Bisabolol in cosmetics - what is it? Bisabolol in cosmetics - what is it and in which cosmetic products Bisabolol is used how to add it to creams

Bisabolol (bisabolol) is a transparent viscous liquid with a characteristic odor. Bisabolol is obtained both from plant materials (from essential oils of chamomile, lavender, etc.) and synthetically.
Bisabolol is widely used in skin care and medicinal cosmetics.

Properties:

• relieves irritation caused by mechanical damage to the skin (abrasions, shaving, hair removal, etc.);
• promotes healing of damaged skin (cracks, cuts, burns);
• has antibacterial, antimicrobial and antifungal effects;
• has a vasoconstrictor effect;
• reduces the production of melanin in the skin.

Bisabolol and rosacea.

The vasoconstrictor effect of bisabolol, reducing hyperemia (overflow of blood vessels), helps in the treatment of rosacea. But since rosacea is a disease caused by a lifestyle, it just cannot be cured with bisabolol ointments. Bisabolol can only act as one of the auxiliary agents.

Bisabolol and UV radiation.

On the one hand, bisabolol reduces the production of melanin, brightening the skin and making it more susceptible to UV radiation. On the other hand, it helps to heal sunburns. However, sunscreens contain an abundance of components both reflecting sunlight (physical filters) and absorbing it (chemical filters). Therefore, there is no need to worry about the presence of bisabolol in sunscreens.

Bisabolol and Azulene.

Bisabolol and azulene have similar properties, therefore they often coexist in cosmetics. However, there are enough differences. For example, bisabolol is more chemically stable than azulene, which lengthens the shelf life of cosmetics. Azulene is blue in color, which makes it difficult to use. Aesthetically, bisabolol, having a color from light yellow to completely colorless, is much more convenient for the manufacturer.

Allergy.

Output: bisabolol is a useful component of cosmetics, however, it is not devoid of some disadvantages.

B isabolol (bisabolol) is a viscous liquid with a light and pleasant floral aroma, most often a yellowish or golden hue. The substance is widely used in modern cosmetology due to its antimicrobial and anti-aging properties, although its properties are much broader. Healing compositions for the skin of the face, combating unwanted age-related changes, ensuring a safe tan during summer holidays - a cream or ointment that contains bisabolol does all these tasks very well. But in a pharmacy or a specialized cosmetic store, you are unlikely to be told that the use of this substance can bring not only benefits, but also harm. However, this does not mean that bisabolol should definitely be classified as a questionable ingredient. If you learn to follow simple safety rules, the face skin cream in which it is present will show all its healing properties without any harm to health.

Properties

Bisabolol is one of the most popular and demanded ingredients used in cosmetology. And although its use is fraught with some limitations, the medicinal properties of this substance are truly unique.

Arguments for":

• stimulation of the regenerative properties of the facial skin;
• significant improvement in the appearance and structure of the epidermis;
• relief of the inflammatory process;
• removal of redness and irritation;
• soft restoration of skin firmness and elasticity;
• reduction of the network of expression and age wrinkles;
• mild deodorant and refreshing effect;
• natural hydration of the facial skin;
• fight against severe flaking;
• ensuring sufficient nutrition for all layers of the epidermis;
• softening and whitening of the skin.

Diseases and pathologies for the treatment of which cosmetics with bisabolol are recommended:

• inflammation of various etiologies (including rosacea);
• increased dryness and insufficient nutrition of the epidermis;
• various injuries to the skin of the face (wounds, cuts, abrasions, minor burns);
• pathologies accompanied by severe desquamation (keratosis, xerosis);
• severe rashes;
• decrease in the level of natural moisture and elasticity of the skin.

It is also worth noting that bisabolol promotes better penetration of substances contained in cosmetic preparations (cream, lotion, tonic), even into the deepest layers of the epidermis. As a result, a much greater therapeutic effect is achieved, and the risk of any negative reactions is significantly reduced. In other words, bisabolol is a natural, hypoallergenic and safe ingredient, the use of which has practically no significant restrictions.

Contraindications:

• individual intolerance (cream or ointment containing bisabolol, in very rare cases, can provoke an allergic reaction);
• an acute inflammatory process, accompanied by damage to large areas of the skin of the face;
• pregnancy and lactation (in this case, one should take into account the potential harm to the health of both the expectant mother and the baby there);
• serious chronic diseases in the acute phase.

Use cases

As we have already found out, bisabolol has found the widest application in cosmetology: face skin cream, decorative products, preparations for protection against ultraviolet radiation, baby ointments and powders, shampoos and even toothpastes. As you can see, there are a lot of use cases. But more often bisabolol can be found in the composition of antibacterial products, as well as agents designed to combat age-related skin changes. However, you should understand that non-compliance with safety rules, when, for the sake of efficiency, manufacturers overestimate the concentration of the active ingredient, can lead to big trouble.

Safe dosage:

The figures given are for widespread skin cosmetics, which can most often be found in a pharmacy or specialty store. Subject to basic safety rules, it is practically not capable of causing harm, therefore, it can be acquired without any fear. Medicinal products have a slightly different composition. In such cosmetics, the concentration of bisabolol is much higher - from 2 to 5%. Its use is possible only after consulting a doctor, therefore we strongly recommend refraining from self-medication, no matter how tempting this idea may seem to you. Harm from such products is quite possible, therefore it is better to show prudence and not take risks.

What to buy?

If you do not have the desire to make cosmetics at home, it will not be a problem to buy it at a pharmacy or a specialized store. Thus, you will save time and be able to purchase a guaranteed effective cream. But it comes at a cost: bisabolol is not one of the available ingredients.

• Evercalm Global Protection Day Cream (Ren, 50 ml / 2500 r.). A good cream for sensitive skin. Provides noticeable hydration, relieves irritation and fights epidermal sensitization. It has a balanced composition, due to which any harm to the skin (subject to the rules of use) is completely eliminated.
• LL Regeneration (Annemarie Borlind, 50 ml / 2900 rub.). The products of this brand are practically unknown to domestic women, although they are interesting and unusual in their own way. The cream helps to get rid of wrinkles, slows down the aging process of the skin and provides a wonderful moisturizing and softening effect. The only drawback of LL Regeneration is its unavailability in the retail network.
• Purple De Rose (Melvita, 40 ml / 2500 rubles). A soft moisturizer that refreshes and tightens the skin, fights the first signs of aging and does not provoke the appearance of an oily sheen. The texture is very light and the absorption rate is quite fast.
• Dermabrasion anti-age (Darphin, 50 ml / 3700 r.). Not the most affordable, but very effective peeling, the use of which, subject to a number of conditions, is permissible even for sensitive skin. Additional properties are equally interesting: the active ingredients help to tighten pores, whiten age spots and even out complexion.
• Cleanance Mask (Avene, 40 ml / 850 rubles). A good and not very expensive exfoliating mask. But in fact, its medicinal properties are much more varied. Cleanance Mask improves skin texture, regulates sebum production and significantly reduces the likelihood of comedones. It contains AHA and BHA acids, pumpkin seed oil, zinc, kaolin and thermal water.
• Exfoliac Acnomega 200 (Noreva, 30 ml / 1000 r.). A remedy for problem skin that effectively fights acne. In addition, the preparation helps to cleanse pores, regulate keratin production and normalize skin structure. Standard composition: AHA acids, zinc gluconate, lactic acid and glyceryl stearate.
• Thickening Shampoo (Avalon Organics, 414 ml / 650 r.). An exceptionally budget shampoo that does not boast of any striking features, but simply does its job: stimulates follicle growth, strengthens the roots and prevents hair loss. In addition to bisabolol, the list of ingredients contains wheat proteins, vitamin E, palm extract.

How to do it?

Can the healing properties of bisabolol be used at home? If you are willing to devote enough time to this, then why not. Probably, hand-made cosmetics will not be as effective as industrial ones, but you will be able to fully control the entire cycle of its production. To do this, you need an accurate kitchen scale, as breaking the recommended dosage of ingredients can lead to big trouble.

Body milk

Ingredients:

• bisabolol - 0.9 g;
• wheat wax (emulsifier) ​​- 3.6 g;
• D-panthenol - 1.8 g;
• allantoin - 0.6 g;
• macadamia oil - 4.5 g;
• palm oil - 13.5 g;
• fireweed extract - 1.8 g;
• Optifen Plus (available at the pharmacy) - 0.3 g;
• water (mineral) - 63 g.

How to cook?

Heat the oil phase a little in a water bath, combine it with an emulsifier, add water and mix well. Then enter the remaining components.

Nourishing and moisturizing face mask

Ingredients:

• bisabolol - 0.3 g;
• aloe vera (gel) - 5 g;
• sesame oil - 10 g;
• grape seed oil - 10 g;
• vitamin E - 0.5 g;
• geranium ether - 0.5 g;
• shea butter - 5 g;
• avocado oil - 9 g;
• beeswax and avocado - 5 g each

How to cook?

First of all, we dissolve both types of wax (you can use a water bath), then let them cool down a little, add the remaining components and mix everything well.

Anti-inflammatory body cream

Ingredients:

• bisabolol - 0.5 g;
• wheat wax - 4 g;
• allantoin - 2 g;
• green tea extract, jojoba oil - 6 g each;
• neem oil, black cumin, laurel - 5 g each;
• shea butter - 4 g;
• biosol - 0.05 g;
• still mineral water - 63 g.

How to cook?

Combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Melt the wheat wax first.

Beautician review

Can bisabolol be called an ideal preparation for the skin of the face? It would seem that it could be simpler: buy any cream based on it, and then arrange a magnificent farewell to wrinkles and various pathogens ... In fact, the properties of bisabolol are such that its use in cosmetology requires increased responsibility and taking into account many non-obvious factors, about which you might not even guess. Therefore, I strongly advise you to consult a doctor before starting treatment, and when choosing a cream or ointment in a pharmacy, carefully study the accompanying instructions.

Bisabolol is known in cosmetology as an effective anti-inflammatory ingredient that relieves any irritation on the skin, regardless of their origin. For hundreds of years, people have used this component in dermatological practice, in particular, often using its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.

Bisabolol exists in two structural forms: alpha and beta. Alpha-bisabolol is most commonly used in cosmetic products. Alpha Bisabolol is more effective in improving the characteristics of the skin, reducing redness, flaking, itching and restoring its natural tone.

Synonyms: Bisabolol, α-Bisabolol, Levomenol; Alpha-Bisabolol; Dl-Alpha-Bisabolol; Dragosantol; Bisabolol nat. Patented formulas: RTD Alpha-bisabolol natural, Lipo® Bisabolol, BioNatural® Alpha Bisabolol Natural, RonaCare® Bisabolol nat., UCHEM Alpha-Bisabolol, a-Bisabolol 5% Liposystem Complex®, Anti-Irritant Liposomes (D), Crodarom Chamomile , SymRelief®, Hydagen® B, Alpha Melight ™, Catezomes ™ B-20, Anti Irritant Complex I, Dragosantol®, SymRepair®.

The action of bisabolol in cosmetics

As already mentioned, the main function of bisabolol in cosmetics is to soothe the skin. Bisabolol reduces skin irritation by reducing the level of pro-inflammatory cytokine compounds (one of the main inflammatory mediators) in the skin. The fact is that bisabolol contains a high concentration of a powerful derivative - vitamin B5, better known as panthenol. This compound is especially prized for its calming effect on the skin, so bisabolol actually exerts the same effect due to the presence of panthenol in its composition.

Also, bisabolol perfectly softens the skin, improves the condition and appearance of dehydrated or damaged hydrolipid mantle, reduces flaking in case of excessive dryness and xerosis, and helps to restore skin elasticity. Due to its high concentration of bioactive molecules, bisabolol can accelerate the healing process of the skin and effectively stimulate healthy hair growth. And by strengthening the protective barrier of the skin, bisabolol can be attributed to effective protective agents that reduce the risk of skin damage by physical and chemical factors.

This component also enhances the penetration of other cosmetic ingredients into the skin, which can be especially useful in various pathological conditions (rosacea, dermatitis). In such cases, bisabolol acts as both an active and an auxiliary ingredient.

Cleansing the skin of pathogens is another function of this amazing substance: bisabolol, among other things, also exhibits antimicrobial properties. In particular, it is a powerful inhibitor of the growth of pathogenic and opportunistic fungi, including the causative agent of thrush (Candida albicans, as well as gram-positive bacteria. skin.

Bisabolol can also be used in cosmetics and personal care products as a fragrance. In addition to its many valuable properties, this ingredient also exudes a subtle floral scent that often lends an attractive scent to even the most ingenious cosmetic products. However, the properties of bisabolol that are most significant for cosmetic and dermatological practice (and most in demand) are: anti-inflammatory, healing, antibacterial, antifungal and anti-allergic.

Who is bisabolol indicated for?

• To reduce inflammation of various origins, including rosacea.
• For moisturizing and nourishing dry skin
• To repair damaged skin
• To reduce desquamation in xerosis and keratoses.
• To restore the elasticity of dehydrated skin.
• For the treatment of burns, cuts and open injuries.
• To reduce the risk of skin rashes.

To whom is bisabolol contraindicated?

Despite the fact that bisabolol is well absorbed by the body after application to the skin, no studies have suspected this component as a toxic or irritating side effect. Bisabolol in general belongs to the class of the most safe ingredients for use in cosmetic products. However, because of this the cutaneous penetration of other ingredients may increase, they warn the manufacturers of the formulation to be on the lookout for this possibility.

Alpha-bisabolol - a key component of chamomile's essential oil also known as levomenol - can cause an allergic reaction in people who are allergic to the plant (although another component of chamomile, azulene is usually the trigger).

Cosmetics containing bisabolol

Bisabolol is widely used in the production of a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products - its presence can be found in a wide range of products, including face and body skin care products, decorative cosmetics, sunscreen and children's series, and hair care products. Bisabolol is also used in less routine or “predictable” products such as sun exposure products, cleansing wipes, hair removers, foot and nail care products, shampoos, shaving products, and even toothpastes.

Most often, this ingredient can be found in various cosmetics for dry and sensitive skin, anti-age creams and formulas for skin care around the eyes, lipsticks, as well as in medical cosmetics. Alpha Bisabolol can be found in several products aimed at reducing wrinkles and fighting acne. Bisabolol is also included in antimicrobial cleansers, which are generally designed to fight harmful bacteria and limit fungal growth. The concentration of alpha-bisabolol in cosmetics can be minimal: about 0.1-0.5% - however, this ingredient will still effectively care for the skin. Concentrations of bisabolol recommended by European experts for use in various cosmetics (in%):

In the composition of more expensive cosmeceutical products, bisabolol is found in the form of liposomes (in concentrations from 2-5%). In liposomes, it is usually combined in a complex with phospholipids (lecithin), glycerol and other active substances. In liposomes, bisabolol acts both as a soothing, moisturizing and nourishing agent, and as a natural carrier that increases the absorption of other active ingredients and guarantees a greater bioavailability of the product.

At the same time, a bisabolol derivative, panthenol, is widely used in shampoos, conditioners, and styling products, where it helps strengthen hair roots, increase shine and moisturize. Panthenol is also used as part of a variety of decorative cosmetics. Panthenol is used separately in cosmetic products with a medical "bias" - in external agents that treat burns and skin irritations. The therapeutic effect of such agents largely depends on the ability of panthenol to penetrate the skin. The "throughput" of panthenol varies depending on the base and other active ingredients.

Sources of bisabolol

As a rule, this substance is obtained from natural sources for use in the beauty industry, although it can be synthesized artificially in the laboratory. However, it is believed that artificially obtained bisabolol exhibits only 50% of the effectiveness of natural alpha-bisabolol.

More popular in the cosmetic industry, alpha-bisabolol is a dense liquid, which is the main component of the essential oil made from the herb of chamomile (Chamomilla recutita or Matricaria chamomilla): the same plant is the source of the famous azulene. At the same time, beta-bisabolol is obtained from another raw material - in the processing of corn or cotton. Many Western growers use bisabolol, derived from candea (Eremanthus erythropappus), a short tree with white flowers that grows in the southern and western regions of Brazil.

Bisabolol of both types is similar to a colorless (rarely yellowish) viscous oil, which is practically insoluble in water and glycerin, but well soluble in alcohol. Alpha Bisabolol has a mild sweet floral scent that is used in various perfume compositions. Natural alpha-bisabolol is very well compatible with other common cosmetic ingredients and is very stable during storage: no changes in color, texture, etc. are observed. The shelf life of natural alpha-bisabolol is 3 years in the pH range from 3 to 11.

Description: Bisabolol is a 100% natural product obtained by direct distillation without the use of solvents or other chemicals commonly used in extraction.
Appearance: clear and viscous liquid
Colour: colorless to slightly yellow
Smell: woody, floral, slightly sweet, characteristic
Solubility:
Water / glycerin - insoluble
Ethanol, alcohols - dissolves
Mineral oil and cosmetic oils: miscible

Cosmetic properties:
- Improves the appearance of dehydrated or damaged skin
- Effectively stimulates the healing process of the skin
- Conditions the skin
- Reduces flaking of dry skin
- Restores skin elasticity
- Moisturizes, nourishes the skin, reduces wrinkles
- Soothes the skin and relieves irritation
- Suitable for the care of sensitive skin
- Gives smoothness to sensitive skin
- Improves skin texture and elasticity
- Has a whitening effect
- Has deodorant properties
- Possesses a subtle floral scent, which is often used to add scent to cosmetic products
- Natural enhancer. Promotes the penetration of other cosmetic ingredients into the skin. This property can be especially useful in antioxidant formulation.
- Reduces hyperpigmentation caused by skin aging or inflammation, allergies, eczema and contact dermatitis *

* The study was conducted with the participation of 28 volunteers, using a cream with 0.5% alpha-bisabolol. Over an 8 week period, using clinical and biophysical testing methods.
The assessment of skin color before and after treatment was carried out by the investigators using a CM2600D spectrophotometer. The safety of the use of bisabolol has also been evaluated.
Evaluation on a spectrophotometer showed a very significant reduction in pigmentation color after using a cream with 0.5% bisabolol, already one month after treatment, and after two months of treatment.
A dose of 0.5% bisabolol was determined to be safe for topical application, without adverse reactions at 4 and 8 weeks of use.

Medicinal properties:
- Has anti-inflammatory effect
- Reduces inflammation and itching
- Has antibacterial, antimicrobial and antifungal effects.

Application:
- Bisabolol is used in many health, beauty and skin care products (especially for sensitive skin).
- Care products for sensitive, very dry, problem skin
- Moisturizers, lotions, masks
- Anti-aging creams, serums, lotions
- Products with whitening, lightening action
- Creams, serums for the skin around the eyes
- Soothing, anti-inflammation agents
- Sunscreens
- After sun lotions
- After shave products
- Facial cleansers
- Shower gels, shampoos, liquid soaps
- Toothpaste
- Lipstick, lip balms
- Mineral powder base
- Deodorants
- Products after depilation, perm
- Wide application in children's cosmetics
- Care products for the elderly
- Preparations for athletes,
- Medical and cosmetic products for patient care.

Recommended input percentage: Maximum dosage up to 2%
Toothpaste: 0.05%
Cleansing Lotion for Skin: 0.05%
Baby Cleansing Lotion: 0.10%
Hair care products: 0.10%
Body care products: 0.20%
Skin treatments: 0.20%
Acne treatments: 0.10%
Moisturizers for hands and body: 0.20%
Cleansing Lotion: 0.15%
Solar filters: 0.20%
After shave: 0.20%

Storage:
Store in a tightly closed container in a cool, dark place.

Manufacturers use bisabolol in cosmetics because of its ability to relieve inflammation and irritation of any origin. And this ingredient became popular several hundred years ago: dermatologists already then understood how valuable bisabolol is.

Bisabolol- completely natural substance. It comes in two flavors: alpha and beta. In cosmetics, as a rule, alpha-bisabolol is found, obtained from pharmacy chamomile.

Bisabolol is insoluble in water (it dissolves only in alcohol); when mixed with glycerin, its structure is not disturbed. Friendly to most cosmetic ingredients. Mixing of bisabolol with cosmetic oils is also allowed.

Synonyms for bisabolol: Bisabolol, Alpha-Bisabolol, α-Bisabolol, Levomenol.

Bisabolol: properties

This substance has a number of beneficial properties, including:

1. reduction of skin irritation due to a decrease in the level of cytokines (irritant provocateurs) in the skin;
2. soothes sensitive skin (due to the high content of vitamin B5 in bisabolol, also known as panthenol);
3. regeneration of damaged and problem skin;
4. antibacterial action;
5. restoration of the lipid barrier of the skin;
6. moisturizing and softening the skin;
7. increased elasticity;
8. elimination of peeling with excessive dryness and xerosis.

Pay attention to our “Perfectly matte skin” gel, which, in addition to bisabolol, contains a whole range of active ingredients. An excellent remedy for eliminating the imperfections of oily and combination skin!

Bisabolol also increases the effectiveness of other active ingredients present in the cosmetic product. It is thanks to him that it is so effective. This property is especially valuable in the treatment of rosacea and dermatitis.

In addition to cosmetic properties, bisabolol also boasts a pronounced therapeutic effect: it fights against fungal microorganisms, relieves itching and redness in a short time.