our workplaces in order. We put the tools in place. We check the number of needles in the needle bed. (students clean their workspaces).
The lesson is over. Thank you for your attention. I control the cleanliness of the workplace.
The technological process of manufacturing garments is the processing and assembly of parts and assemblies in a certain sequence. The technological sequence of processing products is understood as a list of technologically indivisible operations corresponding to the order in which they are performed in the manufacture of parts and assemblies of the product, indicating the specialty, equipment used, fixtures, technical conditions.
1. Preparation of fabric for cutting (for any product). Some fabrics in the process of wet-heat treatment (ironing), washing are subject to shrinkage. To avoid this, the fabric must be decatered before cutting (carry out wet-heat treatment).
- determination of the front side of the fabric (t The rope is usually doubled in a roll. Woolen fabrics are folded with the right side inward, and silk ones are folded outward. On the edge of the fabric, the punctures are directed from the wrong side to the front side of the fabric. All weaving defects are usually displayed on the wrong side of the fabric.
- inspect fabric for defects(on the front surface of the fabric there should not be: foreign fibers, short thickening of the threads, the absence of one or more warp or weft threads, different shades. There should be no defects in the color of the fabric. Mark all detected defects with soap or chalk on the wrong side of the fabric. Pay attention on them when cutting.
-determination of the direction of the share thread(The warp thread is directed along the edge of the fabric. When laying out patterns, try to avoid deviating from the direction of the warp thread.
-determining the direction of the drawing(if the pattern is directed in one direction, then lay out the patterns and cut out the details of the product in one direction.
If the fabric is smooth, does not have a one-sided pattern, then the pattern details can be laid out in different directions, but the direction of the warp threads must be taken into account.
On fabrics with large polka dots, the middle of the front and the middle of the back should pass through the center of the pea.
On fabrics with a large pattern, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the shelf and back coincides with the middle of the pattern. Pay attention to its symmetry!
On checkered or striped fabrics, determine if the checkers or stripes are symmetrical or not. If they are not symmetrical, then lay out the patterns in one direction.
On striped fabrics, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the shelf and back coincides with the middle of the central strip!
On small parts (valves, etc.), the stripes must match the stripes on the main parts.
Stripes should be placed symmetrically at the ends of the collar, lapels.
2. Layout of patterns on fabric, cutting
1. Fold the fabric in half, right side inward, align the edges. So that the fabric does not move when cutting, you can chop it with pins inside the contour of the parts.
2. First, lay out large parts (front, back, sleeves) on the fabric, then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Achieve an economical layout of patterns on fabric.
3. To the fold of the fabric, place the details that are given on the pattern in half size. After cutting out, you get a solid part
4. Draw long lines first, then short and oval ones. The lines must be straight. You can use rulers and patterns to trace the lines accurately and evenly.
5. Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) can warp during trimming and cutting. Be sure to pin them with pins.
6. After chalking the contour of the parts, mark on the fabric the location of the lines of the middle of the part, the half-slip line, the location of the first loop, pockets, darts, folds. After chalking the parts, mark the seam allowances
7. Cut the fabric strictly according to the seam allowances, holding the cut allowance in your hand (due to this rule, the layers of the parts to be cut out do not shift).
8. Do not forget that when cutting loose fabrics, the size of the seam allowances must be increased!
Pattern layout of a straight skirt on fabric with a directional pattern
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric 140 cm wide
b
without a seam and with a seam on the back panel.
3. Preparing the skirt for fitting.
1. Laying guide lines and copy stitches on symmetrical parts or sides, along the lines of the middle of the front and back panels, waist, waist, hips.
2. Duplicate allowances for slots, fasteners, lay adhesive edges.
3. Sweep and sweep tucks, folds, reliefs.
4. Sweep and sweep the side and middle sections of the skirt.
5. Sweep the bottom of the skirt.
6. Perform wet-heat treatment of the product
7. Duplicate and prepare a belt or corsage ribbon.
4. Fitting
1. Put the product on the figure of the customer. Break or fasten the clasp. Refine the balance of the product on the figure by aligning the skirt with the figure of the customer along the waist and hips.
2. Check the width of the product in the waist, hips, by pinning or pinning the side seams. Specify the size and direction of the darts. Specify the length of the slot.
3. Refine the line of attaching the belt by pinning a belt or corsage ribbon to half of the skirt. Specify the length of the skirt.
5. Making changes, clarification. Straight stitches are laid along the marked chalk lines. Mark new lines of seams and interrupt or perforate them to the other side of the parts.
6. Processing of tucks. Darts allow you to bring the shape of clothing closer to the shape of a human figure. Sew along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the tuck by 0.1 ml. from the dash line. Press the darts towards the middle of the part. The slack in the fabric at the ends of the tucks is sutured.
7. Processing of the side sections of the skirt. The seams in the skirts are treated with stitched seams (inflated, ironed), stitched and linen seams. The choice of seams depends on the model and on the type of fabric.
8. Processing slots in the middle seam of the skirt
Duplication of allowances under the slot.
Right slot allowance Left slot allowance
Overcast each separately If the skirt is unlined, then the left allowance
middle cut and cuts slots. bend the slots and iron them 1-1.2 cm.
Sweep seam cuts and slots.
Stitch the middle edge and the top edges of the slots. Fixing allowances splines
Iron the middle sections above the slots. 2nd finishing line.
Press the slot on the left side.
9. The base of the upper and lower sections of the skirt. The skirt is cut off at the seams, darts in half along the right front side. The upper cut is specified or cut with an allowance of 1-1.5 cm for attaching the belt. Refine or cut the lower sections of the skirt, mark the line of the allowance for processing the lower sections of 3 cm (with soap, and then with straight stitches).
10. Processing the fastener with a zipper.
Concealed zipper processing
11. Processing the top cut of the skirt with a belt.
1. Doubling the skirt belt
2. Processing the skirt belt
a - turning the ends of the skirt belt;
b - belt processing
Basting and stitching the finished belt to the top edge of the skirt
1 - the middle of the front panel; The overcast section of the subbelt is sewn into the seam
2 - side seam; attaching a belt or along a belt at a distance
3 - the middle of the back panel 0.1-0.2 cm from its fold (line 2).
12. Bottom cut in a skirt processed with various types of edge seams. Most commonly used: hem seam (open or closed cut). The choice of seams depends on the model and on the type of fabric.
Features of processing a lined skirt
1. The lining of the skirt is cut according to the patterns of the top, with allowances for processing and freedom, and an allowance is added along the side seam to the part of the back panel at the level of the slots and below, for subsequent stitching it to the allowances of the slots.
2. The back panel of the skirt can be cut with a fold, as the lining material has a strong thread separation due to the thinness of the material. At the level of the fastener, the lining must be cut out in the form of a droplet, the sections of which are overcast, folded over by 0.5 cm and stitched 0.1 cm from the folded edge. The edges of the droplet are hemmed over the zipper with hidden stitches. If the back panel of the lining is cut with a seam, then the lining can be sewn to the fastener allowances.
3. The side sections of the lining are treated with a stitched seam. The darts on the lining are not ground down, but laid in folds in opposite directions from the darts.
4. The sections of attaching the lining to the belt are overcast together with the section of the belt. Hangers are inserted above the side seams when sewing the lining, which are prepared from the lining or use ribbons 0.5 cm wide.
5. The lower section of the skirt is treated with a hem seam with a closed section.On the bottom, the lining should be 2-3 cm shorter than the skirt.
6. If the skirt does not have slits and slits, leave slits in the side seams (15-20 cm long) on the lining to ensure freedom of step.
7. If there are slots or cuts on the skirt according to the model, then the cuts on the lining should correspond to them.
8. The simplest and most convenient type of processing is to cut an arcuate section of the fabric to the height of the slot or cut. Overcast the edges of the cutout (its width is 4 - 5 cm), fold it 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch.There are more professional processing methods (see diagrams above).
Ways of processing the lining over the slot, incision.
Processing the lining over the cut Processing the lining above the slot
Ways to process the lining over the slot
Technological sequence of processing a straight skirt
p/nName of a technologically indivisible operation
Type of work, specialty
Applied equipment, tools, fixtures
Technical conditions and requirements for the operation
1.
Stitch tucks on p / p and c / p skirts.
M
GC188 MD
Sew along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the tuck by 0.1 ml. from the dash line.
2.
Iron darts
At
PGU-1-120"ELEGANT" - Ironing unit
Figured semicircular block
Press the darts towards the middle of the part. The slack in the fabric at the ends of the tucks is sutured.