How to join lace on the hem of a dress. How to sew lace to the hem of a dress. Combining lace and knitted fabrics

04.07.2020

There are 4 master classes in this article:

1. Hemming on fine fabrics
2. Stitches for sewing silk fabrics
3. Seams on p / e lace fabric
4. Technology of sewing velvet devore

1. Hemming on fine fabrics

There are several ways to hem the edge of silk, cambric, chiffon products.

Sew a straight edge with a Moscow seam

Fold back and iron the fabric edge 5 mm on the wrong side. Place a straight stitch close to the ironed fold. We select threads exactly in color.

Iron on the hem. We bend the edge again to the wrong side and sew again, hitting the needle exactly in the first line. Iron the seam again.

Sew the concave edge with a Moscow seam

This method is suitable for armholes, necklines, when a product made of thin fabric does not want to be made heavier by processing. On samples imitation of the armhole of the shelf on five types of fabric: cotton gauze, thick suit cotton, linen, cambric and chiffon.

We sew with the help of a special foot, which successfully replaces the hemming "snails" used in production.

First line we lay with the main foot at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the edge.

Second line we lay with the help of a special foot 0.2 cm from the fold (fold - according to the first line made earlier). If necessary, we slightly cut the fabric, not reaching the line in especially concave areas. Then, cut off the allowance close to the second line (the rightmost sample is pink).

We do WTO(wet heat treatment) the concave section by pulling it back. Then, turn the edge by 0.3 cm and patch up. We do not notice straight and curved sections, if experience allows.

Third line we sew with the help of a special foot, stepping back 0.2 cm from the edge. The second line and the basting can then be deleted. Steam the edge without stretching it.
The stitching on the armhole in the area of the shoulder seam, made on the wrong side, will look sloppy. Therefore, if there are transverse seams, we do the third line on the front side. If there are no transverse seams, we do the third line on the wrong side.

On the front side, the edge turns out to be beautiful, not stretched during wear. Likewise, you can hem a raised hem at the hem of a flared skirt.

Sew the edge with a zig-zag seam

This method is used to process, usually, the edges of the scarf or shawl, but sometimes the edge of the product (sleeve, hem of the skirt). Fold back and iron the fabric edge 7-10 mm on the wrong side. Wrap the fold with a dense zigzag.

Iron on the stitched edge. Using scissors with sharp tips, trim the seam allowance as close to the stitching as possible without damaging the threads.

The result is a smooth, beautifully finished edge. This seam can be used to hem silk clothes, the hem of a light summer dress, flounces on thin and delicate fabrics, scarves and shawls. On sharp corners, such a line cannot be completed without interrupting the seam. Therefore, we leave long threads at the ends of the stitch, after hemming all the seams, pull the threads into the needle and thread them into the seam.

The article was prepared based on the materials of the forum topics Milo Album, March 8 Album. We thank the authors for the photographic materials and detailed MK.

2. Stitches for sewing silk fabrics

Thin silks and transparent silk chiffons are sewn both by hand and on a sewing machine. Choose a very fine and sharp needle # 60-70. Machine stitch length should not exceed 2 mm, otherwise the seam will be ugly.

Moscow seam

Above, there is a detailed description of the processing of the edge of the product with a Moscow seam. A nuisance can arise on silk fabrics: the foot is chewing on the material. To prevent this from happening, we use thin newsprint, which can be easily removed after the seam is stitched. This technique is especially effective at the corners of the part.

French seam

The second name of the French seam is double inverted. It looks elegant and does not spoil the appearance of the product, while the overlock of thin and transparent silks looks rough.

Sew the details on the front side, cut the seam allowances to 0.5 cm.

We turn the seam to the wrong side, iron it and stitch it, stepping back from the edge 0.6 cm.
The cut will remain sealed in the seam - it will look neat on the front and back of the garment.
Tip: you can slightly wet the edge of the cut with water, passing it between wet fingers, then the frizzy threads of the fabric will not stick out from the seam on the front side of the product.

We direct the allowances of the two French seams at the intersection in different directions.

If there are no sleeves in the silk product, first we process the cuts of the armholes and only then sew the side cuts with a French seam. This sequence will keep all seams clean and beautiful.

Seam seam

We put the parts right sides to each other and grind along the marked seam line. Iron the allowances to one side.

Cut the lower stock by 2/3 of the total stock. We bend the upper allowance and, having wrapped the lower one, we sew. For a smoother edge, you can use a guide stitch along the top allowance.

With this type of seam, there is no stitching on the front side of the garment, as with a normal seam.

Processing of armholes on silk in a garment with a sleeve

Sewing a sleeve into the armhole with a French seam is sometimes difficult and requires experience. Using the elastic soft mesh, you can process the cut of the armhole with piping when the sleeve is already sewn in. The processing of the seam with a mesh is more aesthetic than overlock and will not spoil the appearance of even a transparent product.

Silk edge trim

There are a lot of types of silk - they differ in density, transparency, shine, method of twisting the thread and weaving it in the canvas. Choose the treatment that best suits the silk in question.
The simplest and most accessible is shown on the example of a sleeve cut.

Put the binding cut along the bias at the bottom of the cut. We attach, passing the corner very close to the cut. We bend around the seam allowance with an inlay, apply it, iron it on and attach the edging.

There are many ways to sew silk fabrics. Each time, choose one or another type of processing thoughtfully, having previously tried it on a flap.

The article was prepared based on the materials provided by lily-56, we thank the author for a detailed MC.

3. Seams on p / e lace fabric

Thin polyethylene lace fabric is used, as a rule, in the form of the top layer of elegant clothes. On the dress based on Etro motifs, devore viscose jersey was chosen as a companion. In the process of sewing parts in our example, three types of seams are used: joining lace with lace, with knitwear and edge processing. Flesh-colored elastic lining is connected to the dress only along the neckline. She serves as a background in all photographs in the article.

French stitch on lace fabric

Before starting work, we put a universal needle No. 80 and adjust the tension of the threads, sewing the sample on the lunge of the cut. The seam should not tighten the two layers of stitched lace.

The French stitch is described in detail above in the article Stitches for sewing silk fabrics.
1. Sew two layers of lace fabric from the front side.
2. Cut off the allowance close to the line.
3. Turn the seam to the wrong side and sew it 0.5-0.7 cm from the previous seam.

We iron out the seams.

Combining lace and knitted fabrics

Important! The seam according to the algorithm below is possible only on p / e lace.
We sew the lace detail along the contour of the pattern. Make sure that the stitching does not pull the fabric.

We trim the allowance to a width of 0.8 cm from the line.

We melt the edge of the allowance with a lighter or over a candle. Be sure to try on an unnecessary patch to adjust the distance from the cut of the fabric to the fire.

According to the pattern, we fix the allowance for the knitted part.

We put the lace detail on the knitted one. Combine the stitching on the lace with the chalk line on the knitwear, securing the layers with pins.

We stitch the details, entering the needle exactly into the line on the lace. Pay attention to the translucent allowance of the knitted part, further we will work with it.

We turn off the allowance for the knitted part so that it is not visible from the front side. We pass the zigzag stitch along the previously laid straight lines. We cut the knitted allowance from the seamy side without damaging the stitching.
Important! The width and length of the stitch of the zigzag stitch are selected empirically specifically for your lace, sewing samples.

View from the front side of several parts, sewn with the seams described above.

Processing an open cut of lace fabric

This method is used for processing the edge, it can be the bottom of the dress and the flounce of the sleeve. After processing, the edge becomes similar to the edge of the fabric. We sew the detail, stepping back from the edge to the width of the allowance, making sure that the line does not pull the fabric. Then we go through the same line again with a ziggzag line and trim the allowance close to the line.

We melt the cut.

The article was prepared specially for the Sezon website. We are grateful to the author of MK lily-56 for the photo of the process.

4. Technology of sewing velvet devore

Modern technologies for the production of fabrics make it much easier to work with them. Chiffon-based velvet is now produced with such a composition of threads that it can be decated in any way and ironed with steam from the wrong side.
If you have an antique “pan-velvet” in your stock, work with an iron with steam is possible only on the seamy side on a velvet, cardo tape or terry towel backing.
On a piece, be sure to check how your fabric behaves during an OBE before starting to work with it.

In our example, we used devore velvet from the project "Velvet dress inspired by Valentino."

The composition of the fabric is 50% natural silk, 50% viscose. The fabric is decated, after which it is processed by the sizing method, which is described in detail in the article. The photo shows the fabric after decating and processing. It did not lose its plasticity, but it acquired the necessary stability, which greatly facilitated the cut.

Duplicating devore velvet parts

Duplication of velvet parts with adhesive materials is undesirable. One way is to duplicate with thin knitwear. We cut out the parts that we duplicate from the knitwear, fold the velvet and knitted parts, circle the pattern with chalk and sweep them away.

We sew knitted and velvet parts to the width of the allowance. Cut off close to the line and overcast the cuts. Then we work with each duplicated part as with a single layer.

We sew and iron out the details of the product.

Organza Ribbon Edge Finishing

A straight cut of velvet can be processed with a ready-made organza tape 1 cm wide.We attach the tape from the front side, aligning the edge of the tape and the cut. Sew along the edge of the tape located farther from the cut. Cut the fabric to half the width of the tape.

Bend the tape to the wrong side and mark or pin it with pins. We attach the tape along the second side.

Processing the neckline and armholes with bias tape

Sew the finished bias tape to the neckline without bending anything on the tape. We sew, stepping back from the edge to the width of one folded edge of the inlay.

We bend the inlay to the front side and stretch the seam to the edge, while sewing on all the allowances.

Lay the second line over the duplicate layer. If not, sew the second side of the inlay to the main part.

The neck is finished with bias tape.

Internal slices

The cut of Devore velvet is prone to strong shedding. When sewn, it looks ugly due to the heterogeneity of the fabric in thickness. Therefore, it is best to use a linen seam, or as it is also called - French. We strengthen the dart with an organza tape, in this case it can be overcast with an overlock.

We thank the author of the project lily-56 for MK and the choice of fabric in our store.

Lace is a classic piece of clothing that never goes out of style.

With the help of a ribbon with intricate patterns, you can decorate a dress, make it especially elegant. And with its help, it will be possible to make changes to the model of clothing, to lengthen the product. For this, both natural lace and patterned fabrics made of synthetic fibers are suitable. Specialized sewing shops offer a wide range of lace fabrics, so clothes can simply be lengthened by a few centimeters. You can also turn a mid-length outfit into a floor-length model.

Important! Lace can be used to work with all types of fabrics except woolen. It is difficult to achieve a harmonious combination of woolen and openwork fabric; in most cases, a thin finishing fabric looks ridiculous on a woolen dress.

It is not necessary to go to a sewing workshop to update clothes. Having become familiar with the technology, rules and advice of experienced craftswomen, you can do the work yourself.

Advice! In order for the trim to look beautiful on a suit, the fabrics must match in color or be contrasting as much as possible. For multi-colored fabrics, decorative patterns are chosen to match one of the main colors of the dress.

What tools will be required to work

To transform a dress, in addition to it and a lace fabric or ribbon matched to the product, you will need to prepare:

scissors;
a needle and thread or pins for sweeping;
sewing machine.

Operating procedure

The work procedure consists of several stages.

The main algorithm for decorating clothes:

Work options

There are different ways to sew openwork to the bottom edge of a women's or children's outfit. The difference will be the type of lace sewn on. The trim fabric may lie flat or form gathers.

The usual way of sewing on lace

In order for the lace fabric to lie flat, without gathers, it is enough to use the basic algorithm for sewing lace to the product. Openwork is placed on the fabric with an overlap. Carefully lay out the details, making sure that the trim does not tighten the hem of the garment.

After basting, the machine stitch is performed with a regular seam or "zigzag".

Reference! Experts advise using a zigzag stitch when working with patterned fabric, which will carefully and reliably connect the lace to the dress and prevent the lace trim from stretching.

Lace ruffles

Lace ruffles look beautiful on light dresses made of cotton or silk. Such garment decoration requires preliminary work with openwork fabric.

Operating procedure:

On the finishing material prepared for work, a seam is made with large stitches. It is better to do the work on a machine, so the assemblies will be more accurate.
When using wide lace, it is best to make two seams a little apart from each other. In this case, the gathering is formed on the entire pattern, and not only in its upper part.
The edges of the threads are not fixed, but slightly pulled in different directions so that assemblies appear on the material. The work is done carefully so as not to damage the canvas. If a double seam is made on the lace, the action is performed simultaneously with two threads.
The gathered patterns are connected to the edge of the skirt with a basting seam, trying to maintain the uniformity of the gathering.
Machine zigzag stitching is performed.

Lace folds

Additional puffiness can be added to the outfit by using diaper folds.

Several types of folds can be made from lace:

Regular: The fabric is wrapped to one side.
Counter: the fabric is folded on both sides, towards each other.
Bow: the canvas is also folded from two sides, but in a different direction: from each other.

The appearance of the folds will not affect the sequence of actions.

Operating procedure:

Folds of one of three types are laid on the finishing cloth. They are made evenly, trying not to disturb the elements of the pattern.
The folds can first be laid on the lace, and then basted and sewn to the dress. Experienced needlewomen do the work at the same time. Having made a fold, they immediately mark or pin the finishing fabric to the product, and then sew it on a typewriter.

How to sew on lace sewing

Sewing is one of the varieties of natural lace. It features a raw edge on one side of the canvas. The uniqueness of the fabric has changed the course of work.

Operating procedure:

The dress is turned inside out.
An unprocessed sewing edge is sewn to the hem of the garment, releasing the patterns behind the dress.
They adjust the machine to any decorative seam, connect the main and decorative details of the product with it.
The excess part of the raw fabric is cut off, the sewing cut is processed.

Before working with lace, you need to wet it, dry it and iron it from the wrong side. You can also moisten the fabric with a steam iron. This will help to avoid shrinkage of the material in the future.
The color of the threads used for sewing depends on which fabric is top. If the lace is on the dress, the threads should match the color of the lace. For the fabric located on top of the lace detail, choose threads in the color of the dress.
When working with a jersey, the lace is sewn not by machine, but by hand.
Finishing material with a curly edge is also sewn to the garment by hand.

Lace is a sophisticated material for a sophisticated lengthening of the dress.

Sometimes there is something in the wardrobe - almost new, but not loved and therefore not worn. What to do with it if it is a pity to throw it away? You can decorate it with lace, and it will "sparkle" in a new way. How to update clothes with lace with your own hands will be discussed further. Lace is the easiest way to decorate any wardrobe detail and make it new.

Clothes, be it a dress, skirt or blouse with lace trim, are suitable as a festive option, as well as for every day, if a woman is used to looking always great.

How to update a blouse with lace

Sew a lace strip over the top of the blouse. On the chest, instead of a yoke, on the back, along the bottom of the blouse, along the edges of the sleeves - everywhere a strip of lace will add elegance, and a nondescript blouse will become more interesting. Even a shirt is suitable for this purpose.

Lace inserts on the cuffs of a formal shirt look amazing

The strip can be sewn onto the blouse both vertically and horizontally

All the charm of the outfit is in small lace details. Lace back insert - just shine!

Pay attention to the combination of colors of the blouse and lace, to the texture of the fabric (it will be better if the blouse is made of a simple plain material). A contrasting combination of shades of a blouse and lace looks very beautiful.

The second option is to sew in lace. You need to cut the blouse and sew in a lace strip: along the entire length of the front shelf or along the back, on the sides of the blouse. Sleeves with lace in the middle also look pretty. We decorate the blouse with lace along the edge of the neckline, having previously made the cutout of the blouse a little deeper.

Here are a few more options. For example, sew lace with an overlap on the fabric.

For lightweight fabrics, use other sheer fabrics such as organza instead of lace.

Lace insert can be used on the back, neckline, sleeves, and shoulders

Lace on pockets and cuffs

You can leave only the main part of the blouse, and replace the top (yoke) with lace, since now you can find very wide lace stripes in stores or you can use guipure fabric. You can even take a T-shirt as a basis.

With the help of lace, you can create an optical illusion - visually reduce the waist and emphasize the chest, as is done on this dress.

Contrast lace top, black belt accentuated the outfit

Lace collars, cuffs add femininity and charm to the image

You can update a T-shirt or blouse with your own hands by sewing lace in several rows - flirty and festive.

Lace ruffles on the neckline are a good option for reworking a blouse or dress.

How to update your skirt with lace

With the help of lace, you can update any detail of your wardrobe, including a skirt. Apart from transforming the skirt, this is a great way to lengthen or expand it. The easiest option is to sew a strip of lace to the hem of your skirt. A more difficult option is to sew in a lace trimmed petticoat. Lace will coquettishly show through the bottom of the skirt.

The wavy edge of the skirt combined with lace looks amazing and very original!

How to transform old jeans with lace

Lace inserts on jeans are another way to make a statement. Lace can be simply sewn on top, sewn on the sides or lace torn holes can be closed.

We hope our ideas have inspired you to rework! Getting a new and original thing is much easier than it seems - you just need to show imagination and put a little work into it. Share ideas with your friends, they will love it!

Openwork sewing and lace inserts are exquisite products that attract admiring glances. Airy blouses, wedding dresses, underwear and even lace-trimmed shorts look unusual and interesting. Despite the originality, openwork and lace sewing belongs to the materials, during the work with which many problems arise. Even experienced needlewomen think about how to sew lace with their own hands and not spoil the product. In this article, we will take a closer look at this issue.

Read the simple guidelines before sewing. They will help you make sewing easier and keep your fabric in top condition:

Rinse the lace fabric in hot water to avoid shrinking the lace trim after washing.
Sew lace fabrics to dress or other garment using zigzag stitches. This will help to avoid excessive pulling and damage to the fabric during wear.
Hand wash lace fabric. After rinsing, try not to wring out, but to dry in a more gentle way. Place the fabric on a soft, flat surface, wrong side up. Let the material dry for 10-15 minutes. Then gently iron the fabric. This is a simple technique that will help keep the lace fabric beautiful and embossed.
Before, how to sew lace yourself, carefully consider the choice of thread. They should have the same shade as the lace trim. If you plan to use the lining method, match the thread to the color of the garment.
An important point is the amount of fabric that will be used for sewing. If you will be sewing a lace insert to the hem of a dress, lay the garment on the floor, and then carefully measure its bottom line. Multiply the resulting number by 2, then add another 3 centimeters to the seams that are on the right and left sides. The resulting number means the amount of fabric that you have to buy.

How to sew lace with your own hands: basic tools

Before starting work, prepare the tools:

Needles;
Threads matched to the color of clothing or lace;
Lace fabric;
Tailoring scissors (regular scissors can also be used).

Sewing lace by hand is a rather laborious process, so along with the rest of the tools, you will need a little patience.

How to sew lace by hand: step by step instructions

Question, how to sew lace with your own hands, occurs when the tissue is very thin and delicate. Any sudden movement made by the sewing machine or seamstress can cause the lace to break and not look attractive enough. Below we will tell you how to sew lace by hand and keep the product attractive:

Take the garment you want to sew on and place it face up. Apply trim to the selected area, trimming under the seam line.
Process a seam allowance - carefully trim this section of fabric to 5mm.
Roll the seam allowance into a tube. Thread the needle and start sewing. Stitch over the edge, gently fixing the lace to the surface of the garment.
Cut off the basting.

If you need to lace to a previously trimmed edge, attach the trim to the fabric and join the edges of the lace trim and linen together. Sew the sections with small stitches with a small gap between them.

How to sew lace yourself with bow folds

To do this, you will need a piece of fabric with a repeating pattern. Fold the fabric to create opposite or regular spaces, then secure with neat stitches, basting them over the edge of the garment.

The lace can be sewn along the yoke line. Please note that this must be done at regular intervals. You can choose the type of seam convenient for you - a classic stitch or a line drawn in the form of a zigzag.

To sew individual lace elements to each other, attach them to each other, mark the seam line and leave a small margin so that the decorative elements overlap each other slightly. Then secure the pieces of fabric with pins and sew with a zigzag stitch. An ordinary seam will turn out to be ugly and will look like "cutting" the ornament, so it is not recommended to use it.

Hello, friends!

Not so long ago, a reader asked me a question -

Surely, this topic is relevant for those who have never come across such material.

At first glance, working with lace is not much different from working with other fabrics.

But there are some rules that must be followed in order for a lace product to turn out to be of high quality and pleasing to the eye not only of the owner, but also of those around them.

I propose today to discuss in more detail the answer to the question -

The lace fabric must be prepared for cutting!

If it is not necessary (the piece of cloth is clean), it is better not to wash the lace, but simply iron it with an iron to form steam or through a damp iron. After all, lace is a delicate material and should be handled accordingly.

Now, basically, all fabrics in the process of processing are impregnated with special compounds to give them certain properties: wrinkle resistance, gloss or dullness, reduce electrification, etc. During washing, these impregnations are gradually washed off and the material loses its presentation.

Of course, if you "got" a piece of lace from the "grandmother's chest", and even from, most likely, you will have to wash it and only by hand!

By the way, there is one proven recommendation from “grandmother's times” on the method of washing lace - put the lace in a closed container (jar, bottle, etc.) with warm water and soapy water. After that, you need to gently shake the container for several minutes.

When cutting, you need to use the details of the product not in half, but in full size and lay them out using the curly edges of the canvas, if any. For more on this, see the video below.

Stitching seams on a lace fabric and processing cuts can be done in different ways:

Zigzag stitching- stitch the lace detail onto the main detail with a zigzag stitch, cut off the fabric, leaving an allowance of 3-4 mm.

Stitch the lace in two pieces along the marked lines with a zigzag stitch or straight stitch, iron the allowances for the main parts, cut off the material allowance.

Double stitch lace, cut off allowances up to 2-4 mm., iron on details or lace, if the texture allows.

Stitch with a cover stitch or fake stitch(fold the lace with the material, sew on the overlock with a three-thread seam, pull the overlock seam flat to simulate a cover-up seam and iron it out).

For other methods of processing seams and cuts on lace, see the video below:

Lace fabric delicate material, but you don't need to be afraid to work with him. Certain knowledge, dexterity, sewing skill will allow you to sew beautiful lace outfits.

You can start with a light lace trim, or redo a finished piece to practice your skills, and then move on to “global” items like a wedding dress.

Try different processing methods, sew using lace braid, practice sewing from lace fabric as often as possible, and then you will not have a question -

I wish you good luck, Elena Krasovskaya!

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