Corset- this is a wardrobe item that can make the figure almost perfect. In the Middle Ages, the corset was very popular, with its help the girls "made" their waists like an hourglass. Court ladies tightened their corset so much that they could not breathe, so most of them fainted at balls. Modern corset It is not underwear and you do not need help to tighten it - you can adjust it yourself.

The corset has always been in fashion., the present is no exception. The corset gives the posture straightness and lightness, the girl stops slouching. To date, the popularity of corsets has increased dramatically, so most girls buy dresses with corsets in stores or sew corsets on their own.

Sew your own corset- not so simple. This is a rather laborious process that requires a lot of strength and patience.

How to sew a corset with your own hands?

You will need:

Textile.

Eyelets for lacing.

Lacing (laces or ribbons).

Scissors.

Threads.

Hole punch for fabric.

Rotary knife.

Bones for a corset.

Instruction:

• Decide on the era for which you want to sew a suit and make a corset pattern.
• Print the pattern in your actual size.
• Attach the pattern pieces to the fabric from which you will sew the corset. Circle the details of the pattern with chalk. Cut out fabric pieces.

• Finish the edges and baste the details. Try on the corset for yourself.
• If the blank fits well, you can start sewing a corset. Sew the details on the sewing machine and start working with the drawstrings. Place the drawstrings where the bones will be inserted. Do not sew the bottom edges of the drawstrings so that the bones can be inserted.
• Insert the bones and sew the bottom edges of the drawstrings. Lace up your corset using pretty lace or ribbon. Holes for lacing are made with a special stapler for fabric.
• The finished corset can be decorated with rhinestones, bows, beads, embroidery and other decorative elements.

How to sew a corset for a dress with your own hands?

You will need:

Outer fabric.

Lining fabric.

Scissors.

Threads.

Bones.

Hooks for fastening.

Instruction:

• Decide on the color and shape of the corset.
• Measure your parameters: hips, waist, chest and side height. Make a corset pattern.
• Using the pattern, cut out part of the corset from the lining fabric. Smooth out the fabric.
• Cut out corset pieces from the outer fabric.
• Sew all pieces together: separately from the lining fabric and separately from the outer fabric. When all the pieces are sewn, smooth the seams with an iron - this will avoid unnecessary creases. Sew the lining and outer fabric so that all seams line up. Sew both fabric patterns and iron them.
• Make channels for the bones - while the lines of the lining and outer fabric should coincide with each other as much as possible.
• Sew a beautiful border over the front side of the corset, wrap it on the inside of the corset. Iron the resulting edge with an iron. Insert the bones into the resulting tubules. Sew the border in the same way as in the bottom of the corset.
• Sew hooks to the corset - these will be fasteners. If necessary, decorative ornaments can be sewn to the corset. If not, then leave the corset as it is.
• Now it remains to sew a skirt to the corset, and the dress will be ready!

It is difficult to sew a corset with your own hands, but it is possible. The main thing is not to quit what you started and not get upset if the first time you do something wrong. As in any other business, to sew a corset with your own hands, you need some experience that comes with every new product.

Especially for LadySpecial.ru - Misnik Svetlana

Kozorovitskaya Tatiana: "For this model, a dense cotton fabric is used. Therefore, additional gluing of parts is not required. For the face of the corset and for the lining, I will use the same fabric so that the density and stretch of the material is the same both on the face and on lining. Corset patterns are prepared with seam allowances (I have 1.2 cm)."

1. For sewing a corset you will need:

dense fabric
sewing threads
sewing threads
regilin 0.8 and 1.2 cm wide
plastic or spiral bones
bias binding 1.5 and 2 cm wide
masking tape
forms for ironing

2. I fold the material in 4 additions, equalizing the fold of the fabric. I lay out the patterns so that the notches of the waist line run parallel to the weft thread, and the central cut of the back is parallel to the share thread. I circle all the patterns of the corset, mark all the notches. I pierce with pins.

3. I cut out all the details of the corset, including the tongue, which I then put under the lacing on the back.

4. I remove the pins, sort out the details. I put the details of the face of the corset aside. I take the central part of the front of the lining and 2 intermediate parts of the front. I draw horizontal lines along the front side with a ruler, connecting the notches of the chest line.

5. I sew the chest reliefs of the lining with a seam allowance of 1.2 cm.

6. I unfold the sewn parts, straighten the seam allowances and sew them on both sides with a 1mm seam from the sewing seam. I repeat the same operation with the second relief.

7. I trim the seam allowances by 0.7 cm.

8. I take a thin regiline bone (0.8 cm), glue the end with masking tape (you can use white electrical tape) and attach it along the drawn line of the chest with two parallel lines. I start attaching the bone from the very edge of the part. At the end, I cut the bone and also glue it with tape.
At the beginning and at the end of the line I make bartacks.

9. I take a narrow oblique trim (1.2-1.5 cm) and stitch it over the bone.

10. I take the side parts of the front of the lining and sew the reliefs. I strictly observe the seam allowance of 1.2 cm.

11. I bend the part, direct the seam allowances towards the side and re-stitch 1 mm from the seam of the stitching of the parts. Thus, I additionally fix the seam of the relief.

12. I take the central details of the back of the lining. I lay an auxiliary machine line along a straight cut of the center of the back to the width of the seam allowance (1.2 cm) on both symmetrical parts.

13. I take the side parts of the back and sew the vertical reliefs with a seam allowance of 1.2 cm.

14. I unfold the part, direct the seam allowance to the center of the back and redraw the relief 1 mm from the seam of the connection of the parts.

15. I connect the side seams of the corset lining with a seam allowance of 1.2 cm.

16. I squander the seam allowances by 1 mm. I cut the allowances by 0.7 cm.

17. I lay a machine line for the width of the seam allowance (1.2 cm) along the bottom of the lining and along the entire upper cut.
Paying attention! When laying this line, in no case should you turn the product on the needle. Start the line from the edge of the product and continue to the end, to the other edge. The intersections of these lines in the corners should be clearly visible.

18. prepare a bone for attaching to the upper edge of the corset from the corner of the neckline to the back. I take a thin bone regilin. I collect, pulling out the fishing lines by 6-7 cm. I single out the last line and pull a little more just for it. The bone is rounded. I give the bone the desired shape. I cut the lines. I wrap it with tape.

19. I apply the glued end of the bone to the intersection of the control lines, not reaching 1-2 mm. I attach the bone only on the outside of the bone with one line. I place the bone 1 mm from the ruler line. On a rounded area, it is desirable to slightly fit the fabric under the bone.

20. I reach the back and cut off the bone without reaching the intersection of the ruler lines by 1-2 mm. I tape the end of the bone. I repeat the operation on the second side of the corset.
You can measure the approximate length of the bone, round the end and sew. And you can start sewing on a straight bone, reach the rounding area, cut off the bone with a margin of 7-8 cm, gather and form a semicircle, continue sewing and at the end cut off the excess, glue it with tape. Make a stitch at the end of the line.

21. Similarly, I collect a thin regiline bone for sewing to the bottom of the lining. I attach on the outside. Apply the bone at a distance of 1 mm from the control line. The inner side of the bone remains on the fly away.
Try not to fit the tissue under the bone!

22. I take a wide bone (1.2 cm) regiline. Tape the end with masking tape. I push the end under the attached horizontal thin bone.
I retreat 1 mm from the control line-ruler. I attach the first line along the edge of the bone. At the end, I cut, glue and hide under a horizontal bone.
I'm making a bind. I lay the second line on the other side of the bone.

23. Similarly, I sew 2 more parallel bones close to each other. The ends can not be glued, because. they are completely hidden under the horizontal bones.
In the same way, sew 3 parallel wide regiline bones and lining on the second half of the back.

24. I am finishing sewing on the horizontal bones. I lay a machine line on the inside of the upper and lower bones. On this work on the lining is almost completed.

25. I take all the details of the front of the corset.

26. I sew all the vertical reliefs of the front and back with a seam allowance of 1.2 cm.

27. This is how it should turn out.

28. I take a pad for ironing and put a form for ironing cups on it.

29. I put a lining on top. With circular movements with an iron with steam, I give the lining cup a beautiful rounded, convex shape.

30. I iron out the seam allowances of all reliefs.

31. On the form for ironing the cup, I give the desired shape to the chest relief.

32. I iron out the relief on both parts of the back.

33. On the plane of the ironing board with an iron with steam, I give the desired shape to the upper bone of the lining. I straighten the vertical bones on the back, I iron the lower bone of the corset.

34. This is what the lining looks like after ironing.

35. On all reliefs of the front part of the corset, I retreat 1.5 cm from above and below and make marks.

36. I sew a wide bone (1.2 cm) regilin along the reliefs of the front. I do not reach the edges of the product 1.5 cm, I focus on the marks. Tape the ends of the bones. I start the seams of attaching bones from the very edge of the product and do not make bartacks!

37. For decorative seams on the bobbin, I used a finishing thread in a contrasting color. Note! I try to combine the edge of the bone with the seam of the connection of the parts. With a bone, I completely cover the seam allowance so that the stitching line runs along the edge of the allowance and fixes it.
This is an important point! Because subsequently, the bones will become drawstrings for pushing through the reinforcing metal (spiral) or plastic bones. And the seam allowance should not wrinkle inside the drawstring.

38. In the same way, I sew the bone on the relief of the back.

39. I sew the side seams of the front of the corset. Seam allowance 1.2 cm.

40. For ironing the side seams, I use a pear tool.

41. To give a beautiful shape to the bone, attached to the relief of the chest, I iron with steam on the form for ironing cups.

42. I sew 2 parallel bones of regilin on the side seam. On both sides of the side seam.

43. I give a beautiful shape to the side seam with the help of an iron on a pear.

44. This is what the front of the corset looks like after ironing.

45. I take the lining and face, fold it along the neck line face to face. I combine corners, cuts and seams of reliefs. I chip with pins.

46. ​​I grind along the control line-ruler.

47. I check the quality of the stitching.

48. I take a strip of organza 2.5-3 cm wide. The strip can be torn off from any cut of organza along the weft thread. From the side of the lining I put on the seam of the neck. And I sew it either exactly into the previous seam, or at a distance of 1 mm towards the seam allowance.
Important point! Under the organza, in places of rounding, try to slightly fit the neckline of the corset for a good fit to the chest and to prevent stretching during wear.

49. I bend the strip of organza up, towards the allowance and re-stitch by 1 mm.

50. I unfold the details and complete the line "to a clean edge." On the lining, I lay a bartack line 1 mm from the seam, grabbing the allowance.

51. I turn it inside out again and cut the seam allowance with organza by 0.5 cm. The neckline of the corset is strengthened and fitted.

52. Now I cut off the face and lining along the upper cut and along the vertical side of the center of the back. I stick the pins tangentially, capturing only the lining fabric, but not touching the stitched bones.

53. With such chipping, the pins from the side of the lining are not visible.

54. I replace the foot of the sewing machine with a one-sided one with the right ski track. I stitch from the side of the lining along the bones. Due to the fact that the bones were attached at a distance of 1 mm from the ruler line, now the needle hits exactly the control line.
I sew each seam from the edge of the product to the other edge. It is absolutely impossible to turn on the needle! When turning on the needle, the shape is bent and the sides will not be symmetrical.

55. I do the bartacking of each seam at the intersection of the lines. Now you need to trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm around the entire perimeter: the middle of the back, the top of the corset. Moreover, cutting the allowances, I do not cut off the bartacks at the corners, because. they were inside. I cut off the corners to make it easier to turn out later.

56. I turn the product inside out and iron the neck, placing ironing devices.

57. Then I straighten and iron the upper cut of the corset and the place of lacing on the back.

58. I lay machine stitches along the bones at the place of lacing, connecting the lining with the face.

59. We got drawstrings for spiral or plastic bones.

60. I use these plastic dice. You can instead of them spiral metal bones.

61. Inserting plastic bones into drawstrings. Regiline under each bone, in each relief. Two parallel bones can be pushed into the side seam. I limit myself to one.

62. I chip off half a treasure and a face along the bottom of the corset.

63. I am laying a machine line at a distance of the width of the foot from the stitched horizontal bone along the bottom.

64. I take an oblique trim 2 cm wide. I leave the tip 2-3 cm and attach it to the bottom of the corset from the side of the face. I apply the tape so as to overlap the connecting line by 1 mm. this way the machine stitch on the tape runs exactly along the connecting seam. If you look from the inside, the lines match.

65. I bend the ribbon to the inside of the corset, cleave it with pins and sew it on with hand blind stitches. After that, you need to iron the bottom of the corset.

66. If you do not want the plastic or spiral bone to run all over the chest relief, make bartacks under the bust. This bartack will limit the drawstring along the relief.

67. I sewed a tongue, which I will fit in the middle of the back under the lacing.

68. I pierced the eyelets at the place of lacing. The optimal distance between the eyelets is 3-4.5 cm. The diameter of the eyelets is 0.5 cm.

69. The corset is ready!

To begin with, I would like to make a reservation - today we will not talk about a corset, in its classical sense, but about a lightweight, so to speak, corset - about corsage. The thing is that the corset, in the modern world, does not have the same wide popularity as before. A corset is a product that models a figure, it consists of many parts, is made on special equipment, using special corset fittings (usually these are metal bones, busks, plates for eyelets, has lacing, with the help of which the pulling process takes place), which makes the manufacturing process in the conditions of non-professional workshops is almost impossible. Pulling at the waist, in a corset. it can be very large - 10-20 cm, which, of course, cannot be achieved in corsages. It is difficult to use a classic corset in everyday life, so let's turn our attention to a corsage that meets all aesthetic requirements and, moreover, is more comfortable. The differences between a corset and a bodice are now clear. But!, in ordinary life, everyone calls a corset a corset, it just so happened in an unprofessional environment, so we decided to call our lesson corset pattern, to make it easier for the reader to find this material. If you want to delve into the topic of corsets, perhaps we will create another lesson where we will talk about the history of the corset and give construction options,this is a really interesting topic! So, let's begin.

The construction of the corset (corsage) pattern will be based on the adjacent product. A corset (corsage) implies a strong fit, and in some cases a tightening, so we will set the increments to the girths to the minimum (negative values ​​​​of the increments are also possible). Negative increments are used mainly to the waist circumference and the third chest circumference (because it is in these places that the figure can be pulled a little without creating much discomfort). Measurements from the figure should be taken with a tight-fitting measuring tape, not tightening, but not too loose. It is required to take a measurement of chest girth on linen, the height of the chest and the volume in the finished product depend on this.

OT gain = 0 to -2

Exhaust gas boost = 2 to 0

OT gain = -3 to -6

Exhaust Boost = -1 to -3

Remember that the Increments are set to half measurements, because the construction takes place on half the figure and cutting is also meant on a double-folded fabric.

Corset pattern.

Drawing grid.

Let's determine the length of the base pattern, by the way, you can use it to create a tight-fitting dress or, for example, a bottom cover for a dress (combination). We put this value vertically, from top to bottom - AN, placing the segment at the left edge of the graph paper (For example: AN \u003d 110).

Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.

From point A to the right, we smooth out the size of the half-girth of the chest with an increase in freedom (For example: AB \u003d POG + Pr \u003d 48 + 2 \u003d 50 cm.). Set point B.

Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and set the point H1.

From point A, lay down the segment AT, the length of which is equal to the length of the back to the waist plus an increase (For example: AT \u003d Dts + Pr \u003d 38 + 0.5 \u003d 38.5 cm) and set the point T.

From T to the right we draw a line to the segment BH1, at the intersection we put point T1. The segment TT1 is the level of the waist.

Then, from T down, set aside the height of the hip line. The value of this segment is equal to half the length of the back (For example: TB \u003d ½ * DTS \u003d ½ * 38 \u003d 19 cm). Set point B.

From B to the right we draw the line of the hips, the intersection with the segment BH1 is denoted by B1.

The construction of the neck of the back.

Initially, from point A to the right, along the segment AB, we set aside the width of the back plus the increase (For example, AA1 \u003d ShS + Pr \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm). Set point A1.

From point A1 to the right, we set aside the segment A1A2 equal to 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest (For example: A1A2 \u003d 1/4 * POG \u003d 1/4 * 48 \u003d 12.0). Set point A2.

Now from A1 and A2 down we draw lines of arbitrary length. Segments A1 and A2 - are the boundaries of the width of the armhole.

Then, from point A to the right, we set aside the segment AA3 equal to 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus an increase (For example, AA3 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + Pr \u003d 1/3 * 18 + 0.5 \u003d 6.5 cm). Set point A3. AA3 indicates the width of the neck on the back.

From point A3 upwards, we draw a segment A3A4 equal to 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck, plus an increase. (For example, A3A4 \u003d 1/10 * POSH + Pr \u003d 1/10 * 18 + 0.8 \u003d 2.6 cm). We put point A4. A3A4 - the height of the neck of the back.

In order to beautifully draw a neck line, we should divide the angle AA3A4 at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, we set aside the value of the auxiliary segment A3A5 (For example, A3A5 \u003d 1/10 * 1POSH - 0.3 \u003d 1/10 * 18-0.3 \u003d 1.5 cm) and set point A5. The points A4, A5 and A obtained as a result of the construction are connected by a smooth curve - this is the neck line of the back!

Construction of the shoulder section of the back.

Initially, from A1 we lay down the segment A1P and set the point P. (The value of the segment A1P depends on the shape of the shoulders - for normal A1P \u003d 2.5 cm, for sloping A1P \u003d 3.5 cm, for high A1P \u003d 1.5 cm).

We connect points A4 and P with a straight line. Then, from A4, we set aside the segment A4P1 equal to the length of the shoulder plus an increase equal to the size of the tuck solution (For example, A4P1 \u003d Dp + 2 \u003d 13.5 + 2 \u003d 15.5 cm) and set the point P1.

On the resulting line A4P1 from A4, set aside 4 cm to the right and set point O. It is from point O that we will build a shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades.

From O we lay off 8 cm vertically down - we get point O1. Then, also from point O, we put aside 2 cm to the right - we set point O2. Connect O1 and O2 with a straight line.

The segments ОО1 and О1О2 are the sides of the tuck, but we need to equalize them. To do this, from the point O1 through the point O2, draw a segment O1O3 \u003d OO1 and set the point O3. Then we connect the points O3 and P1.A4O + O3P1 - the length of the shoulder.

Now let's define the level of the chest line. To do this, from the point P down we put off the segment PG \u003d 1/4 * Pog + Z. (We choose the Z coefficient depending on the posture: 7 cm for a normal figure, 7.5 cm for a stooped figure, 6.5 cm for a kinky figure). (For example, PG \u003d 1/4 * 48 + 7 \u003d 19 cm).

Through point G to the left and right we draw a horizontal line - it determines the level of the chest and the lower level of the armhole. The point of intersection with the line AN is denoted by G1, with the armhole width line - G2, with the line BH1 - G3.

From the point G upwards, set aside the value of the rear angle of the armhole, equal to GP2 = 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm, and put P2 (For example, GP2 = 1/3 * 19 + 2 = 8.3 cm).

Divide the angle at point G in half and draw a segment GP3 ​​equal to 1/10 of the width of the armhole + 1.5 cm and set point P3. These manipulations will help us beautifully draw the armhole line. (Armhole width = the size of the segment A1A2). (For example, GP3=1/10*12.0+1.5=2.7 cm).

Divide the GG2 line in half and put the point G4. By connecting the points P1, P2, P3 and G4, we get the armhole line of the back!

We proceed to the construction of the armhole line of the shelf.

From the point G2 upwards, we postpone the segment G2P4 \u003d 1/4 * Pog + W. (We also choose the W coefficient depending on the type of posture: 5 cm for normal; 4.5 cm for stooped; 5.5 cm for kinky). (For example: G2P4=1/4*48+5=17 cm). We put the point P4.

From the point P4 to the left, set aside P4P5 \u003d 1/10 * POG and set the point P5. (For example: 1/10 * 48 \u003d 4.8 cm).

From the point G2 upwards, we draw the segment G2P6 equal to 1/3 of the value of G2P4 and set P6. (D2P6=1/3*17=5.7 cm).

And now let's perform a few auxiliary constructions to draw a beautiful armhole. Points P5 and P6 will be connected by a straight line and divided in half.

Then to this line to the right, at a right angle, set aside 1 cm. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and draw a segment G2P7 equal to 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm(For example: G2P7 \u003d 1/10 * 12.0 + 0.8 \u003d 2.0 cm). We put the point P7. P5,1,P6,P7,G4 we connect with a smooth curve - the line of the armhole in front.

The construction of the neck of the shelf.

From the point G3 upwards, we set aside the value G3V1 \u003d 1/2 * POG + R. (We select the R coefficient depending on the posture: 1.5 cm for normal and kinky; 1 cm for stooped). (For example, 1/2 * 48 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). And then we put point B1.

From the point G2 upwards, set aside a value equal to G3V1 and set the point B2. Then we connect B1 and B2.

From point B1 to the left, set aside B1B3 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 0.5 cm and set point B3. B1B3 - neck width. (For example: 1/3*18+0.5=6.5cm).

From B1 we lay down the segment B1B4 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 2cm and put the point B4 (For example, 18:3 + 2 \u003d 8cm). We connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. В1В4 - neck depth.

From point B1 through the division point we draw a line on which we set aside the segment B1B5 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 1cm and set point B5. (For example 18:3+1=7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 with a smooth line and get the neck of the shelf.

Construction of a tuck.

From the point G3 to the left we postpone the segment G3G6, which is equal to the position of the center of the chest. We denote it by the point G6.

From G6 we draw a perpendicular line up to the intersection with the line B1B2. At the intersection we put point B6. From V6 downwards we postpone V6G7 \u003d VG and set the point G7.

Then, in the same way, from point B6 down, set aside 1 cm and set point B7. Then, points B7 and P5 are connected by an auxiliary segment.

Along the line P5 V7 from the point P5 to the right, we lay off the segment P5V8 equal to the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment V3V7 and minus 0.3 cm (For example, V3V7 \u003d Dp-V3V7-0.3 \u003d 13.5-3-0.5 \u003d 10.2 cm) . We put point B8.

From point G7 through point B8 we draw a segment G7V9 along the length equal to segment G7V7. The resulting point is denoted B9.

We connect points B9 and P5. G7V9 and G7V6 - sides of the tuck, P5V9 + V7V3 - shoulder length.

Side seam back.

Continue the line A1D down, perpendicular to the lines of the waist and hips, until the intersection with BB1. At the intersection, points T2 and B2 are formed.

Back retraction.

Set aside 1.5 cm from the T point to the right and put the To point. Connect points A To B in series. From point To to the right at a right angle to line A To, we draw a line until it intersects with the straight line GT2, we get point T21.

Side seam of the shelf.

Point G6 lies on the line GG2, from G2 to the left at a distance of 1/3 of the width of the armhole (G6G2=1/3 GG2=1/3*12=4cm) From this point we lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the line BB1. Points T3 B3 are formed. From the point T3 up the distance is equal to T2T21, set the point ku T31. We connect points T21 and T31 with a straight line, slightly extending it to the right, by about 2 cm.

Calculation of the depths of darts at the waist.

The sum of all waist darts (denoted by V) is equal to Width of the grid of the drawing minus the value of the tap, minus OT (half circumference of the waist) and minus the value of the corsage tightening, if a slimming corsage is planned. V \u003d (AB-1.5 cm) -OT \u003d (50-1.5 cm) -37.8 cm \u003d 10.7 cm is the total amount of all solutions, which must be distributed over the sections of all waist darts.

on the back - 2.7 cm

on the shelf - 2.5 cm

side seam 3 cm

lateral vyt. on the shelf 2.5 cm.

Locations of darts at the waist.

Back tuck. Divide G1G in half and from this point lower the perpendicular line down to the intersection with BB2. This is the center line of the tuck on the back. At the intersection with the waist line, it forms a point T21.

Shelf tuck. From the point G7, lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with B3B1. This is the center line of the tuck on the shelf. At the intersection with the waist line, it forms a point T31.

Side tuck on the shelf located on the G6B3 axis

Tuck in side seam- on the GB2 axis.

We form darts.

First, we need to determine the degree of fit of the pattern on the hips. Vbed. \u003d (OB + 1.0 cm) -BB1 \u003d (51 + 1) -50 \u003d 2 cm. Now 2/4 \u003d 0.5 cm. We put this value on the straight line BB1, on both sides of the points B2 and B3. We put points B21, B22, B31, B32.

On both sides of the point T22, we set aside segments equal to 1/2 * 2.7 cm = 1.35 cm. Further, from the point dividing G1G in half, down through the points of these segments located at a distance of 1.35 cm from the center line of the tuck, lower two lines connecting at a point on the center line located at a distance from the line BB2 4 cm up.

Dart on axial GB2. From point T21 on both sides ½ * 3 cm = 1.5 cm. The lower end of the left side of the tuck ends at point B22, the right end at point B21.

Side tuck on the shelf. From point T31 on both sides ½ * 2.5 cm = 1.25 cm. The lower end of the left side of the tuck lies at point B32, the lower right end at point B31. Dart on the shelf From point T32 on both sides ½*2.5cm=1.25cm. The right (closest to the middle of the front) of the newly formed points will be denoted by T32a. The lower end of the tuck does not reach the BB1 ​​line by 4 cm. The upper end of the tuck does not reach the center of the chest by 4 cm.

If Vbed.= zero, then nothing needs to be done.

If Vbad. = negative number, then pay attention to the design of the details at the level of the hips, they should be narrowed.

The design of the upper and lower lines of the corsage.

The top line of the bodice. On the midline of the back at a distance of 18 cm from the waist line (TT1), we put a point, from which we draw a smooth line to a point lying on the side of the chest tuck at a distance of 10 cm from point G7 - point P61. The line connecting these points is a smooth curve with a deflection at point P7.

In the chest area, the upper section of the bodice is limited by a straight line running from the point of the chest tuck lying on the side at a distance of 10 cm from the G7 point - a new point G61, to a point on the mid-front line upwards from the G3 point by 2 cm.

Decoration of the central part of the corset.

From point T32a, draw a straight line through point G7, until it intersects with an arc drawn from point G7, radius G7G61.

Measure the distance from point D61 to point P61 + 1.5 cm (this increase in the opening will help to avoid the top of the corset lagging behind the figure) and set it aside in an arc to the left of the point formed at the intersection of the arc with the straight line T32aG7. Draw a straight line from point G7 until it intersects with an arc at a newly formed point.

Reshape the upper cut of the corsage, taking into account the newly built tuck.

Making the bottom cut of the corsage passes through a point lying on the line of the middle cut of the back, at a distance equal to 10 cm from the point T0 down. To a point on the side seam of the back 10 cm from the waist down. And further, from a point symmetrical to it on the side seam of the shelf to a point on the right side of the side tuck of the shelf, lying on a straight line from point T31 down, then continue building from a point symmetrical to it on the left side of the tuck, then to the beginning of the waist tuck on the shelf and further to mid front at a right angle. The line of the lower cut of the bodice is a slightly convex curve passing at right angles at the junction.

We will correct the configuration of the relief part of the corsage in the chest area with smooth lines, in accordance with the natural curves of the body. On the left side of the newly formed, translated, chest tuck, a slightly convex curve, repeating the roundness of the chest, through the point G7, then down to the point formed by the solution of the tuck at the waist, along its left side, slightly bending the curve under the chest, for a better fit to the figure . Further down to the bottom cut of the corsage. All lines of corsage details should also be smooth.

The pattern-base of the corsage is ready.

Its construction on the basis of an adjacent silhouette by individual measurements guarantees you the best fit, unlike other methods, because. takes into account all the nuances of the figure. Having it at hand, you will always be able to model a variety of models of corsages, changing the location and slope of the reliefs, the configuration of the top and bottom lines. Leaving unchanged such important components as tuck solutions, the position of the point of the center of the chest, the total volume of the corset.

A corset is a unique piece of clothing that can emphasize your figure by visually reducing your waist and expressing your chest, and at the same time it is often used as part of a dress for evening and festive attire. However, their choice on the store shelves is not encouraging - it is very difficult to choose the right color and style, so one of the best options in this situation is to sew a corset with your own hands.

We sew a corset with our own hands

So, having decided to sew a corset with our own hands, we will prepare the materials:

• outer fabric - we choose to your taste, however, we take into account some subtleties: the fabric must be natural, otherwise it will be very hot in the corset, and at the same time it should not be too thin, otherwise the bones of the bodice will not tear; we opted for raw silk;
• lining fabric - we chose coatil, which is often used for corsets, but any durable natural non-stretch fabric will do;
• spiral bones, for our corset it took 20 pieces;
• binding tissue;
• eyelets;
• lacing.

Now let's prepare the tools for work:

• tool for embedding rivets;
• sewing machine with a set of needles;
• rotary knife and bedding for it;
• hole puncher for fabric or leather.

Now you can get to work.

Sewing a corset with your own hands

1. First of all, we decide on the type of corset and its shape - whether it will be a corset for the chest or a corset-belt, how much it should be pulled, what the shape of the neckline should be. We settled on a regular corset and bust with a bodice-shaped top. Cut out templates from paper.
2. Now let's take a look at the bones. As you know, they also come in several types: spiral and steel, both of them are suitable for our corset, this is a matter of taste. We take the length 2 cm shorter than the seams of the corset, otherwise it can tear very quickly.
3. Let's get to work on the fabric. Cut the fabric according to the patterns with a 1 cm allowance for the seams.
4. The last step is to cut out two patches of binding fabric for the back part for lacing, then iron all the elements.
5. Now we sew the elements from the outer fabric.
6. Then we do the same with the elements of the lining material.
7. After sewing all the elements, carefully iron all the seams from the wrong side. On the bends under the chest with scissors, we will make light cuts.
8. Next, we connect the outer fabric with the lining. Lay the lining and facing fabrics side by side so that they are in contact with the right sides, and sew them along the back allowance. Turn them over and iron them again.
9. Now we will finally start sewing tubules for bones. Let's carefully prepare the sewing machine for work. In order for the corset to keep its shape well, we will insert the bones on both sides of each seam and one along the back on both sides. For each seam line, we bait the fabric by connecting the seams of the outer and inner sides. We perform the seams very carefully, making sure that they are lined up as evenly as possible in relation to each other.
10. Now we will sew the outer side of each tubule. We make the width of the tubule 1 cm with a bone diameter of 0.5 cm.
11. Carefully cut the edges, threads, if necessary, correct the shape, correct errors.
12. Next, we decide on the lining or edging of the product. We will give the corset an even smooth shape.
13. For the upper edging, we put a part of the lining fabric on the table, straighten the corset as evenly as possible. Cut the fabric along the upper edge of the corset, then remove the corset and cut off a strip about 4 cm wide.
14. We'll do the same for the bottom border.
15. Now we sew the upper edging strips on the front side.
16. Turn the border inside out and iron it.
17. Now we insert bones between the two layers of the upper and lining fabric.
18. Then we will deal with the bottom edging. We perform it in the same way as the upper one, the only caveat is that we make sure that the bones are located above the seam, otherwise we will break the needle.
19. Now with a rough seam from the inside, sew the upper and lower edging.
20. Next, we outline the places for inserting the eyelets. They should be spaced approximately 2 cm apart.
21. Cut or punch holes.
22. Now we insert the eyelets, making sure that they are fixed well enough.

At this stage, the corset is ready. Here's what we got.

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How to sew a corset with your own hands - from pattern to tailoring

Of course, the corset is the main part of the wedding dress. It still remains stylish and indispensable for emphasizing the beauty of the bride's figure. It can be decorated with embroidery, rhinestones, pearls, feathers, bows, which will make the dress more original and special. That is why, when sewing a wedding dress, one of the key points is how to sew a corset with your own hands. This, of course, is not an easy task that requires thorough preparation.

When modeling an outfit, consider such nuances as the purpose of the corsage, material, type of figure. Also note that the basic patterns of the corsage are equally suitable for an evening dress, wedding or casual. It all depends on the decor and fabric.

Consider the main types of corset.

This type is intended for girls with a figure that does not require adjustment. Often it is also called a corsage. Therefore, such a corset is classified as ordinary clothing. Perfect for brides with a perfect figure and pregnant women.

Designed for body shaping (changing the shape): lifting the chest, shaping the waist line, supporting the back. With such a corset, the bride is more graceful and graceful.

For sewing, they mainly use dense fabric (can be cotton) for lining, then the upper fabric (main) is sewn from the same fabric or from any one you like, for example, satin, guipure, lace. The advantage of the density of the fabric is that it will not give the product a wrinkled look and unnecessary folds. If the corset is decorative, you can use silk.

The fittings include the following corset fasteners:

• locks;
• eyelets;
• ties for lacing;
• hooks;
• buttons;
• whalebone for a slimming corset;
• spiral bones for curved seams;
• steel bones for straight seams. It is better not to take cheap plastic bones, as they bend and twist.

Lacing is done either in front or behind, or both at once. For slimming corsets, it is good because you can adjust the tightening force, adjusting the corset to the desired size, regardless of whether you get better over time or lose weight. The main thing is to know the measure and not to overdo it in tightening the corset.

It is better to buy bones already having a pattern on hand and, of course, knowing the length of the corset. Self-reduction of the bone can bring some trouble. Please note that the bone should be 2 cm shorter than the seam of the corset, so it will not be noticeable and will not tear the fabric.

You will also need these tools:

• ruler;
• fabric hole punch;
• disappearing marker for pattern modeling;
• strips of cellophane;
• scissors;
• hammer for fastening eyelets;
• sewing machine;
• rotary knife;

Having decided on the style, the purpose of the corset (slimming, decorative), its appearance (modern, retro or even business style), the shape of the neckline, length, etc., try to sew it from cheap fabric as a mockup.

The advantage of the template is that it can be adjusted at different stages of sewing. With a clean version, this will be more difficult to do. Also keep in mind that sewing a corset takes quite a lot of time and it is the draft version that will reduce it, especially if you are sewing it for the first time.

Whatever pattern of a corset, dress, skirt or other type of clothing you would choose, it should match the type of your figure and fit only your body size. This is the main rule.

To take measurements, measure:

• chest girth;
• waist circumference (in the place where you want to make it);
• hip circumference (along the line of protruding bones);
• also measure the distances: waist line - a point under the chest, waist line - bottom along the side seam, waist line - lower abdomen.

There are 2 ways to build a pattern:

• Estimated– taking the necessary measurements depending on the chosen model and building a pattern.
• Fake or tattoo method- the method does not take so much time (10-20 minutes depending on the complexity of the model), but accurate, taking into account the features of the figure. In this case, the material is pierced directly on the figure of a person or on a mannequin.

Building a pattern in a dummy way

Now the tattoo method is gaining popularity. Let's stop on it.

To make a pattern, prepare a mannequin, a disappearing felt-tip pen and strips of cellophane 20 cm wide and 40-45 cm long. The number of strips depends on the planned number of parts.

1. We draw a corset. Tie the shoelaces on the mannequin (you can use rubber bands) horizontally along the chest line, under the chest and at the waist, as well as on the stomach (12-13 cm from the waistline).
2. Draw lines along the knotted laces with an eraser, then peel them off.
3. Mark the side seams and the center front and back.
4. Mark the relief seams of the corset.
5. Take a cellophane strip and attach it to the center of the front of the mannequin. Transfer the lines of the first part (from the fold to the relief) with a pen.
6. Attach and translate the side piece and back pieces.
7. Remove the parts and check them for evenness of the relief line.
8. Add seam allowances.

You will approximately get such a pattern.

The traditional method is calculated

Let's model a corset template.

1. Take a base pattern for a dress or build a rectangular grid and mark on it the line of the waist, chest and hips in accordance with your measurements, taking one of the patterns as an example. On the main pattern, transfer the lines and make relief cutouts. Make a pattern, while be sure to make seam allowances - 2-3 cm.

2. Transfer the pattern to the fabric of the corset template. Position the pattern so that the central cut of the back is parallel to the longitudinal thread, respectively, the points of alignment of the parts along the waist line are parallel to the weft thread. That is, the corset should not stretch along the waistline. Basically, the left side duplicates the right, so you can fold the fabric in two layers if the material of the lining and the main fabric is different, and immediately cut out a couple of details. If sewing from the same fabric, fold it in 4 layers, aligning the edges.

3. Cut out the fabric.

To make the fabric “sit down” better, soak it in warm water before sewing, after numbering the details.

1. Baste the central template parts of the front with the sides, as well as the central parts of the back with the sides from the lining. Stitch the shelves with the side details of the back. Try on the product and make the necessary adjustments.

2. Sew and iron all seams.

3. Do the same with the details from the main fabric. If there were changes in the lining, they are transferred to the base.

4. Connect the outer part to the lining.

5. Topstitch the drawstrings at the side seams and insert the bones into them. Their length should be 2 cm less than the seam. The bones should be located between the lining and the main fabric when sewing. Also note that the side seams of the two pieces (back and front) must match. You can make drawstrings on both sides of the seam.

6. Instead of drawstrings, you can sew rigilin. In this case, it is adjusted to the lining and to the base, and then the parts are connected. To do this, step back from the top of the side seam by 2 cm and secure it with two lines. The ends of the regilin should be wrapped with masking tape. Be sure to do the top and bottom bartacks.

If you opted for lacing, make markings for eyelets on the shelves. Make holes for them with a punch and make sure they hold tight.

• cut a long strip from the fabric, depending on the density of the loops on the shelf of the corset;
• from the wrong side, stitch it to the desired width;
• turn the strip inside out by hooking the pin over the edge;
• cut it into strips, for example, 7 cm long, consider the width of the ribbon or lace;
• overcast the edges of the segments so that the fabric does not crumble;
• make loops between the layers of corset fabrics on both shelves, adhering to the same width;
• stitch the loops and pull in the cord or ribbon. You can also sew a ribbon from the main fabric. To do this, you need to sew a long strip of the desired width, turn it inside out, straighten the stitched top edge and carefully sew up the bottom edge.

You can sew in a hidden zipper and hide behind a button closure.

It remains, if desired, to decorate the corset with lace, rhinestones, beads, bows.

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How to make a good posture correction corset at home on your own

Posture problems begin in childhood. The reason can be both the constantly hunched back of the child in the sitting position, and the genetic predisposition to the development of defects in the spinal column. However, the curvature of posture can occur in adulthood. Stoop during walking, excessive physical activity, sedentary work and other factors directly affect the change in the curvature of the spine.

Orthopedic corsets are used to correct defects. But they have a high cost, and not everyone can afford such an acquisition. Therefore, it is useful to know how to make a posture corrector with your own hands. Also, bandages sold in orthopedic salons or pharmacies are represented by standard models that may not suit the needs of a particular patient. In this case, the independent creation of a posture corrector is a priority.

The corrective posture corset is an orthopedic product made up of several elements that provide secure fixation. The materials from which bandages are made are most often durable elastic fabrics, specialized plastic, and various metals (in the case of correctors with increased rigidity). All materials must be hypoallergenic.

For each type of curvature of the spinal column, it is necessary to select an individual corset model that meets therapeutic criteria. One of the most important differences between posture correctors is the stiffness of the fixation. There are the following types.

1. Soft posture correctors. They are products made of elastic hypoallergenic fabrics. Wearing models of this type is most often prescribed by doctors for minor curvature of the spine. Also, their use is justified for the prevention of diseases of the musculoskeletal system and postural disorders.
2. Semi-rigid bandages. Products are equipped with fasteners and additional stiffening ribs made of plastic. Such modifications are necessary to provide additional support for more severe posture problems.
3. Rigid spinal corsets. They are equipped with stiffening ribs made of plastic or metal, adjustable straps and fasteners. They are used for the treatment of complex curvature of the spinal column, in the complex treatment of a number of severe pathologies of the musculoskeletal system.

Another important factor is the localization of the product on the body. According to this criterion, the following types of devices are distinguished:

There are magnetic reclinators and electronic posture correctors, however, such products cannot be made at home due to the complexity of the design.

What is needed for the correct manufacture of the product

In order to make a high-quality posture corrector with your own hands, you need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe final form of the device. You should visit an orthopedic salon and examine in detail the factory performance of corsets. So you will be sure of the style, the level of rigidity and the algorithm of actions when making the corrector yourself.

In order to create a corset, you must follow the rules:

• determine the localization of the curvature of the spine to create the desired product model;
• select hypoallergenic materials in the proper amount (it is advisable to take more than necessary);
• write down the measurements to create a product that provides reliable posture support;
• purchase and master a high-quality sewing machine;
• learn how to make professional paper patterns that take into account the structural features of the figure.

Ready-made patterns can be used for models of posture correctors in the future. Also, the above knowledge will help in creating spinal bandages for adults and orthopedic corsets for children.

The sequence of actions in the manufacture of a corset

To make a posture corrector, a person must have the skills of sewing and cutting. Properly drawn undercut drawings will ensure that the result obtained matches the desired one. You can use ready-made patterns from the Internet, but in this case it is impossible to make a bandage that meets all the requirements and requests.

To properly make a corset for correcting posture at home, you need the following.

1. Pick up materials. Fabrics should breathe, be elastic, wash well and not wrinkle when worn. Only hypoallergenic materials should be selected.
2. To determine the undercuts, it is necessary to take measurements of the chest, waist and hips.
3. Draw a pattern for the pattern.
4. Transfer it to the fabric, observing the scale.
5. Each element of the posture corrector must be carefully cut and ironed.
6. Fasten the parts of the corset with pins.
7. Use thin and strong threads to sew the components of the bandage together.
8. To fasten the elements, use a quality sewing machine.
9. After stitching the edges, the product must be tucked (preferably with an overlock).

Advantages and disadvantages

If you have skills in creating fabric products with your own hands, you can make a corrector that will be much better than factory models. The main advantages of such a corset are as follows.

1. Individual approach. When creating a posture brace, you can take into account every detail and make any adjustments to the product plan.
2. Price. Making a corrector will cost less than purchasing any of the existing models in a pharmacy or orthopedic salon. This is especially true for the price of an individual order.
3. Ability to create multiple modifications. Since you yourself are a corset tailoring studio, the number of created products can be unlimited.
4. Wardrobe expansion. This applies to design decisions in the design of the corset. You can create bandages in the classic colors of pharmacy elastic bandages, as well as in a variety of variations, which will allow you to combine the product with any clothing.

However, there are also disadvantages of such products.

1. Lack of certification. Handicrafts do not meet the standards of medical practice and cannot be used as therapeutic devices. Therefore, in the process of creating a corrector, you should consult with a specialist.
2. The impossibility of manufacturing without proper skills. If you do not have skills in sewing or cutting, then creating a posture corrector will not work.

Simple corrector made of elastic bandage

For those who do not know how to sew and cut, there is a simple instruction for quickly creating a posture corrector.

1. Take an elastic bandage 5-6 m long and 8 to 10 cm wide.
2. Attach the middle of the bandage to the level of the shoulder blades and throw one end over the shoulder, and the other under the opposite armpit.
3. Wrap your shoulders and underarms in a figure-of-eight several times.
4. Encircle the ends of the bandage around the waist and tie them on the stomach.

Such a bandage is suitable exclusively for the prevention of curvature of posture. For therapeutic purposes, its use is possible only on prescription.

A home-made posture corrector will not only save money, but also provide a comfortable and effective recovery. However, the creation of a high-quality corset is possible only if you have experience in sewing and cutting.

Women's corset is an amazing thing. It would seem that this is nothing more than underwear, however, in a modern interpretation, this piece of clothing becomes not just a stylish attire, but gives solemnity and pretentious pretentiousness to the image. Perhaps you, dear craftswomen, will be interested in how to sew a corset.

You will need:

• measuring tape;
• Paper for patterns;
• Scissors;
• Lacing.

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Secret of success

Why is this unpretentious product so popular? The thing is that in such a dress the figure becomes almost perfect, acquiring the shape of an hourglass. A skillfully cut corset is able to emphasize all the advantages and hide minor flaws. The lady dressed in it looks regal and, at the same time, unprotected and gentle.

Preparatory stage

• Get the material first. It is advisable to choose a dense fabric, it will not wrinkle and create folds.
• In order to sew a corset with your own hands, take measurements - the girth of the coarse, waist and hips.
• Now measure the height of the barrel - from the armpit to the waist, and also fix the desired length.

drawing lesson

• Start making a corset by drawing 3 lines - chest, waist and hips. Remember, between the first and second strip, you must maintain the distance of the sidewall.
• Let's call the parts of the template as follows: the first central, the second central; first side and second side.

• Do-it-yourself corset pattern will help you create a personalized product, taking into account your forms. So, line up the first piece of the pattern on it. The waist tuck solution in this case is 1 cm.
• Let's move on to the second part. Raise the center of the chest by 1 cm and shift it to the right by 0.7 cm. Draw a vertical strip through the obtained point, reducing the volume under the breast.
• To the line of the second relief, we shift the solution of the tuck along the waist of the main drawing by 2 cm.
• Building the outlines of the front section of the corset on the 1st side part, you will notice that the parts overlap each other.
• Extend the front 1 cm at the side near the armhole and also at the bottom. Draw a cut line.
• Now let's take the back. It should be narrowed by 1.5 cm at the side armhole, and then add 1 cm at the very bottom.
• Circle the resulting details and cut them out. The finished corset pattern should look like this.