What kind of leather are Vera Pelle bags made of? Leather types Excellent durability Italian calfskin

“The description said leather, but frank leatherette arrived!”, “What is leather construction? Like leather or some kind of substitute?”- many of those who buy clothes and shoes where it is cheaper and of better quality - in foreign online stores - faced similar troubles and questions.

Leather (aka leather in English) is a multi-layered concept, and in every sense. Over the millennia, during which this material has been actively used in the manufacture of clothing, footwear, accessories, craftsmen have created a huge number of methods for dressing and processing leather.

From the same material, tanners can make a thing that is soft, and “oak”, and durable, and “just right”, and premium quality, and the budget segment. Therefore, leather in the product description should not mislead you - this is not at all a reason to believe that a store (even the most popular and reputable one) will certainly send you a high-quality leather jacket, bag, or, say, a pair of boots.

There are two big differences between “skin” and “skin”, as Odessans say. Let's talk about the difference.

And let's start with the most genuine leather.

Genuine Leather - leather from cattle skins

In terms of quality, genuine classic leather can seriously differ depending on the type of “manufacturer”.

Cow leather- one of the most popular types. As the name implies, it is made from processed cow hide. The result is a durable, strong, wear-resistant material, which at the same time has flexibility and a certain elasticity. Has a natural leather texture and thickness from 1.1 to 4 mm - on average, about 2-2.5 mm. It is mainly used for the manufacture of bags, outerwear, shoes of the middle price range.

Bull leather or Steerhide- despite its related origin to cow leather, this type of leather has quite significant differences from cow leather. First of all, in thickness - from 2.5 to 5 mm. Due to this parameter, bovine skin is very dense, tough, bends poorly, almost does not stretch and keeps its shape perfectly. It is used for the manufacture of high-strength (work) footwear, ultra-reliable outerwear, bags, belts, and other haberdashery goods - for example, key rings, bookmarks, etc.

Calfskin, calf, veal (“calfskin”)- thin, soft, plastic. Due to its elasticity and “tenderness”, it is often used in the manufacture of premium clothing, footwear and accessories (for example, gloves). At the same time, it has a predictably lower strength and durability compared to the types of leather listed above.

Buffalo leather- the densest, toughest and heaviest among the "cow" skins. Despite the relative thinness - on average, up to 3 mm, buffalo leather is resistant to mechanical damage and high moisture-repellent characteristics. It is found much less often of the types listed above, therefore it belongs to a higher price category. Coarse-grained buffalo leather is often used in premium accessories and is popular as a material for biker jackets, pants and shoes.

Cowhide, neat’s leather- strong, but flexible and elastic skin. Better than other leathers, it lends itself to all kinds of processing - dressing, dyeing, embossing, so the assortment of goods made of cowhide is very wide and varied. In addition to outerwear, shoes, accessories, cowhide is often used for upholstered furniture, decorating car interiors and living / working spaces, etc.

Goat leather, goat skin- one of the most delicate to the touch, thin, elastic types of leather. Has a characteristic “wavy” texture. Due to its plasticity, it is most often used in the manufacture of high-quality accessories (for example, tight-fitting women's gloves) and light outerwear that emphasizes the figure. Of particular note is the chevro skin, which is made from the skins of kids younger than 6 months: dense, with a pleasant texture in the form of fine wrinkles, it is most highly valued.

Shipskin ("sheepskin", "sheepskin")- has a characteristic “velvet” texture, lightness, firmness, softness and elasticity. It lends itself perfectly to any kind of processing, while maintaining a given shape. It is most often used as a basis for the manufacture of high quality outerwear, as well as accessories and hats.

Pigskin ("pigskin")- lightweight, elastic, thin, “porous”. This type of leather lends itself well to dressing and processing (for example, dyeing), however, it has certain problems with strength and water resistance. Therefore, pigskin is most often used in the manufacture of accessories - wallets, wallets, bags, and inexpensive clothing and shoes. This is the most economical type of genuine leather.

Horse leather, horsehide- differs in density, high strength and distinct "glossiness" in finished products. And this is not surprising, given that horse leather requires quite a long processing. As a rule, this type of leather is used to make high-quality outerwear for men, footwear, accessories (also predominantly “men's”), and it is also often used in the production of all kinds of upholstery materials. Separately, it is worth taking out the skin of foals - thin, soft, elastic and expensive: it is used mainly in premium products.

Deerskin, deer leather, buck skin, doeskin- a very elastic material with high strength and excellent thermal characteristics. Deerskin is most often used to make suede material, which is used in the manufacture of gloves (deer, by the way, are considered the warmest), bags, briefcases, wallets. Also, after stiffening processing, it is often found as the basis for goods made in the Indian ethnic style.

Elk skin- similar in properties to deer, but more porous and silky to the touch. Differs in high strength, due to which it is often used in the manufacture of outerwear and footwear (for example, moccasins) for hunters.

There are a number of other exotic leathers:

• crocodile - crocodile skin
• snake - snake skin, snake leather; in particular, the most popular are python (pithon skin) and cobra (cobra skin)
• ostrich - ostrich skin
• kangaroo - kangaroo leather
• shark - shark skin
• stingray - stingray skin, stingray leather.

These skins are not often found on the European and American markets and are mainly used in designer collections of clothing, footwear, and accessories, which is due to their rather high cost. We will not dwell separately on each of the exotic types: as a rule, they do not save on dressing and processing of products, and therefore the output most often turns out to be of a high-quality, ergonomic and far from the most budgetary thing.

Having familiarized ourselves with the types of genuine leather, let's look at the options for its processing, on which the final cost and quality of products largely depend.

Types of leather processing

Natural hide in "pure" form is a rather unpresentable material. To make things from it look bright, beautiful, of high quality, give a pleasant tactile "response", the leather is processed - they remove the remnants of wool, apply one or another type of tanning, polish, apply various coatings (for example, to emphasize the texture or give a glossy shine), paint ...

The most popular leather processing methods that can be found in product descriptions in foreign online stores are as follows.

Smooth leather- smooth skin. It is made from high-quality hides and most often does not undergo almost any processing, except for the removal of wool: it is not polished and does not use additional coatings. Maximum - minimal ennobling treatment in the form of the lightest spraying of wax or paints. Thanks to this, the pores remain free, the skin “breathes”, providing physiological comfort to a person who will wear a product made of such material. In addition, it also increases the wear resistance and service life of the thing. Over time, a so-called "patina" appears on the surface of the skin - slightly darkened areas at the folds and in places of greatest friction, which gives the product a special chic. Smooth leather is usually used to make premium quality clothes, shoes, bags and accessories.

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Krust - crust... It is a relative of smooth leather: crust retains an unprocessed front surface (maximum - natural wax), which, as in the case of smooth leather, allows crust products to “breathe” and also contributes to the appearance of a noble “patina”. Crust is often subjected to a special dyeing regime - through staining, in which the skin acquires color throughout the entire volume. Modern processing methods impart hydrophobic properties to this type of “skin”. Most often crust is used for the manufacture of shoes, accessories, riding goods (in particular, harnesses and saddles) and furniture constriction.

An example of a reddish leather shoe with a noble patina

Aniline leather- aniline leather. This is the name of natural processed leather, on the surface of which a thin protective shell is applied. Aniline leather is considered the premium segment of the leather world - high quality, soft, natural and noble-looking, and the most prone to expensive-looking “patina”.

Semi-aniline leather- semi-aniline leather. The same as its aniline “brother”, but with additional coloring with various pigments and dyes. Due to this, it is more rigid and less "premium", but has increased resistance to external influences.

Corrected grain leather- skin with a corrected facial surface. In fact, this is an additionally processed semi-aniline leather: its surface was leveled as much as possible, then a polymer coating was applied and an embossing procedure was carried out to emphasize the natural texture of the material. The result is a product that is even tougher than semi-aniline leather, but it has reliable protection from moisture and dirt.

Nappa leather, nappa- in fact, thin (0.5-1 mm) corrected grain leather. Most often it is made from sheepskin, but skins of other cattle are also used. Nappa undergoes double tanning and a number of processing procedures that give it one or another decorative effect. It is used in the manufacture of hats, light outerwear, accessories and various decorative elements, including banners for car interiors.

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Vegan leather- often this definition is interpreted as "vegan" or artificial leather. In fact, a vegan is a natural product. This is the name given to high-quality vegetable-tanned crust leather. Vegan is used in the manufacture of luxury apparel and footwear, biker apparel, equestrian and motorcycling products. It should be remembered that this leather belongs to the premium class, and therefore products made from it are unlikely to cost a penny. If a thing made of vegan leather is given away practically for nothing, it is most likely a “vegan leather” in its “frontal” understanding - artificial or eco-friendly.

Velur- velor. This is genuine leather that has undergone a tanning procedure and subsequent polishing of the front or back side. Grinding "fluffs up" the skin, making its surface velvety. The result is a nice, but capricious material: it does not have a special strength and resistance to dirt, and requires careful maintenance to maintain its appearance.

Chamois leather- suede leather. Unlike velor, suede is sanded (“fluffed”) on both sides - front and back. Perfectly "breathes" (and just as well passes water, which may be a disadvantage), keeps its shape well even when wet and after drying, and has the highest tactile characteristics, for which it is loved. Suede is most often used for the manufacture of clothing, including light outerwear, summer, demi-season and fashion shoes, hats, various accessories and jewelry.

Nubuk, nubuck- nubuck. Like velor, it undergoes grinding only on one side - the front side, acquiring a short, very fine pile. It is made of denser skins than velor and suede, due to which it has a higher strength, while maintaining "breathability". Most often, nubuck is used in the manufacture of shoes in the middle and budget segments, but it is also used in outerwear and upholstery materials. Like velor, this material is finicky and requires careful maintenance. Sometimes, in order to avoid problems with moisture permeability and quick pollution, nubuk is additionally impregnated with oil - this material is referred to as nubuk-oil.

Dogskin- like. Soft and elastic skin with a perfectly smooth facial surface. It is made from skins of young animals. Despite the tactile subtlety and tenderness, the husky has good durability. Most often it is used to make gloves, less often - light, tight-fitting shoes or accessories.

Сhevreau, kidskin- chevro. This is the name for soft and dense skin with an original wavy, wrinkled texture on the front surface. Previously, chevro was made from thin skins of young animals and this material was similar in properties to a husky. Nowadays, chevro is more and more often made from calf, sheep and lamb skins, which makes the material less “delicate” - inelastic, impermeable to water and air. Chevro is considered one of the best materials for making shoes; it is also used in furniture upholstery and in the production of accessories.

Sometimes you can find Chevrette leather with a pattern that resembles a chevro. However, the technology of its processing is somewhat different, which is why this type of leather has a noticeable "looseness" and reduced strength characteristics.

Saffiano leather, morocco leather, cross grain- morocco leather. This type of leather, due to a special dressing, as a result of which the surface acquires an unusual shimmering effect, seems to many similar to leatherette. Nevertheless, in front of you is completely natural leather (in most cases - sheepskin or calf), which has high strength, dirt and wear resistance. Model bags, wallets and other accessories are most often produced from this type.

Split leather- “split” leather, split leather. This material is obtained by mechanical “splitting” (roughing) of the hide into several layers - usually from 3 to 6. Thus, the split is front, middle and purl. Thin front Split leather is often used for lining for cameras 'and cameras' furs, as well as various accessories - gloves, hats, etc. The front split, in combination with the middle split, form the so-called split velor, which is used in the production of durable work shoes, clothing and upholstery materials.

Shagreen leather- pebbled leather. The root green, which you may have noticed in the name, is not accidental: earlier this leather was made from horse skins and was traditionally dyed green. Now it is made from sheep and goat skins and given any color. However, the word “shagreen” (shagrin), applied to the skin with a characteristic convex-granular texture, has been preserved. Most often, shagrin is used to create various decorative elements, as well as leather for technical purposes.

Cordovan- cordovan. A distinctive feature of this vegetable tanned leather is a smooth, glossy outer surface. This is practically an exclusive material: as a rule, it is made from horse skins, which are subjected to manual dressing for many months (up to six months). As a result, cordovan acquires premium properties: amazing strength, water resistance, dirt resistance, durability and characteristic gloss. This premium quality leather is used mainly for making expensive men's shoes.

Patent leather- patent leather. Well, everything is clear from the name: it can be any leather that has a varnish coating. Such processing gives the product additional attractiveness.

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Pebble leather, pebble grain leather- grainy leather. Differs in texture - pronounced convex granular. Such texture in some cases (especially when it comes to exotic types of skins) is natural, but most often it is applied using special equipment. Its advantages: resistance to water and dirt, ease of care, interesting appearance.

And a little about the alternative

It is not uncommon for the word leather to appear in the description of a product, but it has little to do with the properties and quality of real leather.

For example, you can often come across the concept of leather construction - in this case we are talking about the so-called “recycled leather”, which is produced from tannery waste: various trimmings are crushed to obtain a fibrous powder, which is then glued together by adding latex or other adhesives. The resulting material is similar to natural leather and even has its smell, but its strength and quality characteristics are still lower than that of real leather.

And a separate item is faux leather and all kinds of leatherette. Modern production has reached such heights that the quality of such materials is often close to the quality of natural leather, but their cost is much lower - and this is a big plus for those who would like to purchase a high-quality, almost leather thing for little money.

Among the various types of artificial leather, the following are worth noting.

PU leather, polyurethane leather- PU or polyurethane leather. This material is made on the basis of natural, but damaged skins: the damaged face layer is replaced with the finest polyurethane fiber. The result is a product that, like natural leather, “breathes”, has a fairly high strength, and tolerates low temperatures well. The use of PU allows you to give the product almost any color that is often inaccessible for "natural", so products from this material can look much brighter and more attractive.

PVC leather, polyvinyl chloride leather, vinyl synthetic leather- PVC leather. The basis of this material is monolithic porous polyvinyl chloride (a chemical compound with good elasticity and pleasant tactile characteristics, similar to skin). PVC is applied to fabric, knitwear, various synthetics, and then impregnated with polymer substances that give the material strength and density. Vinyl leather is wear-resistant, has an attractive "leather" look, holds its shape well, and is easily cleaned from dirt. Outerwear is often sewn from it - youth or biker-style, model and sports shoes, used in the manufacture of accessories and when hauling car salons.

Eco leather- eco-leather. It is also an absolutely synthetic material, except perhaps for the base, on which a layer of “breathable” polyurethane is applied - it can also be made of natural fabric. You shouldn't look down on eco-leather: experts assure that high-quality material has all the advantages of natural leather and, at the same time, is devoid of most of the disadvantages. Visually, eco-leather practically does not differ from natural, has comparable strength and durability, and also, unlike natural leather, does not require special care. And all this at a very humane price. Eco is used in a huge number of products - clothes, shoes, bags, belts, hats, decorative elements are sewn from it, as well as materials for upholstering furniture and car interiors.

Synthetic patent leather- patent artificial leather. It can be produced from all types of artificial leather by coating them with varnish. Has high strength, wear resistance, attractive appearance. Like eco-leather, it is used for the manufacture of almost everything - from clothes and shoes to decorative elements.

In general, artificial leather can be a very decent material. True, it should be borne in mind: their quality depends on the manufacturer's conscientiousness. If you trust the brand you intend to buy, then any type of faux leather in its description should not scare you - most likely, you will receive a quality item at a pleasant price.

Screenshot from 6PM website

The description clearly states that we are talking about Rubber Synthetic leather - rubberized artificial leather. However, given the status of the brand, there should be no doubt about the quality of this material.

Attention!

Often the phrase “Premium leather” appears in descriptions. At first glance, it reads unambiguously - “premium leather”. However, as practice shows, such a definition can hide both high-quality natural or artificial leather, and cheap leatherette. Again, it all depends on the integrity of the manufacturer and the scrupulousness of the online store in which the product is placed. Therefore, deciding to purchase shoes or clothes from Premium leather in some online stock at an attractive price, do not be lazy to look for the same model on the official website or in trusted stores that give a more complete description.

Leather: types of leather, methods of leather dressing.

Leather Is a strong and durable material that is made from the skins of various animals. Leather production is one of the most ancient. Man has long learned to process leather and use it to make clothes, shoes, bags, accessories and various household utensils. Genuine leather is classified according to several criteria: by purpose, by the type of raw materials used, by the method of dressing and finishing.

Leather dressing methods

Crafted leather is usually divided into three main types: raw leather, rawhide and tanned leather.

Raw leather (raw, cast)- leather material of the most ancient way of production. Usually, she only cleans the skin and removes the wool, that is, this is what is called "leather" in the leather industry.

Rawhide (damp, ball)- leather material of the ancient method of dressing. It is produced by loosening the structure of the skin with the fixation of this state with fatty substances. It was ubiquitous, but now it is practically superseded by tanned leather.

Tanned leather (sheepskin coat)- pelt (raw leather) treated with tanning agents to impart plasticity, strength, durability, etc. In the old days, oak bark was used in the process of making leather, hence the name "tanning".

Despite the difference in methods and recipes for processing leather, there are general mandatory steps. The first generic operation is flesh, in which the skin is deprived of the remnants of meat, fat and subcutaneous adipose tissue. Then, if required, dehairing is performed or ashening removing hair and epidermis. The resulting product is called cast.

Mereya- This is a pattern on the surface of the skin, formed by traces of hair follicles removed together with the epidermis as a result of tanning the skin.

Bakhtarma- the inner surface of the skin formed after fleshing.

Types of leather tanning

After the initial processing of the leather, tanning is started. According to modern concepts, tanning is the process of bonding collagen molecules with tanning particles (cross-linking of molecules). There are many types of tanning now:

Vegetable tanning- in the manufacturing process, oak bark and other ingredients obtained from plants are used. The result is a brown elastic material. The desired shade is achieved by varying the quantity and quality of the ingredients used and by choosing the color of the raw material. Vegetable tanned leather is not water resistant. When exposed to moisture, it changes color, and if it absorbs liquid and then dries, it will decrease in size (shrink) and harden, become less elastic. In hot water, this type of leather shrinks and becomes a hard, brittle material, which affects its quality and limits its use.

Iron tanning- it is used very rarely due to the negative properties of ferric iron to catalyze the destruction of collagen.

Aluminum tanning- For tanning, usually aluminum alum is used, which, upon hydrolysis, form tanning basic aluminum salts. Compared to chromium salts, tanning basic aluminum salts have a weak tanning effect. Aluminum tanning is used mainly for the manufacture of glove leathers (huskies). To increase heat resistance, it is possible to use aluminum and organic tanning agents at the same time.

Chrome tanning- Trivalent chromium salts are used for tanning. The softness and elasticity of chrome-tanned leather is higher than that of tannid-tanned leather. More resistant to high temperatures. In humid conditions they get wet faster and dry more slowly. Chrome tanning agent stains bakhtarma in a gray-green color.

Zirconium tanning- Zirconium tanned leathers have good strength and abrasion resistance. Zirconium tanning agent paints bakhtarma white.

Titanium tanning- the leather obtained by titanium tanning has basically a quality similar to that of zirconium tanned leather and does not stain the bakhtarma.

Fat tanning- In fat tanning, pelt is treated with fats containing unsaturated fatty acids. These include the fats of marine animals (seals, sperm whales and fish). The mechanism of fat tanning is complex and is currently interpreted in different ways. It is usually believed that in the tanning process, the oxidation of unsaturated fats occurs due to the addition of air oxygen double bonds at the site. Oxidation products enter into a chemical bond mainly with the amino groups of collagen. Fat tanning is used to produce one type of leather - suede. Fat-tanning gives the leather high water resistance and softness. When in contact with water, suede leather initially lets it through, but becomes waterproof as it swells. This property also allows the use of suede as special filters.

Tanid tanning- Vegetable tannins and synthetic tannins (syntans) are used in tannin tanning. They are compounds of the carbocyclic series, being derivatives of polyhydric phenols. Plant extracts containing tannins (for example, willow, spruce, oak, quebracho) are used as raw materials for the production of plant tannins. Phenols, resorcinol, naphthalene resotan, etc. are used as raw materials for syntans production. Tanides bind to amino groups of collagen molecules. In addition, they are deposited as a filler in the skin. Tanides give the skin a number of valuable properties: increased thickness, plasticity. They are mainly used in the manufacture of plantar leather. Currently, due to low heat resistance and wear resistance, pure tannin tanning is not used. Tanid tanning is usually combined with chrome, titanium and zirconium. This allows you to obtain leather with the advantages of these tanning.

Aldehyde tanning- Of the aldehydes for tanning, formaldehyde and glutaraldehyde are used. They are currently not widespread. Formaldehyde tanned leather is thin. Tanning with glutaraldehyde is of great interest. In terms of physical and mechanical properties, glutaric leather is close to chrome, but it is distinguished by high perspiration resistance, alkali resistance, softness and elasticity. Such tanning, due to imparting high perspiration resistance and microbiological resistance to the leather, is advisable to use for the production of insole leather.

Combined tanning- Combinations of tanning agents are used to give the leather the beneficial quality of each tanning process. For example, the use of chrome compounds for tanning gives leathers high wear resistance, heat resistance; tannides - plasticity and increased thickness; zirconium compounds - density, strength, etc. Of the combined tanning, the most widespread for the production of sole leathers are: ХР (chromium-vegetable), ХТС (chromium-titanium-syntanic).

With poor penetration of tanning agents into the structure of the dermis (in the case of thick and dense leather tissue), a skin defect such as unprocessed(in the form of a light strip in the center of the cross section of the skin).

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Types of leather by type of raw material used

Skin of cattle (cattle)

Calfskin- is considered the highest quality and most valuable leather. It is used to make shoes, clothes, belts, accessories, upholstery and is an affordable and popular material for making bags. Calfskin is smooth, soft, durable, does not break or crack on its surface. Production includes chrome and vegetable tanning. Calfskin bags are very elegant and do not wear out for a long time.

Calf skin, depending on the age of the animal, is subdivided into the following types:

1. Slime- the skin of unborn calves. Skin thickness from 1.0 to 1.4 mm. Used to make haberdashery leather.

2. Calms- skin of breastfed calves up to 6 months old. Soft, delicate, elastic, it is considered the most valuable skin. Skin thickness from 0.5 to 1.4 mm.

3. Outgrowth- skin of calves up to one year old, feeding on plant food. The skin is less elastic and softer than the calves. Skin thickness from 0.7 to 1.6 mm.

4. Half-leather- skin of calves under the age of 1.5 years. The leather is tougher and is cut. Skin thickness from 1.0 to 3.0 mm.

5. Yalovka- the skin of a calved cow is denser and more uniform in thickness; superior in quality to the bull and bull. The skin of a calving cow is distinguished by a small saddlecloth and large thin floors. Cow skin is available in thickness from 1.2 to 4.0 mm. The leather is cut.

6. Goby- the skin of a young bull (up to 5.00 mm thick). It is used for the production of shoe and technical leather.

7. Bychina- the skin of castrated bulls. Has a thin hairline. It is used for the production of footwear, saddlery and technical leathers, raw materials.

8. Buffalo- the skin of bulls. It is the thickest and heaviest among cattle skins, has a rough and loose structure. The heaviest and thickest is buffalo skin. Due to their thickness and strength, such leathers have a long service life, but they are rarely used in production. Compared with bovine, it has thickened floors, knobs, rump; more wrinkled skin. It is used for the production of technical leathers and raw materials.

Sheep and goat skins

Sheep skin have a large thickness of the papillary layer of the dermis - from 50% in fine-wooled to 80% in coarse-haired. Low strength and good plasticity are inherent in such skins. Due to the weak connection between the reticular and papillary dermis, lagging of these layers can be observed. Used to make chevrette and haberdashery leathers.

Goat skin- durable, soft and thin material with a beautiful measure. The skins of goats have a large thickness of the reticular layer (up to 60%), dense interlacing of collagen bundles, which makes these skins dense and strong with their small thickness. Used to make chevro.

1. Chevro(from French. "Сhevreau"- kid) - leather made from the skins of kids up to 6 months. It is considered one of the most expensive lame tanned leathers. Very beautiful, dense, elastic chevro skin has a strong structure with an original pattern on the front side in the form of fine wrinkles. It is used for the tops of footwear (including children's), haberdashery, clothing, furniture upholstery.

2. Kozlina- goat skin made from an adult.

3. Chevret- leather, lame tanned from sheep skins. In terms of design, the mei is similar to a chevro. It is used for the top of shoes, clothing and haberdashery.

Pig skin

Pigskin- the most economical and unpresentable type of leather, it differs in appearance and structure from cattle leather. Pigskin is nowadays mainly used as a lining material and rarely as a main material. This is due to the fact that pork skin is not elastic enough, gets wet quickly, has a rough and hard surface, and also has a persistent odor. In addition, it is not strong enough, and the ugly perforated texture in the product does not look interesting.

Horse skin

Horse skins are not often used in leather goods production. Due to the numerous highly developed sweat and sebaceous glands, the dermis is looser than that of cattle skins. The front is more suitable for making soft leather; Khaz is used to make tough leather.

1. Slime- skins of unborn or stillborn foals. Hair is almost absent, mane is not developed; in properties it is close to opoyka. Used to make haberdashery leather.

2. Foal- the skin of dairy foals is a valuable material. The skin is uniform in thickness and has almost no defects, which is why it is highly valued. It is used for the production of haberdashery leather and shoe uppers.

3. Lesson- the skin of foals that ate plant foods.

4. Fringe- skins of young horses up to one year old. It is used for the production of leather upper shoes.

5. Large horse raw materials- area up to 400 sq. dm., thickness 1.5-3 mm.

Deer skin

Deer skin- very elastic leather, has high strength and heat protection. Most often, suede material is made from deer skin. Used for the production of gloves, briefcases, bags, wallets. The warmest gloves are made of deer skin.

Moose leather- elegant, durable, silky to the touch leather, similar in properties to deer, but has a slightly more porous structure. Used for sewing men's outerwear and accessories.

Camel skin

Camel skins produce low-quality, low-strength leather, which is used mainly for leather goods.

Cut out raw materials and finished leathers

In the production of leather, they are cut and have various configurations. This is determined by the size of the hide and the range of finished leathers.

• Whole skin.
• Semi-leather- half of the skin, cut along the back line.
• Kulat- a skin with a cut off collar.
• Vorotok- part of the skin from the neck, usually has many blemishes.
• Cheprak- the most valuable part of the hide is the dorsal part, which does not have a floor and collar. It can be up to 55% by area of ​​the area of ​​the entire skin. It can be divided into “upper saddle” and “lower saddle”. It is usually used for the production of belts, bags and other products that require high density of raw materials.
• Crop- saddle cloth, cut in the form of a rectangle.

Areas of the hide with the most defects:

• Paws.
• Paul- part of the skin from the peritoneum.
• Flanks- areas of the skin adjacent to the paws from the ventral side.

Horse hide is subdivided into the following sections:

• Haz- the back of the hide (croup and legs).
• Der Spiegel- thickened areas of the skin, located above the articulation of the pelvis and femurs. Khaza site.
• Peredina- skin without khaz. Most valuable part.

Classification of finished leather by purpose

• Shoe leather.
• Clothing and haberdashery leather- for sewing clothes, hats, gloves, bags, wallets, etc. For these purposes, chevret, husky, suede, cattle leather are used. By the type of tanning, they mainly use chrome and chrome tanned leather.
• Saddle leather- for human and equestrian equipment. Used the skin of cattle and pigs.
• Technical leather- for mechanisms (eg drive belts).

A broader classification includes the following items:

• Upper leather- for these purposes, chrome-tanned cattle leather, horse fronts and whips, chevro with various finishes - nubuck, velor, split leather, varnish are used. For the top of heavy shoes, leather is used.
• Lining leather- designed for shoe lining parts. Pork skins are mainly used for these purposes.
• Leather for the bottom of shoes- used for the manufacture of insoles and shoe soles. For these purposes, pork skins and cattle skins, as well as horse khaz are used.
• Glove leather- are produced from sheepskin, goats, pork, dog and horse legs.
• Upholstery leather- for upholstery of furniture, car interiors. Used chrome tanned cattle leather.
• Parchment- dried unburned pelt from cattle skins. It is characterized by high hardness and is used in the manufacture of musical instruments.
• Damp- unfinished skin of cattle, pigs and elk. Used to make horse harness and equipment.

Skin types

There are many classifications of leather, which differ in the type and age of the animals from which they are obtained, as well as in the way they are processed and dyed.

Here are some examples:

Bovine skin - its thickness, in contrast to calf skin, is 2.5-5 mm, and the size of the skins can exceed 2.5 square meters. Traditionally it is called "saddlery". It was originally used for the production of saddles, harnesses and other harness elements. Nowadays, bovine is used, as a rule, for the manufacture of denim belts, ethnic style bags, wardrobe trunks and backpacks. This type of leather is better than others for hand and mechanical embossing. Due to the thickness and strength of the leather, products made from it can last almost forever.

Bovine skin

An example of a bovine leather jacket. The photo shows the thickness of the skin and its characteristic texture.

Buffalo skin - in terms of its main characteristics, it is very close to bovine skin, but the skins have an even larger size and an interesting “coarse-grained” (or “wrinkled”) texture of the front surface. Resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. Very popular in biker jackets and accessories. Unfortunately, this type of skin is not widespread in Russia.

Buffalo skin

Buffalo leather bag.

Cowhide - flexible, elastic, durable leather with an impressive natural texture of the front side. Accepts well various types of dressing, processing and coloring. It allows you to get a significant range of leather materials of various colors and textures, including elite and exclusive. Has a wide range of applications, including: sewing clothes, footwear and haberdashery, upholstering furniture, upholstery and decoration of car interiors, residential and office premises, the manufacture of decorative and gift items.

Cowhide

Cow leather is tough leather, less thick and less tough than bovine leather. Has a pleasant natural texture, wear-resistant. It is used for the manufacture of haberdashery goods, outerwear, footwear and accessories of a moderate price range.

Cow's skin

Ladies bag made of cow leather.

Calfskin is thin, soft, pliable, silky to the touch, has a natural "breathable" structure, high strength and wear resistance. The characteristics, use and cost of calfskin depend on the age of the animals. Skin of calves of milk age (up to 6 months) - calves - perfectly drapes and keeps its shape, has high elasticity and resistance to deformation. High quality clothing and accessories are made from it. Calf skin up to one year of age - outgrowth - thicker, less elastic and is used for the manufacture of high quality footwear, bags and other haberdashery products and accessories. The toughest and tightest calf skin up to 18 months of age - half-leather ... It is used both for the manufacture of high-quality shoes, bags, suitcases and various souvenirs, as well as for interior decoration.

Calfskin

Calfskin - Soft, supple leather obtained from the skins of suckling calves. Most valuable leather. Fibers are thin, elastic, dense weave. The calf's hair is thicker, thinner and more beautiful than that of an adult animal. The calf skin turns out to be soft, full, with a beautiful measure.

Opoyek

The outgrowth is the skin of a calf that has switched to plant food, which changes the primary hairline during the shedding process. The quality of the leather is worse than that of the calfskin, the interweaving of the fibers is weaker. The finished skin is even, thick, with a beautiful grain, but not as full as the calves. Upper shoes and leather goods are made from it.

Outgrowth

Pigskin is a fairly thin and light skin with a characteristic large-pored texture. Accepts dressing and coloring well, but does not differ in strength and water resistance. It is used for the mass production of inexpensive haberdashery goods, clothing, shoes, accessories, upholstery and lining materials.

Pigskin

Pigskin wallet.

Horse leather is a fairly dense, high-strength leather of medium plasticity, requiring a rather long processing to achieve quality. It is used for the manufacture of high quality men's outerwear, hats, shoes, accessories, as well as natural upholstery and lining materials.

Horse leather jacket.

Goat skin is delicate and soft, very thin and strong, has a unique wavy pattern, is sufficiently waterproof, retains heat well, is flexible and elastic. Used to make high quality, elegant accessories and lightweight outerwear.

Goat skin

Sheepskin (sheep skin)- flexible, soft, firm skin with high elongation. Perfectly processed and retains the given shape. It is considered one of the best materials for making high-quality fashion clothes, hats and accessories.

Sheepskin

Men's sheepskin jacket.

Deer skin - Leather, in the manufacturing process of which fat extracted from animal brains or other types of fats are used. The end result is an elastic, durable, velvety material similar to suede. It retains its shape well with frequent changes in temperature and humidity. Perfectly retains heat, protects against wind and moisture. This type of leather is commonly used for making briefcases, bags, purses and wallets.

Deer skin

Elk leather - elegant, durable, silky to the touch leather, similar in properties to deerskin, but has a slightly more porous structure. Used for sewing men's outerwear and accessories.

Moose leather

This is how the details of a hunting jacket made of moose leather look like.

Reptile and exotic animal skin- very expensive and noble leather. These are skins - crocodile, python, monitor lizard, ostrich, kangaroo. Recently, designers have taken notice of the eel skin.

Lizard skin

Reptile skin

Eel skin

Crocodile leather - characterized by noble beauty, complex, long-term and laborious processing, strength, elasticity, absolute resistance to moisture and dirt, very high cost. According to raw materials, properties and price, they are divided into: leather caiman- more rigid and less durable; the skin itself crocodile and skin alligator... Shoes, clothing, haberdashery and accessories made of crocodile leather are made mainly by hand, by top-class craftsmen and adorn the collections of the world's leading designers.

Crocodile skin

Crocodile leather bag.

Snake skin is smooth and elastic, with fantastic patterns and texture, strong, durable and perfectly accepts various types of dressing, processing and coloring. Most popular leather python and cobras... Snake skin is used to make shoes, clothing and accessories, giving even the smallest item a unique and unique character.

Snake skin

Snakeskin cowboy wallet.

Ostrich skin is a dense, plastic, fairly strong skin, has a very effective texture of the front surface. One of the most popular materials in the collections of many famous designers. It is used for the manufacture of shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items, decorative elements and interior decoration.

Ostrich skin

Ostrich leather gloves. The characteristic texture is visible.

Kangaroo skin is flexible and resilient, light and durable, has high air permeability and hygroscopicity, perfectly retains its properties and shape in finished products. It is used for sewing clothes, footwear, including sports shoes, haberdashery and accessories.

Kangaroo skin

Hiking boots made of kangaroo leather.

Shark skin - is considered the most durable among natural leathers, while being light and elastic. In its natural state, it is covered with very hard and sharp scales, which are difficult to remove. Shark skin is used to make shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs.

Shark skin

Shark skin wallet, handcrafted.

Stingray leather - has a very attractive fine-grained texture of the front surface, is very durable and difficult to dress and process, but it is waterproof, resistant to dirt and does not require special care. It is used for the manufacture of high-quality outerwear, shoes, haberdashery items and accessories, decorative elements and even women's jewelry.

Stingray skin

Stingray leather case for Iphone.

Boiled leather - vegetable tanned leather, which has passed through immersion in hot water, boiling wax, or similar substances to increase its durability. Historically, such leather was used as armor due to its hardness and light weight, and was also used for book bindings.

Boiled leather bag.

Krust is a general designation of dense leather with a preserved natural front surface, obtained mainly from cattle hides. Such leathers undergo chrome or chrome-free tanning and undergo cover or through dyeing. To protect against moisture, the front surface of the crust is treated with natural wax, while maintaining the natural breathability of the skin. Crust is used for the manufacture of shoes, haberdashery and office products, furniture upholstery, the manufacture of riding goods (saddles, harnesses) and special-purpose goods (scabbards, game bags, holsters, etc.). Products made from trust are durable, with prolonged use in places of folds and constant friction they acquire a darker color (patina) and the effect of natural aging.

Krust

Vegan (Vegan) - crust, tanned with substances of natural (vegetable) origin. To obtain a vegan, both cattle skins and pork skins are used, with a thickness of 1 to 3 mm. Designed specifically for the manufacture of carved elements, carving and embossing, which are widespread in subcultures, the biker environment, as well as in the manufacture of traditional elements of the costume and everyday life of the inhabitants of the western United States (belts, game bags, holsters, scabbards, etc.). Vegan is used for making decorative and gift items, accessories and household items in ethnic, "country" and "crazy" styles, elements of traditional costumes, riding goods (saddles, harnesses).

Vegan

Velor (fr. velours- velvet, from lat. villosus- hairy, shaggy) - leather made from pork, less often sheep skins, chrome tanned with a front surface treated by grinding. Velor is an inverted skin, which has a bakhtarma on the outside, and the front side (grain) on the inside. Sometimes velor from the seamy side is piled under suede. This material can be equally soft and thin, also hard and thick, it all depends on the processing technology. It is used for the manufacture of tops of shoes, clothing and leather goods.

Velours

Natural velor gloves.

Suede - fat-tanned leather (ie raw hides, subjected to preliminary preparation. When tanned, impregnated with fats). Serves for the manufacture of shoes, gloves, haberdashery, outerwear, jackets, skirts, and also as a filtering and polishing material. High-quality shoe suede is obtained from the skins of deer calf, outgrowth and Russian short-tailed sheep, technical - from the sheepskin of Russian long-tailed sheep, wiping - from the skins of adult deer, Russian sheepskin. Suede has a high ductility and porosity, which makes it more breathable. Suede is distinguished by its special softness, which it retains not only after soaking in water, but also after washing in soapy water, which is why Suede is also called “washable leather”. This material is less durable than smooth leather and requires careful maintenance.

Suede leather

Laika - Thin, soft, elastic skin. In the old days, it was made from dogs - hence the name, now it is mainly made from the skins of lambs and goats with chrome or chromium-fat tanning. The surface of the grain should be perfectly smooth, without wrinkles. Despite the softness and tenderness of the husky, it is quite durable and wear-resistant. It is mainly used for the manufacture of gloves, decorative items and ornaments, much less often - in the manufacture of light footwear and haberdashery. Laika does not tolerate moisture well, and after drying it loses its shape and properties. Products made from huskies require proper care.

Laika

Gloves from a husky.

Nappa - Thin semi-aniline leather made from the hides of cattle and sheepskin. It can have a thickness of 0.5 to 1.0 mm. Nappa leather is an extremely soft and resilient material commonly used for the production of high quality wallets, toiletry sets, haberdashery, various accessories and decorative items.

Nappa

Nappa Lacquer - Varnished leather. Most often it is lacquered nappa.

Napplack

Nubuck (nubuck) - fine chrome-tanned leather with a ground surface with fine-grained abrasive materials (for example, sand). It is used for the manufacture of haberdashery, shoe upper parts and upholstered furniture upholstery.

Nubuck is similar to suede, but it is made from other types of leather, usually cattle. Nubuck is less resistant to dirt and pickling faster than suede. Nubuck requires careful attention, especially in the first month of wearing. Nubuck like a sponge absorbs any moisture and it will be good if you are especially careful during this period. It goes away later. Remember that light-colored nubuck clothes darken over time, and dark ones lighten. Nubuck is durable and durable with proper care.

Nubuck

Distinguish: natural nubuck, artificial nubuck, nubuck-oil.

Natural nubuck made of genuine leather. Has a weak bristle on the front surface, which gives the skin a good appearance - it becomes velvety. Genuine leather nubuck has good breathability. The disadvantages of this leather include low wear resistance and the need to care for products. Products made from natural nubuck must be cleaned with special products.

Natural nubuck

Artificial nubuck or synthetic is much cheaper than nubuck made of genuine leather. It is a multi-layer polymer material that has a velvety texture and is similar in appearance to natural nubuck. Unlike natural nubuck, synthetic nubuck does not absorb water and is more durable.

Artificial nubuck

Nubuck-oil is a nubuck that has been protected from moisture during the production process by treating it with a fat impregnation. Nubuck is soft and velvety to the touch, while nubuck oil is moist to the touch and heavier than regular nubuck. It is more durable and unpretentious than regular nubuck.

Nubuck oil

Crazy - exquisite leather with an elegant matte face and pull-up effect. Unlike nubuck, after sanding it undergoes a special stretching and waxing treatment. This treatment gives the effect of lightening and "floating" color in places of skin stretch. Also used for making shoes and as furniture material.

Crazy

Morocco - high-quality, thin, soft leather of juicy bright colors, made by vegetable tanning, usually from goat skins, less often from the skins of sheep, calves and foals. Possesses high strength, resistance to pollution and mechanical damage, has an elegant rich appearance. It is used for the manufacture of stylish bags and accessories, decorative items, ornaments and elements of national clothing. The secret of its production has been known in Russia since the 12th century.

Morocco

Split - natural leather material obtained by mechanical separation - roughing- natural leather in layers, usually from 3 to 6 layers. Chromic and chromium-fatty skins of cattle and pigs are subjected to exfoliation. The front, middle and back (bakhtarmyany) split is obtained by lamination. Thin facial splits are used to obtain high-quality haberdashery and photo leather. Thick facial and medium splits form split velor, used for the manufacture of technical footwear, workwear and for the manufacture of upholstery leather.

Split

Split-velor

Butt is a heavy, dense, thick leather produced by fat tanning from cattle hides taken from the back of an animal. This type of product usually goes to leather for belts for both men and women, since this is the densest part of the hide.

Cheprak

Shora - Dense, thick leather, produced by fat tanning from cattle hides, is more plastic than saddlecloth.

Shora

Shagreen (eng. shagreen leather, shagreen, fr. chagrin) - rough and porous with a decorative convex-granular texture, a kind of uncut leather, made from the dorsal part of the skins of horses or kulans and usually painted green. Shagreen today is usually made from goat, sheep skins.

Shagreen

Galisha (fr. galuchat) - shagreen leather obtained from stingray and shark skins, which have a natural granular structure. It is used for the manufacture of shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs.

Galisha

Chevro (fr. chevreau, eng. kidskin) - Soft, dense, durable leather made from chrome tanned goat skins. On the surface (measure) it has a peculiar pattern in the form of fine wrinkles. It is used for making gloves, shoe uppers. Also, various haberdashery products, decorative elements and souvenirs are made from it.

Kid

Chevrette (Chevrette) - elastic, viscous, dense and loose leather obtained from young sheepskin chrome tanned. The pattern of the front surface resembles a chevro, but is much less durable and worse in quality. It is used for the manufacture of outerwear, footwear and haberdashery. To increase the strength, the loose chevret is treated with polymeric and other materials. A more durable variety of chevrette, better suited for sewing shoes, is obtained from the skins of sheep of coarse-wooled steppe breeds.

Chevrette

Cordovan - durable, strong, elastic exclusive vegetable tanned leather with a shiny smooth front surface. It is made from individual sections of horse hide by very long-term manual dressing (about 6 months). Cordovan is waterproof, durable, easy to clean from dirt, retains its shine for a long time. Used for sewing exclusive men's shoes.

Cordovan

The famous Indy boots from Cordovan.

Leather - Thick fat-tanned leather from cattle hides taken from the belly of an animal. Much softer and more flexible than saddlecloth or blinker. It is made from barn or cow raw materials and skins of one-year-old bulls, with the exception of veal raw materials. After washing and fleshing, the raw material is subjected to ash, washing, trampling and kneading in crushes and drums, cutting, shavings, wringing out the face, boiling in jelly, filling in weak tanning juice and then juice and bulk tanning. Yuft is white, red and black. The best skins are selected for white leather.

Yuft

Cowhide - "Yalovy" in the Slavic languages ​​meant animals that had not yet given birth. Cowhide leather for boots was made from the skins of one-year-old gobies or cows that had not yet given birth. Such leather was optimal for durable and comfortable footwear. Older or younger animals were not suitable - the delicate skin of the calves was still not strong enough, and the thick skins of old cows and bulls, on the contrary, were too hard and heavy to wear.

Cowhide boots

Chromium - Chromium foals are chrome skins made from foal skins. This subspecies of leather is produced in very small quantities, since the bulk of the raw material is used for the manufacture of fur. The thickness of the leather ranges from 0.4 to 1.0 mm. This raw material is mainly used for the manufacture of officer's chrome boots.

Chrome boots

Kirza is an abbreviation for the Kirov plant, where the mass production of these products began during the Great Patriotic War, is a dense, durable multilayer fabric. The term is more often used in relation to shoe tarpaulin - a composite material consisting of a multilayer fabric treated with film-forming substances (actual tarpaulin). Used as a skin substitute. The surface of the shoe tarpaulin is embossed to imitate the texture of pigskin. It is mainly used in the production of tops of army boots, as well as for the manufacture of rubberized drive belts, pouches, tablets.

Kirz boots

Aniline leather - leather dyed with organic dyes with minimal processing. It is the highest quality of all leathers. It is characterized by marks caused by nature, for example, scars and different color shades. It is this type of skin that is more sensitive and prone to patinating (acquiring an antique look) during use.

Aniline leather

Smooth leather - made from the highest quality raw materials, not sanded. Only the wool is removed. The pores of the skin remain in their natural state: the skin "breathes" and, at the same time, the service life of the product increases. Products made from this type of leather are more wear-resistant. In the process of wearing, a natural “patina” appears on the surface of the product and it becomes more beautiful every year. The highest quality furniture and shoes are made from smooth leather.

Smooth skin

Brushed leather- the skin is subjected to grinding and breaking. Sands on one side where natural pores are present. The other side is smooth. It is used for the manufacture of footwear, haberdashery products, clothing.

Brushed leather

Embossed leather - leather in which the pattern on the front surface is obtained by the action of molds or stamps. With the help of embossing, they eliminate defects and imperfections on the front surface of the skin. The resulting embossing pattern can imitate the skin of reptiles (snakes, crocodiles), exotic animals.

Embossed leather

Parchment is a leather that gets its name from the name of the Greek city of Pergamum. This is raw leather made from the skins of lambs, kids, calves. Used to make musical instruments such as drums, some machine parts, book bindings, and women's jewelry. In the old days it served as the main material for writing.

Parchment

Belt leather is smooth leather that was originally used to make driving pulley belts. This type of leather is often used for making briefcases and wallets. It is quite thick, firm and smooth to the touch. Belt leather is the only leather used for luxury goods that can maintain its shape without the need for a skeleton. This material is heavier than smooth leather.

Belt leather

Leather belt

Fish skin - Fish skin manufacturing began in ancient times, earlier it was one of the main materials for sewing clothes and shoes. Fish skin is a material with excellent consumer properties, a beautiful and varied texture. The leather is produced from fish processing waste and has excellent development prospects. Each skin is good in its own way. Salmon- cellular, carp- shaggy, sturgeon- with spikes and stars. Now fish skin has begun to be used in industrial production, from it they make: clothes, shoes, various accessories and decor items.

Fish skin

Fish skin shoes

Patent leather is chrome-tanned leather with varnish coating or duplicated with a varnish film, which gives the surface a mirror-like shine. The quality of patent leather largely depends on the properties of the varnish coating, which must have a certain thickness, the necessary ductility and resistance to repeated bending. Good-quality patent leather should have a shiny, non-sagging film, a uniform color. An amazing glossy, shiny finish gives natural patent leather an exquisite originality, but unfortunately, it has poor durability and low temperature resistance. At temperatures below -10 ° C and above + 25 ° C, patent leather becomes cracked. It is not recommended to wear patent leather shoes in bad weather. From dampness and street dirt, the shiny varnish surface gradually fades and becomes covered with small cracks. Patent leather shoes require special careful care. Periodically, shoes are lubricated with glycerin, petroleum jelly or castor oil to protect them from premature cracking in heat or frost; varnished shoes should be stored wrapped in paper.

One of the most frequent questions that readers ask me is: "How do I know if shoes or a bag are made of pigskin?" For a Muslim, it is very important what material a thing is made of.

So pigskin. In the fashion industry, many brands use pigskin / suede to make accessories such as shoes, belts and bags because it is cheap, which drives down the price of the item. I don’t know what it’s connected with: either because it’s easier to tan pork skin, or because it’s easier to get pigskin (because pigs are very fertile).

I hope that Muslims will benefit from this publication and will be able to figure out what kind of leather products they buy. In real life, I can identify pigskin by its specific features and texture. When it comes to buying from an online store, then again there is an easy way to determine if it is pigskin or not.

1. Physical properties.

The most important sign of pigskin is the presence of a three-point pattern over the entire surface of the skin... Take a closer look, there are many variations of the three dot symbols, but they all have one thing in common: the three dots are so close to each other that they form a kind of group. I call it Mickey Mouse symbol because ... well, doesn't it look like it?

Another sign is that pores are visible on the entire surface... On a typical pigskin, you can easily notice the pores. Some manufacturers try their best to mask this so that the pores are no longer visible, but Allah is Merciful: what is wrong cannot be completely hidden.

So how do you recognize pigskin even from a photograph? Very simple. You will immediately notice where she is.

For example, this insole is like pigskin.

This is obvious because there are three points.

This is another variation of the pigskin insole. When you enlarge the photo, you again notice the three-point pattern, the pores are clearly visible.

Pigskin footbed in neutral tones.

Do you see the pores? Yeah. So it's pigskin!

I call this "pig suede". Even in suede, the pores are clearly visible and a three-point pattern can often be seen.

And this I call "smoothed" pigskin. I think it's the skin of an old pig.

Do you think this is pigskin? Yes!

Here's another version of the "smoothed" pigskin. The pores are strongly smoothed, but visible.

These shoes from the Sandro label can fool you: it's easy to think it's calfskin. But - wait a minute - can't you see the three-point pattern?

And here - as if peeled pigskin. The Asos label itself is made of sheep.

If you see that the label says that the skin is not pigskin, be sure to look at the sides of the shoes, because sometimes individual brands, in order to reduce the cost of products, trim the sides of the shoes with pigskin. Here are some examples:

How do you know it's NOT PIG SKIN? Remember what the skin of other animals looks like.

Typical young calf skin is smoother and smoother than that of an adult bull. The grain on the skin is almost imperceptible, it is very smooth.

Small pores are visible on sheep's skin, but they are not grouped in three, as is the case with pigskin. Take a look at the Asos label I pointed out to above.

Buffalo skin is similar to the skin of an adult bull, but more "grainy" and rather heavy for bags. And, like calf skin, the pores are not visible, unlike pigskin and sheep skin.

Deer skin is a bit like the skin of a young calf, as pores are not visible on it (as I understand it) and it is not "grainy", unlike buffalo. To the touch, it differs from all others.

Ostrich skin is easy to recognize. The pores on it are very noticeable, they are embossed and clearly visible. In this it looks like a pig's skin, but the pattern of ostrich skin is one-point, there are no groups of three points.

Examples of calfskin insoles:

This is not pigskin because it is not pores, but perforations.

Sometimes it happens that you have doubts. And then it is very likely that the skin is pork. For example, as with these McQ shoes:

Doubt immediately creeps in: it is either smoothed pigskin or calf. But, looking closely, you can find confirmation that the skin is pork.

2. Smell.

It is very difficult to describe the smell in the text - you have to smell it yourself. I can say that pigskin has a pungent smell, vaguely similar to the smell of burnt leather, in contrast to the intoxicating aroma of calfskin.

I once bought boots over the internet. Looking at the photo of the insole, I was sure that it was not pigskin. There was no photo of the sidewalls on the Internet, and I bought it blindly. When the package arrived and I opened it, I smelled a familiar smell. Pigskin smell? But where could the pigskin be? And she is on the sides!

3. Price.

Another easy way to determine if a product is made from pigskin (especially if you buy from overseas online stores) is to look at the price. Most of the cheap shoes will have pigskin insoles because this reduces the cost.

As for brands, I avoid many of them, because their shoes have pigskin insoles. I say this with confidence, because I saw these shoes in real life - in stores in London.

These are the following brands:

• Kurt Geiger (especially cheap models, with rare exceptions).
• Hudson.
• Swear.
• Most of the "mid-range stores" eg Topman, River Island, New Look.
• In H&M, somewhere they use pigskin insoles, and somewhere they use synthetic ones.
• Most of Asos shoes.
• Most of the shoes are nubuck from Nike.

As for brands such as Gucci, Prada, Fendi, in general I confirm that they use calfskin. That is why they are so expensive.

The most important - CHECK BEFORE BUYING... You need to make sure the skin is not pork skin. Maybe even at Gucci or Fendi you will find pigskin ... (by the way, under the Gucci label, women’s handbags made of pigskin were produced, which was openly reported).

If in doubt, don't buy. As a Muslim, I never buy pigskin products. Point.

I published this article over two years ago. The time has come to significantly update and supplement it. Over the past two years, I have acquired a lot of new and interesting knowledge about the skin, so it would be a great omission to leave this article as it was.

So, there are a huge number of varieties of leather. Each variety has certain characteristics, features that are worth knowing even before the time of purchase. So, some types of leather are short-lived, others require careful care, and still others are not particularly pleasant and comfortable to wear. In this article I will consider all the more or less common types of leather. First, the main features of the skins of different animals will be described, then - different methods of dressing.

Different animal skins

Pigskin- used for the manufacture of some models of budget shoes, cheap leather jackets, and gloves (rarely). Pigskin products are short-lived, they can get wet through and through. So it is better to avoid products made of pigskin - although one should not forget about the noble wild animals that are "distant relatives" of pigs: about bakers and about capybaras. As I understand it, some foreign authors speak very positively about pork skin, referring to the skin of these particular animals.

Peccary leather - the best leather for gloves. It is very comfortable, and the longer you wear baker's gloves, the more comfortable they are. Plus, it's incredibly strong and durable. She looks somewhat peculiar, so it is not customary to combine such gloves with formal clothes. But the option is excellent. There is only one drawback of bakers' skin: it is very, very expensive. Sometimes bakers make moccasins and other soft shoes from leather. Read more about peccary leather.

Capybara leather (Carpincho) somewhat cheaper than peccary leather, but also expensive. As a rule, capybara leather is used for making gloves in everyday style. She looks a little funny. In general, this is also good and durable leather. Read more about capybara skin.

Bovine leather (bovine leather)- durable and inexpensive, very thick, practically does not get wet. The only bad thing is that it is tough and does not look very noble. It is used to make casual belts, budget shoes, some bags, backpacks and jackets.

Cow leather costs a little more than a bullish one, but looks better, a little more noble. True, she can also be rude and harsh, if we are not talking about young cows. Most of the mid-range footwear is made from cow leather. The durability is high, in general, this is a good option in terms of price and quality.

Calfskin (calf) differs in softness and high strength. This is not surprising, because the skin of young animals is softer. Calfskin is more expensive than cowhide; good and rather expensive shoes, bags, and accessories are made from it. Often, "crocodile", "monitor lizard", "snake" leather is made from calfskin by means of embossing. This is a kind of fake, but not the lowest level, with crocodile leather imitating cheap leatherette. It should be remembered that calfskin can vary in quality; as a rule, the more expensive the leather, the better it is; however, expensive shoes are not necessarily made of premium leather.

Deer leather (deer leather, buckskin, pelle di cervo) used for the production of expensive leisure footwear and rather expensive gloves. It is good, tough and hardy leather, but not too formal in appearance. Keeps warm well, protects from wind. I talked about deerskin in more detail.

Sheep skin. Soft, durable and expensive. It is used for the manufacture of bags, jackets, gloves, belts - mostly premium. Sheep leather products are rarely found on the market.

Goat skin... Soft, dense, durable. Looks great. Also quite expensive. Used to make expensive gloves, wallets, wallets and similar accessories. Sometimes shoes are made from goatskin, but rarely.

The skin of kids and lambs even softer and more expensive.

Cordovan leather (cordovan, cordovan leather). This is leather from horse (horse) groats. Differs in a specific shine, which some people do not like and consider "artificial". Cordovan is very durable and wear-resistant, retains heat well, is unpretentious in maintenance, but rather tough and the creases on it can be very pronounced, wavy. As a rule, shoes are made from cordovan, and expensive ones. For the summer, this is not the most suitable option. The most famous and respected manufacturer of Cordoba leather is the American company Horween. And shoes from this material are made by both Americans (say, Alden and Florsheim) and the British (for example, Crockett & Jones), and even some French and Italians.

Crocodile skin very expensive, goes only for luxury items. Crocodile leather shoes usually cost over $ 1,000. Advantages of crocodile leather: original appearance, as well as a very long service life and great durability. Since crocodile leather is very expensive, products made from it are usually of high quality, they are made carefully, with a large share of manual labor.

Crocodile skin can be divided into several categories: caiman skin(it is the cheapest, but stiffer and less durable), actually crocodile(it is more expensive and better) and alligator(even more expensive, really crazy money). If you think that the skin is obtained from wild animals, then you are wrong: crocodiles are raised on special farms. Leather is expensive because, firstly, during its life the crocodile eats a lot of meat (it is expensive to feed it), and secondly, crocodile skin is difficult and difficult to process.

Snake skin also very expensive, but on average cheaper than crocodile. It is used for the production of informal and designer shoes, bags. Mostly python skin is used, less often cobra skin. A suitable option for those who need luxury, originality and exclusivity; other people can get by with cheaper, modest-looking, but decent in its characteristics skin, for example, calf.

Ostrich skin... A very original texture, a little voluminous, but reminiscent of a plucked chicken (chicken). Ostrich leather is very soft and elastic; it is used for making shoes, jackets, raincoats and luxury accessories. Ostriches, like crocodiles, are bred on special farms. The quality is usually very high.

Types of leather depending on the method of processing

Leathers dressed in different ways can be very different from each other. Moreover, leathers made in the same way, but in different countries, by different firms, may also differ. The quality of the raw materials, that is, the skins, also plays a role. We will not go deep into details, but consider the main features of leathers that have undergone one or another treatment.

Smooth skin... The most common leather, it is from it that most of the shoes and accessories are made. It is enough to just take care of it, it is durable and durable. Good smooth leather is calfskin, usually referred to as box calf, full-grain calf or simply calf... If you look closely, high quality smooth calfskin shows natural texture, veins, pores - but not imperfections. As a rule, the best leather is soft and comfortable enough, but strong, not overly thin or too delicate.

Box calf- it is smooth full-grain calfskin, dyed in a tannery in a single color (usually black or brown). Read more about full-grain and box calf, respectively, and.

Museum calf. High quality smooth calfskin leather, specially treated. It has a slightly mottled, partly even marbled surface. Read more about this leather.

Burnished leather. Products made from such leather are usually finished with waxes and creams at the factory. Their surface is not entirely uniform. Read more about such leather.

Polished leather, bookbinder. Such leather undergoes a special treatment, during which it acquires a rather strong shine and a very even, smooth surface, on which the natural structure of the skin is not visible. Polished leather is of lower quality than smooth leather - and less preferred. It is harsh, scratches quite easily, and is less breathable. However, polished leather can be quite durable. Read more about it.

Some manufacturers may use the term polished to refer to polished good smooth leather, but more often it is still the type described above.

Corrected / corrected-grain leather. This is leather made from skins of not the highest quality, with a layer or "grain" applied artificially. As a rule, the original skin is covered with a layer of various substances, including paint. Polished and corrected-grain leather are similar terms, but corrected-grain is broader; manufacturers use the word polished more often, as it sounds more noble. Corrected-grain can be more or less decent, mediocre or ugly, depending on the manufacturer and the specific variety.

Pebblegrain leather. It looks informal, "grain" is usually obtained using special presses (in this case, such leather can be called corrected-grain, but it is better than polished / bookbinder). The quality varies from firm to firm, it can be very high, it can be mediocre. Overall, not a bad choice if you like this pronounced structure. In addition, shoes made of such leather are more durable and therefore good in wet and dirty weather (provided that you do not wear the same shoes for two days in a row and take care of them). Shoes and boots, as well as bags and belts are made from grained leather. Read more about grainy leather.

Vegetable tanned leather / vegetable tanned leather. Leather that has been tanned without the use of chemicals. Typically more expensive than chemically treated. It often looks better and feels nicer. All things being equal, vegetable tanned is a clear plus. However, it should be remembered that products made from such leather can quickly acquire scuffs and slightly change color in places, acquiring a "patina of time", which not everyone likes. Yes, and you need to handle such things carefully.

Vachetta leather. Minimally processed leather. Of course, we are not talking about any chemicals. It looks beautiful, feels good and quickly acquires a patina. Gentle, requires careful handling, does not tolerate contact with water and dirt. It is used for the production of bags, belts, some leather accessories. Not for daily use. Such products are presented in the Berg & Berg store.

Split... It is made from the bottom layer of the hide, which is adjacent to the flesh and is valued less than the top one. Suede is often made from split leather, and its quality can be quite decent, although sometimes it is terrible (a lot depends on the raw material and the method of processing). In addition, prints and different coatings are sometimes applied to the split in order to obtain a surface with the required texture. This kind of "skin" usually leaves a lot to be desired. More information about the split was described in.

Velours It is usually made from split wood and has a slightly fuzzy surface. The face of the velor is the "inner" part of the skin (the one that once came into contact with the flesh); accordingly, skins with defects on the outside / splits are usually used for its production.

Suede... Slightly fluffy, rather soft and velvety to the touch skin. By the way of dressing, classic suede differs from velor, however velor is often called suede. In Western countries, the term suede is used to denote what is called velor in classical Russian terminology, and chamois is used to denote what is called chamois in the same terminology.

Suede suede is most often made from split leather, but sometimes full-grain suede is also found. It costs a lot more and is mainly used for expensive / very expensive shoes. It has a finer, more refined and silky pile and is more pleasant to the touch.

High-quality suede - the material is quite durable and, with proper care, can last a long time. For water and dirt resistance, it can be treated with special impregnations; To remove dirt, use special suede brushes, erasers and liquid cleansers.

Keep in mind that there are quite a few faux suede shoes and clothing on sale.

Nubuck... It is made of leather type (the top layer of the hide), the front surface of which has been sanded to obtain a velvety, slightly fleecy surface.

The best nubuck is durable and has good breathability. A special subspecies of nubuck - nubuck oil- treated with a special impregnation, which makes it resistant to water. Nubuck oil is less moody and more durable than regular nubuck. Overall, quality nubuck can be a good choice for casual shoes and some accessories.

Patent leather... Ordinary smooth leather is covered with a special product on top, now it is often a special plastic / polyurethane. Patent leather requires special care. It is advisable to wear products made from it only at temperatures from -10 to +25 degrees and only in dry weather. Low air permeability, feet may sweat.

Shoes made of high-quality patent leather usually look beautiful and strict, have a noble shine, but it is customary to wear them only with a tuxedo and tailcoat (when it comes to men's shoes; there are no such restrictions for women).

Antique / Patinated leather... Artificially aged leather. It can look very noble and beautiful, and maybe frankly cheap. It all depends on the quality of processing, the talents of the master, the substances used. The best patinated leather shoes are usually very expensive. And one more thing: patina is good in moderation.

Nappa leather... Specially processed leather, it is distinguished by high elasticity, softness, smoothness, shine and very even color. Nappa is durable and not very expensive; can look both strict and informal depending on the color. For example, leather jackets and gloves, both for women and men, are made from it. If you like this look, then the option is good. Read more about nappa.

There are many varieties of leather. Each variety has certain characteristics, features that are worth knowing even before the time of purchase. So, some types of leather are short-lived, others require careful maintenance, and still others are often counterfeited. In this article I will consider all the more or less common types of leather. First, the main features of the skins of different animals will be described, then - different methods of dressing. In the end, let's summarize.

Different animal skins

Pigskin- the cheapest. Used to make the most budget shoes and linings. Cheap leather jackets are made from it. Pig skin products are very short-lived, they have increased water absorption (it gets wet through!). In my opinion, it is better to pay more and get a better quality jacket / shoes.

Bovine leather (bovine leather)- also relatively inexpensive. It is very thick, tough and durable; serves for a long time, much longer than pork, practically does not get wet. It is used for making casual belts, some bags, backpacks and jackets.

Cow's skin more expensive but looks better. True, she is also quite tough. Most of the inexpensive and mid-range footwear is made from it. The durability is high, but slightly lower than that of calfskin.

Calfskin differs in softness and high strength. This is not surprising, because the skin of young animals is softer. Calfskin is more expensive than cowhide; shoes, bags, jackets are made from it. There are practically no creases on it. Often, "crocodile", "monitor lizard", "snake" leather is made from calfskin by means of embossing. It's kind of a fake, but not the lowest-level one where crocodile leather is imitated by cheap leatherette.

Sheep skin also soft, durable and expensive. It is used for the manufacture of bags, jackets, gloves, belts - mostly premium.

Sheep leather bag (Chanel)

Goat skin... Soft, dense, durable. Looks great. Also quite expensive. Used to make expensive gloves, wallets, wallets and similar accessories.

The skin of kids and lambs even softer and more expensive.

Deer skin... Beautiful and noble in appearance; retains heat very well. Very durable, good shape retention. Soft and pleasant to the touch. But buckskin products are expensive and rarely on sale.

Crocodile skin very expensive, goes only for luxury items. Crocodile leather shoes usually cost from $ 1,000, in Moscow a more realistic price is 50,000 rubles for one pair or more. The average price is probably already approaching 100,000, but this, as you probably guess, is far from the limit. The advantages of crocodile leather are excellent and original appearance, as well as a very long service life (with proper care, products can serve their owner for decades). Since crocodile leather is very expensive, products made from it are usually of very high quality, they are carefully made by hand.

Crocodile Leather Shoes (Zilli)

Crocodile skin can be divided into several categories: caiman skin (it is the cheapest, but tough and less durable), crocodile itself (it is more expensive and better) and alligator (even more expensive, truly crazy money). If you think that the skin is obtained from wild animals, then you are wrong: crocodiles are raised on special farms. Leather is expensive because, firstly, during its life the crocodile eats a lot of meat (it is expensive to feed it), and secondly, crocodile skin is difficult and difficult to process. And thirdly, such leather is very durable and beautiful, it looks noble. In general, the above reasons are due to its luxury.

Snake skin also very expensive, but generally cheaper than crocodile. Snakeskin shoes, if you try, you can buy "only" dollars for 400. Mostly python skin is used, less often cobra. The appearance can be described as interesting and original.

Snakeskin bag (Carlos Falchi)

Lizard skin looks great too. (By the way, the monitor lizard is not a snake, but a giant lizard). It is rarely used.

Ostrich skin... Very beautiful and original texture, a little voluminous. Ostrich leather is very soft and elastic; it is used for making shoes, jackets, raincoats and luxury accessories. (By the way, ostriches, like crocodiles, are bred on special farms). The quality is the highest, higher than that of crocodile leather.

Ostrich leather bag (Prada)

Finally, it is worth mentioning one more luxury leather - stingray skin... It is distinguished by a very specific pattern. The wear resistance is very high. Stingray leather products are quite rare on sale.

Types of leather depending on the method of processing

Leathers dressed in different ways can be very different from each other. Moreover, leathers made in the same way, but in different countries, by different firms, may also differ. According to many, leather is best processed in Italy. Here we will not touch on the details of the methods and traditions characteristic of different countries, but consider the main features of the leathers that have undergone one or another treatment.

Smooth skin... The most common leather, it is from it that most of the shoes and accessories are made. It is enough to just take care of it, it is durable and durable. Special technologies (used by manufacturers such as Geox and Ecco) make shoes made of smooth leather waterproof while maintaining breathability.

Smooth Leather Shoes (Barker)

Sanded leather, split leather, split velor... It differs from smooth skin in that the uppermost (superficial) layer has been removed. Usually, skins of poor quality are used for grinding, with cosmetic defects that are eliminated during the grinding process. Another option is that the removable face layer is used for the production of high-quality goods, and the lower (more precisely, the middle layer) is used for the production of cheap shoes. Such leather is less wear-resistant and is used for making budget footwear.

Split / Brushed Leather Shoes (ZARA)

Velours- in general, this is polished leather, more precisely, its subspecies with a fine-fleecy surface. Capricious and very short-lived material. Not resistant to water and dirt.

Patent leather... Regular smooth leather is covered with a special varnish on top. Patent leather requires special care. Products made from it can only be worn at temperatures from -10 to +25 degrees and only in dry weather. Low air permeability, feet may sweat.

Lacquered shoes (Fabi)

Patent leather shoes usually look beautiful, have a noble shine, but, again, it is very easy to spoil this beauty with improper care. However, subject to the rules, patent leather shoes will last no less than any other.

It is worth remembering that the quality of lacquered shoes directly depends on the quality of the lacquer itself and the conscientiousness of the manufacturer. Chinese patent leather goods are usually much worse than Italian ones. For example, they can easily scratch, while Italian varnish is much stronger.

Antik... Artificially aged leather. It looks very noble. Products made from such leather are expensive.

Nappa... Specially processed leather of cattle, which is distinguished by high plasticity, softness and very even color. Long-lasting, but not very expensive. For example, leather jackets are made from it.

Nappa leather jacket

Suede leather... Thin, soft and velvety to the touch. Excellent air permeability, feet in suede boots breathe well. There are different types of suede, they differ from each other in length and softness of the pile. Suede is a rather durable material, but delicate: it requires special care and accuracy. On average, suede products last less than smooth leather products. Keep in mind that there are quite a few faux suede shoes and clothing on the market. It is also sometimes passed off as suede velor, which is much worse in quality.

Suede boots (Ecco)

Nubuck... Fine fleecy leather of cattle (cow or calf), similar to suede. Also velvety to the touch. Good breathability. Nubuck is strong, but not as durable as classic smooth leather. Requires special care. A special subspecies of nubuck - nubuck oil- treated with a special impregnation, which makes it resistant to water. Nubuck oil is less moody and more durable than regular nubuck.