Gradation of patterns - designing the contours of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on patterns of medium-sized products.

The height gradation is based on the intergrowth intervals established using anthropometric measurements of the human figure.

One of the requirements for the process and methods of graduation is the preservation of the technical characteristics of clothing models that they received during the design and manufacture.

When analyzing the quality of samples, the designs of which were obtained by gradation methods, the following factors are analyzed:

The fit of the product as a whole,

The position of the main construction lines,

Maintains the silhouette and proportions expected for medium height,

Preservation of model features.

There are three ways of grading patterns:

Ray,

Grouping method,

Proportional-calculated.

The essence of the ray method is that after transferring the contours of the patterns to paper from a certain point of the part, rays are passed through all the most important design points of the given part, on which the increments are deposited. The resulting points are sequentially connected to each other, drawing similar contours of a larger or smaller size.

Grading patterns by grouping requires two sets of patterns of different sizes: medium and large, or medium and small. Patterns of parts of both sizes are sequentially transferred to paper, their contours are outlined, while always combining the basic horizontal and vertical lines. Constructive points of the same name on the aligned patterns are connected by straight lines and divided into the number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes +1. The resulting points of each size are sequentially connected to each other in the same way as the lines of the main structure.

The most widespread in the garment industry is the proportional-calculation method of gradation. The essence of this method is that the design points of the patterns are moved horizontally and vertically in accordance with changes in the dimensional characteristics of the human body and the positions of the dividing lines.

The construction of drawings of the gradation is performed in the following sequence:

On each piece of clothing of the original size, the baselines and the origin of the gradation are determined;

Set and designate the gradation point;

From each point, the gradations of the original size are laid in the direction of the coordinates of the magnitude of the gradation;

The final points of the graded dimensions are found as the sum of two vectors - the diagonal of the parallelogram, the sides of which are increments to the given size of the part;

The corresponding points of the obtained size are connected and the contour of the clothing part is obtained.

The original lines and points affect the magnitude of the displacement vector of construction lines and points and remain for all sizes and heights.

When choosing origin points and lines, the following requirements should be taken into account:

Baselines and points should be the same for the corresponding parts of men's, women's and children's clothing;

They must ensure the minimum increment of the most difficult curved sections of the structure.

The change in the size of the patterns of the details of clothing is associated with a change in the dimensional characteristics of the typical physique. Therefore, the rules for determining the size of clothing parts during gradation are based on the patterns of change in subordinate dimensional characteristics, depending on the change in leading dimensional characteristics.

Considering these regularities, when grading clothing parts by size, the linear dimensions of the parts change both in the transverse and longitudinal directions. With the gradation of the patterns of clothing parts by height, some linear dimensions of the parts change only in the longitudinal direction, neglecting the transverse increments due to their small value.

The original horizontal increments for the size grading are the interdimensional differences along the chest, waist, and hips. The distribution of the interdimensional difference should be made in proportion to the dimensions of the parts.

The gradation of small parts depends on their location in the product, on the size of the part and is decided specifically for each model.

In this graduation project, the gradation of the following details is performed:

1. The central part of the front of the jacket

2. The side of the front of the jacket

3. The central part of the back of the jacket

4. The side of the back of the jacket

5. Bottom of the sleeve

6. Upper part of the sleeve

7. Cuff

8. The central part of the front of the dress

9. The side of the front of the dress

10. The central part of the back of the dress

11. The side of the back of the dress

Drawing up a table of measurements of patterns templates and finished products

To draw up a timesheet, it is necessary to establish basic and additional measurements for clothes of various cuts and divisions, as well as the maximum deviation from the nominal basic measurement values ​​of finished products according to regulatory and technical documentation.

For shoulder products, there are nine basic commensurate measurements of the human body:

Back length;

The distance at which the width of the back is measured;

The width of the product at the level of the depth of the armhole;

The distance at which the front width is measured;

Front or shelf width;

Front length;

The length of the sleeve;

Sleeve width;

Collar length (product with fastening to the top).

There are 3 dimensions for waist products:

For the skirt:

Skirt length;

The width of the skirt at the waist and hips;

For trousers:

Side seam length;

Half belt length or waist width;

Width at the bottom.

Other measurements may be included in the list of measurements, taking into account the model features.

Table 10. Measurements of patterns templates and finished product

	Measurement locations	Size, cm
measurement of patterns	measurement of allowances	finished product measurement
	Back length: along the middle of the back from the seam of the stitching in the collar to the bottom of the product		collar stitching seam - 1.0 hem hem - 3.0 processing - 0.5
	Back width: between the seams where the sleeves are sewn in at the narrowest point at a distance of 15 cm from the seam where the sleeves are sewn into the neck		sleeve stitching seam - 1.0 relief seam - 2.0 middle seam - 1.0 processing - 0.1
	The width of the product at the level of the depth of the armhole: from the edge of the side to the middle of the back		middle seam -1.0 relief seams -4.0 turning the bead with a pick - 1.0 side seams-2.0 Earning - 0.7
	The width of the product along the waist line from the edge of the bead to the middle of the back		middle seam - 1.0 embossed seams - 4.0 turning the bead with a pick - 1.0 side seams-2.0 earning - 0.7

Mens denim pants

graduate work

5.4 Gradation of pieces by size and height

In the recommendations of modeling organizations and individual fashion designers, we never see the attachment of a model to one size and height. Most often, the model belongs to the group of sizes and heights, taking into account the age influence. The design and the corresponding set of patterns are developed for one size and height. You can get a set of patterns for products of all sizes and heights recommended by the artist-fashion designer for a given model or for all sizes and heights of the basic design within the full size, or even age group, using the gradation of patterns.

Graduation is the process of designing a set of patterns for clothing parts of various sizes and heights based on patterns of medium-sized and tall items of a product. The essence of the gradation process is to increase or decrease the linear dimensions of the original patterns.

There are several ways of grading patterns:

Ray,

Grouping method,

Proportional-calculated,

With the help of a computer.

Ray - the method consists in the fact that from a certain point of the structure (and sometimes a point outside the structure) called the focus, straight lines - rays are drawn through the main design points. An increment is plotted from the contour of the original part along these rays, and the contours of parts of the required size are drawn using new points. Most often, the ray method is used for the gradation of patterns for parts of hats, since this method is most accurate for parts close to regular geometric shapes.

Groupings - make two sets of patterns for parts (most often for medium and extreme sizes) and combine patterns of the same name along one or two lines. After that, the structural points of the same name are connected by straight lines, and the resulting segments are divided by the number of intermediate dimensions. Thus, constructive points of intermediate dimensions are obtained, as well as an increment from size to size. By connecting the corresponding points, the contours of the patterns of intermediate sizes are obtained. Most often, this method is used for the gradation of patterns for clothing details of complex models.

The most widespread is the proportional-calculated method of gradation.

Proportional-calculated - for each part, depending on its design, the main vertical and horizontal are selected. All design points of the part are moved parallel to the main ones by certain increments. The magnitude of the increment is directly related to the variability of dimensional characteristics. The values ​​of the increments were obtained by compiling calculation tables with subsequent verification of the calculation data by constructing construction drawings and combining them. Dimensional features of typical figures change with an increase or decrease in size and height by a constant (for each feature) value. The growth variability of those dimensional features that determine the width of the product and the main structural sections is small compared to the allowances for free fitting. Therefore, for some types of products, it becomes possible to abandon the laborious process of grading patterns by height, which can significantly reduce the pattern economy of enterprises. In this case, the gradation of patterns by height is reduced to the movement of the waist line and the bottom of the product and the sleeve.

At present, the use of computers with plotters facilitates and simplifies the work on the gradation of patterns.

The magnitude of displacement of the design points from size to size and from height to height is presented in table 10.

Table 10

Moving design points from size to size and from height to height in the main details of women's clothing

Product details and design points	Designation in the drawing	Difference between adjacent dimensions, cm	Difference between adjacent heights, cm
		vertical	horizontally	vertically	horizontally
Front half of trousers
the point of intersection of the side cut with the line of attaching the yoke
Back half of trousers
the point of intersection of the bottom line and side cut
the point of intersection of the bottom line and the step cut
the point of intersection of the knee line and the side cut
the point of intersection of the gluteal line and the side cut
the point of intersection of the gluteal line and the step cut
the point of intersection of the gluteal line and the step cut
the point of intersection of the side cut with the topline

The pattern grading scheme is shown in the figure.

The gradation of patterns in size and height is shown on the graphic sheet

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) patterns. "Unfortunately, due to the small number of comments, I did not understand how much the topic was in demand and accessible in the presentation. And yet, I will try to bring what I started to its logical conclusion.

Let me remind you that in the previous articles on patterns, we considered technical reproduction and a detailed description of the gradation, which is most widespread in modern conditions of industrial clothing production.

As examples, I have already cited the technical multiplication of individual parts. In order to create a general picture of the process in relation to a particular type of product, further in Figures 1-6, the main details of a women's jacket are presented in terms of sizes and heights according to.

Figure 1 - Scheme of the size gradation of the details of the back of a women's jacket (size group 84-104)

Figure 2 - Scheme of gradation by height of details of the back of a women's jacket

Figure 3 - Scheme of gradation by size of details of the shelf of a women's jacket (size group 84- 104)

Figure 4 - Scheme of gradation according to the growth of the details of the shelf of a women's jacket

Figure 5 - Scheme of the gradation by size of the details of the sleeves of a women's jacket (size group 84-104)

Figure 6 - Scheme of gradation by height of the details of the sleeves of a women's jacket

When grading patterns of parts by height, first of all, such an indicator as the difference in the lengths of products of adjacent (neighboring) heights, which is called the intergrowth difference, is taken into account.

Intergrowth difference the length of the product is set differently depending on the type of product and the ratio of its length to the total body length (height). For practical purposes, you can use the values ​​of the intergrowth difference given in Table 1. The intergrowth difference in the length of the sleeve (long) is set for all types of shoulder clothing the same, equal to 2.0 cm.

Table 1 - Intergrowth difference in the length of garments

The magnitudes of displacements of structural points from size to size and from height to height for the main parts of garments are usually presented in the form of pivot tables, in which for each point the amount of its movement horizontally and vertically is indicated. one contiguous size or height. Moreover, these values ​​are typical for increase size or height. If it is necessary to obtain patterns of smaller height or size, then the values ​​of the increments at the points do not change, and the postponing of these increments is carried out in the opposite direction relative to the selected ones (see the previous article).

If it is necessary, bypassing the adjacent size, to immediately get the extreme one, for example, to go from size 46 to size 52, then the values ​​of the movement of the points indicated in the diagram immediately increase in proportion to the number of intermediate sizes. In our example, to go to the 52nd dimension, you need to go through the 48, 50 and 52 dimensions, therefore, the displacement values ​​at each of the points on the diagram must be increased three times. Hope this is clear? The new location of the feature points will be at the end of the diagonal of the rectangle drawn on the sides corresponding to three times the horizontal and vertical increments.

Well, that seems to be all I would like to tell you about the graduation process. Of course, it is impossible to cover all the nuances of the process in three articles. These are just the basics !!! I would be glad if you also share your experience in the technical reproduction of patterns !!!

I would also like to note the fact that the use of separate programs to automate the process of design preparation for production (CAD) allows you to exclude the classic methods of gradation patterns. In this case, when working with a base size (subject to appropriate settings), similar work is carried out in parallel with drawings and patterns the whole group of sizes, for which the product is supposed to be made. What ultimately determines b O the highest degree of accuracy in the development of the entire set of patterns.

In order to keep abreast of all the novelties of the site, subscribe to new articles and thematic mailings !!!

1. Determine the size and height variants of the gradation corresponding to the given size group and the size subgroup of the base variant. The required size and height options for figures should be determined according to OST 17 - 325 - 81, OST 17 - 326 - 81.

For example, the development of patterns for a women's jacket was carried out on a typical figure 158 - 96 - 104. This size is basic for the second full-bodied group, a subgroup of small sizes, which includes typical sizes 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104 and typical heights 146 152, 158 , 164, 170, 176. In gradation drawings, it is necessary to build 3 sizes down and two sizes up. For a basic size 96, you should build templates for all missing heights: 146, 152, 164, 170, 176.

2. Draw the contours of the base height of the details of the assembly. Apply gradation axes to every detail.

3. Select the method and scheme of gradation from among the recommended (1, 2, 4 ... 8) or available at the enterprise.

4. Sketch the gradation scheme for the details of the backrest assembly. On the diagram, indicate the directions and values ​​of the gradation increments at characteristic points (∆х i, ∆у i).

5. Build gradation drawings by size, then by height. Drawings are performed on graph paper in M ​​161.

6. Perform an analysis and refine the gradation drawings based on the comparison of the lengths of the same design parameters in the details of the extreme dimensional-height options. The analyzed parameters include parameters controlled by the table of measures of the technical description. In tabular form, reflect the results of the alignment of constructive increments incorporated in the controlled parameters.

Table 3.37

Analysis of changes in constructive increments during gradation

Design parameter name

Product measurement, cm

The size of the dimensional attribute, cm

The value of the constructive increase, cm

Conclusions on the correctness of the gradation

Back width

The amount of increase in the reference zone is constant

Shoulder width

The increase changes, which corresponds to the calculation system and the rational configuration of the armhole

7. To analyze the conjugation, superposition and invariability in the ratios of the lengths of the sections of the patterns of the extreme dimension-height variants.

Table 3.38

Analysis of the change in the lengths of the connected slices after graduation

Name of the connected cuts	The value of the deviation of the lengths of the slices, cm
Back side cut				∆ l = 0
Side cut barrel

Table 3.39

Slice contingency analysis

Purpose of work: mastering the methods and techniques of reproduction of patterns for parts of garments and drawing up standard patterns for the gradation of patterns.

1. Preparation of drawings of patterns for the main parts of the product.

2. Determination of the magnitudes of displacements of points of gradation.

3. Carrying out technical reproduction of patterns of the main parts by size.

4. Drawing up standard patterns for the gradation of patterns.

5. Analysis of work results; formulation of conclusions.

Questions to prepare for work

1. What is called pattern gradation?

2. What methods of pattern grading do you know? What are their advantages and disadvantages?

3. What is the essence of the proportional-calculation method of gradation?

4. What is the location of the original breeding axes on the main parts of the shoulder garment?

Manuals and tools: patterns of the main parts of the product of standard design, paper (millimeter, tracing paper), drawing accessories.

Literature: .

Methodical instructions

The work is carried out using the proportional-calculated method of gradation.

The proportional-computational method of grading patterns in the garment industry is most widespread and is used mainly for the gradation of garment parts for basic bases and standard designs.

With this method, the values ​​of vertical and horizontal increments when moving the nodal points are determined in proportion to the distance of the corresponding design point relative to the gradation lines, using the values ​​of the established initial increments along the main design lines. The farther the design point is from the gradation line, the larger the increment it will move.

The values ​​of vertical and horizontal increments are determined according to the variability of dimensional characteristics and the calculation formulas of the corresponding design technique.

An analysis of the displacement values ​​of the structural points of the patterns of product parts for men and women of all weight groups showed that one can use the same increment values:

for men, small-sized subgroups by chest circumference (92-108) of all fat groups;

men of the large subgroup in terms of chest girth (112-128) of all fat groups;

women of the subgroup of small sizes by chest circumference (88-104) of all fat groups;

women of the large subgroup in terms of chest girth (108–120) of all fat groups;

women of the subgroup of very large sizes in terms of chest girth (124-136) of all fat groups.

For children, age-related variability is of great importance, therefore it is necessary to perform a gradation in size and height for each age group separately. In total, 6 age groups are allocated for girls and boys: nursery (up to 3 years old), preschool (3–6 years old), primary school (7–11 years old), senior school (12–15 years old), adolescent (15– 18 years) with Or III = 84–92 cm and adolescent (15–18 years old) with Or III = 96–108 cm.

With the proportional-calculated method of gradation, it is necessary to outline the contours of the original pattern, designate the design points and select the original gradation lines - the X and Y axes, perpendicular to each other. As a rule, each part has its own gradation axis.

Major points of gradation are identical to the design points of the base frame, therefore their designation corresponds to the designation of the design points of the base frame in the corresponding design method

Typical position of the gradation axes matches construction lines that define the baseline grid of the structure drawing.

In shoulder garments with set-in sleeves:

on the back the vertical line coincides with the middle of the back or a line tangent to the midline of the back, horizontal - with the waist line or chest line;

on the shelf the vertical line runs tangentially to the armhole line or coincides with the middle line of the shelf, the horizontal line coincides with the waist line or chest line;

on the sleeve the vertical line connects the ends of the front roll line or passes through the highest point of the sleeve ridge, the horizontal line coincides with the sleeve width line under the armhole.

Shoulder garments with one-piece sleeves:

on the back the vertical line passes through the top of the side cut of the back, the horizontal line is the chest line;

on the shelf the vertical line passes through the top of the side cut of the front, the horizontal line is the chest line.

In the collar only the length changes, therefore gradation occurs only along the horizontal axis, which is perpendicular to the midline of the collar and runs tangentially to the line of insertion of the collar into the neckline, the vertical axis of reproduction passes through the notch that corresponds to the position of the shoulder seam or through the end of the collar.

In belt products:

for straight skirt vertical lines coincide with the middle line of the rear panel and the middle line of the front panel, horizontal - with the line of the hips;

for trousers vertical lines coincide with the arrow line on the back and front halves, horizontal - with the seat depth line.

Movement of points lying on the axes is performed only in one direction along the corresponding axis - horizontally or vertically. All other design points of the contour are moved along the diagonal of the rectangle, the sides of which are the transverse and longitudinal increments to the given size of the part.

Generally sequence of work when performing the gradation of patterns in a proportional-calculation way can be represented by the following diagram :

Outline the contours of the original pattern;

Indicate gradation points;

Select original gradation lines;

Determine the amount of movement of the points of gradation along the selected axes;

Postpone the displacement values ​​of the gradation points along the selected axes;

Find the final value of the displacement of construction points and designate it;

Outline the contours of a new pattern;

Check the correctness of the patterns.

Preparation of drawings of patterns for the main parts of the product.

1. The patterns of the main parts of the standard or basic design of the product are transferred to a sheet of graph paper, placing them at a certain distance from each other, taking into account the increase in the size of the patterns during their reproduction. Patterns of the back and shelves are positioned so that the chest line is aligned with the horizontal, and the patterns of the sleeves are positioned so that the line of the width of the sleeve under the armhole is aligned with the horizontal.

2. On the resulting contours of the patterns, the gradation points are designated by the letters of the original basic structure.

3. For each detail, select the original gradation axes and apply them to the drawing.

Determination of the displacement values ​​of the gradation points.

1. In tabular form, the values ​​of the interdimensional difference in measurements of typical figures participating in the calculations of the selected design of the product are drawn up (Table 8.1).

Table 8.1

The values ​​of the interdimensional difference in measurements of typical figures

2. In accordance with the selected initial gradation axes of each part, the calculation of the displacements of the gradation points is performed using the EMCO COTSHL formulas. It should be remembered that the points lying on the gradation axes move only along these axes. Calculations are made in tabular form (Table 8.2).

Table 8.2

Calculation of the magnitudes of displacements of points during the gradation of patterns

Point designation	Calculation of displacement along the X-axis	Calculation of displacement along the Y-axis

Carrying out technical reproduction of patterns of the main parts by size

Grading is performed on two adjacent sizes (one size larger and one size smaller than the original).

1. The obtained values ​​of the displacements of each nodal point of the patterns are sequentially laid down first along the X-axis, then along the Y-axis in the direction of increasing the size, thus obtaining the corresponding point of the new pattern by a size larger than the original. By connecting the original point of the gradation with the corresponding new point with an auxiliary straight line, the direction of movement of each point of the gradation of the original pattern is obtained.

2. In the opposite direction, postpone the final values ​​of the gradation points displacement to obtain smaller pieces.

3. Using the points obtained, outline the contours of new patterns for parts of products of adjacent sizes.

4. Check the correctness of the construction of patterns for parts of clothing of adjacent sizes according to control measurements. If the obtained measurements of new parts differ from the calculated values ​​by more than 0.2 cm, then the contours of the new patterns should be corrected.

Compilation of standard patterns for the gradation of patterns

Draw out the gradation schemes of the patterns of the corresponding standard design of the product on an A4 sheet. To do this, on the drawings of parts of a typical or basic design, made at a scale of 1: 4, at the points of gradation, apply horizontal and vertical arrows in the direction of increasing the size of the gradation and indicate next to each arrow the increment value for one size.

Analysis of work results and formulation of conclusions. At the end of the work, the student must analyze the accuracy of the obtained gradation schemes and indicate the reason for the inaccuracies, if any.