Sweater under a pleated skirt. Actual styles of skirts. Types of pleats on skirts
The women's pleated skirt hides a rich ancient history. Over the course of many decades, it is periodically forgotten, and then again raised to the pedestal of the fashionable Olympus. Today, the pleated skirt is experiencing another revival and is on the list of the most popular trends. Stylists note modern women’s craving for graceful and romantic forms. Therefore, today, products stylized in the spirit of retro are especially in demand.
The birthplace of the kilt (skirt in a circular fold) is Scotland. Initially, clothing was intended exclusively for male warriors. She did not restrict movement in battles and did not interfere with horse riding. Until today, with circular folds, it is considered the national dress of the Scots.
In the future, women drew attention to the unusual cut. Today, pleated skirts are actively used in a variety of stylistic images.
Upon closer examination, it becomes clear that folds are distinguished by the way they are smoothed:
- one-sided - bookmark in a certain direction;
- opposite - folds are smoothed towards each other;
- bow - tucks "look" in different directions.
In essence, they are oncoming and similar to each other. It all depends on which side they are viewed from. So, the opposite fold laid over the face of the product turns into a bow fold, as soon as the skirt is turned inside out.
In addition, there are group, single, straight, asymmetric, fan folds. The pins are made of different depths (narrow / wide) and in any number. Pleats are directed from the waist to the hem. Such a skirt looks plastic, and during movement it sways in amplitude. Sometimes they are spent at the top for a few centimeters.
The length can also be arbitrary - from mini to floor-length skirt. Since pleated models belong to the category of classics, products up to the middle of the knee or midi are most often found.
What is the best to sew from?
Fabrics
When sewing clothes, they mainly use soft and loose materials that are easy to iron and keep their shape well. For example, with opposite folds, it is best obtained from silk and fabrics on a cotton or wool basis. The heavy falling one is very popular. It makes luxurious long skirts with opposite pleats, which are perfect for creating evening looks.
Products with multiple deep folds look spectacular. To sew them, you need to buy fabrics twice as much as for typical two-seam models. This significantly increases the cost of the final product. But the non-trivial style and versatility will fully compensate for any costs. If there is a skirt with opposite folds in the wardrobe, a woman feels confident in any life situation.
Colors
Skirts can be dyed in a wide variety of colors. Regarding prints, it has been noticed that pleated models severely limit their use. The reason is the distortion of the main pattern, which inevitably occurs when ironing out pintucks. The only print option that has no limitations is the traditional check. Moreover, a drawing with thin lines and wide stripes looks equally good.
You can also choose a fabric with a coupon lying horizontally at the bottom of the skirt. However, this option is not suitable for all women, because it visually expands the shape and reduces growth.
Who is it suitable for?
The main advantage of models with folds is unlimited age possibilities. These styles are especially recommended for people who prefer a classic style of clothing. A skirt with opposite folds round organically looks on little schoolgirls, teenage girls and adult girls. A strict straight skirt with opposite pleats looks great on young women and ladies of an elegant age.
Due to the specific cut, additional volume is formed in the thigh area. It contributes to the balance of proportions and the maximum approach of the body to the type. It is recommended to choose models in a fold for women with massive shoulders and lush breasts (body type). Multiple counter pintucks smoothly flow around narrow thighs, making up for the missing volume.
Despite the fact that the folds provide additional splendor, there are still successful styles for a full figure. For example, a skirt with opposing pleats in the front and a rigid belt clearly outlines the circumference of the waist, bringing the figure closer to ideal proportions.
Models with opposite folds look good on other types of female figures as well. So, a skirt without a belt visually increases growth. The most suitable option for this purpose is a skirt with opposite pleats at the waist, stitched a few centimeters down. This creates the illusion of a wide belt or stitched corset that slims the waist and taut the silhouette.
Another option for undersized ladies is a yoke skirt. The decorative detail emphasizes the waist area, tightly fits the hips and further expands due to deep folds. Underneath it manages to disguise bad knees.
With a counter pleat and with pockets, it is most suitable for girls with a figure type. A stitched belt precisely defines the waist, while overhead detailing adds extra expansion to the hips.
What to wear with? Photo
Multiple types of folds blend harmoniously into different stylistic sets. Models made from thin lightweight fabrics are organically combined with tops made from fabrics of a similar texture. Of the shoes, open sandals or high-heeled pumps are suitable for them.
A-line skirt with opposite pleats is often used to build office sets. It is recommended to combine with a light opaque shirt, a tight-fitting turtleneck and a strict laconic jacket.
Models with elastic bands are very convenient for those who are preoccupied with body shaping. Such skirts are more suitable for an informal setting: city walks, shopping, country holidays. They go well with sweaters, pullovers, knitted sweaters. On your feet, it is better to choose light ballet flats or comfortable slip-on shoes.
If you sometimes want to feel like a schoolgirl, then there is nothing better than a plaid skirt with opposite folds, a white shirt with a tie and bright knee-highs.
- a flirty little thing that makes any woman younger, and the silhouette more airy. It is suitable for both a formal event and a friendly walk. With what to combine a skirt to look one hundred percent?
A pleated skirt has become so firmly embedded in the wardrobe of a modern girl and woman that few would think of the assumption that this garment had previously been a man's. But in fact, the history of the pleated skirt begins in Scotland and is related to the well-known. The first pleated skirt was made in this country and was intended for the stronger sex.
However, the original execution of the skirt and the fact that it did not impede movement at all made it attractive for ladies too.
Everything you need to know about pleated skirt
The zest of the skirt is a cut with laid-in strips of fabric- in a certain direction, with opposite folds, narrow, wide, separate, group, asymmetric and stitched a couple of centimeters, in a word, the most diverse!
Folds can start from the waistband or below and continue all the way to the hem. A cut of this type makes the skirt wide, comfortable for active women, while it flutters beautifully when walking and, with the right choice of length, can be an excellent option for a strict dress code.
The traditional pleated skirt length is. There are also options for "mini", however, they are not as short as the same pencil skirts. There are also maxi options, but the length just above the knee, to the middle of the knee and just below the knee (the so-called French length) is considered optimal for the above cut.
Special cut
Ruffle skirt makes the figure subtly light and adds volume to the hips. If you are a happy owner of a slim figure, but want to make the silhouette even more feminine, be sure to pay attention to the cut of the corrugation, or.
Pleated skirts can be of any length, they look great both in mini and maxi lengths.
Korean mini skirts have not lost their popularity for many years. They are flirtatious, airy, made mainly in warm, light shades. Suitable for young girls with slender legs. The folds in Korean skirts are one-sided, in some models they are stitched up to the middle of the thigh.
Japanese skirts are known in our country primarily for cartoons and TV series. The pleated skirt is in the typical school uniform of Japanese school girls. It is longer than the Korean one, not light, but dark, the number of folds is much larger, and the belt at the waist is thinner.
As a rule, there is a contrasting two-strip bezel at the bottom of the skirt.
Who is it for?
Note that pleated skirts have or. This makes them comfortable to wear at work, walking and activities where you have to move a lot.
A variety of styles allows a woman with any figure to choose her skirt. Outfits with small and wide folds are suitable for thin people with a "" or "" silhouette. Both of them will make the figure more feminine and visually increase the volume of the hips.
Owners of figures "" and "" with a problem area in the abdomen and hips can also wear such skirts, but it is better to choose a small fold, stitched from the waist to the hips. This cut will fit the hips and, due to the flared bottom, will make the figure more airy and light.
The opposite folds perfectly hide the "heavy" bottom, suitable for girls who want to hide extra centimeters on the hips and even below the abdomen: for this, you should choose a skirt with a high waist.
Pleated skirts are not at all contraindicated for full ladies, they are even recommended. However, we advise you to choose not a small, but a large fold. You can be guided by the principle: the fuller the silhouette, the more folds should be. An excellent option in this case would be warm skirts for the winter. They are made of materials that fall beautifully like a bell.
Do not forget about bow folds, they provide the greatest volume below the waist, are designed for special events, look flirty and light.
Materials (edit)
Pleated skirts are sewn for both summer and winter, so a wide variety of fabrics are used. Starting from silk, viscose, denim and ending with gabardine, knitted textiles, satin, chiffon or jacquard. There are also products made of cotton, linen, velvet, satin and corduroy.
Looks with a pleated skirt
A pleated skirt can be worn for any reason, it is really possible to experiment with it, and we will show you right now how: we will select several stylish looks for different occasions.
To work on summer days
Take the pleated skirt of the optimal French length. We advise you to choose the color in accordance with the dress code in the organization. For example, a black skirt is considered the most businesslike.
Gray and white are more informal. In this case, the first option is suitable for business ladies, and the second will make the image flirty and airy.
You can also choose a bright skirt and complement the image with a sleeveless pastel top.
We complement the image with high-heeled shoes, and the woman is ready to go.
Autumn brightness
On a date
White long pleated skirts and similarly sewn capri pants are perfect for a walk. The look will turn out to be romantic if you add a straight cut blouse.
Sporty style
If you are a sports lover and lead an active lifestyle, this does not mean at all that you will have to give up a pleated skirt. After all, it goes well with T-shirts and sneakers.
Hello my dear readers! Today we will consider bow folds, we will learn how to make them payment and sew pleated skirt without pattern.
It should be noted that such a skirt model visually enlarges the hips, so it is ideal for creating an hourglass figure.
And today we will calculate the folds directly on the fabric without a pattern.
The skirt will be 70 cm + 6 cm long (for hemming the bottom - 5 cm, for the allowance for sewing on the belt - 1 cm) = 76 cm
For this skirt I needed:
- fabric 150 cm wide, I take two lengths 76 + 76 = 152 and also cut out a belt = total 160 cm
- concealed zipper for skirt
For such a skirt with bow pleats, you need to take three hip circles across the width.
My measurements:
- hip circumference = 100
- waist circumference = 75
Only for the measurement of the waist circumference, I will also take an increase in the freedom of fitting 3 cm.Total, my working size at the waist = 78 cm.
And in general, do not forget to wash the fabric and iron it with steam so that shrinkage occurs. There may be no shrinkage, but it can be very large (up to 20 cm per meter, if the fabric is natural).
We get two pieces of fabric 150 cm wide and 76 cm long.
Sew both cuts along one side seam. You will get a canvas 300 cm wide.
I want to clarify that the skirt will have two side seams, I put 1 cm on one side seam, and I put 2 cm on the side seam where the fastener will be. seams.
We process the allowances with a zig-zag and iron them out.
We process the bottom of the skirt, bending it by 5 cm (you can make a double hem to hide the raw allowance). We don't reach the edges by 10 cm.
Now lay the fabric face up and calculate the folds.
We measure from the top of the fabric 1 cm - the allowance for sewing on the belt and draw a line across the entire width of the fabric with a piece of soap or chalk. 
Now you need to decide how many folds you want to make. I will make 8 folds.
To do this, divide the waist circumference with an allowance of 78 cm by the number of folds = 78 ÷ 8 = 9.75 (width of the bow fold).
Now let's calculate how much fabric needs to be picked up for the folds:
- The total width of the panel for the skirt = 150 × 2 = 300 - 6 cm (for side seam allowances) = 294 cm.
- Subtract from this width the waist circumference with an increase in the freedom of fitting = 294 - 78 = 216 cm.
216 cm needs to be laid in 8 folds = 216 ÷ 8 = 27 cm per one opposite fold.
Description of the markings of folds on the fabric
From left to right, lay on the fabric half of the fold size 27 ÷ 2 = 13.5 cm.
We retreat 2 cm of the side allowance from the side of the fastener. And from the line of the side seam, set aside half the size of the fold of 13.5 cm.
Then we measure the size of the bow fold - 9.75 cm.Place it on the fabric.
Now we set aside the width of the opposite fold - 27 cm. Set it aside and divide it in half - we find its middle.
Then again we postpone the size of the bow fold, and the size of the opposite fold, etc. across the entire width of the fabric. After the fourth bow fold, set aside half of the opposite fold - 13.5 cm.
This is how we marked out one half of the skirt.
We also mark the second half of the skirt.
Now we decide what type of folds we want:
Sew the second side seam and insert a hidden zipper into the skirt, and now we will make a side belt.
Calculation of a belt for a pleated skirt
For example, the desired belt width is 3 cm.
In the cut, the width will be = (3 × 2) + 2 cm for allowances = 8 cm.
Belt length = 78 + 1 cm allowance on one side of the belt + 4 cm for the fastener (3 cm fastener + 1 cm allowance) = 83 cm.
When calculating the fabric, we laid 8 cm for the width of the belt, out of 160 cm of the fabric it took 152 cm for the length of the skirt - the rest is a cut for the belt. We measure the required length of the belt, cut out and glue the belt with an adhesive pad so that the belt does not stretch when wearing a skirt.
Usually the belt is cut out along the lobe thread of the fabric, i.e. the shared thread runs along the belt, as in this photo:
But it was inconvenient for us in this model to cut out the belt along the shared thread, since the entire width of the fabric for the skirt goes to the folds (150 +150), and in order not to reduce the skirt in width, we cut out the belt not along the shared thread, this is not critical, since we will duplicate it anyway.
Sew on the belt, process the buckle on the belt, as in this skirt. We insert a hidden zipper.
We process the bottom allowance that was left incomplete.
We iron the finished product, iron the folds if you do not leave them soft.
Despite the global popularity of trousers of a wide variety of cuts, fashion designers in no way lose sight of women's skirts. Thanks to creative imagination, interest in traditional clothing is constantly maintained. The skirt is endowed with a wonderful ability to transform any girl into a real beauty, which guarantees close attention of the opposite sex. This is due to the wide variety of styles and their multiple variations. A special place in the model line is occupied by a skirt with bow pleats. This wonderful little thing is familiar to every woman from childhood, because for many years it was an invariable attribute of the school life of Soviet children.
Scotland is considered to be the birthplace of magnificent style. After all, it was there that kilts were sewn - skirts with circular folds for men. The loose clothing did not create obstacles for the soldiers during the hostilities and were very comfortable when riding. The loose skirt appealed to women, and they quickly adopted the new fashion from men.
A special cut with soft folds creates additional volume on the hips, helping to balance the proportions of the torso and bring them as close as possible to the ideal "hourglass" type. It is recommended to be worn by persons with broad shoulders and a magnificent bust. In addition, voluminous bow folds successfully mask narrow hips.
Read also: What to wear with leather leggings: important style rules
This model is shown for obese women. The tight-fitting belt clearly defines the waist line, visually bringing the figure closer to the optimal parameters. Soft opposite folds are not at all contraindicated in other types of female constitution. For example, a model without a belt and with a high waist contributes to a visual increase in height. A skirt in which the folds are stitched from the top edge a few centimeters down will look especially good. The result will be the appearance of a wide one-piece belt that favorably emphasizes the waistline.
The model with wide bow folds is suitable for women of any age who prefer a classic style of clothing. In the photo from the model catwalks, it is clearly visible that the length of the product is most often done at the knee level or slightly below it.
Choosing the desired folds
There are several types of pintucks that are laid along the waistline:
- unilateral- having a single direction;
- counter- ironed towards each other;
- bow- one-sided folds, smoothed in different directions.
In addition, pleats on the skirt are wide or narrow, group or asymmetrical. There is no limit to the number of pinches on a garment. They start at the waist and flatten down to the hem. Thanks to this, the skirt acquires special flexibility and amplitude when moving.
There are folds: one-sided, counter, bow and fan folds. They can start from the belt at the waist, be partially stitched, ironed from top to bottom, or not ironed at all (soft folds).
Each fold has width and depth... If the fold is full, then its depth is twice the width.
Sometimes, to save fabric, the depth of the fold is reduced; such a fold is called incomplete.
So that the folds do not diverge at the bottom, each has brace, which is built due to the depth of the fold, and to the waistline or the top of the dart along the hip line disappears. The size of the brace depends on the departure height.
Departure- not sewn, freely falling part of the fold. The smaller the departure, the smaller the brace along the bottom of the skirt.
On the patterns, folds are indicated by arrows and, as a rule, they are depicted as they are visible from the front side. This means that the folds are laid in the direction of the arrow. on the front side... But mark the folds on the seamy side fabric with fine lines, chalk, soap or a special water-soluble felt-tip pen for fabric.
Usually, the pattern of a pleated skirt is not built on paper, but calculated and marked immediately on the seamy side of the fabric.
Outer rib folds are laid along the brace and aligned with the next brace in the drawing (blue lines). Inner rib folds are indicated in the drawing with a dashed line.
The direction of folding the fold is shown in all drawings with a blue arrow. 
Circular pleat skirt
With the outward simplicity of a pleated skirt, constructing a pattern requires calculations, attentiveness and understanding of the process.
Measurements for calculating pleated skirts
For the drawing, the following measurements will be needed: OT (waist circumference), OB (hip circumference) and DU (skirt length). The increase in CO (free fitting) is usually 2-4 cm.
In our example, FROM = 76 cm, OB = 104 cm, DU = 70 cm. The increase in SB = 3 cm. For a skirt in a full circular fold, three OB + an increase in SB will be needed; 3 * OB + 3 = 3 * 104 + 3 = 321 cm.
Calculating the width, depth and number of folds
We define amount of fabric at the depth of all folds: 321- (OB + 3) = 321 - (104 + 3) = 214 cm.
We define number of folds, using in the calculation the value of OB + an increase in CO = 104 + 3 = 107 cm. We divide this value by the required number of folds. The width of the fold usually varies from 2 to 6 cm. In our example, the width of the fold is 4 cm; 107: 4 = 26.75 cm. That is, 26 folds are placed in the calculated width.
The remainder after dividing by 3 cm is evenly distributed into 26 folds (1 mm per fold). Each fold is 4.1 cm wide.
Examination. We divide the amount of fabric by the depths of all folds by the number of folds, we get the depth of one fold: 214 : 26 = 8.2 cm. The obtained value of the fold depth is exactly twice the width, which means that the whole calculation was done correctly!
The width of the fold is 4.1 cm, the depth of the fold is 8.2 cm, the number of folds is 26 pieces.
The difference OB - FROM = 104 - 76 = 28 cm is evenly distributed in all the folds along the waist line. This will be approximately 1 cm for each fold: 28 cm: 26 pieces = 1.07 cm / piece. Add 0.5 cm to the depth of each fold on each side.
Consumption and marking on fabric
Important! When marking folds on the fabric, remember that 321 cm width does not exist in nature, so the fabric will have to be joined in width from 90, 110 or 140–150 cm wide panels. Make sure that the joining seams are located in the inner edge of the fold.
Before you start marking folds on the fabric, we advise you to sweep the bottom of each panel by the amount of hem and iron it. We do the markup on the seamy side!
We measure 1.5–2 cm from the upper edge of the cut and draw a horizontal line (along the weft threads) across the entire width of the fabric. This is the waist line. Draw a second horizontal line downward at a distance of 18-20 cm from the waist line - the line of the hips.
Remember that there will be docking seams along the width of the skirt, and they are sewn into the inner edge of the fold. Therefore, it is necessary to start and finish the marking from the edge of the fabric with a 1 cm seam allowance. Then we set aside half the fold depth and draw a vertical line exactly along the warp thread (shared thread). From it we postpone the calculated values: * fold width, fold depth, from * repeat to the edge of the fabric.
After all the folds are marked, at the bottom of each we mark the size of the slope, and along the LT the narrowing by the difference OB - FROM = 0.5 cm on each side of the fold depth. We connect the marked points, as shown in the drawing, with blue lines.
In our example, 11 folds are placed in a 140 cm wide fabric. The whole skirt needs 26 pleats. Therefore, a skirt with full circular folds will need three pieces of fabric with a width of 140 cm, and some part of the fabric from the last piece will remain, it will be more than enough for a belt.
Let's calculate the length of the fabric for the entire skirt from our example, taking into account the hem and seam allowances. In our example, this is 3 * (DU + 2 + 4) = 3 * (70 + 2 + 4) = 228 cm with a fabric width of 140 cm.
We lay and iron
Sweep the folds along the marking lines, aligning the fold (outer edge) with the line of the next fold.
Sew the fold from top to bottom with hand basting stitch. According to the outline, we sew each fold down from the waist line by the required amount. At the end of the stitch, we bartack or continue the seam, stitching the fold across to the inner edge. We do not delete the basting.
We lay each fold in the direction of the arrow and iron it from the front side. The folds will hold for a long time if you iron them along both edges - the inner and outer ribs.
Advice: if the lines of the inner edges are printed on the front side of the product, we put a strip of cardboard under the fold of the fabric in order to level the difference
Partially stitched folds
As mentioned above, the pleat can be partially stitched down from the waistline at various sizes. As a rule, pleats do not overlap more than ¾ of the length. It is already impractical and ugly to be stuck below. Most often, the folds are sewn up to the hip line and sometimes they are pulled through all layers to the edge or by the size of the finishing line. 
In the drawing, on the example of one fold, the dependence of the values of the brace - departure is shown.
It can be seen that the lower the fold is stitched, the smaller the brace becomes. Dotted lines of lilac color show the line of finishing stitching - up to the mark of the end of the sewn section of the fold. 
To build other types of folds, you need a pattern for the base of a straight skirt, along which you have already sewed and the result suits you.
Counter fold consists of two one-sided folds, converging towards each other "end-to-end". Sew up the fold from the waist line to the mark on the drawing (in all drawings, the mark is shown with a dashed lilac line).
The drawing can be made directly on the fabric. Cut the pattern in the center of the front and push both halves apart to the desired fold depth. Be sure to make a brace and draw a departure, which serves as the outer edge of the fold. In the drawing, blue arrows show the direction of folding the fold - towards the center of the front. 
Before marking, hem the hem of the skirt and iron it on the wrong side. 
The assembly sequence of the opposite fold is shown in the photo. We pin it off with pins and sweep away the departure lines. 
Fold the fold up to the mark, iron it out, remove the basting. 
Bow pleat consists of two one-sided ones, which diverge in different directions from the axis of symmetry and form an opposite fold on the seamy side of the product. There may be several bow or counter folds on the skirt.
The assembly sequence of the bow fold is shown in the photo below. We sweep away the folds along the departure lines, iron it, lay it in the center (middle of the front). 
Zap each fold from the waistline to the mark. 
Fan fold- a kind of counter, which consists of several folds.
The fan fold is of two types - closed and open. A closed fan fold when unopened looks like a normal counter fold.
Have closed fan fold braces are built only at the very first (upper) folds.
The photo below shows a closed fan fold from the front and back sides. 
Have open fan fold braces are built on all folds without exception. 
Depending on the number of folds and the nature of the fabric, a large number of folds in several layers can result in significant thickness, which can be avoided with the following technique. We mark the folds, put marks to which the folds will be stitched, and cut out the excess fabric in the area to be sewn, leaving allowances for the seam. 
Fold and iron the folds, secure them at the top with basting stitches. 
We sew all the folds horizontally, attaching them to the skirt. 
Pleated a-line skirt
Author: Zvezdopad
Every pleat on this skirt is a trapezoid. In statics, the A-silhouette is clearly visible, until the wind begins to play with folds. That's when the magic appears - with a large amount of fabric, it does not look bulky. The folds do not diverge from the waist and do not puff up, the illusion is created that initially we are dealing with a half-sun cut. However, the skirt consists of rectangular pieces of fabric.
How many of them are on the skirt? At least two if FROM(waist circumference) no more than 70 cm, and the width of the fabric is 1.45 m. In our example, the skirt consists of three panels.
The calculation of the width and depth of one fold is based only on FROM... Hip girth does not matter.
Calculation of the width of one fold. In our example, FROM 84 cm. There are 12 folds in the skirt, the width of each along the waist line is 7 cm (84/12 = 7 cm).
Depth of one fold along the waist line is 4 times the width, in our example 7 * 4 = 28 cm.
We set aside the dimensions in the drawing from the axes of symmetry, the width of the fold is 3.5 + 3.5 = 7 cm, the depth of the fold is 14 + 14 = 28 cm.
Important! The axis of symmetry of the fold is placed strictly along the warp thread (lobar thread) of the fabric.
The dimensions at the bottom of the drawing depend on the length of the skirt - 85 cm in our example. 
The scheme of laying folds. In the drawing, the width of the fold is highlighted in color. Step one: we lay the edge of the first fold to the axis of symmetry of the fold depth. Step two: - lay the edge of the second fold to the edge of the first. 
This unusual way of laying folds is rather difficult to perform immediately on the fabric. To understand the principle, let's practice on a piece of paper.
It is impractical to trim each fold along the waist line; we do this only when all the folds are laid. There is no need to trim the skirt along the bottom line. 
This is how four ready-made folds look on the fabric. In our example, cambric with silk is used - the fabric is thin and flexible. Therefore, the edge of each fold is ironed. If your fabric is more stable, you can chalk it out and not iron it. 
Advice. Make one sheet at a time, because there are three of them in our skirt and by the end of the work the width will be 4.5 m. Such a volume is quite difficult to work with.
After all three panels are ready, we sew them together. In one of the seams we make a fastener, in our example - a hidden zipper. It is best to do it at the junction of the first two panels. 
And then sew them with the third. Don't forget about seam allowances! 
In the vastness of the Internet, there was a similar skirt made of denser fabric, which makes it possible to demonstrate how differently it can look.
In our example, one extra fold was included in the calculation to make a belt with a partial elastic, this added convenience to the skirt. You can experiment by reducing the depth of the fold, choosing a thin, but shaped fabric, or reinforcing the bottom with a soft stretch - there are as many options as possible. 