Do-it-yourself shirt for a boy Russian blouse. How to sew a Russian shirt for men: mandatory elements of the traditional cut of a blouse

Men's shirt: how to sew and embroider

Shirt - The most ancient, most beloved and widespread underwear of the ancient Slavs was a shirt. Linguists write that its name comes from the root "rub" - "piece, cut, piece of fabric" - and (akin to the word "cut", which once also had the meaning of "cut." Presumably, the history of the Slavic shirt really began in the depth of centuries from a simple piece of cloth, bent in half, equipped with a hole for the head and fastened with a belt.

Then the back and front were sewn together, sleeves were added. Scientists call this cut "tunic-like" and argue that it was approximately the same for all segments of the population, only the material and the nature of the finish changed. The common people wore mostly linen shirts, for winter they were sometimes sewn from "tsatra" - fabric made from goat down. Rich, noble people could afford shirts made of imported silk, and not later than the 13th century, cotton fabric began to come from Asia. In Russia it was called "Zenden".

Another name for a shirt in Russian was "shirt", "shirt", "shitty". This is a very old word related to Old Icelandic serk "and Anglo-Saxon" sjork "through common Indo-European roots. Some researchers see the difference between a shirt and a shirt. A long shirt, they write, was made of a coarser and thicker material, while a short and light shirt was made of a thinner and softer one. So gradually it turned into linen proper ("shirt", "cover"), and the upper shirt began to be called "koshul", "top". But this also happened later, in the XIII century.

The men's shirt of the ancient Slavs was approximately knee-length. It was always girded, while tugging, so that it turned out to be something like a bag for the necessary items. Scientists write that the shirts of the townspeople were somewhat shorter than the peasants'. Women's shirts were usually cut to the floor (according to some authors, this is where the “hem” comes from). They were also necessarily belted, with the lower edge most often found in the middle of the calf. Sometimes, during work, shirts were pulled up to the knee.

The men's shirt of the ancient Slavs was approximately knee-length. It was always girded, while tugging, so that it turned out to be something like a bag for the necessary items. Scientists write that the shirts of the townspeople were somewhat shorter than the peasants'. Women's shirts were usually cut to the floor (according to some authors, this is where the “hem” comes from). They were also necessarily belted, with the lower edge most often found in the middle of the calf. Sometimes, during work, shirts were pulled up to the knee.

Men's shirt and its features

On the basis of ethnographic data of the 18-20th centuries, G.S. Maslova, there are four main types of men's shirts:

1. Tunic.
2. With straight polics.
3. With narrow shoulder patches.
4. On the yoke.

The tunic-like cut of a man's shirt is the oldest cut known to us, and at the same time the most widespread cut. There are two types of tunic-like shirt: "with barrels" and "without barrels". A shirt "with barrels" is formed from a cloth folded along the weft (a collar is cut at the place of the fold); to the central (middle) panel, straight panels are sewn, forming "barrels" and a straight-cut sleeve.

The tunic shirt "with barrels" has several options:

With straight whole casks;
- with beveled side panels (a later form that embossed a shirt with straight barrels);
- with barrels cut "in a clumsy" or "in the castle" (in the northern regions);
- with side wedges inserted on each side from the back between the middle and side panels, while straight barrels widened by the insert of wedges were sewn into the assembly (early 20th century in Altai);
- a "bell". The peculiarity of its cut is that the side panels are bent over the shoulders in the same way as the central one. It has straight sleeves and a straight collar slit;
- a tunic-like shirt without a barrel made of one folded wide cloth. Such shirts were made mainly of factory fabric; a shirt with barrels was made of homespun canvas;

Shirts made of one folded canvas. They were made in Transcarpathia, had a specific cut of the sleeves sewn into the assembly.

Tunic-like shirts were made with a straight or oblique slit on the chest; without a "holosheyka" collar or with a "stand-up" collar. "Holosheyku" I with a straight cut on the chest is considered the most ancient. An oblique cut was made on the left, often the shirt was complemented by a stand-up collar and a button fastening.

Men's shirts were sewn from homespun canvas, which retained the natural color of the fibers, so such shirts were necessarily ornamented. From generation to generation, embroidery or weaving patterns were passed on, they were not accidental. Randomness in the ornament appeared in the late 19th and early 20th centuries in places where there was a strong influence of the city (Moscow region).

In ancient times, people conveyed their world, their ideas about it, their relationship with the world in conventional pictorial language. It was the first code system invented by man and had a magical meaning for him.

As noted by B.A. Rybakov, in the work of the ancients, two principles existed and competed with each other: the more ancient magical and the aesthetic that was replacing it.

The shirt in the eyes of our ancestors possessed magical powers: protected the most vulnerable parts of the body - neck, legs, arms. Therefore, they covered the neck, the bottom of the sleeves, and the hem of the shirt with an ornament-amulet. They are the places where the ornament is traditionally located. The gusset could also be a colored decorative piece. Along with patterned weaving and embroidery, braid, sequins, braid, buttons, beads, and a strip of kumach were widely used as decor. In terms of the richness of jewelry, the men's festive shirt was sometimes not inferior to the women's.

Drawing material for a man's shirt.

No picture homespun canvas, natural color;
Red, burgundy, dark red, dark boron monochromatic;
The cage is small, color: a combination of white - red, dark maroon - black;
Small stripe, color: blue - white, red - black - yellow, burgundy - black;
Printed color pattern, color: red, black, variegated, small pattern.

Cut of a man's shirt

Male costume of the Old Believers of the Altai Territory.
Only those samples of the male costume of the Old Believers of the Altai Territory, which have been preserved in the collections of local history museums, have survived to our time. Therefore, we can consider them in less detail, but with a complete description of the traditional cut.

Shirt.
Old Russian men's shirts were also of a straight cut, tunic-like form and were cut from a cloth folded in half. The sleeves were made narrow and long. The names of some details of the men's shirt are similar to the names in the women's shirt: stanovina, sleeves, gussets (see Fig. 17).

For sewing a shirt, a homespun canvas was most often used (see Cutting a shirt), later - purchased fabrics: kumach, satin, silk (see Cutting a shirt with a yoke). On canvas shirts, spacers, finishing of the collar, sleeves and bottom of the shirt were made of kumach, the decoration performed both a decorative function and a symbolic one - as a talisman. The top of the shirt was made on a lining.

Measurements:
Product length - from the middle of the neck, along the back, 20-25 cm above the knee. Neck Volume, Arm Length - from neck to mid-wrist, Hand Volume - measured with a bent thumb.

Open the shirts:

See fig. 18. Fabric - homespun canvas (width 40cm).

Fabric consumption 3.5m.

All details are cut in rectangles. The frame is cut out along the fabric from a single piece of cloth, 2 Lengths of the Product are measured (bent in half). Barrel length = Item Length - Armhole length. The width of the barrel is -1.5 sheets - 40cm + 20cm, for a thin man - 40 cm. The width of the sleeve is 60cm. Sleeve Length = Arm Length - Shoulder Width (for size 48-50, sleeve length 70-72cm). On the sleeve -1.5 panels (40cm + 20cm). Armhole depth - 30cm if the sleeve is without gathers, 25cm + 10cm if with gathers on the shoulder (10cm for gathers, 5cm in front, 5cm in the back). Gussets 15x15 cm or 20x20 cm.

Shirt sewing sequence:
1. Sew the stanchion with the barrels, place the seams on the barrels at the back. Fold the sides, mark the middle. Fold the folds under the armpits (one-sided 0.5-0.7cm). The number of folds should be the same at the front and back. Fasten the folds with stitching and embroidery (small cross or zigzag) along each fold.

2. Determine the middle of the panel. Set aside 1.5-2 cm back and forth, cut out the neckline.

3. Sew two sleeve panels. Seam to the front.

4. Sew the back on the sleeve, the sleeve on the barrel.

5. Sew on a wide spacer (up to 5cm). The seam of the spacer must match the seam of the joint between the stanchion and the barrel.

B. Sew the gusset "into the notch". Sew sleeves and a barrel on it. Sew the corners by hand.

7.Place the end of the sleeve along the entire perimeter in the folds of 0.5- 0.7cm, directed forward. Upholstery with fabric or braid.

8. Trim the neckline and cutout with red tape along the bias tape. The neckline (about 20cm) should be square with a neckline. Decorate the square with embroidery.

9. Process the bottom of the shirt. "Glade" decoration of the shirt. Clasp on the left side. Embroidery in a square on the front (possibly up to the waist). Spacer with kumach, tape along the entire seam of the connection of the stanchion with the barrels. Barrel width 40cm (no seam). Sleeve width 40 cm with a wedge (see Fig. 19). The bottom of the shirt is trimmed with a ribbon or contrasting fabric.

Finishing the "Kerzhak" shirt

Clasp on the right side. Embroidery in a square on the front. The weave spacer on the sleeve can be embroidered. The wedding shirt was decorated with fine lace at the end of the sleeve. The bottom of the sleeve is finished with red cotton or a contrasting fabric, later with a braid. If folds are gathered, then embroidery along the folds. The bottom of the shirt is trimmed with a ribbon or contrasting fabric.

Open shirts with a yoke:
See fig. 20 Fabric - satin (width 60cm). Fabric consumption 3.5m. The yoke is cut along the fabric, length 50cm (bent in half). The width of the barrel is 30cm, if the man is full, then 60cm is possible. Collar
- upright 4-4.5 cm high. Plank 2.5-3 cm wide - cutout trim. Full sleeves with a triangular or trapezoidal wedge (15 cm wide).

Sewing sequence:

1. Sew sleeve panels. Collect one-sided or opposite folds on the shoulders. Place the seam on the sleeve on the front side.

2. Collect the folds on the barrels, so that the barrel is reduced to 5-6 cm. Sew the stavina and the barrel.

3. Sew the yoke on the sleeve, then on the back, so that the seam of the yoke coincides with the seam of the back.

4. Sew the gusset "into the notch". Sew sleeves and a barrel on it. Sew the corners by hand.

5. Lay the end of the sleeve along the entire perimeter in the folds of 0.5- 0.7 cm, directed forward. Upholstery with fabric or braid.

6. Sew on the collar and placket. Make embroidery.

7. Work the bottom of the shirt.

Shirt trim

The yoke can be made with a lining. A frame of contrasting fabric is made on the shoulders, which limits the folds. Frame with embroidery, you can fold it. Embroidery on the collar and placket, you can embroider a square. Embroidery around the perimeter of the yoke, can be trimmed with braid.

One-sided folds can be made at the end of the sleeve, bows can be made. Contrasting fabric or tape trim. Embroidery along the folds of the barrels or on a cloth that is sewn onto the folds. You can arrange a 5x15 cm frame with embroidery along the folds. Trim the bottom with a ribbon or contrasting fabric.

Shirt collar

Gates- the shirt, directly adjacent to the body, was sewn with endless magical precautions, because it had to not only warm, but also drive away the forces of evil, and keep the soul in the body. So, when the collar was cut, the cut-out flap was certainly dragged into the future garment: movement “inward” meant the preservation, accumulation of vitality, “outward” meant expenditure, loss. They tried in every possible way to avoid this last, so as not to bring misfortune to the person.

According to the ancients, it was necessary to somehow "secure" her necessary holes in the ready-made clothes: collar, hem, sleeves. Embroidery, containing all kinds of sacred images and magical symbols, served as a talisman here. The pagan meaning of folk embroidery can be traced very well from the oldest samples to quite modern works; it is not for nothing that scientists consider embroidery an important source in the study of ancient religion. This topic is truly immense, a huge number of scientific works are devoted to it. Slavic shirts did not have turn-down collars. Sometimes it is possible to restore something similar to the modern "rack". Most often, the incision at the collar was made straight - in the middle of the chest, but there was also an oblique, right or left.

The collar was buttoned up. Buttons in archaeological finds are dominated by bronze and copper, but researchers believe that the metal is simply better preserved in the ground. In life, for sure, we often met those made from simple improvised materials - bone and wood.

It is easy to guess that the collar was a particularly "magically important" piece of clothing - after all, it was through it that the soul flew out in case of death. Wishing to prevent this as much as possible, the gate was so abundantly equipped with protective embroidery (sometimes containing - of course, for those who were able to afford it - gold embroidery, pearls and precious stones) that over time it turned into a separate "shoulder" part clothes - "necklace" ("that which is worn around the throat") or "shoulder". It was sewn on, fastened or even put on separately. In the Jewelry section, it is told in more detail about the protective meaning of jewelry and why, with a small amount of wealth, people tried to acquire gold and noble stones and did not hide them in a chest, but placed them on clothes and on their own bodies.

Here I will report on the work I have done. At the same time, you can calculate how much time it will take to sew a man's shirt. (and of course learn from mistakes)
She began to sew a shirt according to this pattern. For this I needed:
- 2 meters of white flax
- 0.5 meters of red flax. Will go to the gussets. In fact, very little material is needed - 16x32 - given the bends of 1 cm.

For embroidery: "floss" in red. A pattern is selected and embroidered with satin stitch (better counted), a vestibule or a cross. Combined techniques also take place.

The pattern is very simple, 95% of all the work is embroidery, but it is not that difficult either. Kyrka, I am addressing you.
To save material, I suggest this arrangement of panels.

Diagram of the cut of a man's shirt

Then, scary, of course, but everything needs to be cut out.
And now about embroidery. Sleeves can be safely embroidered, and everything else only after the shirt has already been sewn. (in order not to disturb the picture).
my embroidery on the sleeve:

The wrong side of the embroidery should also be more or less beautiful.
No knots can be made!
It is believed that I make knots for damage. (I was told so) And we do not want to spoil anyone, especially since it is even more convenient without knots.
We tuck all the threads into the pattern itself from the seamy side. He will not be dismissed, there is nothing to be afraid of.

Men's wedding shirt, pattern

Today there are a lot of children's events that are celebrated in the Slavic style. Shrovetide, New Year, farewell to autumn and many others. Children should be dressed in national costumes. If your son is invited to such a party, he will need to dress in traditional clothing, including a special shirt. It is very simple to sew a blouse for a boy with your own hands.

Kosovorotka is a piece of clothing that was worn both on weekdays and on holidays in Russia. It got its name because of the peculiar location of the collar - on the side of the neckline. Such an incision was invented so that the pectoral cross does not fall out during work. The shirt was not tucked into trousers, but belted in a special way. Such shirts were sewn from satin, silk or linen. The edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt were embroidered with woven patterns. Thanks to the photo guide below, you can easily create this element of Russian folk clothing.

We sew an interesting blouse for a boy with our own hands

Necessary materials:

• fabric: satin, linen or cotton;
• decorative braid;
• a skein of thread to attach the ribbon;
• Velcro fastener;
• sewing supplies: chalk, tailor's scissors, ruler and pins.

Work technique:

1. Build a pattern based on the size of the child. The scheme for the shirt is very simple, it will be understandable even for a beginner. This shirt has no shoulder seams. As a result, you will have a rectangle with a neck in the center.

1. Cut the fabric, leaving allowances for seams, as well as hem of sleeves and shirt hem. An auxiliary part is a set-in bar, cut out separately.

1. Stitch the gusset, the special insert in the armpits, to the sleeve. Then, bait the sleeve onto the main piece of fabric. Machine-stitch both sleeves.

1. Sew the side seams of the shirt on a typewriter and overlock them so that the fabric does not crumble.
2. Fold up the sleeves and bottom of the shirt, iron and sew.

1. Grind the neckline using the braid: first sew on the stand-up collar, and then apply the braid and sew.

1. Attach Velcro to the inside of the collar.
2. Sew on the edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt with a braid.

If you wish, you can embroider Slavic amulets on your clothes with a cross.

It is interesting:

• festive blouses were most often made of white fabric;
• the shirt is always belted, since the belt was an obligatory item in the men's wardrobe;
• before starting work, it is best to soak the fabric in hot water, then dry it and steam it with an iron. In this case, it will shrink.

Belt.

Men girded in different ways: just below the chest, at the waist, below the waist. The belt was wrapped around the body twice. The knot was located in front or on the side and hung 40 cm. You can make it yourself from woolen or cotton yarn and decorate with tassels.

Weaving the belt using the pulling method.

In order to weave such an ornament, you will need floss threads. You can use different shades, then the garment will turn out to be colorful. The length of the finished product will be half the length of the threads.

1. Fold each strand in half to make 5 stitches.
2. Gather the loose ends of the yarn into a bun and secure them to a doorknob or nail at chest level at a slight slope.
3. Put the loops on the fingers: three of them on the index, middle and ring fingers of the left hand, the other two on the index and middle fingers of the right. We begin to work with the ring finger of the right hand.
4. Thread the working finger into the loops on the left hand, pick up the loop from the index finger from the bottom up and pull it through the loops towards you. Put the loop on the ring finger of your right hand.
5. Throw the remaining loops over the index and middle fingers, and work with the released ring finger of the left hand.
6. Spread your arms to the sides and nail the first row of the belt to its base.
7. With the working finger of the left hand, thread through the loops to the index finger of the right. Pick up the far loop and pull it towards you so that it is on the ring finger of your right hand.
8. Pull the remaining loops over the index and middle fingers of your right hand, freeing your ring finger to work. Nail the resulting row again.
9. Repeat this order until the thread comes to an end. When finished, tie the belt with any knot and decorate the edges with tassels.

With the help of this simple guide, you will weave an original garment decoration that will suit not only national costumes, but also everyday things.

Related videos

Additional ideas can be gleaned from several master class videos posted below.

Today there are a lot of children's events that are celebrated in the Slavic style. Shrovetide, New Year, farewell to autumn and many others. Children should be dressed in national costumes. If your son is invited to such a party, he will need to dress in traditional clothing, including a special shirt. It is very simple to sew a blouse for a boy with your own hands.

Kosovorotka is a piece of clothing that was worn both on weekdays and on holidays in Russia. It got its name because of the peculiar location of the collar - on the side of the neckline. Such an incision was invented so that the pectoral cross does not fall out during work. The shirt was not tucked into trousers, but belted in a special way. Such shirts were sewn from satin, silk or linen. The edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt were embroidered with woven patterns. Thanks to the photo guide below, you can easily create this element of Russian folk clothing.

We sew an interesting blouse for a boy with our own hands

Necessary materials:

• fabric: satin, linen or cotton;
• decorative braid;
• a skein of thread to attach the ribbon;
• Velcro fastener;
• sewing supplies: chalk, tailor's scissors, ruler and pins.

Work technique:

1. Build a pattern based on the size of the child. The scheme for the shirt is very simple, it will be understandable even for a beginner. This shirt has no shoulder seams. As a result, you will have a rectangle with a neck in the center.

1. Cut the fabric, leaving allowances for seams, as well as hem of sleeves and shirt hem. An auxiliary part is a set-in bar, cut out separately.

1. Stitch the gusset, the special insert in the armpits, to the sleeve. Then, bait the sleeve onto the main piece of fabric. Machine-stitch both sleeves.

1. Sew the side seams of the shirt on a typewriter and overlock them so that the fabric does not crumble.
2. Fold up the sleeves and bottom of the shirt, iron and sew.

1. Grind the neckline using the braid: first sew on the stand-up collar, and then apply the braid and sew.

1. Attach Velcro to the inside of the collar.
2. Sew on the edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt with a braid.

If you wish, you can embroider Slavic amulets on your clothes with a cross.

It is interesting:

• festive blouses were most often made of white fabric;
• the shirt is always belted, since the belt was an obligatory item in the men's wardrobe;
• before starting work, it is best to soak the fabric in hot water, then dry it and steam it with an iron. In this case, it will shrink.

Belt.

Men girded in different ways: just below the chest, at the waist, below the waist. The belt was wrapped around the body twice. The knot was located in front or on the side and hung 40 cm. You can make it yourself from woolen or cotton yarn and decorate with tassels.

Weaving the belt using the pulling method.

In order to weave such an ornament, you will need floss threads. You can use different shades, then the garment will turn out to be colorful. The length of the finished product will be half the length of the threads.

1. Fold each strand in half to make 5 stitches.
2. Gather the loose ends of the yarn into a bun and secure them to a doorknob or nail at chest level at a slight slope.
3. Put the loops on the fingers: three of them on the index, middle and ring fingers of the left hand, the other two on the index and middle fingers of the right. We begin to work with the ring finger of the right hand.
4. Thread the working finger into the loops on the left hand, pick up the loop from the index finger from the bottom up and pull it through the loops towards you. Put the loop on the ring finger of your right hand.
5. Throw the remaining loops over the index and middle fingers, and work with the released ring finger of the left hand.
6. Spread your arms to the sides and nail the first row of the belt to its base.
7. With the working finger of the left hand, thread through the loops to the index finger of the right. Pick up the far loop and pull it towards you so that it is on the ring finger of your right hand.
8. Pull the remaining loops over the index and middle fingers of your right hand, freeing your ring finger to work. Nail the resulting row again.
9. Repeat this order until the thread comes to an end. When finished, tie the belt with any knot and decorate the edges with tassels.

With the help of this simple guide, you will weave an original garment decoration that will suit not only national costumes, but also everyday things.

Related videos

Additional ideas can be gleaned from several master class videos posted below.

Friends, a new detailed article with a photo to help many people who take their first steps in sewing Russian folk traditional clothes with their own hands and, in particular, a Russian folk men's shirt

The article was written based on the materials of the group's master class = Revival of native traditions = Voronezh = on the "Vkontakte" network
Thanks to Natalia Kolesnikova and Anna Bereznyakova!

For sewing a shirt, you will need about two linear meters of linen fabric, it is highly desirable to be clean and free of impurities. The width of the canvas can be either 1.4 meters or 1.5 and 1.6 meters - whatever you find.
A sewing machine with a set of threads, good scissors, chalk or pencil, pins.

It is advisable to soak the fabric in hot water so that it shrinks. Then dry and iron. Spread the fabric lengthwise on a flat surface.

It is necessary to measure (after measuring the beloved man) and make parts.

For example, with an increase of 1.80, you can safely cut off all 2 meters (along the length of the fabric), and the width of the shirt can be measured - simply by attaching to the fabric that thing (sweater, shirt) that he wears and in which he is comfortable. Add 2 centimeters to the seams and you can cut.

Select the braid (inlay, bindweed), contrasting fabric in advance and attach it to the fabric.

In total, you get: one stanin (long rectangle), two sleeves (about 63-65 centimeters long (the excess will go into the hem), and the standard width is 42 + 2 centimeters at the seams (then the sleeve is folded in half and sewn, but that later). And two gussets 12x12 centimeters.

We fold the stanin lengthwise, and then along the width. Precisely converging corners and shoulder top. Our task is to determine the center at the top and cut the neck evenly.

In the photo, the fabric is folded in four (in length, then in width). We measure and cut. At first, you can roughly draw a rounded corner.

We cut off the neckline, immediately drag it inside through the resulting slot and put it aside - according to tradition, to save energy in the shirt.

Just like in the photo.

Next, we draw a neckline deeper (this is a cutout in the front) and carefully and evenly cut off one fabric (not two or four). We fold it over and cut it symmetrically. Those. in the front, the cutout is deeper and more comfortable than in the back. Even if it is not a large hole for now, the head should not go through it, since an incision will still be made for this.

The neckline is ready. If you are going to make a stand-up collar, then the neckline should be much smaller, almost along the neck.

We measure the neckline with a centimeter tape in order to cut the bias tape (you can buy it, but I don't like the purchased one because it is too narrow).

We cut out an oblique inlay. it is possible on a contrasting fabric, like mine. we place a meter or a ruler obliquely (approximately at an angle of 45 degrees) and outline the length of the neck. And it will be 5-6 centimeters wide.

Here's what we got. Bias binding. A pair of gussets and edging (approximately 15x13 centimeters)

We process the edges of all details, except for the neck and bias tape. It's good with an overlock, but you can also use a simple zigzag, as in the photo.

We find the center of her (edging) (it is important that it coincides with the center of the shirt). By the way, the cutout can also be on the side, for this you need to move the edging to the right. However, in this example, the cutout is centered.

On the sides we draw two lines at a distance of about 1 centimeter.

Stitch exactly along the drawn side lines. We remind you - all this is on the front side of the shirt! And together with the lower fabric of the stanin, we make a cut in the center of the facing, as deep as it is necessary to make the depth of the cut.

Before reaching the edge of the stitched line 1 centimeter, we stop and make side cuts right into the very corners. It is very important to cut through to the very, very corner (BUT! DO NOT CUT THREAD). Then we turn it inside out and stitch it on the front side.

Now, it's just about time to sew the braid, if there is one, so that the ends of it can be “hidden” under the inlay, which we will now attach.

Attach the bias tape to the edge of the neckline from the front (leaving 2 centimeters of the edge) and pin it with pins. When you pin it, pull it tight, this is done so that the collar has a shape.

Sew on. It will look something like this. Please note that on both sides the stitch width is the same (about 1 centimeter or "per foot width")

We fold the bias tape inward twice (to the wrong side) so that it covers the first seam and sew it very carefully from the face, trying to get into the channel (i.e., into the joint). With this seam, we must secure the completely bias tape already folded.

Thus we reach the end. We check if our two edges coincide in width.

We also check whether we have "captured" from the inside out - we have stitched the tucked-in inlay. If not everywhere, then we hem, if necessary, we unstitch and sew again.

We cut the edges to 1.5 centimeters and tuck inward, it is convenient to do this with scissors, as in the picture. later we sew a button and a loop there.

We sew the sleeves, at the same time stitching the gussets to them.

Folding the sleeve in half, we immediately put a gusset in it to the very edge. We connect the edges of the sleeves with a line, but when we reach the gusset placed inside, we slow down the speed of the machine and go to the edge of the fabric (not overstretching the gusset, but stopping at its very edge).

Raise the needle (if necessary, raise the foot), bend one edge of the sleeve and, by mechanical movement of the hand, direct the needle to the edge of the gusset. And from the edge, smoothly round the line straight up. Cut the thread.

We fasten the other, upper edge of the sleeve with the edge of the gusset. We turn the sleeve and already from above we sew it together with the gusset, also rounding to the bottom. The matter is delicate and requires skill. Special attention should be paid to this so that there is no hole under the arm later.

In the same way we "get rid of" and with the second sleeve and gusset!

Here's what you should get.

Now we find the center of the shoulder on the sleeve and on the back. To do this, fold it along its length and mark the upper extreme points-shoulders and pin it there on a pin. The sleeve should be turned out to the right side.

Once we were invited to a birthday party in the Russian style. On this occasion, it was decided to sew a shirt for the boys. You can certainly buy it, but you won't find such things in our small town.

In this master class I show you how to sew a shirt for a 7 year old boy.

As a basis for the pattern, I took a Russian shirt pattern for an adult man. Having measured my child and resized, I got the following scheme:

A shirt according to this pattern is sewn quickly enough, even if you do not sew often and your hand is not full. It took me two evenings, a total of no more than 5 hours.

In order to adjust the pattern to your size, you need the following measurements without seam allowances:

• Shirt width - 38 cm + 2 cm at the seams
• Sleeve length - 34 cm + 8 cm for hem
• Shirt length - 50 cm + 8 cm for hem
• Neck (neck) - 32 cm + 2 cm for seams

Shirt materials:

• Linen fabric - 1 x 1.2 m.
• Braid with a pattern - 1.10 m wide and 1.10 m - narrow braid.
• Linden - 10 cm
• Threads in color.

Russian folk shirt kosovorotka for a boy with his own hands:

The pattern is very simple, so you can cut it directly on the fabric or draw it on the newspaper beforehand. Just be sure to add allowances for the seams and hem of the sleeves and bottom of the shirt.


After cutting we have: One main part, two sleeves and two gussets.


We begin to sew from the sleeves. We attach a gusset to the edge of the sleeve.


Now we apply the sleeve with the stitched gusset to the main part of the shirt and sew it on a typewriter. To prevent the fabric from sliding off the sleeve, we first fix it with needles or bait with a needle-forward seam.

After that, fold the shirt as in the picture and sew the sleeve and gusset.

We also sew the side part of the main part.

Sew the second sleeve in the same way. We process the seams with the help of an overlog or manually.

We fold the edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt.

Ironing and stitching.

The kosovorotka is almost ready. It remains to process the neckline and the fastener on the left side. This is a small but troublesome and delicate job.

The neck of the blouse

Let's start with the clasp. The length of the fastener is 15 cm. To process it, cut out two rectangles. One is 20 x 5.5 cm. The second is wider 20 x 10 cm.


Sew a narrow strip on the left side (left side when looking at the photo).

We wrap it inside the shirt.

Sew a wide strip to the right edge of the cutout (right, if you look at the photo. If you put the shirt on yourself, it will be the left side). Linden will be attached to it.

We fold the wide strip in half and wrap it inside the shirt.


We fix all the details with an outer seam.


Now we will process the neck-rack. Cut out a piece 8 x 40 cm. Fold the edges by 1 cm and iron them with an iron.

Roll it in half and iron it again.


We sew the stand to the neck with a manual seam "needle-forward".


We will sew it on a typewriter. The stand-up collar for a shirt in the Russian style is ready.


At this stage, the blouse looks like this.


It remains to decorate the shirt with a ribbon with a Russian pattern. If there are any irregularities, the tape will hide it.