How a modern Tatar skullcap is sewn. Craftswoman Taisiya Usmanova tells. We sew a skullcap

It will take you 2-3 days to sew a national headdress. The finished product can be bought for 450-700 rubles. Is it worth spending so much time on needlework? Of course, it’s worth it, the craftswomen believe.

The plow holiday Sabantuy is an important event in the life of Tatars and Bashkirs, who magnificently celebrate the end of field and sowing work. This year, from July 1, festivities will start in the regions of Tatarstan, and on July 15, celebrations will be held in Kazan. These days people want to look especially beautiful and festive. An integral part of the Muslim national costume is the skullcap. It is comfortable, practical and beautiful. Fania Zakirova, a senior researcher at the Kazan State and Natural Museum-Reserve Iske Kazan, told Tatar-inform how to make a national headdress for the holiday.

“The skullcaps are sewn on sewing machines, but my product is handmade. There are no secrets of mastery as such. Each craftswoman includes all her imagination in her work and puts her soul into it. Needlework requires perseverance, patience, diligence. Previously, in the Vysokogorsky district, there was an artel "Ak kalfak" ", which was engaged in sewing hats for Muslims. Now local women are embroidering skullcaps at home. Tourists coming to the region show great interest in sewing Muslim headdresses,” the interlocutor said.


The skullcap is sewn from velvet. An important point in needlework is the decoration of the product with embroidery. The national ornament is embroidered with multi-colored beads, pearls, glass beads, beads and sequins. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, some wealthy Tatars decorated their headdresses with amber and pearls. The skullcap consists of two parts - a cone and a round top. The pattern is made taking into account the size of the head. Three parts are cut out for each piece. Satin can be used as a lining. Wooden blanks are selected according to the appropriate size.

Since this is an Islamic national headdress, it is better to choose a floral ornament as its decoration. In this case, images of animals and people cannot be used. If the craftswoman knows the meaning of symbols and signs, she can use them. First, we draw on paper. After that, we take a transparent film and pierce the stencil with a darning needle. The distance between the punctures is 5-6 mm. We put the finished stencil with holes on the workpiece. To transfer the pattern to the fabric, you will need toothpaste and a brush. We apply the toothpaste on the brush and draw along the contour of the drawing, ”explained Fania Zakirova.

Velvet with a finished and dried pattern is put on the hoop. Next, we embroider the pattern with multi-colored beads. We decorate the top and sides of the skullcap with an ornament. To do this, we string the beads alternately on the needle. You can embroider a pattern with a solid line, or you can choose the distance between the beads. If the beads are small, then several beads can be strung on a needle at once. Next, we sew a satin lining to the product, quilt the side parts and thread the twine. This is necessary for the skullcap to keep its shape. To properly sew on the top of the headdress, it is better to use pins. For convenience, it is better to fix them in four places. The craftswoman recommends soaking the finished product with edible gelatin. To do this, gelatin must first be dissolved in warm water and brought to a boil. The finished solution is applied with a clean brush to the inside of the product. This is necessary so that the skullcap becomes rigid, keeps its shape better.


“After that, the product must be dried on the battery or left overnight. The skullcap is ready! To sew a headdress with your own hands, you will need 2-3 days. The finished product can be purchased for 450-700 rubles. Some in the villages sew skullcaps with their whole families. I'll tell you a secret that today manual work is rare. More often, skullcaps are sewn on sewing machines. But there is nothing difficult in manual labor. All you need is time, desire and a good mood,” said Fania Zakirova.


The interlocutor said that there are two versions of the origin of the skullcap. According to one of them, it is believed that she came to us from the Turkish fez. According to the second version, initially the skullcap served as a balaclava for a Turkic warrior in order to alleviate the force of a possible blow to the head by the enemy. Fania Zakirova is sure that every Turkic family should have a national headdress. Men wear skullcaps to the mosque, Sabantuy, Nikah and other holidays. Skullcaps have become an original souvenir, a hallmark of Tatarstan.

We will need materials:

1. Velvet black, green, blue or other color.

2. Cotton base for lining.

3. Twine.

4. Multi-colored beads, pearls, glass beads, beads, sequins and other decorations.

5. Solid black satin, chintz or twill for lining.

6. Tracing paper for the pattern.

7. Cardboard for patterns.

8. Sewing and beading needles, as well as a needle with a large eye.

9. White and black threads.

10. Hoop with a diameter of 22-25 cm.

11. Durable fabric for stretching on the hoop.

12. Safety pins.

13. Thimble.

14. Scissors, paper, pencil, ruler.

15. Soap or tailor's chalk.

16. Form (blank).

17. Edible gelatin.

18. Toothbrush and paste.


Progress

1. Making a pattern of the required size.

2. Cutting out parts from velvet.

3. Cut out the lining.

4. Embroidering the top and edge of the skullcap.

5. Quilting parts.

6. Stitching parts of the skullcap.

7. Processing of the product with gelatin.

pattern making

The skullcap consists of two parts: a flat round top and a hard edge. The side part is cut out on an oblique. Its length is equal to the circumference of the head plus 2 cm per seam. The width of the skullcap is 10-11 cm, while 1.5-2 cm remains for the seam. For example, for a size 58 headdress, we make an edge pattern 60 cm long and 10-11 cm wide. The height of the headdress should not exceed 8-9 cm.

Open skullcaps

With seam allowances, the prepared edge pattern is placed on the velvet so that the grain thread of the fabric is located along the oblique line. The lining of the edge of the skullcap is also cut out obliquely. It should be 1 cm longer and wider than the velvet part. For size 58, you will need a lining 61 cm long, 10-12 cm wide. The diameter of the top of the skullcap is 19 cm (radius is 9.5 cm). Sizes are given with seam allowances. Having made a pattern out of stiff paper, cut the top and its lining.


Skullcap embroidery

We embroider the product with beads, pearls, glass beads, beads or sequins. This work must be done after cutting, before quilting. Beads can be used in one or more colors. We use a thin needle.

Sewing and quilting details

The basis of the skullcap are thin, small stitches. To give rigidity between the rows of stitches, twine-type ropes are threaded. Sewing must begin from the bottom of the edge of the product. Fold the lining with the velvet strip right sides and sew on the bottom. So that the lining does not stick out outside the skullcap, turn the product inside out so that the velvet fabric extends 1-2 mm to the wrong side. Make a neat seam along the bottom of the headdress. Backing up 3 mm, make another seam. To stiffen the bottom of the dress, thread the twine.

From below, on the front side, mark the height of the skullcap - 8-9 cm and with light threads a line along which the side and upper parts of the skullcap will be sewn. Stitch with a “forward needle” seam with inclined lines the area formed between the stitches so that tight ropes pass freely between them. Then the skullcap will keep its shape well. The ropes are threaded from the bottom up, starting from the bottom stitch. Having brought a large needle with a slightly bent end to the top stitch, take it out through the lining, cut the rope. Work all rows between vertical stitches in this way. Pull the fabric so that the protruding ends of the ropes go inside the product.


When sewing the ends of the strip, join the last two stitches together so that the connecting seam is less visible. Now you need to sew the top of the skullcap. Divide the upper circle of the product with arcuate lines into 6 parts. Each part separately needs to be quilted and laid with ropes. To make the arcuate lines the same and even, use a template. On a paper basis, substituting the pattern to the pre-drawn sides of 6 triangles, you will get 6 arcuate lines. Transfer these lines through the copy to the lining. After that, sew the lining to the wrong side of the top of the skullcap along the intended seam. First, sew all 6 arcuate lines, thread the ropes into them. A large needle with a string can be led from the edge to the center of the circle along the paths formed by the stitches. After piercing the gasket in the center, remove the needle, cut the thread and, slightly pulling the fabric, remove the protruding ends inward. So sew the entire surface of the circle.

Sewing parts of the skullcap

To sew the parts evenly, divide the top and side band of the skullcap into four identical parts. Connect the parts from the wrong side at the marked points. Sew them on previously outlined stitches. Bend the protruding strip of the lining of the side part over the edges of the just connected parts of the skullcap and carefully sew. Turn the skullcap inside out, treat with a solution of edible gelatin from the inside, put it on a blank until it dries.


Discuss()

KazanFirst continues to publish materials about people who are engaged in national crafts

Taisiya Usmanova (MaçəT) participates in the exhibition of the international festival of Muslim clothing designers of Tatarstan

There are many craftsmen in Kazan who sew skullcaps, but not everyone wants or is ready to communicate with journalists. Some are afraid to talk about the scale of their craft, others refused to talk about a relatively small monthly income. Still others felt that they did not need extra advertising and mention in the media. Like, who needs it, they are already known.

However, national crafts, the manufacture of national clothes, shoes, musical instruments and dolls, especially if all this is successfully developed, is an important criterion for the well-being of the people. It also gives confidence to its representatives. Therefore, it is necessary to speak and write about national crafts, about ideological masters, and in as much detail as possible.

Taisiya Usmanova- master of tailoring skullcaps by hand. She is a veterinarian by training. What drew her to sew Tatar skullcaps? Taisiya spoke about this and the craft itself in an interview with KazanFirst.

- How did you get the idea to make skullcaps?

Since childhood, I have loved to sew, with a sewing machine always on “you”. In my free time, I always did something with my hands, as this is a very good rest and help with stress.

After the wedding, my husband and I moved to Kazan, and before that we both worked in Moscow. My husband worked, I was at home, there was a lot of free time to do something. We bought a sewing machine and I sewed for my own pleasure. My husband, noticing my talent, offered to sew him a skullcap on nicknames. He is a Tatar.

- How long did you sew it?

This skullcap was created for a whole year! According to a good tradition, the bride or a trusted person sews a skullcap for the groom. I did not know how such a headdress is sewn, since there are no sources on the Internet and in books, because the production of skullcaps is the secret of every master. So I began to develop sewing methods myself.

- What is your technology for making skullcaps?

The skullcap consists of two main parts: the side and the top. According to the shape of the pattern, we cut the fabrics for these parts, collect them in layers, and quilt them. Then we do embroidery, if it is provided for by the design, we sew the back fabric to the workpiece. Next comes the assembly. The top is manually sewn to the side, then we turn the skullcap on the wrong side, connect the edges of the wrong side with a beautiful invisible seam, turn it on the front side, straighten it - you're done!

- All your works- nominal. Did you give any name to your first skullcap?

We gave her the name “Summer”, because this pattern contains the sun, fertile wheat fields, water, and wind.

Skullcap "Summer"

Just at the time of the creation of this skullcap, the idea was born to sew them as a craft.

I wanted to sew by hand. Of course, there would hardly be anyone willing to wait for a skullcap for a year, so we took an embroidery machine to help in my work.

- Do you have a specific template for skullcaps?

Yes. It is quite simple to sew a skullcap with straight sides. It turns out such a “tablet”, which will not look good on every head. The task before me was to sew such a skullcap that would fit perfectly on the head and the shape was not straight, but a truncated cone.

Today we have three types of templates for skullcaps: truncated cone, straight skullcap and semi-straight. What I will sew for the customer depends on the shape of his head and even on his age. Yes, we have the opportunity to sew a youth skullcap, it will have a short side, and a skullcap for a man of respectable age, with a higher side.

- Skullcap for which head shape is most often bought?

The heads of all are basically of two types: with a flat nape and with an elongated nape. I cannot say that there is more demand for any of them.

I consider the cone to be a more universal option, so I make this particular shape for the Barakat souvenir shop at the Moscow Cathedral Mosque.

- Your skullcaps are bought by women for their men?

We are approached both by the future owners of their skullcaps themselves, and, for example, by brides who want to give their fiance a skullcap on Nikah.

The most common skullcap size is 58 if I place an order for a store.

- How do you like to sew more: for a store or for an individual buyer?

I like to work with a person personally: this way the skullcap turns out to be more interesting, more spiritual, or something. I just want to make sure every time that the product will fall into good, caring hands.

- Is it possible for you to participate in the creation of a skullcap yourself?

Can. We give each customer the opportunity to participate in the creation of their skullcap, so each product is different from the other.

There are no absolutely identical. The customer himself chooses the color of fabric, material, color of beads, sequins and even his own design can offer. Our task is to make these wishes come true.

- How is the tailoring of an individual skullcap?

At the first stage, we discuss the design of the headgear with the customer, collect all the wishes, and make the necessary measurements. If there is embroidery on the product, then I draw the design in a special program for the embroidery machine, select the necessary thread colors, and then transfer the embroidery to the fabric.

After that, if provided by the design, I complement the embroidery with beads and other decorations. This completes the machine step. All other work is done manually. The connection of all parts, hidden seams - only manual work guarantees the durability of the product and a perfect fit on the head.

Skullcap "Night"

- What materials do you take?

The materials used for our products are high quality and natural. It is important for us that the skullcap brings comfort to the head, is not heavy and oppressive. Traditionally, we take velvet, the wrong side and the base of the skullcap are made only from natural materials: cotton and linen. Since our production volume is small, we buy fabrics at retail in specialized stores in Kazan.

- In what quantity and at what price do you buy fabrics?

We buy them in small quantities, because production is still in the nature of a hobby. Basically, we have two or three meters of velvet in different popular colors. If some color is not available, then we buy directly under the customer. Now a meter of velvet retail costs at least 830 rubles, so buying in large quantities is expensive.

We buy Korean-made velvet, we always choose good quality.

For the inside, we buy a couple of rolls of 100% cotton Turkish staple. At the wholesale warehouse, even before the growth of the dollar, its price was 250 rubles per meter.

The filler of the skullcap consists of linen and fluffed cotton, we also buy them in rolls, because this is the base of the skullcap, it is the same in each product. Flax, which is in a skullcap, costs 100 rubles per meter, fluffed cotton - 80 rubles per meter.

I buy accessories via the Internet, sometimes I spend hours looking for a suitable seller with rare types of beads, sequins, threads and rhinestones. It is quite difficult to find good beads, especially rare colors: gold and silver. I love working with Czech beads, their price starts from 200 rubles per 50 grams. So, for some models of skullcaps, up to 30 grams of beads are required, and these are several hundred small beads that must be sewn on manually.

It is very important to find good embroidery threads. I use German ones in my work, the price of one coil of 1,000 meters is from 350 rubles. Some models take the whole coil, as, for example, in our new product - the Crimean skullcap.

Skullcap "Crimean"

- How long does it take to produce one skullcap?

Depending on the complexity of the product, it takes from one to four days to sew one skullcap. If the skullcap is simple, without embroidery, for performing religious duties, then we sew this one for about one day.

- What distinguishes your skullcaps from others made by hand?

Skullcaps of each manufacturer are unique in their own way. Those who really care about their brainchild make really great hats. We do not consider them our competitors, we even cooperate with some of them.

For example, sometimes together with a designer Milyausha Musina we create an image on Nikah. We sew a skullcap for the groom, and Milyausha embroiders her own pattern, which will be combined with the bride's outfit.

The main difference between our skullcaps and others is the maximum handwork, no glue or gelatin to hold the shape of the product. If you pay attention to the vast majority of skullcaps sold in the city, they are quite hard and not always neatly sewn.

Many manufacturers sew a straight skullcap (tablet), and to create a conical shape, they moisten it in a gelatin solution, put it on a blank of the desired shape and size, and dry it. The result is such a tough crispy skullcap, which can even break if you accidentally bend it.

Our skullcaps are so soft that they can be easily turned inside out and back without losing their shape due to the unique horsehair stitching.

- What is your main way of selling?

We have a Vkontakte group, a page on Facebook and Instagram. We are fundamentally not represented in local souvenir shops, because we prefer an individual approach to the customer. When I, as a craftsman, see for whom I am sewing, the product quickly acquires a soul.

The most interesting thing is that each skullcap behaves differently when sewing. If the customer has an interesting character, then the skullcap can be a little capricious. If a person is calm, then the skullcap is sewn even faster.

- What is your average income per month from the business?

It is still difficult to call our craft a business, because there is only one master so far. The demand for our products is good, which is very pleasing, but there is still no opportunity to please everyone with our skullcaps. I am a mother on maternity leave, so I do not have time to answer everyone.

The expansion of production is in my dreams and plans: I will take as an apprentice a person who will be as passionate about the craft as I am.

The price of our skullcaps is honest, with minimal markup. For example, the cost of a skullcap without embroidery is 990 rubles, and its cost is 500 rubles. I earn 10,000-15,000 rubles a month if it's a sales season. In winter, for example, skullcaps are almost never sold, so there is no income.

- What meaning do you put in your skullcaps? FROMpreservation of the traditions of the Tatar people, fashion,inspiresand folklore?

In general, we started sewing skullcaps in order to maintain the craft. My husband and I often go to Kazan museums, to various exhibitions, where items of clothing and national costume are often presented. It is from there that I draw inspiration when starting to create new skullcaps.

I was very impressed that skullcaps aged 150-200 years were presented in some expositions, while they were perfectly preserved. I dream that someday, in 100 years, one of my skullcaps would also end up in a museum and inspire the craftswoman of the future.

Therefore, we can say that we are more for the idea, business is already the second. It is important for us to develop and support this craft, so that later our knowledge and skills can be passed on to future generations.

- If you are Russian by nationality, then why did you start sewing skullcaps?

In my birth certificate, my mother is recorded as Russian, and my father as Ukrainian. But by nationality, I'm not exactly Russian. My maternal grandfather is Tatar, my grandmother is of Turkish blood. Therefore, probably, since childhood I have loved oriental outfits and jewelry, and I really like sewing skullcaps.

- Why did you start sewing skullcaps, and not kokoshniks?

I live in Kazan, the kokoshnik is not very relevant here. Although I made kokoshniks in my childhood, and it turned out very nice. There is a territorial connection. Kazan is a skullcap and chak-chak, Tula is a samovar and gingerbread.

- Manufacture of skullcaps- your main craft?

So far, I have only dealt with skullcaps, and I have reached a certain perfection in this area. I plan to take courses in cutting and sewing, to sew a modern adaptation of the national costume.

- What is your education?

I am a veterinarian by education, I graduated from the Orenburg State Agrarian University. After graduation, there was no opportunity to get a job in the specialty.

Orenburg is a small city, there were several veterinary clinics, but there were not enough graduates for all. I got a job in trade, worked in this area for several years and finally realized that this was not my thing.

Only now I am truly happy, because I am doing what I like very much and bring pleasure from work. I am very happy when the customer is satisfied, because each skullcap is charged with the warmth of my hands.

- Why did you leave your profession?

Each person is usually all his life in search of himself and his place in the world. It depends on his state of mind. You can say that now I have found this place. The craft makes me happy and the people around me who buy my work. I like to create, to see the results of my work. Therefore, there is no desire to return to trading.

REPLY

Have you read this? Are you gay?) or imagine yourself as Yves Saint Laurent?)

Is Shamil well versed in seventh graders?

I agree with Shamil, to be honest, it used to be interesting to read KZF, but now you either write rural news in articles or press releases from some press releases, very rarely something interesting happens, you remind Tatar-inform of something. Well, there are many interesting topics, well, who needs Elabuga clubs, Tatar skullcaps, amateur "Dawns" and so on?

REPLY

You may not be interested, but we are very much! Don't like it - move on! Who makes you read?

If you don't like it, don't read it! Very good article, useful for general understanding.

Reader

Weak text, language, like a school essay ... The author, maybe journalism is not for you? ..

REPLY

are you into trolling? and weakly truncate the difference between an interview and an article? and the right of the interviewee to defend the PV?

no, guys, of course, you are all experts in journalism here in the comments, but it seems strange to me alone to find fault with the text and language of the author in an interview? Where is the bulk of the text - the words of the speaker?? wise men ekarny babay ...

Very talented!

REPLY

An interesting article, and very beautiful skullcaps, I think it will be very interesting for many to read.

REPLY

And who are you, comrade?

I agree with Veselukha, it's sad that there are fewer and fewer talented journalists at KZF.

REPLY

even sadder that the comments are custom!

REPLY

Alevtina

Why Crimean?

REPLY

To create this skullcap, my husband and I were inspired by an exhibition of household items of the Crimean Tatars. The drawing is taken from the ornament of the fruit dish.

middle-brother

What did they arrange in the comments, did the journalists of other publications decide to show off like that?) And then it’s weak with their own names?) Even if the author is just learning, should one immediately criticize so sharply? Were the pros themselves born? But in fact - an article on an easy topic turned out, not everything is about scandals to read!

REPLY

Class! Have you always been interested in learning about skullcaps? More about kalfak.

REPLY

Too bad there aren't many pictures :(

REPLY

For some reason, the moderators are harmful and remove links. You can find us on social networks by typing tyubecat in the search. Welcome!

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A children's technopark with a chemical focus will be opened in Tatarstan, which has no analogues in the country: the top management of a large business will be included in the board of trustees

Quantorium intends to grow a real engineering elite, and the "trick" of the project will be that children will be able to offer start-ups for large petrochemical enterprises

At the end of February, the Quantorium children's technopark, which has no analogues in Russia, will open in Nizhnekamsk, in the creation of which the largest enterprises of the industry are interested: Nizhnekamskneftekhim, Taneko, Nizhnekamskshina and Ammonium. Almost 110 million rubles were spent on its equipment in the building of the Engineering Center of KNRTU-KHTI (half of the amount was allocated under a grant by the Russian Ministry of Education). In the technopark with a capacity of about 1,000 people, the creation of which is supervised by KHTI, six “quanta” will work. On the eve of the opening of the technopark in an interview with KazanFirst, the vice-rector of the university for continuing education, the former deputy minister of education of the Republic of Tatarstan, speaks about this Love Osvienko. In her opinion, schoolchildren trained for the Unified State Examination and “bruised” by this form of passing the exam need supersubject knowledge that the school does not provide.

- Will the technopark, which is about to be opened, be part of the Quantorium network launched in Chelny in 2015?

Quite right. At the end of February, two more Quantoriums will open in parallel (in Almetyevsk and Nizhnekamsk), each will have its own specifics. The uniqueness of our project lies in the fact that in parallel with the technopark in the schools of Nizhnekamsk and the region, we will create a whole network of technical circles of a new type. In them, children, starting literally from the first grade, will begin to engage in technical creativity in an updated format. The circles will operate on the basis of schools, but under the methodological guidance of the technopark. This is a huge array of children that we will involve in this movement.

- How many are we talking about?

7,000-8,000 children starting from the first grade. The best of them will then be able to come to the technopark, the capacity of which will be 1,000 children a year. Children who have already started studying chemistry and physics at school, that is, students starting from the seventh grade, will come to the technopark.

- What tasks will you solve with children?

We will try to introduce them to the world of professions related to Nizhnekamsk, the development of petrochemistry and oil refining. These will be professional tests, expeditions to enterprises, participation in the WorldSkills Junior movement. Now it has two competencies related to chemical technologies: chemical analysis laboratory assistant and plastics processing.

We will also give children supersubject knowledge: not pure physics and chemistry, but knowledge about processes and phenomena. The educational process will be led by teachers from our university and the Nizhnekamsk branch. We will also involve graduate students and arrange student landings. We will have many players on this field in terms of science. They will conduct lectures, master classes, public performances: a lot of things that go beyond the scope of the school course. Of course, all training will not be boring: in the form of competitions, quests, endless events, conferences.

In parallel, children will study the basics of science, make their own reports, and prepare scientific reports. We intend to involve children in projects on enterprise issues. That is, the projects that we propose to implement for children will be absolutely focused on the problems of our enterprises.

- Do you have any preliminary agreements with enterprises?

Of course. With Nizhnekamskneftekhim, Taneko, Nizhnekamskshina and Ammonium. There is a rubber strength problem. We will have a separate direction so that the children will try to deal with this issue at the request of Nizhnekamskshina.

- Can't great adult minds solve these questions, but children can?

In such problematic issues there are always a lot of components. We must definitely introduce children to these processes and start working step by step so that they understand what the problem is, how it can be solved, and somewhere they offer their own solutions. Ultimately, we must form a serious group of children who will be ready for project engineering activities.

If a child succeeds in a project at the startup level, it will have a rational link, he will be able to move to the Engineering Center in grades 10-11. The children's technopark is just inscribed in its structure. In the Engineering Center, which will open in parallel with the technopark, two certification laboratories are being created that will accompany the main processes of Nizhnekamskneftekhim and Nizhnekamskshina. One will deal with the certification of plastics. Today, Nizhnekamsk manufacturers are forced to send product samples for certification abroad and pay a lot of money for this. With the opening of the laboratory in Nizhnekamsk, all costs will be ten times lower. In addition, it will be possible to make new types of products and immediately certify them.

- In what areas will Quantorium work in Nizhnekamsk?

It includes six "quanta" - directions. The largest and most powerful is the Nanoquantum, which includes university areas in the field of chemical technology. Others are Roboquantum, Energyquantum, Neuroquantum, Geoquantum, and Industrial Design.

At Neuro, we will try to deal with processes related to biochemistry, attempts to create artificial intelligence, bring our own achievements. On the other hand, it is an improvement in the process of rehabilitation of the body, for example, targeted delivery of a drug to the affected organ. Work will also be carried out with medical equipment in terms of its modernization, improvement and attempts to create new models. At Energy, we will deal with alternative energy sources. And these are biofuels, the transition to renewable sources, solar and wind energy, and much more. Quantum "Robo" will focus on the possibility of introducing robotics into chemical production. At Nizhnekamskshina, by the way, there are already robots. Quantum "Geo" is a topic related to the development of new shelves, studies of soil structure, it is more interesting to oilmen. "Nano" is completely chemical technology, there will be a lot of work with nanomaterials. "Industrial design" is a serious direction, which is interesting to us because the university has "Soyuzkhimpromproekt", which designs new enterprises for the chemical and petrochemical industries. So in the technopark in this area, work will be carried out on the design of premises, furniture, fixtures, and entire industries.

- Where is Quantorium located?

On one of the floors of the Engineering Center with an area of ​​about 1,000 sq. m. It is located in the building of the former branch of KNRTU-KAI, handed over to us a year ago by the mayor's office of Nizhnekamsk.

- Will it contain the specifics of the technopark in Nizhnekamsk?

Here the direction connected with chemical technologies and biotechnologies will be presented very seriously. All this is promising in terms of practical demand. In addition to the basic competencies in children, we will form soft skills - soft competencies. And this is the ability to work in a team, communication skills, good knowledge of technical English, work with information technology, self-esteem. We conceived one movement there - “scouting”. Relatively speaking, I took up the topic of “critical phenomena”. Scouting means that I first need to find out who in the world is engaged in this topic and in what part our competitive advantage can appear. This is serious analytical work that few people do. Many enterprises would have ordered such scouting, but there was no one to do it.

You say that enterprises order projects. And if they are duly worked out, are enterprises ready to pay for them?

We agreed with the mayor of Nizhnekamsk Aidar Metshin that the technopark will have a serious board of trustees, which will include almost all the "generals" - heads of the largest enterprises. He will make the appropriate decisions. In addition, an expert council of scientists will also work. If the expert council says that this is a serious study and has practical value, and then recommends it for implementation, then the interested enterprise will deal with these things. The fate of startups that have emerged within the walls of the technopark will be predetermined. Here everything is clearly and tied into a single ring, one chain of events. This is the uniqueness of the technopark. But everything I'm talking about, we have to do. We have come a long way, but we must go no less. If we implement everything planned, and I have no doubt about it, this will be a precedent for the Russian Federation. All previous successful models of technoparks were associated with robotics or IT technologies. But this is not a Russian theme, but redistribution. If we implement our project, we can become a center of attraction first for Tatarstan, and then for the whole of Russia.

- How did the project start?

From the visit to Kazan of the Deputy Minister of Education of Russia Veniamin Kaganova summer 2016. Then he said that if there is a university in the republic that is so interested in the development of a children's technopark, then our project will receive priority support. As a result, Tatarstan applied for a federal grant to the Ministry of Education and Science and won it.

- What kind of funding are we talking about when creating the Quantorium technopark?

The Ministry of Education allocated 48 million rubles, 30 million were given by the republic, and almost 30 million were given by the enterprises of Nizhnekamsk. We think that this is not yet the limit. If we move on, new requests will appear.

- What was the main purpose of this money? To purchase equipment?

For the repair of the premises and for the equipment of the quants themselves. A small part was directed to the training of teachers (the technopark has its own staff of 12 teachers). Robotics has been purchased, a lot of laboratory equipment, 3D printers, plotters, cutters. In industrial design, models will be printed on 3D printers and scanners. Quantums are equipped in such a way that they can carry out laboratory research and try to implement scientific ideas.

- Will visiting Quantorium be free for children?

Of course. All this will be free. In addition, five clubs will operate under Quantorium. One of them is "Independent Children". Here the child will learn to do everything that a normal person at home should be able to do: for boys, this is fixing an outlet, screwing in a light bulb, driving in a nail, using a screwdriver; for girls - to sew, knit, embroider, put a patch. In addition, we will have a parent club, the Key Competences Club, the Informational Club for those who want to make websites, work in social networks, promote events, and a club tentatively called Delayed Engineering Solutions for super-intellectuals.

Sewing and quilting skullcap details

The skullcap is based on hand-made thin, small stitches. To stiffen between the rows of stitches, twine-type ropes are threaded (in total, about 15 m of twine will be needed).

Sewing must begin from the bottom of the edge of the skullcap. To do this, fold the lining with a velvet strip on the right sides and sew the bottom part on a typewriter. So that the lining does not stick out outside the skullcap, turn the product so that the velvet fabric extends 1-2 mm to the wrong side, and make a neat seam along the bottom of the skullcap.

Stepping back 3 mm from it up, make another seam. To stiffen the lower part of the dress, thread the twine into the resulting drawstring. The frontal part is ready.

From below, on the front side, mark the height of the skullcap - 8-9 cm - and with light threads a line along which the side and upper parts of the skullcap will be sewn. Stitch the “forward needle” seam with slanted lines on the area formed between the stitches so that the ropes pass freely between them. Try to pick up not very thin ropes. Then the skullcap will keep its shape well. Otherwise, it will turn out unstable and will crumple. The ropes are threaded from the bottom up, starting from the bottom stitch. Having brought a large needle with a slightly bent end to the top stitch, take it out through the lining, cut the rope. Work all rows between vertical stitches in this way. Pull the fabric so that the protruding ends of the ropes go inside the product.

When sewing the ends of the strip, join the last two stitches together so that the connecting seam is less visible.

Now you need to quilt the top of the skullcap. The upper circle of the skullcap must be divided by arcuate lines into 6 parts. And each part separately, like the arcs themselves, is quilted and laid with ropes. In order for the arcuate lines to be the same and even, make a pattern. On a paper basis, substituting the pattern to the pre-drawn sides of 6 triangles, you will get 6 arcuate lines. Transfer these lines through the copy to the lining. After that, stitch the lining to the wrong side of the top of the skullcap along the intended seam. First, stitch all 6 arcuate lines and thread the ropes through them. A large needle with a string can be led from the edge to the center of the circle along the paths formed by the stitches. After piercing the gasket in the center, remove the needle, cut the thread and, slightly pulling the fabric, remove the protruding ends inward. So stitch the entire surface of the circle.

Sewing parts of the skullcap

To sew the parts evenly, divide the top and side band of the skullcap into four identical parts. Connect the parts from the wrong side at the marked points. Sew them along the previously marked stitches. Bend the protruding strip of the lining of the side part over the edges of the just connected parts of the skullcap and carefully sew.

Then turn the skullcap inside out, lightly sprinkle with water inside, put on a special form until dry. Of course, a hand-made skullcap is a valuable gift.

Nurzia Sergeeva. "Tatar embroidery", Kazan, publishing house "Magarif", 2005






The origin of the skullcap The word "skullcap" got its name from the Turkic "tube", which translates as "top, top". The skullcap is worn by the peoples of Central Asia, as well as in Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, in the Volga region, Tatars, Bashkirs. Along with the preservation of common features, the skullcap is always distinguished by the individual handwriting of the craftsmen who created it.




Skullcap ornament. It is worth talking about ornaments in particular. Almost all of them, even the simplest ones, once had a symbolic meaning. For example, a wavy circular closed pattern meant the annual cycle, the infinity of life, the wish for longevity. Braided "rope" - union, commonwealth, marriage bonds. Floral ornament is a symbol of earthly life, gratitude to the Creator for the beauty and generosity of nature. One of the main elements of the floral ornament of the Turkic peoples, especially loved by the Tatars, is a simplified image of a tulip, a memory of distant steppes, a symbol of spring rebirth. Ornaments in the form of paired curls, reminiscent of the horns of rams, also date back to the distant nomadic past - so that the owner does not transfer livestock, he would be rich and prosperous. And there are ornaments common to the Eurasian peoples, for example, solar, solar signs - these are amulets that, according to legend, drive away illness and misfortune


The purpose of the skullcap Since ancient times, the skullcap has been an integral part of national clothing. The skullcap was not only a simple headdress, but emphasized a person as a modest, well-bred, believer. Therefore, about a person who is a true believer, living according to the rules of the Koran, they said that "he was born in a skullcap."




Skullcap Forms Russian Tatars wear skullcaps with a flat or pointed top. The forms of skullcaps are varied: low, high, pointed and with a flat top, with and without a brush, in the form of a cylinder. Skullcaps are usually sewn from velvet, embroidered with multi-colored silk threads, decorated with gold or silver thread, beads, sparkles, stones, and later with beads, glass beads, pearls.




Kalyapush and takiya There was a time when Tatar men could not be imagined without a skullcap. According to Muslim customs, hair was shaved bald and a skullcap was put on. There are two types of skullcaps - kalyapush and takiya. Taqiya is similar in shape to a knitted hat, sewn from four parts. Among the Tatars, a skullcap is usually called a kalyapush. Kalyapush is a Farsi word: kalya is a head, pushidan is a covering, i.e. “Cover your head before prayer.”







Karakalpak skullcaps

Republican review-competition of skullcaps. Central Exhibition Hall of the Academy of Arts of Uzbekistan. A brightly decorated booth of masters from Karakalpakstan is constantly surrounded by visitors. Let's get closer. What is it that everyone is so interested in?

On a low soup, covered with canvases with national embroidery, there is a miniature yurt, repeating the real one, in the smallest details. You can even look into it. There, in the depths, there are miniature ceilings tied together with woven ribbons, the same ones that adorn the entire space above the exposition. Inside, under the dome, multi-colored tassels are suspended. A master from Karakalpak explains to us that each tassel means a member of the family, so by going into the Karakalpak yurt you can find out how many men are in the family, how many women, how many boys and girls are among the children. The yurt is surrounded by hand-made dolls in national Karakalpak clothes.

Next to the yurt is a scattering of skullcaps. It's the black ones. Well, that's what bark-kalpak is for. "Kara" - black, "kalpak" - pointed hat. Hence the name of the whole people - Karakalpaks. Although in the Karakalpak language, the cap has a completely different name, as well as the skullcap. Such Karakalpak round black skullcaps with an ornament around the band are called "tahiya". They are sewn from velvet, velor or felt.

Karakalpak skullcaps are divided into female and male according to two criteria:

Women's skullcaps have a fluffy pompom on the side. The second sign is in the ornament. The same ornament can be with rounded elements or with sharp corners. Rounded lines - on women's skullcaps, broken lines - on men's.

Although over time this division has ceased to be so strict. Here, for example, is a women's skullcap with a pattern of "corners". The pom-pom is a very telling element. If he is on the left, then we have an unmarried girl in front of us. So you can meet and get married. If the pompom is on the right, then the young woman is married, and signs of attention from men are unacceptable.

Children's skullcaps are bright, high with a pompom on top. The old people wear a round white skullcap, no longer with a pom-pom, but with a tassel on top. Well, it’s understandable, for a long life the pompom has worn out, only a brush remained from it.

Another variety of skullcaps is made of colorful fabric of the classical Karakalpak form and holiday skullcaps with a flat top.

But the most interesting thing about Karakalpak skullcaps is the pattern. It contains the whole biography of a person, and each element has its own meaning. For example, this skullcap will tell us that its owner is from a family of butter makers. In the drawing of his skullcap, elements denoting a sunflower. Green ornate stripes in a circle - mean wheat. So the family not only grows sunflowers, but also wheat. The kind of farmers means.

And the person who wears such a skullcap is from the family of cattle breeders. Because the skullcap is covered with an ornament denoting the horns of rams.

The master demonstrated this element to us using the example of the edging of her own costume. Covering part of the pattern with her hand, she showed how similar the pattern element is to ram's horns.

This skullcap is for a family member of gardeners. Bright flowers indicate a flowering apricot tree.

Such a skullcap is worn by a family member of farmers. It is decorated with symbols of wheat and an inverted infinity sign, symbolizing prosperity.

And here is an amusing round element on the skullcap. The Karakalpaks call it "Queen's Spit". According to legend, in ancient times, one queen saw the beautiful work of embroiderers and spat so as not to jinx it. It is this regal spit that fits into the ornament. Now it has the value of a talisman.

Such Karakalpak embroidery adorns not only skullcaps, but also modern clothes of the Karakalpaks. The craftswoman asked her lovely assistant to show the top of her dress. It can be determined from the girl that she is not married (pompom on the left) and that her ancestors were engaged in cattle breeding.

Several models of modern national clothes, made by a master from Nukus, were presented here.

The elegant business suit she wears is her own work of authorship. It is adorned with embroidery exactly as it is supposed to decorate a female Karakalpak costume. It is difficult to come up with a more successful and harmonious style for a business woman.

The master who recreated all this beauty is Aizada Nurumbetova. For 10 years he has been engaged in the revival of national traditions in modern Karakalpak clothes. Many of the ornaments that we see today in her work are unique and are the result of Aizada's long search in museums and archives.

An amazing woman, energetic, bright, emotional, amazing storyteller. I saw Karakalpak skullcaps for the first time in my life, and for me they became a discovery. My whole story is this small fraction of what the master Aizada Nurumbetova told. She is in love with her work, knows it perfectly, and is ready to enthusiastically talk about it.

One of the skullcaps just sunk into the soul. I tried it on (playfully, pom-pom to the left) and realized that the skullcap was simply destined for me.

I asked Aizada if it was possible to order such a ... and such a suit, and such a tunic dress ... Aizada laughed. She explained that, of course, it is possible, and that their workshop in Nukus mainly works on order. And that they are located in the building of Nukus University, and that they are very supported by the Women's Committee of Uzbekistan. We talked a lot more, exchanged phone numbers. Their workshop really needs help getting online. Because what they do is unique. Search the entire Internet, you will not find a single Karakalpak skullcap. And here is such a rich layer!

A low bow to the master Aizada Nurumbetova, for her tireless work, for her golden hands, for her pride in the past of her ancient and such long-suffering land.