Tajik folk clothes. Tajik national costume. Outerwear for women

26.09.2019

"National Accent"

National clothes are also an expression of the identity of each people. Today's story is about the Tajik traditional costume.

In Tajikistan, each of the districts has its own national costume. In terms of cut, it is approximately the same everywhere, but differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of jewelry.

Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but the national Tajik costume is still very popular among rural residents.

Tajik men's and women's national clothes are very similar in cut - tunic-shaped, loose, well hides the figure. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessive fitting in clothes.

Tajik national clothes are distinguished by brightness. The costume of Tajiks reflects the degree of well-being. The more luxurious the outfit, the more expensive decorative details it contains, the richer its owner.

Separately, it should be said about the fabrics. Tajiks live in a hot climate, so they prefer cotton and silk fabrics. Purely national Tajik matters include alochu(iridescent striped fabric in different colors, made of cotton and silk), snipes(semi-silk, striped or patterned) and brocade(silk fabric with gold and silver threads).

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the bottom layer of clothing is usually made from cheap fabric, and the top layer is made from more expensive.

National clothes of Tajik men

The traditional costume of a Tajik man includes: a cotton shirt - "kurta", trousers, a dressing gown and a wide waist belt. The shirt is sewn from one piece of fabric. It is wide and does not restrict movement. Men wear it loose, gird it with a long narrow cloth or a special scarf folded diagonally. The scarf performs several functions: it is both a belt that supports trousers, and a kind of pocket.

It is interesting that you can learn about the well-being of a man from the belt. So, young poor guys wore belts twisted from square scarves with embroidery on the edges of the “miyonband” or “belbog”. And wealthy men could afford wide velvet belts (“kamarband”), embroidered with gold thread.

Trousers(“ezor” and “ishton”) are also sewn quite wide, but tapering towards the bottom. Men put on a robe over their shirts. chapan") swing free cut, usually striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with an embroidered ornament on the collar.

The bathrobe can be quilted, if it is a winter version of clothing. Classical chapans have become museum exhibits, and their place has been replaced by modern analogues made of velvet. The main advantage of the classic chapan is that it retains heat in winter and coolness in summer. Since ancient times, men have been given a chapan for important events - weddings, birthdays and even funerals. At the wedding, the bride's brother will not allow her sister to enter the husband's house until the groom's relatives give him a chapan.

And today, in the 21st century, young Tajiks on the first day after the wedding go out to people in chapans, and not modern suits. But in ordinary life, modern men are increasingly combining traditional clothes with European ones. For example, they can wear bloomers with a jacket or a chapan and dress pants.

Women's national clothes of Tajiks

Traditional Tajik women wear long shirt dresses ( kurts) and loose-fitting double-layer bloomers. Shirts with sleeves expanding towards the bottom are decorated with embroidery and have different names depending on the type of collar. In the old days, gussets (inserts, wedges) of a different color were sewn into such shirts, this had a magical meaning and, by giving it, provided the woman with fertility.

The shape of the neckline depended on whether the Tajik woman was married: young girls wore dresses with a horizontal neckline and ties at the ends of the slit. And after marriage, women began to wear dresses with a vertical neckline, decorated with embroidered braid. As underwear, women wore white dresses with a stand-up collar. At the same time, the cutout of the top dress was such as to show the embroidery on the collar, but nothing more.

The outerwear of women is a quilted robe (tsoma) of the same tunic-like cut as that of men, or a munisak, which is slightly different in cut (there is no sewn collar, and there are gathers under the sleeves). Older women, starting from the 19th century, wear munisaki without braid and lining, they are simply hemmed with a narrow strip of fabric of a different color.

Separately, it should be said about the burqa ("faranji"). Tajik women wore them mainly in cities where there were many strangers. The paranja symbolized purity, chastity, modesty and fidelity. Today it is an indispensable attribute bride's attire. In addition, it is believed that the veil protects a pregnant woman from dark forces. And, finally, such an element of the costume allowed a woman to feed her child even in public.

Tajik headwear

Male headdress - skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap their heads with a woolen scarf. A turban is also still popular, which is worn over a skullcap or a “kuloh” hat.

Women traditionally cover their heads with a headdress of three components: turbans, hats and “lachaka” - a kind of scarf. Sometimes these elements can be used separately from each other.

The head of the bride is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women have begun to wear skullcaps (totsi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik shoes

For Tajik townspeople - both men and women - soft boots "makhsi" are habitual shoes. They were worn with leather earpieces. Quite popular were ichigi (light boots with a soft toe and a hard back), made of goatskin and famous for their durability.

The villagers had a more varied selection of shoes. In particular, both men and women, in addition to light shoes, wore high-heeled boots or wooden shoes with three legs, the so-called “kafshi chubin”.

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successful in combining traditional jewelry with modern ones. Women are very fond of wearing necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. It can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry is forged and chased, made of silver, and is distinguished by some massiveness. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

Do Tajik men wear jewelry? At different periods of history, Tajik men in some regions wore beads with pendants along with women. Previously, men also wore headbands and earrings, they indicated belonging to a certain ethnic group and the status of a person in society. Today only women wear jewelry.

This is, in general terms, the national dress of the Tajiks. Nowadays, it has certainly undergone changes, but traditional skullcaps, bloomers and shirts of various colors are still very loved by Tajiks, including young people.

The government of modern Tajikistan popularizes the traditional Tajik costume in a very peculiar way - representatives of ministries are regularly called upon to tighten control over the wearing of national clothes among employees and prevent propaganda of alien - European - clothing. Special fashion shows and competitions for fashion designers are actively held in the country. And the leading state TV channels go on the air in stylized Tajik clothes.

In Tajikistan, each of the districts has its own national costume. In terms of cut, it is approximately the same everywhere, but differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of jewelry. Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but national tajik costume is still very popular among the villagers.

Tajik men's and women's national clothes are very similar in cut - tunic-shaped, loose, well hides the figure. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessive fitting in clothes.

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the lower layer of clothing is usually sewn from cheap fabric, and the upper layer is made from more expensive.

National clothes of Tajik men

It is interesting that you can learn about the well-being of a man from the belt. So, young poor guys wore belts twisted from square scarves with embroidery on the edges of the "miyonband" or "belbog". And wealthy men could afford wide velvet belts ("kamarband"), embroidered with gold thread.

Trousers("ezor" and "ishton") are also sewn quite wide, but tapering towards the bottom. Men wear a robe over their shirts. chapan") of swing free cut, as a rule, striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with an embroidered ornament on the collar.

Women's national clothes of Tajiks

The outerwear of women is a quilted robe (tsoma) of the same tunic-like cut as that of men, or a munisak, which is slightly different in cut (there is no sewn-on collar, and there are gathers under the sleeves). Older women, starting from the 19th century, wear munisaki without braid and lining, they are simply hemmed with a narrow strip of fabric of a different color.

Separately, it should be said about the veil ("faranji"). Tajik women wore them mainly in cities where there were many strangers. The paranja symbolized purity, chastity, modesty and fidelity. Today it is an indispensable attribute bride's attire. In addition, it is believed that the veil protects a pregnant woman from dark forces. And, finally, such an element of the costume allowed a woman to feed her child even in public.

Tajik headwear

Male headdress - skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap their heads with a woolen scarf. A turban is also still popular, which is worn over a skullcap or a kuloh hat.

Women traditionally cover their heads with a dress of three components: turbans, hats and "lachaka" - a kind of scarf. Sometimes these elements can be used separately from each other.

The head of the bride is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women have begun to wear skullcaps (totsi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik shoes

For Tajik townspeople - both men and women - soft boots "makhsi" are habitual footwear. They were worn with leather earpieces. Quite popular were ichigi (light boots with a soft toe and a hard back), made of goatskin and famous for their durability.

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successfully combine traditional decorations with modern ones. Women are very fond of wearing necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. It can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry - forged and chased, is made of silver, and is distinguished by some massiveness. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

The government of modern Tajikistan popularizes the traditional Tajik costume in a very peculiar way - representatives of ministries are regularly called upon to strengthen control over the wearing of national clothing.

hopes among employees and not to allow propaganda of alien - European - clothing. Special fashion shows and competitions for fashion designers are actively held in the country. And the leading state TV channels go on the air in stylized Tajik clothes.

"TAJIK NATIONAL COSTUME" The project is a study of a student of the 4th "a" class of the Moscow State Educational Institution of the Secondary School of the S.p.p.

Introduction My work is devoted to the study of the national Tajik costume. This topic intrigued me unexpectedly. I myself was born in Tajikistan in the city of Dushanbe. My dad is a military man and he was transferred to serve in Nalchik, in a military town. Everything here surprised me. People in the city dress in a modern way, you will not see anyone in national costumes at all. And in my homeland, many people always wear their national costume. Recently, at a drawing lesson, we drew national costumes of Kabardino-Balkaria. And then the idea came to me to tell about my national costume. After all, he is also very bright and beautiful.

My main goal is to acquaint classmates with the Tajik national costume, to tell about the history of the world-famous Tajik atlas. My hypothesis is that although the traditional clothes of Tajiks differ depending on the area of residence, they have common features. The methods that I used include the following: my observations, stories of my relatives, analysis of Internet publications on this topic.

Women's Tajik costume. Women dressed in spacious dresses made of smooth fabrics. In the mountainous southern regions, especially in Darval and Kulyab, dresses were richly embroidered and were examples of folk decorative art. The costume was complemented by wide bloomers with a slouch at the ankles. Headdress - scarves, skullcaps. Townswomen and lowland Tajik women wore a swing robe and local shoes. The mountain women did not have bathrobes. Traditional jewelry - necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings, rings.

The women's costume, in terms of the composition of the obligatory elements, was similar to the men's, it was also made up of a shirt ("kurta") and trousers. The women's shirt was cut in the same way as the men's, but unlike the latter, it was much longer and was decorated with rich embroidery. "Kurta" could be both monophonic and bright, multi-colored, decorated with a pattern. Women's harem pants were usually sewn from two types of fabric: the upper part was made of cheaper, cotton - pleasant for the body and "breathable", and the lower part, which is visible from under the shirt, was made of elegant and more expensive fabric. Bloomers ended with a beautiful braid that tightened around the ankle.

Tajik women did not have outerwear at all, in the cold they were ordered to stay at home. However, if it was necessary to go outside, they simply put on a few dresses, and on top they put on a quilted robe, made like a man's. Leaving the house, each woman had to put on a special kind of cape - a veil ("faranji"). It was a stylized robe-bag with sleeves folded and sewn behind the back, in front of the burqa it was decorated with a black hair net (chachvan).

Modern Tajik clothing combines traditional elements - an overcoat, a skullcap with urban clothing. Tajik women retain more traditional elements of clothing. Girls and young women mostly wear a yoke dress, which is widespread in Central Asia (except for Turkmenistan). Bloomers are already sewn, in young women the ankles are much higher. Traditional jewelry is combined with modern: necklaces, pendants, earrings, rings.

Men's Tajik costume Men wore a tunic-shaped shirt, trousers with a wide step, a swinging robe, a scarf belt, a skullcap, and a turban. Shoes were leather boots with soft soles, leather galoshes with a pointed nose (they were worn separately, sometimes worn on boots), in mountainous areas - shoes like clogs with three spikes on the sole for ease of walking along mountain trails. In modern Tajik clothing, traditional elements (overcoat, skullcap) are combined with urban clothing, and in women's clothing, national elements still dominate today.

So, for the male set of the mountainous, or lowland population, they were characterized by: a wide shirt - "kurta" made of cotton fabric, trousers - trousers, a dressing gown worn on top, a waist scarf and a headdress - a skullcap. The shirt was usually sewn from one piece of fabric, folded over the shoulders and cut in the middle for the neckline. The sides and sleeves were simply sewn to the base. It turned out a wide, not restricting movement product, called among ethnographers - tunic.

Trousers - bloomers ("ezor") were sewn wide, not restricting the step from above and narrow to the bottom. The shirt was worn loose, belted with a diagonally folded waist scarf. It should be noted here that the scarf, in this case, served as a belt and pockets at the same time, supporting the trousers and making the long shirt more functional. Right over the shirt they put on a dressing gown (“chapan”), swinging, straight cut. For the summer, its light version was provided - without lining, for the winter - more dense, on wadding, which had a quilting over the entire field of the product. Dressing gowns, as a rule, were sewn from striped (stripes along) or colored cotton fabric.

The inhabitants of the mountainous regions preferred to wear "chapans" made of undyed homespun wool, the collar of which was decorated with an embroidered ornament. Highlanders' wardrobe was complemented by high stockings ("jurab") knitted with colored thread, on which they put on shoes made of rawhide with soft soles - caryks ("choruk").

The inhabitants of the plains put on their feet soft high boots-stockings made of dressed leather - "makhsi", into which trousers were tucked, and when leaving the house, leather galoshes were put on them directly. In everyday life there were also leather boots with a heel and a curved nose, used for riding.

The headdress for Tajiks has always been a skullcap, which was a low conical cap, intricately decorated with embroidery, the pattern of which, better than any document, indicated the origin and place of residence of the owner. Plain Tajiks also wore a turban over a skullcap. By the 20th century, a flat square skullcap, black with white embroidery, came into fashion among Tajiks, which was called “chusti”, after the place of its manufacture in the city of Chust. Women who had previously used only a scarf as a headdress began to wear it willingly.

From the history of the emergence of the Tajik atlas The first mention of this matter dates back to the 2nd century AD, during the time of the Great Silk Road. But nothing specifically, specifically about the pattern of this matter, is not said anywhere. I asked my grandmother where such a wonderful drawing came from, and she told me such an old legend: “In ancient times, one of the rulers of Margilan decided to marry for the fifth time. His choice fell on the young daughter of a poor weaver. Frustrated, the girl's father threw himself at the feet of the old khan, begging him to back off from the girl. The Khan replied that he would fulfill the request of the poor man if he created something so extraordinary by the next morning that it would make the Khan forget about the beauty of the girl. The saddened weaver sat on the bank of the canal, not knowing what to do next. And suddenly - I saw in the water the reflection of clouds, painted, after the last rain, in all the colors of the rainbow. “Oh heaven, thank you for the idea!” he exclaimed and ran home to immediately get to work.

In the morning, he wove an extraordinary fabric in the image of what he saw - light and airy like a cloud, cool, like pure mountain air, and shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. When the master brought this extraordinary fabric to the khan, he was shocked by its magical beauty. “How did you do it?” he asked the weaver. To which the weaver replied: “I took the greenery of the foliage washed by the rain, added the color of tulip petals, the blush of the dawn, the blue of the night sky, the glare of the sun on the fast-flowing water of the canal, the sparkle of my beloved daughter’s eyes, and mixed everything up.” The unusual fabric was called “khan-atlas” (“khan silk”), and the khan gave the weaver’s daughter as a wife to his beloved son.”

The project took 3rd place in the II Republican competition of research works and schoolchildren's projects "First steps into science"

DUSHANBE, November 30 - Sputnik. In Tajikistan, they decided to offer women sketches of national clothes that they can wear in any weather.

Experts from three departments worked on the development of models of outfits - the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tatarstan, the Committee for Women and Family Affairs, and the Committee for Youth Affairs under the Government of the Republic of Tatarstan.

Such an initiative, as noted, was undertaken to promote national dress, and prevent the spread of foreign culture in the country.

For some reason, the authorities of Tajikistan show such concern only in relation to women, but in the pre-revolutionary past, the turban and chapan were included in the daily and official uniform of Tajik men.

Rejection of the European

Alien is not only female. Therefore, it would be necessary to facilitate the task of the three initiative departments of the country and to consider in advance possible models of national clothes for Tajik men, and for all seasons.

But since people in Tajikistan do not quite like European things, they will have to go back to the past, when everything in Central Asia was exclusively national. When, for example, the movement Jadidism ("innovation", - ed.) did not have time to spread, its representatives at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries tried to borrow and use the fruits of European culture.

So, long before that, the basis of the clothes of civil servants, teachers, merchants and even an ordinary farmer included a tunic-shaped shirt (yaktah), trousers with a wide step (ezor), a swinging robe (chapon, ҷoma), a scarf belt (yakkaband), skullcap (toқӣ, kuloҳ), turban (salla, chakkaband), leather boots with soft soles (makhsi), leather galoshes with a pointed nose (kafsh), in mountainous areas - shoes with three spikes on the sole for easy walking along mountain paths (kafshi chubi ).

The traditional clothes of Tajiks had their own characteristics in each of the ethno-cultural regions, and the rich look of the outfit depended on the status of the man. For example, the last emir of the Emirate of Bukhara, Sayyid Mir Muhammad Alim Khan, wore robes made of expensive fabrics trimmed with gold threads, as well as headdresses with precious stones. An ordinary farmer could only afford clothes made of cheap cotton fabric.

Thus, if we fast forward to our time, now in winter days, for example, for the ministers of Tajikistan at the very time there would be traditional Tajik quilted chapans made of velvet with a shawl collar, a warm cashmere turban or astrakhan hat, as well as insulated leather boots with a pointed nose. This purely Tajik outfit, in favor of which they would refuse strict suits and coats, would clearly show their respect for Tajik culture.

And students, whose white socks, according to a number of local media, find fault with in the country's universities, could, for example, wear a light linen shirt with trousers in the spring, according to a sketch of national clothes for men. On rainy days, they could throw on a swinging robe and tie the belt tightly with a floral embroidered handkerchief. And they would replace white socks with poitoba (onuchi) - a ribbon-like cotton fabric that is wrapped around the foot and lower leg.

It is too expensive

But there is one thing: adras, satin, silk, cashmere and velvet, which are so often used in traditional men's attire, are the most expensive fabrics. Today, of course, not everyone can afford such a luxury.

A meter of panne velvet, for example, in the markets of Dushanbe costs 1,000 somoni (about $111), while chiffon and silk, important fabrics for men's bows, cost from 300 to 1,500 somoni ($30-167).

Sewing a national costume from these fabrics will cost Tajik men no less than the cost of the material itself. After all, not everyone will take on such a capricious fabric, such as velveteen or velvet. Here, when sewing, it is necessary to take into account not only the direction of the pile and the smoothing of the seams, but also to focus on decating, which is why the cost of chapans from these fabrics can rise to sky-high prices.

Such a luxury, of course, will not be affordable for ordinary residents. In this connection, the relevant departments, when compiling a list of everyday outfits, will have to pay attention to their cost.

Most likely, taking into account the budget of the average Tajik citizen, it will be necessary to abandon the use of expensive fabrics, and even more so from expensive decorative embroideries. The latter can be afforded only during the days of celebrations of Tajik traditional celebrations.

And for work, men will be able to dress easier: in clothes made of such fabrics as alocha (bright, multi-colored striped fabric made of silk and cotton), bekasab (striped fabric, widely used for sewing men's and children's dressing gowns, wadded blankets and other things) or banoras ( plain cotton fabric).

These materials, by the way, despite their simplicity and cheapness, have long conquered the restrained West. Central Asian motifs can now be found even in the collections of such global fashion houses as Gucci and Dior. So Tajik men with the transition to national clothes will definitely be dressed in the latest fashion.

All these, of course, are only ideas, but if they are put into practice, after a while, at the word "Tajik", everyone will see a colorful brunette with a long dressing gown on the floor.

Over time, sketches will cease to be only advisory in nature and will become everyday fashion, and then a habit, especially if such specialized departments as the Ministry of Culture, the Committee on Women and Family Affairs, and the Committee on Youth Affairs under the government of the Republic of Tatarstan worked on them.

In Tajikistan, each of the districts has its own national costume. In terms of cut, it is approximately the same everywhere, but differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of jewelry. Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but the national Tajik costume is still very popular among rural residents.

Tajik men's and women's national clothes are very similar in cut - tunic-shaped, loose, well hides the figure. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessive fitting in clothes.

Separately, it should be said about the fabrics. Tajiks live in a hot climate, so they prefer cotton and silk fabrics. Purely national Tajik fabrics include alocha (an iridescent striped fabric of different colors, consists of cotton and silk), snipe (semi-silk fabric, striped or patterned) and brocade (silk fabric with gold and silver threads).

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the lower layer of clothing is usually sewn from cheap fabric, and the upper layer is made from more expensive.

National clothes of Tajik men

Bloomers ("ezor" and "ishton") are also sewn quite wide, but tapering to the bottom. Over the shirt, men put on a dressing gown ("chapan") of a free-flowing open cut, as a rule, striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with an embroidered ornament on the collar.

Women's national clothes of Tajiks

Tajik women adhering to traditions wear long shirt dresses (kurtas) and loose-fitting two-layer harem pants. Shirts with sleeves expanding towards the bottom are decorated with embroidery and have different names depending on the type of collar. In the old days, gussets (inserts, wedges) of a different color were sewn into such shirts, this had a magical meaning and, by giving it, provided the woman with fertility.

Separately, it should be said about the veil ("faranji"). Tajik women wore them mainly in cities where there were many strangers. The paranja symbolized purity, chastity, modesty and fidelity. Today it is an essential attribute of the bride's attire. In addition, it is believed that the veil protects a pregnant woman from dark forces. And, finally, such an element of the costume allowed a woman to feed her child even in public.

Tajik headwear

Male headdress - skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap their heads with a woolen scarf. A turban is also still popular, which is worn over a skullcap or a kuloh hat.

Women traditionally cover their heads with a dress of three components: turbans, hats and "lachaka" - a kind of scarf. Sometimes these elements can be used separately from each other.

The head of the bride is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women have begun to wear skullcaps (totsi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik shoes

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successfully combine traditional decorations with modern ones. Women are very fond of wearing necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. It can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry - forged and chased, is made of silver, and is distinguished by some massiveness. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

Hope among employees and not allow propaganda of alien - European - clothing. Special fashion shows and competitions for fashion designers are actively held in the country. And the presenters of state TV channels go on the air in stylized Tajik clothes.

Tags: Tajikistan, history