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Types of shirt collars - names and photos. All kinds of men's shirts: detailed classification with photos

The classic men's shirt has long become a full-fledged, if not the most important, element of the wardrobe of any man who works in the office or, due to his kind of activity, attends all kinds of official events. Even if this is not so, then in the life of any man there are always cases when a beautiful and elegant shirt is most welcome - dates, weddings, anniversaries, etc.

You can’t do without a classic shirt if your organization has a strict dress code. Actually, it was this moment that prompted me to begin to understand the details and nuances of this item of men's wardrobe. My husband got a position in a large international company and the requirements for appearance have changed quite a lot. As a result, not only washing and ironing shirts, but also their search and purchase fell on fragile women's shoulders.

Naturally, I did not want to overpay local sellers at all, so purchases were concentrated in American and European online stores. And here I came across a lot of nuances that you need to know about a men's shirt. If everything is quite simple with the type of fabrics, then I had to tinker with the choice of types of collar, cuffs, cut. It is quite difficult to search on the Internet for something that you do not know the name in English.

A modern classic shirt can have a fairly large number of collar options. The use of a shirt with one or another type of collar may be due to both the general style of your clothes and the moment or reason for which the shirt is worn. Consider the basic, most common forms of collars.

This is the most strict collar, most suitable for conservative people, formal events and at the same time being the best option for any, even the most strict, dress code.

Initially, the classic collar assumed a distance from the top button to the end of the collar of 7.5 cm, but modernity makes its own adjustments and today exactly 7 cm is the standard.

The ends of the classic collar are located at a small distance from each other and can slightly cover the tie knot. Although a butterfly may well be suitable for a classic collar.

In online stores, this type of collar may be referred to as Classic Collar or Point Collar.

The Italian type of collar is one of the varieties of the classic. Unlike the classic one, this type of collar has the ends slightly more widely separated to the sides and slightly elongated. In principle, all this is a classic, which is naturally suitable for both a tie and a bow tie.

At the same time, the somewhat elongated shape of the ends of the collar makes it possible to use such a shirt for informal pastime, when the absence of a tie is allowed.

To search for a shirt with a similar type of collar, you can use the phrase Italian Collar

The Kent collar model is also considered one of the varieties of the classic collar. This is a turn-down collar, with longer and sharper ends than the classic one. When buttoned, it forms an acute triangle. A shirt with such a collar is universal and does not lend itself to fashion trends. This type of collar goes well with a tie and business suit of any cut, but it is desirable that the tie knot is not very massive.

American manufacturers and stores refer to this type of collar as Kent Collar. In the European version, this type of collar is also referred to as the Oxford Point Collar.

But the Shark-type collar is already significantly different from its classic counterparts. This is a turn-down collar with ends that can be of various shapes, but at the same time widely separated to the sides. When buttoned, such a collar forms an obtuse triangle, and the ends of the collar may be parallel to the ground. This type of collar is most used by English manufacturers, because. he is loved by the inhabitants of Foggy Albion because he allows the use of heavy and dense ties that require more space. But by a strange coincidence, this type of collar also has a second name - French.

Wearing a shirt with a shark collar without a tie is not accepted. Instead of a tie, a bow tie may well be suitable. A shirt with a similar type of collar will go well with a classic business suit, but will not work with a tuxedo or jacket.

Look for shirts with this type of collar using the keywords Cut-away Collar or French Collar.

This is a stand-up collar, but with elongated and pointed ends, bent to the sides at an angle of 45 degrees.

This type of collar is designed to use a bowtie or neckerchief, which is tied around the neck and stabbed with a decorative pin.

The Butterfly collar is ideal for a tuxedo or tailcoat and is mainly used only in combination with them.

This collar model is most popular in the USA, although English manufacturers also produce shirts with such a collar. A distinctive feature of this type of collar is a special strap on the clasp that connects the ends of the collar to each other and fixes the position of the collar. This clasp is hidden under the knot of the tie.

It is quite clear that such a shirt is unlikely to look good with the top buttons unbuttoned or without a tie.

Look for shirts with this type of collar by the keyword Tab Collar.

This type of collar has Chinese roots. Hence its rather specific name. This is a low and narrow stand-up collar without any turn-down edges. The ends of the collar can be either rectangular or rounded.

The buttons of a shirt with a collar of this style can be hidden under the placket. It is customary to wear a classic shirt with a mandarin collar only with a service jacket. There are also casual shirts with a stand-up collar, but this is no longer a suit option.

Button-down collar is difficult to confuse with other types of collars. It has one distinctive feature - the ends of the collar are attached to the shirt with buttons. The shape of the ends of the collar may vary, but the main element - the buttons - will remain unchanged.

This is a turn-down collar with long edges turned up so that there is a small distance between them, which is just enough for a compact narrow tie. Shirts with this type of collar are considered informal and even sporty, so they can be worn without a tie, with the top button unbuttoned.

For the most part, these are soft collars, so this men's shirt will look harmonious in an informal setting, for example, on vacation. You can wear such a shirt by wearing a sweater, jumper, sports jacket or cardigan on top.

At official or solemn events, a shirt with such a collar will not look quite appropriate.

At present, informal shirts with rather exaggerated collars with high racks have come into fashion. But the presence of buttons, with which the edges of the collar are fastened either to the collar bar or to the shirt itself, still make it possible to attribute this type of collar to Button-down.

The cuff of the sleeve is the second detail of your shirt, which may differ from model to model and the choice of which must also be approached responsibly.

Whatever type of cuff you choose, proceed from the general rule for the length of the shirt sleeve - the cuff should completely cover the wrist (lowered in a free position) and end in the area of ​​​​the first bone joint of the thumb.

Classic cuff with one button closure. It can be used both in strict classic shirts and in formal, casual options. The use of such a cuff is practically independent of the cut of the shirt itself. One-button cuffs can be seen on both classic fit and slim fit shirt cuts.

The edges of the cuff may be straight, beveled at an angle, or rounded.

One of the varieties of a cuff with one button is a cuff with two buttons (convertable), but located not along the cuff, but across it. This allows you to fasten the cuff of the shirt either more tightly, or vice versa, to make it more loose.

A cuff with two buttons along the length is less typical of classic shirts, although some manufacturers sometimes use it when sewing. Much more often, such cuffs can be seen on informal shirts and shirts in casual style. If we talk about the cut of the shirt, then the cuff with 2 buttons is more often used in Slim fit and Exta slin fit models.

2-button cuffs are usually slightly longer than usual. The edges of the cuff can also be straight, beveled or rounded.

A double cuff is a cuff that fastens with a cufflink. The second and fairly common name for this type of cuff is French (French cuff). The main feature of this cuff is that it is folded in half and has through holes for cufflinks.

Cufflinks - this is the lot of classic strict shirts for a suit, regardless of the cut of the shirt. Variations of the double cuff and casual shirts are of course also found, but not so often. This is more the exception than the rule.

The edges of the cuff can also be straight, beveled and rounded.

A classic-cut shirt is more of an office style, as it not only looks formal, but also emphasizes the status of its owner. Basically, these shirts are worn with a business suit and tie. The classic cut is most suitable for stocky men and men of a dense physique, because. implies sufficient fullness of the shirt in the chest area and in the belt (belly) area. In the most classic version, such a shirt has an almost straight cut.

Shirts of a similar cut should sit on their owner quite freely, without restricting movements, but at the same time not form “bubbles” on the sides or on the back. On the back, under the yoke, folds are allowed in the area of ​​​​the shoulder blades or in the center.

Shirts with a similar cut have semi-adjacent shapes that follow the contours of the wearer's body. That is why this type of shirt is most suitable for men with an athletic and slender physique. The width of the shirt gradually decreases in the direction from the chest to the waist and then expands towards the hips. Thus, compliance with the shape of the shirt of the anatomical features of people with an athletic build is achieved.

In a fitted shirt, you can go both to the office and on a date, a party, a festive family event. She looks good with a tight tie. In addition, shirts with a similar cut can be worn simply with trousers, without a jacket. But it should be borne in mind that a fitted shirt is harder to choose, because it is necessary that it is not too narrow and not too loose.

The back in shirts with this cut is usually made straight, without folds under the yoke, but has characteristic seams on the sides in the waist area, which allow you to "select" excess material and achieve a tight-fitting silhouette.

Everything that has been said above regarding slim fit shirts is also true for extra slim fit shirts. This cut is designed for people with a thin physique and has rather small measurements in width around the chest and waist. Thus, the fit of the shirt to the body is achieved, without the formation of strong "bubbles" in the chest and waist area.

French pleat - the button placket is completely absent.

Do you think that everything is simple in the world of shirts, and all the differences between different models are limited to color and fabric? Not at all! Take the collar, for example: there are at least a dozen varieties of shirt collars - and this is not taking into account small variations that often have their own name and are in the assortment of a very limited circle of manufacturers or even available only when tailoring shirts to order. I will not consider such exotic options, but I will describe the most basic ones. I will start with the form, and continue with the design, height and color schemes.

collar shape

It is determined primarily by its angle, which can be, like any angle, acute, straight and obtuse. Perhaps the most common are collars with an angle close to a straight line or almost straight. They are also the most versatile.

Classic collar with moderately close corners (forward-point or just point)

One of the most famous variants of this collar is called Kent (Kent) - it has an almost right angle and is very wide. Not very large tie knots are combined with such a collar (Windsor should be abandoned), but in general it is quite versatile and suitable for both formal and not too formal occasions.

Below you can see two pictures: the first one (Olymp shirt) shows a Kent type collar - wide, with an almost right angle; on the second (Canali shirt) - a collar with the same angle, but narrower.

Which option to choose? Depends on your face! If it is large, wide, then it is better to choose a wide collar. If thin, then a narrow version will do. By the way, small tie knots and thin ties will be better combined with a narrow version.

As for the angle, the most versatile option is 80-90 degrees. An angle of less than 60 degrees is contraindicated for both wide and very thin and long faces: in other words, there are not so many options for successful matches in this case. However, collars with such an angle are now very rare.

Collars with far located corners (spread collar)

It's an obtuse angle. In the case of a spread collar, it can be 120-160 degrees, and in the case of a cutaway, it sometimes exceeds 180 degrees. Some manufacturers call, by the way, spread collars with the words Regent collar (Turnbull & Asser, Polo Ralph Lauren). The word Kent mentioned above is also sometimes used in relation to a spread / cutaway collar; in addition, sometimes such collars are called new Kent.


Spread/cutaway collars work well with large tie knots, including Windsor knots - although most experts tend to think that the Windsor knot is generally unsuccessful and almost always looks too massive. Cutaway collars are official; they are commonly paired with suits (especially double-breasted suits) and double-breasted blazers. As for the combination with the shape of the face, the cutaway option is more suitable for owners of thin and slightly (!) Elongated faces; but if the face is very long, then cutaway is not the best option.

In general, 120-130 degree spread collars are more versatile than 180+ cutaways.

Collar on a pin (pin collar)

If the angle is very small, then the collar is equipped with a pin; shirts with such a collar are worn only with a tie, and the tie knot should be small. These shirts are very rare for sale.

Collar with additional button (tab collar)

It differs from the pin collar in the absence of a pin and the presence of a special additional tie on the button. Worn only with a tie (not too thick and with a small knot) and is also rare. The angle at such a collar is small. Nicolò Antogiovanni calls the tab collar a versatile collar suitable for both formal and informal wear, but this is now debatable, as many people wear shirts without ties.

Collar with button-down corners

I think that everyone has seen such a collar. It comes in two types: the classic American from Brooks Brothers with a long elegant slope and the modernized European, narrower. Despite the fact that Brooks Brother's is considered a classic, you should not refuse the second option, especially since Brooks Brothers have already included the corresponding shirts in their range. However, the first option is considered more elegant.


It should be noted that the collar with buttoned corners is informal, it is not customary to combine it with strict double-breasted suits and jackets and wear it in any formal circumstances. A tie is optional, but quite acceptable - only it should not be too strict a tie.

Turn-down collar

On the contrary, it is a formal collar, which is combined only with a tuxedo or with a tailcoat and a bow tie.

Collar with rounded corners (club collar)

A very rare model that looks unusual and old-fashioned. Shirts with such collars are produced almost exclusively by designer brands (for example, Gucci), they look ambiguous, but in general they are quite pleasant. It is believed that they should not be worn by owners of full round faces. It is worth adding that such a collar is considered unofficial.

Informal padded collar

This collar does not fasten with a button. It is impossible to wear a tie with him; shirts with such collars are worn only in an informal setting; do not combine with costumes. Shirts of this kind are produced mainly by Italians - for example, Incotex / Glanshirt and Finamore.

Collar design

The collars of formal shirts have a lining that gives them shape. This lining can be glued into the collar (and then the collar is called fused) or sewn into it (non-fused).

Soft, unlined collar

In informal shirts (such as but not limited to button-down corners) there is often no lining, resulting in a collar that looks casual and informal. See above for a Brooks Brothers button-down collar and a casual Finamore shirt.

Glued collar (fused)

If there is a padding in the collar, and it is glued, then the collar looks very strict and, as some people think, lifeless. However, almost all manufacturers of ready-made shirts glue the collars (including top Italian brands). A glued collar has one indisputable advantage: it is easier to iron and holds its shape better. There is a chance that over time the adhesive layer will dry out and bubbles will appear on the collar, but very high quality adhesive materials are used now - even in inexpensive shirts.

Stitched collar (non-fused)

This is a traditional design. Such collars can be found in shirts of English manufacturers, in particular Harvie & Hudson, Hilditch & Key, New & Lingwood, T.M. Lewin, Turnbull & Asser. They look more lively (although sometimes), but they iron worse and wrinkle more. Conservatives, however, prefer this option. A stitched collar is traditionally thought to be an indication of a higher quality shirt, but in practice this is no longer the case.

Read more about fused/non-fused constructions.

collar height

Almost all collars fasten with one button. But there are exceptions: collars with two, three and even four and five buttons. If two buttons are still back and forth (although it looks somewhat pretentious), then four or five is a good exhibit for a museum of stylistic curiosities. Such shirts are produced by some Italians (for example, Brianza), as well as Turks and Chinese.

An important nuance: collars with two or more buttons are suitable only for those who have a rather long neck. If your neck is short, then it runs the risk of simply disappearing under a high collar. If the neck, on the contrary, is very long, then a collar with two and maybe even three buttons will look good.

Collar color scheme

The collar can be the same color/pattern as the shirt, or it can contrast with it. Shirts with a contrasting white collar are considered quite formal, dressy and can look very nice. As a rule, the cuffs of such shirts are also white and are fastened with cufflinks. This is the most classic version, but now it is full of shirts with a contrasting collar and buttoned cuffs.

Shirts with contrasting collars in all colors except white are considered by fans of the classics and conservatives to be bad manners, respectively, they can only be worn in an informal setting. In addition, a contrasting button-down collar is also considered bad manners.

Many men, when choosing a shirt, underestimate the importance of its collar. Although it is this detail that complements the image, making it complete and bright. When choosing a men's shirt with a collar, stylists advise paying attention to the type of face and, based on it, choose a collar with opposite characteristics to create balance.

A too long oval face is easily visually corrected with a slightly wider than usual collar. If the neck is short, you should not wear high collars, outwardly they will remove a few more centimeters (in such cases, a short stand-up collar will do). If the face and neck are medium in size, then the collars of men's shirts, respectively, are medium in size. If a round face is combined with a thick neck, then you should not choose a shirt with small turn-down collars, in this case collars with sharp corners will do.

Men's shirt collar device

1. ends (Collar Points) - pointed parts of the collar lapels (strips of fabric turned down)
2. Lapel length (Collar Point Length) - the distance between the pointed ends of the collar and the stand.
3. Rack (Collar Band) - a strip of fabric wrapped around and directly adjacent to the neck.
4. collar height (Collar Height) - the transverse width of the collar as it should sit on the neck turned away.
5. Tie cutout (Tie Space) - the gap between the upper parts of the lapels in the buttoned state.
6. Notch Width (Spread) - the distance between the ends of the collar.

Collars on men's shirts

The shape of the collar is determined primarily by its angle, which can be, like any angle, sharp, straight and obtuse. Perhaps the most common are collars with an angle close to a straight line or almost straight. This form of men's shirt collar is the most versatile. From time to time, shirt collars with rounded ends come into fashion. Interestingly, these roundings can appear on almost all types of turn-down collars.

There are several basic types of collars, and each has its own characteristics. If you are fluent in them, you can easily choose the perfect men's shirt.

Types of collars

Most men can distinguish between about five types of shirt collars. This is a traditional turn-down collar, which is commonly called a classic, a stand-up collar, a butterfly collar, a collar with buttons and a collar without a top button, as in a Hawaiian shirt.






The size of any gate under the influence of fashion can change up or down from some average size. Usually this happens in sync with the change in the width of the lapels of suit jackets.

Collar names

Naturally, all varieties of collars have their own names, most of which do not say anything to the Russian-speaking reader. With the exception of the above-mentioned classic collar, which is used when sewing, a butterfly collar and a stand (mandarin). And another variety of the traditional collar called "shark", which is characterized by ends widely separated to the sides. By the way, this form of shirt collar allows you to wear a tie with a large knot and even a bow tie (but only with a regular suit, not with a tailcoat). The direct opposite of this collar is “kent”, since the latter has sharp tips looking down. This collar is considered to be perhaps the most versatile for wearing with traditional suits and ties. In addition, it suits people with different looks.
And here are some more names of shirt collars:

business collars

  • narrow end
  • Conservative
  • Traditional
  • Average spread
  • Kensington

fashion collars

  • Jermyn Street
  • fashion spread
  • Wide spread
  • Artizan
  • British spread
  • Curved spread
  • Curved business card
  • Business card

European collars

  • Continental
  • Soavi
  • Stephen
  • Boar
  • Baton Down
  • University
  • Truman
  • Round Pin
  • Looped ends
  • Snap Tab
  • Albini
  • Vario
  • Varno
  • Crombie

Any person who cares about their appearance when wearing a business suit should know some of the differences and types of shirt collars.

In fact, the collar is the center of your image for two reasons. The first reason is that the collar is close to the face, and the second reason is that the tie that you tie comes out from behind the collar and complements this “ensemble” of a business look.


Thus, knowing the basic types of collars on a shirt, and knowing how to combine them with a tie, is more important than many men really think. We will look at several types of collars, explain how to choose a tie for a particular collar, as well as which tie knot is better to choose.

Classic, with corners down

Most shirts or shirts are sewn with a collar, the pointed ends of which look down. There are some variations, from slightly splayed to the sides, to wide splayed ends. From wide collars to very short ones, as well as in the design of the collar tips. They have names: "Shark", "Kent" (by the way, that's what it is called), "Crombie". Which style to choose is up to you. However, there are some recommendations: a wider collar with a combination of widely separated tips will suit men with a thin and long neck, creating a proportion. For men whose neck is short and large in volume, a shorter collar with narrowly spaced ends will do.

Depending on the collar you choose, you need to pick up a knot for a tie. Depending on the width of the divorced tips, you need to tie different knots. For example, for a "Kent" collar, or is suitable, while for a "Shark" collar (sometimes called "Shark Fin"), or is suitable.

Button down collar

A shirt with a button-down collar is perfect for those who want to look informal in. This shirt can be worn with or without a tie. Most collars are made with medium ends, so a medium-sized knot is necessary for such a shirt. Great choice: or. It is recommended to always fasten buttons, with or without a tie.

Collar on a pin

The ends of such a collar are fastened with a special pin (usually included). The look of such a collar, combined with a tie and a well-chosen large knot, gives a sophisticated look to its owner.