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Mascara and ink mascara - this is a suspension of a certain dye in ... - inspiration, useful information and gallery. Acrylic Mascara VS Water-based Mascara - Comparative Overview

Mascara or ink? SEPTEMBER 10TH, 2014

Mascara - drawing material, black or color paint. In the modern market, the mascara is liquid, concentrated or dry, in the form of sticks or tiles. Make it from gas soot, alcohol solution, shellac, glycerin, sugar and a mixture of bile with an antiseptic. Mascara is applied when drawing and writing. Its main feature is considered a deep black color that have no analogues in watercolor. There is also a color mascara on organic dyes. In addition, the mascara is waterproof and not. The waterproof carcass includes an alcohol sollacium solution, which is soluble only with alcohol. Such a mascara allows you to create durable work.
Traditionally, it is believed that this material was invented in China, from where the eastern neighbors borrowed first, and later brought to Europe. However, there is information that in ancient Egypt there was a similar typewriter paint, made from the same soot and bees wax as glue. And in Rome, grape bones used for the manufacture of their ink.
The word "mascara" came to Russian from the German, which fell out of French and literally means "touch". Romantic, is it not true?! Light touch brushes with mascara to paper are created by masterpieces of fine art.



Chinese hieroglyph denoting this material consists of two: upper - black and lower - ground. Literally gets the "blackened earth", the most mascara in the form of sticks or tiles, thoroughly, with an admixture of water, is obtained by black liquid paint - ink.

Today ink and mascara are two material with different composition. In ink, more directly pigment, less solvent and a sufficient number of various viscosity modifiers, wettability, etc., providing the best adhesion. Thus, the ink is used more for writing and creating calligraphic compositions, they are denser of carcass.


The mascara is more suitable for drawing - it is very expressive and at the same time romantic material. It is a very plastic material, it can be created both fast draft sketches and serious works that require detailed studies. Especially love mascara graphics artists for its deep intense tone and the ability to create a wide range of gradations from light silver to brownish colors.



For the carcass it is better to use

Today I will show my feathers and different carcasses.
And let's compare what is the difference between three different black carcasses from each other and show how they paint what feathers.


At first I will tell you about those jars with a carcass that I have.
Let's start with the cheapest carcass (and ink) - these are products of Gamma and Koch-I-Nor, here they are:
Ink, I had only violet, for the Word shelf life was still released in May 2009, i.e. 4.5 years ago, then I just started trying drawing in a sea and buy first jars. She was still in good condition on my surprise, I did not try to draw it before.
I have also had a green mascara for a long time ago, for 4 years, as, the first such bubble, I accidentally poured on a notebook right on a pair than spoiled a notebook on analytical chemistry (by the way, the text did not suffer). Unfortunately, the mascara from Kin is green now another color (as far as I can judge in the store, transparent and more like that color that WinSor & Newton, but this is at first glance, I did not buy it, so I do not know how it looks on paper. I like this color more, the one was before.
Black, brown and white carcass. As far as I remember this acrylic mascara, and I always knocked me up the inscription about the fact that this mascara is highly resistant to water, but it is not immentable. Try to draw on top of this carcass watercolor, I have not become who tried - share the result. Brown color is pleasant, and black is black, white quickly settles and over time everything is worse and worse, and it is also slightly transparent when applied, so I prefer a white gel pen - more comfortable and faster.


Here you can see how these carcasses look on paper, brush, and below blur with water. On top of colored I draw white (see transparency yourself)


I'll still talk about the special form of a carcass, about which, for some reason, most of the drawing of which I know do not have any idea.
This is a latex mascara. It is the only one is definitely not washed. She has a few minuses: it is rarely finding where I find it where I find the time of shelf life already half (I had to throw it out, but this though it ended, but I bought it only in the spring and she writes), it is only black I saw), well, she obsessively sticks to Peru, she needs to immediately wash off, then he will have to scrape a knife.
The way it looks like on paper I have, but it is black and waterproof (when dries), ideal for the contour in watercolor.


Further I will tell you about expensive jars with a mastery from Winsor & Newton
I have this, the emerald lives for me for a long time and when I bought it that could not see how it looks on paper, the color was not at all what I expected. And in general, it is always with all your breath except black.
That truck that in small glass jars is considered to be in a carcass for artwork and is perfectly diluted with water (so they said in the store) And that truck that in big jars it is for calligraphy, but not finding among the artistic I needed red and brown, I didn't look at these, t . And the color in the jar was as it should, I did not try on paper and sorry about it.
The emerald mascara is not emerald, and something closer to turquoise, I like the blue (I do not have any complaints, very pleasant color).
But brown and red, what is it? Brown - nice redhead, and red with a raspberry tint!
By the way, how the mascara is divorced for calligraphy I liked more.

Always try on paper what the mascara looks like before you take it!



Well, the third type is Chinese carcasses for calligraphy. I have two. The first (in plastic packaging) I bought at the beginning of summer, but did not try, and I bought the second in St. Petersburg, because In Miroedova School, we used it and it seemed to me comfortable. I found this only somewhere in one place and already forgotten where, in Leonardo, something. And the one in a plastic jar goes in a box and sold with us everywhere. I can not compare in cost and ml.


But making this review faced with amazing:
1) The one that the glass use is more convenient, the one in the plastic has a spout for droplets and dip there with a brush or pen will not work.
2) But the mascul's praised school turned out to be at all black. I do not know whether it can be seen in the photo, but it is dark-dark gray and in brightness is inferior to the fact that in plastic (as well as carcasses from KOCH-I-NOR)



And now the second part: what I am writing and drawing.
Here it is my rich (though the handle holder jokes are three, and not one)

For a start, the most authentic and ancient invention: bamboo sticks. They for some reason I draw a little, but they are very interesting, the line can be different in thickness and you can do different effects). True, one of three was defective. Such, if desired, can be made independently from the bamboo and, probably, from the cane (it is growing in our latitudes. It will be necessary to try.

The very left is very thin, it is not often found, but it scratches the paper and keeps in itself very little carcass. I bought it once for biological entomologic purposes, it is convenient for them to sign sooo small label.
The old-good feather with an asterisk is most comfortable, 23 has a tip, but his line is fat, I liked another Chinese, there is a piece for more carcass.


These are Leonardt feathers and their numbers. Feather -400- already spoiled and does not draw, most of all I like blue Lieno -40-

That's all together:
I do not know how it turned out, but I have two stars, and №23 Already three.
Brushes with which I was drawing were in the previous review.


I also have a present, more, goose feather, but I did not use it for a letter or for drawing, sorry.


Casch is called paint prepared from soot with the addition of water and binder. Binding substances usually - shellac, gelatin, casein, synthetic resins. The view of the binder affects the stability of the carcass to water. A good mascara should be immeaved after drying, have a thick black color, easy to go with a pen or a rayfeder.


Distinguish the following types of carcasses:

Liquid

Alcohol (Indian Mascara) Mascara - Sozha in alcohol sollacium solution, waterproof.

Water mascara - soot in a glue solution (such as casein), after drying, has average waterproofability.

Latex (polymer) mascara - A very water-resistant carcass in the polymer solution is good for use as an outline under watercolor. The disadvantage is that it sticks greatly to Peru and need to rub it right away until the mascara has yet hardened.

Acrylic mascara - Pigment in a polymer solution. Essentially is a liquid acrylic paint.

Dry

Chinese dry mascara - soot with glue in the form of sticks or tiles. To work, the carcass stick is triturated with water. A good mascara is considered good, which gives a warm black tone as it were with a metal tint, in a smooth of homogeneous, is not washed after drying.

Concentrated

Mascara from casein binder and pigment, diluted with water before use. It has increased water resistance.

Since the classic mascara is made on the basis of black soot, the color mascara is a variety of liquid paints with mascara properties.



Water resistance

The poor-quality mascara can begin to get blurred by water after drying or it may have a longer lifetime expansive film resistant film. Inspection of the carcass is checked as follows: there are several lines of different thickness on the drawing paper. After the mascara is driving, the leaflet in the inclined position is placed under a plumbing valve for 1 minute. The waterproof mascara will not light up and does not flow.

What is the difference between ink mascara?

Ink is a liquid solution consisting of a dye (and not pigment) dissolved in the liquid. When writing ink penetrate into a small depth. Mascal consists of a pigment and a binder. When writing, it falls on the surface of the paper "film" and practically does not penetrate into the paper.

"Wash" in the architectural graph is - giving the volume with a gray tone of the diluted solution of the drawing carcass or black watercolor paint.

In the process of the washing, the parts of the figure or drawing darken, to the extent that the forms acquire clear volumes. This is done so that the customer clearly presented the future design (furniture, volumetric carving on furniture, architectural construction, parts of the stucco decor).

A classic method of washing - lesing. The divorced mascara on the drawing object is applied very thin transparent layers, each layer must dry before the next application. In this case, it is achieved by a special lightness, which is the result of saturation of one tone to others.

An easier method of washing is Alla Prima. The diluted mascara is applied into one layer on the drawing object, more saturated solution takes the shadows. Performed immediately at one reception (session).

Sometimes parts of the drawing are additionally tinted with color (illuminate) trees, lawns.

Expression "Washing" means "to perform an image that has a light look as if after washing with water." Architectural washing resembles a lightweight watercolor pattern on paper, if it was rinsed under running water (which often, at first, students make students with a strongly repainted watercolor work) - an intense tone is washed off, and the paint-absorbed paint is stored as a light pattern.

I decided to raise this temko here and suggest to leave my comments to all the knowledgeable, dismantling and simply not indifferent to people.
The post was made based on the materials of various Internet editions.

What the question was connected and why I decided to ask him. In fact, I was advocated for this, firstly, Chinese painting and kaligraphy, including carcass and watercolor, and ... it's not possible to buy Distress inkinet at the exhibition of the needlework formula. Moreover, in the top of the hockey for a wanderer's friend, I described that all the hieroglyphs drawn in mascara.
Docked in the mind these 3 things, I accidentally stumbled upon an art mascara of different colors.
We must start with the fact that it is necessary to determine the compositions of these carcasters and how they are divided (correct me if I am not right).
Translated from English ink - ink, mascara. We, as it is usually divided by these 2 terms. In English, I did not find much differences.

Mascara - There is a liquid, concentrated and dry in the form of sticks or tiles.
There is also the so-called color mascara (special variety of liquid paints)

Ink - Painting liquid used for writing or creating other images (in particular, many art techniques, grinding stamps).

There are 2 main directions in the carcass - mascara for calligraphy and car mascara.
Mascara for calligraphyperhaps I will not describe in each of the devices disassembled by me there is a series of Caligraphy.
Mascara artistic color.
It distinguishes one mascara from the other composition of the pigments of natural pigments (fewer colors), acrylic pigments (the palette is not limited).

Dilute mascara with natural pigments you only need to be distilled water. Dilution with conventional water will lead to decomposition of pigment.

What are the carcasses now in our market

1. Let's start with one of the most common brands Koh i-Noor.
That's what they write about their carcasses on the site: http://www.koh-i-noor.cz/en/art-Club/umelecke-Tuse

"The art mascara is aqueous pigment dispersion in a natural resin solution, it is designed for both beginners and professional artists. The quality of the carcass is comparable to the famous European brands - it is distinguished by high pigmentation, shades diamonds, water resistance and light-resistance. Maski mixed together, they Suitable for drawing with a brush and a pen. Machine is made from high-quality shellacaand first-class inorganic and organic pigments. Pigeons with the required light-resistance, cleanliness and resistance to the environment are supplied by leading European manufacturers.

Quality parameters (covering ability, light-resistance) are centered on boxes of individual tones. Before use, the mascara should be carefully stolen, because when the material is silent, a precipitate is formed, which is especially characteristic of white, silver and gold color. "In the palette of the palette of 14 colors, including gold and silver."

2. Art Mascara WinSor & Newton. http://www.winsornewton.com/products/inks/drawing-inks/

High-quality SENNELIER mascara based on natural components.

  • It is applied with a brush, a feature handle and even with an airbrush.
  • The mascara has a deep saturated color, bright intense shades due to the presence in its composition of the shellac.
  • It will quickly dry and resistant to water, however, it is not immentable. Ideal for calligraphy, painting with brush and pen, drawing and drawing on textiles. The drawing can be secured by a fixative for a pencil or pastels, which will only increase the light resistance of the paints.
  • All colors are perfectly mixed with water and among themselves.
  • All Colorines Colorines from Sennelier are well fixed with each other and form a matte film when drying. This mascara can be applied with a brush, a pepper handle or using an airbrush to such surfaces as a multi-layer paper, drawn cards, etc.
  • Colorines mascara is extremely easy to use, when working an airbrush gives an even transparent coating. It can also be used as a liquid watercolor for framing the picture.
    Sold with individual bottles or sets.

    Watch the drawings performed by the car.


Now I will say a few words about carcasses with acrylic dyes. I can not argue for sure, but I had the opinion that these carcasses belong to amateur.

FW PEARLESCENT 22 colors, pearl shades.

Mascara is good because it can be drawing in my opinion absolutely any tools. I will tell about what I tried or plan to try myself, but in particular about feathers, rapidographs, brushes and unconventional materials. About paper and mascara, I have already spoken a little, so I will not go deep.


The very first tool that was used for writing and drawing in mascara is a bird feather. Usually it was duck feathers, but when there was a need to draw a thinner line, the crows feather were chosen. The tip of the pen, pointed with a special knife, dipped into ink, and the hollow pole rod held enough ink in order to make several strokes. Now, of course, only aesthetes twitch with birds, only aistets, for the rest, invented a whole bunch of different metallic feathers.

There are feathers for writing, but there are feathers for drawing. Feather for writing compared to the usual graphic work has a wider tip. In general, there is a bunch of different features of feathers depending on the type of letter or drawing, I still did not understand it entirely and for myself I share feathers on 3 large groups - Bioette, pointed, and Rondo.

Bicycle feathers - The tip is like a small shovel. There are metal, cane, bamboo, bird and even wooden.

Pointed feathers - Looks like a spear of a medieval knight in miniature. Metal or feathers of birds are made, usually goose. These feathers are most often used for drawing.


Rondo - Metal feather. In calligraphy they write a drawing font when signing drawings and posters. At the tip, there is a "pancake", due to which the "ballpoint effect" is obtained - that is, a line of one thickness in any direction of the movement of the pen. Not a very good choice at all, I do not use it.


Also in every pen split and should be stewed.
In a pointed one split, and there are one or two in Bionent - it is affected by the width of the pen itself. Invented splits in order for the mascara or ink to be held between the edges of the pen, and glass on paper exactly through the pen tip in the required quantity.


Stewed (this such thing is put on the pen) is needed so that it does not have to be remembered to fill in the pen - with the help of this simple device you can write several letters for one refueling of the pen of ink.
Moreover, it is not recommended to inceate the pen itself into the inkwell - from this it is formed a unwanted influx of carcasses at the tip of the pen, and the reed feathers are quickly wears quickly due to the twinkling of their loose inner. It is necessary to fill in ink for the resulting space between the pen and stewed with a brush, which stands out specifically for this purpose.
I repeat once again that before the first use, the tip of the pen needs to be poured over the fire to remove the special composition that protects the pen from rust.

I'm drawing usually with a pointed pen, about this is the Japanese G Pen.

At the permissions, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of a sediment, since it directly affects the quality of the conducted lines. The feather is well cleaned by the usual rinsing in running water (from under the tap) the most important point of cleaning - first it is necessary to remove the feather; In particular, if the handle has a metal clamp for fixing. Metal is subject to corrosion: if you do not remove the pen, it is inevitably jammed in the clamp. After complete cleaning of the pen and the clamp, they should be wiped dry with a napkin or a piece of cotton fabric.

For feathers there are different holders. For example, such a letter CopperPlate for drawing is not suitable.

Our choice is such. Here is the usual holder from top to bottom (I have such), universal and for a subtle pen. The second is also suitable for thin feathers.


It is better that the holder is either plastic, either covered with varnish, so it will smack less and deteriorate. You need to pick up the holder under your hand, I often wrap the tape or put on rubber soft things with the handles so as not to be tired. By the way, it also adds weight, but it is more convenient for me to keep a heavier holder.

A lot of useful write about feathers in Wikipedia.


Now a little about the brush. From your experience I can say better to take brushes for calligraphy, they have a large range of line thickness. If there are no such synthetics, at the expense of its elasticity and stiffness, although in fact I met people who are writing a masterpiece of inkus, so that individual preferences and personal samples will be very useful. I personally comfortable synthetics still to wash it easier, and it is necessary to do it after each work. Synthetics is not afraid of soap, dries quickly and generally proposed. All my proteins, columns and other gentle animals do not hold mascara at all.

Separately, it is worth saying about Brushpen - this is a synthetic brush already with a tank with ink. I sometimes refuel the WaterBrush diluted ink, it is like something similar. Here, the main rule is that it is poured into cartridges and brushes should be either diluted or special, for fill in rapidographs and isograms, otherwise all your devices after drying are glued in and they will have to throw them out.

Now about the most mysterious - isograms and rapidographs. What is the difference between the isograf from rapidograf?
Some features of the design of the writing node and ways of refueling, but in practice - nothing. The rumor walks, as if the origin can be drawn under the tilt, and rapidograph is only strictly perpendicular to paper. In fact, both can draw under a reasonable slope. This is how the isographers look like.

And so rapidographs

Isographers and rapidographs are not the cheapest pleasure, and at the same time a capricious. They need to be cleaned and rinse at least once a month, following the instructions. And in no case disassemble more than the same instruction allows - otherwise they do not collect back! You can only refuel them with special inks for rapidographs, better than brand. Ordinary ink or mascara - the easiest way to spoil the tool. And they often deteriorate even by themselves, especially thin, from 0.1 to 0.25 mm, and one day refuse to draw. One of the reasons: the curvature of the tip or metal "thread" with a thickness of the hair, located inside the design on a weight loss. With its help, the ink is pumped into the steel tube of the tip, and from too active shaking it can be bought. Such a repair tool is not subject to repair at home.
By the way, the handle is so arranged from the inside.

Why buy dear and capricious tool? Is it possible to use gel, capillary handles or markers instead? Can. There are cases of taste and financial opportunities. But rapidographs write ink, close in quality and color to drawing carcasses, it is convenient to use them as an auxiliary tool in the drawing of the pen and ink, for example, in a manga. The main plus is the variants of the thickness of the lines. Israphs and rapidographs begin from 0.1 mm in diameter up to 2 mm and have about 15 gradations of thickness. The thickness of gel and capillary handles about 0.5 mm and rarely the other. Isographers and rapidographs give the same thin perfect line without drowshes and points that sometimes it can also be important

Liners are a good, cheaper analogue of insignes and rapidographs. I basically use them, and not gel handles, they give a more flat line without flutters, ink will not shine and do not blur with water, at least Faber Castell. Stabilo blur perfectly. However, they have little gradations of thickness compared to Items and Rapidographs, they quickly end and disposable.

I also wanted to mention several non-standard drawing materials. I have a rice glass pen brought by my mother from Israel. The pen is a beautiful believer tapering from the housing to the writing point. And ink is gaining in these very spiral grooves outside the pen. In my version, it scratched a little paper, which decided the grinding of the tip of the shallow sandpaper. The chip of such a stick is that it is gaining more ink than the usual, but does not have gradation of the thickness of the line.

You can draw wooden chopsticks and clins, dragging them at different angles. They give an interesting texture and line.

Interesting results can be obtained using sponges, cotton disks and cotton sticks - everything depends here only on your fearlessness and traction to experiments. You can also wipe the paper by sandpaper, combine with watercolor, gouache, glue - in general, complete freedom.

This is such a huge post, I tried not to miss anything and I would be glad to your comments on the tools that you use or want to try.
In the next post, I plan to tell a little about the technique of drawing ink.