How to correctly shoot the measurements for the base pattern. How to remove the pattern from the finished thing

Pered how to start the sewing of any product, you need to remove the measurements. Professional dressmaker knows that if you correctly remove the measurements from a female figure - this is half success. And even if you have never done, strictly following the instructions below, you can do it quickly enough.

Important: Before proceeding with the removal of measure, put on the underwear that you intend to wear a product, as modern tights can give the effect of "tints" and remove from 1 to 3 cm in volume, and bras, on the contrary - add volume.

Take a thin fabbo, this simple technique use all professional dressmakers. It makes it easier to remove the standards conjugate with the waist line. We advise you to read O.

Stand directly, without voltage, do not narrow, do not bend the leg in the knee. After you remove the measurement, you can compare them with standard to better understand and analyze the features of your figure.

1. Breast girth. This measure is removed by the most protruding points of the chest. Santimeter should not pull too hard or relax. It should be tight, but without stretching to fit to the body. Girth over breasts is measured on top of the chest glands.

2. Waist girth. It is measured by the narrowest place, the centimeter tape should grasp the waist tightly.

3. Cooking hips. It is measured by the most convex points of the buttocks. For women who have the "Halifer effect", it is also recommended to duplicate the measure (measure the volume just below the buttocks on the protruding parts of Galifa.

If the first measurement is significantly less than the second, use the second, especially in products that suggest narrow silhouettes, for example, a skirt-case. The adjustment of the product in this case will have to be done directly when the blended product is fitted.

4. Breast height. It is measured from the neck of the neck in the shoulder to the most protruding point of the chest.

5. Length transfer to the waist. The length of transfers to the waist (DPT) is measured from the neck of the neck in the shoulder (neck base) through the most protruding point of the chest to the waist.

6-6a. Length of the product.For shoulder products, it is measured by the back from the seventh cervical vertebra to the desired length of the product (6), for the belt products - on the back of the waist to the desired length of the product (6a).

7. The length of the back to the waist. It is measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line (DST).

8. Spin width. It is measured horizontally on the straightened back through the center of the blades.

9. Width shoulders. It is measured horizontally according to the most protruding points from one shoulder to the other.

10. Shoulder length.It is measured from the bottom of the neck to the extreme point of the shoulder (the point of the joint shoulder with hand).

11. Sleeve length.It is measured from the end of the end of the shoulder to the wrist on a slightly bent in the elbow hand. The 3/4 sleeve length is measured in the same way, but to the elbow.

12. Cooking hands (top).It is measured horizontally, along the widest top of the hand.

13. Neck girth.This measurement around the neck.

14. Depth of the Prummy. The depth of the armor can be measured as follows: Hold the armpit strip of paper 3-4 cm. Measurement Speed \u200b\u200bon the back from the 7th cervical vertebra to the top edge of the paper strip.

By the way, with the help of a paper strip, you can remove the measurement and width of the armor. Hold the paper strip horizontally by the armpit, on the left and right of the hands. Put vertical dashes - it will be the width of the armor.

18. Hips girth. It is measured horizontally 5 cm below the lifting fold of the thigh.

19. Knee girth. It is measured horizontally 2 cm below the knee cup.

20. The height of the knee. Measured from the waist line until the middle of the knee.

21. Girth of the shin. It is measured horizontally from the largest part of the tibia.

22. Girth of the ankle. It is measured horizontally over the finest foot.

23. Seat height. It is measured sitting on a flat surface, on the back, from the waist line to the surface.

This master class is dedicated to the topic. "How to remove the pattern from the finished product?" This topic is fairly in demand.

We have already talked about, and I advised you to pick up the finished pattern from the magazine mod. This is how the option is not yet the skills of building patterns yourself. But, I note that it does not always happen to get good patterns that do not have to customize on the figure. It happens that the model contains a very big increase, and you are literally drowning in this product. Well, if the fabric is cheap, there is a lot of it and you only lost time on the fitting of the product. But it happens that the fabrics are not enough, the pattern simply does not fit, you refuse to the cherished thing, and then it turns out that this pattern is to "clean" for several centimeters, whom it would have been enough for "that" tissue! Well, first, of course, I advise all new patterns to try on simple fabric, to take all inaccuracies on the product on the fitting, transfer them to the pattern, and then cut serious things.

And there is another option of making patterns on your figure! This pattern will be already tested, accurate! It is a pattern made on the finished product, which is perfect on you!

Pattern from the finished product without breaking.

For many, this is not news: the seam spacers and is ready! But, first of all, did not resolve on the seams - we have an allowance for the seams to anything, but simply cut off all the seams so that the pattern is not distorted. And secondly, people worn so long that they will not soon live to their "death." After moral aging, things are moving from the discharge of "decent" into the category of "workers" and for a long time they serve in the garden.

How to make the pattern without breaking the product. It can be said that it is quite simple, but, you need to be aimed. The main thing is not to reduce size, save the maximum form. It is also necessary to remember that the thing is pulled in the sock, changes its linear dimensions. Therefore, you need to determine exactly when removing the pattern from the product to washing or after. If the fabric after washing is very sitting, then before removing the pattern, the product needs to be put on and "plant" on the shape. And vice versa, if the product is already hanging at all places with bubbles, it is unlikely that the pattern will be "from the carden."

The most difficult, as it seemed to me, it is to remove the pattern from the trousers. But probably. Today I will show you on the example of a male shirt, how to prepare a product for removing the pattern, to which you need to pay attention to, and how to check the compliance of the parts.

I think we will return to this topic when we build patterns of skirts, for example, or trousers. Someone may. He wants, without waiting, remove the pattern from these products. Tip: Always remember the central line! Through the waist line draw up to the damp, then press the product "rolling" it at the end of the end of the outlet, straighten the side seam, and spend the second side of the outlet. It is built with you myself - you will see it.

Some parts can be easy to decompose on the table and replace, such as collar. But on this, perhaps. List and ends.

Today we have learned cancel pattern from finished product. I really hope that you will succeed! Write in the comments, what difficulties were experienced, maybe something was not clear.

If the article was useful, share it with friends, ask questions. I will be grateful for the husky. Subscribe to news and get a book as a gift "Sewing machine home use."

With love, Olga Zlobin

Surely in your wardrobe there is an ideal thing, for example, a dress or blouse, which I don't want to part, which I would like to repeat. But how to do it, if there is no suitable pattern?

Everything is simple, use the product or separate items to create a new pattern.

To copy a knitted T-shirt, T-shirt or a simple clock pullover, spread the product flat on the working surface (on the table).

On top of the trash and secure it in several places by tailor pins so that it does not slide.

With the help of a copy wheel or marker, move the contours of the product on the tracing (first shelves, then the backrest and the last line of the sleeve).

Pattern ready!

Tip 2.

Pick fabric as close as possible to the one of which is sewn the original product: the same texture, density, composition and color. But, most importantly, pay attention to the presence or absence of tensile material. The presence of elastane in the composition of the tissue provides a good landing and does not constrain movements, which means it is better suitable for models of the fitting figure.

Using the marker, perform all the necessary checkmarks as on any other pattern. For example, the place of combining seams and parts, the location of the pockets, the lines of the middle of the pass, back, bend, the marking of the loops, etc.

Tip 4.

For accurate translation of curved lines, use a flexible ruler.

Tip 5.

To replace, for example, the detail of the collar, spread the product flat on the working surface. Then tear it carefully in half, accurately aligning the seams and details. On top of the trash, securing it pointing it with the portno pins. And with the help of the marker, transfer the contours of the collar on the tracing. At the same time, be sure to mark the folding of the fold (middle).

Tip 6.

Run the layout of the product. Transfer the contours of the pattern to the fabric for the layout, for example, the calico. Clear and sweep. If necessary, make changes to the details of the pattern. And only after that, proceed to the creation of products from the main fabric.

Applying this method, you can copy almost any simple product. For complex models, such as jeans or jackets, it is better to recruit the old thing and take it out of its details.

Tips from readers:

Innushik:
Cooling transparent two-layer, sold in housekeeping stores. It is more convenient for me to shoot the pattern from the finished product on the liner than on the tracing. Dense, not breaking and transparent.

Tatiana29:
At one of the sites, we met the Council to puncture each detail with painting (paper) scotchpiest with a layer without spaces, circling on the seams and then tear off with one cannol. I did not try myself, but the idea is good.

Before you shoot a copy, reveal your product to prevent distortion. Mark the equity and transverse filaments of the fabric on every product detail, especially if you copy parts of the product with assemblies, folds or sweeps. If you do not mark the direction of these threads, the new product will not sit well.

Apply the direction of the threads on a piece of cotton fabric and place it on top of the product item copied. Cold pins by combining the directions of the threads, arrange a hand from the center to the seams. Purify the pins close to each other so that the fabric does not shift. To mark the lines of the seams on the fabric, apply strokes along the seams or swipe the line along them.

After transferring to the fabric of all parts of the product, measure pieces of patterns from the fabric and compare them with the product. Measure also the seams of the seams that will be searched: they must be the same length, if there are no points, extracts or assemblies. Spend flat lines on the intended locations using a direct or rounded line. This operation is called fit. Add an allowance for the seams and enjoy each part item in accordance with the name of the similar product details, specify the number of parts you want to carve out.

It is enough to copy one of the symmetrical sides of the product or half of each large symmetrical part, and then carve out the part from the fabric folded by half.

So you can copy the pattern from the trousers without breaking them. The assistants need to take a raner tape. For a low stickiness tape is needed so as not to spoil the pants finally. Unlock pants on the table, flat as soon as possible. And we begin to put the ribbon on the trousers, filling it all the space of the trousers. Noting all the details along the way. Then carefully remove the ribbon as one whole, and transferred to the paper. We celebrate the allowances for the seams. We do the same with the back of the trouser. With a belt, coquette and other details. The back of the trousers is usually wider than the front, which means that we add a ribbon from the seam to the seam. That's how a copy is done.

So you can copy children's pants

Tips will be useful to you to copy the main parts of the product that can be decomposed on a flat surface.

1) Cut a piece of cotton tissue larger than the corresponding item of the copied product, making an allowance in length and width to the bending and seams. Mark the direction of the threads on every detail.

2) Specify the direction of the threads on each part of the pins or with a contrasting thread mark.

3) Fold the part in the center of the back or pass. Sprove line

4) Note the crosslines with pins where you want to make tags, for example, for the breakdown, as well as the place where you are planning an allowance or assembly.

Building Pattern Sleeves Copy Method

To copy the batter sleeves, you need a universal shoe

To remove the pattern of the vtachny sleeves by copying, you will need a special ironing shoe. The sleeve is completely dressed up on the block, so that OKAT and the edge of the sleeves were completely placed on the block so that the sleeve could be wrapped with a cloth and pinch pin.

For the fetal sleeves, you can adjust the tailoring pad.

1) First, mark the direction of equity threads on the sleeve and fabric. To easier, it was easier to navigate to mark the transverse lines of the opait sleeves and fabric.

Align the appropriate direction of the threads of sleeves and fabric and scroll both parts by pins.

2) Print the torn pins fabric to the sleeve rows of pins at a distance from 5 to 7.5 cm from each other so that both layers lay without folds.

Do not fasten inboard pins.
Follow the pencil of the seams of the batch sleeves and the bottom edge of the sleeve.

3) Place the open-sleeves in the needle pad or on a wide edge of the ironing board. Enter the fabric to Oak Sleeves so that it lay freely in the open sleeves, copying its shape and pinches with pins.

4) Digid a pencil of a suture line of the dog's suture and make a pencil label on the fabric.
Tags must be copied by the suture line of the wedding sleeve of the jacket (these places are shown by arrows).

Remove the needles and remove the cloth from the jacket sleeves.

5) Measure the centimeter ribbon the main dimensions of the batter sleeves. Compare the measurements with the resulting pattern, especially the sizes of the seam line of the armor and the fad.

If you need to make a sleeve freely, lift the hoses above. Do not forget about the allowances for connecting seams in 1.3 cm.

6) After you compare the size of the patterns from the fabric and the bulk sleeves, make the necessary fit. Pick also lines of seams. Add a sleeve bending (3-4cm).

Pattern of the bath sleeve on the fabric can be translated into paper.

Before cutting out the hose on the tissue for sewing the product, it is advisable to make the sleeves and carve it out of inexpensive fabric. Or, as a last resort, leave large points from all sides of the sleeves that can be removed during the first fitting.

The art of creating good lecturers for cutting belongs to one of the main secrets of any designer of clothing. There are many technologies for the construction of basic patterns and methods of their modeling, but it can be argued that none of them guarantees an ideal landing on a specific figure. Therefore, it is not surprising that when buying a well-sitting ready-made thing, a desire arises to copy its templates for further use.

Make it quite easily, not even having experience in self-building patterns. The simplest thing is to cut the product on the seams, stroke the items and circle them on paper. However, this method is suitable only if the sample for copying has become unusable. In addition, worn things may have deformations, scuffs, etc., which will make the templates removed with inaccurate. The method that is proposed below allows you to get the exact patterns of all the details of the clothes you like without the slightest harm for her.

Stages of creating patterns

In order to make the pattern, you must prepare:

1. Material for templates (special paper, thin wallpaper, film, tank, etc.). If there are no paper of the desired size, then the standard sheets of A4 format are glued with scotch. If paper is thin, it will be necessary to put a large cardboard sheet (from the packaging container).
2. Soft litter (foam rubber sheet, terry towel or thin blanket).
3. Box pin, scissors, pencil, line. It is also desirable to stock up with lecturers and gear wheels.

A smooth surface is covered with a litter, it is placed on it for the pattern, and the top there is well-stroked clothes and carefully align it.

If the product has a simple cut (it is from such extras that it is recommended to start), its contours are driven on paper using a ruler and pencil. The curves of the line (neck, armor, etc.) are punctured by a pin or roll around with a gear wheel, after which the thing is removed, and the lines of punctum are removed using the pattern.

For clothing consisting of complex structural parts, the sequence of operations will be more complex. To remove the pattern, the thing is better to turn inside out, so that the seams are better visible, to prevent or ledes all the folds and assemblies on it. After that, it is necessary to determine which elements are symmetrical, and how the share thread passes.

Copy starts with the largest product details, if it is symmetrical, it can be bent in half. The sample thing is aligned, if necessary, pressed with something heavy and fix all base points with pins, sticking them right in the seam. Then, the pins are punched along the seam line (Fig. 2), or they make punctures with a needle, but it is best to use a gear wheel. When translating circuits, the direction of the share thread is noted.

Approve the formed punctures, we obtain the basic pattern of the product in which you need to check the main measurements and symmetry. In most cases, this pattern will have to refine. So, when copying trousers, what makes most often, the problem is the backup of the back of the trousers, which is impossible to decompose on the entire width on the plane. In this case, the copying is produced in two receptions. First, the pants are the back of the top so that one fold is accurately by inner seam, and the resulting contour is glowing. Then the trousers turn over so that their front side is on top, combine the side-fold with the line of the marked lateral circuit and stick over the side seam through the tissue the missing width of the rear part.

In order to properly transfer the solutions of the wrappers and the width of the folds to the pattern, they are measured directly on the product. Then the pattern should be cut in the appropriate places and push its parts into two values \u200b\u200bof the measured width.

When building a chest female clothing, the anterior shelf pattern is cut from the copied mark to the highest point of the chest, which is located at the crossing of the line of the armor and the line from the base of the neck, make the remotation itself for several centimeters in short (Fig. 4).

The total width of the width along the waistline during the stroke is added to the pattern width obtained when copying the width in this place, then make cutouts, respectively, their location and dimensions. If there is an assembly or circular fold on the details, then it is cut three times longer than the corresponding connecting seam.

And it is even easier

Modern materials allow you to make enough accurate patterns of complex products literally in a few minutes. Figure 5 shows the first stage of obtaining patterns with the help of painting tape.