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How to remove drying oil from a wooden surface. How and why to remove drying oil from a wooden surface. Trial removal of the top layer of drying oil

Drying oil is used as a protective impregnation of a wooden or metal surface before painting. It is a transparent liquid, which includes vegetable oils (natural drying oil), alkyd resins (alkyd drying oil) or a combination of them (combined drying oil).

The question of how to remove drying oil is very important for many. Since often in the process of construction work it can be contaminated not only with clothes, but also with other surfaces on which greasy stains remain. What further complicates the cleaning process is the desiccant included in its composition, or a substance that promotes rapid absorption. Therefore, removing drying oil is not as easy as it seems at first glance. To do this, you need to know some rules.

First of all, the cleaning method depends on the composition of the drying oil itself.

Removal of natural drying oil of plant origin

Natural or plant-based drying oils can be removed with a conventional grease stain remover.

  • To do this, moisten a foam sponge or a piece of rag in a small amount of such a substance and rub the stain.
  • Then leave it alone for a while, about 10-15 minutes.
  • Then wipe with a damp sponge or rinse in water if it is a cloth.

Removal of synthetic combination or alkyd drying oil

Drying oil, which incorporates alkyd resins, is removed using one of these substances.

regular gasoline

Almost any drying oil can be removed with gasoline.

  • Wet a small piece of rag with gasoline and apply it to the surface to be cleaned.
  • Rinse thoroughly after about 15 minutes.
  • Depending on the degree of contamination, this procedure can be done several more times.

White Spirit

The action of this substance is similar to gasoline.

  • In the same way, we moisten a piece of rag with white spirit and treat the surface to be cleaned with it.
  • Treatment with white spirit can be carried out several times in a row until the drying oil is completely removed.

Thinner for oil paint, for example, SOLVENT, R-646, etc.

The cleaning procedure is the same as with the use of the two previous white spirits or gasoline. However, this method is more complex and laborious, as it requires good exposure and considerable time. Cleaning should be carried out until the lowest layer of the tree is completely cleared.

Removing drying oil from various surfaces

Wood, plywood

Drying oil is applied to a wooden surface before painting as a primer or in order to save paint consumption. In order for the finished coating to be of high quality, it is necessary to allow drying oil to dry well before painting. Sometimes, due to the large amount of drying oil applied, she does not have time to do this. In order for the paint to be applied evenly, it is necessary to remove excess drying oil from the surface.

It is quite difficult to do this, since this substance tends to be absorbed very quickly and penetrate into the deepest layers of wood in a matter of minutes. Therefore, only the top layer of wood can be cleaned using the means already listed. At the same time, at least 4-5 treatments with gasoline or solvent will be needed with an interval of 20 minutes.

The process of removing drying oil from the wooden walls of the house can be viewed on the video.

Another way to remove drying oil from a wooden surface is to use a building hair dryer.

  • To do this, we heat alternately small sections of wood.
  • As soon as its surface begins to be covered with small bubbles, remove all contaminants with a rag.

stone, brick

When facing the facades of buildings, special mastics are often used, which include drying oil.

  • To remove it from a stone or brick surface, a mixture consisting of one part borax, trisodium phosphate and three parts talc is used.
  • The paste thus obtained with the addition of soap is applied to the surface to be cleaned until it is completely dry.
  • Then, using a dampened sponge or rag, gently rinse it off.

In addition, drying oil is quite easy to remove from a stone surface using ordinary pharmacy hydrogen peroxide. To do this, a sponge or a piece of rag is moistened with peroxide and wiped over the contaminated area of ​​​​a brick or stone surface until the stain completely disappears.

Textile

Removal of drying oil from the fabric is carried out by the same means that were listed above. At the same time, it is necessary to separate fresh stains and already outdated ones. Fresh ones are undeniably easier to get rid of.

  • And dried stains should first be softened with margarine or butter, and only then proceed with cleaning with turpentine or gasoline.
  • The cleaning process is completed by treatment with a 10% solution of ammonia. The latter sometimes causes discoloration of some fabrics, so it should be used with caution.

From cotton fabric, the stain from drying oil is removed with ammonia or green soap, and from woolen fabrics - by wiping with a mixture of green soap, ammonia and wine alcohol.

  • On colored fabrics, a hot solution of pure glycerin is also used, with which a cotton wool is moistened and pressed against the stain.
  • Periodically, such a cotton swab must be changed to a new one until the drying oil is completely removed from the surface of the fabric.

How to get rid of the smell of drying oil

Regardless of which drying oil removal method you choose for yourself, it is important to understand that in most cases, harmful toxic substances are used for this. Therefore, it is better to use a mask or respirator during work. In addition, surfaces treated with linseed oil retain its unpleasant odor for a long time.

  • You can get rid of it, first of all, by regularly airing the room.
  • In addition, some experts recommend installing 2-3 containers with salt or water in the room, which should be changed once a day.

By the term "disclosure" we mean the release of the icon from later layers to the original (author's) paint layer (1 .

The purpose of the trial disclosure is to develop a technique for removing layers of coverage and records.

Trial disclosure is usually performed on an irresponsible area of ​​the icon (field, background) characteristic of the general state of the surface (Fig. 69).


Fig.69. Opening, test.

Trial opening is usually performed on the left half of the icon, at the top: this area, as a rule, is distinguished by good preservation of the primer and paint layer.

4.3.2.1. Trial removal of the top layer of drying oil

Work begins by identifying suitable solvent mixtures (see Sections 4.2, 4.2.1).

On a selected area of ​​the surface with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bno more than 1x2 cm, the drying oil is moistened with a swab with light rotational movements, without pressing it. The swab leaves a golden brown mark. This means that the drying oil is dissolved. In this case, it can be removed by repeatedly wetting the treated area with swabs; moreover, in each new tampon, the dissolved drying oil should be absorbed freely. The swab is replaced after saturation.

ATTENTION! Work should be stopped immediately and another solvent should be selected (see Sections 4.2, 4.2.1) if, in addition to the golden-brown color of drying oil, another color appears in the color of the tampon (the color of that part of the icon that is being opened).

Under the influence of a solvent, drying oil can only soften and swell. In this case, it is removed, also wetting with swabs, and then shifting without mechanical effort with a scalpel.

However, it is rarely possible to remove drying oil by working with a swab or a swab and a scalpel. If the drying oil does not soften, it is necessary to increase the exposure time of the solvent. To do this, use a compress (Fig. 70.).


Fig.70. Compress.

The test of the effect of the solvent on the drying oil begins with small exposures (1-2 minutes) and gradually, increasing the exposure, select the optimal time when the drying oil has softened, but the paint layer is not affected.

A small piece of fabric is placed on the surface of the icon and evenly moistened with a solvent (see Section 4.2) using a pipette or dropper, making sure that no dry areas remain on the fabric. The compress should fit snugly against the surface so that there are no air bubbles - then the film will be removed evenly. In addition, the cloth must be moistened so that excess liquid does not spread over the surface of the film. The fabric is covered with glass. Putting a compress, note the exact time. After 1-2 minutes, the effect of the solvent is checked as follows: by moving the glass a little, lift the edge of the compress with tweezers and try to remove the drying oil with a swab moistened with the same solvent.

If the drying oil has not softened enough, the edge of the fabric is lowered to its original place and again covered with glass.

This operation is performed repeatedly, until the softened drying oil is easily removed with a swab or shifted with a scalpel.

At the end of the process, it is necessary to note the time required to soften the drying oil. So, if the drying oil has not softened during an exposure of 20-25 minutes, a compress moistened with a more active solvent should be applied (see section 4.2).

ATTENTION! You should not increase the exposure for more than 25 minutes, because - without softening the cover film - the solvent will begin to penetrate the paint layer and primer through the craquelures.

When removing drying oil, it must be remembered that the adhesion of the cover film with different pigments included in the color of the restored icon can be different, and to reveal the layer of painting on one icon, the use of different exposures is required. Therefore, it is sometimes necessary to perform several trial disclosures on the icon in its various parts (Fig. 69,71). Thus, it is known that heating drying oil during coating of the paint layer (see Section 1.1) contributed to its rapid drying and the formation of a strong cover film, but at the same time, some oil-intensive pigments were intensively impregnated, pigments were soldered with drying oil to the entire depth of the paint layer. This circumstance should be taken into account when removing drying oil and records. So, glauconite, ocher have a greater oil absorption than white lead and cinnabar. This means that the exposure of the compress to cinnabar will be much less than, for example, to ocher. The exposure of the compress should be minimal when revealing drawings, ornaments, inscriptions made with paints on gilding. It is also known that drying oil lying on green paints containing copper is especially difficult to remove. (Chemical analyzes of drying oil from such areas show that it contains a large amount of copper.)

4.3.2.2. Trial layered disclosure of the icon

Organic solvents for a certain time do not immediately soften all the layers of records and drying oils that are on the author's painting - but layer by layer. This circumstance makes it possible to perform layer-by-layer trial opening to determine the number of recording layers and intermediate layers of drying oil, as well as (which is very important) the softening time of each of these layers.

When choosing a site for a trial opening on an icon located under the inscription, the X-ray pattern is of decisive importance (see Section 2.1 and Fig. 61b), since, by blindly deleting the inscription, in the area chosen at random, you can get on the insertion of reparative gesso or for loss (which may be the only one given the general good preservation of the painting), and the results of a trial opening may give an incorrect idea of ​​​​the nature and preservation of the original layer.

Trial layer-by-layer disclosure is performed on a small area of ​​​​the icon, from 6x3 to 10x5 cm, the size of which depends, firstly, on the size of the icon itself, and secondly, on the expected number of recording layers and intermediate layers of drying oil (see Part II. About coatings...).

In this area, the top layer of drying oil is removed (see section 4.3.2.1).

The upper layer of the recording opens, for softening and removing which a compress is prepared by cutting out a piece of fabric; its width is equal to the width of the area from which the drying oil was removed, and its length is 0.5-1 cm less than the length of the corresponding surface area (Fig. 70). The compress is placed on the area opened from the drying oil along its lower border. The softening time of the record is determined empirically (see Section 4.3.2.1). The record is removed with a swab.

This opens the underlying recording layer or drying oil. To soften and remove this layer, a compress of the same width is again prepared: its length is again 0.5-1 cm less than the previous one. Then proceed as described above.

The operation is repeated until the initial (author's) layer of painting opens.

All layers of records and intermediate layers of drying oil in the area with a trial opening are numbered. Numbering starts from the bottom, from the author's paint layer. So, the lowest layer of the record is the 1st, below it the 2nd and so on. The intermediate layers of drying oil are numbered with the same number as the recording layer that is simultaneous with it, but with the index "o" (lining oil). Thus, the numbering may look like this: "1, 1o, 2, 2o, 3, Zo" (Fig. 71). The numbers on the layers of recording and drying oil are applied with easily removable white paint (for example, gouache) by means of a brush or written with ink on small paper labels, sticking them onto the paint layer with a weak solution of fish glue.

a b
Fig.71. Numbering of record layers and drying oil.

Drying oil of any kind contains a desiccant, a substance designed to ensure its drying. Drying oil is intended for priming a wooden surface to be coated with paint. Surfaces primed with linseed oil require a much smaller amount of paintwork material for their painting.

Like any other substance, drying oil sticks to clothes that need to be cleaned. Sometimes it is required to remove drying oil from wooden structures.

To remove stains from clothes, use the means used to eliminate stains from vegetable oils and resins.

To remove it from clothes or wood you will need: 100 grams of gasoline, one half-liter bottle of thinner for oil paints and white spirit, stain remover, rags, sponge.

You can also use petrol. For this purpose, dip a rag or other vetosh.com.ua in gasoline and moisten the place stained with drying oil with it. Repeat this action, then wash the clothes in the usual way.

With the help of gasoline, drying oil is also removed from wooden structures. Only in these circumstances it must be remembered that it is possible to remove its upper layer, since it penetrates very deeply into the tree. To remove it from the deeper layers of the tree, you need to use a mechanical removal method.

You can replace gasoline to remove drying oil with white spirit. The principle of removing it is the same as with gasoline. It is necessary to moisten a rag in white spirit and moisten the stain with drying oil with it until it disappears from the clothes. Then wash the clothes.

Drying oil is quite effectively removed from clothes using an oil solvent. The stain is wetted with a solvent and wiped with a rag until the clothes are clean.

Drying oil cannot be removed with acetone, it does not dissolve vegetable oil and resins.

If the owner of clothes stained with drying oil has no desire to resort to the help of the above listed means, then he can use a building hair dryer: the drying oil is heated up and removed by scraping.

Drying oil is removed from clothes with the help of a household stain remover. But only if it is natural, without the addition of resins, for example linen, since drying oil with the addition of resins is not removed by a stain remover.

Drying oil with the addition of resins can only be removed using the above means. Using other means can ruin clothes.

Any drying oil has an oil composition with the addition of a desiccant, a drying agent. A solvent is added to the composite drying oils, white spirit is added to the alkyd oils, as well as petroleum polymer resins. Drying oil is used for pre-coating any surfaces before painting, which makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of paint, which, as usual, is several orders of magnitude more expensive than drying oil. Delete drying oil surfaces are allowed with compositions prepared to remove vegetable oil and resin.

You will need

  • – gasoline;
  • - solvent for oil paints;
  • - White Spirit;
  • - building hair dryer;
  • - stain remover;
  • - rags;
  • - sponge.

Instruction

1. In fact, any drying oil is removed from the surface with the help of gasoline. Moisten a large piece of cloth, apply to the drying oil, after 15 minutes re-moisten the cloth and remove drying oil by flushing. If drying oil is applied to wooden surfaces, then you will be able to remove only the top layer, because the composition is highly absorbed into the tree, and it will not be possible to remove it primitively inside.

2. Instead of gasoline, you can use white spirit. Act the same way. Moisten a huge amount of rags and scrupulously treat the surface. Do this several times until the top layer of drying oil is completely removed.

3. Instead of these funds, you can use a solvent for oil paints. Apply the solvent to a rag, treat the desired areas from which you want to remove drying oil. Repeat the procedure several times.

4. Acetone is not suitable for removing drying oil. Because it has a composition that does not dissolve oil paints, therefore, try to wash off drying oil acetone is an ideal obscene occupation.

5. If you want to delete drying oil, without using gasoline, white spirit or solvent, then use a building hair dryer. Heat up small areas on desired surface and wash immediately drying oil with the support of a dry rag.

6. To remove stains from drying oil from the fabric, use one of the indicated products. Moisten the sponge, apply the product to the fabric, leave for 20 minutes, wash the product in the usual way.

7. You can also use a stain remover for thick spots. But it is allowed to use it only if the drying oil is natural and does not contain resin, because the resin is not removed by the stain remover.

8. Use only gasoline, thinner or white spirit to remove stains from drying oil with resin from the fabric. Apply the product to the speck twice. From the first time you may not get the desired result.

Instruction

1. Drying oil has been used for a very long time, for many years it was made on the basis of various vegetable oils, but since the middle of the last century, alkyd resins and solvents have been used for its production, synthetic resin substitutes are occasionally used. They are of the following types: natural oil, oxol, compound, alkyd, composite (on a synthetic basis).

2. Alkyd and oil paints are used for the manufacture of various types of paints, which are used in both interior and exterior work. Paints of this type can be used for painting different types of materials. Natural or oil drying oil can be used to dilute thickly grated or oil paints.

3. Different types of drying oil are used to impregnate wooden surfaces. Surfaces impregnated with this compound, when painted, greatly reduce (up to several times!) the consumption of paint and varnishes. It is also allowed to process wooden products with linseed oil without subsequent painting, because the use of resins largely protects against the effects of atmospheric precipitation and protects against wood decay processes.

4. Solutions, as usual, are already ready for use. It is more comfortable for everyone to pour them into wide containers for paints or special trays. It is allowed to work with both a roller and wide brushes, while being careful: drying oil flows and its drops are difficult to wash off.

5. The color that the resin leaves depends on the number of layers, therefore, be diligent to work end-to-end, and not overlap, otherwise stripes and dark streaks cannot be avoided.

6. When applying drying oil, the color and texture of the wood is preserved, it is allowed to use alkyd drying oil for emphasizing, it has wonderful collations in terms of durability, stability and when exposed to atmospheric precipitation.

7. For indoor use, natural oil drying oil is recommended due to its environmental friendliness. This composition is odorless, dries quickly enough and does not emit any harmful substances. An exceptional drawback of such drying oil is its high cost. When working, it is not necessary to use protective equipment.

8. For a budget type of repair, an alkyd drying oil based on white spirit is offered. The disadvantages of this solution can be attributed to its unnatural composition and toxicity. True, this drying oil dries faster than natural, a special smell remains in the room for a long time, therefore it is recommended to use it in well-ventilated rooms and when carrying out outdoor work. When working with this drying oil, gloves and a respirator must be used.

9. It is also allowed to cover various kinds of concrete surfaces with drying oil after plastering, before painting. Processed, they are better painted, and at the same time the paint is spent extremely economically. It is also allowed to cover ceilings with drying oil if you cover them with oil paints in the future.

When carrying out construction work, sometimes situations arise when drying oil is required to be removed from a wooden or brick surface. Having in its composition vegetable oils, resins and desiccants for quick drying, it is very difficult to remove it from any surface. Used to pre-treat wood surfaces before painting, it causes stains on clothing. How to remove drying oil from clothes is probably the most relevant and frequently asked question.

Drying oil can be removed from the fabric using an ordinary stain remover, but only if it is of plant origin, without being included in the resins. It is enough to wipe the contaminated area with a sponge dipped in stain remover and wait 15-20 minutes. Then wash with normal detergent.

If the composition contains petroleum polymer resins, it is necessary to remove drying oil with gasoline or a solvent. Acetone is not suitable for these purposes, since its composition does not dissolve oil paints. After treating the contaminated surface 2-3 times and washing, you can completely remove drying oil from clothes.

As for the wooden surface, it is much more difficult to remove drying oil, since it deeply impregnates the structure of the tree and only the surface layer is peeled off. Cleansing is carried out in several steps. After wetting the rag with gasoline or solvent, it is necessary to wipe the surface covered with drying oil and, after waiting about 20 minutes, repeat the procedure again. After 4 - 5 treatments, the surface layer will be removed.

You can clean the wooden surface using a building hair dryer. Consistently heating small areas of the surface, it is quite easy to remove drying oil with a rag. It is important to start cleansing as soon as the surface begins to become covered with small bubbles.

Often, when facing the socles and facades of buildings, for jointing, mastics based on drying oil are used and such stains are quite difficult to remove. To remove drying oil, a composition prepared from one part of trisodium phosphate, one part of borax, three parts of talc is used. Pounded into a paste, soap-based, the mixture is applied to the contaminated area until completely dry. Then it is removed with a damp cloth.

Drying oil can be removed from masonry with hydrogen peroxide. The usual pharmacy solution is used. With a rag moistened with peroxide, it is necessary to wipe the contaminated area until the stain disappears completely. Thanks to the reaction of peroxide and the active substances of drying oil, it is possible to completely clean the brick surface.