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How to sew a whole collar. High Collar Rack Open-Lifted with Lifts Building Pattern

The process of making dresses, blouse, jacket or coat with a collar-rack, carved in one piece with a back and shelves, is relatively comparative and requires certain skills in the sewing.

The fact is that the creation of a beautiful shape of the one-piece rack is difficult to achieve only constructive means. It is desirable additional molding with suchness and deception. But far from all tissues with an admixture of synthetic fibers, widely distributed at present, can be molded by WTO.

Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to check whether the cloth selected for sewing is molded using WTO (wet-thermal processing).

If the selected tissue is not amenable to molding the WTO, then the collar should be designed on the back drawing and shelf with an extended neck. Excess the width of the neck, formed as a result of the construction, is closed in the mouth of the neck.

Building an all-circular collar-rack on an extended neck

Cheerful shelves temporarily translate to the waist line, the shoulder revealing backs - to the armor.

For a small solid-crocated rack, expand the neck of the shelf and the back along the shoulder line by 1.5 cm and deepen the neck of the back of the midline by 1 cm, the neck of the shelf is 1.5 cm. Draw a new throat line. On the back, the line of the neck is drawn at right angles to the middle line of the back.

Drawing patterns shelf with a single-circular stand

Hold the auxiliary line through the extreme points of the new shelf.

From the top of the new neck, the shelf draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line and postpone the height of the rack, for example, 2,5 cm (point C on Fig. 2a).

Conduct a line of the upper cut collar-racks according to the model connecting the point with the side of the board. At point C should be formed a straight angle. The transition from the side cut of the collar to the shoulder slice of the shelf to arrange a smooth line (Fig. 2b).

Drawing Patterns Backless with Solid Rack

Hold the auxiliary line through the extreme points of the new neck of the back.

From the top of the new neck, the backrest is perpendicular to the auxiliary line and postpone the height of 2.5 cm (point C1 in Figure 3).

Extend the middle line of the back and postpone the height of the rack 2,5 cm + 0.5 cm \u003d 3.0 cm (C2 point in Fig.3).

Conduct a line of the upper cut collar-stand in accordance with the model, connecting the C1 point with a point C2. At the C2 point, a straight angle must be formed. The transition from the side cutting of the collar to the shoulder slice of the back to arrange a smooth line.

Find the middle of the top cut of the backrest collar, draw the cut line until the end of the revealing of the blades, cut the pattern along this line (Fig. 3b).

Close the outlet in the armhop, the outlet will open to the middle of the backrest collar (Figure 3B).

After translating the curtain to the top cut line, the back of the back should be added to 0.5 cm for each side of the outlet, this will additionally extend the top cutting line on the back (Fig. 3B). To shorten the wrapper on the bulk of the blades to 9-10 cm from the neckline of the back.

As a result, it should be molded as in Figure 3.

Is it possible to do without pulling? It is possible and without sweep, but then the collar will lag behind the neck from behind. If you give you this option, please do without falling out. But consider if the figure has a stuff or fat deposits in the area of \u200b\u200bthe 7th cervical vertebra, the backlog of the collar from the neck can be very significant.

In this article, I told how to build a single-circuit rack collar for jacket, blouses or dresses with a fastener. But most often this collar is used in the bolero, which not only do not have clasp, but do not even smell.

For such a bolero, it is simply necessary to carry out a line of the top cutting of the collar and the side of the side on the shelf, something like something in the figure below.

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The collar is a very important and expressive detail in the design of clothing. It not only gives the product a finished look, but also visually affects the outlines of the face and chin, the shape and length of the neck. The collar must comply with Fashion requirements. Form and proportions of clothing.

Collars are very diverse in shape. They are usually from two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks, between which the inflection line passes. According to the method of compounding with a neckline for the neck and the principle of building a drawing, collars are divided into two types: the inserted into the neckline for the neck and out along with the main part, most often with the front (all-circular). In form they are standing (the height of the rack is 3.5-4.5 cm), stand-defined (the height of the rack 2.5-3.5 cm), the height (the height of the rack is about 2 cm), the plates (rack height is about 0, 5 cm). Collars are also distinguished by departure width, which can vary from 4 to 24 cm.

When building a drawing, you need to keep in mind that the straight line of the sweeping, the higher the collar stand will be. Under each type of person, you can pick up your collar form. All fashion fluctuations are usually accompanied by a change in the forms and types of collars, which are characterized by a large variety. The main factors affecting the design of the collar are:

-method for connecting a collar with a throat(vtachny, whole-circuit, combined);

-neckline shape; neck degree(tightly adjacent, flat-lying, lagging on the neck);

-product clasp type(deaf, open).

When building the patterns of any collars, the basic value of the flow line in the neck and the height of the rack are basic. The form of the collar deposit may be the most diverse and depends on the author's model and fantasy.

Construction of the rack, its size, the configuration of the neckline is determined by the shape of the collar, the degree of adjustment. At the maximum height of the rack and direct or convex flushing line in the neck, the collar tightly fits the neck. With a decrease in the height of the rack and a concave flow line, the collar lies more hollow. In the absence of a rack, the flushing line coincides with the neck in shape and the collar becomes a flat. Collars, as a rule, consist of two parts: the upper collar and the bottom (heteroader).

By the method of building collars can be divided into three groups:

Vtachny to products with zipper (or closed neck);

Open and vtachnaya to products with an open clasp;

Facial and all-circular flat and fantasy.

Inch collars to a closed neck.

Patterns of inventory collars to the neck with a deaf zip are built separately from the pattern of the bodice and the neck of the product. Depending on the configuration of the damping line, the collars can be: a rack; Standing-postponed; half-way; apache; Flazer

Standing-postponed, collars have a lot of varieties and are characterized by the presence of a rack of different heights on the pumping section in the neck of the back and the convergent to its ends. On the plot corresponding to the neck of the back and the upper third of the neck of the shelf, it is straight or slightly concave, and on the segment of the sweeping into the rest of the neck has a convex form. The magnitude of the bent (height along the line of the middle of the collar) ranges from 1.5 to 4.5 cm. The shape and size of the flying part of the collar and its ends is determined by the model.

1. Sold down the collar to the neck with a fastener to the top.


BUT, whose parties are directed to the right (by

horizontal) and up.

Middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Packing line. From the point BUT on the horizontal side of the angle, the segment is laying, equal to the measurement of the neck of the neck plus 0.5 cm, - the length of the collar and put the point BUT 1

A., \u003d Pos + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the transfer after the product). From the point BUT on the line of the middle postpone 2 - 4 cm and put a point but:

Aa \u003d 2- 4 cm

Points but and BUT 1 BUT 1 and II are carried out down perpendicular on which 0.2 cm. Points BUT 1, 0.2 cm, ii, 0.5 cm and butconnect a smooth curve.

Sealing cut. From the point but up the line of the middle is postponing 8 - 10 cm - the width of the collar behind. The same postponed on the perpendicular, restored up from the point BUT, on cut a. one ; put a point accordingly INand IN 1 .

aB \u003d A. 1 IN 1 = 8-10 cm

Points IN and IN 1 connect the auxiliary direct, which is continued to be right on 3 -6 cm (the magnitude of the angle).

From the middle of the cut BB 1 restore the perpendicular, on which 1 is 1.5 cm. Smooth curve leaving point IN at right angles to the segment AB connect the points IN, 1-1.5 cm and 3-6 cm. Points BUT 1 and 3-6 cm are connected to a ruler.

2. Diller collar to the neck with a fastener to the top.


Build a straight corner with a vertex BUT,

Middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Packing line. From the point BUT by horizontal side of the angle, a segment is laying, equal to the measure of the semi-cup of the neck, – the length of the folding line of the collar, and put the point BUT 1 :

AA 1, \u003d pp \u003d 18 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured by neck cutout from the middle of the back to the middle of the transfer after the product).

From the point BUT on the line of the middle postpone 5-7 cm and put a point but:

Aa \u003d 5-7 cm

Points but and BUT 1 connect the auxiliary direct, which is then divided into 3 parts. Points of division are indicated by I and II. From point i, the perpendicular is restored and the 0.7 cm is delayed on it. From the middle of the segment between the dots BUT 1, and II are carried out down perpendicular, on which 0.4 cm. Points but, 0.7 cm, II, 0.4 cm and BUT 1 connect a smooth curve.

Sealing cut. From the point but up the line of the middle is postponed 8-10 cm - the width of the collar behind. The same postponed on the perpendicular, restored up from the point BUT 1 to direct aA 1 . Put a point accordingly IN and IN 1 .

aU=BUT 1 IN 1 \u003d 8-10 cm

Points INand IN 1 combine the auxiliary direct, which is continued to be right on 2-4 cm (the magnitude of the angle). From the middle of the cut BB 1 restore the perpendicular, on which 2-2.5 cm is lowered. Smooth curve leaving point IN at right angles to the segment AB connect the points IN, 2-2.5 cm and 2-4 cm. Points 2-4 cm and BUT 1 connect for a ruler.

3. Automobile with an all-circuit rack.


Build a straight corner with a vertex BUT, the parties of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

Middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Packing line. From the point BUT along the horizontal side of the angle, a segment is laying, equal to the measurement of the neck of the neck plus 0.5 cm, - the length of the flow line of the collar and put the point BUT 1:

AA 1 \u003d POS + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

From the point BUT 1 to the right horizontally postpone 2-2.5 cm - allowance for midfoot and put a point BUT 2 :

AA 2 \u003d 2-2.5 cm

From the point BUT postpone the middle line 2-4 cm and put a point but:

AA= 2-4 cm

Points but and BUT 1 connect the auxiliary direct, which is then divided into 3 parts. Points of division are indicated by I and II. From point I, the perpendicular is restored and 0.5 cm is placed on it. From the middle of the segment between points BUT 1 and II are carried out down perpendicular, on which 0.2 cm is delayed. The edge of the midfoot raise from the point BUT 2 by 0.3-0.5 cm. Points 0.3-0.5 cm, BUT 1 , 0.2 cm, II, 0.5 cm and but connect a smooth curve.

Rack. From the point BUT 1 , and BUT 2 up verticals are layered by 2.5-3.5 cm - the height of the rack and put the point respectively but 1 and but 2 :

A 1. but 1 \u003d a 2 but 2 \u003d 2.5-3.5 cm

The protrusion of the rack can be issued a rounded curve connecting the point but 1 and 0.3-0.5 cm.

Sealing cut. From the point but up the line of the middle postpone 7-9 cm - the width of the collar behind and put a point IN:

aU \u003d 7-9 cm

From the point IN BUT 1 , denote the letter IN 1 . Line BB 1 continue to be right on 1-4 cm and put a point IN 2 .

IN 1 IN 2 = 1-4 cm

Point IN 2 but 1 ; the line continues up and on it from the point but 1 7-15 cm are lowered - the length of the angle; put point in:

BUT 1 in \u003d.7-15 cm

Section BB 1 divide on 3 parts and the right division point connects a smooth curve with a point in.

4. Automatic resistant.


Build a straight corner with a vertex BUTwhose parties are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

Middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Packing line rack in the neck. From the point BUT to the right postpone the segment equal to the measurement of the neck of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put the point BUT 1:

AA 1 \u003d POS + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

From the point BUT 1 restore the perpendicular, on which 2-4 cm lay down and put a point BUT 2 :

BUT 1 BUT 2 = 2-4 cm

Point BUT connect for a ruler with a point BUT 2 , the line continues to be right at 2-2.5 cm (allowance for midfoot) and put a point BUT 3 ;

BUT 2 BUT 3 \u003d 2-2.5 cm

Line AA 2 divide in half. From the fission point, the perpendicular is restored, on which 1 cm. The edge of the midfoot will be raised from the point BUT 3 0.5 cm. Points 0.5 cm, BUT 2, 1 cm and BUTconnect a smooth curve.

Upper cutting rack. From the point BUTpostpone from the line of the middle of 3-4 cm-height of the rack and put a point but:

Aa \u003d3-4 cm

From the point BUT 2 and BUT 3, restore the perpendicular to the segment AA 3, on which 2.5-3 cm are laid, and put a point accordingly but 1 I. but 2 .

BUT 2 but 1 =BUT 3 but 2 \u003d 2.5-3 cm

Points butand but 1 Connect auxiliary straight. From its middle is restored down perpendicular, on which 1 cm. Points but, 1 cm and but 1 connect the smooth curve. The protrusion of the rack can be issued by a rounded line connecting but and 0.5 cm.

Turning line collar in a rack designed with the same bend as the top bottom of the rack. Build it as follows. From the point but 1 is carried out to the left horizontal line, which is the axis of symmetry. Crossing it with the line of the middle indicate the letter in. From the point in up the middle line lay the cut, equal aB and put a point in 1 :

bB 1 \u003d AB

Point in 1 connect auxiliary straight with a point but 1 . Section but 1 in 1 they divide in half and from the division point is restored upwards, on which 1 cm. Points in 1, , 1 cm I. but 1 Connect a smooth curve.

Sealing cut. From the point in 1 Up the line of the middle postpone 4-5 cm - the width of the departure and put the point in 2 :

in 1 in 2 = 4-5 cm

From the point in 1 conduct the right horizontal line. Crossing it with a vertical line conducted from the point but 1 denotes letter in 3. Line in 2 in 3 pro suffer to the right to 1-5 cm and put a point in 4:

in 3 in 4 \u003d 1-5 cm

Point in 4 are connected to a ruler with a point but 1 line continues up and on it from point but 1, lay down 9-14 cm of the angle; put point in 5:

but 1 but 5 \u003d 9-14 cm

Section in 2 in 3 divide into 3 parts and the right point of division of a smooth curve is connected to the point in 5 .

5.Turning collar-rack.

Build a straight corner with a vertex BUT, the parties of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

Line, mid - vertical side of the corner.

Upper slice and flushing line. From the point BUT on the horizontal side of the angle, the segment is laid out, equal to the measurement of the neck of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put the point BUT 1 ,:

A. 1 \u003d POS + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the transfer after the product).

From the point BUT on the line of the middle lay down 3-4 cm - the width of the collar and put a point IN:

AU\u003d 3-4 cm

From the point IN spend the right auxiliary horizontal line, and from the point BUT 1 up vertical. Their intersection is denoted by the letter IN 1 .

The front edge of the rack can be lifted by 1 cm. To do this from the points BUT 1 I. IN 1 up vertical laying 1 cm. Segments AA 1 I. BB 1 they divide into 3 parts and the right-wing division points pairly connect with smooth curves with dots 1 cm. The length of the top slice in the middle is reduced by 0.5 cm.

Stand collar has many options. Patch Collar Rack in the form of a rectangular stripsome lag behind the neck. For its construction, the length of the throat line and the height of the rack are needed. Line of the top slice parallel to the voltage line.

If you wish, you can give a collar funnel-shaped. Plotting line is bent in the same way in the opposite direction.

Pattern collar-Hamuticait also has a rectangular shape, but his height is twice the height of the rack. The pattern of the collar of this type is usually built with a somewhat extended neck. I cut it at an angle of 45 ° to the threads of the base and double width, that is, the upper and lower collar is linked from one whole piece of fabric, having a deposit line in a bent of material.

Pattern collars moving to a bow or scarf, build the same as collar-homutics and a rectangular rack, but the height and length of the collar is chosen in

depending on the model and type of fabric.


Models of collars may vary infinitely, but their foundations are always the same. When building all types of collars, the rule applies: first neck, then the collar.

For most collars, the width and depth of the new neck is important, and not its shape. However, if the rack collar is built on the shelf and the back of the model with a large neckline, then the form of the new neck is transferred to the line of the lower cutting of the rack. The shape of the collar-rack is determined by the length of the top cutting line of the collar. The smaller the length of the top cutting line of the collar-rack, the more dense it is adjacent to the neck.

This article shows all-crumbled racks, racks in products with lapels of various shapes, as well as cutting racks built on a shelf and a back with large neckline cuts.

The basis for the construction of collars is the drawing of the base of the jacket of a semi-accepting silhouette, the shelf and the back is depicted to the waist, as only the construction of the collar is considered.

Stand, whole-crocated with a shelf and back

There are two types of solid racks. In the first case, the collar is built wholely crumbled with a shelf and the back, when connecting the shoulder sections, the side sections of the collar are connected, which are the continuation of the shoulder shelves and the backs.

In the second case, the collar is built solid only with the shelf, and on the back it is in charge of the neck.

Connect the side sides of the breastplate and temporarily translate it to the waist.

The neck of the shelf and the back is increased by the amount due to the model. For a small solid-crocated rack, it is necessary to expand the neck of the shelf and the back on the shoulder by 1.5 cm and deepen the neck along the middle of the back to 1 cm, in the middle of the shelf by 1.5 cm.

Draw a new neck. On the back of the neck draws at right angles to the middle of the back. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new shelf and backrest.

From the vertices of the new neck, the shelf and the back is drawn by perpendicular to the auxiliary lines for which the height of the rack is 2.5 cm. Extend the middle back line up and postpone the height of the rack - 3 cm.

In parallel, the middle of the shelf draw the line of the edge of the side. Mark the location of the loop / buttons.

Draw the upper cut of the collar-rack according to the drawing. This line is needed to translate the molding solution to the bulk of the blades to the top cutting of the collar and to eliminate the top cutting of the collar on the back.

On the shelf, the elongation of the top cutting of the collar for this model is not required, because Collar narrow.

Details Crawing racks, solid with a shelf and back

After translating the cutting to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.5 cm to each side of the cutting, this will additionally extend the top cut of the collar on the back.

High rack, solidized with a shelf and back

The solid rack can have a greater height than in the previous model with the condition that the line of its upper cut will be sufficiently long. To do this, a part of a solution of breast pads on the shelf is translated to the upper cut of the collar. As shown in the previous example, the molding of the blades is also translated to the top cut of the collar to lengthen the top cutting of the collar on the back.

The shelf cut from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the breaststuffs, 1 cm of the breast paddling solution to translate to the neck for its increase, the residue of the solution is temporarily transferred to the waist.

For a high solid-crumbled collar, the neck of the shelf and the back is to expand on the shoulder for 2 cm and deepen along the middle line of the back to 1 cm. Draw a new neck, on the back - at right angles to the midline.

Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new shelf and backrest.

From the vertices of the new neck on the shelf and the back, draw the perpendicular to the auxiliary lines, which to postpone the height of the collar-rack - 6 cm. Extend the average back line line up and postpone the height of the collar - 6.5 cm.

Draw the upper cut collar-racks according to the drawing.

From the point of the middle of the upper cutting section of the collar on the back, draw the cut line until the end of the cutting on the bulk of the blades.

Details Crow High Rack

Cut the back over the cut line to translate the deposit on the bulge of the blades. Translate the wrapper to the bulk of the blades to the top cut of the rack.

The inner part of the collar and the weld will be copied from the drawing. Control the length of the top cutting of the collar. Correct sections in places of conjugation and specify the direction of the base of the base.

Figured rack, solid with a shelf and back

This model with a figured all-crumbled rack looks particularly effectively. Thanks to such original items, the product acquires fashionable ease.

The shelf cut from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the side sides of the breastplate; 0.7 cm of a solution of breast paddling translate to the neck for its increase, the residue of the solution is temporarily transferred to the waist.

For this solid-crocated collar, the neck of the shelf and the back is expanding on the shoulder for 2 cm; To deepen the neck along the middle of the shelf at 1.5 cm and on the middle of the back to 1 cm. draw a new line of the neck, on the back - at a right angle to the midline. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new shelf and backrest.

From the top of the new neck, the shelf and the backs, draw the perpendicular to the auxiliary lines, which to postpone the height of the rack - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back line up and postpone the height of the rack - 4.5 cm.

Draw the upper cut of the rack. On the shelf collar draw in accordance with the model (see drawing).

From the point of the middle of the upper cutting section of the collar on the back, draw the cut line until the end of the cutting on the bulk of the blades.

Details Croy Fine Rack

Cut the back over the cut line to translate the deposit on the bulge of the blades. Translate the wrapper to the bulk of the blades to the top cut of the rack.

After translating the cutting to the top cut of the collar on the back should be added to 0.7 cm for each side of the outlet, this will additionally expand the collar from behind. To shorten the outlet on the bulk of the blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

The inner part of the collar and the weld will be copied from the drawing. Control the length of the line of the top cutting of the collar. Correct the lines of sections in places of conjugation and specify the direction of the feed thread

Stand, solid-crumbled with a shelf

This model shows the construction of the rack, solicitous only with the shelf. The advantage of this type of collar is that you can change the length of the top cutting line of the collar due to the change of the angle of inclination of the back of the collar.

Connect the side sides of the breastplate and temporarily translate the solution to the side line.

The neck to expand on the shoulder shelf and the back of 1.5 cm; In the middle of the back, deepen the neck for 1 cm. Hand draw a new neck on the back at right angles to the midline.

Hold the auxiliary line through the extreme points of the extended neck only on the shelf. This auxiliary line extend by value equal to the value of the length of the new neck of the back.

From the last received point, draw perpendicular to the auxiliary line 1 cm long (for this model). The more this value, the greater the angle of inclination of the back of the collar, the greater the length of the line of its upper cut and, accordingly, the less the collar is adjacent to the neck.

Hold the line of the lower cut of the collar-rack on its back. At right angles to the resulting line, draw the average rack line.

From the top of the extended neck, the shelf draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line, according to which the height of the rack is 4 cm. On the midline of the collar, postpone 4.5 cm. Hand draw the line of the top cutting of the collar.

Details cut racks, solid with a shelf

Draw the auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the neck of the shelf and the back.

From the vertices of the new neck, the shelf and backs draw the perpendicular to the auxiliary lines for which the rack height is 4 cm. Extend the middle back line up and postpone the height of the rack - 4.5 cm.

In parallel, the middle of the shelf draw the line of the edge of the side and the inflection of Lartskana, mark the location of the buttons. Arrange the cuts of the lapel and the collar.

From the point of the middle of the upper cutting section of the collar on the back, draw the cut line until the end of the cutting on the bulk of the blades. This line is needed to translate the molding solution to the upper cut of the collar on the back and lengthening the upper cut.

Details Crawing Racks with Sale Lake

Cut the back over the cut line to translate the deposit on the bulge of the blades. Translate the wrapper to the bulk of the blades to the top cut of the rack.

After translating the cutting to the top cut of the collar on the back should be added to 0.7 cm for each side of the outlet, this will additionally expand the collar from behind.

To shorten the outlet on the bulk of the blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

The inner part of the collar and the weld will be copied from the drawing. Control the length of the top cutting of the collar.

Correct sections in places of conjugation and specify the direction of the base of the base.

Cutting rack in the product with lapels

Cutting collars-racks in products with various variants of Lartkanov always look unique. If the calcination of the neck on the shelf and the back of the shoulder line is significant or the size of the collar on the shelf is very different from the size of the collar on the back, then the front part of the collar should be copied and used when constructing a cutting rack.

Connect the side sides of the breastplate, the solution is temporarily transferred to the waist.

The neck to expand on the shoulder of the shelf and the back of 2.5 cm, deepen the neck along the middle of the shelf by 4.5 cm and in the middle of the back to 1 cm. Hand draw a new line of the shelf and backrest.

In parallel, the middle of the shelf draw the line of the edge of the side. Draw the Lartkana inflection line and mark the location of the buttons / loops. The contours of Lartskana and the collar draw on the shelf.

Build a cut-down collar-rack based on a direct angle. To do this, measure the length of the new neck of the shelf and backrest and postpone the resulting value along the horizontal line from the source point. From the resulting point, put up the vertical 3 cm to determine the value of the front of the collar and draw the lower cutting of the rack.

The height of the collar in the midline is 4 cm. The front of the collar is copied from the drawing of the shelter and combine with the drawing of the collar (darkened area on the drawing of the collar). Finish the design of collar sections.

Details Crowe of the cutting rack in the product with lapels

The shoulder length of the shelves and the back in this model is 2 cm. Hand draw the line of the model neck according to the drawing. This line is also the bottom cut of the collar.

At a right angle to the bottom cut of the collar up to draw the line, the corresponding line of the middle of the shelf on the collar length is 7 cm. In parallel this line, draw the contours of the collar fastener.

At a right angle to the bottom cut of the collar from the shoulder of the shelf and the back, draw the side sides of the parts of the collar with a length of 7 cm.

Extend up the middle back line and postpone it from the model neck, the value of the rack height is 7 cm. Through the points obtained, draw the cuts-rack sections.

Details Crow cutting rack

The length of the shoulder shelf and the back for this model is 2 cm. Hand draw the line of the edge of the side at a distance of 8 cm from the middle of the shelf. Draw a model neck according to the drawing.

Draw on the shelf the contours of the collar and the figure insert the shelf, solid with lapel and the fee. Draw the back of the collar on the back in accordance with the drawing. The height of the collar racks is 7 cm.

Measure the length of the upper sections of parts of the collar on the shelf and the back.

Details Crow Cut Soft Form Rack

This rack collar is exhibited in the oblique direction of the base of the base, solid, in the form of a rectangle. The length of the lower cutting of the collar is equal to the length of the upper cut of the parts of the collar on the shelf and the back, which is measured in the drawing.

Figured insert shelf, solid-crumbled with lapel and appointed, copy from drawing and mirrorly copy relative to the fold line. Connect the side sides of the breastplate.

Correct sections in places of conjugation and specify the direction of the base of the base.

This type of collar is more often used in the upper clothes. Therefore, a single-circuit rack is built on basic drawings of a coat, jacket or jacket.

The drawing of the collar-rack is built on an extended neck. How to expand the neck - you decide, according to the style you have chosen for sewing. This value fluctuates in fairly significant limits of 0-5 cm or more. The higher the rack, the wider there should be a neck. The height of the rack can also be different. If we talk about mean values, it is 4-8 cm.

Note. The presence or absence of a seam in the middle of the back has a value! Building in these two versions will not be significantly, but differ. Today we are building a pattern of an all-circuit rack for a coat with a seam in the middle of the back.

And so, suppose that we need to build a ring-racked collar for a fashionable coat of the O-shaped silhouette with a seam in the middle of the back. For this task, we need to decide on the rack height and, accordingly, with a throat width. Let's expand the neck for 2.5 cm and take the height of the rack 8 cm, as the coat is quite volumetric, then we will make the rack appropriate.

Copy on separate sheets of paper parts basics of coat: Backs and shelves. If you get ready-made some kind of coat model, then you will consider that the neck has already undergone design changes in accordance with the style. How to do in this case, I will tell later.

And now we focus our attention on the back drawing and proceed to the design of the rack.

We will expand the neck of the back for 2.5 cm. For this, from the top of the neck, we postpone the necessary value on the shoulder cut back and put the point O. draw a new line of the neck, connecting the points A and O - this line will be needed later to build the outtur.

From points A and O upper vertical lines.

From the point and up, we put the rack height and put the O1 point. In our example, the height of the rack will be 8 cm, and you postpone your value. Remember, the height of the rack can be different.

From the point about up, we postpone the height of the rack minus 0.5-1 cm and put the O2 point (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm). Those. We slightly underestimate the height of the rack at the level of the shoulder cut. This value is not permanent, its average values \u200b\u200bare in the range of 0.5-1 cm.

Now we need to do sCOS for midline rack AO1. To do this, to the left of the point O1 lay the magnitude of the bevel. The magnitude of the bevel can also be different, within 0.5-2 cm. We will focus on average values, for example, take 1 cm and postpone from the point O1 to the left and put the O3 point. Draw the middle line of the rack, connecting points a and o3.

Make scope on the shoulder line OO2. As a rule, the magnitude of this bevel can be equal to or less than the magnifies of the midline. The magnitude of the bevel depends on the style of the product, on the degree of fitting the rack to the neck, etc. We take the value of 0.7 cm and lay it from the point O2 to the left, we put the point O4.

Decorated top cut line rack. The configuration of the top line of the rack, depending on the specified parameters, can be framed both direct and smooth line. It is important that the upper outline suggests the middle line to the upper circuit at a right angle - this is the general rule of constructing the grids of all collars.

Decorated shoulder line Smooth curve, as shown in Figure 4.

To ensure the fit of the product through the neck of the back Build a sweep.
Outtage is located in the middle of the JSC.

Vault solution The back is usually within 0.7-1 cm. We take 1 cm.

Length Pullock equal to double rack height. In our case, it is 8x2 \u003d 16 cm, with the top of the molding should not reach the upper cutting of the rack by 0.5 cm.

Through the middle of the AO section, we conduct a line parallel to the line of the shoulder cutting of the rack.
On the throat line, we distribute a sample solution of 1 cm on both sides from the center line of the outturock is 0.5 cm.

Down from the throat line of AO laying 8 cm.

The vertex of the duck is lowered by 0.5 cm from the top line of the rack. And we decorate the wretched, as shown in Figure 5.

Open-rized backrest stand built.

Now proceed to building a rack on the shelf.

In our example, the coat has a fastener on the loop and buttons, so in the middle we give the allowance, retreating from the middle line 3-4 cm, the shelf patterns the edge of the edge of the side along the entire length.

The boards width for a coat can be different, it depends on several factors and is determined in accordance with the style. In our example, the boards width is 3 cm.

And now we build a rack.

Just like on the back, we will expand the neck of 2.5 cm, the expansion point is denoted by the letter S.

From the point with up, we postpone the height of the rack minus 0.5 cm - the same as on the back, the shoulder slice of the rack is increasing by 0.5 cm (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm) and put the C1 point.

Make scope on the Shoulder Line SS1.To do this, to the right of the C1 point, we post 2 cm and put the C2 point.

Decorated shoulder line Smooth curve, as shown in the figure.

From point to up, we postpone the height of the rack 8 cm and put the point B1. By the way, the height of the rack front can be different and may not depend on the height of the rack on the back. In our example, it could well be 9-10 cm or, on the contrary, to have much less importance if it would assume the style of the product.

SCOS for the front line The racks can be 2-4 cm. Delay the skew value to the right from point B1 and put the point B2.

Let us place the top cutting line of the smooth line, as shown in the figure. The front cut of the rack is decorated with a straight line.

Building a molding on the shelf.

To ensure a good fit of the product on the figure, you must remove the resulting excess the width of the neck into the fallow.

The location of the molding on the shelf depends on the style, from the features of the figure, etc. We will build a standard option. The direction of the molding is perpendicular to the throat line.

Vault solution On the shelf usually lies within 1-1.5 cm. We take 1.5 cm.

Length Pullockon the shelf, as well as on the back, is taken depending on the height of the rack. In our case, it is 16 cm (double rack height).

The ditch center is located on the throat line, at a distance of 1/3 of its length from the middle line of the shelf. Simply put, we measure the length of the neck from the middle line of the shelf to the shoulder and divide to three. Put the resulting result from the middle line of the shelf and build an outlet. We distribute the cutting solution along the neckline of 1.5 cm: 2 \u003d 0.75 cm. Down from the throat line laying 8 cm, and the vertex of the molding should not reach the top cutting of the rack by 0.5 cm.

That's all! Works for 20 minutes.

And remember, no hard rules! Only one who goes beyond standards can get unusual, i.e. Unusual, exceptional, special, unique result.

Experiment! Successes!

The one-piece collar consists of two parts. The lower part of the collars are cut out with the shelf, and the upper part with the fee (in the welds it is allowed to put on a 2.5-3 metering of the upper loop). Over the form of single-circular collars, as well as inch, can be with a greater or less resistant, tightly adjacent to the neck or lagging.

The drawings also build on the pattern patterns of the leaf. The exception is an isolated collar-stand, the drawing of which is performed on the patterns of the back and leaf.

1. Acellent collar-rack adjacent to the neck.

Back. Retire the main pattern of the back. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter R, the lower - R 1 . The midfield line continues up on 3-4 cm (rack height) and put a point BUT:R 1 BUT\u003d 3-4 cm

From the point R Up vertically lay the height of the rack on the shoulder - it is equal to the height of the rack in the middle of the back minus 1 cm; put point R 2 :

Pp. 2 = R 1 BUT- 1 \u003d (3-4) - 1 \u003d 2-3 cm

From the point R 2 left horizontally and from point R Up verticals are deposited by P1 cm. Both points1 cm are connected by a smooth curve, continuing it to the shoulder cut.

Before. Run the main pattern with moved onto a side loop shoulder pulling. The highest point of the neck is denoted by the letter IN, low - IN 1 . Shoulder Line from point INcontinue to right at the height of the rack and denote IN 2 :

BB 2 = 2-3 cm

From the point IN 2 up at right angles to the continued shoulder line, a segment is carried out equal to 1/2 rack height; put point IN 3 .

IN 2 IN 3 \u003d (BB 2: 2) \u003d (2-3): 2 \u003d 1-1.5 cm

Point IN 3 connect a smooth curve with a point IN.The height of the rack in the middle of the transference is equal to its height over the shoulder slice or determined by the model. The upper cut of the collar can be supplied to the depth of the neck - point IN 1 , and if in front of the clasp - decorated to the edge of the side. Checkpoints celebrate the highest points of the sprout and neck.

2. The fleeced collar rack, lagging behind the neck.
Back. On a sheet of paper, the main pattern of the back will dodge. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter Rlow - R 1 . Expand the sprout by 1-3 cm (point P 2):

Pp. 2 \u003d 1-3 cm

The middle line continues up to 6-8 cm (rack height) and put a point BUT:

R 1 BUT \u003d 6-8 cm

From the point R 2 up verticals are postponing the height of the shoulder rack, equal to its height in the middle of minus 1 cm; put point BUT 1 :

R 2 BUT 1 = (R 1 BUT - 1) \u003d (6-8) - 1 \u003d 5-7 cm

Points BUT 1 and BUTconnect a smooth concave curve. If the backrest with a seam, the rack line continues to the left by 0.5 cm and the point 0.5 cm is connected to a ruler with a point R 1 .

From the point BUT 1 postpone left 0.5 cm. From point R 2 up vertical - 1 cm. Connecting 0.5 cm and 1 cm smooth concave curve, draw up the side cutting line of the rack. Checkpoint - at the point P 2.

At half the length of the new line, the sprout is drawn up. It is equal to 1 cm, the length up and down from the sprout line corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

Before. Put the main pattern. The highest point of the neck is denoted by a point IN,lower IN 1 . If there is a fastener, they give to the middle of the transfer at a start-up of 2,5-3 cm wide (point IN 2 ). Expand the neck by 1-3 cm (point IN 3):

BB 3 \u003d 1-3 cm

From the point IN 3 up vertically spend a segment equal to the height of the backrest rack at the shoulder seam; put point AT 4:

IN 3 IN 4 = R 2 BUT 1 \u003d 5-7 cm

From the point AT 4right horizontally postpone 2 cm, put a point IN 5:

IN 4 At 5 \u003d.2 cm

From the point in 2 upwards, a segment is laid out of the continued line of the edge of the midfielder, equal to the height of the rack plus 1 cm; put point IN 6:

IN 2 IN 6 = (IN 3 IN 4 + 1) \u003d (5-7) + 1 \u003d 6-8 cm

From the point AT 6right horizontally deposited 2 cm (point in 7):

IN 6 IN 7 \u003d 2 cm

Make up the top and side sections of the collar, connecting smooth concave point curves IN 5 and IN 7 , IN 5 and IN 3. Points IN 7 I. IN 2 are connected to a ruler. Checkpoint - at the point IN 3 .

Outts are made on 1/3 of the length of the new neckline (excluding half-offs). It is equal to 1-1.5 cm, the length is up and down from the throat line corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

3.thood collar.

IN, lower - IN 1 .

Collar tilt line.From the point IN 1 is postponed along the middle line 15-20 cm and mark the position of the upper loop. 15-20 cm point are connected to a point IN Under the ruler and continue the line up behind the shoulder cut.

Plotting line in sprout. IN Up postpone the segment equal to 1/3 of the neck of the neck of the neck plus 1 cm, and put a point BUT:

AU \u003d POS: 3 + 1 \u003d 18: 3 + 1 \u003d 7 cm

From the point BUTrestore the left perpendicular, on which 1,5 cm is deposited (for a higher rack - 2-3 cm). Points1.5 cm and in connected slightly convex curve. Its length is compared with a length of the sprout and, if necessary, continue the line up.

Middle cut.From the point BUTright restore perpendicular, on which 8 cm is deposited; put point BUT 1:

AA 1 \u003d 8 cm

Point BUT 1 cross the line parallel to the collar tilt line. On it from the point BUT 1 up postpone 2 cm. Two cm points and BUTconnect auxiliary straight.

From the point BUT on the auxiliary line lay down 6-14 cm and put a point BUT 2 .

The entire width of the collar - segment from point 1.5 mats BUT 2 They are divided into 3 parts and the left division point is connected to a refined line of sweeping in the sprout.

The flying cut is decorated with a line perpendicular to the middle cut line (it can be straight or concave - on the style). The size and configuration of the delay will clarify on the figure. To do this, the pattern is cut with 3-5 cm on the departures of the departure of the departure 3-5 cm. The lower part of the collar is caught up on the fabric also with the allowance to refine the size and configuration of the departure. The upper collar with the weld is cut after fitting when the configuration and size of the lower collar will be specified.

The allowance for half-positions (2.5 cm) is deposited from the top loop - 15-20 cm points.

When constructing collar Shali. The construction starts with the connection point of the beginning of the screening of the board with the upper point of the shoulder cut and the neck.

This line continues to the length of the neck of the back. To obtain collars with different degrees of fit to the neck, the deviation of the flushing line from the straight line at the upper point can be 1-4 cm to the side of the shoulder cut.

By setting the necessary amount of deviation of the smooth curve, the collar flow line in the neck of the back is carried out. On the site corresponding to the back of the product, this line passes almost parallel to the threading line in the neck, then a smooth, uniform curved curve is brought to the beginning of the lapel wavelength. The line of the middle of the collar is built on the perpendicular of the extreme point of the collar in the sweeping line. On the line of the middle note the desired collar width.

Based on this collar, changing the departure configuration, you can get many options for single collars.

4. Floor-raised collar.

On a sheet of paper, drive the pattern. The highest point of the neck is denoted by the letter IN.

Collar tilt line.The point of the top loop position is connected to a ruler with a point. INand continue the line up behind the shoulder cut.

Plotting line in sprout.On the lines of the collar from the point INup postpone the segment equal to 1/3 of the neck of the neck of the neck, and put a point BUT:

AB \u003d.POST : 3 \u003d 18: 3 \u003d 6 cm

From the point BUT Restore left perpendicular.

The pattern of the back is applied to the contour of transmission so that the highest point of the sprout coincides with the highest point of the neck, and the lowest point of the sprout was on the line conducted from the point BUT.Rip the sprout and middle of the back.

Middle cut.From the sprout on the line of the middle of the back, 7-14 cm - the width of the collar behind the back.

Flying sliceregistered on the style. The configuration and the size of the departure is specified in the same way as when constructing a single-crushed stand-postponed collar.

When constructing the pattern of collars of a jacket type on the pattern, the position of the line of the deck is determined, i.e. the flow of the collar in the neck on the title side of the side. The position of this line is determined by the fashion and desire of the author of the product. The upper part of this line passes along the neck of the shelf, and then it is carried out simultaneously with the Lyckana ledge line. Observing the Lacan, depending on the position of its ledge, the lines of the ledge and the departure of the collar are carried out. The pattern of the collar is sliced \u200b\u200bfrom the pattern of the shelf along the line of the deck.

If the internal collars of this type must have an in-depth, curved neck, the neckline is carried out on the pattern of a smooth curve from the point of origin of the lapel wavelength (or the start of the collar) to the top point of the shoulder slice and the neck. The value of the deviation of this line from the straight, connecting point is usually equal to 1-2 cm. The folding line of the collar is built symmetrically spent straight, and its recess is also 1-2 cm.

Options for fantasy collars for an open neck.