Production process: how to sew t-shirts and sweatshirts. Blood-carved clothing, or what is the real price of your new brand clothes

This is a story about the clothes we wear, about people manufacturing it, and how it all affects the modern world. This is the story of greed and fear, power and poverty. The story that is common everywhere.

This story is about how in the 21st century - a century of new technologies - continues to reign poverty, indifference and cruelty. About how easily and simply transnational corporations manage our consciousness through advertising. And how a huge terrible system of fashionable economy takes thousands of lives annually.

This is the real fashion price, which will not specify on the price tags.

Fashionable consumption

British journalist Lucy Sigle For many years, studies the influence of the Fashion industry to modern society. She tells: "I had a huge classic closet with clothes. Clothing was everywhere. Bags constantly went to me home - every day with new things. And I was constantly nothing to wear. " Now Lucy changed her point of view and their attitude to clothing and fashion as a whole. It happened after Sigle began to study the outstanding of the fashion world.

"To a certain extent, we all seem to be surrounding with the help of clothes. It was so necessary - while royal yards were fashion trends. So there was a kind of communication, "said Orsol de Castro clothing designer.

Previously, a system was in the fashion industry - people visited autumn, winter, spring and summer shows. For many years, this system worked like a clock. Today, this has nothing to do with the fashion industry. It was reborn. There was a ruthless transition to mass production, the owners of which are interesting only to the profits received from the society, asked for a drug called "Consumption".

Many people around the world are not interested in fashion nothing but the price of clothing. Well, perhaps still her style. But they are involved in the ruthless consumer system.

Prices are reduced, and profits grow

In the 90s most of the clothing brands (95%) were produced in the United States. Today, America covers only 3% of broadcast production - the remaining factories are located in developing countries of the world. Most - in China.

If you trace the pricing of each thing in the last 20 years, it turns out that there has been deflation. That is, the cost of production has fallen over time. But did the cost of things fall in stores? For some reason, no. On the contrary - prices are growing every year. As well as the owners of factory workers and corporations.

This is a new model of the fashion industry - Fast Fashion (fast fashion), in which casual wear stores are growing like on yeast. After all, now the fashion is not limited to two main seasons (autumn-winter and spring-summer), adding another 50 tensions to them - this is how it is possible to name constant, weekly revenues of new products in the shops. Increasing the turnover is the main goal and the task of fast fashion.

If fashion and spiritual values \u200b\u200bare mixed together - we receive a recipe for the creation of a consumption society, which believes that the acquisition of another novelty is the key to happiness and internal satisfaction.

The method of manufacturing products has changed completely. And someday will have to ask a question: how will it end?

Fashion cost of human lives

John Hilary, the executive director of one of such companies, explains: "Globalization means that the production of all products is given to countries with a low level of economy, especially those where low salaries are preserved. This means that those who are on the top of the price chain can choose where to produce products and can travel, if in the factory, for example, they will say that they can no longer do so cheaply. The brand will not make concessions - he simply translates the factory capacity to the country where cheap labor is preserved. "

In the West, the term "everywhere low price" is used. So, if the customers factories (owners of fashion stores) see that competitors sell a shirt for $ 5, they begin to think how to sell the same for 4 dollars. They come to manufacturers with a lower price offer - and they are lit by their employees in order not to lose the next client. And such a dumping prices from customers can continue to infinity - simultaneously with the situation in which the manufacturing staff is enough for any cheap order to survive and stay afloat.

Such treasures, and in addition, ignoring security measures have become acceptable with a new model of fashion business.

One day, the extension of fashionable business in Bangladesh fell on the editors of world publications. Then not far from Duck, the capital of Bangladesh, the 8-storey building "Rana Plaza" collapsed, buried several hundred people (and leaving as many people with disabilities). The house contained one of the things in the house, and its owners ignored the order of the authorities about the evacuation of personnel from the emergency building, the walls of which were covered with cracks for some time before the tragedy. It was the most terrible catastrophe in the global industry of light industry - the total number of collapses exceeded a thousand people.

Many journalists then became interested in problems accompanying the supply chain of goods for fast fashion, and tried to transfer in their materials, what risk falls on the shoulders of the most unprotected category of personnel, which are just paying less than all. For example, workers of that ill-fated factory in Bangladesh received 2 dollars a day.

For some terrible coincidence, in a short period of time, there were several fires on other sewing factories that took the lives of several hundred people together with the collapse of the building.

But the worst thing: next year after the tragedies became the most profitable for the fast fashion industry.

Now the annual turnover in the fashion sphere around the world is about 3 trillion dollars. Bangladesh became the second after China in terms of export of clothing, being at the bottom of the price chain.

Rhetorical questions

If the Multi-Stillion Fashion Industry can bring a giant profits to a handful of people, why can it not create human conditions for ordinary "ants" carrying it on their shoulders? Can not guarantee their safety? Can not observe the elementary human rights?

In an interview with journalists, the management of large companies confidently and proudly declare that they gave these workers to earn a piece of bread for their family, because without their factories, these people could generally be hungry.

But why, in this case, the top managers forget to mention the 12-hour working day for a penny payment, which is barely enough for food for the family? Or that child labor in their factories is quite a normal phenomenon, since the low earnings of adults simply lacks for the whole family? Did residents of poor countries do not deserve the same normal working conditions as the inhabitants of developed prosperous countries that wear clothes, sewing half-starved poor people?

The creation of the jobs themselves, the owners of the factory justify the difficulties that these seats carry their owners: the risk of work in emergency buildings, the lack of health care and proper safety control. But local residents have no choice where to work to work to feed the family. How there is no time to think about your fate and earnings below the subsistence minimum.

For the age of 16, there is an international organization of fair trade (OST), interested in the social growth of simple workers from developing countries. More than 60 countries of the world participate in the movement of fair trade (10-60 organizations in each country). OST is trying to create his own parallel (fair) world of fashion - with fashionable shows and collections of clothing, when creating not only the aesthetic characteristics of things, but also the working conditions of those who from scratch creates things.

But, alas, since the Ost is a socio-commercial structure that makes money to increase the standard of living of their employees, and not money for money, then few people know about her outside the professional sphere. Therefore, their activity looks like a drop in the sea of \u200b\u200binternational chase for profit.

"We sew clothes with their blood ..."

23-year-old Shima Achter from Bangladesh has been working at the factory of one of the major Western brands in the Duck. Shima is one of 4 million seats for 5 thousand factories in Bangladesh. Her salary is now below the minimum (just over $ 2 per day). And 12-year-old Shime paid at all 10 dollars a month - as a beginner seam. Which worked on a par with adults.

Shima has a little daughter. The girl is not with whom to leave the crumb, so she often takes her to work with him, although it recognizes that evaporation of special production solutions is very harmful to children. In other cases, Shima leaves a little Nadia in a remote village from relatives, where the girl does not attend school and can not learn. Mom and daughter are seen just a few times a year ...

When the workers of her enterprises in a western model tried to organize a trade union and put forward a list of fair demands to the leadership, the owners first agreed. And then activists were invited to a closed room (allegedly for discussion) and severely beaten. At this desire to file a voice and protect your rights dried up even in the most advanced workers.

"We sew clothes with their blood, and many will buy a thing and put it just once. They do not imagine and do not think, as it is difficult for us. We do not want people to wear clothes, sewing our blood and the price of our lives, the lives of our children. We just want normal life and normal working conditions. We want the conscious owners of the factory to think about us, "said their sad thoughts of Shima in an interview with Andrew Morgan in the documentary" Real Fashion price ".

Real price of fashionable rags

Every year in the world produce almost 80 billion units, but practically each second thing is not for salebecause it's just to buy it! Things have become too much, things just enslaved the consciousness of many people. A suicide race for sales, for fashionable brands, the conflict generates a conflict in the consumer consciousness between the imposed consumer worldview and the spiritual beginning, which is still trying to deny what is happening.

The contrast between "Black Fridays" in the United States, when people press each other, just to have the first to purchase fashionable rags with a discount, and by the poor quarters of Asian countries, where children don't even have one pair of shoes - isn't this difference?

Think about it at least once, when once again you will consider showcases and estimate whether to spend a third of salary for regular trendy shoes.

"We spend the money they don't have, on things that we do not need to impress people who do not like it," this is not just a quote, popular in the Internet. These are words that reflect our current reality.

Your new dress, 20th in a row, is it worth the health of thousands of simple workers from the third world countries?

The article is prepared by materials

August 1, 2015, 21:54

Most American and European sportswear brands have transferred their production to countries with cheap workforce. Even some Ukrainian and Russian enterprises, registering the brand abroad, sew clothes in China.

The story of this great German brand can be started from the birth of the founder - Adolf Dassler. After the First World Dasschers decided to organize their business, namely the workshop to sewing shoes. Already by 1925, Adi, as an avid footballer made himself the first pair of ships with spikes. She was for him a local blacksmith, the first boots were born. They turned out to be so comfortable that they began to be made in the factory along with slippers.

In the late 40s after the death of the head of the family, the brothers quarreled and shared the company. They divided the factory, each brother went on one, agreed on the use of the old name and the logo of the Dassler's shoes. Addas decided to call his brand Addas, and Ruda - Ruda, but soon their names were changed to Adidas and Puma, respectively. The Dassler brand was successfully forgotten.

Columbia.

COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR COMPANY -the American company produces and sells clothing for outdoor.

The company was founded by German emigrants of the second wave with Jewish roots - the field and Marie Lamphra. Kolumbia was founded in 1937 in Portland and she was engaged in selling hats. The name Colombia Hat Company appeared in honor of the river of the same name, which occurred not far from the residence of the family Lamphr.

The caps that Colombia sold were low, so Paul decided to do its production, namely the sewing shirts and other simple working clothes. Later the daughter of the founders sewed a fishing jacket with a lot of pockets. It was the first jacket in the range of products of the company, its sales brought some kind of fame of the factory.

Nike Inc. - American company, world famous manufacturer of sports goods. Headquarters - in the city of Beiverton, Oregon, USA. The company was founded in 1964 by the student of Phil Knight. He was a runner at the middle distance in the University of Oregon. In those years, athletes have almost no choice in sports shoes. Adidas cost expensive, about $ 30, and ordinary American sneakers cost $ 5, but their legs were hurt.

To correct the situation, Phil Knight came up with a brilliant diagram: order sneakers in Asian countries and sell them in the US market. At first, the company was called Blue Ribbon Sports and officially did not exist. Sneakers were sold literally from the hands, or rather from the vita-minibus. He just stayed on the street and began to trade. During the year of existence, the company sold sneakers for $ 8,000. Later, Nik's logo was invented.

Nike got wider fame due to the "waffle" sole, which allowed to make shoes easier and slightly increase the impetus during running. That is what the inventions launched a nike into leaders.

The history of PUMA begins simultaneously with the story of Adidas, since the founders of brands are brothers. (See historyAdidas). Rudolf in 1948 founded his company - Puma . In 1960, the world saw a new company logo, the image of the feline-loved by many representatives of the Feline.

For many years, the company worked exclusively for athletes. By the beginning of the 90s Puma was found on the verge of bankruptcy. Consumers considered a brand imitate and inexpressive. The new leadership put a new goal - to make the brand Puma the most creative and desired. The main element in the revival was the solution to develop shoes and clothing aimed at narrow segments, such as, for example, snowboarders, auto racing fans and yoga adherents.

Reebok is an international company for the production of sports clothing and accessories. Headquarters is located in the suburb of Boston Counton (Massachusetts). Currently, adidas is a subsidiary.

The reason for the foundation of the British company Reebok was quite the logical desire of English athletes run faster. So in 1890, Joseph William Foster made the first running sneakers with spikes. Until 1895, Foster was engaged in manually made shoes for top-level athletes.

In 1958, two Foster's grandchildren found a new company and call it in honor of African Gazelle - Reebok. By 1981, Reebok sales profit reaches $ 1.5 million, but the most great success of Reebok was next year. Reebok presents the first sports shoes specifically for women - fitness sneakers who were named freestyletm.

Sportmaster

Demix. - brand of sportswear and shoes, created by the network stores Sportmaster (sports goods in Ukraine and Russia). Initially, the company was founded in Russia, in 1992. In Ukraine, the Sportmaster came in 1996.

The DEMIX trademark appeared in 1994. As you know, in China to do clothing cheap and design on sportswear and shoes stands inexpensively. So on the counters of the sportmaster, a cheap sports form and shoes appeared. The price of Demix products is at least 50% lower than global brands like Adidas or Nike.

Girls, you right now die: here and Gucci, and Hermes, and Chanel, and Chloe! What superbrand do not take products of any of them concerned the casual hands of local leathermen. And they work in a place as far away from the podiums and boutiques: in dark and small workshops in the middle of a tiny white town lost in the mountains of Andalusia.

I got to Ublik to see with my own eyes - what is he, the world's best leather handmade.

1 Decorating in the picturesque valley of the town of Ublik - a real Spanish hole. There is no airport, no railway station, buses rarely and then from the outskirts. Ubrowka is included in the tourist route "White Cities Andalusia", but unlike its neighbors, there would be nothing to do here if it were not for the skin.

2 Products of local leather workshops are famous for the whole world and costs huge money. You will not believe, but Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Hermes, Chanel, Chloe, Loewe and Carolina Herrera hire craftsmen here. The most popular handbags, wallets and belts are born in the ugliction. But almost none of these designers do not want to talk about it.

Only a few craftsmen receive orders for bags, which then cost thousands of dollars. Major mass - consumer goods and inexpensive means of average quality: in ulting more than a hundred workshops on the manufacture of women's handbags and men's wallets, it has already historically became the main business in the city.

3 Such secrecy is caused by concerns that someone will copy the designs of expensive brands for the production of cheap products - and this is a cost problem for luxury brands. Each employee of such a factory signs a confidentiality agreement, it is impossible to photograph anything in the workplace, and some will hand over their storage phones before changing the shift. Designers are forbidden to use elements or product details to create their own models. Most likely, in compliance with the rules strictly followed, but no one prevents the use of accustomed experience and connect fantasy.

4 Some workshops have their own brands and even branded shops. They can find high-quality things from the skin for quite "funny" money in comparison with luxury handbag brands, while they will be made by the same hands. Not a copy, not fake, but a creative recycled model. But who is checkers, and who to wear?

5 Gathering on a trip to Andalusia, I decided to be on one of the leather factories: I wrote a few letters, and almost everywhere I received a refusal. We have secrecy, it is impossible in any way. Only one studio answered positively, where there is your own brand bags - El Potro. Many Masters Ubrowka today work only on pre-orders, and the Signora team Jorge Oliva (in the photo) makes the bags from beginning to end. We will not exclude the fact that in odd days they sew for Louis Wyitton, but it is impossible to talk about it. And show your own handbags - as much as you like.

6 So I learned that suede is the reverse side of the skin. Although in fact, everything is more complicated, suede for bags must be specifically selected, processed and impregnated, but in initially everything is so.

7 bags in the uglock began to do relatively recently, 150 years ago. Prior to that they were engaged in coarse work, torn skin, but then adapted to the manufacture of leather products, and this brought the city world glory. Spanish masters lost to the war to international corporations, and today it is the Italian brands in the world, but few people are thinking where they are actually made.

8 In the town, there are about one hundred family enterprises, the principle of production is more or less the same, although by each family - its secrets.

9 Each employee has its own zone of responsibility, one doubts the cut of the skin, the other makes the seat, the third gluits several flaps in the handbag. It would be foolish to sign every photo, and so it is clear what happens to them: just look and learn :)

10 Boxes with accessories.

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19 The most important tool of the Kozhevnik - Kiyzyanka. I saw how they work with the skin in Russia, for some reason it is customary to use large, almost building hammers, the Spaniards are delicate and very miniature hammer.

20 I imagine how many critics will now be that here is garbage and cheap (your favorite business blog commentators - all criticize everyone), but your expensive handbag (if you have it) did the same, and probably in the same workshop.

21Final barcode - tags, labels, certificate of compliance with European standards.

22 Bags are sent to the warehouse where it is stored until they are taken to the store.

23 In the Ubrowka, El Potro has its own "flagship salon", but in general their products are sold throughout Spain and Portugal, sometimes bags are found even in Russia and Ukraine, but the last few years of their collections are not delivered to us.

24 I recently showed you like. Most things in the world are now doing there, it does not matter what it is: clothes, electronics or luxury items. But over time, some industries return production to the old woman. For Spain and especially Andalusia, suffering from a long-term crisis and unemployment, this is the paddle for which you need to grasp.

25 I do not know how these Luvyuyotton and other diors, but the artisans of Andalusia do high-quality, and most importantly inexpensive things and try to support each other: in the store El Potro, except for their handbags, cool wool sheep wool scarves are sold on the same family factory in Neighbor Grasalem Province. So pay attention to small shops and family-friendly products in Europe, and not just on tourist streets with boutiques.

If I liked the post - put like and write a comment. And come tomorrow at 10 am - there will be a continuation about Spain!

Find out what popular brands in China are produced in China, and who sews in Russia and in Ukraine.

© Getty Images

finance.Tochka.net. I found out where clothes are popular among Ukrainians. Under the sight of journalists, the most common brands were included - both European and domestic.

Benetton

The country's foundation is considered to be 1960, the city of the foundation is Treviso (Italy). Founding the company Luciano Benneton together with his sister Giulianna. When Luciano was 18 years old, his sister Juliana tied him a bright yellow sweater, who attracted attention to the street, since in those years the knitted things could afford only wealthy elderly people, and their colors were dull. Therefore, it is not surprising that friends were jellied by a yellow sweater. Thinking that you can make money on sweaters, Luciano sold my accordion and bike to buy a knitting machine for which he traveled to Milan. The first sweater, who acquired from Benetton, one of the neighbors was heavenly blue. And the first collection of Sweaters Benetton, which was calculated only 20 pieces, was named Tres Jolie, which in translation meant "very cute" or "Millenko". A year later, the family began to sell 20 sweaters per week.

Today, Benetton stores are widely known. Men's, female and children's collections. Own brands of the company: United Colors of Benetton,Sisley. , PlayLife, Nordica, Prince, Killer LoopandRollerBlade.

Junker - Turkish brand youth clothing for men and women. Junker was established in Istanbul in 1991. Its activity began with several machines and the minimum number of employees. From the first day of foundation, the company took up the release of bright outfits at competitive prices. Thanks to this approach, after two and a half years, Junker has become the most fast-growing company in Europe.

Spanish manufacturer of male and women's clothing. The brand is owned by Inditex Group, which also owns brands such as: Massimo Dutti, Pull and Bear, Oysho, Uterqüe, Stradivarius and Bershka. Zara was founded in 1975 by the Spaniard of Amancio Ortega in the city of La Coruna. Before that, Amancio worked as a seller in the clothing store. In the first store Zara sold models of twins of famous brands.

In the early 1980s, Ortega began to look for new solutions: he wanted to produce more than 2-3 collections a year, as most brands did for that period. Instant Fashion from Zara scored such popularity that the day of delivery of the goods was called "Day Z", and the store's assortment was updated every 2 weeks. In this regard, buyers were forced to visit Zara stores more often, as the collections changed rapidly.

Mango - Spanish brand of fashionable female and male clothing. It was founded in Barcelona in 1984. His creators have become people from Turkey, two brothers Aizak and Nahman Andik. According to the idea, the brand Mango was intended for middle-income women who prefer to be bright and stand out from the crowd. Although the brand was originally and thought as a female, now the company also produces clothes and accessories for men.

Marks & Spenser

Marks & Spencer.- English brand of men's, female and children's clothing. The company is the largest British manufacturer of clothing, and is included in the top 50 world brands. Marks & Spencer Founder is a Jewish emigrant from Belarus Michael Marx, who in the English port of Hartlepul opened Marks Penny Bazaar, where at first sold various rubbing like pin and buttons. In 1884, Marx moved to live in Leeds, where fate and brought him with Thomas Spencer. Having become acquainted, they decided to unite their two business and found a new company on their base, calling her Marks and Spencer.

TERRANOVA.

TERRANOVA.- Italian brand of youth clothing, founded back in 1961. Mark appeared on the market thanks to Teddy S.p. Her founder and general director - Vittorio Tada. TERRANOVA. It is famous for a wide selection of casual wear, both for women and for men. Products are focused on young people who are following fashion and having medium wealth. Collections with the latest trends in the world of fashion have pretty good quality.

Ukrainian and Russian brands

Kira Plastinina.

Kira Plastinina. Born on June 1, 1992 in Russia, is the daughter of the famous Russian businessman Sergey Planlin, a major shareholder of the Vimm-Bill-Dann company. Drawing clothes began with young childhood, at first put dolls. And then somehow came to her father and asked if she liked to draw clothes, after the positive response of Kira, he began to invest money in the development of a network of studies. The first store opened in Moscow in 2007.

The plastiner pretended about $ 35 million to build a chain of stores in the CIS, and still as much to open stores in the United States. However, in the US, business did not meet himself and in 2009 announced bankruptcy. At the same time, stores are quite comfortable in the CIS countries. Kira itself calls his style - ART-Glamour-Sportlive-Casual.

Oggi. - a company for the production of women's and men's clothing by Russian designers from Peter. The company name chose, based on the Italian word "today." Today, clothing design is created in St. Petersburg and Paris.

Russian brand is mostly outerwear. Translated from the English word Savage means "savage", and in French means "unbridled". The company also owns brands: People, Lawine. The Savage brand appeared on the Russian market in 2000. At the beginning, the outerwear was sewn under this brand, thereby chose a niche like a warm clothing manufacturer.

Sela

The Russian-Israeli company for the production of women's, male and children's clothing founded by Boris Okobrod. SELA was founded in 1991. Then, being a St. Petersburg entrepreneur, Boris Ostobrod immigrated to Israel and founded in Tel Aviv the design agency, which made the design of clothes for local factories. After that, the own trademark was registered - Sela (translated from Hebrew means "rock").