Processing with an oblique inlay of the inner and outer corners of the product. Beautiful corners: masterclass

Good evening everyone!
We are often asked how to make beautiful corners on tablecloths, napkins and curtains. It's clear! After all, everyone wants beautiful. If a thing is sewn beautifully and of high quality, then it looks very interesting and much more advantageous than a sewn one anyhow.
Therefore, if you are interested in how we do it, then please, under the cut: the technology is not very complicated. but there are certain tricks that we are happy to share with you

I will show you a beautiful processing of corners using the example of sewing a napkin, but as I said. in this way, the corners are processed on both curtains and tablecloths.

Usually we make table napkins in the size 35 * 35 or 40 * 40
and a hem on them 4cm in finished form. (this is actually not necessary, according to this principle you can make a narrower hem)

To end up with a 40 * 40 cm napkin, you need to add 8 cm from each edge to the hem: that is, the hem is DOUBLE !!! I will explain why this is done: the fabric for tablecloth or curtain is quite dense. and if a small inner hem is made, then it does not stand out beautifully on the napkin. If the hem is double. then the edge of the napkin is smooth and without any "bumps".
So, we cut out the curtain side 40 + 8 + 8 cm = 56 cm

1) fold the corner of the napkin diagonally (an angle of 45 degrees is obtained). mark a point on the fold, which is located at a distance of 8 cm from the edge (this is our allowance).
2) draw a perpendicular from this point at a right angle

3) on the drawn line, we are looking for a point from which the distance to the edge will be 4 cm (half of our hem)

4) we cover the corner from the fold of the fabric to the mark where the distance to the edge is 4 cm (point 3)

5) cut the resulting corner at a distance of 5 mm from the seam.

5) straighten and iron the seam

6) turn out the corner

On a napkin scale, it looks like this:

7) steam bends 8 cm from corner to corner

And this is what we get:

8) now we lay in the hem by 4 cm

How to process corners with a bias tape? You will need the answer to this question when working on complex cutouts in women's and children's clothing, as well as when sewing home textiles: decorative blankets, napkins and panels, aprons and potholders.

Our master class will show in detail how to process the corners with an oblique inlay with your own hands quickly and accurately. It's not difficult at all! We'll look at outside and inside right angles.

How to process corners with an oblique inlay: basics and nuances

How to process the corners with an oblique inlay with your own hands? Bias binding is a very convenient material for processing and finishing the edges of any products. You can purchase a ready-made bias tape at your nearest sewing supply store. It comes in different widths and colors, and you can choose the bias inlay that suits your project.

However, making a bias binding with your own hands is not at all difficult! We recommend using only your own bias tape when it is visible from the front of the garment.

The bias tape is cut out at an angle of 45 degrees to the shared thread of the fabric.

Most often it has a width of 3 cm, but you can increase it at your discretion. The cut strip of fabric should be ironed in half lengthwise, and then both long cuts should be ironed to this middle line. That's all!

The processing of corners with a bias tape can be made with a finishing stitch on the front side or fixed by hand, with a blind seam on the wrong side. We will show you how to sew an inner corner with machine stitching and an outer corner with a blind stitch.

So, let's find out how to process the corners with a bias inlay with our own hands!

Outside corner

Fold the bias tape with the right sides of the fabric. Sew without reaching the edge with a distance equal to the width of the allowance. That is, if you are stitching 5 mm away from the edge (the future edge width in finished form), then you need to finish the seam 5 mm before the edge.

Pull the part out from under the needle. Fold the bias tape upward, exactly from the last stitch.

Pull the binding down as shown in the photo. Pin or clip together.

Sew, starting at the same distance as you left the previous one.

Sew the edge of the bias tape with a blind stitch by hand. Also grab the corner seam. Iron.

Inner corner

Reinforce the spot near the inner corner with a stitching. Cut the corner with scissors almost to the line.

Align the tape with the right side of the product and cleave, opening the corner so that the cuts form a straight line.

Tape around the cuts and pin to the allowances. Bend the corner gently.

In this master class, the technology is given on how to trim the edge of a blanket with a bias tape. Trimming a right corner of a quilt.

How to cut strips of fabric for edging

The strips for the edging of the blanket should be within 4 - 5 cm wide. It is very convenient to use a long wooden or metal ruler (meter) to mark the strips.

You can cut the strips for the bias tape from scraps of fabric, and then join them together into one long tape.

To connect the strips of inlay correctly, you will definitely need to cut the edges of the strips to be sewn at an angle of 45 degrees.

It is advisable to make the allowance no more than 0.8 cm. The main thing is that the sewing line on both sides coincides with the edges of the lower strip, as shown in this photo. If this condition is not met, the unfolded strips sewn together will be offset relative to each other.

Make sure that the top strip does not slip under the foot.

The seam of the bias inlay is ironed on the seamy side.

This is how the bias tape connected together should look like, it remains only to cut off the corners, trim the strip.

Processing of a blanket with an oblique inlay

Now you can start edging the blanket.

To make it easier to sew on the edging, you should first prepare the edges of the blanket. Pin or sweep the top of the lined blanket.

After that, you need to lay a connecting line, retreating from the edge of the blanket no more than 1 cm, so that this seam was later hidden by a stitched inlay.

Before sewing on the inlay, it must be prepared and ironed.
First fold the strip of fabric, bringing both sides together, but not flush, leaving 2 to 3 mm between the inner edges.

After that, fold the tape twice as shown in the photo and iron it in this position. Note that the edges are slightly offset from each other. This is optional, but recommended. In this form, the tape will be easier to sew along the edge of the blanket.

Placing the right angle of the bias tape

Edging a right angle with an oblique inlay is a rather complicated operation and not everyone will be able to do this operation efficiently the first time. It is especially difficult to accomplish this without a sketch, as shown in my master class.

Make a pencil mark like this inside the unfolded inlay so that the angle is exactly 90 degrees.

Sew the inner corner, as shown in the photo, without going over the hem line, on both sides of the hem.

Now you need to cut these parts of the inlay, as shown in the photo, almost to the very corner, not reaching 2-3 mm.

In addition, it is necessary to cut off these parts, departing from the seam 0.6 - 0.8 cm.

Now you need to turn this section of the inlay with an awl or a pencil and you will get a right angle.

Pin the corner of the edging with pins, as shown in the photo.

The corner of the edging should match the corner of the blanket.

In this photo, you can see that the top line of the ironed tape should lie along the edge of the duvet.

You need to sew the inlay on the side that turned out a little bit shorter during the ironing of the edging (see above).
You need to start processing the corner of the inlay not from the corner, but back a little, about 15 - 20 cm.

Once you reach the corner, without lifting the fabric needle, turn the blanket and continue attaching the tape. Constantly "look" on the seamy side, checking how the needle captures the other half of the inlay.

Do not try to repeat my master class, be sure to sweep the tape before sewing it on the sewing machine.

From this side, the stitching along the edge of the bake will look neater and prettier, since you could control how the stitch is laid.

On the back of a blanket, an unbummed stitching will not always be perfect, even by an experienced seamstress.

In this master class, only one operation is shown - how to process a right angle with inlay. If you are able to turn over the corner, it will not be difficult to sew the piping along the flat sections of the blanket.

CORNER PROCESSING

Corner processing is an operation that is not distinguished by a particularly complex technology, but requires certain knowledge, and, most importantly, great accuracy. Distinguish between external (easier to handle) and internal corners. They are processed with a hem, as well as trimming details (edging) cut from the main fabric, in products made of coarse and loose fabrics - from cotton fabric (in tone). Internal corners are most often found in a neckline, yokes, kimonos with wedges, etc., external corners - when sealing the corners of napkins and tablecloths; when processing pockets, yokes, sides of products.

EXTERNAL CORNERS

Bent cut processing. Fold an edge 3-5 mm wide to the wrong side, press to indicate the fold line, and then fold back. To obtain a clear angle, fold the fabric along the bisector with the front side inward (Fig.5.35, a), bend the edge by the width of the hem allowance (Fig.5.35, b), press it, marking the second hem line, and bend it again. Now bend the triangle through the top of which the fold line passes (Figure 5.35, c). Iron the fold line of the triangle, and bend the triangle itself and sew along the ironing line. Cut the triangle at a distance of 5 mm from the line (Fig.5.35, d). Cut the fabric along the fold line of the fabric to the seam. Iron the seam seam (Figure 5.35, d), turn the part to the front side, sweep around the edge, fold and hem the previously marked hem (Figure 5.35, e).

Trimming. Corner processing can be decorative, especially if the trimmings are made of fabrics of a different color from the base color. For processing cuts along the warp or weft threads, you can use straight cut trims. The corner will look aesthetically pleasing if you process it carefully. Even the slightest stretching or tightening of the part of the part spoils the appearance of the entire product. To ensure that the cut piece is not visible from the front side, place it with the front side on the front side of the piece to be processed.

If it should be visible from the front side (for decorative purposes), apply it, pin it and baste it with the front side on the wrong side of the item being processed (Fig.5.36, a). In the corner, grind the part along the bisector, and cut off the excess fabric. Iron the seam seam, cut off the protruding corners (Fig.5.36, b). Then bend the part to the front (seamy) side, sweep the edge and press it, fold the cut, baste and sew it by hand or by machine (Fig.5.36, c). If you use a material with a pattern for processing a corner, for example, with stripes, it is necessary to cut out a part from it, taking into account the direction and coincidence of the pattern in the fillet weld (Fig.5.37).

Processing with corner trimming. In order to avoid a seam along its bisector when processing a corner, use edging cut out to the shape of the element being processed. Such trims are widely used when processing corners in tablecloths, duvet covers, neckline (inner corners), etc. They can be rectangular along an oblique thread from a single or double-folded fabric according to the drawn shape of the item being processed. However, much faster they can be cut out like this.

Fold the fabric in four (Fig.5.38). From point A along the fold lines, set aside equal distances corresponding to the size of the element to be processed and the width of the cut trim. Connect the marked points with straight lines with chalk or remnants. To prevent the layers of material from shifting relative to each other during cutting, sweep them along the marked lines. Then, along the same lines, cut the material and unfold the edging.

If the fabric is folded in four so that the folds are along an oblique thread (Fig.5.39), and perform all the operations just described, you will get a rectangular piece along a straight thread. Depending on the need, cut parts can be cut along the bisectors of the corners. For sharp or obtuse corners, cut out rhombus trims. Fold the fabric in the same way as in fig. 5.38, but from point A (Fig. 5.40) in both directions, set aside various segments, depending on the size of the workpiece and the angle. Handle the elements of the product with corner pieces very carefully, precisely observing the direction of the longitudinal thread.

Bottom side processing. The ability to process the hem will come in handy when sewing blouses and shirts with a through button fastening. First fold the hem, and then sew the hem with blind stitches at the locations shown in fig. 5.41, a.

Stitched corners. These corners are very strong. They are used in sportswear, underwear (underwear, table and bed linen), that is, primarily where the sections are also stitched. To reduce the thickness of the corner in low-shedding tissues, the inner part should be cut (Figure 5.41, b). Mark the hem lines on the work piece. Bend the material along these lines, iron it and straighten it again. Then cut out a rectangle (inner part); bend the material again, sweep the cuts and sew in one of the ways (Fig. 5.41, c).

Hemstitching. This is a decorative way to handle corners. Begin pulling the threads out of the fabric at a distance equal to twice the hem width plus 5 mm for the hem. Fold the fabric along the hem, press it on, and straighten it again. In the corner, cut out a rectangle - the inner part (Fig.5.42).

Bend the fabric again along the ironing lines so that the parts with the stretched threads line up. Sweep and sew the folded edges along with the hemstitching. Then hem the edges of one side of the corner with blind stitches.

INTERNAL CORNERS

Such angles can be found in the neckline of the square, in the sleeves of a kimono, yokes, etc. Their processing is more difficult and requires great care and accuracy.

Right angle processing. First, cut a 6x6 cm square out of the base or lining fabric.

Place it right side to the front side of the work piece and stitch. Cut the protruding corner of the square. Then cut the seam allowance along the bisector of the corner to the line (Fig. 5.43, a). Bend the cut along with the square inside out (Fig. 5.43, b), sweep and iron it (Fig. 5.43, c).

Processing "at an acute angle". Such processing of corners is used in a kimono when turning gussets, in skirts or dresses with inserts, etc. Lay the cut out square 6x6 cm with the front side to the front side of the workpiece and stitch it "at an acute angle" (along the bisector of the angle) with two converging lines (Fig. 5.44, a). Make a cut between the lines. Bend the sections inside out together with the square and iron. Then baste and stitch on the corresponding detail (Fig. 5.44, b).

A detail (yoke, pocket, flap, etc.) with inner and outer corners or with a complex curly edge can be sewn to the main part with a connecting stitch, a narrow stitching (to the edge) or a stitch of any width, depending on the model.

On a part with an internal corner, make a notch diagonally of the corner, fold it with the main part with the front sides inward and stitch it to the main connecting line, laying it along the part with a notch (Figure 21a). On the front side, you can lay a finishing line (Figure 21b). Another way of processing is to trim the facing according to the shape of the corner to be processed from the same fabric as the part, aligning the direction of the share thread (Figure 21c). Fold the facing and the part with the right sides inward, bending the side cuts by 0.7 cm, pin them or bast them. Sew strictly along the marked line from the wrong side of the part.

An internal right or obtuse corner (Figure 21d) can also be processed with a piece of fabric in the shape of a triangle (use the fabric left after cutting the corner of the part). Cut the seam allowance in the corner diagonally, without finishing by 0.2 cm, and bend to the wrong side (Figure 21e). Sew in the piece of fabric missing to the full angle (Figure 21e), iron the seam, straighten the angle (Figure 21g), sweep. Sew the finished part to the main one.

On parts with external (protruding) corners (bottom of a jacket, skirt, etc.), fold the hem allowance by 0.7 cm (Figure 21h), and fold the fabric diagonally in the corner to the hem allowance, then both allowances bend over the seam along the snare. Sweep, iron. The corner on the wrong side can be tied diagonally with over-stitches and sewn by hand, or a wide finishing stitch can be added to the right side of the part.

When sewing one piece to another with an overhead seam with a wide finishing stitch, process the corner in the same way, but without bending the fabric by 0.7 cm. The fabric allowance for the seam can be folded to the right side (Figure 21i), then sew diagonally from the seamy side. Cut off excess fabric, iron the seam. Turn the corner to the front side (Figure 21k). Sew the detail to the main finishing line according to the model.

When tuning a part with a narrow finishing stitch, fold the curly cut to the wrong side along the intended line, sweep it. In the corners and on the rounding, notch the seam allowance in several places, not cutting to the bend by 0.2-0.3 cm. Press the swept edge down. Place the part on the main one, aligning the folded edge with the marked line, baste and topstitch with a seam 0.1-0.2 cm wide.

When stitching a part with a curly cut line (Figure 21l) with a wide finishing stitch along the edge, process it with a trimming stitch cut out according to the cut shape of the part being sewn from the main or finishing fabric, aligning the direction of the shared thread. The width of the facing depends on the width of the finishing line plus 1-1.5 cm. Its inner cut can be straight or curly. After processing the cut, fold the facing and the part with the front sides inward, pin it with pins or baste along the facing and sew from the seamy side of the part along the marked line. In the corners and on the rounding, notch the seam allowance in several places, without cutting to the machine line by 0.1 cm. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the part, sweep the seam, placing it along the fold or releasing the edge 0.1 cm wide towards the facing. Sweep, iron. Place the finished part on the main one, aligning its edge with the marked line. Topstitch with finishing stitching pattern.