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Turn-down flat collars. Construction of a pattern. How to make a round collar. We sew collars Do-it-yourself removable false stand-up collar

These decorations are again present in the haute couture collections presented at Fashion Weeks in Paris, London, Milan, New York, Berlin, Moscow, Barcelona... The only, perhaps, update of the trend is the emphasis on stand-up collars or stand-up collars . But Russian women, with less sharp and more pretty features, undoubtedly should not give up turn-down necklace collars and collars in the form of frills or a collar with a frill. In addition, they are crocheted, woven from beads, pearls and chains.

One of the reasons for the popularity of these decorations is that they are quite easy to make with your own hands at home, and in addition, they provide unlimited scope for the manifestation of creative imagination. But the main thing is that you make an original decoration that becomes the highlight of your chosen image.
Collar-necklaces can be of very different shapes, and they are also decorated in a variety of ways.

You will need:

  • sequins
  • Swarovski crystals
  • beads
  • large beads
  • untreated semi-precious stones
  • pearls
  • chains
  • lightning
  • blocks
  • rivets
  • buttons
  • tapes
  • braid
  • lace
  • brooches
  • coins
  • decorative fabrics.
By the way, the collars of shirts and dresses decorated with the elements described above are a separate issue. Removable necklace collars are considered super fashionable.
Our website already has a detailed step-by-step guide, following all the rules. sew a separate stand-up collar from a regular shirt.
In this master class, the edges of the collar are trimmed with scalloped braid; this is just one of the many options for starting the decor. Other braids and ribbons are also suitable for finishing the edges, for example, ready-made and hand-made ribbons with rhinestones, beads, beads sewn or glued on them, or narrow lace, or... in general, call on your imagination to help.
Next, we decorate the surface of the collar or sew a decorative brooch, button, rhinestone, etc. instead of a regular button on the collar stand.
In addition to the methods described above and below, the surface of the collar can be decorated with decorative buttons: to do this, you need to bite off the stems of the buttons, level the bottom surface and glue the buttons using a hot-melt gun.
If you have unnecessary stud earrings lying around, then you simply pierce the surface of the collar with them, and on the reverse side of it, bend the ends of the rods with pliers so that they do not scratch your neck.
Volumetric metal blocks are the hit of the season, especially with spikes. An ideal youth decoration for those who want to demonstrate their desire to isolate themselves from harsh reality.
The combination of delicate lace and pearls looks very gentle and romantic - perfect for a naive and youthful look.
Decor made from pieces of fur is also a fashion hit, even in summer. Of course, you can’t wear such a necklace on a hot summer day, but on a cool evening it can effectively complement an outfit.


Felt turn-down collar

Step 1



Using the template of a round turn-down collar (take a pattern from any Burda model that suits you or directly copy from and adjust to your size), cut out four parts from felt (see figure), onto which glue a variety of decorations using a heat gun. Felt will give the necklace the necessary rigidity.

Step 2



Next, you will need a strong chain, which must be glued along the inner edge of the collars, releasing the ends of the chain of the required length from behind to attach the necklace to the neck.

Step 3



Now glue the top parts of the collars on top. In conclusion, all that remains is to beautifully arrange the decor you have at home on the surface of the collar and glue it with a hot-melt gun.

Lace necklace collar with chain, rhinestones and bow


You will need:

  • four identical fragments of a chain with large links
  • small split rings, quantity = number of links of one chain or two, depending on the size of the links of the chain
  • decorative clasp for chains
  • finished ribbon with Swarovski rhinestones glued to it
  • lace braid
  • satin ribbon for bow.

Description of work



Connect 2 fragments of the chain with rings, passing them through each or every other link of the chain. Pass a ribbon with rhinestones through the rings.



On one side of the chains connected with ribbon, sew lace in a mirror image to form a collar. At the front, connect the chains with a lace bow made of satin ribbon.



Connect the chains at the back with a beautiful clasp.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will look at one of the most interesting and extensive topics in design - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it using rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our website, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern, you can even print it on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let’s start our “immersion” into the topic of modeling collars with the simplest and most understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand-up collars are built in the same way, sequentially, they just have different values ​​and line configurations. Collars can have rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end-to-end, more or less adjacent to the neck. The clasp can be located both at the front and at the back.

Let's now look at the construction of the stand-up collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand-up collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and plot this value along a straight line. To ensure that the stand does not move away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the closer the stand will fit to the neck). Now set the desired height of the stand (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our stand-up collar. Don't forget to keep the height of the stand constant! The blue reference notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will line it up with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand-up collar like on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the back neck minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the stand according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And we draw a beautiful stand! Also, don’t forget to check the height of the stand.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. This collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts into the stand-up lines.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the amount by how much one part of the shelf will overlap another). Usually this is about 2 cm for a central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to widen the neck of the front and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect the resulting points with lines (red).

We decide on the height of the stand. In the example with a one-piece cut stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder section it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back we set aside the height of the stand along the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition between the stand and the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we adjust the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw out the top cut of the stand, rounding it in front.

Now it's time to turn flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder dart on the back and the chest dart on the front into the armhole line - this way it is much more convenient to draw a flat collar. Now we place the back piece on the shelf, extending 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. We decide on the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Along the middle back seam we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), a little less along the shoulder seam (4.5 -5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has some item with such a collar. Most often they can be found wearing shirts. To simplify sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar like on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw a straight line for the length of the neck minus 0.5 cm. From one edge (where the middle back seam will be) to set the required bend of the bottom line of the collar, we set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the stand-up value (2. 5 – 3 cm), and the so-called “back width of the collar” (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (the values ​​may be different - it depends on the height of the stand and the width of the rise you have chosen). And we try to follow the pattern, draw out the collar!!! The stand can be either cut-off or one-piece (Figure 6).

Shawl cut collar. These collars are very impressive and are not labor intensive compared to jacket ones. The upper collar is cut together with the collar, which greatly simplifies the whole job. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we recommend starting with this model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as in the first model. First, let's set the width of the side to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, based on the model, you need to determine the depth of the cutout and place point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - put point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the collar inflection line (red). Now we measure the length of the back neckline and, using a compass from point a, make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the back neck.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c, tangentially, we plot the amount of the collar’s ​​offset plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the offset width is 6 cm, then the segment cd = 6.8 cm). We put point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, end the line at the neck - we get the bottom cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl's flap perpendicular to the lower edge of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last step is to draw a smooth line for the top cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's figure out what parts we finally got (Figure 8).

Picking. We need to draw an internal hem line to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and end at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. On a separate sheet of paper we transfer the part along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area where the hem transitions into the back facing (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer hem lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is cut off. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The front is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket collars. Such collars are made of four parts - lower and upper collars and two stand parts. Sometimes the racks are made one-piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below the chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the front. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with special care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be ruined.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first steps of construction are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a border 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm wide (for a central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the collar inflection line, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left and place point b. We decide on the desired depth of the neckline and draw the bend line of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the back neck - we put point c. Then from point c, tangentially, we plot the width of the collar at the back plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. Connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d we restore the perpendicular to line dа and on it we set aside, first, the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the departure lines of the collar, flap and lapel. To understand these concepts, pay attention to Figure 11.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look in the finished product, let’s draw it on the right side on the front detail (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. The base point of the opening is 3 cm down from the neckline along the inflection line of the collar. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this using tracing paper.

Now all that remains is to draw out the entire stand. We draw the upper cut 0.5 cm below the inflection line, leaving a width of 2 -2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting parts:

  • Picking. The shawl collar is drawn similarly. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
  • Collar (lower and upper). Copied completely with stand.
  • Shelf. We translate everything, just without the collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, varied and quite complex. So, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them at

Admin 2015-06-03 at 3:52 am

This new article is devoted to the design features of collars of various types and cuts, methods of their processing and connection with the neck. And with this post I’m opening a new section on my blog: 100 collars. I will fill it until I describe exactly 100 collars.

I don’t know if I’ll get that much in my memory - well, there’s the Internet - I’ll look there. And you, dear reader, will help, if anything. So send in your designs - I love understanding clothing designs.

Today I will describe the first collar - like this:

And I’ll tell you how I used perforated glasses for the first time today to improve my vision.

So, how many designs of collars are there, their shapes, sizes, processing methods and the number of included parts?

Studying the varieties of collars from fashion magazines, catalogs and simply samples of finished products, I always pay attention to what the shape of the collar depends on:

First, I look at the shape of the collar.

Second, I decide how it connects to the neckline (set-in or one-piece).

Third - how the collar fits to the neck - tightly, at some distance or even flat on the bodice.

And fourth - how the collar is connected to the clasp - whether there is one at all, whether the clasp is up to the top or to the bend of the lapel.

Structurally, the collar most often consists of an upper and lower collar part, as well as a gasket part.

In total, there are several varieties of collar cut: flat with different stand-up heights, set-in stand-ups (vertical and inclined), solid stand-ups with front and back details, shirt collars, collar-clips, turn-down collars with a stand-up in the middle, and collars for products with an open fastener: jacket type collars, shawl collars, apache type collars.

A lot, right? We will slowly consider all these designs in the following articles of this new column of mine.

Now let’s start with the simplest collars to design, these are:

Turn-down flat collars:

This is a collar that completely follows the shape of the neck and shoulder area of ​​the product - turn-down, flat-lying.

A distinctive feature of this collar is the absence of a stand. That is, the collar lies flat on the figure.

The pattern of such a collar is based on the basic basis of the front and back of the product.

The shape of such a collar varies depending on the shape of the neck.

The line of sewing the collar into the neck completely follows the contour of the neck of the product. The flying part of the collar can have a different shape - rounded or pointed edges, different collar widths.

The clasp in products with such collars can be either on the shelf or on the back. There may also be no clasp at all.

Let's consider the most common model of such a collar - round or, as it is now called "Peter Pan".

The pattern of such a collar is simpler than all others - directly based on the neck of the product.

In the drawing of the shelves, set aside 6 cm along the contour of the neck in order to outline the contours of the collar. The contour of the collar's departure is rounded to the center of the neck in front of a smooth line. The width of the collar is usually the same along the entire contour and varies depending on the model. In a child's dress 4 - 5 cm, in a woman's dress or blouse 5 - 6 cm, in a coat 7 - 10 cm or more.

On the back, along the contour of the neck, you also need to set aside the width of the collar, in this case 6 cm. If there is no fastener on the back, then the collar can have a seam located in the center of the back. If there is a fastener, then the collar along the back is not sewn, but is decorated with rounded lines. And thus, two parts of the collar are formed - left and right.

The design of the collar lines on the back should be done with a closed shoulder dart. This dart can be temporarily closed and transferred to the armhole, or it can be conditionally considered closed by extending the shoulder seam in a straight line from the neckline point towards the shoulder.

There should, of course, be no seam along the shoulder line on the collar.

The contour lines of the collar are copied onto a separate sheet of paper, combined along the shoulder seam line and a collar pattern is obtained.

For the collection, I offer slightly different neckline shapes, suitable for a flat turn-down collar, without a stand-up collar:

The algorithm for constructing a pattern for such collars is simple - we change the neckline according to the model, then draw the lines of the collar.

Using the open neckline as an example, I’ll note once again that the key changes in the neckline are its width and depth. And also the shape of the neckline on the chest - round or U-shaped:

The neckline of the next dress is formed similarly to the previous model, but there is also a Y-shaped neckline on the back. The shape of the ends of the collar is also different - they are not round, but sharp. The width of the collar is figured and gradually narrows closer to the shoulder.

Detachable collar - decorated with beads and rhinestones.

The neckline is designed in a boat shape, the right collar piece is overlapped with the left one, and then sewn into the neckline as one piece.

Let's continue the topic of collars in the next article -.

My reader and training group participant Tatyana sent me an interesting letter. Quote:

“Ellen, I see you are wearing plus glasses. My mother, who is over 70, restored her near vision in three months. Her eyesight has been good throughout her life. So, she is a “non-believing Thomas,” and until she checks it herself, she won’t believe it.

I bought her glasses with perforations, like “holes.” During this time, she read for an hour a day, looked at something on the Internet, and suddenly, once again, she puts on strong glasses, and they blur everything. She went and wiped them, but there was no result.

I put on other glasses, weak ones, which I hadn’t worn for a hundred years - and then I immediately began to see! Well, we moved on. This is already the second little man who, in my presence, began to see well up close - “far-sighted.” And the first grandmother, she is 80 years old, and she has restored her vision and reads small letters calmly. The witness herself is where it all started. But I’m myopic and I can easily watch movies in them. So if you are interested, as they say, this is the result first-hand.”

My vision really began to deteriorate - I can’t see well at close range. Without glasses I can’t even see the phone button.

Thanks to Tatyana - I bought these glasses today - they have perforations - these are small holes on... I wanted to say, on the glasses. But these are plastic “Glass”. In general, here is a photo of what these glasses look like:

And now I’m reporting on my impressions: (I bought it, by the way, at an optician. They cost 890 rubles.) I ask the seller - “How do they work?” She - “You can read the instructions.” And asks to put on these perforation glasses and read. I say: “I won’t see such small letters.” She says, “put on your glasses.”

Well, I put it on - I look and see! Small letters. I see! You can read directly through the perforation and letters and objects become sharper. But it’s unusual, really - the image seems to split into two and you have to somehow align it.

Now I’m writing these lines with new glasses. And what’s interesting is that when I was reading these instructions for the glasses, I tried to bring the text very close to my eyes - almost end-to-end - 5 cm distance - and it was still visible.

Today I spent about an hour in them in total. Then I took it off - and when reading my mail, I could see the text - although it was blurry, but I could read it without glasses at all. Marvelous! Are your eyes rested in these glasses? In general, I am a Thomas believer, so I will continue to study them.

I’ll write about the results if you’re interested. So, no don't miss it. And that’s all I have for today.

Detachable collars (or patch collars), which appeared last year, continue to gain popularity at incredible speed. Every second fashionista dreams of acquiring the desired accessory, but it is still difficult to find them in offline stores. But this is not a problem for a fashion craftswoman! You can make a patch collar with your own hands, and there are quite a few ways to do it.

DIY removable collars from an old shirt

This is the easiest way to create a patch collar. All you need is a shirt, scissors and any decorative elements (beads, sequins, stones, rivets, etc.). Interesting ideas can be gleaned from the photos and videos below.


How to sew a patch collar

This task is a little more difficult; to implement it you will need a pattern and fabric (most often leather is used). Initially, a pattern is drawn on paper, transferred to fabric, cut out, and then all the details are sewn together. The finished product is decorated with various accessories.





How to knit a detachable collar

Lace collars look very impressive - weightless, thin and graceful. You can make such a removable collar with your own hands using a crochet hook and thin threads, for example, cotton. For those who understand crochet techniques, I suggest you consider several patterns. (In principle, patterns of any lace motifs are suitable for knitting a collar.)

Openwork collar: diagram
Finished openwork collar



DIY lace collar. Option 2.

If you don’t know how to weave lace yourself, you can use a ready-made one. Photo instructions are attached below.

DIY collar necklace

This season, collars that look more like necklaces are especially popular. They are made of metal, stones and beads. It is quite difficult to create one at home. However, if you are proficient in beading techniques, you can experiment.




Detachable collars look great with dresses, tunics, blouses and any other clothing that does not have its own collar. It does not matter whether the turn-down collar lies on the fabric or on the bare body. Moreover, the latter option may be even more attractive.


It is best to wear a detachable collar with contrasting clothing. For example, a white collar with a laconic black sheath dress will look very impressive. This look does not require additional accessories. And in general, if you have a richly decorated detachable collar, it is better to refuse additional bright accessories. The exception is modest monochromatic models, devoid of any decor; such collars can easily exist with massive and bright decorations in one set.

If you have chosen a collar style, then you need to cut it out and sew it, and then sew it correctly onto a blouse, dress or shirt, this is especially important if the collar is under . The processing method and sewing method depend on the shape of the collar. Collars are always made double, for this they are immediately cut out on the fabric in two layers, but the collar should be 3mm smaller at the bottom and the toe line, this is done so that the corners of the collar do not bend upward. Sometimes, to make the collar firm, a padding is inserted into it; when sewing, the corners of the padding are cut off to avoid thickening, then the corners will turn out well and be sharp. When we baste the collar, we will add an additive in the corners, and for round collars we will add an additive on the curves.

If the collar is round, it can be sewn immediately, other styles with sharp corners are sewn in three passes. We start by stitching the sides and make the shape of the corners the same. Then the collar must be smoothed out and one side of the seam folded over to the lower collar, the corners cut off and turned towards the collar. After this, we sweep the collar 0.5 cm from the edge and mark its middle.

The collar can be sewn using several methods, the method depends on the shape of the collar and the quality of the fabric. You can sew the collar directly to the fabric, to the neckline of a blouse or dress, or you can use bias tape. To sew a collar adjacent to the neck, we will do this: we will apply the sewn collar with its upper side to the underside of the neck of the product and stitch, notch and iron the seam, bending it towards the collar. Fold the free edge of the lower collar by 0.5 cm and tuck it behind the machine stitches so that it is unnoticeable. If the blouse or bodice of a dress has a fastener in the front, at the edges of the collar, you need to make notches, which we will tuck in and close with hidden stitches. We sew turn-down collars together with the lining, placing the collar between the neckline and the lining.

Collars can be sewn to the neck of a blouse or dress using bias tape. It is applied to the neck along with the collar. We baste collars with bias tape to the product, aligning the middle of the collar with the middle of the back neckline, aligning the ends along the sewing line with the middle of the front. Fold the collar to the wrong side along the fastener allowance line and baste the bias tape equal to the circumference of the neck and neckline. Then we sew the collar, neck fabric and bias tape. Now we fold the collar inside out of the product and baste it along the stitching line and along the edge of the binding to the product, sew the free cut of the binding to the product with an invisible seam.

The tendency to wear a separate collar on top of clothes is far from new; since the Middle Ages, fashionistas and fashionistas have paid great attention to starched stand-up collars and demonstrated neat overhead collars.

Modern needlewomen, lovers of original things and exclusive accessories, have gone much further in their imagination and skill, thinking about how to sew a collar. In many ways, talented designers come to the aid of modern accessories and an endless variety of handicraft products. Therefore, making invoices today is not so much difficult as it is exciting and interesting.

How to sew a collar will be interesting not only to a professional designer, but also to a novice amateur. By performing this detail using different techniques, you can independently choose the level of difficulty and try to create a cute gift for yourself for your loved one.

Well, let's look at how to sew a collar and what variations there are.

One of the methods, the simplest and fastest, is to decorate a ready-made collar from an old shirt to your taste. A classic shirt with a stand-up collar works well for this.

So, you need:

Find a shirt that matches the color and style,

Carefully cut off the collar from the main part of the product,


Process the cut edge by hand or by machine - the basis for creativity is ready,


Now the fun begins - decorating the collar and transforming it with the magical movements of your hands into a work of art and a beautiful elegant accessory.


There are an infinite number of options: you can play on contrasts, you can design the collar in one color scheme, playing on the play of halftones of the material with which you decided to decorate. It can be beads, large pearl beads, rhinestones, small and large sequins, handmade or cross stitch. You need to imagine what clothes you are going to wear with the finished product. With or as an addition to an everyday pullover.


The next option is a little more complicated, it involves how to sew a collar yourself.

To create your own from scratch, do the following:


Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar. Correct the cuts at the junctions and indicate the direction of the warp thread
Figured stand, one-piece cut with shelf and back
This model with a figured one-piece stand looks especially impressive. Thanks to such original details, the product takes on a fashionable ease.

Cut the front from the neck to the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the bust dart; Transfer 0.7 cm of the chest dart solution to the neckline to increase it, and temporarily transfer the remainder of the solution to the waist.

For this one-piece collar, widen the neckline of the front and back along the shoulder by 2 cm; deepen the neckline in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm and in the middle of the back by 1 cm. Draw a new neck line, on the back - at a right angle to the middle line. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back

From the top of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the stand - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set off the height of the stand along it - 4.5 cm.

Draw the top cut of the post. Draw a collar on the shelf in accordance with the model (see drawing).

From the middle point of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades
Details of the cut of the figured stand


Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades. Move the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the stand.

After transferring the dart to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the dart, this will further expand the collar at the back. Shorten the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the back neckline.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut line of the collar. Correct the cut lines at the junctions and indicate the direction of the warp thread
Stand, solid cut with shelf
This model shows the construction of a stand, cut entirely with only a shelf. The advantage of this type of collar is that you can change the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar by changing the angle of the back of the collar.

Connect the sides of the chest dart and temporarily transfer the solution to the side line.

Extend the neckline along the shoulder of the shelf and back by 1.5 cm; deepen the neckline by 1 cm in the middle of the back. Draw a new neckline on the back at a right angle to the center line

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the extended neckline only on the shelf. Extend this auxiliary line by an amount equal to the length of the new back neckline.

From the last point obtained, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line 1 cm long (for this model). The greater this value, the greater the angle of inclination of the back of the collar, the greater the length of the line of its upper cut and, accordingly, the less the collar fits to the back of the neck.

Draw a line for the lower cut of the stand-up collar on its back. At right angles to the resulting line, draw the center line of the rack.

From the top of the widened neckline of the front, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line, along which set aside the height of the stand - 4 cm. Set aside 4.5 cm along the center line of the collar. Draw a line for the upper cut of the collar.
Details of the cut of the stand, one-piece cut with a shelf


Copy the collar, completely cut out with the inside of the collar, from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar.
Stand, one-piece cut with shelf and back and shawl lapel
Based on solidly cut stand-up collars, you can design a variety of models, using different shapes of the neck, sides, lapels, etc. In the model presented below, the stand-up collar turns into an original lapel, reminiscent of a shawl collar.

Cut the front from the neck to the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the chest dart, transfer 0.7 cm of the chest dart solution to the neckline to increase it, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to the waist.

For this collar, widen the neckline of the front and back along the shoulder by 1.5 cm; deepen the neckline in the middle of the back by 1 cm. Draw a new neckline on the back - at a right angle to the midline.


Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the neckline of the front and back.

From the tops of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the stand - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the stand along it - 4.5 cm.

Parallel to the middle of the front, draw a line for the edge of the edge and the bend of the lapel, mark the location of the buttons. Decorate the lapel and collar sections.

From the middle point of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades. This line is needed to transfer the dart solution to the upper cut of the collar on the back and to lengthen the upper cut.
Shawl lapel stand detailing


Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades. Move the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the stand.

After transferring the dart to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the dart, this will further expand the collar at the back.

Shorten the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the back neckline.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar.

Correct the cuts at the junctions and indicate the direction of the warp thread.
Cutting stand in a product with lapels
Cut-off stand-up collars in products with different lapel options always look unique. If the expansion of the neckline on the front and back along the shoulder line is significant or the size of the collar on the front is very different from the size of the collar on the back, then you should copy the front part of the collar and use it when constructing a cutting stand.

Expand the neck along the shoulder of the shelf and back by 2.5 cm, deepen the neck in the middle of the shelf by 4.5 cm and in the middle of the back by 1 cm. Draw a new line for the neck of the shelf and back.

Draw a line for the edge of the side parallel to the middle of the shelf. Draw a fold line for the lapel and mark the location of the buttons/loops. Draw the contours of the lapel and collar on the shelf.

Construct a cut-off stand-up collar based on a right angle. To do this, measure the length of the new neck of the shelf and back and plot the resulting value along a horizontal line from the starting point. From the resulting point, set aside 3 cm vertically to determine the amount of rise in the front part of the collar and draw the lower section of the stand.

The height of the collar along the center line is 4 cm. Copy the front part of the collar from the front drawing and combine it with the collar drawing (shaded area on the collar drawing). Finish the design of the collar sections.
Cutting details of the cutting stand in a product with lapels


Copy the collar and collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar. Increase the size of the outer part of the stand-up collar by the amount of the edge of the facing seam.

Correct the cuts at the junctions and indicate the direction of the warp thread.
Cutting stand built on a greatly enlarged neck of the shelf and back
If the product model has a greatly enlarged neckline and a high stand-up collar, then such a collar is first drawn on the front and back, then the constructed parts of the collar are copied and combined to obtain a separate collar part. This way, a collar is obtained, the shape of which is adapted to the model neck of the product.

Connect the sides of the chest dart, temporarily transfer the solution to the waist.

The shoulder length of the shelf and back in this model is 2 cm. Draw a line for the model neck in accordance with the drawing. This line is also the bottom cut of the collar.

At a right angle to the bottom edge of the collar upwards, draw a line corresponding to the line of the middle flange on the collar, 7 cm long. Parallel to this line, draw the contours of the collar clasp.

At right angles to the lower cut of the collar from the shoulder of the front and back, draw the sides of the collar parts, 7 cm long.

Extend the middle line of the back upward and set aside the height of the stand along it from the model neck - 7 cm. Draw sections of the stand-up collar through the resulting points.

Cutting rack details


Copy parts of the collar from the back flange, align them along the lines of the sides - you have obtained a detail of one part of the collar. Copy this part of the collar and draw the allowance for the collar fastener in the form of an angle.

Correct the cuts at the junctions and indicate the direction of the warp thread.
Cutting stand of a soft shape, cut on the bias, in a product with lapels
For this model, the stand-up collar is cut out in one piece along the top edge in the form of a rectangle. The collar is cut in the oblique direction of the warp thread. When the finished collar is sewn into the neck, its lower sections are slightly stretched. Thanks to this, the collar curves beautifully around the neck. The length of the lower cut of the collar is determined in the drawing.

Connect the sides of the chest dart, and temporarily move its opening to the side line.

The shoulder length of the shelf and back for this model is 2 cm. Draw a line for the edge of the side at a distance of 8 cm from the middle of the shelf. Draw a model neck in accordance with the drawing.

Draw on the front the contours of the collar and the figured insert of the front, cut out in one piece with a lapel and hem. Draw the back of the collar on the back in accordance with the drawing. The height of the stand-up collar is 7 cm.

Measure the length of the upper sections of the collar parts on the front and back.
Cutting details of the soft-shaped cutting stand


This stand-up collar is cut in the oblique direction of the warp thread, one piece along the flight, in the form of a rectangle. The length of the lower cut of the collar is equal to the length of the upper cut of the parts of the collar on the front and back, which is measured in the drawing.

Copy the figured shelf insert, completely cut out with lapel and hem, from the drawing and mirror it relative to the fold line. Connect the sides of the bust dart.

Correct the cuts at the junctions and indicate the direction of the warp thread.