The most popular razor sharpening stone. Straight razor sharpening stone. Japanese water stones

The knife accompanies a person from early childhood to old age. Each of us knows that it is a blunt blade that cuts the hand most often. To do this, it is enough for the blade to slide off the surface.

In order to avoid this, as well as to make the cutting process quick and comfortable, the knives are sharpened. But for sharpening knives, there are many different devices and methods, it is worth considering them in more detail.

Sharpening: principle and options

Blade sharpening is the process of removing the edge along the entire length of the blade at a certain angle with an abrasive. The sharpening angle depends on the hardness of the steel and the tasks facing the blade. So for household kitchen and hunting knives, the sharpening angle is 30 ... 35 degrees, a hunting knife with resistance to blunting is sharpened at 40 ... 45.

Somewhat apart are the blades, which require a special sharpness of the blade, usually these are chef's knives or knives for professional processing of products, in this case the sharpening angle is from 25 degrees.

Separately, it is worth considering the sharpening angles of the razor and surgical instruments, since they require the sharpness of the blade. For a dangerous razor, the sharpening angle is 14 ... 15, for a surgical instrument from 12 to 25 degrees.

Sharpening of knives is carried out in two ways, manually using abrasive bars or special devices and mechanically using a sharpening machine with a rotating abrasive wheel.

The first option requires skill, but at the same time it is easier to learn and accessible to everyone. For sharpening, abrasive bars of various types are used, common:

• Arkansas, known as novaculitis;
• Japanese water stones;
• diamond bars;
• ceramics.

Each type of stone has its own advantages and disadvantages. These stones will be discussed separately below. For quick sharpening of kitchen knives, knives with a fixed or variable attachment of abrasive planes are often used, sharpening in which is carried out by moving the blade between sharpening surfaces.

Mechanical sharpening on the machine is much simpler, less time consuming, but requires constant temperature control and compliance with safety regulations.

Important! When sharpening on a machine with electrocorundum abrasive, it is necessary to control the temperature of the blade metal; when overheated, the steel of the blade can change its physical properties.

The main types of grindstone

In the course of the evolution of mankind, materials of natural origin suitable for sharpening knives were determined, although at the beginning of civilization, even ordinary sandstone was trusted to sharpen blades.

Now the information on metal processing has been structured and stones with the best abrasive properties have been selected.

Invented and worked out methods of working with them. In addition, synthetic materials are widely used, which often have better properties than natural counterparts.

Arkansas stones

Novacula is a sharpening stone for a razor. This is a dense siliceous rock of homogeneous quartz crystals. Mining is carried out in quarries, Arkansas stone bars have several degrees of graininess, they are distinguished by excellent abrasive ability, but at the same time, due to their dense structure, they require the use of oil for sharpening.

Sharpening "dry" will clog the pores of the stone with dust and metal, causing the stone to fail. The main disadvantage of these bars is the price and uneven production with improper sharpening of the blade.

Japanese water stones

A natural stone originally from Japan, it has a high sharpening ability, but at the same time it is quite difficult to use. Sharpening knives on it is almost a ritual. Unlike novaculite, this abrasive is softer.

Sharpening is done with water. The process itself is quite complicated and time consuming. Stones are produced with a grain size from 600 to 30,000 grit in the Japanese JIS classification, while 10,000 grit is enough for superfinishing the blade.

Therefore, 30,000 is already excessive grit for blades for domestic use. Before work, the bar itself must be soaked in a container of water, after impregnation, remove it and create a mud mass on its surface using Naguro, the second abrasive bar in the water stone set.

With the help of this suspension, sharpening is performed. The surface of the abrasive is quickly and unevenly developed, for this reason, it is required to periodically restore it with the help of special bars.

Synthetic stones

Diamond sharpening stones, synthetic materials - electrocorundum, chromium oxide or diamond grit on a silicate or ceramic binder. These stones have a uniform structure, different (depending on the bar) grain size and good performance characteristics.

The cost of such stones is usually low, the bars themselves are available. Sharpening can be done both “dry”, which is not recommended, or with the use of water or oil.

Ceramics

These materials are used for blade finishing, finishing or superfinishing. The grain size of these materials is small, but at the same time they are quite cheap and will allow you to smooth out scratches from a peeling abrasive or straighten a knife with a serrated sharpening.

The use of a liquid is essential, since the pores in fired ceramics clog very quickly, the surface becomes smooth.

Grinding stones of various shapes are widespread, from standard whetstones, which are best worked on a stable plane, to rod sharpening stones, with which the blade is corrected on the go.

One thing remains unchanged, no matter what kind of bar, and what kind of metal, but for high-quality sharpening, lubricants are always used: water or oil.

Sharpening rules

First you need to prepare all the necessary materials. A sharpening block, a container of water and a paper towel or a plain sheet of paper. A piece of rag will also come in handy.

Immediately you need to determine the angle of sharpening. For example, 35 degrees is the most optimal angle for a kitchen knife or 40 for a sharp hunting knife.

Inspect the stone, if it has a trough or a significant development, then it should be leveled, otherwise the sharpening will be uneven.

The leveling of the stone is done with another stone, some types of stones, such as Japanese stones, have special comb stones included to restore the surface.

The bar is installed on a flat, stable surface, a table is perfect. To minimize slip, a cloth or rubber is placed under it. You can fix it on the table and in another improvised way. The surface of the bar is wetted with water or machine oil.

The position of the blade is adjusted by improvised means, for example, by putting a paper clip on the back of the blade or placing a coin. If the owner of the knife has strong nerves and a sharp eye, then simply holding the knife in the desired position is enough.

The knife is placed at an angle of 40-45 degrees to the center line of the blade, sharpening is carried out by forward movements of the blade away from you. For high quality sharpening, it is worth doing it in two steps.

First time on a coarse-grained peeling stone. Then, on finishing, fine-grained. During sharpening, it is necessary to periodically wet the surface of the stone. The check after sharpening is carried out both visually, examining the edges of the blade to the light, the sharp part of the blade is uniform along the entire length, should not give glare.

You can also plan a sheet of paper on weight. A sharpened knife cuts smoothly, without hooks and paper tears. The cut of the sheet is even, without shaggyness and tears. If the edge of the paper is torn, the sharpening of the knife must be repeated.

Conclusion

There are many stones, but each of them has its own characteristics, and, like a knife, it is selected under the arm. Synthetic stones are budgetary in operation. They are inexpensive and widely distributed.

But at the same time, to achieve softness of sharpening, you can only use natural stone, which has its own characteristics. Japanese water stones are good in terms of quality. But their price is very high.

In addition, sharpening with such bars is long and inconvenient. In addition, it requires mood and skill. The same should be expected from Arkansas.

Hence the conclusion, each stone is suitable only for its owner, if in nature or to correct the kitchen in between the series and reading the newspaper, then it is better to take synthetics.

She will forgive small mistakes, and the quality of sharpening does not play a role here. But for the sharpness of a hunting or combat knife, before a long trip to nature, you should use natural stones.

After sharpening, the knife is sharp, with edges and shape close to ideal. If you give the knife a lot of time and warmth, it will definitely not let you down, at the right time.

Video

Natural Japanese whetstones, in Japanese ten-nen toishi, have gained a reputation as the finest whetstones in the world for sharpening cutting tools of all kinds. In recent years, they have become especially in demand by users of straight razors. However, those wishing to purchase toys have encountered a variety of names and differences in the color of stones with the same name, which has led to some disappointment and confusion.

The feeling of dissatisfaction with this situation led me to the idea of ​​writing a dictionary on the terminology associated with Japanese natural sharpening stones, and now prompted me to write this guide. Over the past two years, I've spent a lot of time and a lot of money researching everything related to Japanese sharpening stones and I believe this guide can help a lot of people avoid the same mistakes I made.

Please don't forget that I'm a beginner myself, there's a lot more to learn on my own.

I hope this guide helps you!

A Beginner's Guide to Buying Japanese Natural Sharpening Stones

First and perhaps most importantly, remember that when you decide to buy any natural stone, and not just Japanese, the only thing that matters is the properties of the stone. Neither the name of the stone, nor the color, nor the price, do not matter. Unfortunately, most buyers cannot pre-check the properties of a stone before purchasing it. Next, you need to find a seller who will test the stone in work, it is desirable that the seller understands and uses straight razors himself. You can safely buy a stone if you are satisfied with the price and you trust the results of testing by the seller of the properties of the stone.

There are many factors that affect the price of toys.

1. Where the stone was mined.

2. The size of the stone and its shape.

3. Presence of inclusions (purity).

4. "Special" signs.

5. Number of intermediaries.

The first place where the stone was mined. In principle, any toishi mined on Mount Atago, near the city of Kyoto, will cost a lot, and toishi mined on the eastern slope of Mount Atago will cost more than any other stones. Toyishi mined on the western slope of Mount Atago, or mined in Takashima in Shiga Prefecture, will cost less. Toyshi mined on the eastern slope of Mount Atago are really very good, this price pattern has developed mainly due to the high demand for stones and the reputation of the best stones.

The high reputation of toisha from the eastern slope of Mount Atago is well justified in terms of razor sharpening, for geological reasons, since eastern stones are harder, and the hardness of the stone is very important when sharpening razors.

2. The second factor that determines the price of toys is the size. Toyshi come in several standard sizes.

1. Large (OBAN) 250x100x35mm (largest size)

2. Long (Shakucho) 218x78x35mm

3. Size30 (30gata) 205x75x30mm

4. Size 40 (40gata) 205x75x25mm

5. Size 60 (60gata) 195x70x25mm

6. Size 80 (80gata) 180x63x20mm

7. Shaving size 136x82x20mm

Of course, the more toys, the more expensive it is. There are also non-standard stones of irregular, non-rectangular shape. Large irregularly shaped stones are called "gensecki", which means raw or raw stones. Such stones are sometimes cut into smaller rectangles, and sometimes left as is. "General secretaries" are comparatively cheaper than toishi of a standard rectangle, about the same size, but not by much. Small rectangular stones are called "koppa" and tend to have about the same (or less) surface area, about the same as a razor-sized stone, and are usually much cheaper.

For comparison.

The price of a size 40 Nakayama Maruka stone can range from 20,000 yen to 100,000 yen or more. A 20,000 yen Nakayama Maruka stone will differ from a 100,000 yen similar stone, such as cracks on the surface of the stone, broken corners, or small inclusions. However, a 20,000 yen toyshi will have the same sharpening qualities as a 100,000 yen toyshi. The Nakayama Maruka Koppa stone will start at 6,000 yen and will have the same sharpening properties as a size 40 stone.

The third factor that can significantly affect the price, and sharpening quality, is the presence of inclusions. There are two main types of inclusions: lines, stripes they are called suji, specks, which are sometimes called "hari" or "ishi", and sometimes "suna-ya" or sandy eyes. Basically, these are inclusions of other minerals, the hardness of which is higher than the hardness of the rest of the stone. Stones are called "live", if such inclusions are in that part of the stone that, when sharpening, they can be touched with a razor, such stones should be avoided. Stones are called "dead" if the inclusions are in that part of the stone that when sharpening they cannot be touched with a razor, such stones can be purchased. However, in both cases, the presence of inclusions causes the price to fall.

The fourth factor is specific features that can affect the price of a stone are things like color variations, especially for stones like "karasu" or "nashiji". These stones are rare and highly prized, although the general consensus is that toisha sellers and users in Japan , color shades have no effect on the actual quality of sharpening.

And finally, the price always increases, depending on the number of intermediaries, since each of them receives a share of the profits. So, the farther from Kyoto, the more expensive the stone will be. It just needs to be remembered.

Signs of a razor stone

In the event that you have the opportunity to personally choose a stone, then before you buy it, you need to pay attention to the following signs, this will give you the opportunity to choose the best stone without delving into hundreds of toys offered to you. So, what you need to pay attention to:

1.Stone hardness

2. Consistency or texture. This is a key feature

3. No small inclusions

4. Pay attention to the presence of cracks

5. Forget the names of the stones

1. For sharpening razors, it is better to purchase a harder stone, the harder, the better. The following reasons. First, as a result of sharpening the razor, the cutting edge is very, very thin and fragile. The softer the stone, the more of its own suspension is formed on the surface of the stone, loose abrasive particles can damage the thin cutting edge. The razor will shave, of course, but the cutting edge will not be as sharp as you would like in the end. The second reason in favor of harder stones, not directly related to razor sharpening, is the wear resistance of toys. A hard stone will hold the work plane better and therefore less often requires grinding the surface. This is a purely practical consideration.

How to test a stone for hardness? To do this, just put a little water on the surface of the stone. If water remains on the surface of the stone and is not absorbed for a sufficiently long time, then the stone is solid. If the water is quickly absorbed, then it is a soft stone. If you lightly tap on a stone, for example with a pencil, then the sound emitted by a harder stone will be more sonorous, if the stone is soft, then the sound will be correspondingly more deaf.

2. Under the "consistency" should be understood the "texture" of the stone, the uniformity of the hardness of the stone. It can be difficult to determine visually or tactilely, but there are still some clues. The first clue is the color, if the surface of the stone is very multi-colored, then it is likely that the texture of the stone is not uniform. The second clue is the "reflection" test. If the working surface of the stone is well lapped and polished and viewed from a certain angle, the surface will shine or become highly reflective. Distortions in the reflection indicate areas of the stone surface with a different texture.

You should avoid purchasing toys that have large areas of uneven texture on the working surface, which is expressed in such color variations in shades as, “yake” (brown, dark brown), “nashiji” or “kan” (color variations in tree-like wood similar to growth rings). ). The presence of small areas with a different texture on the working plane of the stone is a phenomenon.

3. This is obvious, if there is a large area of ​​inclusions on the working surface of the stone, in addition to the abrasive, then there is a serious sign of heterogeneity. A good rule of thumb when evaluating the presence of inclusions is a glare test, which makes it possible to detect black or dark brown inclusions on the surface of the stone. They reflect more light than the rest of the stone. When sharpening in such areas it is impossible to work. This is especially true for Suji.

4. Pay attention to the presence of cracks. Sometimes the presence of cracks is quite acceptable, very thin cracks do not affect anything. But if you see cracks going through the entire working plane of the toyshi and they expand in a certain area, then be very careful. A cracked toyshi can be used, even if it is completely split, it can be glued together, so the only question is whether the cracks will interfere with sharpening or not.

5. Forget the names of the stones. Seriously, forget all those tricky toysha names and choose a stone based on the combination of attributes, except if for some personal reason you want to purchase a stone with a specific name (which is generally not bad at all, I quite understand this), just take a look at stone. Apart from the general meaninglessness of the names, there is almost no way to verify their authenticity, unless the stone is sold by some well-known stone distributor (Imanishi, Tanaka, Kimura, Hatekana, etc.). Of course, fraud does happen. But do not always refuse the deal, maybe the stone is ideal for finishing, but if you are chasing a specific name, then you need complete confidence in the authenticity of the stone.

Seam names: "Tomae", "Aisa\gouza", "Suita", "Hatimae", etc. They can provide a little help in choosing a stone - for example, whetstones from "Ais" are usually harder than "Suite". Suits tend to run faster than other layers with a su structure, etc. But the probability of a complete connection of the property of the stone with the name of the seam is very low, so the names of the seams are of little help. It must be remembered that the stones of the Tomae formation are very widespread and, as it were, are “default stones”. If the stone is not stamped with the name of the formation, it is almost certainly "Tomae".

A few words about the color of "kiita", "asagi", "mizuiro" and so on, this is pure aesthetics and nothing but it. Aesthetics is a psychological concept, but it does not affect the sharpening process.

Note: I did not say anything about the grain size, in other words, about the grit of the stones. For natural grinding stones, such an assessment is not acceptable. In any sense of the word, toishi cannot be attributed to "thin" natural stones. For more information, read the "hows-it-going" article.

And in conclusion. Analyze.

If you see a suspiciously cheap stone, remember all the objective reasons for the price drop - inclusions, small size, many cracks, etc. Some defects are not a problem. A small stone, but it can be sharpened, cracks can be sealed, and some inclusions can be removed. Just carefully inspect the product and remember: if everything is too good to be true, then it is so.

Straight razor sharpening stone in our catalog

Sharpening a straight razor is no less exciting process of using this tool than shaving itself. If you learn how to sharpen a straight razor, you will be able to handle any cutting object. Therefore, such a skill should be acquired by every man.

In order to sharpen a straight razor, various stones are used. No matter how much you want to save money, you will have to invest in several copies, which you will use alternately each time. Today, synthetic stones are often used for straight razors, which you can buy in ours and accessories for them.

Buy stones for straight razors in the store site

Our online store is a specialized store for straight razors and accessories. We work directly with manufacturers, which means that we only offer original products. In our large catalog you can buy stones for sharpening straight razors, as well as straight razors from world-famous manufacturers: Solingen and Thiers Issard. Solingen razors are presented in two lines. With us you can and.

With proper care, these truly high-quality razors will last you for decades. To make shaving comfortable and safe, you need to buy a straight razor sharpening stone and straightening strap. Here's how to choose and use the right straight razor stone.

Choosing a stone for sharpening straight razors

People who have recently purchased a straight razor are often lost in the huge offer of the modern market and cannot choose the right stones for their tool. Different materials, section, quality - it's really easy to get confused. Your choice should be stones that differ in the following qualities.

1. A good straight razor stone should be uniform. Take a close look at its surface. It should be perfectly even visually. If you observe elevations or heterogeneity on it, then it is better to refuse such a stone.
2. Size matters! Stones 150x50 are best suited. You can find other offers on the market: 60x180, 70x200, etc. We recommend that you stick to the optimal size so as not to overpay and sharpen your straight razor with maximum comfort.
3. Evaluate the shape of the stone. It must be even on all sides. Often there are low-quality samples, in which only one side is declared flat. Get ready for the fact that you will buy a really high-quality stone.

For a complete and high-quality sharpening of a straight razor, you will need several stones of different grain sizes:
. #500;
. #1000;
. #3000;
. #5000;
. #6000;
. #8000;
. #10000.
The first stone will come in handy for correcting straight razor geometry, roughening the cutting edge and repairing it. Further sharpening should be carried out on stones with an increasing cross section.

Natural or synthetic?

Among the owners of straight razors, the debate continues about which stones are better to use for sharpening their tools: synthetic or natural. Let's try to understand this issue.
For a long time, stones produced in Belgium and Germany were considered the best. These are natural stones made from slate. They were even called once "razor stones". But progress does not stand still and may offer us alternative options. Recently, Japanese-made synthetic stones have become increasingly popular. How are they better and worse?

1. Think about what nature can provide us, and what is a machine for making synthetic stones. Slate can be inhomogeneous in places, have different grain sizes, and gradually fail, which will lead to a lower quality sharpening over and over again. Unfortunately, nature did not even imagine that it creates stones for sharpening razors, therefore, it was not in her plans to make them ideal.
Synthetic straight razor sharpening stone is made just for this purpose, therefore it has optimal characteristics. Therefore, with a qualitative approach to the manufacture of such stones, homogeneous samples are obtained without seals, elevations or small depressions.

2. Experienced sharpeners still tend to choose stones created by nature. They say that using a straight razor sharpened on such stones is much more comfortable.

3. The use of natural stones is a real tribute to tradition. You will sharpen your shaving tool the way your ancestors did.
Which of the stones to choose, it's up to you. However, for beginners, we recommend synthetic stones that are easier to handle.
Alternative
The modern market is ready to offer us alternative options for sharpening stones for straight razors and in general other ways that you will have to evaluate. We strongly recommend that you try each of them individually to see which one is right for you. It is necessary that the sharpening process brings maximum comfort and pleasure.

water stones

Most often, such stones are used for sharpening woodworking tools. However, it is also suitable for a dangerous razor. It should be used for honing a razor (very rough sharpening) when the tool no longer works as it should.

Water stones are also available synthetic and natural. Most often, the composition of such products includes aluminum, silicon carbide and ceramics. Before use, the stone must be moistened abundantly. You need to buy stones for sharpening straight razors according to the size of the tool itself. Try to keep the length of the razor no longer than the width of the stone. It is better to purchase a water stone with a small margin in order to sharpen your tool for sure.

Ceramic hones

These are old-fashioned straight razor sharpening stones, which you can still buy in ordinary stores, but you have to look. You can buy domestic products with diamond coating. Such stones are called "butcher's rod". They are much softer than waterstones and can therefore be used for fine cutting edges.
As a rule, these are very small donkeys that give a really high-quality result. Suitable for dry work. You can also wet such a stone. It all depends on how comfortable you are to work in one way or another.

Fine grit or sandpaper

This method can be tried only for the sake of experiment, as it is unlikely that you will like it. Sandpaper needs frequent replacement, although it is inexpensive.
How to tell if a razor is sharp

It can be very difficult for a beginner to determine that the cutting edge of the razor has been brought to the ideal and is suitable for use. There are two effective ways to determine how sharp your straight razor is. To do this, you can use hair on weight or a microscope. Better to combine them.

To get started, try to cut the hair by weight with your straight razor. You can do this on your arm without touching the skin. If the razor cuts hairs, then it can be used. Next, look at it under a microscope. At 500x magnification, the cutting edge should be mirror-like and have only small spots and scratches.

Common Mistakes in Using Sharpening Stones

When you're just starting out with straight razor stone and haven't gotten the hang of sharpening yet, you may come across some interesting effects and bugs. To learn how to get a perfect cutting edge faster, we recommend that you avoid the mistakes listed below.

Sharp pain in the arm

You work with a razor for one hour, two, four, and now it has been brought to the ideal, cutting hair on the fly! Remember that you have been working for a very long time, so be prepared for the fact that individual fingers or the entire hand can be cramped. It manifests itself in sharp pain.

The pain does not occur during the sharpening process, but after it. During the evening, we do not recommend that you carry fragile items in your hands, keep children and animals in your arms, because due to sharp pain you can drop them. Also, do not shave immediately after sharpening. This may result in injury. And if you drop the razor, it will turn into chips and the blade will have to be sharpened again or even get a new tool. Many people think that it is necessary to see a doctor because of such things. The fact is that spasm cannot be predicted. Beginners should be prepared for this effect.

Along the blade and around

With all due respect to those people who taught you how to sharpen kitchen knives and other cutting tools, you must face the facts and use the straight razor stone correctly. You must clearly understand what processes occur with the cutting edge due to certain manipulations with stones. And the first thing you need to know is that any stone leaves scratches on the cutting edge, up to the final stages of processing.

When you move the cutting edge across the stone, this has a positive effect on the sharpness of the razor. The furrows will be across the blade. In this case, the razor will withstand a lot of stress when cutting, cutting and planing and will not become dull for a very long time.

This is not to say that circular and longitudinal movements will not lead to the fact that the razor will become sharp. However, it will remain so for a short time. The fact is that longitudinal grooves create thinning in some places. This leads to the fact that the razor gradually breaks off in weak places. "Where it is thin, there it breaks." With this approach, you will have to use the straight razor stone very often.
It is acceptable to use circular and longitudinal movements on non-abrasive stones that do not cut the cutting edge. Such a straight razor stone is designed to harden the tool.

Don't push!

Excessive pressure on the tool is a common mistake of new straight razor owners. It is important to observe gradation here. At the very beginning of sharpening, when the cutting edge is roughly processed, the pressure on the razor should be significant. The next time you use the razor, you should gradually reduce the pressure. In the final stages, the razor should press down on the stone only under the weight of its own weight. In some cases, even this pressure should be reduced.

Why is this so important? The fact is that with high pressure, the razor bends, and you do not process the tip of the cutting edge, but areas that are slightly higher. This will not lead to a positive result and can ruin the razor with special diligence.

Appearance or performance?

Even professionals often use duct tape or other layers when using the stone to straighten and sharpen straight razors. In the short term, this will not lead to serious problems. However, after 10-15 such sharpenings, the razor will work worse and worse. Why? Explanations will be required.

Insulating tape and other layers are used in order not to damage the butt of the razor with abrasive materials. This measure contributes to the fact that the razor looks aesthetically pleasing, no roughness remains on it, and a mirror-like purity is maintained. But using such devices, you break the geometry of the tool. It is already made so that everyone can sharpen it without resorting to the use of other materials and tools than stones.

When you use duct tape, you change the angle of the sharpening. He gets dumber. Accordingly, the razor itself becomes dumber and dumber each time, despite the fact that you use a microscope to monitor its condition and other tricks. Therefore, we strongly do not recommend the use of electrical tape.
Use of poor quality abrasives
It is quite difficult for a beginner to buy stones for straight razors and not make a mistake in choosing. If you buy a cheap low quality stone, you risk not only not achieving the desired result, but also ruining your razor. Such products are sold at every step at prices ranging from 20 to 200 rubles. As a rule, they are made in China.

Determining that an abrasive stone is not right for you is not easy. First, look at the price tag. A good tool cannot be too cheap. After purchasing, test the stone on something less gentle than a straight razor. Take a kitchen knife and try to sharpen it. If in the process grains break off from the stone or they are located on it in small clusters, then it can be thrown away, “buying your mind” in this way.

Why are chipping grains so bad? They can be fatal to the cutting edge! Breaking off, they begin to roll between the surface of the stone and the cutting edge. This leads to blade damage and serious chipping. Naturally, this has a negative effect on sharpness.

Align the rocks!

It is very rare to find a perfectly even stone that will become a true friend to your straight razor. Therefore, any stone, whether it is just from the package or the old one that you inherited from your great-grandfather, should be leveled before use. An exception will be stones of the DMT brands. But even among such products there are crooked goods that need fine-tuning.
Finishing is a rather complicated process. It can be carried out using another stone of a smaller section or special tools. In this matter, it is better not to take risks once again and contact a specialist.

Cleaning before use

During storage, the stones are covered with dust. Dust particles, although small, serve as an additional abrasive that interferes with work. Brush off all debris from the stone with your hand, both before use and during operation. Wash and moisten water stones in a timely manner to achieve maximum results.

If you take care of sharpening stones for straight razors, which you can buy in our certified online store, then your tool will delight you every day with sharpness and efficiency. Don't make common mistakes and keep improving!

Honing- this is abrasive processing using honing heads - hones, which makes it possible to obtain surfaces with a high quality of accuracy.

If you bought an already sharpened razor, this article is unlikely to interest you. In addition, it is important to remember that a well-sharpened razor lasts 2-3 months on average, but it happens that some people manage to use it for half a year or a year. The key principle in honing a razor blade is that the blade should lie flat on the abrasive and move sharp edge first. It's really simple. But at the same time it is very difficult.

Honing is more than just sharpening knives. First of all, you need a special abrasive. There are at least three options here.

Firstly, water stone - they are used for sharpening tools in woodworking. There are artificial and natural. They usually contain alumina, ceramic and silicon carbide. It should be moistened with plenty of water. Holding the razor with your thumb and forefinger, you need to drive the razor along the stone.

It is better to use a large stone, on which the entire blade is placed (and preferably with a margin of 5 cm), otherwise you will have to maintain the correct sharpening angle manually. It is important that both the tip of the blade and the comb (“spine”) of the razor are pressed against the stone. Having reached the edge of the stone, turn the razor over and now press it with the other side.

Now move it back towards you. One pass in each direction. As a result, the movement looks like this: away from you, turn over, towards yourself. A full circle is one sharpening cycle. The most important thing in the sharpening process is to keep the razor in contact with the abrasive with an insignificant pressing force. It is especially important that the pressing force is the same when passing on both sides of the razor - this way the tip of the blade will be even. If you do not want to scratch the razor comb, then you should seal it with ordinary electrical tape.

The second way is old-fashioned ceramic hons (whetstones). These are often referred to as "butcher's rods". You can try to buy them on eBay or use domestic diamonds. They are softer than water stone and can be used for eyeliner blades. Can be dry sharpened or wetted with water. Usually such whetstones are small, but they give an excellent result.

The third way is fine abrasive chips or sandpaper. Abrasives require frequent replacement, but they are quite cheap.

Of course, there is also a complex “Russian version”: first, sharpen on a finely dispersed stone for knives, then on a surface of the smallest diamond chips, then on a belt (from a special hairdresser’s to an ordinary officer’s) - apply paste (from GOI paste to expensive imported ones) and on the smooth surface of the belt to grind to the point of stupefaction.

Now about the process itself. How to understand when sharpening is over? For a beginner, this is not easy. Steel is ductile, and it is quite easy to get nicks, a bend in the edge of the blade, or even kinks during the sharpening process. Therefore, do not get involved in the process. The best approach is to sharpen, try to shave, sharpen some more.

You can try on the hair of the left forearm - they are less rigid than on the beard. If the razor goes smoothly and does not resist - it is ready for shaving.

For those who approach the sharpening process as a scientific work, it is possible to control the sharpening process under a microscope. A handheld microscope with 10x magnification is inexpensive, but unfortunately it is difficult to see the edge of the blade under it. A microscope with 10..60x magnification, powered by batteries, gives the best result. But at maximum magnification, the quality suffers too much. The ideal option would be a professional platform microscope with a USB connection to a computer. But, of course, the best way to control the degree of sharpening is simply to feel it.

What to do if the blade is oversharpened? Usually in this case, reverse honing is used: a bar is driven along a fixed blade. If the razor is properly and accurately sharpened, then it can be used for several months before the next sharpening.