Modeling lesson: dresses for different types of figures. Back midline

01.10.2019

Description of appearance

Women's casual dress, semi-adjacent silhouette, with a basic cut sleeve, cut-off along the waist line with a zipper in the middle seam of the back.

The adjoining silhouette shape of the product is provided by the shaping elements (darts) on the shelf, back, front and back parts of the skirt (see Fig.), As well as the middle seam of the back. For ease of use, the dress is provided with zippers: one long along the middle seam of the back, or two - in the middle seam of the back and in the left side seam.

Note: The dress can be made not cut along the waist line.

1. When printing a pattern in A4 format, check the "Actual size" checkbox (or uncheck the "Fit to page" checkbox) in the print settings. Print a test page, measure the square-sample - it should be 10x10 cm.After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the order shown: the letters (A / B / C +) represent the column, and the numbers (01/02/03 +) - the row ... The first (top left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.

2. When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in AdobeReader (or FoxitReader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the "Poster" print mode in the "Adjusting page size and handling" section. Make sure the Segment Scale box is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Clipping Tags, Labels, and Split Large Pages Only. If you have any questions, check out our FAQ page!

Parts list

MAIN MATERIAL

Shelf - 1 piece (folded)
Back - 1 piece 9 with a fold)
Sleeve - 2 parts (with or without a dart)
The front of the skirt - 1 piece
The back of the skirt - 2 pieces
Shelf neck facing - 1 piece
Back neck facing - 2 parts

The width of the facing of the neck of the shelf and back is 4 cm.

When cutting, add 1 cm allowances for seams, 0.7 cm along the cutting line of the neck of the shelf and back, 4 cm along the bottom of the sleeve, 3 cm along the bottom line.

To make a dress you will need:

- about 20 cm of adhesive cushioning material (at a width of 90 cm);

- two hidden zippers (16-18 cm and 20-24 cm) or one (45 - 50) cm

Average consumption of base material depends on the size of the product and the width of the material. For products of medium and large size, one product length will be required (measured along the back from the seventh cervical vertebra) + sleeve length (from the shoulder point) with a material width of 140 cm.

Options for the layout of cut details

A variant of the layout of patterns on the material in a spread

A variant of the layout of the patterns on the material in the fold along the warp thread

Technological sequence of dress processing

The processing technology of the product (the operations performed and the sequence) largely depends on the properties of the selected material, its thickness and crumbling.

Therefore, the technological sequence of processing for this product will be presented in a tabular form, which will allow you to see the main differences in processing a product made of light (thin) and heavy (thick) materials.

Attention! The technological sequence is given for a cut-off dress along the waist line with two zippers

(in the middle seam of the back and the left side seam)

Lightweight (thin) materials	Heavy (thick) materials
Neck facing blank 1. Duplicate the trims of the neckline (front and back) with hot-melt glue material. 2. Sew the details of the facing of the neckline (front and back) along the shoulder cuts. Iron the seam allowances. 3. Neaten the bottom and side cuts of the finished neck piping. Shelf processing 4. Stitch upper (shoulder) darts on the shelf. Press the allowances towards the center. 5. Stitch waist darts on the shelf. Press the allowances towards the center. (fig. 1) Rice. 1 Back treatment 6. Neaten the middle cut of the left and right back. 7. Stitch waist darts on the back. Iron the allowances in the direction of the middle cut. 8. Mark the end of the zipper with a reference mark along the middle edge of the backrest. 9. Stitch right and left back from bottom line to control mark. Iron the seam allowances. 10. Sew blind zipper tape into the middle seam of the back. Note: To make it easier to perform this operation, use the advice. In the hidden zipper tape, the zipper teeth are at an angle of 90 ° to the tape. If you press it open before stitching in a hidden zipper, i.e. align the arrangement of the teeth with the plane of the braid, then it will be much easier to stitch the zipper. Skirt blank 11. Overcast the middle cut of the right and left rear of the skirt. 12. Stitch darts at the front of the skirt.
13. Press the dart towards the center.	To reduce the finished thickness, iron the allowances in the opposite direction, i.e. in the direction of the side slices.
14. Stitch darts at the back of the skirt.
15. Press the dart towards the middle seam.	To reduce the finished thickness, iron the allowances in the opposite direction, i.e. to the side cuts.
16. Stitch the right and left sides of the skirt along the middle cut. Iron the seam allowances.
17. Stitch the front and back of the skirt along the right side cut. 18. Neaten the sections and press them towards the back. 19. Neaten the left edge of the front of the skirt. 20. Overcast the left edge of the back of the skirt. 21. Mark the end of the zipper tape with a control mark. 22. Stitch the front and back of the skirt along the left edge from the control mark to the bottom. 23. Iron the seam allowances.	Neaten the side cuts of the front and back of the skirt. Stitch the front and back of the skirt along the right side cut. Iron the seam allowances. On the left side, mark the end of the zipper tape with a control mark. Stitch the front and back of the skirt along the left edge from the control mark to the bottom. Iron the seam allowances.
Sleeve processing 24. Stitch darts on sleeves. Press the allowances down.
25. Stitch the sleeves along the bottom cut, neaten the cuts, seam allowances iron.	Overcast sleeves. Stitch the sleeves along the hem. Seam allowances iron out.
Installation of the product
26. Stitch the front and back along the shoulder cuts. 27. Neaten the sections and press them towards the back.	Neaten the shoulder sections of the front and back. Stitch the front and back along the shoulder cuts. Iron the seam allowances.
28. Stitch over the cut of the dress neckline with a stitching (fig. 2). Press the seam allowances towards the facing. Fig. 2 29. Stitch over facing seam allowances on the facing. Fasten the piping along the side cuts to the middle seam allowances of the backrest. 30. Iron the neckline of the dress when finished.
31. Stitch the front and back along the right side cut. 32. Sweep the cuts and iron towards the back. 33. Neaten the left edge of the shelf. 34. Neaten back left edge. 35. Mark the beginning of the zipper tape with a control mark (usually at a distance of 5-8 cm from the top). 36. Stitch the shelf and back along the left edge from the top to the control mark. 37. Iron the seam allowances.	Neaten the right and left edge of the shelf. Neaten right and left back cuts. On the left side, mark the beginning of the zipper tape with a control mark (usually at a distance of 5-8 cm from the top). Stitch the front and back along the right side cut. Stitch the shelf and back along the left side cut from the top to the control mark. Side seam allowances iron out.
38. Stitch the top and bottom of the dress along the waist line. 39. Neaten cuts. 40. Sew a hidden zipper into the left side seam. 41. Press on the finished knot. 42. Sew in, then sew in the sleeves into the armholes. 43. Neaten cuts. 44. Mark the line at the bottom of the sleeves.
45. Topstitch the hem of the sleeve with a closed hem hem.	Overcast sleeve hem. Sweep over the hem of the sleeve. Hem the sleeve with blind stitches.
46. Mark the line of the bottom of the dress. Sweep.
47. Sew the bottom of the dress with a hem seam with a closed cut.	Overcast the bottom edge of the product. Sweep the allowance for processing the bottom of the dress. Hem the dress with blind stitches.
48. Iron the dress in finished form.

Before you start sewing any product, first of all, you should build a basic pattern.

The basic dress pattern, which we will consider today, can be used to model all kinds of dresses, blouses, jackets and even coats.

As an example, the calculation and construction of the basic dress pattern will be performed on a figure with the following measurements:

Dimensional sign	Designation	Size (cm)
Semicircle of the neck	SS	17,5
Semi-girth of the chest first	SG 1	44,5
Semi-girth of the second	SG 2	43
Semi-girth of the third	SG 3	42,5
Waist semicircle	ST	34
Semicircle of the thighs	Sat	47
Hip height	WB	18
Back waist length	TPA	39,5
Length of the product	Diz	100
Back width	SHS	16,5
Armhole height	Vpr	19
Shoulder length	DPL	12
Back shoulder tilt	NPC	40
Chest height	VG	25
First chest width	SHG 1	18
Second chest width	SHG 2	16,5
Distance between the centers of the mammary glands	RC	9
Tuck mortar level	URV	7,5
Front shoulder tilt	NPP	23,5
Front waist length	Road accident	43

The measurements taken from the figure are not yet the dimensions of the product parts, especially since they are taken off the same for all types of clothing. Therefore, when constructing a drawing of the base, in addition to the measurements taken, allowances for free fitting are taken into account, by which it is necessary to expand the details of the product in certain areas of measurements.

The increase is not a constant value, it does not depend on the size of the figure and changes in accordance with the direction of fashion, the purpose of the clothes, the property of the fabric, etc.

The increase provides freedom of breathing, movement, or serves to create a silhouette of clothing.

The close-fitting (fitted) silhouette emphasizes the waistline, straight - hides the shape of the figure, semi-flying - slightly emphasizes them, free - creates a flying shape, extended from the shoulder line or armhole, with the formation of folds.

Free fit table (CO)

Silhouette	SG 1	SHS	SHG 1	ST	Sat	Vpr
Adjoined	0,5-1	0,6-0,8	0	1-1,5	0,5-1	1,5
Semi-adjacent	1,5-2	0,8-1	0-0,3	2-3	1-1,5	2
Straight	2,5-3	1-1,5	0,5-0,8	4-5	2-3	2,5
Free	3,5	1,5-2	0,8-1,5	by model

Building the back of the dress

1. Construct a right angle with the apex at point P, from which to lay down vertically:

Armhole depth level: RG = measurement VPr + CO = 19 cm + 2 cm = 21 cm

Waist line position: RT = measurement DTS = 39.5 cm

Product length: PH = measurement DIz = 100 cm

Position of the hip line: TB = measurement WB = 18 cm

Draw horizontals to the left through all the obtained points.

2. Back neck width: PP 1 = 1/3 measurements of the US + 0.5 cm = 1/3 17.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 6.3 cm

For figures with fat deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra or developed muscles in the shoulder girdle: PP 1 = 1/3 of the SS + 1-1.5 cm.

3. Neck depth: PP 2 = 1/3 Neck width = 1/3 6.3 cm = 2 cm.

Or the depth of the neck is equal to the difference in the measurements of the DTS - DTS 1,

where TTP is a measure of the length of the waist of the back, measured from the point of the base of the neck to the waist along the back, and TTP 1 is from the 7th cervical vertebra.

At point P 2, draw the neck at a right angle.

4. Back width:ГГ 1 = measure ШС + СО = 16.5 cm + 1 cm = 17.5 cm.

5. Full armhole width: WR = (SG 1 + CO) - (WS + CO) - (WG 1 + CO) = (44.5 cm + 1.5 cm) - (16.5 cm + 1 cm) - (18 cm + 0, 3 cm) = 10.2 cm.

6. Side seam position: G 1 G 2 = 1/2 WR = 1/2 10.2 cm = 5.1 cm.

In products adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes the side seam is located in the middle of the armhole.

Also, the side seam can be located 1/3 of the width of the armhole from G 1 to the left.

For full figures the position of the side seam is 1/2 of the entire width of the armhole minus 1 cm.

In raglan, shirt, kimono cut products, the side seam is always located in the middle of the armhole.

From G 2 we lower the vertical down, we get T 1, B 1.

7. Building the shoulder slice

From R 1 with a radius equal to the DPL measure + the size of the tuck solution, an arc is drawn. From T with a radius equal to the measurement of the NPC, a notch is made on the first arc. At the intersection of these arcs, we obtain point P.

R 1 P = DPL measure + tuck solution = 12 cm + 2 cm = 14 cm.

TP = measurement NPS = 40 cm.

The solution of the shoulder tuck is determined depending on the posture of the figure and the structure of the fabric.

Draw a vertical line from P up to the intersection with the horizontal, we get P 1. Divide the segment PP 1 in half and connect the division point with a thin line with P 1. On a thin line from P 1, postpone 1/3 of the DPL measurements, we get a point v.

R 1 v= 1/3 12 cm = 4 cm.

Note. For figures with protruding shoulder blades, the dart is placed closer to the middle of the shoulder; for figures with a curvature of the back in the spine, they are moved towards the neck of the back or placed in it.

From v mark the depth of the groove along a thin line: cc 1 = 2 cm.

The direction of the darts depends on the model, but they are usually placed parallel to the middle of the back. The length of the dart is 7-10 cm, depending on the depth: the deeper the dart, the longer it is.

The sides of the undercut are equalized on the larger side: cc 2 = v 1 v 2 = 8 cm.

Connect straight point v 1 with P.

8. Armhole back

Draw a horizontal line from point P to the right and at the intersection with the vertical from G 1, we obtain P 2.

Armhole control point: G 1 O = G 1 P 2/3 + 2 cm = 16.5 cm / 3 + 2 cm = 7.5 cm.

Set aside along the bisector of the angle Г 1: Г 1 О 1 = 0.2 Width of the armhole + 0.5 cm = 0.2 10.2 cm + 0.5 cm = 2.5 cm.

Note. For a stooped figure, this segment is increased by 0.5 cm, for an exaggerated figure, it is reduced by 0.5 cm.

Draw the backrest with a smooth line through points P, O, O 1, G 2.

9. Building the waist line

Deflection at the waist along the side cut: T 1 T 2 = 2 cm.

Raising the waistline on the side: T 2 T 3 = 1 cm.

For cut-off products at the waist, the increase is 0 cm, and the bodice waist line runs horizontally TT 2.

10. Make a side seam of the back with a concavity of 0.3-0.5-0.7 cm through points Г 2 Т 3.

11. Extension along the hip line:(SB + CO) - (SG 1 + CO) = (47 cm + 1.5 cm) - (44.5 cm + 1.5 cm) = 2.5 cm

If the line of the side seam divides the armhole in half, then the total extension along the hips equal to 2.5 cm is also divided in half. If the width of the armhole of the back was taken as 1/3 of the entire armhole, then the extension along the hips of the back is also equal to 1/3 of the total extension.

B 1 B 2 = 1/2 2.5 cm = 1.3 cm.

12. Back width at the bottom: NN 1 = BB 2 + 1 cm

Or, from point B 2, lower the vertical (for a narrowed product) and expand by the desired amount.

For a stooped figure, the width along the bottom line is equal to the width along the hip line: НН 1 = BB 2

13. Make a smooth line of the thigh with a bulge of 0.5-0.7-1 cm through the points T 3, B 2, H 1.

14. The depth of the solution of darts at the waist and their number depends on the silhouette of the product and the characteristics of the physique. In products of straight and extended silhouettes, darts at the waist are not provided.

General solution of darts: (SG 1 + CO) - (CT + CO) = (44.5 cm + 1.5 cm) - (34 cm + 2 cm) = 10 cm.

From the difference obtained, you need to subtract the amount of deflection along the side seam of the back equal to 2 cm (point 9) and along the side seam of the shelf 2 cm.

10 cm - 4 cm = 6 cm - the sum of the tackle darts of the back and the shelf.

For a proportional figure, the depth of the tackle tuck along the shelf is greater than along the back, and then from 6 cm, approximately 2/3 is taken to the shelf, and 1/3 to the back.

Note. For figures with protruding buttocks, the depth of the darts at the waist should be increased along the back.

For figures with protruding hips, the deflection at the waist should be increased along the side sections of the front and back.

For figures with a protruding belly, you can refuse to build a front dart, and if it is necessary, then it should be made to the minimum size.

15.Dart position on the back

Divide the distance ГГ 1 in half and from this point draw the line of the center of the dart parallel to the line of the middle of the back down to the hips.

Tuck solution: T 4 T 5 = 1/3 6 cm = 2 cm.

The length of the dart at the top is 3 cm below the chest level, at the bottom it is 3 cm above the hip line.

Building a dress shelf

It is better to build a drawing of the dress shelf opposite the drawing of the back.

16. Construct a right angle with the apex at the point P 3, from which to postpone down the vertical: P 3 T 6 = measure of the accident = 43 cm.

17. Lowering the waist line: T 6 T 7 = 1 cm (for products cut off at the waist).

For figures with a large protrusion of the abdomen, this segment increases by 1-1.5 cm.

If the product is not cut-off at the waist, then the decrease is 0 cm.

18.Move from the backrest drawing:

chest line: Т 6 Г 3 = segment ГТ = 18.5 cm
thigh line: T 6 B 3 = segment TB = measure WB = 18 cm.
product length: T 6 H 2 (T 7 H 2) = TH = 60.5 cm

Draw horizontals to the right through all the obtained points.

19. The width of the neck of the shelf: R 3 R 4 = 1/3 of the US measurement + 0.5 cm = 1/3 17.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 6.3 cm.

20. Neck depth: R 3 R 5 = Neck width + 1 cm = 6.3 cm + 1 cm = 7.3 cm.

21. Shelf width: D 3 D 4 = measure WG + CO = 18 cm + 0.3 cm = 18.3 cm.

22. Side seam position: D 4 D 5 = 1/2 WR = 1/2 10.2 cm = 5.1 cm (item 5, 6).

Draw a vertical down from G 5, at the intersection we get T 8, B 4.

23. From Г 3 to the right horizontally to postpone the distance to the center of the chest: Г 3 Г 6 = measurement РЦ = 9 cm.

24. Building a bust dart:

a) connect the straight line P 4 with G 6 and extend it downward;

b) postpone from P 4 in a straight line: P 4 C = measure VG = 25 cm (the first side of the breast dart);

c) from C up the line to postpone the measurement of the URV.

TSU = 7.5 cm;

d) from Y to the right horizontally, set aside the solution of the chest tuck: YU 1 = SG 1 - SG 2 = 44.5 cm - 43 cm = 1.5 cm.

e) from point C through Y 1, draw up the second side of the dart with a length equal to the length of the segment P 4 Ts.

25. Construction of the shoulder cut of the shelf

From P 6, with a radius equal to the DPL measure, an arc is drawn. From C with a radius equal to the measurement of the NPP, a notch is made on the first arc. At the intersection of these arcs, we get point P 3.

R 6 P 3 = measurement DPL = 12 cm.

CPU 3 = measurement of GMP = 23.5 cm.

Connect straight line P 6 with P 3 - the shoulder cut of the shelf is obtained.

26. Armhole shelf

Armhole control point: G 4 O 2 = 1/3 (G 1 P 2 - 0.5 cm) = 1/3 (16.5 cm - 0.5 cm) = 5.3 cm.

Set aside along the bisector of the angle Г 4: Г 4 О 3 = 0.2 Width of the armhole = 0.2 10.2 cm = 2 cm.

Note. For a stooped figure, this segment is reduced by 0.5 cm, for an exaggerated figure, it is increased by 0.5 cm.

Connect the straight line P 3 with O 2, divide the segment in half and draw a perpendicular 0.5-1 cm to the left.

I will pass the shelves through points P 3, 0.5-1, O 2, O 3, G 5.

27. Building the waist line

Deflection at the waist along the side cut: T 8 T 9 = 2 cm.

Raising the waistline at the side: T 9 T 10 = 1 cm.

If the product is cut-off at the waist, then the increase is 0 cm, and the bodice's waist line passes through T 7 T 9.

28. Make the side seam of the shelf with a concavity of 0.3-0.5-0.7 cm through the points G 5 T 10.

29. Extension along the hip line: B 4 B 5 = B 1 B 2 = 1.3 cm

30. Bottom shelf width: H 2 H 3 = B 3 B 5 + 1 cm

Or, from point B 5, lower the vertical down and expand by the desired amount. The amount of expansion should be the same as for the back.

31. Tuck position on the shelf

The axis of the front dart runs through the center of the chest.

Tuck solution: T 11 T 12 = 2/3 6 cm = 4 cm (point 14).

The length of the dart at the top is 3 cm below the C point, at the bottom it is 4-5 cm above the hips.

The gap of the dart on the shelf should not exceed 3.5 cm (for dry fabric) or 4 cm (for soft fabric). If it turns out more, then a second additional dart is introduced.

An additional dart is placed in the middle of the G 6 G 5 segment and, in terms of its solution and length, it is less than the main one, and then:

solution of the main tuck: T 11 T 12 = 2/3 4 cm = 2.5 cm
additional tuck solution: T 13 T 14 = 1/3 4 = 1.5 cm

The length of the additional dart is 1-2 cm shorter than the main one.

The pear-shaped figure is very feminine, but sometimes it brings the owner some difficulties when choosing a ready-made dress due to the difference in the girth of the hips and chest. Don't be upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neckline, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrast inserts running along the dress and visually modeling the figure, as well as a little High waist, heels and tights to match the shoes will make you slimmer. We try to avoid decorations in the area of hips, patch pockets, draperies, cross stripes and large prints.

photo from the site, http://www.chieflady.com/

For an example of modeling, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on a pattern based on an adjacent silhouette. The style is interesting in that the model lines that form the silhouette are the best and most advantageous way to demonstrate the female figure of the lower type. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help to visually hide the width of the hips, and the white, expanding silhouette at the top will highlight the slimmer silhouette. But, here it is impossible to be too clever with excessive narrowing of the skirt and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to widen the skirt a little towards the bottom.

photo from the site http://www.stylishwife.com/

Modeling. On the details of the pattern of the back and the shelf, draw model lines of reliefs passing from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts, on the back, transfer part of the solution to the middle line of the back, for the best fit in this area. Open the bust dart in the armhole, read more about transferring the darts. It remains only to outline the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the waist and hip girth is large and the solutions of the darts for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the dart must be split into two, otherwise ugly creases in the waist area will appear in the finished product.

In the second version of modeling, we propose to expand the skirt to the bottom, make it the so-called A-shaped silhouette, you can also make the dress cut-off at the waist.

MODELING A DRESS FOR THE INVERTED TRIANGLE FIGURE

Your strong point is narrow hips and long, slender legs. We focus on them. All decor, bright prints - down to the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, here raglan sleeves will help us, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear fluffy wide skirts, skirts or trousers with a peplum, straight cut dresses, but not too voluminous and wide, with vertical seams or trim.

photo from the sites http://refinedstylefashion.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/pin/454089574910263523/ http://stylowi.pl/

As an example, we will analyze the modeling of a pattern of a simple dress suitable for this type of figurus. The model has a fitted sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut-off along the waist line, there are two opposite folds on the front panel of the skirt, and a slit is made on the back panel of the skirt.

photo from the site http://snowqueen.ru/

We begin modeling by applying the basic pattern of the adjacent silhouette to the relief lines on the details of the back and the shelf (if you want a greater fit or the fabric is knitted, you can use the base pattern of the adjacent silhouette). We will arrange the thallium darts on the front panel of the skirt into folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the darts vertically downward, move the parts apart so that in the upper part we obtain a solution approximately equal to 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom, keep the volume of the skirt in its original form.

MODELING OF THE DRESS FOR THE "HOURGLASS" FIGURE

The "hourglass" type of figure is the most feminine, it is he who is rightfully considered a standard for imitation and we try to bring our figure closer to it, at least with the help of clothes. Lucky women with this type of physique. The main advice is to focus on the waist, so you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Neckline, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos - this is your win-win image.

photo from sites http://www.asos.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/NatalieYoung29/

Let's simulate such a simple dress, in two versions.

photo taken from sites

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very effective. For modeling, we need a pattern for the base of an adjacent silhouette and a pattern for a sleeve. Cut-off dress along the waist line, the skirt is widened to the bottom. The darts for fitting the chest are transferred into the neckline: in the first version, the darts from the neck are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version, the darts on the chest are distributed in folds extending from the neckline, there are no sleeves.

Modeling. 1 step - on the details of the back, the dart for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because the neckline of the back is deep enough and widened, but the size of the solution must be removed from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For the convenience of modeling, we will transfer the dart on the shelf to the armhole. Cut the details of the skirt pattern lengthwise from the darts down.

Next, step 2 of the simulation. Draw a new line for the neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the tallium dart on the shelf to the neckline, and we will also transfer the dart from the armhole there. Learn more about translating darts. When designing a detachable adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf part must be lowered in the waist area by 1 cm, this will give a better fit and prevent it from jerking when finished. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern obtained after cutting the details of the skirt, so that the darts open to the bottom. Correct the side cuts and the bottom of the product.

Sleeve modeling. The sleeve base pattern can be taken on our website. First, let's shorten the length to the required one. With the help of vertical cuts going from the ridge to the bottom of the part, and the subsequent spreading of the parts of the pattern, design the opposite fold.

In the second version of the dress, the darts on the shelf are transferred into folds extending from the neckline. We will consider modeling below.

MODELING A DRESS FOR THE TYPE OF OVAL FIGURE (APPLE)

The figure is an oval (apple). In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter "o". The strategy in choosing the right clothes will be to emphasize, accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that slightly expands to the bottom, as well as the use of belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower, the top of the dress should be slightly expanded, for example, use a V-neck, collars ... Sheath dresses, smells, low waist, A-line dresses will suit you.

photo from the sites http://yourmothershouldknow.tumblr.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/buyerselect/ https://ru.pinterest.com/nordstrom/ http://dresses-photo.ru/ http: / /jenskie-hitrosti.ru/

As an example, let's take a look at this dress. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, this is very stretching the silhouette and slimming. In addition, the dress is loose in the waist area and slightly widens towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and the choice of fabric that keeps its shape, create the desired image and collect the figure as a whole. To model this model, we will use a basic sewing pattern of an adjacent silhouette for a better fit.

photo from the site

The female figure is a rectangle type. It is the most typical for modern models. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, usually there are no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! This is where our modeling tips and patterns can come in handy!)) Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Merlin Monroe or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself are what we are striving for.

photo from sites http://ouiliviamoraes.com/ http://my.goodhouse.com.

Modeling takes place on the basic pattern-based dress of a straight silhouette, without darts. To begin with, we will get rid of the dart on the back, on the shelf we will complete the depth of the fold, setting aside a distance of 12-15 cm from the middle of the part.Please note that one opposite fold is laid on top of the dress, while at the bottom there are two of them - one-sided, the depths are laid towards the side seams. The side seam lines are designed to create an oval silhouette. This model should be long above the knee, otherwise there may be excessive narrowing at the bottom.

Well, our lesson has come to an end, we have learned how to create simple dress patterns based on the basic pattern, such that beginners can handle the modeling and sewing, and talked about the types of figures. I think now you can please yourself with a new thing. Good luck and creative mood!

Semi-girths (we divide the measurements of the girths in half and get half-girths):

Rice. 1

Ssh - half-girth of the neck
Cr1 - first half-girth of the chest
Cr2 - second chest half girth
Cr3 - third chest half
St - waist half-girth
Sat - half hip

Lengths:

Rice. 2

Di - product length
DP - shoulder length
Dts - back length to waist
Accident - the length of the shelf to the waist

Rice. 3

Width:

Шп - shoulder width
Wg - chest width
Shs - back width

Rice. 4

Heights:

Vpkg - oblique shoulder height chest

Rice. 5

Vpks - shoulder height oblique back

Rice. 6

Bg - chest height

We take measurements from the figure according to Figures 1-4. When taking measurements of the girths of the chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the measuring tape should be located strictly horizontally at the narrowest / widest point (depending on the measurement). When removing the loops, there is no need to tighten the tape, as this can lead to a narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and shelf, as well as to determine the projected line of the shoulder seam.

Increases for freedom of fit

The increments depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when constructing. We will take average values as an example. And you also need to take into account that we use the increments to build half of the product.

For an example of building a dress, we will take size 48 (this is a size of 96.0 cm across the chest) for height 164.

Measurements:

W = 18.5 cm
Cr1 = 45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat = 52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Accident = 44.4 cm
Shp = 13.3 cm
Wd = 17.3 cm
Ws = 18.3 cm
VPC = 43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Bg = 27.5 cm

Increases:

Pg = 6.0 cm
Fri = 3.0 cm
PB = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr = 4.9 cm
PDT = 0.5 cm
PDTP = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Pspr = 2.0 cm

Meshing calculation:

Net width (A0a1) = Cr3 + Pg = 48.0 + 6.0 = 54.0 cm
Back width (A0a) = Shs + Pshs = 18.3 + 0.8 = 19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2) = Wr + (Cr2-Cr1) + Pshp = 17.3 + (50.4−45.9) + 0.3 = 22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2) = Shpr = Shset- (Shsp + Shpol) = 54.0- (19.1 + 22.1) = 12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) = Vprz + Pspr 0.5 * Pdts = 21.5 + 2.0 + 0.5 * 0.5 = 23.8 cm
Waist line position (A0T) = Dts + Pdts = 42.9 + 0.5 cm = 43.4 cm
The position of the thigh line (A0B) = Dts / 2-2 = 42.9 / 2-2 = 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A "H1) = Di + Dts = 90.0 + 0.5 cm = 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be postponed after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will postpone the length of the product from point A1.

Meshing

Step 1

Rice. 7

We take point A0 as the first point of construction and from it we put off to the right the width of the grid - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.

To the right of point A0 on the line A0a1, we set aside the width of the backrest, we get point a.

To the left of point a1 on the line A0a1, set aside the width of the shelf and get point a2.
The segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.

Downward from point A0, we postpone the height of the mesh and put point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).

From point A0 downwards we lay down the position of the chest line on the line A0G and get point G.
Also, from point A0 on the segment A0G, it postpones the position of the waist line and we get point T.
And the position of the hip line is postponed from point T on the segment A0G and we get point B.

From point a1 downwards we also postpone the height of the grid and get the point H3. We close the rectangle.

From points G, T and B we draw horizontals and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with the line a1H3.
In turn, from points a and a2, we lower the vertical to the chest line ГГ3 and get points Г1 and Г4.
The first and important step in building the mesh should look like the one shown in Fig. 7.

Building a drawing of the back

Step 2

Rice. eight

From point A0, we set aside to the left on the line 0.5 cm - this is the retraction of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0 ".

From point A0 "downward along the line A0H, we postpone the level of the blades, which is 0.4 * Dtc = 0.4 * 42.9 = 17.2 cm and we get point Y. We connect point Y with point A0" with a time line.

We build the depth of the neck of the back A0 "A = A2A1 = 7.2 / 3 = 2.4 down from the point A0" on the line A0 "Y. We finish building the rectangle and draw the line of the neck of the back with a curved curve.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eight.

Step 3

Rice. nine

From point T to the left on the TT3 waistline, we postpone the withdrawal along the waistline = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.

To build the middle seam of the back, we set aside from point H to the right a bend equal to the bend along the waist line of 1.5 cm and we get point H1. We draw the middle seam of the back through the points A-U-T1-H1.

From the neck of the back along the middle seam, put the length of the back down and get the point H (of the correct length).

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. nine.

Step 4

Rice. ten

We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Шп + tuck solution = 13.3 + 2.0 = 15.3 cm, where the tuck solution is 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 is equal to Bpk + Pvpk, where Ppvk = Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case = 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 = 43.7 cm.

At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1, set point P1.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. ten.

Step 5

Rice. eleven

We begin construction of the shoulder dart by determining the position of the dart along the shoulder seam. The dart should be located at 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 = 4.4 - 3.3, take the value 4.0 cm.

When constructing the shoulder seam, we took the solution of the dart = 2.0 cm. We set aside point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 with a step of 2.0 cm. Further, from points I1 and I2 we draw a radius equal to 7.0 cm and we get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to raise the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.

We connect the sides of the darts with the points of the neck A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular, we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eleven.

Step 6

Rice. 12

The auxiliary points of the armhole are built on the basis of the length of the line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm.To build point P3 = 18.9 / 3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm.Let off point P3 from point G1 from the chest line by segment Г1а1.

From the angle Г1 of the armhole, we draw a bisector with a length = Spr * 0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8 * 0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.

Auxiliary point Г2 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole, i.e. Shpr / 2 = 12.8 / 2 = 6.4 cm.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 12.

Step 7

Rice. 13

The armhole line of the back is drawn with a smooth line, while point P2 should have a right angle.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 13.

Building a shelf drawing

Step 8

Fig. 14

To plot the center point of the chest, the distance Г3Г4 / 2 - 1.0 = 22, ½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from the Г3 point to the right and we get the Г6 point.

For the products of the dress group, we draw up the descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we set aside 0.5 cm from the point T3 and get the point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of G3G6.

To build the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh / 3 + Pshgor = 18.5 / 3 + 1.0 = 7.2 cm, set aside from point A3 to the left on the horizontal and get point A4. The depth of the neck is calculated using the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and wires with a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and we get the point of the neck A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make notches and we obtain an auxiliary point A3 "from which we draw an arc of the neck of the shelf.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. fourteen.

Step 9

Fig. 15

We postpone the position of the highest point of the mammary glands from point A4 with a radius equal to Bg = 27.5 cm and get point G7.

At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the chest height from point G7 and the radius of the tuck opening from point A4, we find point A9.

We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and we get a chest dart of the shelf.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 15.

Step 10

Rice. 16

To determine auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of point P4 on the segment a2G4. For this, the distance П1Г1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm = 18.9 - 1.0 = 17.9 cm, we obtain the distance П4Г4. Further, this distance is Г4П4 / 3 = 6.0 cm and we postpone this distance from the point Г4 upwards and we get the point П6.

Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.

We draw a shoulder line through points A9P5.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 16.

Step 11

Fig. 17

To build the armhole of the shelf, draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.

From the angle G4, to build the armhole, we draw the bisector Spr * 0.2 = 12.8 * 0.2 = 2.6 cm.

Through points П5 - П6 - Г2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 17.

Drawing side lines

Step 12

Rice. eighteen

We will start the construction of the side lines along the chest line from the point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. Draw a vertical downward from point G4, this is the centerline of the side seam.

At the intersection with the waist line, hips and bottom, we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.

For the design of the side seam, take 0.4 * P-p tuck = 0.4 * 11.5 = 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete solution of the tuck in the side seam. To do this, 4.6 / 2 = 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from the point T2. And we get points T21 and T22.

Next, we calculate the extension along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 = (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 = 2.0 cm.We also divide it in half 2/2 = 1.0 cm, so that postpone the extension on the thighs on both sides of the B2 point. And we get points B21 and B22.

In this example of construction, we will leave the dress with a straight silhouette at the bottom, therefore, along the bottom line along the side seam, we postpone the same values as for the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.

Through points G4-T21-B22-N22 and G4-T22-B21-N21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the shelf and back.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eighteen.

Step 13

Rice. 19

To build a dart along the waist line of the back, we determine the position of the dart along the waist line on the back, for this distance T1T21 / 2 = 21.8 / 2 = 10.9 cm and we get point T4.

Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line (P-r elongated - P-r elongated side) * 0.55 = (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 = 3.8 cm.This solution is also halved 3.8 / 2 = 1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.

The height of the dart from the waist line up and down is 15.0 cm each - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 19.

Step 14

Rice. twenty

To build a dart along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf, for this, down from the waist line from point T6, we lower the vertical to the line of the hips - we get point T5.

Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line P-p elongated - P-p elongated side-P-p elongated cn = 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 = 3.1 cm.This solution is also halved 3, ½ = 1.55 and set aside from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.

The height of the dart from the waist line up and down is the same as on the back of 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. twenty.

Step 15

Rice. 21

To build the relief lines, it is necessary to translate a part of the breast dart of the shelf. To do this, set aside 4.0 cm with a notch equal to the distance from the neckline to the dart of the back = 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.

We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the translation radius of the chest dart = 26.3 cm.

Now, from point A4, set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 = 4.0 cm, set the first notch, and from the point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii we get point A8. Then we connect the points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get the shoulder line to the line of the shelf relief and a section of the shelf relief.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 21.

Step 16

Rice. 22

To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the center line of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.

We lower the lines of the reliefs of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get points H4 and H5, respectively.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 22.

Rice. 23

The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look like the one shown in fig. 23.

Step 17

Rice. 24

Next, you need to translate the main parts of the shelf, the barrel of the shelf, the back and the barrel of the back to tracing paper and add allowances for the seams.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 24.

If these are your first steps in design, then the design must be checked, that is, the dress must be sewn from the mock fabric and the fitting must be carried out to be sure that no errors occurred in the calculations and construction.

Also, after construction, it is necessary to add details of the neckline and armholes of the back and shelf. And also, if desired, decorative elements - yokes, flounces, edging, etc.

Photo: website
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Prepared by Anna Soboleva

In today's lesson, we will analyze the modeling of p dress of the fitted silhouette. The bodice of the dress is decorated with relief seams, the neckline is decorated with a boat neckline. Sleeveless dress. Skirt sun.

For modeling, we will take small volume patterns, pattern 125

Step 1. Form the neckline. We transfer the waist darts closer to the side seams.

Step 2. Mark the location of the embossed seams from the armhole and on the sides of the darts. We outline the waist line. Along the back along the waist line, along the front we make a descent of approx. 1cm.

Step 3. On the bodice of the back, draw a relief seam with a smooth line, cut the back along the line of the embossed seam.

Step 4. On the front bodice, transfer the chest dart to the armhole, connect it to the end of the waist dart. Cut along the relief line, then along the side of the dart. We draw reliefs with a smooth line.

Step 5. On the cut back panel, mark the dividing lines for breeding. Divide the tuck solution by the number of lines. We mark the desired length of the skirt. We part the details of the panel to a right angle. We do the same with the front panel.

Step 6. We get in a cut:

1) backrest 2 children.
2) back side flank 2 children
3) front barrel 2 children
4) the central part of the front 1 children. folded
5) combined (combined facing of the neckline and armholes) facing backrest 2 children.
6) combined front facing 1 det. folded
7) the back panel of the skirt 2 pcs.
8) the front panel of the skirt 1 piece. folded