Today, every sewing machine comes with a set of feet. And sometimes some are perplexed by their purpose. But if you understand why each of them is needed, then sewing will turn out to be more interesting for you, and some operations will be less routine.

In addition to the usual paws, the following paws can be found in the kit, well, or, if necessary, buy the necessary ones:

Teflon foot

Designed for sewing products made of genuine leather, leatherette and coated fabrics. It does not stick when you sew vinyl, plastic, leather or imitation leather. You can also use the Teflon foot for general sewing or when making buttonholes on plastic or leather fabrics.

Roller foot

Instead of the Teflon foot, you can use the roller foot, which uses torque to move the fabric forward. The foot has a rotating roller that allows you to roll fabric of any structure under it, be it 100% leather, or felt, or velveteen. When sewing with this presser foot, the stitches are of uniform length. With a foot, it is very good to go through any thickenings on the fabric.

Which of these two paws to give preference to, will tell the selected fabric. The roller foot also works well with heavy materials, some types of raincoats and jackets.

Universal zipper foot

You can sew on a zipper with a regular foot designed for straight stitching or zigzag stitching. But qualitatively and neatly, with a line passing next to the "teeth", you can sew a zipper only with the help of a special foot. It is unilateral, bilateral and narrow. The main task is to help the needle to make an even seam at the same distance from the edge of the “lightning” without turning the product.

Hidden zipper foot

But you can sew on a secret zipper only with the help of a "secret foot", which has two furrows on the sole. A regular foot and even a zipper foot will not work for this. The foot has special grooves in which the teeth of the fastener are in a fixed position, which allows you to lay a straight stitch close to the fastener. As a result, a hidden "lightning" is easily, quickly and accurately sewn to the product.

Edge sewing foot

Sometimes it is very difficult to lay a smooth finishing line along the edge of the product. With the edge sewing foot, you can easily do this task.

Blind Hem Foot

Designed for hemming the edges of dresses, trousers that require special care with a blind stitch. The blind stitch foot is suitable for inconspicuous hemming of heavy to medium weight fabrics. Now there is no need to hem the product manually.

Foot for sewing on a cord

You can beautifully decorate the product with a cord using this foot. At the same time, depending on the thickness of the cord, one, two or three cords can be sewn at the same time. The foot has guides that guide the cord along the fabric, and the needle evenly stitches on its surface. The foot has special holes for cords, decorative threads and is designed for decorating products using various decorative stitches.

Foot for sewing on a beaded thread

With this foot, you can quickly and accurately sew beads onto the product and decorate it.

Foot for sewing on braid (elastic bands, sequins)

The foot is used for sewing on ribbons, ribbons, piping and other decorative elements, up to 5 mm wide, and can also be used for sewing on elastic bands. Perfect for decorating clothes with various elements.

Button sewing foot

The button sewing foot holds the button while sewing on.

Buttonhole foot

Buttonholes can be made quickly and accurately only on a sewing machine that comes with a special foot.
The buttonhole on the sewing machine can be sewn in automatic, semi-automatic and manual modes. In order not to control the length of the buttonhole in the foot, you need to install a button and do not forget to push the vertical lever for switching the machine's stroke down to the stop.

Bias edging foot

The piping foot is used to finish the edges of the bias tape in one step. The snail on the foot wraps a strip of fabric and guides it in front of the needle. Can be used for zigzag, decorative stitches or regular straight stitches.

Piercing foot

With the help of this foot, ruffles and flounces are made. The foot is a small double plate with a slot over the entire surface. The material for the assembly is placed under the foot, and the fabric to which the assembly will be attached to is placed in the slot. The foot can perform three functions at once: to assemble, finish the edge and sew the shuttlecock to another fabric.

Pintuck foot

Tucks are often used to decorate clothing and home textiles. The special tuck foot has grooves into which the fabric is pulled when sewing, resulting in a raised fold. Tucks are formed when sewing with a twin needle. There are feet for sewing two, three and five tucks evenly spaced from each other. Before work, you must select the stitch length and put a double needle on the machine. The double needle sews the pintuck on both sides with parallel stitches.

Hemming foot

Despite the fact that the processing of the bottom of the products with a hem seam with a closed cut is a rather simple sewing procedure, it still requires considerable effort. Marking, ironing, temporary hand stitching, etc. and so on. There is a way to get rid of this routine, use a special sewing machine foot - a foot for hemming the edges of products. (Twist foot, Hem foot, Hem foot, Hem foot, Hem foot, Hem foot, Hem foot, Hem foot)

Foot for knitwear

The rubber pad attached to the foot stretches and holds the fabric under the needle, preventing it from sagging and clogging between the teeth of the lower feed dog. And this is the main problem that arises when sewing thin fabrics and knitwear. The knit foot does a great job with it, forming an even stitch without any extra effort.

Overlock foot

The special device of the foot for overcasting includes the presence of an additional pin, with the help of which sewing is carried out along the edge of the overedging fabric. When sewing, the fabric does not shrink or twist. When overcasting with special overlock stitches, the guides of the overlock foot will help you get a straight, regular stitch along the edge of the fabric, and the material will feed smoothly without falling to the side. Without such an overlock foot, overcast the edges with a simple zigzag or some other specialized overlock stitch, be sure to leave a small allowance on the edge, which does not allow the fabric to shrink when overcasting. Then this allowance is trimmed with scissors.

Of course, the modification of the legs depends on the model of the machine for which it is intended, and you need to choose based on this. One and the same foot can differ in color, material (plastic, iron, Teflon, etc.), additional elements (cogs, springs, etc.). When choosing, be sure to read the instructions or consult with the seller, all this will help you in this difficult matter.

Ruffles and assemblies have always been considered an element of femininity, carelessness and coquetry.
Today we offer you to sew a simple knitted dress with ruffles.
The dress is a model of a free straight silhouette without darts, with a lowered sleeve and a semicircular neckline.
The length of this dress is approximately five to six centimeters above the knees, however, you can change the length of the dress to your liking. For a model of this cut, length options both below the knees and to the floor are quite suitable.
To sew a dress with ruffles, you will need 1.2 - 1.3 meters of knitted fabric. The fabric should be elastic, soft and drape well.

1. How to cut a knitted dress with ruffles

To cut a straight knitted dress, you can use the pattern-base of the dress in your size, slightly fitting it to the presented model. The side chest darts on the shelf and back must be closed, and the waist darts should be ignored.
Increase the side seams by 1.5-2 cm per fit.
In order for the dress to turn out with a lowered sleeve, the shoulder line should be extended by 4-5 cm, and then smoothly draw the armhole of the sleeve.
For ruffles, cut out 3 strips 4 cm wide and 80-90 cm long.
For the belt, you will need a strip of fabric 150 cm long and 9 cm wide.
To turn the neckline, you will need three strips of fabric 2.5 cm wide, cut along the oblique, the length of two of them should be equal to the length of the sleeve, and the length of the third strip to the length of the neckline of the dress.

2. Sewing a straight loose dress with ruffles on the chest

Since the ruffles must be sewn onto the shelf before the side and shoulder seams are sewn, we will deal with them first.
We set the necessary mode for processing the edge of the ruffle on the overlock.

Overcast the edges on both sides along the entire length of the ruffle.

To form even and neat assemblies on ruffles, we install a special foot on the sewing machine.

We set the required stitching mode and thread tension.

We lay a line on the ruffles, getting the necessary assemblies on them.

We pierce the prepared ruffles with pins on the shelf of the dress.

Our next task is to sew ruffles on the front of the dress. Set the straight stitch mode, stitch length and desired thread tension.

Ruffled gathers add extra volume. In order to easily sew them to the dress, you can use a special foot for thick and problematic fabrics.

We lay even lines along the ruffles fixed with pins.

Overlock the side and shoulder seams.

With an inlay cut from the remnants of the fabric, we process the neck and sleeves of the dress. A more detailed master class on processing the neck and armholes with inlay can be found in

We do the final processing of the armholes of the sleeves and the neck.

We process the bottom of the dress on an overlock, bend it by 1.5 - 2 cm and hem it on a sewing machine.
We sew the strip intended for the belt of the dress, turn it inside out and iron it.
Dress with ruffles on the chest - done!

Knitwear is incredibly comfortable and practical.Thanks to this, they occupy one of the most honorable places among things in the wardrobe, especially at home.
It's no secret that knitwear is much easier to sew than non-elastic fabrics. Simplified patterns, no darts, minimization of fittings and fittings due to the elasticity of the fabric, simplifies the sewing process and makes it accessible even for beginner dressmakers. The only problem that may be encountered when sewing knitwear is the processing of the edges of the product. If you process the edges with a single straight stitch, they will turn up and look unaesthetic.
Ideally, the edges of jerseys are finished on special sewing machines, and although the double needle only simulates a flat seam, it can be a worthy option in solving the problem of finishing the edge of the created item.

How to choose a twin needle

If you look closely at the markings on a double knitting needle, then you can see two numbers written through a slash on it. For example: 2/90, 3/90 or 4/90 (see photo above). The first number indicates the distance between two needles in millimeters, the second number of the needle. Accordingly, the larger the first number in the needle marking, the wider the distance between the lines.
The second number indicates the thickness of the needle (eg 90 = 0.9 mm), the choice of this parameter will depend on the type and density of the tissue.

How to insert a twin needle into a sewing machine

The double needle is adapted for household sewing machines, inserted into the standard hole of the needle holder and fixed in it like a regular needle.
However, keep in mind that if your sewing machine is designed only for straight stitches, then you will not be able to sew on it with a twin needle. Pay attention to the hole of the needle plate, if it is round, then the machine sews only straight stitches, if it is oblong, then it makes additional types of stitches. However, most zig-zag sewing machines are suitable for twin needle sewing, and more modern ones are even equipped with an additional pin for a second spool.

How to thread a twin needle

Two spools of thread must be inserted into different pins, but they must be guided through one thread guide.

When approaching the base of the needle, the threads are separated and inserted separately into the left and right holes of the needle eyes. The thread is started behind, as when sewing with a regular needle.

Before sewing with the twin needle, you need to set the stitch pattern and stitch length.

A seam imitating a flat seam looks like a regular zigzag stitch from the wrong side.

If your sewing machine has additional decorative stitches, you can experiment and try sewing them with a twin needle.

A hem stitch made with a double needle looks like this.

With the help of a wavy decorative seam, you can decorate the edge of the collar of a jacket or the bottom of a skirt.

A strict combination of triangles is suitable for processing belts and cuffs.

The V-stitch can be used to trim the edge of a collar or blouse sleeve. With this pattern, you can decorate various ruffles and flounces on things.

The diamond pattern will look good on the vertical details of clothing, it can be diversified with beads or sequins.

You can also embroider various details of clothing with a double zigzag.
Using a double needle, you can make gathers and voluminous puffs on fabric.

The fashion for ruffles, flounces and frills in clothes is rooted in the distant Middle Ages. The abundance of these details on dresses emphasized the status, good taste and wealth of their owners.
As the fashion trends of recent years show, flounces and ruffles are popular in our time! Still, it's cute, feminine and very beautiful!
Today we are sewing an elegant summer dress of a straight silhouette with double flounced wings on the shoulders.
For sewing such a dress, you will need 1.1-1.2 meters of stretch-satin fabric and 3 meters of oblique silk trim for processing frills.
Due to the fact that the stretch fabric is quite elastic, you can completely do without a zipper.

Details of the cut of the dress with frills on the shoulders are as follows:
shelf-1 child, backrest-1 child, shuttlecocks-4 children.

1. We close and grind the tucks on the shelf and back of the dress. Since the fabric has a stretch structure, it is better to use a knitting needle to stitch the details of the dress.

2. We sew on the sewing machine, and then we process the side seams on the overlock.

3. We grind and process the shoulder seams.

4. We fix the oblique trim along the outer contour of the shuttlecock.

5. We attach the inlay to the shuttlecock.

6. We process the inner part of the shuttlecock on an overlocker.

7. Alternately we tack and attach the wings-flounces to the dress.

8. We lay a decorative line along the front of the shuttlecock.

Similarly, we make out the rest of the flounces on the dress.

9. We process the neckline and armhole with an inlay made from the rest of the fabric of the dress.

To make an inlay, you will need to cut a strip of fabric 2.5 cm wide. The inlay is cut obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees.

10. We check the length of the dress, we process the bottom of the dress on the overlock.
We bend the bottom 3-3.5 cm inward and sew it on a typewriter.

A charming dress with wings-flounces is ready!Happy summer days and wonderful mood!

The winged dress is the perfect summer dress! Dresses with flounces and ruffles in the area of ​​shoulders and sleeves have not gone out of fashion for several seasons in a row. This dress looks fashionable, it is practical and able to emphasize the youth and carelessness of the image of its owner. The model shown is a straight dress silhouette,
with frilled wings sewn into the seams, coinciding with breast darts and a zipper on the right side of the dress. The dress is designed in a semicirclecut-out neck front and back.
In order to sew a dress with flounced wings on the shoulders, you will need 1.1 m of thick cotton fabric 1.5 m wide, a hidden zipper and 4 meters of slanting silk trim for processing the sleeve and neck.


Lateral part of the shelf - 2 children, centralpart of the shelf - 1 child. (expand),
lateral part of the back - 2 children, the central part of the back - 1 children. (expand), wing sleeves -2 children.

How sew a dress with wings

1. We connect the shoulder seams of the central and lateral parts of the shelf and back, grind them and process them on an overlock.

2. To process a sleeve with an oblique inlay, it is necessary to unfold one of its edges, and by combining the unfolded edge of the inlay with the edge of the sleeve, chop them off with pins.

3. We lay a straight line along the fold line of the inlay.

4. We tuck the free edge of the inlay inward, fasten it and lay a neat line on the front side.

5. We make small notches along the line of stitching the sleeve.

6. We fasten the side and central parts of the dress, inserting the sleeves into the seam. In order to quickly and evenly distribute the sleeve along the length, divide it in half, align the middle of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and connect the details of the front and back from the middle to the bottom.

7. We grind and process the left side seam of the dress.

8. The side seams of the right side of the front and back are processed separately on the overlock.

9. Stitch the zipper into the right side seam of the dress.

10. On the sewing machine, we grind the seam before and after the zipper.

11. We process the neckline with an oblique trim similar to the sleeve.
In order for the edge of the neckline not to bulge, during processing, stretch the inlay a little and fit the edge of the neckline.

12. We process on an overlock, bend it by 3-3.5 cm and hem the bottom of the dress.

Good afternoon, dear needlewomen. Today we will look at the use of feet for sewing machines. If you love to sew, then this workshop is for you. I bought sewing machine feet from a Chinese online store.
The paws are very good, but how do you know how to use them. I started looking for information and realized that this topic is poorly covered. But if you use such devices, you can easily and simply perform various operations. So I decided to figure it out myself, and to help people who are also looking for this information. So, I'll start.

Foot narrow edge lining. The paws can be different by 2 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm. The foot makes it possible to process the edge very evenly and with high quality without basting. This foot is also called a snail. I'll tell you right away it's a decent foot. Cut the edge at the hem with an angle and tuck it into the snail. The fabric wraps itself very cool.
The seam is very neat. The width of the seam depends on the presser foot. Wrapping the fabric by 2 mm by hand is not at all an easy task, but here any fabric, even if it frays a lot, tucks up nicely. True, you need a new one, but you will be patient, and she will be your faithful assistant.

Using the feet for sewing machines - a master class

With this foot, you can sew on various narrow cords by tucking them into the snail from below. Instead of a thread on top, it is better to use a mono thread.

Assembly foot. A much needed paw. With this foot, it is easy and simple to make frills, ruffles. Pay attention to how the fabric should be laid. That fabric, which is collected, lies with the bottom layer, and the top one is tucked into the groove of the foot and will be sewn evenly along the top of the assembly. The assembly is uniform.

Foot for overcasting the edge. I liked this foot because the plate allows you to lead the edge of the fabric along the edge of the needle. We use an overcast seam, an imitation of an overlock.

Foot for sewing on elastic bands, ribbons, ribbons. I can say that the paw is just worthy. Using this foot, it is easy to sew on an elastic band, put it under the plate, and it lies flat and does not jump to the sides. And if you thread thick threads of different colors under the plate and sew, then you will get a beautiful decorative braid. We use mono thread instead of the upper thread. Use a zigzag stitch, or a zigzag stitch.

Foot for sewing on applications. The foot is transparent and the pattern is clearly visible through it, so it is used when it is important to sew accurately along the line. Used when sewing a zigzag stitch. The step distance is small, the line should be tight. For volume and beauty of the line, loosen the upper thread, and then the line will emphasize the beauty of your work.

Blind stitch foot. Everything is easy and simple to use, but I did not really like the quality of the lining, dots are visible on the front side. There is a screw on the foot, with its help we adjust the spade on the lining, but all the same, I still have traces and I think I won’t hem it like that.

Darning foot. This foot is designed for darning. Lower the teeth for free movement of the fabric. Comfortable.

Foot for sewing on buttons. Set up a zigzag stitch. Select a stitch height equal to the distance between the buttonholes. Simple and fast.

Foot for sewing on zippers. The foot has two holders left and right - this makes it possible to live the zipper both on the left and on the right, you don’t need to control anything, the foot rests against the zipper and the line lies very evenly, sewing zippers in this way, the fabric will never fall into the zipper, the zipper opens easily . I've been using this foot for a long time and I love it.

Foot for sewing on a hidden zipper. A wonderful foot, it is like an iron, there is a notch on the bottom right to the width of the zipper itself. I also use this foot for sewing on cords, it lies in a recess and is easy to sew on.

Use of feet for sewing machines. Photo

Foot for lining fabric. How I regret not using this foot. The foot makes it possible to run the stitch evenly, the plate rests against the fabric and the stitch lies evenly, and there is a screw on the foot, and this makes it possible to shift the stitch, believe me, I sew like a pro and will not sew as perfectly as with this foot. If you flash a line, and then move the screw, you can lay a second line next to it. So great.

Solyanikova Tatyana Viktorovna

http://masterclassy.ru/shite/9162-use-lap...-klass-s-poshagovymi-foto.html

Sewing machine feet

June 14, 2013 - Irina Aslanova

Today everyone knows what a sewing machine is. But not many people know about the sewing machine feet and how many types of them exist now. Nevertheless, the paws not only expand the capabilities of the machine, but also facilitate the implementation of many processes, and most importantly, make them of high quality. By paying due attention to this article, you will learn a lot of new things, and using the feet in practice, you will get great pleasure when sewing a variety of products.

If you bought a sewing machine, you will immediately see the adapter (mechanism for attaching legs) "AU-100" and the "ziz-zag" foot - "AU-107". In addition, as a rule, there is additionally a foot for zippers "AU-101" and for loops "AU-116".

(Allows you to quickly change the legs, which is very convenient, and speeds up the process)

(Standard foot for operations on

zigzag basis)

(Needed for lightning.

Can be located on either side of the needle)

(Great help when making buttonholes. Convenient when working on slats and collars)

Many machines also include Blindhem Foot AU-108, Quilting Foot AU-115 and Button Foot AU-105.

(Use for operations that need more careful execution. For example: blind stitches, etc.)

(Use for straight parallel stitches that run at the same distance).

(Use for buttons, fasteners, hooks)

The instructions for the machine always contain descriptions of the work on all of the above paws.

Today's home sewing equipment market can offer 40 or more types of presser feet for different functions. Paws are divided into semantic groups:

Run most workflows

Sewing decorative stitches

Performing work with fabrics of increased complexity.

Presser foot sets

Basic workflows:

There are many paws on the market that can sew in hidden zippers that exist in both metal and plastic.

(Stitching in a hidden zipper)

Due to the fact that there is a special groove at the base of the foot, sewing in a “hidden” zipper is done almost in the blink of an eye.

To make good straight stitches on delicate fabrics, you need to use a straight stitch foot."AU-112"

When processing edges, you need to take a hem for hem 2mm "AU-111".

For thicker fabrics, you can take a set of hemming feet with different widths (6 mm, 16 mm, 22 mm) "AU-121."

In the absence of a screwdriver, you definitely need an “overlock” foot “AU-109”.

This foot has a stopper that, when used, does not tighten the edge of the fabric. If the fabric needs additional processing of a part of the cut, then you can use the foot with a knife on the side for processing the edge "AU-125",

Decorative work:

Edging into products is a complex operation, but with a special foot, it is greatly simplified.

In a matter of minutes, you can sew bias binding with one stitch using the AU-117 piping foot or the foot that has the AU-114 ruler.

Very interesting is the device that lays the folds "AU-122". With it, you have the opportunity to sew a decorative part to the product in one operation.

If you want to give your product a more individual look, then use different types of decorative finishes. For this purpose, you can use, for example, the AU-130 beading foot,

foot for decorative cords AU-106 or braid AU-131,

Among those who perform decorative operations, be sure to mention the embossed tuck foot (when used together with a twin needle) AU-127, the appliqué foot AU-110 and the shirring foot AU-128