Nightshirt. Construction of a pattern. Step-by-step instruction. Learning to sew. Nightgown (simple drawing and tailoring technology)

A woman should look attractive at any time of the day. Therefore, you need to have a beautiful attire for going to bed. The models are varied. They differ in style, fabric, style. But first of all, this wardrobe item should be convenient and comfortable. After all, during sleep, nothing should disturb and distract. Showcases are full of all kinds of pajamas, nightgowns, peignoirs, and it's so difficult to make a choice ...

Excursion into history

The nightgown came to the attention of women only in the fifteenth century. Until that time, ladies went to bed in casual clothes or without it at all. The first products were dimensionless, wide, hiding all the charms of the figure, and even cost a lot of money. Only noble ladies could afford such a luxury. But over time, everything changed, tailors began to produce real masterpieces. By the nineteenth century, women had several shirts at once, of different styles, colors and textures.

In the twentieth century, simple cotton sleepwear came into fashion. The classic nightgown has a straight cut, its length is below the knee, the fabric is natural, mostly plain. The neck and chest were trimmed with lace, such a shirt could be considered smart, for special occasions.

Fashion squeaks

Fashion is changing at a breakneck pace. Shirts with bright prints, which have just been at the peak of popularity, are replaced by delicate lace shirts. Leopard night mini-dresses give way to colorful floor-length shirts. There is no point in chasing trends in this case. Choose what is comfortable and easy.

Models of babydoll nightgowns are distinguished by a flirty and attractive style. This shirt fits the chest tightly and expands sharply downwards. The length of such a product is super mini, barely covers the buttocks. An excellent model for any season, pastel colors predominate, creating a gentle look.

Classics of the genre are long shirts. They make any woman a goddess. Such a product can be made of any fabric, playfully flow or resemble a bell. It emphasizes the merits and hides the flaws, gives femininity and mystery.

Cotton

Cotton shirts are a daily item. Their styles are unpretentious, light colors or small patterns predominate. This shirt will not be hot in the heat and chilly in the cold. But for special nights, it is hardly suitable. In such a shirt it will be cozy, at home warm and comfortable!

It is better to get two options for cotton shirts: short, sleeveless for summer and long for cold winter nights. They look simple, lace, guipure is rarely seen on such a thing. These shirts are decorated with unusual seams, folds, assemblies. It is necessary to have such an outfit in your arsenal, because you cannot experience such comfort in a sliding silk shirt. And caring for these products is easy. Feel free to put the shirt in the washing machine, she is not afraid of anything! Such a robe will last more than one year without losing its shape and color.

Temptress

For those who want to always look stunning, there is a silk shirt. The nobility and sophistication of the fabric speak for themselves. And the models are simply amazing: fitted, narrowed, with huge cutouts and cuts, with a smell, lush to the floor and short sexy. Fantasies are where to roam. While in the store, it is very difficult to make a choice. Each of the models is good. Long-legged beauties should opt for cropped narrow shirts. They favorably emphasize the beauty of the legs, the thinness of the waist, give the image of courage and emancipation. Most styles of such products resemble a combination.

The color scheme in most cases is bright, saturated. But there are also delicate shirts of milky, lemon, honey colors. Such tones are conducive to sleep, pacify.

Models of nightgowns made of silk are created for nocturnal predators, seductresses and adventurers. Usually they are decorated with lace, ruffles, rhinestones and embroidery. A girl who prefers a silk shirt to a cotton one certainly cannot be called a gray mouse. Such an outfit gives self-confidence, energizes, a woman feels her attractiveness.

Sport

Actual models of nightgowns of a sports plan. They resemble a straight dress or a long T-shirt. Modern styles boast a hood, drawstring at the waist, bright prints with numbers, letters, logos of sports teams. They are usually made from natural fabrics. Linen is a favorite material for designers of such products. It has antiseptic properties, absorbs moisture,

The main "bearers" of these wonderful and comfortable shirts are young girls up to twenty years old. They prefer comfort, but they do not intend to lag behind fashion either.

Style

In a dream, people spend a third of their lives, so there is no need to save on a nightgown. Go to bed in a good mood and a nice shirt. Then the morning will be good and cheerful. Do not forget about your own unique style, you can stick to it even in your sleep!

1 Selection and description of the appearance of a women's nightgown…………..

2 List of patterns of cut details ……………………………..…………..….

3 Product Assembly Sequence Diagram .............................................................. .

4 Technological sequence of processing women's shirts ......

5 Assembly drawing………………………………………………………...

Conclusion…………………………………………………………………...

Bibliographic list…………………………………………………

Introduction

Clothing plays a huge role in people's daily lives. It is essential because it protects against the adverse external influences of nature. In addition, clothing adorns the body and is a non-verbal language for a person, through which self-expression occurs, the perception of the surrounding reality.




  • drawing up a diagram of the assembly sequence of the product;


1 Selection and description of the appearance of a model of a women's nightgown

The technical sketch of the designed model of a women's nightgown is presented in accordance with Figure 1. 1.

Women's shirt in cotton fabric with a printed design that does not require adjustment, for a woman of a younger age group, semi-adjacent silhouette, mid-knee length.

Product shaping due to waist cuts on the front and back, middle back cut, side cuts, bottom.

Front with cut-off waistline, upper part with lace placket closure, with two darts.

A back with an average seam in the lower part, with a cutting line of a waist.

The armholes of the upper part are finished with a ready-made inlay, passing to the ties.

On the front and back, the neck is processed with stitched turning.

The bottom of the product is with stitched lace, the straps are tied into bows.

2 List of patterns for cutting details

The list of patterns of cut details is presented in table 1.1.

Table 1.1 - List of patterns for the details of the cut of a women's shirt


Detail number

the name of detail

Product sketch

Warp thread direction

Number of details

1

2

3

4

5

1

Upper front

The warp thread is parallel to the cut of the fastener

2

2

Lower front

The warp thread is parallel to the line of symmetry

1

3

Upper back

Parallel to the line of symmetry

1

4

Lower back

Parallel to the middle cut

2

Continuation of table 1.1

3 Product assembly sequence diagram
The sequence diagram for assembling a women's nightgown is presented in accordance with Figure 1.2.

Output

In the course of the training practice, a technical sketch of the designed model of a women's nightgown was made, a description of the appearance of the nightgown was drawn up, a specification for patterns of cut details was developed, as well as a diagram of the assembly sequence of the product, an assembly drawing was developed, and a model of a women's nightgown was made.

The main objectives of the educational practice are:


  • description of the appearance of the model;

  • compiling a list of patterns of cut details;

  • drawing up a diagram of the assembly sequence of the product;

  • development of an assembly drawing;

  • making a model of a women's nightgown.

4 Technological sequence of product assembly
The technological map for the manufacture of women's nightgowns is presented in table 1.2.
Table 1.2 - Technological map for the manufacture of women's shirts


Operation number

Name

Type of work

Discharge

Sketch

Equipment

1

2

3

4

5

6

Harvesting section

Launch Operations


1

Check for cut details

R

5



Auxiliary patterns

2

Number cut details

R

1



Pencil, numerator

3

Lay a gasket with one-sided adhesive coating in a one-piece plank

At

2



2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

4

Mark on the upper part of the front a tuck, a bar, the location of the lace

R

5



Auxiliary patterns

Processing the bottom of the product

5

Stitch right side seam

M

2



6

Overcast right side seam

M



Continuation of table 1.2

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Iron right side seam

At

2

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

8

Cut the bottom

R

1

Scissors

9

Measure and cut lace

R

1

Measuring tape, scissors

10

Sew lace on the bottom of the product

M

2

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

11

Overcast seam attaching lace

M

51-A class. CJSC "Podolsk shveymash", scissors

12

Iron the seam of attaching the lace, ironing the strips on the bar

At

2

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

13

Stitch left side seam

M

2

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

14

Overcast left side seam

M

51-A class. CJSC "Podolsk shveymash", scissors

Continuation of table 1.2

1

2

3

4

5

6

15

Iron left side seam

At

2

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

16

Bartack at the bottom of the left side seam

M

2

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

17

Sew the finishing line along the bottom of the product

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

Finishing the top front and back

18

Stitch darts at the top of the front

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

19

Iron darts

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

20

Overcast fastener sections

51-A class. CJSC "Podolsk shveymash", scissors

Continuation of table 1.2

1

2

3

4

5

6

21

Measure and cut lace

Measuring tape, scissors

22

Sew lace along the marked line

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

23

Iron the seam of attaching the lace, ironing the allowances of the one-piece placket

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

24

Stitch side seams front and back

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

25

Overcast side seams front and back

51-A class. CJSC "Podolsk shveymash", scissors

26

Iron side seams front and back

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

27

Stitch the side seams of the facing front and back

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

28

Iron the side seams

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

Continuation of table 1.2

1

2

3

4

5

6

29

Overcast the inner edge of the facing

51-A class. CJSC "Podolsk shveymash", scissors

30

Stitch the ends of the facing to the fastener allowances

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

31

Stitch the facing to the front and back along the neckline

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

32

Topstitch the seam of turning on the neckline

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

33

Iron the neck straightening the edging from the product

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

34

Turn the trim inside out

35

Iron the top of the front

36

Stitch over the armholes

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

Continuation of table 1.2

1

2

3

4

5

6

37

Stitch the finished bias trim to the cuts of the armholes

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

38

Go around the seam of attaching an oblique inlay and topstitch, sewing on the straps

Measuring tape, scissors

39

Measure and cut straps

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

40

Sew the finishing stitch along the fastener strips

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

41

Lay the fastener strips on top of each other and fasten the fastener

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

Mounting section

42

Check the conformity of the upper and lower parts of the product along the cut of the waist

Tape measure

Continuation of table 1.2

1

2

3

4

5

6

43

Sew the top and bottom of the product along the cut of the waist

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

44

Overcast waist

51-A class. CJSC "Podolsk shveymash", scissors

45

Iron down the waist

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

46

Turn product right side out

47

Sew the finishing stitch along the seam of the waist

1022-M class. JSC "Orsha", Belarus, scissors

Finishing section

48

Mark the location of the two loops on the fastener

49

Overcast two loops on the bar

CM

2

62761ZP

Czech Republic, scissors


50

Clean the product from industrial waste

Brush, scissors

Continuation of table 1.2

1

2

3

4

5

6

51

Iron the product

2,5Lt, Lelit, atomizer,

52

Sew buttons on the clasp

CM

2



53

Sew on a spare button

CM

2

25 cells CJSC "Podolsk", sewing machine. Scissors

54

Hang a label

55

pack a shirt

5 Assembly drawing
The assembly drawing of a women's nightgown is presented in accordance with Figure 1.3.

Bibliographic list


  1. Gagarina S.V. Educational practice. Teaching aid / S.V. Gagarina, E.E. Rudenko. - Mines: Publishing House YURGUES, 2005. - 19 p.

  2. Educational practice: guidelines / [compiled by S.V. Gagarina, E.E. Rudenko]. - Mines: GOU VPO "YURGUES", 2009. - 21 p.

  3. Designing clothes with CAD elements [Text]: studies for universities / E.B. Koblyakova, G.S. Ivleva, V.E. Romanov [and others]; ed. E.B. Koblyakova. – 4th ed., revised. and additional – M.: Legprombytizdat, 1988. – 408 p.

  4. Koketkin, P.P. Clothing: technology - technique, processes - quality: a Handbook. [Text] / P.P. Koketkin. - M.: Publishing house of MGUDT, 2001. - 560 p.: ill.

In addition to its direct purpose, clothing should bring aesthetic pleasure, even if we are talking about a nightgown.
And in the bedroom you can feel queen, regardless of who is nearby. Even if today you fall asleep alone, what you are wearing should contribute to a good mood, and therefore to excellent health, which in turn nourishes a sense of self-confidence, gives strength and gives inspiration.


Continuing the theme of clothes for the house, let's create a nightgown. The style is simple, and we can achieve the magnificence of appearance through the successful selection of fabric and finishing materials (lace, stitching, braid, contrasting inlay, etc.). Indeed, for this type of clothing, the main thing is to fulfill the requirement of comfort, which is achieved by using natural fabrics and a free cut.


When designing women's underwear, namely nightgowns, allowances for loose fit increase. For example, an increase along the chest line can reach 10 cm or more. Therefore, it is possible to build a new base pattern specifically for nightgowns, taking into account the increased increments. This base can still come in handy for modeling loose-fitting home dressing gowns.


But, there is another option. In our example, we will consider the average version and use dress pattern, and we will achieve freedom in fitting due to assemblies.
If you have not yet built a dress base pattern for yourself, we recommend that you use our step-by-step instructions and do it. You will need this drawing in the future when mastering the modeling of various types and styles of clothing.


We copy on a blank sheet of paper separately the back and shelf.


Since we are building a pattern for a loose-fitting nightgown, we need to align the side lines. To ensure freedom of movement, we will slightly expand the shirt along the bottom line.
Let's start from the back.
To do this, set aside 6 - 10 cm along the line of the bottom of the back from the point H4 to the right and set the point H5. We connect points P and H5 with a straight line.
On the line of the middle of the backrest down from point H, set aside 1 - 2 cm, set point 1 and adjust the line of the bottom of the back, connecting points 1 and H5 with a smooth curve.


We will do the same manipulations with the shelf.
On the line of the bottom of the shelf from the point H3 to the left, set aside 6 - 10 cm and set H6. We connect points P and H6 with a straight line.
We also correct the line of the bottom of the shelf.

Neckline

We expand and deepen the neck of the shelf and back. The configuration of the neckline can be the most diverse. The choice is yours.
In our model, we will expand and deepen the neckline by 2cm.

To do this, set aside 2 cm along the shoulder line and along the middle lines of the shelves and back and draw up a new neck line.

To ensure freedom, let's deepen the armhole a little.

From the point P down the side sections of the shelf and back, set aside 1-2 cm, put points P1 on the back and P2 on the shelf. We make a new armhole line.

At the time of building the coquette, we will transfer the chest tuck to the side line. To do this, we arbitrarily put a point on the side line, in the drawing this is point P3, connect it to the top of the chest tuck (G7) with a straight line and make a cut along this line. We close the chest tuck, opening it to the side line.



Determine the location of the coquette line of the shelf.
You remember that our example is one of many possible options. You proceed from your desires and intentions.
The coquette line can be of different configurations and located at different heights.

From the neck, extending the line of the shoulder of the shelf, set aside 14 cm, set the point K. On the midline from the neck down, set aside 10 cm, set the point K1. Connecting the smooth curve of the points K and K1, we draw up the line of the coquette of the shelf.

At the intersection of the yoke line with the armhole line, we set a control point, denote it with the letter O. When cutting the yoke, we will definitely make a notch on the yoke at this point, thus marking the junction of the yoke with the shelf.



We return the chest tuck to its original position.


Parallel to the middle line of the shelf with an interval of 7 cm, we draw two auxiliary lines, along which we cut and push the shelf apart by the size of the assemblies. In our example, the total increase in assemblies is 10cm. (Two cuts of 5 cm).


Glue paper inserts from below to fix all parts of the shelf.
You can lay out the pattern immediately on the fabric, observing the distance between the parts of the shelf, chalk and cut. Don't forget to add seam allowances.
We draw the upper cut of the shelf with a smooth line.


Back.
back yoke we build in the same way as on the shelf. From the neck, extending the shoulder line of the back, set aside 14cm. Let's not forget to take into account the tuck 2cm, the total is 16cm and put the point K2.
On the midline of the back from the neck down, set aside 12 cm and set the point K3. We connect the points K2 and K3 with a smooth curve, thereby making out the line of the coquette of the back.

At the intersection of the yoke line with the armhole line, we put a control point, denote it by the letter O1. When cutting the yoke, be sure to make a notch on the yoke at this point, thus marking the junction of the yoke with the back.

Cut off the yoke and set aside.


For the formation of assemblies, we expand the back in the same way as the shelf.
Parallel to the middle line of the back, with an interval of 6 cm, we draw two auxiliary lines, along which we cut and push the back to the size of the assemblies. In our example, the total increase in assemblies is 8cm. (Two cuts of 4cm each).


Glue paper inserts from below to fix all parts of the back. Or immediately lay out the pattern on the fabric, observing the distance between the parts of the pattern. Don't forget to add seam allowances.
The upper cut of the backrest will be drawn with a smooth curve.


That, perhaps, is all. The main patterns of the nightgown are ready.


As a finish, you can add a frill or frill along the edge of the yoke and along the bottom of the shirt. With different frill widths, we get different models.
You can add lace, piping, embroidery, etc. Give free rein to your imagination. Create and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

There is a huge variety of styles of nightgowns. We will cover some of them in our next articles.

We are also preparing a separate section on the intricacies of cutting and the features of the technology for processing garments.

In the near future we will continue the theme of home clothes. Follow the news of the site, and you will always be up to date.

Good luck! Valentina Nivina.

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Hello my dear mothers of the Country of Mothers!

Show picture

So, my dear mothers and grandmothers, we will learn how to sew a nightgown for our daughters, granddaughters and for ourselves!

We will need only six measurements (Fig. 1) and to help I will present an auxiliary card "The name of the measurements and how to take them correctly" (Fig. 2)

Fig.1 Table of measurements for a nightgown

Fig. 2 Name of measurements and how to take them correctly

P.S. Girls, everyone will have their own measurements, individual.

Fig. 3 Construction of a drawing, a shoulder product with one-piece sleeves

Now my dears, the easiest calculation begins to build a drawing for our future nightgown:

1) VN \u003d Di \u003d 90 (cm);
2) BB1 \u003d (Pog + Pg): 2 \u003d (35 + 7) : 2 \u003d 21 (cm);
3) HH1 = BB1;
4) BB2 \u003d (Psh: 3) + Psh \u003d (20: 3) + 1 \u003d 7.6 (cm);
5) BB3 = BB2: 3 = 7.6: 3 = 2.5 (cm);
6) BB4 = BB2 + 1 = 8.6 (cm);
7) V1G \u003d (Op: 2) + Pp \u003d 25: 2 + 6 \u003d 18.5 (cm);
8) B1B5 = 6 cm;
9) GG1 = B1B5 = 6 cm;
10) GG2 = GG1 = 6 cm;
11) G4 = G1G2: 2;
12) G3 = from point G4 up 1.5 cm;
13) H2H3 = 1.5 cm;
14) H1H2 = HH1: 2 = 11.5 (cm).

That's the whole calculation is easy and simple, like twice two!

Open nightgowns on fabric

Rice. 4 Open the nightgown on the fabric

My drawing completely lay down on the width of the fabric folded along the shared thread, so I decided that the nightgown would be without shoulder seams. To do this, I folded the fabric in four, i.e., first in two along the transverse thread, then again along the shared thread. I will clearly show the drawing of the structure of the fabric, so that you can understand.

Fig.5 Fabric structure

Cutting and sewing

For sewing shirts with short one-piece sleeves, fabric consumption with a width of 75-80 cm is planned based on the calculation: two shirt lengths plus 5-7 cm.

The pattern is placed on the fabric folded along the front side inward with the middle to its fold and circled. Girls, don't forget about the seam allowances. I fasten the paper pattern with needles to the fabric and immediately cut it out with seam allowances along the side cut, sleeves and bottom of the shirt; I don’t make a seam allowance on the neck, because I process the neck with an oblique trim, or as it is also called oblique turning. If the neckline is trimmed with an undercut, then a seam allowance is needed. Both the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt can be trimmed with bias tape.

Seam allowance: bottom and sleeves - 2-3 cm; side seams - 0.5-0.7 cm; neck - 0.8-1 cm.

girls, very important so that the allowance for the side seam is 0.5-0.7 cm, no more! Otherwise, after you turn the nightgown right side out, the side seam will gather and shrink!

When opening my shirt, I cheated and saved time. I have one drawing for both the front and the back, I didn’t cut out the neck for the front on paper. I immediately put the drawing on the folded fabric, cut out the back neck with allowances for the seams (without gaps in the seams), then laid out the cut shirt as in Fig. 4, marked point B4 with a pencil, connected the marked point with a smooth line to the neckline on the back, only then Cut out the neckline of the front of the shirt. It remains to process the sections and the nightgown is ready!

I talked about the oblique inlay and how to cut it here, so I’ll talk about the undercut facing.

So, for starters, let's clarify the definitions of a sprout and a neck.

Rostock- cutout for the neck from the shoulder sections to the middle of the back.
Neck- cutout for the neck from the shoulder sections to the middle of the front.

Processing of the neck and sprout. On a sheet of paper, the neck and the sprout are circled exactly according to the pattern. From the marked lines lay 3.5-5 cm - the width of the facings and cut out the pattern. The facings cut from the fabric are folded with the front sides inward, swept and grinded in the place of the shoulder cuts with a seam 0.5-0.7 cm wide. The seams are ironed.

The finished facing is placed with the front side on the wrong side of the product so that their middles are aligned. The shoulder seams of the facing are cut off with pins with the shoulder seams of the product. The facing is basted, then attached to the product, the basting is removed. The facing is folded to the front side, sewn with running stitches to form a piping and ironed. The second cut of the facing is folded to the wrong side by 0.5 cm, basted and adjusted to the product.

Girls, I will look forward to your boasts, an album for you, my dears.

Goals: to form ideas about the relationship between technical and artistic modeling: to learn to modify the pattern of the basis of a shoulder product with a one-piece sleeve in accordance with the selected styles of nightgowns.

DURING THE CLASSES

I. Organization of the lesson

Checking students' readiness for the lesson.

Message about the topic and purpose of the lesson.

II. Repetition of the material covered

What did we do in the last lesson?

Name the main lines in the drawing.

What is the difference between a back drawing and a front drawing?

III. Learning new material

Teacher's explanation.

Today in the lesson you will consolidate and expand your knowledge of modeling techniques.
How do you understand what modeling is?
Modeling is the process of creating new models of clothes.

for whom (correspondence of the costume to the internal and external appearance of a person);

for what (correspondence of the costume to a certain situation);

from what (correspondence of the fabric of the chosen model and the image of a woman).

This principle is decisive when choosing any type of clothing.

The task. Examine the drawings and determine the correspondence of the model and fabric to the human figure.

Modeling is divided into artistic and technical.
Artistic modeling is carried out by fashion designers. The artist comes up with a model and reflects his idea in a drawing (sketch). This sketch is accompanied by a detailed description of the model (Fig. 1).

Rice. one

Technical modeling is carried out by designers-technologists who develop new styles of clothing according to the drawings of artists. They study the appearance of the model, the properties of the material from which the model will be sewn, then select the main drawing and apply shaped lines on it.
We will carry out artistic and technical modeling.
In the last lesson, we completed the construction of the basis of the drawing of a shoulder product with a one-piece sleeve. Based on this design, you can create new models of nightgowns (Fig. 2-6).

Rice. 2

Rice. 3

Rice. 4

Rice. five

Rice. 6

What do these models have in common? (One piece sleeve)
- What is the difference? (The shape of the neckline, the length and shape of the bottom of the product, the silhouette)

The main elements of technical modeling:

change in the length of the product (Fig. 3);

change in the shape of the bottom of the product (Fig. 2; Fig. 4);

change in the shape of the neckline (Fig. 3; Fig. 4);

coquette modeling (Fig. 5; 6);

parallel expansion method (Fig. 5);

conical expansion method (Fig. 6).

When modeling, the combination of elements with each other is taken into account, that is, the shape of the neckline, the shape of the bottom of the product, the shape of the collar, pockets, etc.
In order to complete these models, it is necessary to apply shaped lines to the main drawing.

IV. Practical work on the board and in a notebook