Presentation on the theme of the fashion of the Peter the Great era. Presentation on the topic: "culture of the Peter the Great" presentation for a history lesson (grade 8) on the topic. Women's suit - fitted silhouette and wide skirts

04.07.2020

Bella Adzeeva, RIA Novosti.

The reign of Peter I went down in history not only with judicial and financial reforms, but also with transformations in the cultural sphere, including in the field of fashion. Many historians associate the emergence of the very concept of fashion in Russia with the name of Peter. For three decades, he managed not only to dress the conservative Russian nobility in a European way, but also to change the style of behavior and thinking of the inhabitants of the capital and Moscow.

Peter I against traditions and the beard tax

Even before the reform, Peter I preferred a more comfortable European dress to traditional long-brimmed clothes, and in the late 1690s, after returning from abroad, he set about Europeanizing the country, and he began with the most inviolable - the beard.

For a long time, shaving a beard and mustache was considered a sin in Russia. Therefore, when in 1698 the young Tsar Peter I personally cut off the beards of several noble boyars, this caused misunderstanding and surprise. However, the tsar was persistent, despite the fact that many saw in his actions disrespect for the original Russian traditions. In addition, after shaving off the beard, the nobles lost their usual masculine appearance, the priests refused to serve the beardless, and there were even cases when, after a forced shave, the boyars committed suicide.

In 1698, Peter I established a tax on a beard, and those who paid it were given a special token presented to the policemen. Already in 1705, a decree was issued according to which the only ones who were allowed not to shave their beards and mustaches were priests, monks and peasants. From all the rest, an increased tax was levied for disobedience, the amount of which depended on the class and property status of the violator. In total, there were four levels of duty: 600 rubles a year, which was a lot of money, had to be paid by courtiers and city nobles, 100 rubles a year were charged from merchants, 60 rubles were paid by townspeople, and servants, coachmen and Moscow residents of various ranks for wearing a beard gave 30 rubles a year. The only ones free from duty were the peasants, but the old habit did not cost them free either - when they entered the city, they paid one kopeck each. The duty on wearing a beard existed even after the death of Peter, and it was canceled only in 1772.

Culottes and dressing gown instead of a dressing gown and pants

The nobles, who did not have time to recover from the ban on the beard, soon faced a new shock - on August 29, 1699, a decree was issued banning the old Russian costume. In January 1700, Peter I ordered everyone to wear a dress in the manner of the Hungarian, a little later a German costume was given as an example, and in the end, boyars and nobles were ordered to wear German dress on weekdays and French dress on holidays.

Women were required to change into European dress from January 1, 1701. Poor nobles were given two years to bring an old dress - a special stamp was put on the clothes with the date. Effigies dressed in a new manner were exhibited on the city streets as illustrative examples of the new costume.

According to the regulations, men now had to dress in a shortened caftan (in the French style - justocor), a camisole and pants (culottes). The European caftan was much shorter than the traditional Russian - it only reached the knees. Rather tightly fitting the figure from above, it became wider downwards - there were folds on the sides of the caftan, and a slit in the center of the back and on the sides. This made the caftan more comfortable and practical, now you could even ride in it. The lapels on the sleeves - cuffs - were made wide enough and decorative buttons were sewn on them. The caftan itself, as a rule, was either worn open or fastened with several buttons - a camisole was always visible under it.

The camisole was in most cases sewn from the same fabric as the caftan, but it was much shorter and not as wide at the bottom. These clothes also had slits on the sides, but, unlike the justocor, there were no folds. The sleeve was narrow (sometimes it was not there at all), and the collar was never sewn to the camisole. The camisole was fastened with buttons and could be decorated with embroidery and patterns on the fabric. Usually, when tailoring, the unity of the cut was preserved, however, for special occasions, it was possible to vary the texture and color, as well as wear a caftan and camisole, sewn from different materials and different colors. Along with the shortened caftan and camisole, short trousers came into fashion, which were usually worn with a wide fabric belt gathered at the back. In the warm season, men wore high silk stockings with leather shoes, and in autumn and winter they wore the same high boots. Much attention was paid to decorations and details. In addition to the outfit, men began to wear brooches, cufflinks and tie pins. Lace was in vogue, jabot became very popular after the reform. As for the headdress, the usual tafya and murmolka were replaced by a cocked hat. The cocked hat was made of black felt, and the hat was not sewn, but the fabric was folded in a certain way. Gradually, the popular wig in Europe also came into fashion. Cloth raincoats were common as outerwear. Later, some details were added to this outfit - a watch on a chain, a cane, a lorgnette, gloves and a sword, which was worn on a harness and passed through one of the cuts on the sides of the caftan.

All clothes were usually embroidered with gold and silver thread, the sewing width should not exceed nine centimeters. The ceremonial costume was especially decorated - and this was its only difference from everyday clothes.

At the same time, special clothes for the home - a dressing gown - came into fashion. A dressing gown was a dressing gown that boyars and nobles wore at home over a shirt and culotte. Judging by the name (from the German Schlafen - "sleep", Rock - "clothes"), the dressing gown was originally intended for sleeping. Most often, such a dressing gown was sewn from velvet and silk, but in rich houses dressing gowns were made of expensive fabrics, and in winter they were insulated with fur.

Corsets in lace and robes in stones

If men dressed in new suits rather reluctantly, then the transition to European fashion was even more difficult for women. Accustomed to long and wide sundresses, to multi-layered outfits, now the girls had to put on a narrow European dress that opened their shoulders and chest.

At the beginning of the 18th century, the clothes of the capital's noblewomen began to resemble the French dress of the late 17th century. The ladies' costume now consisted of a skirt, a corsage and a swinging dress - all this was worn over a linen shirt. The corset, which has been worn in Europe since the 16th century, caused women special inconvenience. For wealthy ladies, it was always covered with silk and generously trimmed with buttons, lace and ribbons. The corset could not be put on on its own - the lacing on the back of the girls was tightened by the maids, it was difficult to breathe and relax or bend the back in it. Out of habit, many ladies, being in a tight dress all day, fainted. In addition to the inconvenience, the corset was also unhealthy: in it, the body became vulnerable to stomach and lung diseases. However, overcoming torment, the noblewomen obeyed the trends of fashion - all the more, they had no other choice under the strict decree of Peter.

Like a narrow corset, a very wide skirt was an integral part of the women's dress, which looked especially contrasting against the background of an elegant top. In order for the skirts to keep their shape, frames were put on under them - fizhma. Such skirts, which came from Europe, were suitable for the warm French climate, but the Russian winter required warmer clothes, so in the cold season the skirts were quilted with batting.

Over the dress, women put on a robe - the name of this outerwear comes from the French "robe" - "dress". After the reforms of Peter the Great, the robe replaced the traditional Russian letniki and opashny. The robe was a long swinging dress, which at the beginning of the century was customary to embroider and decorate with stones, lace and chains beyond measure. According to the degree of wealth and luxury, robes were judged on the nobility of its owner. In an effort to demonstrate their social status and proximity to the court, women were not afraid to look pretentious: later Catherine II even ordered to keep the cut and decor simple and not use lace wider than nine centimeters. Under Peter, the outfits were characterized by excessive solemnity and majesty: with the advent of new dresses, it became fashionable to adorn yourself with jewelry as much as possible.

The outfits were complemented with necklaces, tiaras, bracelets, belts, buckles for dresses and shoes. Together with hanging pearl threads, they now began to wear a clave - an ornament on a fabric bandage, which was tied high on the neck.

Like everything foreign, European outfits have taken root in Russia with some amendments, mainly dictated by the harsh climate. In addition to the aforementioned batting-quilted skirts, scarves, scarves and capes became an integral part of the wardrobe at that time. Women forced to wear dresses made of thin fabric with bare shoulders, arms and neckline, used these accessories more for warmth than for beauty. Around the same time, and for the same reason, stockings came into use - in everyday life, girls wore cotton or woolen ones, and wore silk ones during ceremonial exits.

At the beginning of the 18th century, pointed shoes were in fashion, most often with large heels - up to ten centimeters. Shoes for balls were sewn from satin, brocade and velvet, in other cases, women wore leather boots.
"An attack on tradition", which was considered the fashion for an uncovered head, made women think about their hairstyle - now it was impossible to simply comb their hair and hide it under a kiku or scarf. Most ladies began to curl their hair in waves and loosen it on their shoulders and back. An open face was considered a model of beauty, therefore, neither bangs nor curls hanging on the forehead were worn at that time. Over time, the construction of complex hairstyles required wigs and hairpieces, hairpins and special hair frames, which were brought from abroad and purchased for a lot of money.

On the street, women put a lace cap on their heads. At first, many tried to pull it more tightly over their heads, embarrassed to appear in public with their hair peeking out from under the cap.
Young people were the quickest to accept changes in clothing, among older people this process took longer and more painful: in new short suits, many seemed to themselves "undersized". In the early 1710s, the nobles considered the new coats and camisoles indecent, and in these cases, the soldiers forcibly cut off the floor-length traditional Russian clothes. But later, parents and parents, dissatisfied with the new fashion, began to adapt to European trends. For their daughters, they ordered foreign magazines with styles that had not yet been printed in Russia, as well as invite tutors, dance teachers and tailors from Europe.

According to the remarks of the ambassadors and their associates, who were present at the large balls of the beginning of the century, by 1710 Russian noblewomen were already “correctly” making up and combing their hair, not yielding to European ladies.
However, not everyone followed the latest fashion. And if the ladies of the court shone with exquisite dresses and jewelry, then ordinary nobles most often did not look so deliberately solemn, although they wore dresses in a European manner. St. Petersburg followed the fashion most strictly, a little less - in Moscow, the small-scale nobles tried to keep up with the capital's inhabitants.
As for the peasants, under Peter the changes in their clothes practically did not affect them: they still wore traditional clothes made of linen and other cheap materials. A shirt, a sundress, a padded jacket, a fur coat - the wardrobe of women from the people remained the same as several centuries ago. European fashion came to the village only at the end of the 18th century.

In another environment - officials, merchants and industrialists - the costumes introduced by Peter I fully took root by the end of his reign. The tsar, by his decrees, regulated not only the styles and silhouettes of the dress, but also the fabric, decorations, color and nature of its decoration, which contributed to the rapid Europeanization of the Russian nobility. “A Russian woman, until recently rude and uneducated, has changed so much for the better that now she is not much inferior to German women and French women in the subtleties of treatment and secularism, and sometimes even has advantages over them,” wrote the Holstein nobleman Wilhelm Berchholtz, who arrived in Russia in 1709, pointing not only to a new fashion, but also to a change in people's behavior.

Exercise 1. Write down in the table what changes have occurred in the nutrition of the upper strata of society in Russia.

310 years ago, Peter the Great issued a decree: Wear Western European costumes

Task 2. Fill in the table "Changes in clothing in the 18th century."

When completing the assignment, use the materials § 18-19.

Task 3.

During the time of Peter I, the first mods appeared.
By decree of Peter I in 1700, the nobles and townspeople were forbidden to wear the old Russian costume and the following forms were established instead: for men, a short close-fitting caftan and camisole, culottes, long stockings and shoes with buckles, a white wig or powdered hair, a shaved face ; for women, a wide frame skirt, a tight-fitting bodice (corsage) with a deep neckline, a wig and high-heeled shoes, bright decorative cosmetics (rouge and white).

The caftan was worn unbuttoned - wide open.

In those days, France was considered a trendsetter, so many toilet items had French names, for example, culottes - short men's pants, they relied on white silk stockings.

Stub-toed shoes with small heels with large metal buckles, or boots - over the knee boots - with wide bells at the top of the tops were considered fashionable shoes.

In the Armory of the Moscow Kremlin, among the items of clothing, there is a pair of coarse leather over the knee boots that belonged to Peter.

There is an opinion that the king, who mastered many crafts to perfection, sewed them with his own hands.

In the famous portrait of Borovikovsky, Prince Kurakin is depicted against the backdrop of a magnificent palace setting in a dazzlingly bright full dress, richly decorated with jewels, for which he was called the diamond prince.

A tight-fitting tailcoat with high-cut hem and culottes made of golden-yellow brocade, red and blue sashes, rich embroidered camisole, cuffs, expensive lace cuffs make the costume extraordinarily colorful and elegant.

Then the wig came into fashion.

For all its inconvenience, it also had considerable advantages: it kept its shape for a long time, hid a bald head, and gave its owner a respectable look.

Women's costumes of the Petrine era have not been preserved. During the reign of Elizabeth, the daughter of Peter, they are characterized by special splendor and wealth. The ladies of the court wore low-cut fitted dresses on a frame base (corset and tans).

In 1720, a dress with a Watteau pleat appears.

The main silhouette of the women's costume was a fitted silhouette, greatly expanding towards the hips and bottom. It was created by a tight-fitting bodice along the line of the shoulders, chest and waist with a deep neckline and a wide pannier frame skirt, later fizhma.

Peter's costume reform
http://shkolazhizni.ru/archive/0/n-33554/
http://www.5ballov.ru/referats/preview/99254
http://www.fashion.citylady.ru/parik.htm

European clothes in Russia began to be worn thanks to the reforms of Peter I.

Prior to this, traditional forms of clothing were simple in cut and did not change for a long time. All clothes, as a rule, were sewn at home: Domostroy ordered every woman to economically manage the household and be able to cut, sew, and embroider clothes for the whole family. The clothes were inherited; the quality and cost of the fabric were valued in it.

Until the 17th century in Russia there was practically no own weaving production, clothes were sewn either from homespun fabrics (canvas, cloth), or from imported velvet, brocade, obyari, taffeta from Byzantium, Italy, Turkey, Iran, China, cloth from England.

Imported cloth and brocade were used in festive costumes even by wealthy peasants.

Vestments for the Moscow Tsar and his family were sewn in the Workshop of the Tsarina's Chamber. Both women and men-tailors-shoulder masters worked there (since they dressed the royal shoulder).

Exclusively male work was the manufacture of shoes, fur products, hats. All outfits were decorated with embroidery in the Tsaritsyna Svetlitsa, where women of the royal family headed by the queen, noble noblewomen and simple craftswomen worked.

The first fans of Western fashion appeared in the first half of the 17th century.

History presentation on the topic: fashion under Peter I

they wore German and French dress. For example, the boyar Nikita Romanov dressed in French and Polish dress in his village and hunting. But foreign clothes were forbidden to be worn at court.

Alexei Mikhailovich in 1675 issued a decree forbidding the wearing of anything foreign. During the reign of Princess Sophia, European clothing becomes more and more popular.

Russian costume of the 18th century. Peter's reforms

Life and customs - Danilov, Kosulina Grade 7 (GDZ, answers)

1. Write down in the table what changes have occurred in the nutrition of the upper strata of society in Russia

Fill in the table "Changes in clothing in the 18th century." When completing the assignment, use the materials § 18-19

Write down in the table what changes in the leisure of different strata of society occurred in the 18th century.

On September 5, 1698, the great and powerful Tsar of all Russia, Peter I, issued a decree: to cut beards. First of all, this decree concerned the boyars, merchants, military leaders, but he did not bypass the rest of the male townspeople. The king's command did not apply only to clergy and partly to peasants, since they could wear beards, but only while in the villages. The nobility of Petrine Russia was horrified by the innovation. So why did Peter I order the boyars to shave their beards?

Nowadays, talking about such a question as shaving a beard seems ridiculous.

However, if you look at the foundations of life in medieval Russia, it becomes clear that the issue of wearing a beard was extremely important.

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This was facilitated by a special way of life, in which the beard was considered a symbol of commitment to the faith, evidence of honor and a source of pride.

Some boyars, who had huge houses and a large number of serfs, envied those who had less wealth, but they had long and lush beards.

Painting "Boyars"

Russia of the XYII century remained "bearded" while its Tsar Peter I never wore a beard and considered the old Russian custom ridiculous. He, a frequent visitor to various Western European countries, was well acquainted with a completely different culture and fashion.

In the West, they did not wear beards and mocked Russian bearded men. Peter was in solidarity with this opinion. The turning point was the one and a half year journey of the Russian Tsar incognito with the Grand Embassy in Europe. After returning from the Great Embassy, Peter could no longer put up with the "outdated" way of life in Russia and decided to fight not only with its internal, but with its external manifestation.

The initiation of the nobility to secular European culture began with the shaving of beards, which Peter I personally took up.

Tsar Peter cuts the beards of his boyars.

Lubok picture.

The chroniclers of the September events of 1698 describe the meeting of Peter I with the nobles in different ways, however, the ending of all the stories is the same.

The nobles came to the king with lush long beards and proudly raised heads, and left beardless and confused. Some representatives of the nobility tried to resist Europeanization, but fearing to fall out of favor with the king, in the end, they obeyed his will. Many of the shaved boyars hid their cropped beards and mustaches in their pockets and kept them.

After, they bequeathed to their relatives to put their beauty and pride with them in the coffin. However, the most stubborn "bearded men" were allowed to keep their beards - subject to the payment of an annual tax.

Such a copper "Beard Sign" was issued after paying a tax and gave the right to wear a beard for a year.

In addition to a negative attitude towards wearing a beard, Peter the Great brought other valuable knowledge from Europe, introducing them in Tsarist Russia, Peter was able to cut through a “window to Europe”.

and Borisov Igor

Objectives: - To show what changes the appearance of the nobility underwent under Peter the Great - To display the ways in which European innovations penetrated into the fashion of the Russian nobility in the first half of the 18th century

Russian costume in the 18th century Thus, the main forms of European costume - “Saxon, German or French dresses” - replaced the ancient Russian costume, which was completely different from them in terms of constructive and decorative solution, and brought to life new ideas about beauty, new aesthetic ideals. Transformations of Peter I coincided with the dominance of French fashion in Europe. However, for the Petrine era, the influence of the Dutch and German costumes was more characteristic. It primarily affected the greater simplicity of fabrics and decoration, orientation to the tastes of the burghers. The energetic nature of Peter, the active involvement of noble youth in various activities led to a more practical and simple form of clothing. You can judge about it by the wardrobe of Peter I, presented in the Hermitage collection. It contains many items made of cloth, wool, linen and cotton fabrics. For example, a double-breasted caftan made of double-sided dark red and green cloth, a turn-down collar, wide cuffs are fastened to the sleeve with three buttons covered with brocade; a double-sided cloak of blue and crimson cloth trimmed with silver galloon; summer caftan and trousers in silk blue rep, lined with white silk with a floral pattern, trimmed with silver lace and buttons braided with silver thread. Under the caftan was worn a camisole of unbleached canvas, embroidered with silver satin stitch, with silver buttons, lined with dark blue silk.

Men's suit The main forms of men's suit from the beginning of the century to the 70s. change slightly: as before, there remain a French caftan with straight floors, expanded downwards due to rigid padding, a camisole, and culottes. However, every year the wealth and luxury of the applied fabrics, finishes, and decorations increase. At the end of the 70s. French and English tailcoats are in fashion.

In the famous portrait of Borovikovsky, Prince Kurakin is depicted against the background of a magnificent palace setting in a dazzlingly bright full dress, richly decorated with jewels, for which he was called the “diamond prince”. A tight-fitting tailcoat with high-cut hem and culottes made of golden-yellow brocade, red and blue sashes, rich embroidered camisole, cuffs, expensive lace cuffs make the costume extraordinarily colorful and elegant.

Women's costume The main silhouette of the women's costume of the second half of the 18th century, with the exception of its last decade, was a fitted silhouette, greatly expanding towards the hips and bottom. It was created by a tight-fitting bodice along the line of the shoulders, chest and waist with a deep neckline and a wide frame skirt - pannier, later fizhma. We see such a dress in the portrait of Sarah Eleonora Fermor by the artist Vishnyakov.

As well as for the men's suit, for the women's suit, expensive imported fabrics with rich finishes were used: embroidery (gold and silver threads), precious stones, the finest lace, gas. This luxury often bordered on wastefulness and led to the ruin of noble families.

The reforms were carried out mainly due to the most severe exploitation and coercion - no matter how one relates to the methods and style of carrying out transformations, one cannot but admit that Peter the Great is one of the most prominent figures in world history. Conclusions: - thus, the main forms of European costume are “dresses Saxon, German or French" - they replaced the ancient Russian costume, which was completely dissimilar to them, brought to life new ideas about beauty, new aesthetic ideals

List of sources used http://credonew.ru/content/view/242/26/ http://www.countries.ru/library/russian/dolgov/history2_7.html

310 years ago, Peter the Great issued a decree: Wear Western European costumes

History presentation on the topic: fashion under Peter I

Russian costume of the 18th century. Peter's reforms

Life and customs - Danilov, Kosulina Grade 7 (GDZ, answers)

The Secret of the Sukharev Tower

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